I'm 62 years old, retired, and been working with electronics since tubes were in fashion. I really enjoyed this video. While I can afford a ready-made power supply, you've inspired me to make my own variable voltage supply. Thanks!
Omg, I'm literally just printing your 18650 powerbank the whole day! Specially bought an ender 3 to make this project. I'm really excited to make this one too in the future. Love the way you explain everything and make it available for everyone to make. Thanks and keep up the good work!
Your channel is awesome. Step by step instructions, parts list, script, models, and documentation? You've created the perfect place online to learn and follow along.
Hey I love how straight forward you explain everything. The problem is usually people will overcomplicate it or dumb it down so much the video is just too long. Right exactly my speed. Which is interesting because you're clearly well beyond my capabilities given how you design these things. Looking forward to that Positron 2.0
Outstanding. The best teaching video I've seen of its type. That comes from a guy who taught for 37 years. Some picky stuff, sure. A diode should protect all the DC inputs and outputs. People screw up wiring barrel jacks and such all the time. Think about a smoothing cap right at the binding posts. Do some ripple tests and work out your optimum capacity. The mains termination to the board really needs to be mechanical. Solder and hot glue aren't enough. I'd add a set of USB sockets to both input and output sides. Use diodes here again. As in all designs, things would change a little if you had an industrial style review meeting or committee. Someday, you will be running one of those if you keep going. I can't find a Patreon account for you. If you have one, please let me know. I would be interested in purchasing your boxes or even kits. Let me know if you are interested. You're a star kid. Keep it up.
Nice build, may I suggest using a thermal speed controller for the fan instead of a switch or just auto full on. This way you prolong the life of the fan and also have the appropriate speed to match the temperature needed to be cooled. Edit** I am looking to do something similar with a toroidal transformer that has 2 suitable secondary windings that will give me a 5v Fast Charge USB and 2x 12v outputs as well as two additional windings (with on/off switches of course) to use as a dual variable supplies
Thank you, I live off grid in Hawaii. I have been going crazy trying to find one that I could run off my DC system. I was dreeding the thought of converting DC to AC so I could power a DC power supply. I have just gotten by using whichever old phone charger that came closest to the current need. I'll be doing this tomorrow, Mahalo Brah , your a Champ.
This is an awesome build. I think a flip down handle underneath so you could flip it down angling the box/screen upward for easier viewing. Just a thought.
Very informative, I love that you seem to have done all the difficulty out of finding a decent way to make a power supply that has some awesome features. Thanks for your video!
@@ReneStover I have no idea. I mean, i only did electronics in high school, so i can only speak for that.. almost 20 years ago... they taught me to solder correctly. I've only gotten better at it since then. I don't know if they cover soldering in high school anymore, or college, or vocational school....maybe they do, maybe this guy was taught how to do it right, but doesn't care, or sucks at it.. Or maybe he's self taught, and learned how to solder from watching some tit on youtube do it wrong. I honestly have no idea. What i do know for sure is that his soldering technique is genuinely terrifying.
The solder job at 8:49 was horrendous, although some of the other joints were not QUITE so bad. Some of the soldering footage was at 2x speed though, so it looks like he withdraws the iron too early but may not be quite as bad as it seems. (Still, I agree, the results are not fabulous by any means. This is a problem when working with mains, earthing, etc...)
This project came to be because I wanted a portable, accurate and versatile power supply, and nothing online satisfied my needs. I hope this video can help some of you to make your own in case you need a solution like this. Feel free to ask me any questions in the comments. I will try to answer them to the best of my abilities.
Man, every video of yours is like birthday to me. I am 15, I watched your power bank vid like 50 times already and now I am going to build it. I learned so much from your videos and electronics is my new passion. Thank you
Hey man oh, I've been looking for the same thing for a very long time. Thank you so much for providing this. I still plan on designing my own version but I'm very proud that somebody has finally made something this elegant with the technology available to us. I wish you the best and I can't wait for the next one
You need to improve your soldering. I saw many cold solder joints on your video. Soldering iron tip should touch to the legs 1-2 seconds more after you pull out the solder.
Yes, and heat ALL parts of the joint, NOT just the top item, and then flow the solder into the joint. Almost every solder joint shown in this video is appallingly poor. Anyone dealing with electronics should have far better soldering skills than what is demonstrated in this video.
@Blondie SL I have seen this design a few times, do not believe it is his.. They might have done a few tweaks but sure it is stolen from the internet..
That’s what I was thinking. The soldering iron’s job is to heat the components so thay *they* melt the solder causing the joint to be “wet”, not to melt the solder directly. Considering that there are a lot of high-current connections here (and that this is a portable power supply) , good solder joints are essential.
