Installing an Amplifier? Use these BEST PRACTICES for Power Wire!
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- When installing a car audio amplifier we need to connect a power lead from the front battery to the amplifiers. Sounds simple enough but we need to make sure we have a proper fuse, that are installation is correct and a few other things. What are the best practices for installing the power wire on a car audio amplifier? Let's discuss!
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Your wire Ferrell video changed the way I do installs! Actually alot of your videos helped me step up my game. Keep em coming Mark!
hammer crimps work just fine if you use them correctly. can't beat on em with a tack hammer and expect it to work. i use a 4 pound drilling hammer myself.
Still learning and educating myself, videos like these are legit. Bad habits are hard to break lol
dude I'm SOOO glad you showed the Knuconceptz battery terminal thing... Thats the sketchiest part of my whole install is how my wire mounts to the terminal, just kinda stuck on the OEM terminal tightening nut. Its a later model truck and has very vehicle specific harness components with almost no place to put a big power lug, and I dont wanna cut up the factory wire harness to do an install, I like keeping things as close to factory condition as possible. This is the perfect product for my install, literally gonna go buy one right now before I even finish watching your video, huge thanks for that tip man.
As a wire enthusiast I approve this message lol. Great video as always Mark
Hi Mark
Many thanks for your stellar efforts to produce quality information
After 20 yrs of being out of the audio world , ive got the bug again
Your videos have given me the best chance at great sound quality
Regards Ken
Australia 🇦🇺
KnuConcepts have lots of neat wiring accessories and definitely very good wire. Those wire glands are the right idea for the hostile environment of the engine bay. This gets hot and cold and let’s not forget wet. Wire doesn’t like heat or cold and wet not at all. I would only make one suggestion on the wiring and that is heat shrinking the connections this further reduces the chance of exposure to the elements and this added protection also safeguards your investment. It may sound extreme, but under the hood is where you need all the help you can get. Press on Mark. Another great video! Stay safe my mates!😊👍🏻😷
Definitely good to heat shrink those connections for sure, great addition!
@@CarAudioFabrication 3x shrink with the glue in it! Thing gets hard and tough to live in that environment
Do a video on how to eliminate engine noise in the audio 🔉 Thanks ❤️
Hey Mark! My latest video shows some of the motivation you've given me, and I used some CAF learned skills to complete that install. I'll be starting on another this week, and will post the results. You do some seriously clean work, inspiring me to take it to the next level. Even gave ya a shout-out man! Thanks again brochacho!
Hey man thanks for the amazing videos you upload, really helps us new beginners to understand and a proper way to install amplifiers and speakers❤
Great way to explain tips for beguines like myself. I always learn something new from your videos. Thanks!
I don’t say this enough but much appreciated on all your videos I’m wire stupid and these have all been very helpful
Great breakdown as usual. Thanks!
Very nice and very well explained being a installer for a shop I see alot of diy installs and have grabbed wires that was shorted to ground and got my hand burned 🔥 and have told people to put a fuse on there wire then the next time they came by had a different car because the old one burned 🔥
Excellent! I just bought the last battery terminals off amz in the UK. Thanks for the heads up!!
Even though running quality wiring (signal and power) I still add additional blockage between the 2 types of wiring. Normally I add at least electrical tape, wiring loom, more electrical tape and if in the engine bay fire tube or under the car at least cool tube. I start with the the cool or fire tube first followed by additional protection if needed. As for the signal wire- old school 400 series monster car audio wiring is what I usually use, as it has great internal connections and amazing external protection. As for type of power wire hifi Vega has a great guide of cost per amount of OFC copper per foot and other various specs. A great guide to follow.
Very informative as always 👍
More great information…got my knukoncepz wiring, battery terminals, and fuses for installation
This is a good guide for accessories in general, especially for Overlanders
Awesome tips and well explained. All points are very true, but I would like to add in a little something that is sometimes overlooked.
