I know this video is older but GREAT JOB on explaining how the heater actually works. Hopefully now I can fix my own without having to call the pool people.
I owe you big man! had a company come by this morning and quoted me 1200-1500$ to fix it. after about 45min watching this video and working on it myself I got it to turn on and run. thank you for this helpful video! I cannot thank you enough
GOT IT!!!! Had the heater on, tried to pull the wire off the pressure switch and while I was wiggling it, the heater started. My heater is a Raypak, so not sure if it makes a difference, but if the pressure switch is not connected or working properly, jumping the wires will not turn the main burners on. Your video was a huge help. Thank you soooo much!
great video! I moved into a house 9 years ago with this old H200 Heater that was put in back in 2000. 22 years later, still running! In the past 9 years Ive lived here, I have had to do alot of diagnosing myself (every year I start it up I cross my fingers) As you pointed out - These millivolt heaters are pretty basic. If you get to know your system, checking wires for continuity, cleaning contacts can solve alot of issues. I have gone through a few thermopiles, and a pressure switch (replaced prior to seeing your video) I have gone through and replaced limit switches and the on/off switch (because they are easy and cheap) Just waiting for the heat exchanger to blow before I replace the whole thing...at that point, cost wouldnt make sense IMO. Thanks again for they great video on diagnosing and testing!
Cool! I really appreciate you making this video. You did well explaining what was what and walking us through the process. I also really like how you forgot to turn on the pump when checking the Thermopile. That was a realistic mistake that you did not edit out of the video and it left an impression on me to make sure I never do that! My only grievance is the low volume, but as you said, "new mic issues". I love how you showed us how to repair the pressure valve without replacing the entire piece. Thank you!!!
Thank you for the lesson. I was able to fix my 20 year old Raypak 185A millivolt pool heater with the information provided. A few new parts and it works great.
good vid. helped me with my epg 250. the jump is a bit different (far left contact goes to far right one), but still...it led me down the right path. my pressure switch turned out to be bad too. when I jumped it, my heater came on. instead of spending a few hundred on repairs, I got a 50 dollar pressure switch off amazon. great vid.
Thank you so much! Heater stopped working and checked the resistance on each safety and sure enough it was the pressure switch! Saved a couple hundred dollars because of your UA-cam video!!!
Thank you for this video! Saved me a couple hundred dollars. My problem was that the pressure switch on my Hayward H150 would not extend and switch to on. Using the jumper on the wires that connect to the switch worked initially but once I removed the jumper the gas valve would turn off. Had to replace that little electrical switch and the water pressure switch and then it worked normally. Thanks again!
Great video, thanks for all the tips. In my case it was the limit switch on the pressure sensing assembly. I found an electronics supply store nearby and bought a Honeywell replacement (V3-123-D8) for $4.50. I drilled out the rivet and used a 4-40x1" machine screw to hold it in place. It's working perfectly.
OMG thank you both!!! I haven't replaced it but the limit switch was the problem exactly like you said!!! Jumping it makes the thing work perfectly. Part ordered!!!
Great Video!! Much appreciated! Bought an H150 off my neighbor, and going to try the pressure switch. Replaced the thermocouple, just won't kick on now.
Jumper the switch(es) first. Disconnect the terminals and attach them together. This will tell you if it is the switch. Often times it is just corrosion on the contacts or the wires themselves
@@QuaabQueb Much appreciated! Just got a dremel and bits at Harbor Freight. Seems like it did the trick. It takes about 10+ min to start, but works. Is that start time right? Also, if I shut off and restart, takes about another 10 min. My pump has 2 speeds, wonder if i need to run the higher speed for the pressure switch? Thanks again for all help!!
Well done, located my problem within this video. Guess what- pressure switch!. You may want to advise customer jumps pressure switch momentarily to see if heater starts. Thanks!
Wow I read all the comments. You have helped so many people !! Thanks for posting this video !! I have a Hayward H150 and the pilot lights right away. My problem is that the burners don't like to come on right away and if they do, sometimes they will shut off after awhile and I can't get them to come on again. I haven't tested anything as I don't have a meter yet but I'll go buy one . I'll also replace the pressure switch. ( Thanks by the way...the pool place sold me the whole unit earlier today and charged me $89. I will return it and just buy a switch.) Anyways, before I start, any suggestions ? Thanks again for helping so many !!
Very helpful! It would be good if you could cover the thermostat and the copper tube and bulb that comes off of that. How does that work and can we easily diagnose it before just replacing it?
First, thank you for the greatest instructional videos on UA-cam. And your just doing it to help people out it’s awesome. Second, when I jump the th terminals after lighting pilot light, nothing happens, would the have to be a full gas valve replacement at that point?
I plan to work on those connections tomorrow. I do have two follow questions. Even though I can jump start the heater the thermopile or gas could still be faulty? If they are bad do you have videos for those repairs? Again, thanks for help!!!
Great video! I have a h400 that gives me LO error code, which is limit string open error . Is that the pressure switch? If so where do you get just the small switch and what is it called?
question, i bought a used hayward H100iD1 pool heater, the person i got it from was using it with propane, d i need a special kit to convert it to natural gas?
Great video and lots of helpful information. I have a Hayward H250 and tried turning system on for spa but it gave me an IF code and service light came on...one thing I should mention is that it had been pouring with high winds for days, which I wonder if that would have anything to do with this problem. Would you be able to give me any advice? Thanks, Nev
Neven Petrov, CSA hey, thanks, you mus have the model with dual pool/spa and electronic control. Try cleaning it out and checking the circuits to make sure nothing is fried
I actually just changed the thermopile, as I was not getting the proper voltage. Now I am getting the proper voltage, but still cant get the main burners to come on. I jumpered the TH to a T and like before, you hear a click but the burners do not come on and this again puts the pilot light out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
@queb, awesome video! Thank you!! 1) I jumped the terminal as instructed and it started right up, and then obviously when I took the jumper wire off, it turned off. Does this tell me the pressure switch is bad? 2) I tried to jump again with jumper wires and now it won’t turn on at all. Why might that be? - It randomly turned on for 5 minutes after trying to jump again, but the second I barely touch the thermostat control knob, it shuts right down! It makes a loud whistling noise the entire time it’s running.
I have a propane one of these. The gas valve knob is really hard to turn. Works ok but I have to use a crescent wren to switch from pilot position to on position. I do push down it it when moving it’s just really sticky. I used to be able to do it by hand but not anymore. Any idea if that can be taken apart and cleaned or oiled/greased?
Thank you for this very detailed video! Hayward h200 If I jump to turn on and it kicks on, what could it be? All the switches including pressure switch reads continuity, is it the adjustable temperature sensor that's malfunctioning?
Awesome video. Pilot lights on and all the switches and sensors have 410 milivolts. When I jumper the valve it lights. The black wire that comes down from the thermostat has 410 milivolts. But when I plug it back into the valve and measure the voltage at contact it only measure 11 milivolts on the connector and the contact on the TH side. With everything hooked up I can jumper the valve and it will light as stay lit as long as the thermostat is turned up. When I turn the thermostat down it goes off like it’s suppose to. But it will not relight if I turn the thermostat up again, it had to be jumpered. So not sure what’s cause the voltage to drop once it connected to the the TH terminal. I did put on a new connector on the black wire and sanded down the contact. Anyways any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Awesome Video..very nice. When I jumper the two TH wires, I hear a click but it puts out my pilot flame each and every time. Does that mean my thermopile is gone? Thanks in advance to anyone..much appreciated.
Great video, thanks for sharing your experiences. Question.. I have a different model, Laars Lite 2 and wanted to jump the connections to see if will start. Specifically which two did you connect on yours? Just want to do it right the first time. Thanks!!
Yes, that works - started right up! When I then take off the jumper the unit continues to operate. If I shut off with the power switch, the unit shuts down as expected. If I try to start via power switch it fails again. Jumper again, works. I've narrowed it down to the thermostat or it could be the water line connection to the pressure switch, as my pressure switch I replaced yesterday.
