This is a helpful video and I'm pretty sure this is what my issue is. It would be very appreciative if you showed how to access the manifold/orifices and how to put it back together. Just a suggestion. Thanks!
I commented this below: You need to use a pipe wrench outside of the box to rotate the entire mechanism. I mention this in the video around the 4m 14s mark. If that doesn't help, let me know and I'll see what more I can provide.
I just had the IF appear yesterday. I have the H250FDN and she has been running great all season. I purchased a new flame sensor off of Amazon and will try to clean out the orifices as well. When it calls for heat it's cycling through but will not ignite. I've looked through the clear glass and do not see any glow. Hoping it's either the flame sensor or clogged orifices. In my research I've also read that the board could be bad. It's raining her today so I will look into this further tomorrow. Thanks Greg for your video.
I've got exactly the same thing going on. I put the new flame sensor on but now I'm getting the AO error code. I'm gonna try to clean the brass fittings next. Did u figure yours out?
@@tonykari5124 I changed the control board a few weeks ago and she fired right up. Came out to clean the pool this morning and noticed the IF code returned. I’m guessing now it’s either the orifices or the gas valve. I’m not too crazy about playing with gas. The video makes cleaning the orifices really good, but disconnecting and reconnecting the gas line might be over my head. Did you get yours figured out?
Sometimes water can get in the fan tube and I believe it can cause the AO code as well. If you pull that rubber tube off from the front fan and vacuum switch then blow it out, it usually clears the AO if water in the tube is the cause. Assuming your blower vacuum switch isn’t bad.
I could smell gas once it's fires up, I'm guessing this might be the problem, maybe 1 or 2 is blocked off? any idea? I will have to check it out this weekend. Great video!!
Have you thought about spraying a bug killer (pyrethrum like Ortho home defense) around the heater? I’m going to start doing that. I’m told the chemical is good as a deterrent - when bugs encounter it, they act like it’s an electric shock to their nerves and they avoid the area.
Neat idea. Will certainly consider it. What I have read is that these bugs (spiders?) typically come into the lines in late fall. So I'll need to refresh any spraying after the pool closes for the season.
Are there gaskets that are supposed to go around the orifices? When I assmeble everything back up, I dont see how it's sealed properly to contain the gas. I am also noticing a gas smell around the heater. Turned the gas off for now...
Hi Greg. I just watched your video. I have same heater and maybe the same issue. I cannot figure out how to get the bar all the way out to get to the brass orifices. What did you turn to get it so far out
I commented this below: You need to use a pipe wrench outside of the box to rotate the entire mechanism. I mention this in the video around the 4m 14s mark.
It was put there by the installer. It gets the venting to be above the fenced in area behind my pool shed. I think it is just a standard aluminium stove pipe.
The "IF" code means "Ignition Failure". So the gas is failing to ignite. This can be for a few reasons: low gas flow, ignitor not getting electricity, ignitor is broken. In my case, it was low gas flow and I fixed it with the method described in this video.
Are you able to show disconnect/connect the the gas valve? I changed my control board 3 weeks ago when I received the IF code. She fired right up. However, this morning the IF code returned. So now I’m wondering if it’s the gas valve that needs replacement, clean orifices, or both. I’m not too crazy working with gas lines as it might be over my head. If you showed how to disconnect/reconnect that might give me some confidence. I have checked in with a pool guy. Just looking to save some money if possible.
@@gregfenton I see where the manifold line comes down from the gas valve, which is inside the unit. In order to get to the orifices you have to disconnect disconnect gas valve from pipe so that the manifold can me accessed. Correct? You can’t just remove the 4 screws on the manifold is secured to access the orifices. You mentioned that you needed a plumbers wrench so that the manifold bar will swing down to access the orifices.
@@patrickmcguire3417 No, I do not disconnect it at all. As mentioned in another comment, the video around the 4m 14s mark is where I show/talk about simply rotating the entire mechanism. At no point did I disconnect a gas line from the system (though I did shut the valve off just to be safe).
