Just shimmed my 7.3 powerstroke, key info given here is torque the armature bolt to 2 n-m. Also solenoid shims don't seem to be needed as he says here. I had bought the injector shim kit he shows here and installed per instructions. Ran a bit better for about 5 miles then started to run really rough. Saw this video, decided to leave in armature shims since i had 0.004" clearance but take out solenoid shims as he suggests. When I took off the first solenoid I was surprised to see the armature bolt had come loose. I had them 'tight plus a little' per the shim instructions but apparently I did not give it enough and they started to loosen. I removed the solenoid shims anyhow and torqued the armature bolt to about 1.5 N-m. The replacement bolts in the kit did not feel right so I tested one of the spares on the bench and it broke at 2 N-m. It probably could have done a bit more because I had it in a vice pretty tight and may have damaged it. So I carefully went to 1.5 and it seemed to work on a 10 mile test drive. I did a buzz test before removing the solenoid shims and the quieter ones were the loosest. One that was louder and had a 'tight' armature was less that 0.5 N-m to loosen so I missed the mark pretty bad. I almost re-used the stock armature bolts but I was pretty worried about them stripping their heads with that stupid reverse torx so decided to go with the replacements from the kit. I will update if something interesting happens.
One thing I found is that the new armature bolts, i.e. Alan heads stick up above the armature plate causing them to hit the magnets. I ground the heads of the bolts down so the fit flush with the plate
15 min injector speed build brought it all together. See all the springs, balls , double on oring for blow out. If you have a tuner it should be plain as day why these wear out faster or you up the fuel pressure. Costs more money tearing stuff up. Bought a kid truck with tunner what a night mare. new injector cups had diesel in my coolant. wiring harness runs like a clock. saved me $3000 watching clint do his thing. bitterroot diesel has a solid kit with most non china crap. Stick with turbo and hpop solid upgrades. Throwing wrenches down the driveway.......hhhhhahahahhahaha Clint Rocks....
You have the heart of a teacher. I have learned so much from your videos. I take care of a 7.3 for our church. Next I need to find a youtuber as knowledgeable on the 3rd gen Cummins.
I have a question regarding this technique vs shim kit. The videos I've seen of people using the shim kits place the shim between the poppet and armature, wouldn't this accomplish exactly the same thing (bringing the armature closer to the solenoid)? I did see a video where someone shimmed the solenoid and thought to myself "WTF? He just canceled out what he did with the armature". My thought process here is that shimming between the poppet and armature would allow you to be more precise with your measurements. I don't trust that I can sand off exactly .002" on a vise with 1000 grit sand paper.
You want that clearance between the armature plate. By doing that your raising the armature plate risking hitting the solenoid. That is why you also raise the solenoid if you don't you will get a funky injector code. At the end you have accomplish the clearance you were looking for but without contacting the plate with the solenoid.
Right, both sanding the spacer like he does here and adding a washer between poppet and armature will accomplish the same thing. Increasing the gap between the armature and injector body back to factory spec. The only scenario where you would add spacers to the solenoid would be if you over sand the spacer or install too many washers between the poppet and armature (ie if the feeler gauge measures more than .004). I’m just curious why it’s viewed as the superior form of bandaid. It seems like it’s more likely to make an error with the sanding technique than it is to use washers that are “adjustable”.
I couldn't wait to get off work today to watch a new video from the best 7.3 PSD channel on UA-cam!!! Everything I know about my 01 F350 C&C 7.3 welding truck AKA Heavy Metal is because of Clint. 🍻 Here's to you 🍻
The shim kit worked well for me, don’t have the money for new/rebuilt injectors. Also did he’s “full internal spring and oring” rebuild kit on wife’s 7.3 and it worked well (found broken needle spring) In summary it’s not the best “fix” vs new and pro rebuild… but it was effective for me and cheap
I never understood why people shimmed the solenoid. Never made any sense to me either. I commented on many other channels and no one could ever explain it. Thanks for the debunk. Note: guys make sure you orient the armature with the solenoid. It can be off 90 degrees if you don’t.