Chris M yes mine does the same thing some times. I believe it is either the thermostat or the thermopile on it's way out. If I turn the thermostat knob back and forth past the point where it ticks some times that gets it to go on. But most of the time I have to jumper it aswell to get it to fire
Great video! Maybe you can help me with my issue. I converted my heater from propane to natural gas and now it barely warm my hut tub after on for hours. It worked fine for a week or so. The tub would take 15 to 30min to get supper warm, now it won't get close to that temperature. The gas line (sizing) into the heater all check out fine. The valves was change to natural gas along with the orfus. Any ideas?
I have a 12 year old H150,not many problems over the years & what problems it had is stuff i could fix my self.It's really an efficient heater,like it heats my 18' round in no time... 4 hours or less.Take care of it,clean it,check it,cover it in winter,vacuum it,clean the orifices.. & with the help of videos like this it will be reliable & last for a long time,the only complaint is the installers didn't make a sediment trap & no union inside like this one..getting the valve out some day is going to be complete reverse engineering.& an undertaking
Video Québec It's code here, NE Illinois NW Chicago burbs.Installer took the easy out & so did the city inspector..if he even noticed..he was really bent out of shape on the interior door alarm leading to the back yard but not this..I looked at it this morning 1/2 thinking about doin the trap & union…& did I really want to open that can of worms ? nope ! next spring, pre pool opening.Thanks for the vid !
Tjfreak Lol Yeah good idea, "If it a'int broke, don't try to fix it" Realistically it's not a huge issue, and will not affect the operation of the unit. You could probably just lave it be till the day you change out the equipment, if that is to even ever happen.
thanks for everything bro, just another question: the gas pipe line and regulator on the gas tank, any advice of how big it hhas to be and how many psi on the regulator, btw i have this version but the 400.000btu one
Ryan Anderson any electronics store that stocks microelectronics parts (not stores like bestbuy futureshop) you can also look on ebay, but in the past I have just pulled them out of things like water coolers, power tools etc...
Great video! One question....I have electronic ignition H300ed2 .....I have to press button to go from ‘standby’ to ‘heat’ twice before heater fires up, once on works perfect. Takes about 30 seconds to kick on.....any help to why? Thanks in advance!
Frank Maduri Could be, remove the the two connectors from the switch on your thermostat, turn the knob until you hear it click, and test with a multi-meter like I did, also if you don't have a multi-meter that measures continuity you can simply use a small battery and and small light bulb to make a simple test circuit broken by the switch you are testing. Never leave your heater unsupervised when it is operating with the terminals jumped, because all safety switches are bypassed.
Thank you so much for the video. Great job! My question: I have the H400 (very similar to yours) which has two lights on the front. My heater is not millivolt it is electric and I use propane not natural gas... it has 1 light to show the unit is getting power (which should be constantly on...) and another light that lights up when the unit is running. My heater is definitely getting power from the circuit as I have confirmed it, but for some reason the unit is not getting power all the time. It seems to work some days and not other days. The lights are dark and then I can't light it and then randomly...the next day two later it will have lights and work fine. Sometimes it will even be fine in the morning and light up and then while it is running it will shut off and then I can't get it going again because it has no power. Any ideas? What to check? what could be so intermittent. No wires seem loose in any way either. THANK YOU for the help.
Hi there, I have seen those but never worked on them personally, when you see that it seems to be off, check it and test to make sure if it is getting power, then check the low voltage side of the transformer that is giving power to the gas valve. Most likely a bad power supply. Basically it takes 220 or 110 from your main circuit and then drops it to something lower like 12 or 24v possibly DC, so check the power supply and confirm it is putting out the correct voltage.
Thank you so much for the response. I am pretty I have a bad transformer after putting the multimeter on the case...I will order that part and install. The symptoms have changed a little: Now the heater shows it is getting power and has a light on, but then when I go to start it and the heater clicks and then loses power. So I think the transformer is not giving enough power to ignite the spark. thanks again
Hi there, great video. I have the same heater that you have. My heater, the pilot light automatically goes out from time to time. I would say 1-3 times per week. I have to ALWAYS check to see if the heater is on or off. Kinda frustrating when the pool party is about to start and everybody jumps in freezing their tail off. What do you think the problem is? Thank you.
great video man, this might be a silky question but where do I bring in my 120 v wires to bring power to the unit. I have the very same unit that's in the video. Thanks for the video
+Francis Briere Glad I can provide some insight. The one I have here does not require any external power. There are some models that have a powered gas valve, usually by 24V, you bring in 120V to the power board, if you have one it would be obvious.
I have a Hayward h200 and the pilot stays lit and all the safeties are closed but the gas valve will not open unless I put a jumper on it. I have 437 millivolts on the flame sensor. Any idea?
question, i bought a used hayward H100iD1 pool heater, the person i got it from was using it with propane, do i need a special kit to convert it to natural gas?
The mount that holds the switch detached from the pressure valve. Switch is fine heater fires when switch is pressed. I'm about to clean it up a bit and JB Weld the bracket back on to the pressure side. Is that going to work for me or do I need to order the whole thing and replace?
Great video. Your video helped me determine my pressure switch was bad on my H 300...it had no continuity. I did replace it. I now have continuity. However, heater still won’t start. The thermopile is generating power at 525 millivolts. I am able to fire the heater by jump starting the pilot valve/generator. The thermostat, on/off switch and all the limiter switches have continuity. I may have switched the terminal connections on the two wire connectors for the pressure switch. I did switch them back and forth while testing/diagnosing but heater does not fire. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Thank you for your response. I did clean all the contacts behind the front cover using a dremel. I did not do the high limit contacts connected to the header since they looked clean. I’ll clean those and see if it fires up. Thanks again.
@@markedwards2378 No problem, you would be surprised how little corrosion can cause it not to complete the circuit. The other factor could be a weak or bad thermopile (part the pilot burns against to generate the small amount of current) or the entire gas valve assembly is on it's way out.
i have H2501 pool heater its work great but not turn off when it reach the temp. is it the problem with pressure switch can you give me you feedback & thanks for this video
ron123 The thermostat temperature is not exact, if you have it set really high it may never go off because your pool it to big and simply cannot get as hot as the max temperature on the thermostat. But if the thermostat is not turning the heater off at all, there is a problem with that component and you will need to repair or replace it, see my latest video where I change mine and show how it is done.
Great Video! Question though.. My pilot light lights on the first try much like yours.. however the pilot light will not stay lit. I disassembled the unit and cleaned the pilot end and ran a pipe cleaner through the line. Still no luck. Any recommendations? I held the pilot on and checked the mv to the gas valve itself and I'm getting 497mv. Thermopile bad? I have the H150 model.
Todd Stephenson Hey, yes most likely the thermopile/thermocoupler is bad or causing some kind of problem (there is actually only one in these units) Firstly make sure you are holding the knob down long enough on PILOT before turning it to the ON position, try holding the knob on pilot for at least 30 seconds to full minute before turning the knob to the ON position. It could also be that the thermo has been knocked off a bit and is not in the right position in the flame. 479Mv is a very good voltage, so I think maybe you are just not holding the knob on pilot long enough to generate enough current for the valve to stay open You can unscrew the thermocouple assembly from the controller and test it for an extended period of time, just be careful screwing and unscrewing it cause the threads are aluminium and if you cross thread them, its not going to be fun. It could also be the controller (main gas valve) has some kind of problem, but I doubt it.
Video Québec Okay sounds good. Thanks for the information. I have tried well beyond 30 sec to a minute. I have even went as far as to have my wife time me for 3 minutes and still no luck. I don't want to put a ton of money into this unit but if it is something simple to fix... then fine. Where would I find the thermocouple controller?
Todd Stephenson Yeah in that case I say try replacing the thermo, shouldn't be hard to track down a part number from Hayward or RobertShaw/Honeywell. Check and see which control valve ("Gas manifold") you have, (If you have a H series similar to this one its most likely made by either RobertShaw or Honeywell) If you buy Hayward's part number (Hayward HAXPLT1931) it's probably going to cost you 5x times as much, and I believe you have to buy the entire assembly with the bracket, spark igniter and pilot tube. These control valves/gas manifolds are very similar between the equipment they are installed in (Hot water tanks, pool heaters, gas fire places, etc...) So you should be able to narrow down a generic part number for the the actual manufactures part and it wont be that expensive. If you cant narrow down the exact part just try to search for "millivolt thermopile" and find one that looks about the same size and has the same range of voltage rating. (Also I made a mistake, these thermopiles do not screw in to the controller with an aluminium tube, the simply screw on to the terminals with wires.)