I was taught: "Don't paint." Don't use the soldering iron like a paint brush. If you have to "paint" the solder on, you're doing it wrong. Let it flow. If it doesn't flow, use more flux. Still doesn't flow? More heat.
How to solder a 20amp Diode : HOLD THE GOT DAMN IRON ON IT UNTIL IT GETS HOT ENOUGH AND SOLDER *FLOWS* onto the leads (2-4 seconds) that being said i was VERY impressed by how you desoldered that SMD LED , i couldnt do that if i tried :D
Doesn't take much - big blob of solder on the iron tip, touch the LED, pull it off. Most of them time they're even salvageable, but not necessary for this.
If I might offer a suggestion, spacing the banana jacks by .75" will enable the use of industry-standard two-conductor leads. It looks like they may be a tad farther apart.
Three things: great project, mad props for using standard units instead of metric, and for Proverbs 9:10. Major thumbs up from me. I'd build one of these if I had a printer. I have needed a DC power source before while diagnosing electronics.
Can I say that in the UK we did use red live, Black neutral, Green earth, but we converted to European colours years ago? Brown live, blue neutral, green earth in our plugs, & all mains operated items, have to come from the manufacturer with plug wired, I believe. Good video, I like it.
Great fabrication, really enjoyed your process, and design. I've got the drok equivalent, (almost) and now, can realize how to actually maximize it due to what you have done. Thank you.
The power supply that you made is awesome and actually the biggest advantage is the dc input . Thanks for the project. I think that I have to make a new power supply . 👍👍👍👍
You should at least learn how to solder before designing a mains powered device, learn about reliable connections and how to connect the mains earth without being a safety hazard. Then think about the mechanical stability of your casing before you switch on your EMI/Ripple generator. At all it visually looks nice and many considerations went into this project. So thank you for showing this off.
Agree. It is scary at times. It seems more like 'tacking' than soldering. And, like you said, no mechanical bond. and like you alluded to the connection seems ill-suited for mains or high current..
I finished building this PSU today and I have to say that it is really awesome but I installed an BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 12v Fan to cool the entire thing more efficient. If you want to get a 3D printer that is cheap and easy to repair, then I recommend the Creality Ender 3 pro. I bought this printer for 120$ from ebay and it just worked fine, after I printed 3D upgrade parts to improve the 3D printing capabilities with this printer.
Overall the kid did a fair job with the video. What amazes me are the self absorbed guru's out there trying to nit-pick what ever they can to make themselves feel good for not being able to accomplish anything equal to or better.
Your engineering skills and creativity are inspiring to watch. I definitely enjoy the videos where you explain better than the ones with words on the screen and music. Well done!
Nice project! Warning though - your XT60 connector is the wrong one for the output DC - you could short that connection with a screwdriver or small piece of wire, LED leg, resistor wire etc that may fly in there. Safer to have DC out of a MALE XT60 as you can't easily bridge it. 👌🏻
Oh Boy, I am glad to see this video, i was just the other day debating to build me a CC / CV bench power supply.. but i was going to build it with 2N3055 Transistors. but now that i see this one, it will be much easier and efficient.
Because he can solder together fine made done modules ? :"D Pls... check GreatScott and think about it again... I mean... this is not bad, but nothing special, except the 3D printed housing, everything else is known stuff long time ago... i had a buck boost converter almost the same, but better version (because it is not just Buck Converter) and had a better Displayed controll board... All was 10-15 USD from Aliexpress. It is a good solution... until u bought a PSU... Had many bullshit in this video, but fair enough, interesting !
This just exemplifies how the world has changed. Technology is affordable and within the reach of just about anyone. Now, it's only a question of what new innovations will come out of this environment. And I would venture to say the greatest innovations will come out of the emerging and third-world countries where innovations and "make do" adaptations are a necessity.
0:47 they are heavy because they are linear power supplies. Yours is switching power supply (SMPS) so it is lighter. Both types have their own advantages and disadvantages. For example, linear power supplies produce less noise so they are preferred for sensitive analog circuits, audio amplifiers.
I love this bench PSU. I liked the beginning explanation up until the shock diote. From this point on, we all might appreciate each step explained as each step before.
Wow you actually come up with this idea years ago (I have reinvented one of those recently) I used a different step up/down convertor since that is cheaper. and I opted for USB-C rather than AC input since AC to DC power supply is not that elegant and I already have a handful of usbc charger around. But I guess now you can just make the power supply as a module of your power bank? That would be really nice to have.
