Thanks Rob. This video is very timely. I was not seeing the "what you see is what you get changes" on the LCD while in manual mode. I had no idea why. I guess I had turned on the Live View Boost at some point. I have now turned it off and all is well again. Thank you sooooo much!
Wow, thank you Rob. Describing how each mode worked instead of just saying briefly makes it so easy to understand. I’ll buy you a coffee when my pay comes in ( that might sound silly but the budget is that tight).
@@RobTrek I’m glad your not, you are soooo helpful. I’m still confused on going manual or av mode but I’m ploughing through your tutorial playlist. I do like setting iso myself instead of auto but when you do that, to me, av and manual are virtually the same. It really makes a difference to see this level of help on an old camera.
Thanks Rob, I know this but it is good to repeat it step by step like you always do. I was old 4/3 Oly user but I move to m4/3 and bought OMD 10 MKII thanks to you few years ago. I am sitll very, very happy with that small but very capable camera, I bought recently OM1, but usally take out OMD 10 because I discover recently that I like to shot so much with old manual vintage lenses and OMD 10 is perfect for that by my opinion. Mighty OM1 I left for Oly digital lenses. Cheers man, enjoy your coffee and keep going!
Useful video Rob. I use the Live View Boost for situations where I am using my Rotolight LED constant light / flash. I normal use the EVF rather than the camera screen. My use of the Live View Boost is not quite as it was intended. If I get time I will explain with an email 🧐🧐
@@RobTrek Very briefly I do not use the Live View Boost when on constant light but when switched on it gives me a good idea of the exposure I will get when I pressing the shutter button to obtain the Flash from my Rotolights. All good fun this photography and video. I will explain more later.
On my earlier Olympus cameras (EM1, EM1-2, EM5-2) I used Live View Boost to turn off exposure preview so I could use studio strobes. When I got my current EM1-3 I finally discovered the S-OVF (Simulated Optical Viewfinder) feature which does the same thing but can be assigned to a function button to toggle on or off. This is convenient if I'm, say, switching back and forth between strobe and natural light during a portrait session. Every camera maker has a different name for their S-OVF function (Nikon calls it "Apply settings to Live View" and Fuji calls it "Preview Exp/WB in manual mode") so a bit of detective work is often needed to find it when setting up a non-Olympus camera.
Thank you for this most useful explanation. Previously I had tried it but could not understand what was happening, so switched it off. I am using flash in a dark studio. Is there any way that the screen can be made to show that LV is switched on, to remind me that what I see is not what I shall get?
Thank you for addressing this issue , for years i did not know this till now i watched your video, also on the same page it says Histogram settings , can you please elaborate what settings should i put
It’s different on the OM1. LV mode is either Standard where shooting settings like exposure compensation are applied or S-OVF ( Simulated Optical Viewfinder? )where it’s like an optical viewfinder and no shooting settings applied, i.e. like ON1 in Rob’s video. There is a separate setting called Night Vision which is either On or Off. I guess that’s like ON2 in Rob’s video.
Thanks for your explanation. Now I can reach "what you see is what you get" with Boost OFF in manual mode. But in S mode, the brightness of display won't change with the change of shutter speed (fixed ISO, S-OVF turned off). Are there some things I missed out?
Hi, Bryan. Sorry for the late reply. I don't know of any other settings that would affect the live view. Just keep in mind that the live view is limited to showing exposures within +/- 3EV. So if your EV meter is blinking, you will not see the correct exposure on the screen. Also, the live view doesn't work well in low light, so that's why Live View Boost was created.
I am having very, very real difficulties with using my Pen Fs in manual mode ( whilst my images are far from perfect) as when manually setting exposure, aperture and shutter speeds, the end results are often mega over/ but mainly underexposed !! It may be that I have inadvertently made some menu setting which is causing these problems, I did not have in the past ??? Will make the menu change suggested by you and , fingers crossed, my manual setting lead to properly exposed images, as shown by the histogram which I rely on as well as making relevant adjustments to iso, aperture and shutter speed. As with my Pen F automatically setting the iso at 200, which I only found out several years ago when viewing one of your typically helpful videos', I trust I have found the problem- it is just so maddening when you have been able, more or less, to get manual settings right and then the whole process goes up in smoke- my anger level is very, very high .
Great video Rob. It is so well explained and equally well demonstrated which makes it very easy to understand and remember.
Thanks!
Thanks Rob. This video is very timely. I was not seeing the "what you see is what you get changes" on the LCD while in manual mode. I had no idea why. I guess I had turned on the Live View Boost at some point. I have now turned it off and all is well again. Thank you sooooo much!
Happy to help. The On1 is on by default, so you probably needed to turn it off anyway.
Wow, thank you Rob. Describing how each mode worked instead of just saying briefly makes it so easy to understand. I’ll buy you a coffee when my pay comes in ( that might sound silly but the budget is that tight).
Thanks, Ric. As you may have seen, I'm not really the "short answer" kind of guy.