Clint, another giant and sincere thank you to you and your channel. I do not watch a ton of UA-cam videos, but I do watch all of yours. Also, I was so excited when you put out that cylinder head video. I needed to hear someone I trust say the things that you said in that video. I think you could go as far as saying, video saved me from going bald. I want to point out that your personality in this video was exceptionally good and it made respect and trust you and like you even more than before. I imagine whoever is selling those shim kits wasn’t too thrilled though haha. I noticed You look pretty tuff/intimidating in the beginning part next to the cyl head but more importantly your information was delivered As expert level knowledge from someone with good integrity and intention (unless I’m completely mistaken, and you are making a fortune on 1000 grit sandpaper). You possess a great skillful ability to To present information effectively so the information reaches us correctly, You’re supreme and unique level of experience cherished big time man. I think your influence is most likely has actually dramatically improved a lot men’s lives. (Saved us a ton of money, maybe even made us feel like we can actually afford to buy one of these, or just confidence and respect a man gets from fixing something that requires skill and knowledge. Thank you so much again.
TY for this....Many people are critics ..your way is the right way...I won't say anything on why it's not a good thing to shim the solenoid..let them learn...lol.("Expanding and Contracting") .ty sir for your skills...)
Really glad I stumbled upon your channel. I shimmed my injectors with buddies Ebay kit and it made no difference. I have to replace my glow plugs now 3 years later and I will follow your advice. Thank you sir
I did the shim kit last year on a pickup I had recently got at an auction that had just over 300k miles. It had a tough time starting, and seemed a little low on power. I pulled the injectors and did o-rings, did the shim kit and put in new glow plugs, as well as drill holes in the solenoid spacer since mine didn't have any. It starts way better now, but I will say that the shim kit is a band-aid at best. It lets me run the pickup long enough so I can decide if its worth putting new injectors in or ditch it.
Help me get this right in my head, but wouldn’t sanding down that shim just change the armature clearance when it’s pull up by the magnet? From what I’m understanding, the poppet would be in the down position when not actuated and not in contact with the guide.
I ordered the shim kit, wish I would have seen this before ordering.... I guess I have the necessary tools to do it the correct way now... Clint You are my 7.3l go to, Deisel Tech Ron (RIP) Is my go to for my 6.0l... Thanks for sharing thes videos...👍👍
Just saw your video after having a hard to start cold on a friends 97 power stroke. I’ve got zero clearance on injectors 2 & 4. Going to try this repair but am curious what wears down that creates the loss of clearance in the first place?
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I’ve got rebuilt injectors ordered for these two cylinders but cylinders #1 & #3 have a weak contribution at cold running also. Still have to check there clearance but they might be helped by this. Cylinders #2 & #4 have zero contribution when cold so they get rebuilt injectors. Truck has 369,000 miles on it and is pretty well beat up, not sure it’s worth the cost of new injectors. Thanks for the video and your response.
Just currious Clint, how much clearance or movement does the armature have when the solenoid pulls it up? Such as lifting the armature plate up and measuring the clearance between. Having a hell of a time, all sensors good, all harness's, good, pass buzz test, no codes at all, contribution error on #4, open valve cover run truck and noticed #2 and #4 little to no oil flow. Possible ICM? Even with no PCM or DTC codes being thrown?
ua-cam.com/video/hT4piOzDLuA/v-deo.html This is a long ago CAT update ( same injector in there engine ) I,m not the only one who does it this way Just the first time its been pointed out. Keeps excess oil from building up under the armature allowing it to go all the way down, also allows drain back into the poppet for easier cold starts, stops excessive wear on the poppet stopper, allows the oil drain back to end up in the tear drop in the barrel. last the solenoid pulls faster and more responsive because extra oil can escape the the armature holes See the above video and the rest in the series answers a lot of questions and educates Thanks have a great weekend
finished watching play list on injectors have a uestion 1999 f-250 build date feb 1998 have ad injectors and looking for rebuild kit. bitter root has one but dont see if the o-rings are ford oem. can you recomend a good kit? thanks for the videos
I got a question I got my 99 Ford F-350 Super Duty XLT diesel 7.3l I want to buy the new injectors my question is it is in a specific injector for order I know it is in the motor it is in the injectors 2
I work at a machine shop with acess to surface grinders, would you say machining down the intensifier pistions for bigger injector capacity is okay? I can easily acheive a tolerance of .0005in or even .0002 if needed. Also, should I take material off the open end or closed end? Thank you for these videos!
.1= tenths .01= ten thou .001= "nought point nought nought one" or "zero point zero zero one" or just keep it simple by saying thousandth of an inch. But .0001= ten thousandths that is tighter than a nuns VJJ...😅😂🤣
this videos are golden. good info and demonstrating it on the engine is super helpful. is it possible to test injectors while its out of the engine? i know you can apply 12 volts to the injector and it will "buzz"
Another great video, 👍 don't know about those tiny screws. My luck, they would end up where they did not belong. May be tape on a finger or two would help!😊 At any rate, thanks for the education!
