Why would the link removal offer more articulation than electronic sway bar disconnect? When a sway bar is electronically disconnected there is no resistance to articulation so why is there a difference in the degree ramp test?
+Tom Easley You would think.... They will sell a set of Velcro straps that attach in the same location as my solution for 15.95 plus shipping. Didn't even know they had them until after the video was done.. Oh well... I like mine better...half the fun is making your own solution. Thanks
great video! I recieved my links (open box) with no directions so i winged it. I got everything right except for the adjustment. I was going up the mountain camping and my sway bar flipped over itself due to inproper adjustment. Great idea for stowage also!
We have a 2015 Sahara JKU with a 2.5" Rubicon express lift and 35's - if I install Eaton or another brand locking differentials, and these JKS Quick Disconnects - will I have basically the same capabilities as a Rubicon except for the DANA 40 front? Thanks for the video and your time.
Lmao.......I'm a parts junkie too! I couldn't believe you said disgard. Great video. I have lots of Jks on my Zj , and love all of it. Highest quaility gear. Well worth the money, plus thier in my own backyard here in Mi. Keep em commin.
I have a question about the set-up you devised for keeping the sway bar in place after removal of the links @6:00. I recently removed mine for the first time but did not notice the bar moving. I kept the electronic sway bar disconnect engaged and the bar did not seem to move. Should I construct a similar system as the one you presented here? Thanks,
In the video, you will notice me moving the swaybar up and down. The swaybar was was locked while it did this. It will eventually fall into the line of the tire. Adding the links to hold the swaybar in place is cheap insurance (about 7 bucks). So I would definitely recommend that you install the links. Thanks for the question
First - Nice video Second - If you have travel limited by the electronic sway bar in disconnect it is because of improper swap bar link lengths. Down travel should always be checked and many times on a Rubicon you will need the sway bar tilting slightly upward (or more depending on travel and ride height) so that you have enough link length to handle your droop. When vehicle is properly setup there is no difference between electronic sway bar and manual discos.
+Riley Anderson Riley, thanks for your question.. Be careful of the Dana 30 front axle if you are going to run 35's. With the locker it will be very capable of doing the job. But it will need some help if you really want to wheel to hard. Since you are are going install a locker, you may want to sleeve the axle tubes and add inner-C Gussets. You can get the sleeves from Nitro gear and axle or Teraflex, The Synergy C Gussets seemed to work great for me... Thanks for your comment
I would stay away from the tube sleeves, they create a weak spot at the diff housing where the sleeve ends. I would go with the truss kit from Artec. The Teraflex replacement axle housings are bad to the bone, And, would be a good time to upgrade to a Dana 44 .
+dubzach It sure will JKS Makes them for almost all jeep Models. the biggest decision you have to make is what length to get. they come in several sizes
Dont really know size I took one of the posts to the hardware store and when the washer went over the post that was my winner.... Not very scientific is it..
Yeah I'm not a fan of removing the link when disconnected. They can get lost and its a hassle to secure the swaybar. Solution: Where the link connects to the swaybar you should use a bolt that you never remove. The axle side should have the pin so you can remove the link from the axle. You drill your inner fender and install the second pin so that the link holds the swaybar stationary.
I think these would work to keep the sway bar out of the way without completely removing the links: www.northridge4x4.com/part/disconnects/1601277-teraflex-swaybar-quick-upper-stud-disconnect-bracket-kit
Great video
Why would the link removal offer more articulation than electronic sway bar disconnect? When a sway bar is electronically disconnected there is no resistance to articulation so why is there a difference in the degree ramp test?
How well have the bushings held up since this video?
Would zip ties work okay to hold the sway bar? That's what i planned on using when i start offroading.
nice job! not only on the work but the video too. It was straight forward, funny, and clean.
well played sir
Thank you for your kind words....
You would think that for the price of this they would include a bracket to stow the link up out of the way like the Terraflex kit.
+Tom Easley You would think.... They will sell a set of Velcro straps that attach in the same location as my solution for 15.95 plus shipping. Didn't even know they had them until after the video was done.. Oh well... I like mine better...half the fun is making your own solution.
Thanks
The one made for JL & JT’s come with a bracket to hold the link up out of the way
great video! I recieved my links (open box) with no directions so i winged it. I got everything right except for the adjustment. I was going up the mountain camping and my sway bar flipped over itself due to inproper adjustment. Great idea for stowage also!
+Wes Teg That sucks glad you got it straightened out... Thanks for your kind words.
I don't have a bit of problems doing every day driving with no swaybar at all but i also know my vehicle and don't travel any faster than 45-55
Neither do I, but, this only effects the vehicle handling characteristics when cornering, more safety than anything else. Just be safe.