@@theUsesOFnot To make it safer? Well, for starters, I wouldn't be using a 3D printed enclosure! Its a nice design, but if it wasn't full of holes already, it would be soon enough... How was it made? With Heat. What generates a shitload of heat even when it operates normally? A Power Supply! Seems counter-intuitive to use homespun plastic to enclose high voltage/high heat projects, doesn't it? How reliable are those plastic screw posts that hold down that heavy power transformer when he drops the unit and doesn't check it because he sees no external damage? Remember, this plastic is not the same plastic they use to make your practically indestructible power tools! In his place, I'd use a metal case, ground it properly, and learn how to use a damn soldering iron to avoid dangerously resistive cold-solder joints! ;-) To the question of fuses, no additional protection is required here. There is already a fuse on the PSU board right behind the green AC input terminals that he removed. And the front unit that controls everything already has all the necessary safeguards one would expect it to have. I suppose that If the PSU fuse blows too often, you could always choose to mount it externally, but I don't believe it would be necessary. Sorry, for the long reply, and for assuming it was a general question to anyone. ;-)
@@robertcartier5088 LOL. k tho. I feel like if a power supply is heating the case to be the ~200degrees that 3d printers heat the filament to when printing, you have another issue. xD thanks tho
I like how you manage to get so much stuff into a small space in a nice enclosure. Well done! However, you should really look into how to make better, more reliable connections, especially for the mains wiring. You should always use proper crimp connectors for that. Frankly, the way you did it, I wouldn´t trust that thing in the slightest. On top of that, those chinese mains power supplies of that type are very unsafe as is. I´ve had an almost identical supply short the AC mains to the output WITHOUT tripping any protection. I was lucky I didn´t touch it with my fingers.
@@jamiehardt3061 or perhaps at least shoot a glue gun around parts of it.. IMO .. but i'm far from an expert !!! But overall I think it's an excellent video and i'm going to built it and order parts tomorrow morning.!!!
i never understood why you people in the us always use crimps. never seen a single person outside of the us be so paranoid about soldering mains wires to a psu. I still wouldn't completely trust that thing because of how cold the solder joints were, but if it were properly soldered I wouldn't mind it at all.
@@somedude2492 It is because a crimped connection provides better mechanical stability than a soldered connection can. When you solder a wire, solder wicks up into the strands and creates a very brittle zone. This area can be easily snapped off with even heavier wires. Second, a crimped connection does not create tin whiskers and short out components, like happened in the Apollo mission that killed it's crew. Further, crimped connections are more resistant to chemical attack and corrosion than solder, because solder forms a galvanic cell with the wire. I think you should try it out, and actually compare well made crimps to well made solder joints. They both have advantages, and understanding them will help you understand where they are used most.
If you have a single roll of filament to print the plates with: try painting the whole plate and sanding the surface over a flat sheet of abrasive. this will leave the inwards embossed text painted.
Nicely done job! But let's admit: the price per unit is much higher than you were referring to in the video: just the parts cost about $80, add filament, labor and other little things and it's price jumps over several hundreds (mostly because of labor :)
When it's a hobby labour is free. But point in fact, when it's a hobby labour has a negative value. That is, it's a form of entertainment that you are paying for.
Everyone is complaining about the soldering technique, I fully agree and was apprehensive to say anything. I was appalled at the soldering technique, soldering is the most important part of electronics assembly.
Good idea to assembly circuits out of the shell in a box that fit your needs. a couple of hints: add a fusebox to cover the hivoltage cord AND in another place the outputs in case of a short of the load, in an accesssible side to blast em in case of failure; add a layer of insulation using a shrink tube on 220 terminal. use color coded wire inside to know what wire is carring what. Due it's a tool to be moved , fix condensers and other big elements with hot glue (couse on transportation\ accidentally falls those boards arent assembled and builded for a mobile use). on terminals connection glue is not a solution : prepare a pcb board, and use it (with addictional screws) to add mechanical resistance otherwise in frequent use those terminal will unglue form the chassis. best regards!
I REALLY want to build this! I'm learning on a arduino board and I build drones and rc stuff also working on automotive wiring and I'm excited to expand my knowledge and abilities!
Great work sir , but I prefer laser cut metal case because I want to release the heat and applied the case as a ground to protect some noise emission :)
In reality, neither the concept or the design of this supply is in any way original, and there is also nothing at all complicated about. Not even any math or calculation was required. Just connected together a few pre-designed/manufactured (off the shelf) power supplies, and throw them together into a case. Certainly useful as a demonstration, but congratulations for "great work" is far too much praise given the total lack of original design here. Might as well congratulate somebody for plugging in a USB cable. Still, this is a valuable suggestion for how to make a useful general purpose power supply.
