Thanks! When you showed exposing to the left, it actually resulted in dark blue bars appearing on the left side of the histogram along with blue color showing shadow clipping on the picture.
just bought a second hand omd 5mk3, but thanks to wonderful british weather, haven't had a chance to shoot for 2 weeks... so I've been devouring your videos like crazy! thank you so much for all this great content.. it would have taken me years to figure these out on my own! much appreciated!
Thank you Rob for yet another highly informative look @ histograms on the Olympus. I do use it and did wonder (but never bothered to find more about) the strange green bits in the histogram
Talk about timing. I was playing around with my EM1 yesterday and I was wondering what that extra little green part was. I do find the histograms helpful, so thank you for the extra info.
Thank you Rob for a very informative video. I was not aware that the histogram represented what was being seen in live view rather than the actual exposure. Now I know, I will take that into consideration.
A fantastic idea for a new series Rob, I always learn something new from your tutorials. In this case, I hadn't noticed there was a red bar. Being colour blind, I just thought it was a darker bar, now when I look closer I can tell it's red. I would have loved to be able to change it to blue, I'm good with blue. I wonder if the green area is based on the metering area, like "spot", I must have a play later. I think they could have stretched the histogram to go edge-to-edge and therefore give more resolution for "old" eyes, like mine. So, thanks from Wales and keep on doing what you're doing.
Great content Rob. Histogram helps in cutting down on any touchups in post. For me I have no desire to set in front of a laptop. Olympus does an amazing job in doing most if not all the processing in camera and frees me up to focus on the creative process. And your channel helps me in manuvering all the menus so I can get to the magic! All the best!
Hi Rob. Useful clip on histograms. Never use Live View Boost as I like to see exactly the exposure I will obtain. This is essential for me doing wildlife photography where the situation can change dramatically from say dark ground to sky shots in a split second !! I just got back from an amazing trip to the Danube Delta in Romania and off to Madeira shortly where I will be using a Polarising Filter for the first time to hopefully shoot Dolphins and Whales. Not sure if you have done a video clip on the use of Polarising Filters ??
Thanks. I don't think I have made a video about polarizers. I use them time to time for wet plants and blue skies. I just turn them until I see the effect I want in the evf.
I like this series, and I look forward to seeing more. BTW I had no idea what that internal histogram was. I didn't even think to check! BTW you don't need the intro sequence. It doesn't serve any purpose. Intro sequences worked for broadcast TV but are pointless for internet videos.
Agree with Karim. If you want an intro it should be really short. Another way is to overlay some text or graphic while you start to explain the topic. What I really like with your videos is that they are very clear and to the point. And without any "this video is sponsored by" ;-)
@@RobTrek I am fine with or without intro, I can skip if I need to watch the video twice anyway. I got my EM10.2 3 years ago to photograph my new born daughter and have learnt to use the camera from your videos, so the old intro brings me memories. Regards.
Rob, you should see a blue bar on the left of the histogram if you clip the shadows just like the orange bar on the right if you clip the highlights. I have to say that the blue doesn't show up as well as the orange.
@@RobTrek Yes, its in the video at the 10:08 mode. When you come out of Live Boost the second time, and are way under exposed, you can see the blue bar in the histogram. It corresponds to all the blue pixels shown in the view.
Hi Rob, just a quick question. How do we submit a question? In brief on your 3 years with EM-10 and Pen F. I noticed on the Pen that you had programed in manual lenses. Do you have a video on how, why and what you use vintage/manual lenses? What you use them for and results? I have an few older Zuiko OM lenses. The 50mm f1.8 and 28mm f2.8 are my favorites. I don't use them that often but would use them more if I could get a good reliable speed booster so the 50 was an actual 50. Or if Olympus could some how do an in camera software 2 x times digital converter in reverse for the vintage lenses, that would be great.
Hi. The comment section here is the best place to leave a general question. I also have a forum robtrek.com/forum where you can leave more details and pictures to help me understand. I have the 50mm and 24mm OM lenses and love them. I don't have any videos specifically about them but you'll see them in use time to time in my vlogs. I think a speedbooster would make the 50mm closer to a 70mm. A reverse teleconverter is physically impossible since the camera would need to see a wider field of view. Your 28mm is effectively a 56mm, so close enough. Hope that helps -Rob
Hi, on my M10 iii there is an exposure method "SPOT HI" (as well as a "Spot SH"). They seem move the exposure of 2 evs (to the right and to the left respectively): are they intended to be used for ETTR and ETTL? If so, how? Thanks in advance.
