Another great video Andy! Bill Maier sold me all my suspension pieces, 620lb coil springs, 200lb rear leaf springs and Koni Shocks for my 1965 Shelby Clone in 1981, I drove up to his location in Hayward on a Saturday, his two sons were playing outside on the driveway of his shop, Mike was one of them. In 1983 Supershops Automotive Performance Centers started carrying Koni Shocks, due to my suggestions to upper management, I ended up becoming the top Koni salesman in the company and won a trip for two to Oahu, Hawaii. Bill became one of my best Koni Shock customers and bought them often from me.
These are very nice! Thank you again for getting better and better with the video quality and showing us all the awesome things we can do to our Mustangs!
We're getting a tiny bit better each new part. But, there's more to do. The hard part is noticing the difference as this car drives so much better than it did when I bought it. :)
Andy , The shims can be wired together or taped, put the bolts through the holes start the nuts and after you get them screwed on you can adjust the gap from the U/C to the holes , so the shims stay in place, The less shims the smaller the gap . Makes the shims a lot easier to deal with
Yeah, I wasn't really worried about it with this install because I plan to get the alignment done and then they'd be all good. But thanks for the heads up. :)
Mike and his brother now have two separate business, Mike's shop is now in Livermoore, I think his brother took over his dads shop after his father passed.
Hi Andy, probably should even up the shim stacks. The reason the front stack is bigger is because that's how you're getting your positive caster but your caster is now positive via the setback ball joint in the arm. You will have so much positive caster now your steering will be excessively heavy.
Nice mod, good looking parts. I keep mine as is......with this old man driver good enough!!!! BTW my hood rubber snubs were awful...never noticed...ordered a set....put them on SAT. Thx
Yeah, those kinds of shots are cool, but it really won't capture how the car handles or how the driver can gain confidence while driving. The work that the coilover is putting in would do more for a shot like that than the upper control arm, since it essentially moves in the same manor as the previous arm. :)
Once Alain thanks for youre videoes, they are a grelt inspiration, and a quality upgrade. im shure that youre car must be handeling fantastic With all the upgrades you have done 🎉
Great video. it looks like the upper control arm is more pointed. With 14 inch magnums, 225/60R14 there is probably no need for a spacer now due of rubbing the tire.
The shims are in the front, which pushes the control arm towards the back of the car, creating caster. However, I need to get an alignment because those specific stack of shims are not what this car needs right now.
The amount of shims you had looked very similar to my 66! 5 in the front and 1 in the back. Figured someone might have been drunk putting my front end together
Great vid as always. I like some of the improvements in these A-arms but as someone who isn't quite ready to Shelby drop the car (already sits pretty low; don't want to lose more ground clearance!) I wonder if these would work OK with the stock A-arm mount position.
Since the new arms have caster built in you should not need all the original shims. Also I noticed you are using some small shims, try to find the big oem Ford style ones. You'll get less cracking of the shock tower.
People don't have to do the Shelby drop, but if someone was interested in the improvements these control arms offer, it doesn't make sense why they'd pass on the Shelby drop. :)
@johnwesleycollins...If you want to avoid drilling holes, I believe that Global West has a similar upper control arm with the Shelby Drop built into the pivot shaft
Great vid,Andy! And informative and inspiring! Not to get off the subject of your video, I got really piqued by your Monte Carlo bar installation. The passenger side has what appears to be a large heim joint or ? compared to the driver side. I have a straight bar I want to install on my '68. It's the kind of bar that bolts to the inner fender panels. I do not like this. The bar should be installed on the beefy shock tower metal (IMHO) like the Trans Am cars. I was wondering if you could do a vid on your installation of your bar. In particular, any welded in brackets you made to accept the bar ends. That car of yours is gorgeous! I've always thought the '65 -'66 f/b's looked "sleeker" than the newer classics 'Stang f/b's.