@@qmanske its pretty much a straight shot where ever i go never make sharp and definitely dont drive at high speeds
We have a 2015 Sahara JKU with a 2.5" Rubicon express lift and 35's - if I install Eaton or another brand locking differentials, and these JKS Quick Disconnects - will I have basically the same capabilities as a Rubicon except for the DANA 40 front? Thanks for the video and your time.
Outstanding !!
Enjoyed the humor as well .
+Tom Hunt Thanks Tom! Have more coming Just need to get it edited, Thank You very Much
Lmao.......I'm a parts junkie too! I couldn't believe you said disgard. Great video. I have lots of Jks on my Zj , and love all of it. Highest quaility gear. Well worth the money, plus thier in my own backyard here in Mi. Keep em commin.
+Alex Rosas Working on the next one right now.... I cant wait till it's done...
I have a question about the set-up you devised for keeping the sway bar in place after removal of the links @6:00. I recently removed mine for the first time but did not notice the bar moving. I kept the electronic sway bar disconnect engaged and the bar did not seem to move. Should I construct a similar system as the one you presented here? Thanks,
In the video, you will notice me moving the swaybar up and down. The swaybar was was locked while it did this. It will eventually fall into the line of the tire. Adding the links to hold the swaybar in place is cheap insurance (about 7 bucks). So I would definitely recommend that you install the links. Thanks for the question
10-4, thanks
First - Nice video
Second - If you have travel limited by the electronic sway bar in disconnect it is because of improper swap bar link lengths. Down travel should always be checked and many times on a Rubicon you will need the sway bar tilting slightly upward (or more depending on travel and ride height) so that you have enough link length to handle your droop.
When vehicle is properly setup there is no difference between electronic sway bar and manual discos.
+Riley Anderson Riley, thanks for your question.. Be careful of the Dana 30 front axle if you are going to run 35's. With the locker it will be very capable of doing the job. But it will need some help if you really want to wheel to hard. Since you are are going install a locker, you may want to sleeve the axle tubes and add inner-C Gussets. You can get the sleeves from Nitro gear and axle or Teraflex, The Synergy C Gussets seemed to work great for me... Thanks for your comment
I would stay away from the tube sleeves, they create a weak spot at the diff housing where the sleeve ends. I would go with the truss kit from Artec. The Teraflex replacement axle housings are bad to the bone, And, would be a good time to upgrade to a Dana 44 .
I like the terminals on the steering bar, the red bushings, does it take away the slack in the bar? Can you send me the model?
Very good and explanatory video. I really leant something. Thank you!
Glad You liked it. Thanks for watching.
When you remove the jks quicker links do you also disconnect the sway bar links electronically?
Great Video! How many inches lift and what size tires did you do this with?
4" Lift with 37" tires
tired of bustin my knuckles everytime i wana hit the trail...will this fit on a stock 2door
+dubzach It sure will JKS Makes them for almost all jeep Models. the biggest decision you have to make is what length to get. they come in several sizes
I bought my jeep with these already installed. I noticed they move when i grab them with my hand. Is that normal?
Hey Man Great video awesome tips and tricks!!! What size are the washers that you used at the end???
Dont really know size I took one of the posts to the hardware store and when the washer went over the post that was my winner.... Not very scientific is it..
Thanks for the video and your humor!
Thanks alot Seems like i never get enough time to make more. Need to work on that...
Great how to man! Thumbed up and Sub'd
+JeepArmy USA Thanks Guys, Looking forward to more of the same. Thanks
How are JKS working out for you? Any issues? I am looking to install a pair of this brand. Thanks for the great video.
They have been great, no problems, easy to keep lubed, the bushings have held up very well.
this was a great video
Glad you liked it... More to come...
Yeah I'm not a fan of removing the link when disconnected. They can get lost and its a hassle to secure the swaybar.
Solution:
Where the link connects to the swaybar you should use a bolt that you never remove. The axle side should have the pin so you can remove the link from the axle. You drill your inner fender and install the second pin so that the link holds the swaybar stationary.
Wish I had watched this through the end before buying the JKS disconnect lanyard set
hi thank u for the video.
Thanks Sami, Thanks for watching...
I think these would work to keep the sway bar out of the way without completely removing the links: www.northridge4x4.com/part/disconnects/1601277-teraflex-swaybar-quick-upper-stud-disconnect-bracket-kit
LOL! That was awesome!
+Croker David Glad you liked it... Hopefully I will have more out soon.
good video good job.....
@5:04
haha deez nuts!!
humor helps