Thank you Sir Another informative video The problem I am having is following your advice I would like to change my main harness on my 99 with 307005 miles The problem I am having is going to at least 3 ford dealer the ittem is discontinued and they cannot help me Can you please give an idea where can I find the harness I do not want to follow a dealer's advice to go to the junk yard ( so much for expert opinion) Thank You very much and have a good day 😀
I am not a very smart man, but how does reducing the the thickness of a shim actually shim anything. I thought the idea was to increaase the distance between the armiture and the spacer, thus the added shim. The increased space up to .004 allows the oil to flow more readily especially at cold temps. And, I believe that the solenoid shims are to prevent the armiture from contacting the magnets in the solenoid and causing a short. I must be missing something.
Clint as usual another fantastic video I consider you the expert of all time on the 7.3 you've helped me immensely. Got a question I would love to get a new turbo for my 2000 7.3 with 200,000 miles on it ..but I hate to spend that kind of money, is there something really wrong with just changing the compressor wheel I just hate that dead spot around 1500 RPM I'm hoping to do the cheap way out changing the compressor wheel would be OK or is that an absolute no no ....thanks for your help and your wealth of information
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD There are 2 people in this world i trust for Awesome skills...Custom Works and good old Ron DieselTechRon (May He RIP)...this is because they have common logic, willing to learn new stuff and went through a lot of trial and error...This is how we become masters...Peace.I4I
as a 65 yr old diesel tech i question people who claim to know better ,,, shimming is just 1 of many practices to help your engine run smoother ,, if your doing injector o-rings then do the cups while your in there and shim your injectors as well ,, your already in there ,, dont ignore them just because some %$#@ says balonge ,, do it anyway ,, cant hurt
But but but... they needed my $$$ Lol! Good to know it's easier to do it the right way rather than the $wrong$ way! To be honest, the 7.3 I shimmed with the kit, I really can't remember if it helped anything... so I'm thinking not.
I DONT UNDERSTAND BUT I WILL TRUST THE PROCESS!!! When I did my shim kit it wouldn't start under 45⁰ and when I was done with the kit it starts below freezing Temps no problem. BUT I WILL TRY THIS METHOD IN THE FOLLOWING WEEKS ON A F-550 WITH 460,000 MILES ON THE 🕑.
Mr Allen. Following your advise to the T. I noted about the Hot Shots sticktion, you commented put in about 500 or so miles before changing oil. The directions read go ahead and leave it in for the duration after oil change. I'm looking for you advice and suggestion here . You've really help me to understand this little monster. I inherited a early 99 350 XLT 4wd. with 118,000 on it . And I really like this 7.3. It's in great shape . Just want to stay ahead of everything. Have the wiring harness, up pipes,New 68 roller bearing turbo, replaced all the censors. With OEM ONLY. Ordered the high volume lpop and Adrenaline HPOP. And going to find the oil balancer for the crank.. Just need to make time for getting it all installed In mean time just want to make it happy. Your thoughts ???
Only shimming the armature or machining the oil relief plate would be the only proper way to do this. The point of shimming is to make sure the poppet valve is fully seated and not being hung from ware by the oil relief plate. Sanding that washer only allows the armature to be lifted higher to the solenoid and does nothing for why you would ever shim an injector like this. This vid is no good for what your trying to accomplish and why you shim in the first place.
Just shimmed my 7.3 powerstroke, key info given here is torque the armature bolt to 2 n-m. Also solenoid shims don't seem to be needed as he says here.
I had bought the injector shim kit he shows here and installed per instructions. Ran a bit better for about 5 miles then started to run really rough. Saw this video, decided to leave in armature shims since i had 0.004" clearance but take out solenoid shims as he suggests.
When I took off the first solenoid I was surprised to see the armature bolt had come loose. I had them 'tight plus a little' per the shim instructions but apparently I did not give it enough and they started to loosen. I removed the solenoid shims anyhow and torqued the armature bolt to about 1.5 N-m. The replacement bolts in the kit did not feel right so I tested one of the spares on the bench and it broke at 2 N-m. It probably could have done a bit more because I had it in a vice pretty tight and may have damaged it. So I carefully went to 1.5 and it seemed to work on a 10 mile test drive. I did a buzz test before removing the solenoid shims and the quieter ones were the loosest. One that was louder and had a 'tight' armature was less that 0.5 N-m to loosen so I missed the mark pretty bad. I almost re-used the stock armature bolts but I was pretty worried about them stripping their heads with that stupid reverse torx so decided to go with the replacements from the kit. I will update if something interesting happens.