These colours are correct for the old 3 phase and neutral 240/415V (now nominally 230/400V). Colours were harmonised with European colours in the 17th edition of BS7671. Single phase flexible cord is as per Adam Bryant.
I like this a lot but I'm concerned about some of your soldering connections, especially the high current connections, like on the switches where you just tacked the wire to the terminal without wrapping it through the hole, and where the power leads are just tacked into the circuit board instead of soldered through the holes where the terminals used to be. I know everything is contained and there's not a lot of strain but a good mechanical connection will improve the life of your soldered terminations.
Wow this is amazing! I'm envious of that power supply but I can't really justify the cost as I already have two simpler ones (cc&cv, no power setting etc)
Why not use the AC input cable with the plug attached? Seems like a more correct approach to have a disconnectable mains power supply cable... It is understandable to omit the facility due size/packaging constraints, but a 3-bladed AC-input socket on a bench power supply would hardly take that much more space, no?
Dude - parts list, 3D print, laser cut, and blueprints - that is the way EVERYONE should be doing their tutorials - really good job!!
Sure, as if anyone has a 3d printer at home.
@@ciprianpopa1503 3D printers are really affordable these days... I got one for £180 and it is great
@@ciprianpopa1503there are also some companies that can print whatever file you send to them. Usually that's at an affordable price
Literally has a blueprint to hand cut it...
At the current moment this project is 100% not worth making - because you can buy 60v 5A power supply at a cost 2-3 times less than this DIY device.
I'm 62 years old, retired, and been working with electronics since tubes were in fashion. I really enjoyed this video. While I can afford a ready-made power supply, you've inspired me to make my own variable voltage supply. Thanks!
Could you guide me in doing my project?
Omg, I'm literally just printing your 18650 powerbank the whole day! Specially bought an ender 3 to make this project. I'm really excited to make this one too in the future. Love the way you explain everything and make it available for everyone to make. Thanks and keep up the good work!
@@Solipsfilm de ender 3 is een geweldige 3D printer. kijk online voor mods om het nog beter te maken!
For some reason I cant download the file on thingiverse?
Future youtubers take note - this is how a tutorial is done. My compliments. Awesome video.
Your channel is awesome. Step by step instructions, parts list, script, models, and documentation? You've created the perfect place online to learn and follow along.
Hey I love how straight forward you explain everything. The problem is usually people will overcomplicate it or dumb it down so much the video is just too long. Right exactly my speed. Which is interesting because you're clearly well beyond my capabilities given how you design these things. Looking forward to that Positron 2.0
Outstanding. The best teaching video I've seen of its type. That comes from a guy who taught for 37 years.
Some picky stuff, sure.
A diode should protect all the DC inputs and outputs. People screw up wiring barrel jacks and such all the time. Think about a smoothing cap right at the binding posts. Do some ripple tests and work out your optimum capacity.
The mains termination to the board really needs to be mechanical. Solder and hot glue aren't enough.
I'd add a set of USB sockets to both input and output sides. Use diodes here again.
As in all designs, things would change a little if you had an industrial style review meeting or committee. Someday, you will be running one of those if you keep going.
I can't find a Patreon account for you. If you have one, please let me know.
I would be interested in purchasing your boxes or even kits. Let me know if you are interested.
You're a star kid. Keep it up.
This is the best DIY Power Supply video I've seen on UA-cam. You can tell you put a lot of time and work into it thank you.
Nice build, may I suggest using a thermal speed controller for the fan instead of a switch or just auto full on. This way you prolong the life of the fan and also have the appropriate speed to match the temperature needed to be cooled.
Edit**
I am looking to do something similar with a toroidal transformer that has 2 suitable secondary windings that will give me a 5v Fast Charge USB and 2x 12v outputs as well as two additional windings (with on/off switches of course) to use as a dual variable supplies
The fan idea sounds smart. How would you do it if you made this modification?
Good job, I think you will find holding the soldering iron still will give better results and better heat transfer.
Thank you, I live off grid in Hawaii. I have been going crazy trying to find one that I could run off my DC system. I was dreeding the thought of converting DC to AC so I could power a DC power supply. I have just gotten by using whichever old phone charger that came closest to the current need. I'll be doing this tomorrow, Mahalo Brah , your a Champ.
This is an awesome build. I think a flip down handle underneath so you could flip it down angling the box/screen upward for easier viewing. Just a thought.