Chargero I have an H200 that won’t fire on its own. The pilot stays lit and is generating about 490 Millivolts. I have continuity thru the on/off switch, the thermostat, the pressure switch, and all the hi-temp limiters. If I jump the 2 “THs” (the switch is on and the stat is turned up), the heater fires up. When I remove the jump, it stays fired up until I either back off the thermostat or switch it off. Again, it only fires with a jump. Thanks Leo
Yup same exact problem. It's corrosion somewhere on one of the contacts. It's just enough to cause resistance where the current cannot past. Don't forget we are dealing with extremely minimal amounts of current.
@@leospinelli8874 Mine test good, but if you wiggle the contacts or depress the switch rapidly you'll see it might fire. The issue is these things sit outside and moisture gets in and eventually corrodes everything. The proper thing to do is replace all of the switches and connectors, be sure to apply a generous coating of dielectric silicone grease to all connections to prevent corrosion. Don't use anything other than silicone
@@QuaabQueb Thanks. One last thing.😉 I would think that the unit would turn off once I remove the jumper between the THs, but it doesn't. Am I wrong about that?
I am fighting this heater right now. It works intermittently on then off. If I leave the circuit in tact the heater typically will not light under normal circumstances. If I jump the terminals it will start and sometimes remain running when I remove the jumper demonstrating that the circuit is closed. I can then pull and replace all the terminals to each switch and the heater will drop out and ignite as each lead is removed and reconnected. But when I leave it unattended for a period of time it will shut down. Also note. If I press down on the terminals on the gas valve the pilot will disengage. I feel like the gas valve is the issue with some type of a short or poor ground. Do you know if the terminals on the gas valve fail intermittently as I described? Thanks
Yup had the same problem. Turned out to be corrosion on the wires, however it can be the gas valve or thermocouple. Start with the cheaper parts before investing in a new gas valve.
Interesting to see the inside of the machine. Wish I was mechanically inclined. Have a question. Hayward says the heater is not supposed to be used in temps below 40 degrees. I honestly don't understand why not. Do you understand why?
Gas fired heaters or heat pump heaters? A gas fired or electric heater can be used in any temperature, they are what are used to heat pools in the winter. A heat pump, will not operate below a certain temperature because it works on thermal properties. See "how a heat pump works"
Gas fired heater. Hayward says their warranty is void if used below 40 F. I can live with the risk of doing without the warranty but I'd sure like to understand why using below 40 could cause a problem.
Hmm strange, the only thing that would possibly come to mind is depending on the model and capacity of the heater, and the size of the pool, if the temperature goes below a certain point the heater may not be able to bring the water up to temp fast enough and it could go below freezing damaging the heater. Lots of variables but "could" happen I guess. Most people do not have their pools running in those temperatures though.
My daughter has an H250 and I finally got the pilot lit after cleaning the bugs out. It started up and was running, then when I went to check it about 10 minutes later is had shut down. Cursory check of the connections seemed ok but will go back and check again. Any other thoughts? Hoping the gas valve is ok.
hey thanks for the video! question. my mom has a hayward h3501. prety old unit. she has not used it in about 7 years. would the same apply to the H350 unit as the 250. im worried the repairr man will jip me. another question is: we have 2 automatic switchen the turn when you push a button when sitting int he spa. it used to acitvate the blower. i noticed that her blower is gone and the wires leading to the motor that turn the water current are cut. there is also sign of a panel that used to hang ont he wall. U have any idea? thanks very informative video
Hey, yes they are all the same if it a millivolt system then it will be like I showed in the video, if not its probably electric which means it's even easier to repair. Millivolt means the pilot light burns up against a small metal thing that generates power to run the system, like I explained.. if its electric there will be a transformer that takes power form a line somewhere. Not sure what you mean by the spa blower... shoot a video and I can take a look at it. If you are not comfortable with gas and electricity dont touch it cause you can blow yourself up with this stuff. make sure the gas and power is off before going at it. Should you call a repair man make sure they are locally certified and accredited. If you have to pay, might as well pay a professional
I also have this same heater and just recently replaced the pilot and thermopile assembly because the pilot would not stay lit. The heater worked for 4 days until the heat exchanger burst and lost a bunch of water. Just replaced the heat exchanger last week but now when I light the pilot, it emits a 1.5 foot flame. What do you think is causing this? The gas control valve? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Seth Postma Holy crap, sounds like you are not having good luck with your unit. If your pilot flame is out of control there is defiantly a problem in the gas valve, I don't think there is a way to adjust the pilot flame on these units, it's usually set at the factory look up the model of your manifold/controller (usually Honeywell or RobertShaw) and see if there is a screw or something to adjust the pilot flame. Do be very careful especially if you attempt to re-light the flame because the duty of the pilot gas tube is to control the flame, if there is a problem and its letting out to much gas you risk blowing your self up, same reason why you NEVER attempt to re light a burner with the knob on the ON or RUN position. It should always be lit on PILOT as the gas is controlled. You will most likely need to change out the controller valve.
I'm getting an error code of "HS" which is a "water temperature sensing error" which by defination means that the inlet water tmp sensor is reporting a temp change at a rate faster than 6 degrees within 60 sec. The water temp currently is 69 degrees and when the hearter fires up the temp climbs up 70, 71, 72, 74 then kicks off. It will recycle 2 or 3 more times then shuts off. Any suggestions?
Ok I'll try in the morning which terminals do I put the probs on there is a a bunch of screws with wires there. And what voltage should it be putting out.
Ian Pitt-Taylor If you have a milivolt (no external power) system like I show here you should only have the 3 Make sure your meter is set to DC, if its not auto ranging set it to the lowest setting, Touch the probes to the first 2 terminals, you want to see at least 400-500mV
I have the h1501 model, very similar to this one. If i set mine to bypass it instantly kicks on and will run until it reaches its temp. Once it shuts off it will not kick back on. I pretty much have to tap the bypass with alligator clips every day. I read somewhere that if you tap the bypass and if it stays on then its not the sensors but if you have to keep the clips on in order for the bypass to work then its something with the sensors. any suggestions ?
I recently had a problem with my manifold gasket leaking and putting out my flame. I had that repaired and then replaced an electronic igniter (H250) I can now hear the igniter click but am not getting any propane flow. No propane smell. All gas supply valves are open. Could this be the pressure switch or is it more of a valve problem?
I am not familiar with the electric ignition models, but generally all gas fired appliances work similarly. Does it have a pilot light? If so can you verify it is lit. If not you should hear the gas hissing through the manifold or regulator very slightly when it tries to ignite. No gas flow at all would indicate a problem with the gas valve.
I just replaced a broken bypass last week, but now the heater won't start up. When I turn on the heater, the gas will come on for 2-3 seconds and then immediately shutoff; any idea what could be causing this? I was thinking it might be the switch from your video, I may have been rough with it when disconnecting the leads. Everything but the bypass was working fine, and I had no issues with ignition before replacing it.
Could be low pressure not causing the switch to fully click, or could be the switch went bad as you say. Do note you dont "need" a bypass unless you are exceeding the flow rate or pressure specified by the manufacturer. Take a multi-meter, set to continuity setting, and attach it to the leads of the switch, see if it makes contact when the pump is on. Alternatively if you do not have a multi-meter on hand you can use a small battery and a light to make a little test circuit.
