Thanks for this video. About to have my n52 cleaned up professionally, and I worried about the alusil honing. Hope you’re still doing great work like this. God bless you.
Very nice job! I have honda cbr 954 rr alusil blok that needs too be bore out .25mm, if i got this right, 400 i 600 grid stone to bore out and an 30 paste for finish to expose silicone particles right? So if i need 75.25mm bore, 600 grid stone to that measure and then an 30?
Assuming that all alusil is the same, basically that is correct. If you're first boring the cyls to get close to finish size, bore to 75.20mm, leaving .05mm to hone (assuming you get a very smooth bore finish). Hone with 400 grit (10 degree crosshatch or less) until you are .0012mm from finish size, leaving the last .0012mm for the 600. Let the block cool between each process, it'll shrink even with a constant oil bath. Check your size often, the material removal is fairly quick during honing. Use 600 grit to finish size, again with very little stroking. Use the AN30 for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. I don't recommend doing this without a profilometer as the final Ra value is critical, and each step needs to be correct for the next step to be correct. But I'm sure there are plenty of shops that do it without one. Good luck.
Big thanks for respond, problem is in my country, no one does alusil recondition, only solution is cast iron, what do you think for iron liners in motorcycle engines? Can they work good? I asked for alusil recondition procedure because i have no other choice than do it myself
Also, an 30 cant pass my country's customs, i seen somewhere, one gay used valve laping paste instead an 30? Can that work or is joke? 1200 grid valve laping paste contains silicone carbide
Do you happen to know of any machine shops in western US that are you contemporaries in that they will machine alusil blocks? I am having a difficult time finding someone in Colorado to do this work.
ok so what i understand is that if the cylinders are in perfect shape and the alusil lining is in perfect shape then i do not need a standard typical cross hatch honing????
The last thing you want to do is touch it with anything other than the special 600 grit stones, followed by reconditioning of the walls with the silicon paste. You either do that or leave it alone.
There is no coating. Alusil is a high silicone content aluminum, it's the same throughout. It's not like nikasil, which is a thin layer applied to the bores.
Where was this last december when I blew up my m62tu and then replaced it????? Would have been way more fun to just rebuild the whole thing :D Maybe next year I can afford a project
Looking rates on boring a BMW M62 from stock bore size to 0.5mm oversized. Just the machining process as shipping rates change so quickly and dramatically.
I am retiring so am not taking in any new work. The new owner will do strictly BMW motors but only complete motors as I understand it, not partial jobs. On a side note though, do you have a source for .5mm pistons and rings?
I had always understood that the parent material is etched away with either an acid or caustic solution and potentially electric current in an electrolyte and that afterwards the remaining silica at the surface is diamond honed to size and roughness. This is quite a different approach, which seems to work well and is much simpler! Could you give some feedback about this? Are you familiar with the other described method(s)
He said Nikasil once, but meant Alusil. It's my understanding that Nikasil uses the caustic/electrolytic process. Alusil is done this simple way. What he is doing is exactly what is shown in Mercedes Service Manual V8 engines (1989 edition).
I’m happy to hear you’re retired but that definitely sucks for us with a alusil block. Do you happen to have anyone in the industry that you know would be reliable and trustworthy in doing a block? I’m only 2hrs from you (north of Charlotte NC).
@@TheOne48815 I have a guy who just did one for me, (Southern California) but…I am going to have another machine shop test the R.A with the profilometer and bore dimensions to verify it is within specifications, we bored it to fit new 92.486 MM pistons from BMW as the bore had taper and out of round wear. (N62B44) She should be all freshened up now, the work looks great has that dull matte finish; However, we trust but verify.
I stumbled on your video about Alusil blocks and I was wondering if this is how my 87 Mercedes-Benz 560SL is made. I’ve never rebuilt an engine until now. I’m working on a 560SL & tore the engine down this past week. After removing the heads I found a couple of long scratches in #4 cylinder. I’m I not sure what options I have. Is honing enough? I just posted a video showing what I found. I would be interested in hearing what you thought. ua-cam.com/video/VwGMKS5E-Mo/v-deo.html Thanks again for posting your video.
I've personally never done a Mercedes block like yours but I'm fairly certain that it's the same process, both being German products. The key is getting the final profilometer numbers in the range that the manufacturer wants.
Thanks for having actual useful content on UA-cam!
Your welcome. Probably wont be any more useful content, I'm retiring.
Thanks for this video. About to have my n52 cleaned up professionally, and I worried about the alusil honing. Hope you’re still doing great work like this. God bless you.
Very nice job!
I have honda cbr 954 rr alusil blok that needs too be bore out .25mm, if i got this right, 400 i 600 grid stone to bore out and an 30 paste for finish to expose silicone particles right? So if i need 75.25mm bore, 600 grid stone to that measure and then an 30?