Thanks. I didn't know the histogram was linked to live boost. Knowing this I will be careful about relying on the histogram. Is the green piece linked to your focus point or really the center?
Great question! It depends on your camera. The E-M10ii will only meter the center but the E-M5ii and higher will meter on the focus point if you have spot meter turned on.
Hi Rob, I have a question for you. I had the live view manual mode in the "on1". Whenever I change a setting, the screen shows up as a normal image. But I under exposed the picture by 3 stops down. Now I took your advice, now the screen will show exactly what the final image will look like. I turned off live boost. Why would you need the live boost on when you know it won't be the same as the screen? I just wanted the live screen to reflect on what changes I had with ISO, shutter and aperture. I was shooting in manual. I do a lot of astrophotography, and I find that this live view on1 or on2 as misleading. I want to see exactly what I will get for a final picture. No surprises! Thank you so much for all of your educational videos, and that teaches me the fundamentals of Olympus cameras. I setup the live view options I use default at image, histogram and the level bar. Do I need to do this for the custom 2 settings? I have that one as shadows and highlights. So all seems to be working, under your simple instructions. Thank you for that video too! Just one other question. Sometimes in the live view, the info toggle goes to a pick a choose list from the camera. Like STD and something else. I had to power on/off to get it to a histogram or regular or shadows and highlights. What can cause that to happen? I'm baffle about that! Sometimes I have to turn off the camera from the scope and go inside the house to get this custom1 or 2 to work consistently. Is it something I did wrong here? Thank you for these great videos. You're the best in Olympus and OM Systems! Your videos are so much better than reading an instruction manual! Thanks, RJ
Hi. The live view boost is to help compose the scene when it's very dark so you can see what's in the frame. Once you compose the shot, you can turn off boost. For your other questions, I need to know which camera you have so I can try and diagnose the problem. Please post as a new comment so I will be sure to see it. Thanks.
Thanks for the tut Rob, I know you have a video on focus bracketing but I am trying to do still life with flash off camera and was looking but can't determine if you have covered this subject, i just recently realized my em5mkll can do in camera bracketing but can't figure out how to set the flash to sync with it, which it probably won't be able to do since its such a rapid sequence any help or thoughts appreciated.
Hi. If you're using an Olympus flash, then the camera will automatically sync the flash with bracketing. If using 3rd party, then you need to set a flash recharge time based on how long it takes the flash to recharge for each cycle. It's basically a way to set a delay between each bracketed shot. I have an old video on this here: ua-cam.com/video/CohZgm8Qj44/v-deo.html
Three questions occurred to me: 1. Is the green area always taken from the center or from your focusing area, which may have been shifted? 2. What is the size of the area from which data is sampled? Does it correlate with focus area size / shape or metering area size? 3. If OMDS adds this information, they must have a use case in mind. I’m am struggling to imagine, how I can use this information to my advantage / to improve my image.
Adding one more conclusion from your video: I should assign live boost to a key. It has its usages (think macro with flash and manual focus) but the potential to fool you. Being able to quickly switch improves the workflow.
Sorry for the late reply. 1. It will sample from the center or the focus point. It depends if your camera can link the spot meter to the focus point. 2. The sample area is roughly 2% of the field of view - center or link to a single focus point - not focus area size. 3. It's a creative choice how to use it. I use it to meter the foreground in strong backlighting or visa-versa. Hope that helps. -Rob
I always use ettr. To reduce noise. So wouldn't errl give more noise? 🤔 Of course if you stack pictures, both modes would be best to use. So you get amazing for and background, as you see with your eyes.
ETTL is primarily to recover highlights. So if you're starting out with the highlights clipping, you'd reduce your exposure to bring them back in without crushing the shadows totally black. However, if you try to recover the shadows, they will be noisier.
When I use the info button, I see a center circle inside a big green square and i have my leveler showing. What is the big white circle and the big green square around it? Thanks.
I'd have to see your screen to be sure, but I'll give it my best guess. The center black circle indicates you're in spot and/or center weighted metering. The big green square is framing the area to magnify the view so if you push the magnify button again, it should punch in to that area to help you verify focus. Check your button menu to see which button is assigned to magnify. I've never seen a white circle, but if you mean a white square, that is the face detect area. Turn off face detect and it should go away. Hope that helps. Let me know. -Rob
I never had a need for a vertical grip and the extra weight offsets the advantages any extra buttons I might use. Hence I'm content with buying extra batteries. The only thing I might consider is the optional AC adapter plug in that grip for continuous use like for time-lapse and astrophotography.