One thing I found is that the new armature bolts, i.e. Alan heads stick up above the armature plate causing them to hit the magnets. I ground the heads of the bolts down so the fit flush with the plate
Really enjoy these videos. Keeping a 7.3 in good working order is like anything else. Knowledge is power! Looking forward to the next one!
15 min injector speed build brought it all together. See all the springs, balls , double on oring for blow out. If you have a tuner it should be plain as day why these wear out faster or you up the fuel pressure. Costs more money tearing stuff up. Bought a kid truck with tunner what a night mare. new injector cups had diesel in my coolant. wiring harness runs like a clock. saved me $3000 watching clint do his thing. bitterroot diesel has a solid kit with most non china crap. Stick with turbo and hpop solid upgrades. Throwing wrenches down the driveway.......hhhhhahahahhahaha Clint Rocks....
You have the heart of a teacher. I have learned so much from your videos. I take care of a 7.3 for our church. Next I need to find a youtuber as knowledgeable on the 3rd gen Cummins.
I have a question regarding this technique vs shim kit. The videos I've seen of people using the shim kits place the shim between the poppet and armature, wouldn't this accomplish exactly the same thing (bringing the armature closer to the solenoid)? I did see a video where someone shimmed the solenoid and thought to myself "WTF? He just canceled out what he did with the armature". My thought process here is that shimming between the poppet and armature would allow you to be more precise with your measurements. I don't trust that I can sand off exactly .002" on a vise with 1000 grit sand paper.
You want that clearance between the armature plate. By doing that your raising the armature plate risking hitting the solenoid. That is why you also raise the solenoid if you don't you will get a funky injector code. At the end you have accomplish the clearance you were looking for but without contacting the plate with the solenoid.
Right, both sanding the spacer like he does here and adding a washer between poppet and armature will accomplish the same thing. Increasing the gap between the armature and injector body back to factory spec. The only scenario where you would add spacers to the solenoid would be if you over sand the spacer or install too many washers between the poppet and armature (ie if the feeler gauge measures more than .004). I’m just curious why it’s viewed as the superior form of bandaid. It seems like it’s more likely to make an error with the sanding technique than it is to use washers that are “adjustable”.
I couldn't wait to get off work today to watch a new video from the best 7.3 PSD channel on UA-cam!!!
Everything I know about my 01 F350 C&C 7.3 welding truck AKA Heavy Metal is because of Clint.
🍻 Here's to you 🍻
The shim kit worked well for me, don’t have the money for new/rebuilt injectors. Also did he’s “full internal spring and oring” rebuild kit on wife’s 7.3 and it worked well (found broken needle spring) In summary it’s not the best “fix” vs new and pro rebuild… but it was effective for me and cheap
I never understood why people shimmed the solenoid. Never made any sense to me either. I commented on many other channels and no one could ever explain it. Thanks for the debunk.
Note: guys make sure you orient the armature with the solenoid. It can be off 90 degrees if you don’t.
Clint, another giant and sincere thank you to you and your channel. I do not watch a ton of UA-cam videos, but I do watch all of yours. Also, I was so excited when you put out that cylinder head video. I needed to hear someone I trust say the things that you said in that video. I think you could go as far as saying, video saved me from going bald. I want to point out that your personality in this video was exceptionally good and it made respect and trust you and like you even more than before. I imagine whoever is selling those shim kits wasn’t too thrilled though haha. I noticed You look pretty tuff/intimidating in the beginning part next to the cyl head but more importantly your information was delivered As expert level knowledge from someone with good integrity and intention (unless I’m completely mistaken, and you are making a fortune on 1000 grit sandpaper). You possess a great skillful ability to To present information effectively so the information reaches us correctly, You’re supreme and unique level of experience cherished big time man. I think your influence is most likely has actually dramatically improved a lot men’s lives. (Saved us a ton of money, maybe even made us feel like we can actually afford to buy one of these, or just confidence and respect a man gets from fixing something that requires skill and knowledge. Thank you so much again.
TY for this....Many people are critics ..your way is the right way...I won't say anything on why it's not a good thing to shim the solenoid..let them learn...lol.("Expanding and Contracting") .ty sir for your skills...)