Wondering if this could be why my heater is taking soooo long to heat up a small hot tub. 400k btu heater taking 1 hour to go from 56 to 100 degrees F in 50 degree air temps. 4,000 cubic feet of Natural gas used in 2 hours
Worth a try to clean out the gas injectors. Could be that you have enough flow to fire up the heater, but not enough to get to full heat. A low flow might be stopping you from getting full BTUs. Please post back to let us know how it works out!
Ohh wow. i think this is what causing my pool heater same issue, i should give a try i guess. did you have IF code on display for this problem i wonder? Because I have the same model but newer look H250FDN and my heater starts up but in less then 3min i guess i get LO code and then in the end IF code. during this 3min i do see flames as well i smell gas. not sure what's happening.
Yes, it was "IF" as the error code that led me on this hunt. "IF" is "Ignition Failure", meaning "the fire didn't start up". My searching around led me to a few possible errors, the main one likely being insufficient gas flow. And thus...the video :)
According to the manual, the "PF" error code : "This code will display if 120V polarity is reversed, low voltage is detected, or if the ground path is not suffi cient. Reset is immediate after error is corrected." hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/UHS-OwnersManual011717-RevJ.pdf
Your solution worked thanks for posting your "how to".
This is a helpful video and I'm pretty sure this is what my issue is. It would be very appreciative if you showed how to access the manifold/orifices and how to put it back together. Just a suggestion. Thanks!
I commented this below: You need to use a pipe wrench outside of the box to rotate the entire mechanism. I mention this in the video around the 4m 14s mark.
If that doesn't help, let me know and I'll see what more I can provide.
I just had the IF appear yesterday. I have the H250FDN and she has been running great all season. I purchased a new flame sensor off of Amazon and will try to clean out the orifices as well. When it calls for heat it's cycling through but will not ignite. I've looked through the clear glass and do not see any glow. Hoping it's either the flame sensor or clogged orifices. In my research I've also read that the board could be bad. It's raining her today so I will look into this further tomorrow. Thanks Greg for your video.
I've got exactly the same thing going on. I put the new flame sensor on but now I'm getting the AO error code. I'm gonna try to clean the brass fittings next. Did u figure yours out?
@@tonykari5124 I changed the control board a few weeks ago and she fired right up. Came out to clean the pool this morning and noticed the IF code returned. I’m guessing now it’s either the orifices or the gas valve. I’m not too crazy about playing with gas. The video makes cleaning the orifices really good, but disconnecting and reconnecting the gas line might be over my head. Did you get yours figured out?
Sometimes water can get in the fan tube and I believe it can cause the AO code as well. If you pull that rubber tube off from the front fan and vacuum switch then blow it out, it usually clears the AO if water in the tube is the cause. Assuming your blower vacuum switch isn’t bad.
I could smell gas once it's fires up, I'm guessing this might be the problem, maybe 1 or 2 is blocked off? any idea? I will have to check it out this weekend. Great video!!
Did u figure it out? Was your brass fitting clogged up too ?
@@tonykari5124 Yes, 2 of them was blocked off with cob web..
Have you thought about spraying a bug killer (pyrethrum like Ortho home defense) around the heater? I’m going to start doing that. I’m told the chemical is good as a deterrent - when bugs encounter it, they act like it’s an electric shock to their nerves and they avoid the area.
Neat idea. Will certainly consider it. What I have read is that these bugs (spiders?) typically come into the lines in late fall. So I'll need to refresh any spraying after the pool closes for the season.
Are there gaskets that are supposed to go around the orifices? When I assmeble everything back up, I dont see how it's sealed properly to contain the gas. I am also noticing a gas smell around the heater. Turned the gas off for now...
How do you pull the gas manifold out? I unscrewed the 4 screws on 4 corners, but it is still so tight to pull it out like in your video.
You need to use a pipe wrench outside of the box to rotate the entire mechanism. I mention this in the video around the 4m 14s mark.