I work for a heavy truck dealership so i have experience on this point. At 3:05 those post adapters are a great idea, but installers need to know that the post adapter is to be tightened down. You can easily see that the post adapter had rotated a bit as the 10 mm cable clamp nut was being tightened down. One of the main causes of heavy trucks not starting is because the post adapter (installed in some applications) has worked loose, thus losing valuable amperage to start the truck. The same can apply to the automotive application as well.
I bought a wire ferrel set after watching your videos, excited to use them to clean up my next install...then I decided to use a kenwood amp. 😵💫
I prefer to use "firewall boots" instead of those plastic grommets. The issue I tend to run into with those plastic screw type grommets is they tend to be to bulky in some situations and the power wire will not be very flexible for the first couple inches on either side of the plastic grommet witch will cause the power wire to stick out pretty far and be hard to make a tight bend either inside the vehicle or under the hood. If there is plenty of room then it's not an issue to use those but with a firewall boot the thick power wire still remains somewhat flexible for better wire management.
nice I already have the knukoncepts battery blocks with the older terminal pieces definitely going to get the newer ones as it will work better with my OEM battery connectors and not bend the wires as much
On my current install, I used a Blue Sea Systems circuit breaker under the hood instead of a fuse. Protects the wire and super convenient to be able to cut the whole system off at the battery for service or if I hand it off to a shop and don’t want them abusing my equipment.
Just be careful, once a breaker is tripped there can be residue where it arcs making it harder to trip again so it won't always be reliable if it's blown more than once
Great video
This guy is awesome
thank u sir!
It's funny I have done a lot of electrical myself, ran a 2/0 gauge wire successfully in my car without issue or modification, and yet I still want to hear your expertise on how to do it better for next time.
If you use a hammer crimper properly you can get just as good of a connection. The idea is to strike the die several times until you hear it sound like you're hitting solid metal. Then you know all the strands of copper have been compressed together uniformly.
I’ve used the hammer crimper and like you, with a few practice mess ups, I’m pretty good at making a nice secure and good looking crimp and connection. The cost for a mechanical crimper is a bit too much for a regular DIYer.
Solder Dunk ftw. For me personally. Looks a lot cleaner not being smooshed/smashed, maintains its circular symmetry, Andddd the solder seeping into and between alllll the strands and fusing to the lug, seems like the MOST efficient way, IMO. (A buddy of mine dunks and crimps his. He says that way if there’s an extreme heat increase in transfer and wildly the solder let go, the crimp would be a viable secondary backup. If it Maths it Maths right? Lol.)
Maybe something to try on y’all’s next builds or upgrades etc. I always love finding little tips and tweaks and 1 offs, especially ones that make things look more aesthetically pleasing, but if you can do that and increase performance, etc. sign me up! Prime Example! The wife Ferrules!!! Oh my gawddd! Something so simple, yet a game changer. Throw a chunk of heat shrink on there to tie it in too... looks great, and is clutch when doing a lot of test fitting or just unplugging the speaker wires a bunch, it maintaining some consistency continually is so nice. Not getting frayed and mangled and shit. A+++ type shit. Keep on Build brotha’s!!
@@APinTheAK I work in a nuclear power plant surrounded by all kinds of electrical switchgear, MCC's and transformers of all different voltages and basically all of the cable connections use compression fittings (i.e. crimps). It's industry standard as a compression fitting provides mechanical strength and stability whereas soldering alone does not. That said, I have never tried soldering and crimping together, but the lugs I use don't really facilitate this.
Since there are relatively cheap thermal cameras available these days it would be interesting to see how the wire and terminals heat up during heavy use. Particularly the connections to e.g. amplifiers etc.
Usually, there will be an unused rubber plug on the firewall that you can cut a hole into it and route your power wire through that.
Great video!! What is the best wiring to use? Power RCA? Thanks
Can you do a vid on speakers blowing ? I installed aftermarket rear speakers & one blew.