I have an issue with my H250 that maybe you can help me with. I installed it 14 years ago and it is now lighting but only staying on for about 15 seconds or so and then turning off, it will relight after about 10 seconds and turn off again, never staying lit for more than 5-10 seconds. It will cycle over and over like this. I took out the flame sensor and cleaned it but that didn't do anything and I used a brush to clean out the 5 gas orifices. Unlike your's, mine is the electronic ignition with no pilot and it has separate spa and pool controls. other than that it should be the same. I am getting a lot of soot on the top cover and louver vents while it is lit so I was thinking maybe it the heat exchanger just needs cleaned and isn't getting a good air/gas mixture. If my pressure switch is bad, would it do the same thing as far as cycling repeatedly on and off, or would it just stay off? It is possible to have the copper tube clogged with something like DE (that happens with my filter pressure gauge a lot) and not function properly? If so could I just bypass the pressure sensor temporarily just to see if that's the issue? Maybe the soot is just there from it cycling over and over without ever getting a good burn. I've also read that maybe I have a bad ignition but wouldn't that just keep it from lighting at all? Thanks.
68nevets68 I have seen those units before, they are pretty much the same just more complicated, but the way they run and the problems you will encounter with them are pretty much the same... If it is cycling on and off it could be that there is air or something in the line, engaging and disengaging the pressure switch, watch it as it runs and see if you can see the little knob popping in and out on the switch, and see it clicking it on and off. If its that you have air in the line or the switch assembly is not working properly and your problem ends there once you remedy that. Also test the actual switch it self like I did because it could be that the diaphragm that engages the switch is working fine, but the contacts in the actual switch are wearing out. I had this problem with my thermostat. The switch would work but the unit would shut off randomly, and I would have to turn the thermostat knob back and forth to get it to come on. (see my newest video for all a bout that) It could be that DE or something has clogged it but I doubt that, the gauge is right on the filter itself so its more likely that some will get in there, if you are getting that much filter media back in to the return lines you have a serious problem with your filter. but again, see if you can seee the switch working, and test it to see if it is the problem first, the you can try and figure out what cause it. If your unit is installed outdoors in an relatively open space it should be getting more than enough combustion air (unless it is full of dirt and leaves inside) Soot build up in a gas heater like this is unusual unless something is burning up inside there, you should definitely clean out the soot, if you ever see soot build up on something in your home like a furnace or hot water heater it can mean something is backing up and be a CO risk. I'm not sure what could be causing that cause I have personally never seen or had to deal with it before. The heat exchanger is just a metal part that gets hot, as the water flows though it, it absorbs the heat and heats the water, you could have dirt and debris on it that is burning up and causing the soot. Pop the cover off and carefully brush and vacuum it out. If the pressure switch is working fine, and you tested the actual switch, it could be the flame censor is not positioned properly or it has gone bad and will need to be replaced, it could also be the power supply, or gas manifold it self is bad. These electric ignition units have a few more components and after 14 years things start to wear out, more so if you live in a warmer climate and use the heater more months of the year hope this helps... let me know how it goes
Hey there... great video. I got mine started by using your jumping method. right when I remove the jumper it turns off. I installed a new pressure switch(the whole unit is new) but still the same thing. Right now the only way I can heat my pool is to leave the jumper inline to have it run. Any ideas?
Lee Orphanos connect the 2 wires off the pressure switch till you get the new one just make sure your pool pump is running. And I wouldn't leave home with the heater running this way either.
thanks Chuck P! I already have the new one installed but the only way the unit will run is with the jumper on the millivolt as shown in the video. problem is not with the pressure switch as I did connect the 2 wires but it doesnt fire up unless I jumper the millivolt shown at 13;32 of the video.. any clue what else the problem could be?? have checked all things in the front panel and can't figure it out. Once it's running with the jumper for 30 mins and I remove the wire it stays going?? Problem is that I need to open the panel jumper the wires to get it going for half an hour then remove the jumper and put the panel back on... it's a pain but better than replacing the thing right now for sure.
awesome video my pilot light goes on...stays lit... then I flip the on switch, and turn the dial to my setting....but no flames appear under the unit like in your other video... Ive never started the unit before, it was already running fine for me last season when I bought the house... Do I need to do something to the gas feeds to get the lines opened? thanks
@@QuaabQueb do you mean the click sound that you got at 13:37 of this video? "click" and then the sound of gas? I dont hear any gas sound... I do hear a click when I move my thermostat dial
@@HeyStripes Yes exactly. That is the sound of the gas valve opening to allow gas to the burner. The click from the thermostat switch when you turn it is just the sound of the mechanical switch depressing. Note, even if you hear that clicking it does not mean it is actually making proper contact.
@@QuaabQueb I tapped on the gas lines with my screwdriver handle while thinking about what to do next and a whole bunch of dust came out.. so I tapped some more...lightly until all the dust stopped coming out... then tried again and held the pilot switch down for a whole minute to keep the pilot light on and voila it worked :)
@@QuaabQueb ok... new issue... I got it up and running by brushing the contacts and pipes...it ran for 2 days with no issue, then suddenly yesterday it stopped firing up... the pilot light was on but it wouldn't kick on.... any ideas?
In theory, if you bypass anything, would it stay on or will it eventually turn itself off? Asking because I believe one of the sensors is faulty. I can jump that sensor and it’ll turn on, however, after about 2-3min, the whole thing clicks off, including the pilot light.
My hayward rp2100 won't turn on. I jump the gas valve and it will turn on and run for 30 minutes and then turn off. If I keep the gas valve jumped it will keep running but wondering what the root cause is.
Hello, Can you tell me, I have an H150 series, can you tell me what the issue might be? The pilot turns on but when I let go of the valve push button (black) it turns off. Do know what the issue might be? Thank you.
I got the same pool heater like this. When my heater reaches to the desired temperature, it would shut off which is normal but it will never turn back on automatically unless I use a jumper cables on the TP and TH. Can you please help me with this issue? Thanks.
Would you have any idea why only two of my Three burners are alight {the left two }? Subsuquently not heating the water and then turning itself off after a couple of mins ..
I know this video is older but GREAT JOB on explaining how the heater actually works. Hopefully now I can fix my own without having to call the pool people.
I owe you big man! had a company come by this morning and quoted me 1200-1500$ to fix it. after about 45min watching this video and working on it myself I got it to turn on and run. thank you for this helpful video! I cannot thank you enough
GOT IT!!!! Had the heater on, tried to pull the wire off the pressure switch and while I was wiggling it, the heater started. My heater is a Raypak, so not sure if it makes a difference, but if the pressure switch is not connected or working properly, jumping the wires will not turn the main burners on. Your video was a huge help. Thank you soooo much!
great video! I moved into a house 9 years ago with this old H200 Heater that was put in back in 2000. 22 years later, still running! In the past 9 years Ive lived here, I have had to do alot of diagnosing myself (every year I start it up I cross my fingers) As you pointed out - These millivolt heaters are pretty basic. If you get to know your system, checking wires for continuity, cleaning contacts can solve alot of issues. I have gone through a few thermopiles, and a pressure switch (replaced prior to seeing your video) I have gone through and replaced limit switches and the on/off switch (because they are easy and cheap) Just waiting for the heat exchanger to blow before I replace the whole thing...at that point, cost wouldnt make sense IMO. Thanks again for they great video on diagnosing and testing!
Cool! I really appreciate you making this video. You did well explaining what was what and walking us through the process. I also really like how you forgot to turn on the pump when checking the Thermopile. That was a realistic mistake that you did not edit out of the video and it left an impression on me to make sure I never do that! My only grievance is the low volume, but as you said, "new mic issues". I love how you showed us how to repair the pressure valve without replacing the entire piece. Thank you!!!
Thank you for the kind words, glad it helped
Thank you for the lesson. I was able to fix my 20 year old Raypak 185A millivolt pool heater with the information provided. A few new parts and it works great.
good vid. helped me with my epg 250. the jump is a bit different (far left contact goes to far right one), but still...it led me down the right path. my pressure switch turned out to be bad too. when I jumped it, my heater came on. instead of spending a few hundred on repairs, I got a 50 dollar pressure switch off amazon. great vid.
really informative - good light - great jexplanations - thanks - love the old haywards
Thank you so much! Heater stopped working and checked the resistance on each safety and sure enough it was the pressure switch! Saved a couple hundred dollars because of your UA-cam video!!!
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video! Saved me a couple hundred dollars. My problem was that the pressure switch on my Hayward H150 would not extend and switch to on. Using the jumper on the wires that connect to the switch worked initially but once I removed the jumper the gas valve would turn off. Had to replace that little electrical switch and the water pressure switch and then it worked normally. Thanks again!