When the "Live View Boost" is turned on, what does the histogram represent? It doesn't correlate to the camera exposure settings and the scene so what does it represent please?
@@RobTrek I see, thank you. Then no need to have it on the LV if the LV boost is on for it serves no purpose and doesn't represent anything that is useful. You are the BEST on UA-cam!!
Good video Rob. Valuable info here!
Thanks, Peter!
Thanks! When you showed exposing to the left, it actually resulted in dark blue bars appearing on the left side of the histogram along with blue color showing shadow clipping on the picture.
Glad it helped! I thought I've seen the blue bar on the left before but as I said in the video, I don't really use the histogram anyway.
Waking up to find a new Rob Trek tutorial is always a good thing. Clear and concise information.
Haha! Thanks, Thomas.
Excelente explicación, saludos desde Buenos Aires Argentina
I always wondered what the green and orange colours meant. Thanks for creating this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I did not know this.
Thanks for watching!
just bought a second hand omd 5mk3, but thanks to wonderful british weather, haven't had a chance to shoot for 2 weeks... so I've been devouring your videos like crazy! thank you so much for all this great content.. it would have taken me years to figure these out on my own! much appreciated!
Thanks. Happy to help!
Great series! I can't wait for more.
Thanks, Richard!
Good clear explanation!
Glad it was helpful!
Well done, Rob.
Thanks, John.
Thanks Rob!
No problem!
Always a good tutorial thank you Rob.
Brilliantly done Rob
Thanks again!
Very helpful to understand live view which may be on by default.
Glad you stuck it out to see that part. Not sure if everyone gets that far. Thanks.
This was an extremely useful and helpful video. Thanks for this.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent presentation, as always.
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you Rob for yet another highly informative look @ histograms on the Olympus. I do use it and did wonder (but never bothered to find more about) the strange green bits in the histogram
Glad to help!
You've just torn my world apart:)
Many thanks)))
Glad ot help!
Great tutorial as usual. Use of the washer is clever and really aids the explanation.
Thanks. Simple props work best sometimes.
Excellent. Thanks for the explanation & demonstration. Looking forward to more.
Glad it was helpful!
Talk about timing. I was playing around with my EM1 yesterday and I was wondering what that extra little green part was. I do find the histograms helpful, so thank you for the extra info.
Glad to help, Irvin. Great timing indeed!
Thanks Rob, very well explained
Thanks!
Thank you Rob for a very informative video.
I was not aware that the histogram represented what was being seen in live view rather than the actual exposure.
Now I know, I will take that into consideration.
Glad to help, Trevor! Thanks.
Really useful Rob. Thanks a lot for making this. Much appreciated. Cheers.
Thanks, Jeff.
Thanks, this was a very good explanation!
Glad it was helpful!
A fantastic idea for a new series Rob, I always learn something new from your tutorials.
In this case, I hadn't noticed there was a red bar.
Being colour blind, I just thought it was a darker bar, now when I look closer I can tell it's red.
I would have loved to be able to change it to blue, I'm good with blue.
I wonder if the green area is based on the metering area, like "spot", I must have a play later.
I think they could have stretched the histogram to go edge-to-edge and therefore give more resolution for "old" eyes, like mine.
So, thanks from Wales and keep on doing what you're doing.
Thanks, Bob! Yes, the green area is like a virtual spot meter.
Once again clear and precise information from the master.
I try. Thanks!
What can i say.The tutorial master at its best.
Thanks, Leon!
Thank you Rob, very informative.
Glad to help, Steve. Thanks!
Very helpfull thanks, rood advice from Peter to watch your video.👍
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much! Very informative, and clear as always.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks.
Very useful feature, I wish my Lumix camera had it.
You and me both!
Hey - I never thought about this!
Thanks, Rod. It's a great little tool for those who use the histogram.
Excellent info, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great content Rob. Histogram helps in cutting down on any touchups in post. For me I have no desire to set in front of a laptop. Olympus does an amazing job in doing most if not all the processing in camera and frees me up to focus on the creative process. And your channel helps me in manuvering all the menus so I can get to the magic! All the best!
Thanks, Rd. I may do a video on the in-camera processing soon.