I THINK it was because I noticed the positive speaker wire was plugged in the amp while the negative one slipped out the ferrule, but I’m still not sure how to diagnose that since my front speakers work fine
From a retired Mechanic point of view. You are very correct in putting the large fuse block withing inches of battery connections. I would then suggest putting a smaller fuse block at the amp to protect it. Some of the radio/amp wiring I had to pull out of a vehicle was way too large and created a whole new set of problems.
One fuse is fine a second fuse is just another point for voltage drop to become a problem
Hey guy! I drive an f350 with two batteries. Question is would I run two 0 gauge one from each battery or would you do one zero gauge to distribution block? Amps are 1500watt and 400 watt four channel. Thanks buddy
Here's my question. I have 1/0 ofc copper running from my engine battery to my extra trunk battery. From my trunk battery to my amps I had to use 4 ga. Wire to daisy chain my amps. Am I losing power when I went from 1/0 to 4 ga? Should I use 1/0 wire all the way around? Or will it matter that much?
Question: i know this was explained in the past were the system had a current draw 130 amps and you stepped down to 120 amps fuse. Question is how far can you step down? For example, if the current draw from the system is 140amps. Do you then step up to a 200amps or step down to 120amps? (Side note, im going according to knukonceptz 0 gauge single amp kit fuse options)
Hi, do you have any info or anything really to add subs to a 2021 volvo XC40? This car is a black hole when it comes to aftermarket audio. Any help would be great. Add an amp and a sub or 2.
do you have any recommendation for a hex crimper that's battery powered that is not crazy expensive? 8-00 ga preferably
Ah, the Ole 'Sandwich Fingers'..
That was my nickname in High School..
One more question. I have 2 Amps and a extra trunk battery. Both amps and my trunk battery are all grounded with one ground. Should I ground each amp and extra battery separately? Reason I'm asking is my interior speakers do not seem loud enough. And yes I've done the big 3 upgrade, upgraded alternator and upgraded both my batteries to 100AH batteries.
Mark, if I’m only doing this once, and don’t want to purchase a crimp tool, is it ok to solder the fitting onto to power wire?
What’s the idea if your running a second battery? I have 4g back to the the second battery in the trunk where the amps are, 4500w skar with 1g from the second battery to the amp about 2 foot long. This is both batteries positive and negative.
Hi! How can i add second battery and wich type of batteries is good to use for second amplifier?
What about the remote wire should you run that on the opposite side as well?? I would think yeah because basically it's kind of like a power wire right
Those hammer lug crimpers have actually been proven to be pretty great
Do I need a ferrel on the power wire to connect to the fuse? And can I use electrical tape to hold it? Or can I just strip the power wire and connect it that way to the fuse?
Is it not necessary to connect the wire so that the Amp turns on when the car or accessories are on, otherwise isn't the amp always drawing power from the battery? Apologies if this a rookie question, I'm new to adding wiring to a car.
What size or type of Fuse holder do I use in a planet audio ANARCHY MODEL 1500W High Output Monoblock Class A/B Amplifier Dim:10"L 10"W 2.4"H
Where can I get those fork connectors for a power wire ?
I just installed Dual Double din and everything was working. Until I ended up with a parasitic drain and cannot find what the issue is after a new battery also.
can i used 60 ampere of fuse for #10 wire? i only have 200watts of amplifier.
I will always use a cable gland, best option imo.
Agree
Do you not sell your speaker aiming tool anymore?
One thing to note the knukonceptz ultimate battery terminals come with the side post adapter… if you want the vertical post adapter those are separate on knukonceptz website for 10 bucks I used them about a week ago on the ultimate battery terminals on my big 3 upgrade and they worked perfectly for my car closing the hood was no problem as it only raised the factory connections by 3/4 of an inch
Wire gland nuts are the only way to pass thru sheet metal.