Assuming that all alusil is the same, basically that is correct. If you're first boring the cyls to get close to finish size, bore to 75.20mm, leaving .05mm to hone (assuming you get a very smooth bore finish). Hone with 400 grit (10 degree crosshatch or less) until you are .0012mm from finish size, leaving the last .0012mm for the 600. Let the block cool between each process, it'll shrink even with a constant oil bath. Check your size often, the material removal is fairly quick during honing. Use 600 grit to finish size, again with very little stroking. Use the AN30 for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. I don't recommend doing this without a profilometer as the final Ra value is critical, and each step needs to be correct for the next step to be correct. But I'm sure there are plenty of shops that do it without one. Good luck.
Big thanks for respond, problem is in my country, no one does alusil recondition, only solution is cast iron, what do you think for iron liners in motorcycle engines? Can they work good? I asked for alusil recondition procedure because i have no other choice than do it myself
Also, an 30 cant pass my country's customs, i seen somewhere, one gay used valve laping paste instead an 30? Can that work or is joke? 1200 grid valve laping paste contains silicone carbide
@@racing0eagle AN30 has no grit, lapping compound probably does, I would think it would scratch the bores pretty badly
You accidentally said nicasil early on, but this is a great video especially with using the RA reading
I noticed that as well. These are definitely not a nikasil block. Everything else he’s right on par!! The man knows what he is talking about for sure!
what type of 400 and 600 stones are used in the honing process?
Do you happen to know of any machine shops in western US that are you contemporaries in that they will machine alusil blocks? I am having a difficult time finding someone in Colorado to do this work.
Sorry, can't say that I do. I have a couple of contacts on the west coast, ill ask them. But most shops won't touch alusil.
@@motion24527 I would love to know the West Coast contacts 🙏
Very interesting, i think a secret that was kept a secret for too long has been busted :-)
ok so what i understand is that if the cylinders are in perfect shape and the alusil lining is in perfect shape then i do not need a standard typical cross hatch honing????
The last thing you want to do is touch it with anything other than the special 600 grit stones, followed by reconditioning of the walls with the silicon paste. You either do that or leave it alone.
Is the alusil coating removed after honing the block ? .
There is no coating. Alusil is a high silicone content aluminum, it's the same throughout. It's not like nikasil, which is a thin layer applied to the bores.
@@motion24527 Thank you sir .
Where was this last december when I blew up my m62tu and then replaced it????? Would have been way more fun to just rebuild the whole thing :D Maybe next year I can afford a project
Looking rates on boring a BMW M62 from stock bore size to 0.5mm oversized. Just the machining process as shipping rates change so quickly and dramatically.
I am retiring so am not taking in any new work. The new owner will do strictly BMW motors but only complete motors as I understand it, not partial jobs. On a side note though, do you have a source for .5mm pistons and rings?
@@motion24527 Yes, JE Piston makes them up to 1.0mm over. They ARE pricey, but available.
Thank you for the information and have a great retirement.
Thanks
I had always understood that the parent material is etched away with either an acid or caustic solution and potentially electric current in an electrolyte and that afterwards the remaining silica at the surface is diamond honed to size and roughness. This is quite a different approach, which seems to work well and is much simpler! Could you give some feedback about this? Are you familiar with the other described method(s)
He said Nikasil once, but meant Alusil. It's my understanding that Nikasil uses the caustic/electrolytic process. Alusil is done this simple way. What he is doing is exactly what is shown in Mercedes Service Manual V8 engines (1989 edition).
@@beryllium1932 nikasil is a plating process, additive.
Hi where do you have your shop
Ive sold my shop but it is now BMW only. New business name is Partee Racing.
Should apply to a Porsche Cayenne S V8?
I have an N62 v8 block I would like to send to you, how can I contact you?
Sorry, but I am semi retired now and cannot take on any new customers.
I’m happy to hear you’re retired but that definitely sucks for us with a alusil block. Do you happen to have anyone in the industry that you know would be reliable and trustworthy in doing a block? I’m only 2hrs from you (north of Charlotte NC).
@@TheOne48815 I have a guy who just did one for me, (Southern California) but…I am going to have another machine shop test the R.A with the profilometer and bore dimensions to verify it is within specifications, we bored it to fit new 92.486 MM pistons from BMW as the bore had taper and out of round wear. (N62B44) She should be all freshened up now, the work looks great has that dull matte finish; However, we trust but verify.
@@MechaniclifeJDM How did the work turn out?I could use somebody on the west coast as Im in Utah
@@chrisstevens3801 Excellent he was 100% on the money, he even gave me a strict break in process to follow
Where dho you work, I'm keep you busy
I stumbled on your video about Alusil blocks and I was wondering if this is how my 87 Mercedes-Benz 560SL is made. I’ve never rebuilt an engine until now. I’m working on a 560SL & tore the engine down this past week. After removing the heads I found a couple of long scratches in #4 cylinder. I’m I not sure what options I have. Is honing enough? I just posted a video showing what I found. I would be interested in hearing what you thought.
ua-cam.com/video/VwGMKS5E-Mo/v-deo.html
Thanks again for posting your video.
I've personally never done a Mercedes block like yours but I'm fairly certain that it's the same process, both being German products. The key is getting the final profilometer numbers in the range that the manufacturer wants.
hello, I would like to ask you a question in private, could you write your email so I can get in touch with you, thanks
Sorry but I've sold my shop and retired