Really glad I stumbled upon your channel. I shimmed my injectors with buddies Ebay kit and it made no difference. I have to replace my glow plugs now 3 years later and I will follow your advice. Thank you sir
I did the shim kit last year on a pickup I had recently got at an auction that had just over 300k miles. It had a tough time starting, and seemed a little low on power. I pulled the injectors and did o-rings, did the shim kit and put in new glow plugs, as well as drill holes in the solenoid spacer since mine didn't have any. It starts way better now, but I will say that the shim kit is a band-aid at best. It lets me run the pickup long enough so I can decide if its worth putting new injectors in or ditch it.
Enjoyed the video my 97 7.3 isn't broken in yet with only 141k on the clock. Enjoyed the video and BE SAFE OUT THERE!
Help me get this right in my head, but wouldn’t sanding down that shim just change the armature clearance when it’s pull up by the magnet? From what I’m understanding, the poppet would be in the down position when not actuated and not in contact with the guide.
I'm scratching my head as well.......😶🌫️🤔🤔🤔
I ordered the shim kit, wish I would have seen this before ordering.... I guess I have the necessary tools to do it the correct way now...
Clint You are my 7.3l go to, Deisel Tech Ron (RIP) Is my go to for my 6.0l... Thanks for sharing thes videos...👍👍
Just saw your video after having a hard to start cold on a friends 97 power stroke. I’ve got zero clearance on injectors 2 & 4. Going to try this repair but am curious what wears down that creates the loss of clearance in the first place?
There to far gone when they get to this point there are other plates and pins that are also worn out as well its time for new injectors
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
I’ve got rebuilt injectors ordered for these two cylinders but cylinders #1 & #3 have a weak contribution at cold running also. Still have to check there clearance but they might be helped by this. Cylinders #2 & #4 have zero contribution when cold so they get rebuilt injectors. Truck has 369,000 miles on it and is pretty well beat up, not sure it’s worth the cost of new injectors. Thanks for the video and your response.
Just currious Clint, how much clearance or movement does the armature have when the solenoid pulls it up?
Such as lifting the armature plate up and measuring the clearance between.
Having a hell of a time, all sensors good, all harness's, good, pass buzz test, no codes at all, contribution error on #4, open valve cover run truck and noticed #2 and #4 little to no oil flow.
Possible ICM? Even with no PCM or DTC codes being thrown?
Great video. Im about to fully rebuilt my AA's and change out the intensifier pistons . I will definitely be doing this while there. Thanks!!!!!!
Clint why is it important to face the poppet a certain way. You're the only one who does it this way. Please explain
ua-cam.com/video/hT4piOzDLuA/v-deo.html This is a long ago CAT update ( same injector in there engine ) I,m not the only one who does it this way Just the first time its been pointed out. Keeps excess oil from building up under the armature allowing it to go all the way down, also allows drain back into the poppet for easier cold starts, stops excessive wear on the poppet stopper, allows the oil drain back to end up in the tear drop in the barrel. last the solenoid pulls faster and more responsive because extra oil can escape the the armature holes See the above video and the rest in the series answers a lot of questions and educates Thanks have a great weekend
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks Clint
finished watching play list on injectors have a uestion 1999 f-250 build date feb 1998 have ad injectors and looking for rebuild kit. bitter root has one but dont see if the o-rings are ford oem. can you recomend a good kit?
thanks for the videos
What size are the tools needed for this?
So since I am taking this shim kit back, how can I measure the injectors to know how much to sand
You could use a micrometer on the OEM shim spacer and your feeler gauges after torquing down the armature...
I got a question I got my 99 Ford F-350 Super Duty XLT diesel 7.3l I want to buy the new injectors my question is it is in a specific injector for order I know it is in the motor it is in the injectors 2
always remove the valve cover and get the numbers that are on top of the injector Vans , trucks, bus's have different injectors
I work at a machine shop with acess to surface grinders, would you say machining down the intensifier pistions for bigger injector capacity is okay? I can easily acheive a tolerance of .0005in or even .0002 if needed. Also, should I take material off the open end or closed end? Thank you for these videos!
WAW YOU TAKE TEN THOUSANDTHS OFF???😅😂 I WOULDN'T TRUST MY IRON WITH YOU... GET YOUR NUMBERS RIGHT FIRST....
.1= tenths
.01= ten thou
.001= "nought point nought nought one" or "zero point zero zero one" or just keep it simple by saying thousandth of an inch.
But .0001= ten thousandths that is tighter than a nuns VJJ...😅😂🤣
this videos are golden. good info and demonstrating it on the engine is super helpful. is it possible to test injectors while its out of the engine? i know you can apply 12 volts to the injector and it will "buzz"
Another great video, 👍 don't know about those tiny screws. My luck, they would end up where they did not belong. May be tape on a finger or two would help!😊
At any rate, thanks for the education!