Hello I am just wondering and am curious because I am currently going through a situation with my car. To be specific a 2008 corvette . I’ve taken it to many places (including dealer) and even the dealer said they’d charge me over 1000$. My question is I had a power wire installed from my battery to my amplifier because my sound went out. Will my battery get drained over time or is there some type of way to bypass that. I think they also added a capicator and also fuse holder.
Thank you
Seems luke you need a bigger alternator
Whats your preferred RCAs?
i cant find the terminal with the vertical terminal post
I installed my 2 12”s with a 1500 watt planet audio amp and there is a whistling noise coming from my actual truck speakers and nothing coming from the subs at all, no output and the ground to the bottom bare metal part of my truck, and the power and fuse ran to my battery and my remote wire ran to my head unit and still nothing
What kind of rca are those
One thing i noticed and didnt really like about the knuconcepts battery terminals is that they arent mirrored whatsoever so you have to run one of the terminals 180° from the other to have it sit properly. Mentioned this to them and all i got back was 'oh well thats how theyre designed'... doesnt make much sense they arent mirrors imo
Put a wire loom around the wire that goes from the fuse to the battery terminal.
What’s an alternative way instead of buying that cremper
I really don't trust those screw clamp style fuses/blocks. I see they are probably the most popular design for the car audio electrical connections and must work alright, but I would much rather use cable lugs or ring terminals and bolt every connection. There is almost no chance that a bolt is going to come out and release the wire. It's good that you recommend the ferrules though, I think it makes the screw style connection much more robust.
Why can't I find that distribution block that shows up in the intro
7:34 also speaker cables?
Any promo codes that would be nice
Hello. You said to have the RCA cable on the opposite side of the vehicle. I was planning on running the RCA cable on the transmission tunnel and the power wire down the drivers door sill. That should be enough distance apart, right?
More than enough yes. Just be aware of any other potential noise inducing sources
It’s enough distance the rule is a minimum of 18” inches. But keep in mind you have a lot of electronics underneath the center console you can pick up a transmission humm. So if you feel that’s your best option wrap your rca cable in copper foil tape to reject noise or alternatively if your amp is a jl with differential balanced inputs you will be ok
That would suck to do all that work
And hear noise otherwise run your rca inside the door trim farthest away from the power wire and transmission
@@clydesharman2053 The other side door sill shouldn't be too difficult, I'll try from there. Thanks.
@@CarAudioFabrication Copy that. Ill try to keep it away from other wiring, etc. Thanks.
Thanks for asking that question. For me, I found it easier to run the RCA, remote turn on and signal wires straight from and to the amp in the trunk, up beside the transmission tunnel to behind the dashboard. That way it’s a lot neater and easier and shorter run.
@1:25 just don’t forget to drop the nut over the wire before you feed it through if you don’t have access to the other end of it.
Now that im seeing this (again, somehow), I have to wonder how "risky" it could be to have that "Positive" lug hanging off the side as shown in 1 of the options. (as convenient as some of the terminal options are)..🤔 Of course, maybe Im the only one who's had batteries held down by Bungees/straps/string/old condoms/tape/bandaids/etc.. 🤫
Ok, I'll say it. Anyone else notice how "Choaded Up" the Head of that Phillips screw was, for the Positive terminal demonstration? No idea why they'd make that a Phillips instead of an Allen.
Yes, It goes by fast, so you gotta be quick to pause it.
I don't think there are enough wire slots on that terminal adapter. I had the same issue looking for one recently. It would be fine if all you were adding was additional wiring, but none of them account for the stock wires.
That's why you keep the post with the post adapter and just reconnect there.
@@CarAudioFabrication Youre right. My fault, I wasnt paying close attention because I assumed it was like all the others I've seen. Thats a great design
Yeah don't spend nine dollars on a tool you'll only use a couple times. Buy the one that's at least fifty. You know. To protect your three hundred dollar setup.
