This was so interesting, I really understood for the first time how the suspension all fits together. The only thing that I didn’t understand was how the shock was secured both to the upper control arm as well as to the shock tower, you went a bit fast for me!
I purchased at 1 5/8" wedge drop kit for 114$ on ebay modified moog ball joints Completed build last week put a heavier 1" drop coil spring Leaving the plate for extra strength was nice cause now it takes less shims to do alignment My 65 coupe sits nice now
Just purchased a 2004 V6 silver mustang for my son. Beautiful car no rust but had to hv a lot of things done so far. It still needs tires and I was told shocks for the back U was told. I am not a mechanic but trying to learn. It still rides alittle rough what should be my priority to help with that? Shocks, suspension, or something else? Had to change out the following: Lower ball joints Inner tie rods Outer tie rods Rack and pinion All four rear control arms Ball bearings ( had a mechanic do all this) I am subscribed and thank you.
The Shelby drop and some decent springs will beat the mustang II setup any day. Only real advantage to the mustang II is the deleting of shock towers. Looking forward to seeing this thing rock
Just bought a 69 Mustang coupe. I love your videos. Do you have any others? It seemed like you stopped halfway through the project. Or am I missing something? Thanks again for the great vids and doing what you do. Cheers.
I was with ya until I saw the size of the front sway bar...... upgrade that biaaatch! oh and you could have boxed the lower control arm with some steel... makes it very strong... good job!
That 1" Shelby/Arning drop doesn't sound like much until you see it on the car. Even though that's a stock-ish rebuild, the updates you chose should make a big difference.
Budget Build Garage it’s very nice shape. Car was put up two years ago. Previous owner health/finical reason. He did not want to sell but forced to. 69 Fastback 302 c4 auto, vintage air, black on black. I need to get it running. Hopefully some fresh fuel. Oil up the cylinders and crank over by hand a few times. Good tip on spring perches. I did a 67 once and the polyurethane did bind some. I’m also amazed how many guys air gun a suspension system while it in the air. Always good to lower and climb under and finish tightening if you can fit.
@@dougcoleburn1579 That sounds like an awesome car. Fast backs are hard to find. Once you get it started let me know how that A/C works. My wife wants it for her car.
I just did very similar on my 1966 Coupe. The only thing I found problematic was the progressive rate springs (Eibach ) didn't give me the fender clearance I needed since I am running 17" wheels. SO I went with the grab a track 620' - SAME unsprung height but didn't sink like the other springs. People need to factor that in - .6 inch taller tire, 1" spring drop and Shelby drop cuts 1/4 to 1/2 inch...so you could actually lose a bit over 2" fender clearance. Great video. just adding some data :-)
I don't understand why drilling those holes lower in the shock tower is called a Shelby drop. Seems like if you lower the control arm you raise the car... 🤔
It looks like you have a spacer or support bracket between the upper control arm mount and the shock tower????? Does the upper control arm come with the bracket ???
What kind of brakes ? And im currently trying to fix my 1972 Ford Mustang grande it speaks down the road and i have replaced everything so far but now im thinking performance parts instead of ome
Thanks for watching. There are a lot of choices. You can use a 1 in. that will improve performance but not be to harsh or you can go with a 1.25 that will really help control the car.
HI there Awesome set up! have a question I have all new stock Suspension on a 1970 mach1 but adding the Hotchiks springs, The only problem Is the spring moves like if you grab and turn after all parts Installed and I am using the thick top insulators that came with the springs I have no wheels on on jack stand for now any Ideas Thanks!
Just found your channel; got some more to watch now; nice setup, really addresses the biggest drawbacks in there; Summit just had a instant rebate on the qa1 coilover setup that I may have taken advantage of. Seems like a pretty great value for the price. My dad is gonna be re-vamping the front suspension on his 69 vert soon here too!