Dude, I really liked this video. You took great pains to explain every step which I really appreciate. Meticulously executed - well done!
Very informative, I love that you seem to have done all the difficulty out of finding a decent way to make a power supply that has some awesome features. Thanks for your video!
So glad to see you start up your videos again.. keep them coming ...we love em.
Your projects are cool as hell....but your soldering technique is genuinely terrifying.
I was also worried about it.
His soldering technique is worst commercial product level.
I see this so much of the time anymore, don't they teach soldering in electronics programs anymore?
@@ReneStover I have no idea. I mean, i only did electronics in high school, so i can only speak for that.. almost 20 years ago... they taught me to solder correctly. I've only gotten better at it since then. I don't know if they cover soldering in high school anymore, or college, or vocational school....maybe they do, maybe this guy was taught how to do it right, but doesn't care, or sucks at it..
Or maybe he's self taught, and learned how to solder from watching some tit on youtube do it wrong. I honestly have no idea. What i do know for sure is that his soldering technique is genuinely terrifying.
Soldering don't come much worse than that. ;)
The solder job at 8:49 was horrendous, although some of the other joints were not QUITE so bad. Some of the soldering footage was at 2x speed though, so it looks like he withdraws the iron too early but may not be quite as bad as it seems. (Still, I agree, the results are not fabulous by any means. This is a problem when working with mains, earthing, etc...)
I watched all your videos today and subscribed!!!
听口音应该是华人吧？真心佩服，加油！期待更多视频！
4:06 uk colour code is
Live= brown
Neutral= blue
Earth= green/yellow
Just check the connections with a continuity tester.
This project came to be because I wanted a portable, accurate and versatile power supply, and nothing online satisfied my needs. I hope this video can help some of you to make your own in case you need a solution like this. Feel free to ask me any questions in the comments. I will try to answer them to the best of my abilities.
Man, every video of yours is like birthday to me. I am 15, I watched your power bank vid like 50 times already and now I am going to build it. I learned so much from your videos and electronics is my new passion. Thank you
nice work sir, thanks for the parts list :)
sir,The 3D print file can be share?
Hey man oh, I've been looking for the same thing for a very long time. Thank you so much for providing this. I still plan on designing my own version but I'm very proud that somebody has finally made something this elegant with the technology available to us. I wish you the best and I can't wait for the next one
@@ruolanace5241 Both google drive link and Thingiverse links are now active.
Great work! Also use a mosfet for reverse polarity protection from the DC input as that is much better than having a blown diode or damaged battery 😅.
You need to improve your soldering. I saw many cold solder joints on your video. Soldering iron tip should touch to the legs 1-2 seconds more after you pull out the solder.
Yes, and heat ALL parts of the joint, NOT just the top item, and then flow the solder into the joint. Almost every solder joint shown in this video is appallingly poor. Anyone dealing with electronics should have far better soldering skills than what is demonstrated in this video.
That's why the hot glue is used, right?? :P
@Blondie SL I have seen this design a few times, do not believe it is his.. They might have done a few tweaks but sure it is stolen from the internet..
That’s what I was thinking. The soldering iron’s job is to heat the components so thay *they* melt the solder causing the joint to be “wet”, not to melt the solder directly. Considering that there are a lot of high-current connections here (and that this is a portable power supply) , good solder joints are essential.
I was taught: "Don't paint." Don't use the soldering iron like a paint brush. If you have to "paint" the solder on, you're doing it wrong. Let it flow. If it doesn't flow, use more flux. Still doesn't flow? More heat.
How to solder a 20amp Diode : HOLD THE GOT DAMN IRON ON IT UNTIL IT GETS HOT ENOUGH AND SOLDER *FLOWS* onto the leads (2-4 seconds)
that being said i was VERY impressed by how you desoldered that SMD LED , i couldnt do that if i tried :D
Forthereg M if you have a chisel tip that is big enough and don’t need the SMD LED, just slap the iron on both pads
Doesn't take much - big blob of solder on the iron tip, touch the LED, pull it off. Most of them time they're even salvageable, but not necessary for this.
This channel deserves SO MUCH MORE attention! Great projects, well explained, so much effort! Just thank you m8!
If I might offer a suggestion, spacing the banana jacks by .75" will enable the use of industry-standard two-conductor leads. It looks like they may be a tad farther apart.
Three things: great project, mad props for using standard units instead of metric, and for Proverbs 9:10. Major thumbs up from me.
I'd build one of these if I had a printer. I have needed a DC power source before while diagnosing electronics.
I feel like id back anything you make on kickstarter my man. Keep up the good work
You're a great creator. Every time is see one of your vids pop up in my feed it's a welcomed surprise.