😂 I’ve already got too many tools collecting dust. I’m going to take my power cable to a local shop and have them crimp it for me. A couple bucks under the table ought to make everyone happy.
The law in the UK is less then 25cm of cable from the battery for the fuse to protect the wire.
I run my power wire inside flexible aluminum or galvanized conduit through the frame and into the cab through the floor. Hardware we is available to secure the conduit to the cab. Under the hood I'll fasten a piece of angle aluminum to the frame with the correct size hole for the same hardware used to anchor the other end. And, of course, fuses at each end.
Fuses at each end? Why?
@@470ruger pay attention
To what? You're connecting amps aren't you? So why a fuse at each end unless it's a distribution block?
@A. Melbs your attention is paid huh? Does that mean I'm obligated to respond? Requiring an explanation is proof that your attention is, in fact, NOT paid. But I'm happy to help you out.
Amplifiers, head units, equalizers, DSPs and every other piece of electronic equipment in the car has at least one fuse right? Why? To protect that piece of equipment right? So a fuse serves two purposes, protects the wire and protects the equipment. Right? More fuses doesn't make a circuit weaker, it makes it safer. If the fuse under the hood is out of spec, allowing far more than rated amps, a second fuse in that circuit might just save the day and possibly your equipment, if it's the equipment drawing the excessive current. A fuse doesn't have any meaningful affect on current flow below its rating so a 2nd fuse in back hurts nothing. Also, the 2nd fuse makes it easy to disconnect power completely at the rear pulling one fuse, where I'm working, instead of under the hood. Out from that fuse into a fused distribution block then on to amps etc. I like it when things are easier rather than harder. I hope that cleared things up to your satisfaction. All the best.
if you go from a zero ga wire to a 4 ga 2 inches from the Amp are u losing the advantage of the zero ga wire? the world may never know
If you are short on wire why dont you put a fuse in between so you dont have to use the 4ga
I wish you wired my system! It’s a clean setup but ….there is definitely something wrong with the wiring
I wish u wired my system, it’s a clean setup but the wiring is definitely messed up sonewhere
Thank you Mr. Mark for what you are doing. I have a question... Can I use the Amplify Fire through the rear speakers in the back of the car without unplugging the radio in the car and connecting it through it? Please let me know, thank you
Ok so my amp wouldn't stop turning on...with the car off..head unit had been powered Down before killing ignition. Amp on..cycled the keys to get the darn thing to cut off. Few seconds and it cut back on ..I popped the hood, pulled the fuse OUT of the power wire. Cycled the keys( at this point the head unit will not come on "auto" as it was manually shut off prior...amp cuts on...yanked the 30a fuse out if the amp, cycled the keys...counted to- Holy **** wt*** amp came on...I let it kill my battery from 12.6 to 11, cycled my keys (hours and hours later at this point) amp did not cone back on lol. I checked for obvious loose connections and have simply concluded the ground is literally the only thing that could be backfeeding as the remote is on acc on head unit... zero clue on how to go about diode...or if thats even the answer.. dud I miss sonething obvious in my absolute frustration?? - oh too start I just finished a 16hr 101° Day under HOT Mack Trucks so I wasn't completely coherent as it was either lol
For the budget guy wrap the audio cables with aluminum foil
So weird seeing thick cable flopping around like it’s a rope
Ac is far more damaging than dc for signal interference.
That the positive ,the 'power" wire ? Ya sure ?
I know you are trying to raise some silly argument about which way the electrons flow. But it's irrelevant for the sake of this video.
@CarAudioFabrication you seemed to have it backwards
The huge pos cable is kind of a funny joke amongst auto techs
@CarAudioFabrication CURRENT, WHICH WAY CURRENT FLOWS ,it's a big deal in auto electrical ...I guess it's good you know the term electrons
Hahaha literally the only thing good about owning a bmw is the aftermarket audio power wire is a foot
MarKonceptz