I have a video on my channel of the Monte Carlo Bar I sell, the current version with the rod ends (heim joints). I put this video on my channel in March 2023, called "New Monte Carlo Bar Design!" I also have a link to that video on my website where I sell the bar. :)
I don't believe so, I need those shims to I don't have too much negative camber. However, I don't know how much shimming is needed at the moment, so I need to get an alignment done STAT! :)
Great video. I thought I was ready to move forward with SoT or OT UCA's, but now you've got me thinking! I notice you are using the holes you did for the Shelby drop to mount this. However, on the Maier website, it says "We also set the shaft up to use swappable alignment keys, letting you easily dial in exactly where you want the shaft to sit without having to drill additional holes (as you would for the Shelby drop)." So I'm a bit confused, doesn't this mean you should use the stock holes and use the swappable alignment keys instead of having to do a Shelby drop? Another great video--my 3yo and I love watching when you have new ones.
It is recommended that people do the Shelby drop for this Upper Control Arm, but Mike Maier also recognizes that not everyone wants to drill holes in their car. Because of that, people can choose to utilize that key to aid in the mounting location of that UCA, without the need for the Drop. However, if someone is electing to upgrade their UCAs to something like this, it would make sense they're trying to improve the handling of their car and the Shelby Drop helps with that in ways that the UCA can't contribute. So it's win-win to do the Drop and install these UCAs from Mike Maier. :)
Question Andy: Minute 8:06 - You state that damage may occur, this damage is to the ball joint not the upper control arm. Is that correct? I ask because I intend to reuse my upper control arm.
Correct, using the pickle-fork will likely chew up the stud and/or the ball joint boot during removal. But that's ok, because those parts won't be used anymore. Also, using the pickle-fork is the preferred method, partially because it will not damage the spindle assembly. That's why I said to not use the hammer straight onto the spindle. In an extreme scenario, using the hammer straight on the spindle could crack it. No bueno. :)
my 289 is stock I want to put an intake and a 4-barrel carb I plan to upgrade the ignition and headers later and that's all, the motor will be stock for the rest. I will be only using it for cruising, what intake and ignition do you recommend. also, carb. O yea I have followed you for years love you videos , I did the same front sway bar you used on your car, I plan down the road to put the sway bar on the back, the front bar makes my car handle a lot better, I put 4-wheel disc brake on it last week, Thanks Andy
For your build, I recommend the Edelbrock Performer 289, part number 2121. You can save a few bucks buying a used unit, it all works the same. For ignition, I recommend the Pertronix 1281. It might be a good idea to pair that with their Blaster Coil, part number 40011. For the rear sway bar, you could install the same Helwig unit that I put on my last car, but I recommend finding room in the budget for a Panhard Bar in place of the rear sway bar. If you go down that path, either buy the unit that Maier Racing sells, or get the one that Mike Maier sells (they're brothers, either bar is perfect for your car). :)
The Granada (if I remember) are the same ball joint.. it’s the Lincoln Versailles that had the odd ones. But BOTH have different spinal location / geometry.. I would check with the Maier.. see what they say
Another great video Andy! Bill Maier sold me all my suspension pieces, 620lb coil springs, 200lb rear leaf springs and Koni Shocks for my 1965 Shelby Clone in 1981, I drove up to his location in Hayward on a Saturday, his two sons were playing outside on the driveway of his shop, Mike was one of them. In 1983 Supershops Automotive Performance Centers started carrying Koni Shocks, due to my suggestions to upper management, I ended up becoming the top Koni salesman in the company and won a trip for two to Oahu, Hawaii. Bill became one of my best Koni Shock customers and bought them often from me.
Yeah, it's a crazy small world some times. :)
These are very nice! Thank you again for getting better and better with the video quality and showing us all the awesome things we can do to our Mustangs!
Thanks! We all know who's videos we were watching first, I a bunch of your stuff when I was trying to dial in my first Mustang. :)
Great install video, glad they worked out with your QA1’s.
Thanks 👍
Cars coming together really well! Must be a blast to drive with all these mods.
We're getting a tiny bit better each new part. But, there's more to do. The hard part is noticing the difference as this car drives so much better than it did when I bought it. :)
Very nice explanation of how it should benefit your new old ride!
Thanks!
Andy , The shims can be wired together or taped, put the bolts through the holes start the nuts and after you get them screwed on you can adjust the gap from the U/C to the holes , so the shims stay in place, The less shims the smaller the gap . Makes the shims a lot easier to deal with
Yeah, I wasn't really worried about it with this install because I plan to get the alignment done and then they'd be all good. But thanks for the heads up. :)
Can't wait for the before and after driving video. A review of one of the laser based alignment kits would be great.