Yes! Another Video from Kralyn. I love all of your projects so please keep it up! Especially your powerbank was really cool.
This is a fantastic video! Really nicely done. Although, I highly doubt you saved any money by doing it yourself, the fun was probably worth it.
Can I say that in the UK we did use red live, Black neutral, Green earth, but we converted to European colours years ago? Brown live, blue neutral, green earth in our plugs, & all mains operated items, have to come from the manufacturer with plug wired, I believe. Good video, I like it.
“You are amazing, just keep going bro
Great fabrication, really enjoyed your process, and design. I've got the drok equivalent, (almost) and now, can realize how to actually maximize it due to what you have done. Thank you.
The power supply that you made is awesome and actually the biggest advantage is the dc input . Thanks for the project.
I think that I have to make a new power supply .
👍👍👍👍
You should at least learn how to solder before designing a mains powered device, learn about reliable connections and how to connect the mains earth without being a safety hazard. Then think about the mechanical stability of your casing before you switch on your EMI/Ripple generator.
At all it visually looks nice and many considerations went into this project. So thank you for showing this off.
Agree. It is scary at times. It seems more like 'tacking' than soldering. And, like you said, no mechanical bond. and like you alluded to the connection seems ill-suited for mains or high current..
I finished building this PSU today and I have to say that it is really awesome but I installed an BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 12v Fan to cool the entire thing more efficient.
If you want to get a 3D printer that is cheap and easy to repair, then I recommend the Creality Ender 3 pro. I bought this printer for 120$ from ebay and it just worked fine, after I printed 3D upgrade parts to improve the 3D printing capabilities with this printer.
Overall the kid did a fair job with the video. What amazes me are the self absorbed guru's out there trying to nit-pick what ever they can to make themselves feel good for not being able to accomplish anything equal to or better.
You're finally back! Hello and welcome!🙂
Nice build!
A comment from this guy tells a lot 🔥
The man himself
Just what I was looking for a week, thanks!
Bravissimo!! Complimenti per la costruzione. Un solo consiglio.... controlla la tecnica delle saldature!!!!!!
Great video, and thank you for the case design! Everything looks great.
Good video, you teach me lots of things. If you just buy, you don't learn much, and are not sure if all the safety features are in place.
Your engineering skills and creativity are inspiring to watch. I definitely enjoy the videos where you explain better than the ones with words on the screen and music. Well done!
Nice project! Warning though - your XT60 connector is the wrong one for the output DC - you could short that connection with a screwdriver or small piece of wire, LED leg, resistor wire etc that may fly in there. Safer to have DC out of a MALE XT60 as you can't easily bridge it. 👌🏻
Oh Boy, I am glad to see this video, i was just the other day debating to build me a CC / CV bench power supply.. but i was going to build it with 2N3055 Transistors. but now that i see this one, it will be much easier and efficient.
i watched all ua videos.. u r really an amazing guy...simply genious..
Because he can solder together fine made done modules ? :"D
Pls... check GreatScott and think about it again...
I mean... this is not bad, but nothing special, except the 3D printed housing, everything else is known stuff long time ago... i had a buck boost converter almost the same, but better version (because it is not just Buck Converter) and had a better Displayed controll board...
All was 10-15 USD from Aliexpress.
It is a good solution... until u bought a PSU...
Had many bullshit in this video, but fair enough, interesting !
This just exemplifies how the world has changed. Technology is affordable and within the reach of just about anyone. Now, it's only a question of what new innovations will come out of this environment. And I would venture to say the greatest innovations will come out of the emerging and third-world countries where innovations and "make do" adaptations are a necessity.
0:47 they are heavy because they are linear power supplies. Yours is switching power supply (SMPS) so it is lighter. Both types have their own advantages and disadvantages. For example, linear power supplies produce less noise so they are preferred for sensitive analog circuits, audio amplifiers.
This is a great video...I was just curious on why you didn't use a fuse in there to help protect everything?
I love this bench PSU. I liked the beginning explanation up until the shock diote. From this point on, we all might appreciate each step explained as each step before.
It is a Schottky diode but a power silicon diode will also work - it just has a higher voltage (0.6 versus 0.2)
Wow you actually come up with this idea years ago (I have reinvented one of those recently)
I used a different step up/down convertor since that is cheaper. and I opted for USB-C rather than AC input since AC to DC power supply is not that elegant and I already have a handful of usbc charger around.
But I guess now you can just make the power supply as a module of your power bank? That would be really nice to have.
great video and many thanks for all the additional information and links provided!