Hey Guys, I have a 66 Mustang, 289 coupe, in excellent nick. It was restored to factory condition with stock parts 7 years ago. Now while I'm quarantined at home, I'm looking at some new projects to make the car better to drive. My main focus is the sloppy handling. I wanna know what you think are the most essential upgrades, especially what will give me immediately noticeable results and the best bang for my buck. I only use my car as a weekend cruiser, so don't know if some upgrades such as disk brakes are really worth it. The upgrades I am considering are: 1. Subframe connectors 2. Monte Carlo bar 3. Front disk brake conversion 4. Upgrades to front suspension (better coils, shocks, hardware, bushings?) 5. Upgrades to rear suspension (especially sagging leaf springs) 6. Better engine crossmember (with welded flanges) 7. Shock tower reinforcement plate (welded near the UC arms) 8. Rear firewall The upgrades I have already done: 1. Refreshed drum brakes x 4 2. Dual brake master cylinder with power booster 3. All new bushings on suspension 4. New standard shocks 5. Pertronix electronic ignition 6. Export brace 7. Recored radiator, upgraded fan and shroud Looking forward to hearing what upgrades you think I should do first. Cheers! Umanng from sunny Perth, Australia.
Great video. I’m basically building building my mustang right now to the T as you guys did. One question, where did you get the spacer and what is the size of the spacer? Thanks. Keep up the good work. Next I will be watching your brakes episode. I fallowed the link and purchased the same brakes as well.
Great video. Couple questions, did you plug the stock holes in the upper control arm. Also what bolts did you use to replace the the ones that come with the spring perch. The new bolts needs to be much longer. I found some that will work but they will no longer be pressed in. I am planning on just using lock washers. Thoughts?
Great video! Have you driven the car since the change of the upper control arms and the suspension? Did you notice big difference in driving? What was the biggest benefit?
Putting mine back together. Shelby drop and 620 1 inch lowering springs. Do you think I would need shock spacers? Using stock uca. If so where did you get spacers? Summit racing? Thanks!
I saw mention of an issue when doing the Shelby drop in regard to the grease zerts on the control arm because of the contour of the shock tower. Any ideas on this?
So I’m going to be doing this build on my mustang in a few days along with the wilwood setup on your other video. My question is can I run 17x8 rims with that Shelby drop plate? What is the best backspacing and tire size for this build without getting any rub or without using spacers or adapters??
Great tips! just a question, in the Summit web page, they recommend the RK621369 - Moog R-Series Control Arms instead of the one in your link, what are the differences?....or why do you recommend the one that you use? ( Upper Control Arms MNR-733), thanks!
Love your videos! Can I ask what makes the Global West UCA's worth the extras cost? You mention that the balljoint is in a different spot, what exactly is the benefit of that?
Cars back in the 1960's did not utilize much caster, probably due to the tires of that time. Now, with upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part of the drivability of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown. - Global West
I clicked on the link to summit for the global west upper control arms..MNR-733 fitment...it says "does not fit your 69 mustang" but when i click "see what does fit your 69 mustang" it rolls right back to the part it just said doesn't fit...sooooo...does it fit or not? Please, and thank you! Have a great week!
I have a ‘68 coupe and like cost of this and ability to do this project myself. Couple questions- how much of a drop does this give you from stock setup? Are these lower control arms same as stock or do you need to buy these to make it work/offer the same results? (I replaced mine recently). Are the shocks shorter than stock? (also just replaced these). Thanks & appreciate the info & video
Texas Aggisport I think roller perches are great but they cost a lot more than the ones I used and I don't think the difference overcomes the price. If money wasn't an issue then I would run the roller perches.
Great video. I do have some questions. I'm preparing myself for my suspension on my 70. Why didn't you just reuse the upper control arm? What's the advantage of buying a newer one? That lower control arm you used is very cheap in price. Is it the same quality? Is you get what you pay for not a consideration here? Last question do you have to remove the breaks?
You can use a stock style upper control arm but “Cars back in the 1960's did not utilize much caster, probably due to the tires of that time. Now, with upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part of the drivability of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown.” -from Global West’s website.
The stock lower control is inexpensive because the coil spring doesn’t connect to it like later suspension designs. Just make sure you avoid cheap imports. Moog is a good manufacturer to consider.