Ooohh, I could use one of those laser kits.
I’m glad I found your channel I need to do the same set up, Mike and his dad had a shop in Hayward really cool guys.
Welcome aboard!
Yeah Mike’s a cool cat! 🙂
Mike and his brother now have two separate business, Mike's shop is now in Livermoore, I think his brother took over his dads shop after his father passed.
Hi Andy, probably should even up the shim stacks. The reason the front stack is bigger is because that's how you're getting your positive caster but your caster is now positive via the setback ball joint in the arm. You will have so much positive caster now your steering will be excessively heavy.
Right, that's why I recommended people get an alignment after install. :)
Nice mod, good looking parts. I keep mine as is......with this old man driver good enough!!!! BTW my hood rubber snubs were awful...never noticed...ordered a set....put them on SAT. Thx
Yeah, these control arms might not be for everyone. But that's ok, all of us with them get to keep the secret to ourselves. ;)
Man you are building a awesome mustang.
Thanks!
Nice job will help improve the handling a bunch!
I hope so, more to come. :)
Always a detailed video ❤
Thank you! :)
Awesome mod! Would have love to see a gopro cornering video before and after the mod to see how much of a difference visually it makes.
Yeah, those kinds of shots are cool, but it really won't capture how the car handles or how the driver can gain confidence while driving. The work that the coilover is putting in would do more for a shot like that than the upper control arm, since it essentially moves in the same manor as the previous arm. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel good to know hopefully I can save up for some next year. I blew my budget this year for fun project stuff hahah
Good job on the thumbnail!
Haha, thanks!! :)
Great video. I'm eager for your driving review
Thanks!
Once Alain thanks for youre videoes, they are a grelt inspiration, and a quality upgrade. im shure that youre car must be handeling fantastic With all the upgrades you have done 🎉
Thanks! So far so good. 😁
Great video.
it looks like the upper control arm is more pointed. With 14 inch magnums, 225/60R14 there is probably no need for a spacer now due of rubbing the tire.
Thanks! :)
Great job!
Thanks!
Looks like you will have a lot of caster with that many shims and the new relocated angle of the ball joint
The shims are in the front, which pushes the control arm towards the back of the car, creating caster. However, I need to get an alignment because those specific stack of shims are not what this car needs right now.
The amount of shims you had looked very similar to my 66! 5 in the front and 1 in the back. Figured someone might have been drunk putting my front end together
I have no idea who did the shims last, but I imagine it could have been worse. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel you should check your alignment I'd be interested to see what you get castor wise with those new uppers!
@@jordanschultz2232 You should check out the video I did after this one. 😉
Great vid as always. I like some of the improvements in these A-arms but as someone who isn't quite ready to Shelby drop the car (already sits pretty low; don't want to lose more ground clearance!) I wonder if these would work OK with the stock A-arm mount position.
Absolutely. They don't affect any lowering done or even if the car is stock height, but they do improve caster, which is great for all of our cars. :)
Since the new arms have caster built in you should not need all the original shims. Also I noticed you are using some small shims, try to find the big oem Ford style ones. You'll get less cracking of the shock tower.
Alignment has been performed, shims are mostly gone, but that's due to the camber I requested.
What if I don't want Shelby drop cab still use control arm and your right all these choices on suspension parts every one says there's are the best
People don't have to do the Shelby drop, but if someone was interested in the improvements these control arms offer, it doesn't make sense why they'd pass on the Shelby drop. :)
@johnwesleycollins...If you want to avoid drilling holes, I believe that Global West has a similar upper control arm with the Shelby Drop built into the pivot shaft
Great vid,Andy! And informative and inspiring!
Not to get off the subject of your video, I got really piqued by your Monte Carlo bar installation. The passenger side has what appears to be a large heim joint or ? compared to the driver side. I have a straight bar I want to install on my '68. It's the kind of bar that bolts to the inner fender panels. I do not like this. The bar should be installed on the beefy shock tower metal (IMHO) like the Trans Am cars. I was wondering if you could do a vid on your installation of your bar. In particular, any welded in brackets you made to accept the bar ends.