Thank you Sir Another informative video The problem I am having is following your advice I would like to change my main harness on my 99 with 307005 miles The problem I am having is going to at least 3 ford dealer the ittem is discontinued and they cannot help me Can you please give an idea where can I find the harness I do not want to follow a dealer's advice to go to the junk yard ( so much for expert opinion) Thank You very much and have a good day 😀
riffraff diesel your going to have the get the numbers
I did all that and my injector still doesn't work what could be wrong
Is there any way to check- test for the low pressure oil pump?
oil cooler has a plug that you can hook a pressure gauge 2
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD You know what the pressure should be? Thank You 🙏
This Guy...what a no BS 7.3 Guru...he gives no f!@#s about the wanna be boys, refreshing as Hell
I am not a very smart man, but how does reducing the the thickness of a shim actually shim anything. I thought the idea was to increaase the distance between the armiture and the spacer, thus the added shim. The increased space up to .004 allows the oil to flow more readily especially at cold temps. And, I believe that the solenoid shims are to prevent the armiture from contacting the magnets in the solenoid and causing a short. I must be missing something.
Your correct this guy is effectively doing nothing but the point is to add length not shorting it.
Hey I need help on this 97 7.3. I have videos to send you on it but not sure how.
Clint as usual another fantastic video I consider you the expert of all time on the 7.3 you've helped me immensely.
Got a question I would love to get a new turbo for my 2000 7.3 with 200,000 miles on it ..but I hate to spend that kind of money, is there something really wrong with just changing the compressor wheel I just hate that dead spot around 1500 RPM I'm hoping to do the cheap way out changing the compressor wheel
would be OK or is that an absolute no no ....thanks for your help and your wealth of information
There is no issue with just a wheel upgrade it will stop that issue and any one from the big diesel after market sites will be fine
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD There are 2 people in this world i trust for Awesome skills...Custom Works and good old Ron DieselTechRon (May He RIP)...this is because they have common logic, willing to learn new stuff and went through a lot of trial and error...This is how we become masters...Peace.I4I
as a 65 yr old diesel tech i question people who claim to know better ,,, shimming is just 1 of many practices to help your engine run smoother ,, if your doing injector o-rings then do the cups while your in there and shim your injectors as well ,, your already in there ,, dont ignore them just because some %$#@ says balonge ,, do it anyway ,, cant hurt
Do you drill out both holes or just one?
If youwant to do both it won't hurt anything
But but but... they needed my $$$ Lol! Good to know it's easier to do it the right way rather than the $wrong$ way! To be honest, the 7.3 I shimmed with the kit, I really can't remember if it helped anything... so I'm thinking not.
You must have done it wrong... my truck wouldn't start in 45⁰ and now it could be below freezing amd starts right up.
Wait a second....you changed your Spec, used to be .0035
I just replayed back a bit, you are RIGHT, lol.
Right on
I DONT UNDERSTAND BUT I WILL TRUST THE PROCESS!!!
When I did my shim kit it wouldn't start under 45⁰ and when I was done with the kit it starts below freezing Temps no problem.
BUT I WILL TRY THIS METHOD IN THE FOLLOWING WEEKS ON A F-550 WITH 460,000 MILES ON THE 🕑.
Thanx very very much sir !
Mr Allen.
Following your advise to the T.
I noted about the Hot Shots sticktion, you commented put in about 500 or so miles before changing oil.
The directions read go ahead and leave it in for the duration after oil change.
I'm looking for you advice and suggestion here .
You've really help me to understand this little monster.
I inherited a early 99 350 XLT 4wd.
with 118,000 on it .
And I really like this 7.3.
It's in great shape .
Just want to stay ahead of everything.
Have the wiring harness, up pipes,New 68 roller bearing turbo, replaced all the censors.
With OEM ONLY.
Ordered the high volume lpop and Adrenaline HPOP.
And going to find the oil balancer for the crank..
Just need to make time for getting it all installed
In mean time just want to make it happy.
Your thoughts ???
Lol dammit man. Thx
13:41 😢 13:41
Only shimming the armature or machining the oil relief plate would be the only proper way to do this. The point of shimming is to make sure the poppet valve is fully seated and not being hung from ware by the oil relief plate. Sanding that washer only allows the armature to be lifted higher to the solenoid and does nothing for why you would ever shim an injector like this. This vid is no good for what your trying to accomplish and why you shim in the first place.