Glad it helped!
Great video, thanks for all the tips. In my case it was the limit switch on the pressure sensing assembly. I found an electronics supply store nearby and bought a Honeywell replacement (V3-123-D8) for $4.50. I drilled out the rivet and used a 4-40x1" machine screw to hold it in place. It's working perfectly.
Pete Tomaiuolo Glad you where able to use the info and repair yours.
OMG thank you both!!! I haven't replaced it but the limit switch was the problem exactly like you said!!! Jumping it makes the thing work perfectly. Part ordered!!!
Thank you for video - it was my pressure switch - you just saved me a service call!
Great video, very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to post this.
Another thanks! Contacts on the pressure switch were corroded. 5 min fix thanks to your video.
Huge help, my heater had corroded connections. Thanks for the video man!
Glad it helped
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time and creating this very informative video.
Great Video!! Much appreciated! Bought an H150 off my neighbor, and going to try the pressure switch. Replaced the thermocouple, just won't kick on now.
Jumper the switch(es) first. Disconnect the terminals and attach them together. This will tell you if it is the switch.
Often times it is just corrosion on the contacts or the wires themselves
@@QuaabQueb Much appreciated! Just got a dremel and bits at Harbor Freight. Seems like it did the trick. It takes about 10+ min to start, but works. Is that start time right? Also, if I shut off and restart, takes about another 10 min. My pump has 2 speeds, wonder if i need to run the higher speed for the pressure switch? Thanks again for all help!!
Thanks man..! I was able to at least turn on my heater through jump start.
Hey man, this is a terrific video for us who still have these dinosaurs. Second year in a row I used it.
Thank you madam. Glad it helped. These things are absolute tanks and are actually still made!
Thank you! Very helpful and thorough
Well done, located my problem within this video. Guess what- pressure switch!. You may want to advise customer jumps pressure switch momentarily to see if heater starts. Thanks!
Glad it helped.
Your video is the best explained, to the point, all bases covered video on this subject. Thanks for posting.
thanks!
Great video, lots of info. Thanks
Wow I read all the comments. You have helped so many people !! Thanks for posting this video !! I have a Hayward H150 and the pilot lights right away. My problem is that the burners don't like to come on right away and if they do, sometimes they will shut off after awhile and I can't get them to come on again. I haven't tested anything as I don't have a meter yet but I'll go buy one . I'll also replace the pressure switch. ( Thanks by the way...the pool place sold me the whole unit earlier today and charged me $89. I will return it and just buy a switch.) Anyways, before I start, any suggestions ? Thanks again for helping so many !!
Very helpful! It would be good if you could cover the thermostat and the copper tube and bulb that comes off of that. How does that work and can we easily diagnose it before just replacing it?
Thanks for the video it helped lots.
First, thank you for the greatest instructional videos on UA-cam. And your just doing it to help people out it’s awesome. Second, when I jump the th terminals after lighting pilot light, nothing happens, would the have to be a full gas valve replacement at that point?
Great video. Bravo my friend.
great info helped a lot
You are the man! Thanks for this helpful video.
Glad it helped
Helpful video. Thanks for posting.
I plan to work on those connections tomorrow. I do have two follow questions. Even though I can jump start the heater the thermopile or gas could still be faulty? If they are bad do you have videos for those repairs? Again, thanks for help!!!
I love the simplicity of it compared to the newest version
Thanx you saved me $500.
Great video! I have a h400 that gives me LO error code, which is limit string open error . Is that the pressure switch? If so where do you get just the small switch and what is it called?
question, i bought a used hayward H100iD1 pool heater, the person i got it from was using it with propane, d i need a special kit to convert it to natural gas?
Great video and lots of helpful information. I have a Hayward H250 and tried turning system on for spa but it gave me an IF code and service light came on...one thing I should mention is that it had been pouring with high winds for days, which I wonder if that would have anything to do with this problem. Would you be able to give me any advice? Thanks, Nev
Neven Petrov, CSA hey, thanks, you mus have the model with dual pool/spa and electronic control.
Try cleaning it out and checking the circuits to make sure nothing is fried
I actually just changed the thermopile, as I was not getting the proper voltage. Now I am getting the proper voltage, but still cant get the main burners to come on. I jumpered the TH to a T and like before, you hear a click but the burners do not come on and this again puts the pilot light out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
@queb, awesome video! Thank you!!
1) I jumped the terminal as instructed and it started right up, and then obviously when I took the jumper wire off, it turned off. Does this tell me the pressure switch is bad?
2) I tried to jump again with jumper wires and now it won’t turn on at all. Why might that be?
- It randomly turned on for 5 minutes after trying to jump again, but the second I barely touch the thermostat control knob, it shuts right down! It makes a loud whistling noise the entire time it’s running.
I love your commentary
Thank you. This was very informative. Et1
Hi I have a Raypak model P-R336A-EN_C and the code says ROL is this switch something the company left open when they opened pool for the year
Thanks for the info
I have a propane one of these. The gas valve knob is really hard to turn. Works ok but I have to use a crescent wren to switch from pilot position to on position. I do push down it it when moving it’s just really sticky. I used to be able to do it by hand but not anymore.
Any idea if that can be taken apart and cleaned or oiled/greased?
Thank you!
Thank you for this very detailed video! Hayward h200 If I jump to turn on and it kicks on, what could it be? All the switches including pressure switch reads continuity, is it the adjustable temperature sensor that's malfunctioning?
Yes could be that. it too is simply a switch. Bad wiring most likely. Something is corroded and not making good contact intermittently
Awesome video. Pilot lights on and all the switches and sensors have 410 milivolts. When I jumper the valve it lights. The black wire that comes down from the thermostat has 410 milivolts. But when I plug it back into the valve and measure the voltage at contact it only measure 11 milivolts on the connector and the contact on the TH side. With everything hooked up I can jumper the valve and it will light as stay lit as long as the thermostat is turned up. When I turn the thermostat down it goes off like it’s suppose to. But it will not relight if I turn the thermostat up again, it had to be jumpered. So not sure what’s cause the voltage to drop once it connected to the the TH terminal. I did put on a new connector on the black wire and sanded down the contact.
Anyways any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Awesome Video..very nice. When I jumper the two TH wires, I hear a click but it puts out my pilot flame each and every time. Does that mean my thermopile is gone? Thanks in advance to anyone..much appreciated.
The high limits should turn the heat off if there's no water flowing. Stove high limit is the one mounted above burner tubes.
Nice video
Thanks
Great video, thanks for sharing your experiences. Question.. I have a different model, Laars Lite 2 and wanted to jump the connections to see if will start. Specifically which two did you connect on yours? Just want to do it right the first time. Thanks!!
Chris M Usually it's the TH and TP terminals. Carefully cause some are 24V systems and have different terminals.
Yes, that works - started right up! When I then take off the jumper the unit continues to operate. If I shut off with the power switch, the unit shuts down as expected. If I try to start via power switch it fails again. Jumper again, works. I've narrowed it down to the thermostat or it could be the water line connection to the pressure switch, as my pressure switch I replaced yesterday.
Chris M yes mine does the same thing some times. I believe it is either the thermostat or the thermopile on it's way out.
If I turn the thermostat knob back and forth past the point where it ticks some times that gets it to go on. But most of the time I have to jumper it aswell to get it to fire
Great video! Maybe you can help me with my issue. I converted my heater from propane to natural gas and now it barely warm my hut tub after on for hours. It worked fine for a week or so. The tub would take 15 to 30min to get supper warm, now it won't get close to that temperature. The gas line (sizing) into the heater all check out fine.
The valves was change to natural gas along with the orfus. Any ideas?
I have a 12 year old H150,not many problems over the years & what problems it had is stuff i could fix my self.It's really an efficient heater,like it heats my 18' round in no time... 4 hours or less.Take care of it,clean it,check it,cover it in winter,vacuum it,clean the orifices.. & with the help of videos like this it will be reliable & last for a long time,the only complaint is the installers didn't make a sediment trap & no union inside like this one..getting the valve out some day is going to be complete reverse engineering.& an undertaking
Tjfreak Yes I agree, as for the installation union and sediment trap or drip T are a must, it's actually part of the code in most places.