Useful thanks 👍
Welcome 😊
Hi Rob. Useful clip on histograms. Never use Live View Boost as I like to see exactly the exposure I will obtain. This is essential for me doing wildlife photography where the situation can change dramatically from say dark ground to sky shots in a split second !! I just got back from an amazing trip to the Danube Delta in Romania and off to Madeira shortly where I will be using a Polarising Filter for the first time to hopefully shoot Dolphins and Whales. Not sure if you have done a video clip on the use of Polarising Filters ??
Thanks. I don't think I have made a video about polarizers. I use them time to time for wet plants and blue skies. I just turn them until I see the effect I want in the evf.
I like this series, and I look forward to seeing more. BTW I had no idea what that internal histogram was. I didn't even think to check!
BTW you don't need the intro sequence. It doesn't serve any purpose. Intro sequences worked for broadcast TV but are pointless for internet videos.
Thanks, Karim. Good point about the intro. I'll do a few videos without one and see if anyone notices.
Agree with Karim. If you want an intro it should be really short. Another way is to overlay some text or graphic while you start to explain the topic. What I really like with your videos is that they are very clear and to the point. And without any "this video is sponsored by" ;-)
That is good stuff!!!
Thanks!
Thanks, I had no idea about this green area! I have missed your tutorials about EM10.2. What about the old intro music and screen?
Thanks. I still have the old intro. I'm thinking about dropping the intro altogether. What do you think?
@@RobTrek I am fine with or without intro, I can skip if I need to watch the video twice anyway. I got my EM10.2 3 years ago to photograph my new born daughter and have learnt to use the camera from your videos, so the old intro brings me memories. Regards.
Rob, you should see a blue bar on the left of the histogram if you clip the shadows just like the orange bar on the right if you clip the highlights.
I have to say that the blue doesn't show up as well as the orange.
Thanks. I wasn't able to get it to show in this video on my e-m10ii. But it does show on my other cameras.
@@RobTrek Yes, its in the video at the 10:08 mode. When you come out of Live Boost the second time, and are way under exposed, you can see the blue bar in the histogram. It corresponds to all the blue pixels shown in the view.
Hi Rob, just a quick question. How do we submit a question? In brief on your 3 years with EM-10 and Pen F. I noticed on the Pen that you had programed in manual lenses. Do you have a video on how, why and what you use vintage/manual lenses? What you use them for and results? I have an few older Zuiko OM lenses. The 50mm f1.8 and 28mm f2.8 are my favorites. I don't use them that often but would use them more if I could get a good reliable speed booster so the 50 was an actual 50. Or if Olympus could some how do an in camera software 2 x times digital converter in reverse for the vintage lenses, that would be great.
Hi. The comment section here is the best place to leave a general question. I also have a forum robtrek.com/forum where you can leave more details and pictures to help me understand. I have the 50mm and 24mm OM lenses and love them. I don't have any videos specifically about them but you'll see them in use time to time in my vlogs. I think a speedbooster would make the 50mm closer to a 70mm. A reverse teleconverter is physically impossible since the camera would need to see a wider field of view. Your 28mm is effectively a 56mm, so close enough. Hope that helps -Rob
Hi, on my M10 iii there is an exposure method "SPOT HI" (as well as a "Spot SH"). They seem move the exposure of 2 evs (to the right and to the left respectively): are they intended to be used for ETTR and ETTL? If so, how? Thanks in advance.
I have a video on Spot Hi/Lo here: ua-cam.com/video/Owd9GV6tmi0/v-deo.html
Thanks. I didn't know the histogram was linked to live boost. Knowing this I will be careful about relying on the histogram. Is the green piece linked to your focus point or really the center?
Great question! It depends on your camera. The E-M10ii will only meter the center but the E-M5ii and higher will meter on the focus point if you have spot meter turned on.
Hi Rob, I have a question for you. I had the live view manual mode in the "on1". Whenever I change a setting, the screen shows up as a normal image. But I under exposed the picture by 3 stops down.
Now I took your advice, now the screen will show exactly what the final image will look like. I turned off live boost. Why would you need the live boost on when you know it won't be the same as the screen?
I just wanted the live screen to reflect on what changes I had with ISO, shutter and aperture. I was shooting in manual. I do a lot of astrophotography, and I find that this live view on1 or on2 as misleading. I want to see exactly what I will get for a final picture. No surprises!