@@RobTrek I’m glad your not, you are soooo helpful. I’m still confused on going manual or av mode but I’m ploughing through your tutorial playlist. I do like setting iso myself instead of auto but when you do that, to me, av and manual are virtually the same. It really makes a difference to see this level of help on an old camera.
Thanks Rob, I know this but it is good to repeat it step by step like you always do. I was old 4/3 Oly user but I move to m4/3 and bought OMD 10 MKII thanks to you few years ago. I am sitll very, very happy with that small but very capable camera, I bought recently OM1, but usally take out OMD 10 because I discover recently that I like to shot so much with old manual vintage lenses and OMD 10 is perfect for that by my opinion. Mighty OM1 I left for Oly digital lenses. Cheers man, enjoy your coffee and keep going!
Thank you!
@@RobTrek You are welcome, it is great to have you here! 🙂
Useful video Rob. I use the Live View Boost for situations where I am using my Rotolight LED constant light / flash. I normal use the EVF rather than the camera screen. My use of the Live View Boost is not quite as it was intended. If I get time I will explain with an email 🧐🧐
That's interesting. I'll have to give some thought on why you would use boost on constant light.
@@RobTrek Very briefly I do not use the Live View Boost when on constant light but when switched on it gives me a good idea of the exposure I will get when I pressing the shutter button to obtain the Flash from my Rotolights. All good fun this photography and video. I will explain more later.
On my earlier Olympus cameras (EM1, EM1-2, EM5-2) I used Live View Boost to turn off exposure preview so I could use studio strobes. When I got my current EM1-3 I finally discovered the S-OVF (Simulated Optical Viewfinder) feature which does the same thing but can be assigned to a function button to toggle on or off. This is convenient if I'm, say, switching back and forth between strobe and natural light during a portrait session. Every camera maker has a different name for their S-OVF function (Nikon calls it "Apply settings to Live View" and Fuji calls it "Preview Exp/WB in manual mode") so a bit of detective work is often needed to find it when setting up a non-Olympus camera.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Thank you, thank you, thank you !!!!
You are so welcome!
Thank you for this most useful explanation. Previously I had tried it but could not understand what was happening, so switched it off. I am using flash in a dark studio.
Is there any way that the screen can be made to show that LV is switched on, to remind me that what I see is not what I shall get?
Which camera do you have?
Good example on of live view boost
Thanks, Mark..
Rob, is there any way to turn live view boost off for the Bulb/Time setting? Excellent explanation re Manual mode, many thanks.
Thank you for addressing this issue , for years i did not know this till now i watched your video, also on the same page it says Histogram settings , can you please elaborate what settings should i put
Happy to help!
Helpful video. Is that function available on OM1?
It’s different on the OM1. LV mode is either Standard where shooting settings like exposure compensation are applied or S-OVF ( Simulated Optical Viewfinder? )where it’s like an optical viewfinder and no shooting settings applied, i.e. like ON1 in Rob’s video. There is a separate setting called Night Vision which is either On or Off. I guess that’s like ON2 in Rob’s video.
It's called Night Vision on the OM-1. It combines On1 & On2. It's in the "Gear" menu page 3.Live View.
do you have any video on digicam hype and what is your view on that insanity?
Thanks for your explanation. Now I can reach "what you see is what you get" with Boost OFF in manual mode. But in S mode, the brightness of display won't change with the change of shutter speed (fixed ISO, S-OVF turned off). Are there some things I missed out?
Hi, Bryan. Sorry for the late reply. I don't know of any other settings that would affect the live view. Just keep in mind that the live view is limited to showing exposures within +/- 3EV. So if your EV meter is blinking, you will not see the correct exposure on the screen. Also, the live view doesn't work well in low light, so that's why Live View Boost was created.
I am having very, very real difficulties with using my Pen Fs in manual mode ( whilst my images are far from perfect) as when manually setting exposure, aperture and shutter speeds, the end results are often mega over/ but mainly underexposed !!
It may be that I have inadvertently made some menu setting which is causing these problems, I did not have in the past ???
Will make the menu change suggested by you and , fingers crossed, my manual setting lead to properly exposed images, as shown by the histogram which I rely on as well as making relevant adjustments to iso, aperture and shutter speed. As with my Pen F automatically setting the iso at 200, which I only found out several years ago when viewing one of your typically helpful videos', I trust I have found the problem- it is just so maddening when you have been able, more or less, to get manual settings right and then the whole process goes up in smoke- my anger level is very, very high .
I understand. Just keep an eye on your EV meter and any settings that are blinking.
I use the OM 1. I have the same problem addressed here, but there is no live view boost. This problem crops up when I shoot at night. Can you help?
On the OM-1, it's called night vision. Go into the gear menu -> Live View -> Night Vision.
great video, i finally found the proper setting ... cheers and happy new 2024 (●'◡'●)
🥰🥰🥰🥰
Thanks!
Thank you!