Video Québec
It's code here, NE Illinois NW Chicago burbs.Installer took the easy out & so did the city inspector..if he even noticed..he was really bent out of shape on the interior door alarm leading to the back yard but not this..I looked at it this morning 1/2 thinking about doin the trap & union…& did I really want to open that can of worms ? nope ! next spring, pre pool opening.Thanks for the vid !
Tjfreak Lol Yeah good idea, "If it a'int broke, don't try to fix it"
Realistically it's not a huge issue, and will not affect the operation of the unit. You could probably just lave it be till the day you change out the equipment, if that is to even ever happen.
thanks for the video, where is a good place to buy parts for hayward?
i got h3001 and need to get a few things for it t-tat, roll out switch, igniter
Look online, otherwise from a pool store you will pay full price
Great video! Thank you! Do you have the link to the switches. Mine is bad. I can’t find just the switch.
Try and clean the contacts first, is it the micro-switch on the pressure switch assembly or one of the temperature limit switches ?
thanks for everything bro, just another question: the gas pipe line and regulator on the gas tank, any advice of how big it hhas to be and how many psi on the regulator, btw i have this version but the 400.000btu one
All of that can be found in the installation manual for your specific heater. It is available free online. (Google)
What with the hands get to the inside of my heater all ready
Thank you for your video. Where can I find the microswitch? I just tested mine and it is in fact bad like yours was in the video.
Ryan Anderson any electronics store that stocks microelectronics parts (not stores like bestbuy futureshop)
you can also look on ebay, but in the past I have just pulled them out of things like water coolers, power tools etc...
Great video! One question....I have electronic ignition H300ed2 .....I have to press button to go from ‘standby’ to ‘heat’ twice before heater fires up, once on works perfect. Takes about 30 seconds to kick on.....any help to why? Thanks in advance!
On those heaters I believe it is an electric ignition.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have to jump the th terminals in order to light the main burner, does this mean my thermostat is bad? Thanks
Frank Maduri Could be, remove the the two connectors from the switch on your thermostat, turn the knob until you hear it click, and test with a multi-meter like I did, also if you don't have a multi-meter that measures continuity you can simply use a small battery and and small light bulb to make a simple test circuit broken by the switch you are testing. Never leave your heater unsupervised when it is operating with the terminals jumped, because all safety switches are bypassed.
Thank you so much for the video. Great job!
My question: I have the H400 (very similar to yours) which has two lights on the front. My heater is not millivolt it is electric and I use propane not natural gas... it has 1 light to show the unit is getting power (which should be constantly on...) and another light that lights up when the unit is running. My heater is definitely getting power from the circuit as I have confirmed it, but for some reason the unit is not getting power all the time. It seems to work some days and not other days. The lights are dark and then I can't light it and then randomly...the next day two later it will have lights and work fine. Sometimes it will even be fine in the morning and light up and then while it is running it will shut off and then I can't get it going again because it has no power.
Any ideas? What to check? what could be so intermittent. No wires seem loose in any way either. THANK YOU for the help.
Hi there, I have seen those but never worked on them personally, when you see that it seems to be off, check it and test to make sure if it is getting power, then check the low voltage side of the transformer that is giving power to the gas valve. Most likely a bad power supply.
Basically it takes 220 or 110 from your main circuit and then drops it to something lower like 12 or 24v possibly DC, so check the power supply and confirm it is putting out the correct voltage.
Thank you so much for the response. I am pretty I have a bad transformer after putting the multimeter on the case...I will order that part and install. The symptoms have changed a little: Now the heater shows it is getting power and has a light on, but then when I go to start it and the heater clicks and then loses power. So I think the transformer is not giving enough power to ignite the spark. thanks again
Hi there, great video. I have the same heater that you have. My heater, the pilot light automatically goes out from time to time. I would say 1-3 times per week. I have to ALWAYS check to see if the heater is on or off. Kinda frustrating when the pool party is about to start and everybody jumps in freezing their tail off. What do you think the problem is? Thank you.
Could be a wind problem, or the thermopile is on it's way out and needs to be replaced.
+Video Québec you're right, the thermopile is pooched. Thank you so much!
great video man, this might be a silky question but where do I bring in my 120 v wires to bring power to the unit. I have the very same unit that's in the video. Thanks for the video
+Francis Briere Glad I can provide some insight.
The one I have here does not require any external power. There are some models that have a powered gas valve, usually by 24V, you bring in 120V to the power board, if you have one it would be obvious.
+Video Quebec
Thanks so much. You're very helpful
Glad the vid helped
I have a Hayward h200 and the pilot stays lit and all the safeties are closed but the gas valve will not open unless I put a jumper on it. I have 437 millivolts on the flame sensor. Any idea?
question, i bought a used hayward H100iD1 pool heater, the person i got it from was using it with propane, do i need a special kit to convert it to natural gas?
The_Godfather yes.
Awesome video - great work dude !!Thanks a lot
rspjr09 Glad to hear,
The mount that holds the switch detached from the pressure valve. Switch is fine heater fires when switch is pressed. I'm about to clean it up a bit and JB Weld the bracket back on to the pressure side. Is that going to work for me or do I need to order the whole thing and replace?
No you can just find some small screws that will fit
Great video. Your video helped me determine my pressure switch was bad on my H 300...it had no continuity. I did replace it. I now have continuity. However, heater still won’t start. The thermopile is generating power at 525 millivolts. I am able to fire the heater by jump starting the pilot valve/generator. The thermostat, on/off switch and all the limiter switches have continuity. I may have switched the terminal connections on the two wire connectors for the pressure switch. I did switch them back and forth while testing/diagnosing but heater does not fire. Any suggestions? Thanks.
It is some corrosion on a contact elsewhere
Thank you for your response. I did clean all the contacts behind the front cover using a dremel. I did not do the high limit contacts connected to the header since they looked clean. I’ll clean those and see if it fires up. Thanks again.
@@markedwards2378 No problem, you would be surprised how little corrosion can cause it not to complete the circuit. The other factor could be a weak or bad thermopile (part the pilot burns against to generate the small amount of current) or the entire gas valve assembly is on it's way out.
Awsome video! F bombs and all! Thanks man!
Thanks for the video!! Any ideas of my pilot lights but does not stay lit, however my thermocouple gets up to 45 milliamps. Thanks!!!
bmbertges yes, it could still be bad
Chargèro what could still be bad? The thermocouple??
Amigos cuál son las fallas frecuentes de esos calderos
i have H2501 pool heater its work great but not turn off when it reach the temp.
is it the problem with pressure switch can you give me you feedback & thanks for this video
ron123 The thermostat temperature is not exact, if you have it set really high it may never go off because your pool it to big and simply cannot get as hot as the max temperature on the thermostat.
But if the thermostat is not turning the heater off at all, there is a problem with that component and you will need to repair or replace it, see my latest video where I change mine and show how it is done.
Saved my ass. Thanks you!
Great Video! Question though.. My pilot light lights on the first try much like yours.. however the pilot light will not stay lit. I disassembled the unit and cleaned the pilot end and ran a pipe cleaner through the line. Still no luck. Any recommendations? I held the pilot on and checked the mv to the gas valve itself and I'm getting 497mv. Thermopile bad? I have the H150 model.
Todd Stephenson Hey, yes most likely the thermopile/thermocoupler is bad or causing some kind of problem (there is actually only one in these units) Firstly make sure you are holding the knob down long enough on PILOT before turning it to the ON position, try holding the knob on pilot for at least 30 seconds to full minute before turning the knob to the ON position. It could also be that the thermo has been knocked off a bit and is not in the right position in the flame. 479Mv is a very good voltage, so I think maybe you are just not holding the knob on pilot long enough to generate enough current for the valve to stay open
You can unscrew the thermocouple assembly from the controller and test it for an extended period of time, just be careful screwing and unscrewing it cause the threads are aluminium and if you cross thread them, its not going to be fun. It could also be the controller (main gas valve) has some kind of problem, but I doubt it.