And not a single fuse was given that day.
Apart from buying better quality components, how can you make this PSU more safe?
Resistance is futile.
@@theUsesOFnot To make it safer? Well, for starters, I wouldn't be using a 3D printed enclosure! Its a nice design, but if it wasn't full of holes already, it would be soon enough... How was it made? With Heat. What generates a shitload of heat even when it operates normally? A Power Supply! Seems counter-intuitive to use homespun plastic to enclose high voltage/high heat projects, doesn't it? How reliable are those plastic screw posts that hold down that heavy power transformer when he drops the unit and doesn't check it because he sees no external damage? Remember, this plastic is not the same plastic they use to make your practically indestructible power tools!
In his place, I'd use a metal case, ground it properly, and learn how to use a damn soldering iron to avoid dangerously resistive cold-solder joints! ;-)
To the question of fuses, no additional protection is required here. There is already a fuse on the PSU board right behind the green AC input terminals that he removed. And the front unit that controls everything already has all the necessary safeguards one would expect it to have. I suppose that If the PSU fuse blows too often, you could always choose to mount it externally, but I don't believe it would be necessary.
Sorry, for the long reply, and for assuming it was a general question to anyone. ;-)
they run out the stock ahahahah
@@robertcartier5088 LOL. k tho. I feel like if a power supply is heating the case to be the ~200degrees that 3d printers heat the filament to when printing, you have another issue. xD thanks tho
A very inspiring project. My needs are a little different but this project gave me lots of ideas.
It is necessary to use rosin resin for soldering!
Nice! Very nice compact unit. Thanks for sharing!
Looks nicer then most of the small power supplies on the market. .
good work, in my opinion the best case by connectivity in UA-cam
I like how you manage to get so much stuff into a small space in a nice enclosure. Well done!
However, you should really look into how to make better, more reliable connections, especially for the mains wiring. You should always use proper crimp connectors for that. Frankly, the way you did it, I wouldn´t trust that thing in the slightest. On top of that, those chinese mains power supplies of that type are very unsafe as is. I´ve had an almost identical supply short the AC mains to the output WITHOUT tripping any protection. I was lucky I didn´t touch it with my fingers.
@@jamiehardt3061 or perhaps at least shoot a glue gun around parts of it.. IMO .. but i'm far from an expert !!! But overall I think it's an excellent video and i'm going to built it and order parts tomorrow morning.!!!
Ordered the parts and they are on the way ..Note: I ended up buying and finding all the parts for a lot less on EBAY than from Amazon.
i never understood why you people in the us always use crimps. never seen a single person outside of the us be so paranoid about soldering mains wires to a psu. I still wouldn't completely trust that thing because of how cold the solder joints were, but if it were properly soldered I wouldn't mind it at all.
@@somedude2492 It is because a crimped connection provides better mechanical stability than a soldered connection can. When you solder a wire, solder wicks up into the strands and creates a very brittle zone. This area can be easily snapped off with even heavier wires. Second, a crimped connection does not create tin whiskers and short out components, like happened in the Apollo mission that killed it's crew. Further, crimped connections are more resistant to chemical attack and corrosion than solder, because solder forms a galvanic cell with the wire. I think you should try it out, and actually compare well made crimps to well made solder joints. They both have advantages, and understanding them will help you understand where they are used most.
Great Project, very well explained walkthrough! Keep up the good work
You are the MAN! wish i had this vid last year, i couldve made a much better bench psu for myself. Def on my list to do soon
Please come out with more videos.. I love your type of work, Thank you!
If you have a single roll of filament to print the plates with: try painting the whole plate and sanding the surface over a flat sheet of abrasive.
this will leave the inwards embossed text painted.
Fantastic and clear step by step guide, thank you!
8:42 Ahhhhh! Why not pass the wire through the PCB correctly?
more concerned about 9:10
Oh man i hope you read all comments and you're improved your soldering technique.
You should have used an IEC receptacle rather than cutting the AC line cord. Incorporate mating for the receptacle into your 3D print and you're done.
I was going to say the same thing. could have been much cleaner, without the integrated power cord.
Also has a inline switch or sometimes even a fusing option. Also makes it easier when you move into a different coutry, just change the Cable, done.
Though you take time, your projects are perfect...
Nicely done job! But let's admit: the price per unit is much higher than you were referring to in the video: just the parts cost about $80, add filament, labor and other little things and it's price jumps over several hundreds (mostly because of labor :)
When it's a hobby labour is free. But point in fact, when it's a hobby labour has a negative value. That is, it's a form of entertainment that you are paying for.
oh man-so cool.will save for future project this fall or winter
why not use a 3 pin cable input instead of having the cable at the back?