Thank you so much for all of your educational videos, and that teaches me the fundamentals of Olympus cameras. I setup the live view options I use default at image, histogram and the level bar. Do I need to do this for the custom 2 settings?
I have that one as shadows and highlights. So all seems to be working, under your simple instructions. Thank you for that video too!
Just one other question. Sometimes in the live view, the info toggle goes to a pick a choose list from the camera. Like STD and something else. I had to power on/off to get it to a histogram or regular or shadows and highlights. What can cause that to happen? I'm baffle about that!
Sometimes I have to turn off the camera from the scope and go inside the house to get this custom1 or 2 to work consistently.
Is it something I did wrong here?
Thank you for these great videos. You're the best in Olympus and OM Systems! Your videos are so much better than reading an instruction manual!
Thanks,
RJ
Hi. The live view boost is to help compose the scene when it's very dark so you can see what's in the frame. Once you compose the shot, you can turn off boost. For your other questions, I need to know which camera you have so I can try and diagnose the problem. Please post as a new comment so I will be sure to see it. Thanks.
Thanks for the tut Rob, I know you have a video on focus bracketing but I am trying to do still life with flash off camera and was looking but can't determine if you have covered this subject, i just recently realized my em5mkll can do in camera bracketing but can't figure out how to set the flash to sync with it, which it probably won't be able to do since its such a rapid sequence any help or thoughts appreciated.
Hi. If you're using an Olympus flash, then the camera will automatically sync the flash with bracketing. If using 3rd party, then you need to set a flash recharge time based on how long it takes the flash to recharge for each cycle. It's basically a way to set a delay between each bracketed shot. I have an old video on this here: ua-cam.com/video/CohZgm8Qj44/v-deo.html
Three questions occurred to me:
1. Is the green area always taken from the center or from your focusing area, which may have been shifted?
2. What is the size of the area from which data is sampled? Does it correlate with focus area size / shape or metering area size?
3. If OMDS adds this information, they must have a use case in mind. I’m am struggling to imagine, how I can use this information to my advantage / to improve my image.
Adding one more conclusion from your video: I should assign live boost to a key. It has its usages (think macro with flash and manual focus) but the potential to fool you. Being able to quickly switch improves the workflow.
Sorry for the late reply.
1. It will sample from the center or the focus point. It depends if your camera can link the spot meter to the focus point.
2. The sample area is roughly 2% of the field of view - center or link to a single focus point - not focus area size.
3. It's a creative choice how to use it. I use it to meter the foreground in strong backlighting or visa-versa.
Hope that helps. -Rob
I always use ettr. To reduce noise. So wouldn't errl give more noise? 🤔 Of course if you stack pictures, both modes would be best to use. So you get amazing for and background, as you see with your eyes.
ETTL is primarily to recover highlights. So if you're starting out with the highlights clipping, you'd reduce your exposure to bring them back in without crushing the shadows totally black. However, if you try to recover the shadows, they will be noisier.
When I use the info button, I see a center circle inside a big green square and i have my leveler showing.
What is the big white circle and the big green square around it?
Thanks.
I'd have to see your screen to be sure, but I'll give it my best guess. The center black circle indicates you're in spot and/or center weighted metering. The big green square is framing the area to magnify the view so if you push the magnify button again, it should punch in to that area to help you verify focus. Check your button menu to see which button is assigned to magnify. I've never seen a white circle, but if you mean a white square, that is the face detect area. Turn off face detect and it should go away. Hope that helps. Let me know. -Rob
Is the HL-7 grip worth buying Rob? Extra Fn button,s etc, good for portrait work or just buy a spare battery?
I never had a need for a vertical grip and the extra weight offsets the advantages any extra buttons I might use. Hence I'm content with buying extra batteries. The only thing I might consider is the optional AC adapter plug in that grip for continuous use like for time-lapse and astrophotography.
When the "Live View Boost" is turned on, what does the histogram represent? It doesn't correlate to the camera exposure settings and the scene so what does it represent please?
It represents the exposure at 0 ev or what is currently displaying in the live view which may not be the actual exposure.
@@RobTrek In other words it represents exposure without all of the changes made to the exposure settings on the camera? What is that useful for ?
@@BurhanMuntasser The histogram is no use when live view boost in on or if you under/over expose by more thant +/- 3ev.
@@RobTrek I see, thank you. Then no need to have it on the LV if the LV boost is on for it serves no purpose and doesn't represent anything that is useful.
You are the BEST on UA-cam!!