Video Québec Okay sounds good. Thanks for the information. I have tried well beyond 30 sec to a minute. I have even went as far as to have my wife time me for 3 minutes and still no luck. I don't want to put a ton of money into this unit but if it is something simple to fix... then fine. Where would I find the thermocouple controller?
Todd Stephenson Yeah in that case I say try replacing the thermo, shouldn't be hard to track down a part number from Hayward or RobertShaw/Honeywell. Check and see which control valve ("Gas manifold") you have, (If you have a H series similar to this one its most likely made by either RobertShaw or Honeywell)
If you buy Hayward's part number (Hayward HAXPLT1931) it's probably going to cost you 5x times as much, and I believe you have to buy the entire assembly with the bracket, spark igniter and pilot tube.
These control valves/gas manifolds are very similar between the equipment they are installed in (Hot water tanks, pool heaters, gas fire places, etc...) So you should be able to narrow down a generic part number for the the actual manufactures part and it wont be that expensive.
If you cant narrow down the exact part just try to search for "millivolt thermopile" and find one that looks about the same size and has the same range of voltage rating. (Also I made a mistake, these thermopiles do not screw in to the controller with an aluminium tube, the simply screw on to the terminals with wires.)
Chargero
I have an H200 that won’t fire on its own.
The pilot stays lit and is generating about 490 Millivolts.
I have continuity thru the on/off switch, the thermostat, the pressure switch, and all the hi-temp limiters.
If I jump the 2 “THs” (the switch is on and the stat is turned up), the heater fires up. When I remove the jump, it stays fired up until I either back off the thermostat or switch it off.
Again, it only fires with a jump.
Thanks
Leo
Yup same exact problem. It's corrosion somewhere on one of the contacts. It's just enough to cause resistance where the current cannot past. Don't forget we are dealing with extremely minimal amounts of current.
@@QuaabQueb Thanks for the quick reply.
Do you think I can rule out the stat, on/off switch and pressure switch?
@@leospinelli8874 Mine test good, but if you wiggle the contacts or depress the switch rapidly you'll see it might fire. The issue is these things sit outside and moisture gets in and eventually corrodes everything.
The proper thing to do is replace all of the switches and connectors, be sure to apply a generous coating of dielectric silicone grease to all connections to prevent corrosion. Don't use anything other than silicone
@@QuaabQueb Thanks.
One last thing.😉
I would think that the unit would turn off once I remove the jumper between the THs, but it doesn't.
Am I wrong about that?
I am fighting this heater right now. It works intermittently on then off. If I leave the circuit in tact the heater typically will not light under normal circumstances. If I jump the terminals it will start and sometimes remain running when I remove the jumper demonstrating that the circuit is closed. I can then pull and replace all the terminals to each switch and the heater will drop out and ignite as each lead is removed and reconnected. But when I leave it unattended for a period of time it will shut down. Also note. If I press down on the terminals on the gas valve the pilot will disengage. I feel like the gas valve is the issue with some type of a short or poor ground. Do you know if the terminals on the gas valve fail intermittently as I described? Thanks
Yup had the same problem. Turned out to be corrosion on the wires, however it can be the gas valve or thermocouple. Start with the cheaper parts before investing in a new gas valve.
Talk about fuses and and show how all safety switch are in series
Interesting to see the inside of the machine. Wish I was mechanically inclined.
Have a question. Hayward says the heater is not supposed to be used in temps below 40 degrees. I honestly don't understand why not. Do you understand why?
Gas fired heaters or heat pump heaters?
A gas fired or electric heater can be used in any temperature, they are what are used to heat pools in the winter.
A heat pump, will not operate below a certain temperature because it works on thermal properties.
See "how a heat pump works"
Gas fired. They say it voids the warranty if used below 40.
Gas fired heater. Hayward says their warranty is void if used below 40 F. I can live with the risk of doing without the warranty but I'd sure like to understand why using below 40 could cause a problem.
Hmm strange, the only thing that would possibly come to mind is depending on the model and capacity of the heater, and the size of the pool, if the temperature goes below a certain point the heater may not be able to bring the water up to temp fast enough and it could go below freezing damaging the heater.
Lots of variables but "could" happen I guess. Most people do not have their pools running in those temperatures though.
My daughter has an H250 and I finally got the pilot lit after cleaning the bugs out. It started up and was running, then when I went to check it about 10 minutes later is had shut down. Cursory check of the connections seemed ok but will go back and check again. Any other thoughts? Hoping the gas valve is ok.
Bob Enas could be the thermostat, or the actual switch inside the thermostat. Take a look at the other video I made more recently
hey thanks for the video! question. my mom has a hayward h3501. prety old unit. she has not used it in about 7 years. would the same apply to the H350 unit as the 250. im worried the repairr man will jip me.
another question is: we have 2 automatic switchen the turn when you push a button when sitting int he spa. it used to acitvate the blower. i noticed that her blower is gone and the wires leading to the motor that turn the water current are cut. there is also sign of a panel that used to hang ont he wall. U have any idea? thanks very informative video
Hey, yes they are all the same if it a millivolt system then it will be like I showed in the video, if not its probably electric which means it's even easier to repair.
Millivolt means the pilot light burns up against a small metal thing that generates power to run the system, like I explained.. if its electric there will be a transformer that takes power form a line somewhere. Not sure what you mean by the spa blower... shoot a video and I can take a look at it.
If you are not comfortable with gas and electricity dont touch it cause you can blow yourself up with this stuff. make sure the gas and power is off before going at it.
Should you call a repair man make sure they are locally certified and accredited. If you have to pay, might as well pay a professional
I replaced the thermalpile in my Hayward H200 and tried to jump it. It does nothing.
I also have this same heater and just recently replaced the pilot and thermopile assembly because the pilot would not stay lit. The heater worked for 4 days until the heat exchanger burst and lost a bunch of water. Just replaced the heat exchanger last week but now when I light the pilot, it emits a 1.5 foot flame. What do you think is causing this? The gas control valve? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Seth Postma Holy crap, sounds like you are not having good luck with your unit.
If your pilot flame is out of control there is defiantly a problem in the gas valve, I don't think there is a way to adjust the pilot flame on these units, it's usually set at the factory look up the model of your manifold/controller (usually Honeywell or RobertShaw) and see if there is a screw or something to adjust the pilot flame.
Do be very careful especially if you attempt to re-light the flame because the duty of the pilot gas tube is to control the flame, if there is a problem and its letting out to much gas you risk blowing your self up, same reason why you NEVER attempt to re light a burner with the knob on the ON or RUN position. It should always be lit on PILOT as the gas is controlled. You will most likely need to change out the controller valve.
I'm getting an error code of "HS" which is a "water temperature sensing error" which by defination means that the inlet water tmp sensor is reporting a temp change at a rate faster than 6 degrees within 60 sec. The water temp currently is 69 degrees and when the hearter fires up the temp climbs up 70, 71, 72, 74 then kicks off. It will recycle 2 or 3 more times then shuts off. Any suggestions?
Ok I'll try in the morning which terminals do I put the probs on there is a a bunch of screws with wires there. And what voltage should it be putting out.
Ian Pitt-Taylor If you have a milivolt (no external power) system like I show here you should only have the 3
Make sure your meter is set to DC, if its not auto ranging set it to the lowest setting, Touch the probes to the first 2 terminals, you want to see at least 400-500mV
I have the h1501 model, very similar to this one. If i set mine to bypass it instantly kicks on and will run until it reaches its temp. Once it shuts off it will not kick back on. I pretty much have to tap the bypass with alligator clips every day. I read somewhere that if you tap the bypass and if it stays on then its not the sensors but if you have to keep the clips on in order for the bypass to work then its something with the sensors. any suggestions ?
Likely a problem with the gas valve. Mine did the same thing. Could also be corrosion somewhere in the wiring or the thermostat switch
My pilot lights .... but that’s it ! At first I had a fire ball shoot out but now nothing but pilot ! Any clue ??
My heater is making a large clanking sound and the error code AO. Any suggestions?