That car of yours is gorgeous! I've always thought the '65 -'66 f/b's looked "sleeker" than the newer classics 'Stang f/b's.
I have a video on my channel of the Monte Carlo Bar I sell, the current version with the rod ends (heim joints). I put this video on my channel in March 2023, called "New Monte Carlo Bar Design!" I also have a link to that video on my website where I sell the bar. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks,Andy! Gonna check it out.
Can you eliminate the need for shims by pairing that UCA with adjustable strut rods? Good stuff Kruse!
I don't believe so, I need those shims to I don't have too much negative camber. However, I don't know how much shimming is needed at the moment, so I need to get an alignment done STAT! :)
Super curious as to how their lower control arms would ride. Any plans on doing that? Thanks!
Yes, but I need to save my lunch money for a while before I can buy them. :)
Great video. I thought I was ready to move forward with SoT or OT UCA's, but now you've got me thinking!
I notice you are using the holes you did for the Shelby drop to mount this. However, on the Maier website, it says "We also set the shaft up to use swappable alignment keys, letting you easily dial in exactly where you want the shaft to sit without having to drill additional holes (as you would for the Shelby drop)."
So I'm a bit confused, doesn't this mean you should use the stock holes and use the swappable alignment keys instead of having to do a Shelby drop?
Another great video--my 3yo and I love watching when you have new ones.
It is recommended that people do the Shelby drop for this Upper Control Arm, but Mike Maier also recognizes that not everyone wants to drill holes in their car. Because of that, people can choose to utilize that key to aid in the mounting location of that UCA, without the need for the Drop. However, if someone is electing to upgrade their UCAs to something like this, it would make sense they're trying to improve the handling of their car and the Shelby Drop helps with that in ways that the UCA can't contribute. So it's win-win to do the Drop and install these UCAs from Mike Maier. :)
Question Andy: Minute 8:06 - You state that damage may occur, this damage is to the ball joint not the upper control arm. Is that correct? I ask because I intend to reuse my upper control arm.
Correct, using the pickle-fork will likely chew up the stud and/or the ball joint boot during removal. But that's ok, because those parts won't be used anymore. Also, using the pickle-fork is the preferred method, partially because it will not damage the spindle assembly. That's why I said to not use the hammer straight onto the spindle. In an extreme scenario, using the hammer straight on the spindle could crack it. No bueno. :)
Thanks Andy and Thumbs up@@AndyKruseChannel
my 289 is stock I want to put an intake and a 4-barrel carb I plan to upgrade the ignition and headers later and that's all, the motor will be stock for the rest. I will be only using it for cruising, what intake and ignition do you recommend. also, carb. O yea I have followed you for years love you videos , I did the same front sway bar you used on your car, I plan down the road to put the sway bar on the back, the front bar makes my car handle a lot better, I put 4-wheel disc brake on it last week, Thanks Andy
For your build, I recommend the Edelbrock Performer 289, part number 2121. You can save a few bucks buying a used unit, it all works the same. For ignition, I recommend the Pertronix 1281. It might be a good idea to pair that with their Blaster Coil, part number 40011.
For the rear sway bar, you could install the same Helwig unit that I put on my last car, but I recommend finding room in the budget for a Panhard Bar in place of the rear sway bar. If you go down that path, either buy the unit that Maier Racing sells, or get the one that Mike Maier sells (they're brothers, either bar is perfect for your car). :)
Thanks Andy
@@AndyKruseChannel
Awesome! I have granada spindles and their disk brakes. Do you know if they fit with that combo? Keep working toward that electric power steering. :-)
They should fit, they all use the same size balljoint, making fitment a breeze. The brakes won't affect fitment, so you're good there. :)
The Granada (if I remember) are the same ball joint.. it’s the Lincoln Versailles that had the odd ones. But BOTH have different spinal location / geometry.. I would check with the Maier.. see what they say
Hey Andy have you thought about changing out your lower control arm?
I changed mine out with the lower control arm kit from CPP
Yes I have. :)
Lower control arms next?
I'm not a liberty to discuss. :)