That's a great question, I was wondering why he didn't just buy the coilovers from Aldan American for less than $700 seeing as he probably spent the same for this setup
From the factory early fords were designed to understeer.ie if you corner too fast the front of the car goes straight ahead. Car makers at the time thought this was safer. With the stock set up as the body rolls into a turn the top of the tyre moves outward ie positive camber and so ends up running on the outside edge and ploughs straight ahead.When you lower the inner pivot point as in the shelby mod, the tyre pulls in at the top ie negative camber which keeps the tread flat on the road and makes the cornering much sharper.This is much easier to understand if I could show you a diagram with the arcs but I'm too old and untech savy to do that.
I know there are a few differences between the two cars. I would call to find out if the control arms will work. I think the spring perches are the same.
Great video, but you all need to get over that “heavy metal” background music. It makes it difficult to hear all thats being said, which is way more interesting.
I don't know much about suspension, but it's odd how you went overkill on the upper and just stock on the lower doesn't make a lot sense in my opinion. The shock towers are only so good and the lower control arm isn't much. I don't know what upper I will be running , but I have stock lowers with Opentracker Racing bracing and roller bushings. At 400 I decided to cut my strut rods off and threaded them for sleeves and rod ends up front. I think 100 will do the strut rod modification.
I liked this a lot until I heard the music, loud and annoying like Power Nation, Come on guys, just content and we'll select our own music! Keep at it!
THANKS GUYS FOR WATCHING!!! WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK OF THIS SETUP?
I like the idea of getting a new control arms instead of dealing with the old ones.
Budget Build Garage smart move is what I think.
Thanks man! This thing should be a lot of fun.
They are pretty inexpensive and it saves you from having to remove the ball joint rivets.
You need an export brace! The suspension mods are solid but you're still gonna get a lot of flex from your stock 2 piece braces.
awesome videos, i think the plates with the offset holes is for an earlier model(64.5-66), i found out about that when i was searching for my 67 coupe
This was so interesting, I really understood for the first time how the suspension all fits together. The only thing that I didn’t understand was how the shock was secured both to the upper control arm as well as to the shock tower, you went a bit fast for me!
The shock lower mounts to the saddle inside the spring .
Found your channel today. Great job. And also picked up my 67 coupe for my 16th birthday!
That's awesome man! If you have Instagram you should tag me in a post so I can see your car.
3 years later would you change the build in any way? Looking to do this soon
I purchased at 1 5/8" wedge drop kit for 114$ on ebay modified moog ball joints
Completed build last week put a heavier 1" drop coil spring
Leaving the plate for extra strength was nice cause now it takes less shims to do alignment
My 65 coupe sits nice now
9:19 "Looks awesome because we ain't buying a new one!" - this made me laugh! thanks for sharing the video, pretty cool!
Just purchased a 2004 V6 silver mustang for my son. Beautiful car no rust but had to hv a lot of things done so far. It still needs tires and I was told shocks for the back U was told. I am not a mechanic but trying to learn. It still rides alittle rough what should be my priority to help with that? Shocks, suspension, or something else? Had to change out the following: Lower ball joints
Inner tie rods
Outer tie rods
Rack and pinion
All four rear control arms
Ball bearings ( had a mechanic do all this)
I am subscribed and thank you.
The Shelby drop and some decent springs will beat the mustang II setup any day. Only real advantage to the mustang II is the deleting of shock towers. Looking forward to seeing this thing rock
I agree. It is a cheaper and easier set up than the Mustang 2 and you don't need to do any real modifications to the car.
Just bought a 69 Mustang coupe. I love your videos. Do you have any others? It seemed like you stopped halfway through the project. Or am I missing something? Thanks again for the great vids and doing what you do. Cheers.
Awesome video!
I was with ya until I saw the size of the front sway bar...... upgrade that biaaatch! oh and you could have boxed the lower control arm with some steel... makes it very strong... good job!
So, what's the verdict? Do you have an update on the handling and steering? We never heard how well they worked.
That 1" Shelby/Arning drop doesn't sound like much until you see it on the car. Even though that's a stock-ish rebuild, the updates you chose should make a big difference.
Great video! I just picked up a 69 Mustang.
Nice man! What mind of shape is it in?