I updated my comment. It is the 4m 14s when I mention the pipe wrench.
After replacing the flame sensor I'm now getting the AO error code. Does anyone know what's that all about?
Hi Greg. I just watched your video. I have same heater and maybe the same issue. I cannot figure out how to get the bar all the way out to get to the brass orifices. What did you turn to get it so far out
I commented this below: You need to use a pipe wrench outside of the box to rotate the entire mechanism. I mention this in the video around the 4m 14s mark.
The following really short video shows how to do this at the 30 second mark: ua-cam.com/video/YagwXbBpvgc/v-deo.html
What is that chimney setup you have above the heater?
It was put there by the installer. It gets the venting to be above the fenced in area behind my pool shed. I think it is just a standard aluminium stove pipe.
We got if code after a few weeks running fine?
The "IF" code means "Ignition Failure". So the gas is failing to ignite. This can be for a few reasons: low gas flow, ignitor not getting electricity, ignitor is broken. In my case, it was low gas flow and I fixed it with the method described in this video.
Are you able to show disconnect/connect the the gas valve? I changed my control board 3 weeks ago when I received the IF code. She fired right up. However, this morning the IF code returned. So now I’m wondering if it’s the gas valve that needs replacement, clean orifices, or both. I’m not too crazy working with gas lines as it might be over my head. If you showed how to disconnect/reconnect that might give me some confidence. I have checked in with a pool guy. Just looking to save some money if possible.
Not sure what you mean by "gas valve"?
I too am not one keen to play with gas lines directly.
@@gregfenton I see where the manifold line comes down from the gas valve, which is inside the unit. In order to get to the orifices you have to disconnect disconnect gas valve from pipe so that the manifold can me accessed. Correct? You can’t just remove the 4 screws on the manifold is secured to access the orifices. You mentioned that you needed a plumbers wrench so that the manifold bar will swing down to access the orifices.
@@patrickmcguire3417 No, I do not disconnect it at all. As mentioned in another comment, the video around the 4m 14s mark is where I show/talk about simply rotating the entire mechanism. At no point did I disconnect a gas line from the system (though I did shut the valve off just to be safe).
The following really short video shows how to do this at the 30 second mark: ua-cam.com/video/YagwXbBpvgc/v-deo.html
My heater was working for 3 weeks and now it's not igniting whyyyyy? Please help
Please define "not working": What are you doing? What are you expecting to happen? What is actually happening?
@@gregfenton it's clicking quietly then won't fire up. How do I know how much to adjust gas flow if needed
@@keramiz3072 which make and model heater do you have?
@@gregfenton Hayward h350 hdn
Wondering if this could be why my heater is taking soooo long to heat up a small hot tub. 400k btu heater taking 1 hour to go from 56 to 100 degrees F in 50 degree air temps. 4,000 cubic feet of Natural gas used in 2 hours
Worth a try to clean out the gas injectors. Could be that you have enough flow to fire up the heater, but not enough to get to full heat. A low flow might be stopping you from getting full BTUs. Please post back to let us know how it works out!
Ohh wow. i think this is what causing my pool heater same issue, i should give a try i guess. did you have IF code on display for this problem i wonder? Because I have the same model but newer look H250FDN and my heater starts up but in less then 3min i guess i get LO code and then in the end IF code. during this 3min i do see flames as well i smell gas. not sure what's happening.
Yes, it was "IF" as the error code that led me on this hunt. "IF" is "Ignition Failure", meaning "the fire didn't start up". My searching around led me to a few possible errors, the main one likely being insufficient gas flow. And thus...the video :)
Has anyone gotten a PF code? If so can you tell me what to check for? Tia
According to the manual, the "PF" error code : "This code will display if 120V polarity is reversed, low voltage is detected, or if
the ground path is not suffi cient. Reset is immediate after error is corrected." hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/UHS-OwnersManual011717-RevJ.pdf