Multi meter troubleshooting Hayward pool heater
I recently had a problem with my manifold gasket leaking and putting out my flame. I had that repaired and then replaced an electronic igniter (H250) I can now hear the igniter click but am not getting any propane flow. No propane smell. All gas supply valves are open. Could this be the pressure switch or is it more of a valve problem?
I am not familiar with the electric ignition models, but generally all gas fired appliances work similarly.
Does it have a pilot light? If so can you verify it is lit. If not you should hear the gas hissing through the manifold or regulator very slightly when it tries to ignite.
No gas flow at all would indicate a problem with the gas valve.
I just replaced a broken bypass last week, but now the heater won't start up. When I turn on the heater, the gas will come on for 2-3 seconds and then immediately shutoff; any idea what could be causing this? I was thinking it might be the switch from your video, I may have been rough with it when disconnecting the leads. Everything but the bypass was working fine, and I had no issues with ignition before replacing it.
Could be low pressure not causing the switch to fully click, or could be the switch went bad as you say. Do note you dont "need" a bypass unless you are exceeding the flow rate or pressure specified by the manufacturer.
Take a multi-meter, set to continuity setting, and attach it to the leads of the switch, see if it makes contact when the pump is on.
Alternatively if you do not have a multi-meter on hand you can use a small battery and a light to make a little test circuit.
I have an issue with my H250 that maybe you can help me with. I installed it 14 years ago and it is now lighting but only staying on for about 15 seconds or so and then turning off, it will relight after about 10 seconds and turn off again, never staying lit for more than 5-10 seconds. It will cycle over and over like this.
I took out the flame sensor and cleaned it but that didn't do anything and I used a brush to clean out the 5 gas orifices. Unlike your's, mine is the electronic ignition with no pilot and it has separate spa and pool controls. other than that it should be the same.
I am getting a lot of soot on the top cover and louver vents while it is lit so I was thinking maybe it the heat exchanger just needs cleaned and isn't getting a good air/gas mixture. If my pressure switch is bad, would it do the same thing as far as cycling repeatedly on and off, or would it just stay off?
It is possible to have the copper tube clogged with something like DE (that happens with my filter pressure gauge a lot) and not function properly? If so could I just bypass the pressure sensor temporarily just to see if that's the issue? Maybe the soot is just there from it cycling over and over without ever getting a good burn. I've also read that maybe I have a bad ignition but wouldn't that just keep it from lighting at all? Thanks.
68nevets68 I have seen those units before, they are pretty much the same just more complicated, but the way they run and the problems you will encounter with them are pretty much the same...
If it is cycling on and off it could be that there is air or something in the line, engaging and disengaging the pressure switch, watch it as it runs and see if you can see the little knob popping in and out on the switch, and see it clicking it on and off. If its that you have air in the line or the switch assembly is not working properly and your problem ends there once you remedy that. Also test the actual switch it self like I did because it could be that the diaphragm that engages the switch is working fine, but the contacts in the actual switch are wearing out.
I had this problem with my thermostat. The switch would work but the unit would shut off randomly, and I would have to turn the thermostat knob back and forth to get it to come on. (see my newest video for all a bout that)
It could be that DE or something has clogged it but I doubt that, the gauge is right on the filter itself so its more likely that some will get in there, if you are getting that much filter media back in to the return lines you have a serious problem with your filter. but again, see if you can seee the switch working, and test it to see if it is the problem first, the you can try and figure out what cause it.
If your unit is installed outdoors in an relatively open space it should be getting more than enough combustion air (unless it is full of dirt and leaves inside)
Soot build up in a gas heater like this is unusual unless something is burning up inside there, you should definitely clean out the soot, if you ever see soot build up on something in your home like a furnace or hot water heater it can mean something is backing up and be a CO risk. I'm not sure what could be causing that cause I have personally never seen or had to deal with it before. The heat exchanger is just a metal part that gets hot, as the water flows though it, it absorbs the heat and heats the water, you could have dirt and debris on it that is burning up and causing the soot. Pop the cover off and carefully brush and vacuum it out.
If the pressure switch is working fine, and you tested the actual switch, it could be the flame censor is not positioned properly or it has gone bad and will need to be replaced, it could also be the power supply, or gas manifold it self is bad.
These electric ignition units have a few more components and after 14 years things start to wear out, more so if you live in a warmer climate and use the heater more months of the year
hope this helps... let me know how it goes
Thanks for the feedback and info. I'm taking it apart this weekend and hopefully it's nothing more than a good cleaning and a new switch will fix.
Hey there... great video. I got mine started by using your jumping method. right when I remove the jumper it turns off. I installed a new pressure switch(the whole unit is new) but still the same thing. Right now the only way I can heat my pool is to leave the jumper inline to have it run. Any ideas?
Lee Orphanos connect the 2 wires off the pressure switch till you get the new one just make sure your pool pump is running. And I wouldn't leave home with the heater running this way either.
thanks Chuck P! I already have the new one installed but the only way the unit will run is with the jumper on the millivolt as shown in the video. problem is not with the pressure switch as I did connect the 2 wires but it doesnt fire up unless I jumper the millivolt shown at 13;32 of the video.. any clue what else the problem could be?? have checked all things in the front panel and can't figure it out. Once it's running with the jumper for 30 mins and I remove the wire it stays going?? Problem is that I need to open the panel jumper the wires to get it going for half an hour then remove the jumper and put the panel back on... it's a pain but better than replacing the thing right now for sure.
Lee Orphanos hello did you try to clean the contacts also check the wiring to make sure its ok could be a bad connection with one of the terminals
I haven't tried cleaning the contacts...that will be tomorrows job!!
awesome video
my pilot light goes on...stays lit... then I flip the on switch, and turn the dial to my setting....but no flames appear under the unit like in your other video...
Ive never started the unit before, it was already running fine for me last season when I bought the house...
Do I need to do something to the gas feeds to get the lines opened?
thanks
Do you hear the "click" from the gas valve trying to open? If no then you have a bad contact somewhere
@@QuaabQueb do you mean the click sound that you got at 13:37 of this video? "click" and then the sound of gas? I dont hear any gas sound...
I do hear a click when I move my thermostat dial
@@HeyStripes Yes exactly. That is the sound of the gas valve opening to allow gas to the burner. The click from the thermostat switch when you turn it is just the sound of the mechanical switch depressing. Note, even if you hear that clicking it does not mean it is actually making proper contact.
@@QuaabQueb I tapped on the gas lines with my screwdriver handle while thinking about what to do next and a whole bunch of dust came out.. so I tapped some more...lightly until all the dust stopped coming out... then tried again and held the pilot switch down for a whole minute to keep the pilot light on and voila it worked :)
@@QuaabQueb ok... new issue... I got it up and running by brushing the contacts and pipes...it ran for 2 days with no issue, then suddenly yesterday it stopped firing up... the pilot light was on but it wouldn't kick on.... any ideas?
In theory, if you bypass anything, would it stay on or will it eventually turn itself off? Asking because I believe one of the sensors is faulty. I can jump that sensor and it’ll turn on, however, after about 2-3min, the whole thing clicks off, including the pilot light.
If you bypass on the gas valve terminals yes. If it shuts off then it's a bad thermocouple.
Where can In get the lil swtich?
My hayward rp2100 won't turn on. I jump the gas valve and it will turn on and run for 30 minutes and then turn off. If I keep the gas valve jumped it will keep running but wondering what the root cause is.
I replace the thermopile , but I still can't get my pilot to stay on, do you think it might be the gas valve?
Yes it is possible, or there is a corroded connection still
Hello, Can you tell me, I have an H150 series, can you tell me what the issue might be? The pilot turns on but when I let go of the valve push button (black) it turns off. Do know what the issue might be? Thank you.
Watch the video.
I got the same pool heater like this. When my heater reaches to the desired temperature, it would shut off which is normal but it will never turn back on automatically unless I use a jumper cables on the TP and TH. Can you please help me with this issue? Thanks.
Bad thermocouple, corrosion on the wires, or the gas valve could be on it's way out
Would you have any idea why only two of my Three burners are alight {the left two }? Subsuquently not heating the water and then turning itself off after a couple of mins ..
If a burner is not lighting the gas orifice may be blocked or clogged