Budget Build Garage it’s very nice shape. Car was put up two years ago. Previous owner health/finical reason. He did not want to sell but forced to. 69 Fastback 302 c4 auto, vintage air, black on black. I need to get it running. Hopefully some fresh fuel. Oil up the cylinders and crank over by hand a few times.
Good tip on spring perches. I did a 67 once and the polyurethane did bind some. I’m also amazed how many guys air gun a suspension system while it in the air. Always good to lower and climb under and finish tightening if you can fit.
@@dougcoleburn1579 That sounds like an awesome car. Fast backs are hard to find. Once you get it started let me know how that A/C works. My wife wants it for her car.
Budget Build Garage will do!
Do you have to take apart the entire drum brake when removing the spindle or can you just remove the 4 bolts on the back? I’m reusing my drum for now
I just did very similar on my 1966 Coupe. The only thing I found problematic was the progressive rate springs (Eibach ) didn't give me the fender clearance I needed since I am running 17" wheels. SO I went with the grab a track 620' - SAME unsprung height but didn't sink like the other springs. People need to factor that in - .6 inch taller tire, 1" spring drop and Shelby drop cuts 1/4 to 1/2 inch...so you could actually lose a bit over 2" fender clearance. Great video. just adding some data :-)
Do you have to do the Shelby drop to do this install? Or does it just make it that much better? Thanks Love the vids.
I don't understand why drilling those holes lower in the shock tower is called a Shelby drop. Seems like if you lower the control arm you raise the car... 🤔
It looks like you have a spacer or support bracket between the upper control arm mount and the shock tower????? Does the upper control arm come with the bracket ???
Also your thoughts on the export shock tower brace. And how about a fatter sway bar. Any pros and cons on the bigger sway bar? Thanks and great video!
Bigger sway bars help a ton. They help keep the car flat through turns. A nice export brace is great to minimize flex in the shock towers.
What kind of brakes ? And im currently trying to fix my 1972 Ford Mustang grande it speaks down the road and i have replaced everything so far but now im thinking performance parts instead of ome
Nice setup. Guessing the rear suspension will be next.
DJHighTopFade Brakes are next and then the rear suspension.
Since your channel is "Budget Build", would you consider using the Autozone ceramic brake pads with the lifetime warranty?
It depends on what type of car you are working on or trying to build. There is nothing wrong with most store brand parts.
Awesome Pacific Rim t-shirt by the way
What product(s) did you guys use to paint the wheel wells?
What was the need for the spacer on the shock tower to upper control arm?
Great video's. They are helping me out a lot. Do you have any suggestions on a sway bar upgrade instead of using the stock 11/16"?
Thanks for watching. There are a lot of choices. You can use a 1 in. that will improve performance but not be to harsh or you can go with a 1.25 that will really help control the car.
Good video but the background music is to loud
HI there Awesome set up! have a question I have all new stock Suspension on a 1970 mach1 but adding the Hotchiks springs, The only problem Is the spring moves like if you grab and turn after all parts Installed and I am using the thick top insulators that came with the springs I have no wheels on on jack stand for now any Ideas Thanks!
Just found your channel; got some more to watch now; nice setup, really addresses the biggest drawbacks in there; Summit just had a instant rebate on the qa1 coilover setup that I may have taken advantage of. Seems like a pretty great value for the price. My dad is gonna be re-vamping the front suspension on his 69 vert soon here too!
What was total cost to do the front end job? Parts only. I will do install myself. Thanks!
I cant remember the cost but there are links for each part in the description.
Hey Guys,
I have a 66 Mustang, 289 coupe, in excellent nick. It was restored to factory condition with stock parts 7 years ago. Now while I'm quarantined at home, I'm looking at some new projects to make the car better to drive.
My main focus is the sloppy handling. I wanna know what you think are the most essential upgrades, especially what will give me immediately noticeable results and the best bang for my buck. I only use my car as a weekend cruiser, so don't know if some upgrades such as disk brakes are really worth it.