That's what I was thinking.
cost saving?
my be because 3 kabel have fuse in side
9:33 Very well designed xD
The case is pulled in like paper.
8:15 - Man that really grinds my gears when people twist wires the wrong direction.
maybe you should find an outlet , like post some videos of your skills then, everyone a critic.lets see what you make.
hightechhippie It’s not that serious, bud. 👍
@@williams6550 Whats right and wrong in jointing wires? Its just a joint.
I love your channel...
Covers always looks clean
And diagram was awesome..
i really love it
and i know you encourage us to make one of this .thank you keep uploading video .
Everyone is complaining about the soldering technique, I fully agree and was apprehensive to say anything. I was appalled at the soldering technique, soldering is the most important part of electronics assembly.
you did a very fine job on this sir good job!
Such a great project! What is the clear gel used to protect (insulate) the connections?
you always make qualityful DIY video.
Outstanding, looks great thanks for all of your hard work!!!
The intelligence is not for many will be that the project will be sold someday ... very good goes my thumbs Marcos do BRASIL
I really like what you do. Worthy to follow
Good idea to assembly circuits out of the shell in a box that fit your needs. a couple of hints: add a fusebox to cover the hivoltage cord AND in another place the outputs in case of a short of the load, in an accesssible side to blast em in case of failure; add a layer of insulation using a shrink tube on 220 terminal.
use color coded wire inside to know what wire is carring what.
Due it's a tool to be moved , fix condensers and other big elements with hot glue (couse on transportation\ accidentally falls those boards arent assembled and builded for a mobile use).
on terminals connection glue is not a solution : prepare a pcb board, and use it (with addictional screws) to add mechanical resistance otherwise in frequent use those terminal will unglue form the chassis. best regards!
I REALLY want to build this! I'm learning on a arduino board and I build drones and rc stuff also working on automotive wiring and I'm excited to expand my knowledge and abilities!
WoW... Nice project! Hugs from Brazil. 🇧🇷
Great work sir , but I prefer laser cut metal case because I want to release the heat and applied the case as a ground to protect some noise emission :)
The best DiY power supply tutorial on the Tube...simply jaw dropping. Great work.
In reality, neither the concept or the design of this supply is in any way original, and there is also nothing at all complicated about. Not even any math or calculation was required. Just connected together a few pre-designed/manufactured (off the shelf) power supplies, and throw them together into a case. Certainly useful as a demonstration, but congratulations for "great work" is far too much praise given the total lack of original design here. Might as well congratulate somebody for plugging in a USB cable. Still, this is a valuable suggestion for how to make a useful general purpose power supply.
You don't instill confidence when at 1:22 the 5 watt resistor starts to turn red and you let the smoke out.
Please show a clear diagram. How to connect the elements step by step?
I really like the way you make great videos
4:09 DO NOT USE THIS CHART AS IT IS WRONG ESPECIALLY THE UK SECTION!
PE = GR/Ye
L1 = Brown,
N = Blue.
Just check the connections with a continuity tester.
it does say "OLD" colours.
@@No1sonuk They are not even the old colours
These colours are correct for the old 3 phase and neutral 240/415V (now nominally 230/400V). Colours were harmonised with European colours in the 17th edition of BS7671. Single phase flexible cord is as per Adam Bryant.
I like this a lot but I'm concerned about some of your soldering connections, especially the high current connections, like on the switches where you just tacked the wire to the terminal without wrapping it through the hole, and where the power leads are just tacked into the circuit board instead of soldered through the holes where the terminals used to be. I know everything is contained and there's not a lot of strain but a good mechanical connection will improve the life of your soldered terminations.
Totally agree. As you alluded to often the connections are Not suitable for high current
I'm concerned as well
Wow this is amazing! I'm envious of that power supply but I can't really justify the cost as I already have two simpler ones (cc&cv, no power setting etc)
Why not use the AC input cable with the plug attached? Seems like a more correct approach to have a disconnectable mains power supply cable... It is understandable to omit the facility due size/packaging constraints, but a 3-bladed AC-input socket on a bench power supply would hardly take that much more space, no?
I like your approach! Nice job!
Interesting..now i can use my knowledge on electronics.too bad i dont have experience on 3d printer.
He includes the 3D print files in the description. The hard part (designing in CAD) has already been done.
Just buy cheap project box on ebay or ali
You're a rockstar Kralyn! Thanks
This Guy Is A God/Genius..!!
Dude, Great work. You inspired me to make one.....