The upgrades I am considering are:
1. Subframe connectors
2. Monte Carlo bar
3. Front disk brake conversion
4. Upgrades to front suspension (better coils, shocks, hardware, bushings?)
5. Upgrades to rear suspension (especially sagging leaf springs)
6. Better engine crossmember (with welded flanges)
7. Shock tower reinforcement plate (welded near the UC arms)
8. Rear firewall
The upgrades I have already done:
1. Refreshed drum brakes x 4
2. Dual brake master cylinder with power booster
3. All new bushings on suspension
4. New standard shocks
5. Pertronix electronic ignition
6. Export brace
7. Recored radiator, upgraded fan and shroud
Looking forward to hearing what upgrades you think I should do first.
Cheers!
Umanng from sunny Perth, Australia.
Can you do a Shelby drop on a stock grab and track suspension kit?
Great video. I’m basically building building my mustang right now to the T as you guys did. One question, where did you get the spacer and what is the size of the spacer? Thanks. Keep up the good work. Next I will be watching your brakes episode. I fallowed the link and purchased the same brakes as well.
Nice job! Could you tell us the total drop in the front after the mods?
Great video. Couple questions, did you plug the stock holes in the upper control arm. Also what bolts did you use to replace the the ones that come with the spring perch. The new bolts needs to be much longer. I found some that will work but they will no longer be pressed in. I am planning on just using lock washers. Thoughts?
That's exactly what I did just make sure to use grade 8 an I used a nylon lock nut with the lock washer since that area is one of the most stressed.
Great video!
Have you driven the car since the change of the upper control arms and the suspension?
Did you notice big difference in driving? What was the biggest benefit?
That's one of my favorite cars☺
It is a really cool car. I cant wait to get it on the road and thrash it a bit!
Putting mine back together. Shelby drop and 620 1 inch lowering springs. Do you think I would need shock spacers?
Using stock uca. If so where did you get spacers? Summit racing? Thanks!
You may not need spacers but I would probably put them in. You can get them at any hardware store.
What did plate do for the upper control arm? Clearance? Stance? It seemed like such a small difference. Like less than an inch.
U guys should make a video of the car on the ground with the set up
lookin good !
I can't find the link for the spacer used on the upper control arm. Any chance you could post a part number or width?
I saw mention of an issue when doing the Shelby drop in regard to the grease zerts on the control arm because of the contour of the shock tower. Any ideas on this?
They can keep the fastbacks. Love the coupes.
So I’m going to be doing this build on my mustang in a few days along with the wilwood setup on your other video. My question is can I run 17x8 rims with that Shelby drop plate? What is the best backspacing and tire size for this build without getting any rub or without using spacers or adapters??
Does lowering the upper control arm, lower the car ?
And where do I get the lowering template?
Try some cutting compound on your drill bits ,you'll get a cleaner hole and you'll save your wrists
ok. i got these springs for my 66 with a 351w.. i was wondering if this will make the car sit too low with
the Shelby drop ??
Can you provide a list of parts you bought to conduct this upgrade? Thanks in advance
Any reason you chose the Global West upper control arms over the Hotchkis equivalent?
Great tips! just a question, in the Summit web page, they recommend the RK621369 - Moog R-Series Control Arms instead of the one in your link, what are the differences?....or why do you recommend the one that you use? ( Upper Control Arms MNR-733), thanks!
Thank you
Will this set up clear a 18inch wheel ?
Anyway you could direct me to site that specifies drop plate diagram to make myself?
Love your videos! Can I ask what makes the Global West UCA's worth the extras cost? You mention that the balljoint is in a different spot, what exactly is the benefit of that?
Cars back in the 1960's did not utilize much caster, probably due to the tires of that time. Now, with upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part of the drivability of the car.
Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown. - Global West
I clicked on the link to summit for the global west upper control arms..MNR-733 fitment...it says "does not fit your 69 mustang" but when i click "see what does fit your 69 mustang" it rolls right back to the part it just said doesn't fit...sooooo...does it fit or not? Please, and thank you! Have a great week!
Hello?
I have a ‘68 coupe and like cost of this and ability to do this project myself. Couple questions- how much of a drop does this give you from stock setup? Are these lower control arms same as stock or do you need to buy these to make it work/offer the same results? (I replaced mine recently). Are the shocks shorter than stock? (also just replaced these). Thanks & appreciate the info & video
Is it possible to do this same setup, without the UCA drop kit? Any issues?
Nice!
what is the part number for the perch, cannot locate that design, also 390 big block springs available?
How much lower is the car? I like the set up but would like to keep somewhat of a stock height.
How far did you drop upper control arm holes?
Can you give me your take on roller perches vs the ones you used from SD?
Texas Aggisport I think roller perches are great but they cost a lot more than the ones I used and I don't think the difference overcomes the price. If money wasn't an issue then I would run the roller perches.
do you know how much the springs dropped the car in the front? Thanks again!
Does this setup work for a 67 Mustang?
Good info. Ty
Great video. I do have some questions. I'm preparing myself for my suspension on my 70.
Why didn't you just reuse the upper control arm? What's the advantage of buying a newer one?
That lower control arm you used is very cheap in price. Is it the same quality? Is you get what you pay for not a consideration here?
Last question do you have to remove the breaks?
You can use a stock style upper control arm but “Cars back in the 1960's did not utilize much caster, probably due to the tires of that time. Now, with upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part of the drivability of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown.” -from Global West’s website.
The stock lower control is inexpensive because the coil spring doesn’t connect to it like later suspension designs. Just make sure you avoid cheap imports. Moog is a good manufacturer to consider.
That's a great question, I was wondering why he didn't just buy the coilovers from Aldan American for less than $700 seeing as he probably spent the same for this setup
Should use. Better sway bar
I have a 390 engine I want to do the Shelby drop w/ the upper and lower arms you used what springs should I use
What did you use to clean your wheel wells?
Any pics of the car on the ground? Would love to see ride height and stance. Thanks and hope to see more content. Sub'd!
curious why you lowered the upper control arm
From the factory early fords were designed to understeer.ie if you corner too fast the front of the car goes straight ahead. Car makers at the time thought this was safer. With the stock set up as the body rolls into a turn the top of the tyre moves outward ie positive camber and so ends up running on the outside edge and ploughs straight ahead.When you lower the inner pivot point as in the shelby mod, the tyre pulls in at the top ie negative camber which keeps the tread flat on the road and makes the cornering much sharper.This is much easier to understand if I could show you a diagram with the arcs but I'm too old and untech savy to do that.
Would this apply to a 64 fairlane it has the same suspension I believe
Think its the same for a 71 ford maverick?
I know there are a few differences between the two cars. I would call to find out if the control arms will work. I think the spring perches are the same.
Good stuff. I reckon I might hear what you’re saying if you turn the background music down/off...please. 😇
Great video, but you all need to get over that “heavy metal” background music. It makes it difficult to hear all thats being said, which is way more interesting.
so inspiring
Hey this is probably my bad but what kind of upper arm is the one that you use and where do I get it ?
How much is the cost for this kit
Drill speed on metal is supposed to be slow. Going fast risks injury and damage. Only wood is to be drilled at a fast speed.
I don't know much about suspension, but it's odd how you went overkill on the upper and just stock on the lower doesn't make a lot sense in my opinion. The shock towers are only so good and the lower control arm isn't much. I don't know what upper I will be running , but I have stock lowers with Opentracker Racing bracing and roller bushings. At 400 I decided to cut my strut rods off and threaded them for sleeves and rod ends up front. I think 100 will do the strut rod modification.
What is the drop on the template for upper control arm
The soundtrack is too up front, needs to be dialed back or eliminated. Other than that, good informative vlog 👍
Will this work on a 67 mustang
Can you give me a list of the stuff you used thanks
14:55 same when musical instruments are being played and are clearly not being played
Can you come to Cali and do
My car
Looks like the spring will fall out if the front suspension extends to much
The shock will limit the amount of downward travel your suspension is capable of on a mustang
Along with the sway bar link that he attaches after he jacked the lower control arm up after putting in the coil
Great video. Did you plug the stock holes that are not being used in the upper control arm?
Why the heavy metal? I can't watch, it's too distracting.
I liked this a lot until I heard the music, loud and annoying like Power Nation, Come on guys, just content and we'll select our own music! Keep at it!
Turn down the music.
Chip Foose's Love Child?
Enough with the music already
Wow when did David Spade get into working on cars?! 🤣🤣🤣