Every now and then Steven you get one of these "brain teaser" troubleshooting problems. The worst part is you give 110% on every job to do the best job you can and the homeowner probably thinks you should have found this on your first visit when you already identified 2-3 other failures! It's a thankless job!! Your an awesome mechanic Steven, and your father and Murray would be proud! Thanks for sharing.
Brad1237202 i was surprised to see the wafer restrictor in the coil . they did come with some of these peerless boilers but most guys never installed them because of this reasion . it coil of been a blocked coil also you just never know .
Always pre-filter water to a boiler to keep an eye on incoming water...even on a recirc side. I don't care what the engineers and experts say. The filters break down under temp but I would rather replace a filter than a boiler! Thanks for the videos, Steve!! I Love School!! LOL!!
You caught a break I thought it was some of the problems that we have here. When I see that a lot it's usually the hot water line is filled with calcium. Good thing that wasn't the issue with your repair.
I have a similar set up in my house. The flow between hot and cold is equal. The pipes exiting the coil are very hot to the touch. But the hot water isn't that hot upstairs in the bathroom or kitchen. Yet, in the winter time when the boiler is heating the house. It's too hot. Could this be the mixing valve? The aqua stat ? The unit it approximately 16 years old.
Its Kenny Correia I had a problem with a new peerless tankless and it was a calcified piece that got lodged in the thankless. I couldn't get it out. I had to replace the thankless. But it acted the same as that flow restrictor issue.
Thanks Steven, I believe you have solved my problem. I have a small 6 gallon electric water heater. First it was dripping. I shut off the breaker and water in. Two days later turned both back on and no water flow out. This is in Costa Rica where hot water in homes is rare. And contributing water shutoffs with pressure and sediment when turned back on. One additional question on the flow restricter. Does it by chance incorporate a zinc sacrificial anode? I have run into those especially on RV hot water heaters. Due dissimilar metals electrolysis eats the metal and the zinc best to take that abuse, Good video. Much appreciated. I will be working on it tomorrow and see if this guess correct.
Nice job Steve! These flippin engineers who put flow restrictions on the inlet side. Private wells, almost always have hard water what are they thinking$$$$$
no wouldn't help, it the minerals in the water the build up, if you have hard water install a top line water softener on your mail line after your well pump or water meter, don't bother drilling it, just take it out from day one, all heat exchanges by MFG RECAMEND BACK FLUSHING ONCE A YEAR WITH A GOOD DESCALER LKE DARIY CLEAN
We have well water and I have noticed a need to occasionally clean sediment out of the little screens in the faucets and also the clothes washing machine. I was wondering if sediment, in addition to mineral deposits, could clog up the HW coil.
if you have a Sears store there, take a water sample into there hardware department ask them to do a mineral test on the sample, make sure it is a clean throw away bottle, they will tell you what softener you need,,, also every year take a sample into your heath unit,, as well, its all free in Canada anyway, if the leavals are to high for a sears model you will have to go to a water supply equipment store
I have a hot water boiler run from Oil. What would cause it to heat the water, then shut off completely? If I press the restart button it will immediately fire up an heat the tanks worth of water, but after that it stays off. My roommate is an idiot and I saw water in the basement 2 days ago, he said he was draining the water to get all air from the lines, (no idea if that was even true)problem is there is one pipe temporary held together in basement right now it froze and burst last week. Once that was patched hot water was still working fine, just since he drained the tank down 2 days ago... now I can only get a minute worth of hot water before reset has to be pressed again. Not good for the shower!
Hey Steve, What would prevent an indirect water heater from having this same problem? I have hard/well water. Same boiler as in this video.. Boiler was installed in 2018. Coil clogged in 2 years. I replaced it. And a year later now I’m starting to see the reduced hot water flow like I did before. I want to go the indirect route now, but afraid of having the same issue again. Also, I have a functioning water softener system but I guess it’s not good enough lol. Appreciate your input. And the time you take making these videos. They’ve helped and taught me a ton 👍
Tankless water heater, Electric heaters (with or without a tank) do have a filter at the inlet (water in). The filter needs to be clean often and as needed. If it gets damaged during replacement then a new one will be needed. Don't be scare of just brushing it, it will safe you time and money. Yes, the removal is considered a service (fee) that needs to be included on the maintenance of the water heater. So, For Gas water heaters: flame sensing clean, water flow signal test, thermal safety switch test and filter clean is part of the maintenance. Just like a furnace but on a water heater.
That disc in the coil was a bad design , the best way to keep your coil from clogging up is with a water softener . Also right before the water softener inlet I install two whole house filters ,the first with a five micron cartridge , the second with a charcoal cartridge. Never a problem.55 year retired plumber.
Steven is there a way to contact you directly. I live in area where there are t many ppl with experience dealing with boilers and just want to pick your brain. My heat works but hot water temperature for domestic water is not working. Water flow is fine as well.
ON THE NYT UNITS THEY DONT HAVE ANY flow control on that coil, I always install boiler valves on both the feed and the return as well as a ball valve on the lower side of the Boiler valves, to clean the coils out as they get a small amount of iron and other mineral deposits on the inside of the coils, weather or not its a domestic hot water coil, a pool heat exchanger, a water to water bronze heat exchanger or a water to air heat exchanger, a lot of times it plugs them right up, and they are costly to replace, iv never replaced one this way, I use a product called dairy clean concentrate, I mix it with water in a pail. I CONECT washing machine hoses to my pump to the return line onto the boiler valve, and anther hose on the feed side in to my pail, and put the pick up hose from the pump into the pail of dairy clean mix and turn the pump on to back flush the coil, I let it run for 5 to 10 manumits, close off the 2 down line ball valves turn the pump off and let the dairy clean sit in the coils for 10 to 20 manumit to brake up the scale, then run the pump again to back flush again, if its domestic water I reverse the hoses and pump fresh water though to clean out the dairy clean even though it says it is not harmful, after I'm done o close the boiler valves and re-open the down line ball valves I closed before I started, I do this for low flow as well as loss of steady hot water on a boiler like this, a broses water to water exchanger, water to air and so one,, any time I install any appliance or have to cut any pipes another installer put in, I reinstall with unions ( MAKE SURE YOU BUY TOP LINE UNIONS AND VALVES FROM A PLUMBING WHOLSALER, ONES FROM BOXS STORES LIKE THEREE VALVES LEACK LIKE A SIVE IN TIME, PAY THE EXTRA, OR PAY IT AGAIN LATER) to make it easier the next time. I also install cross over line with a ball valve, so I am not shutting the whole building down wile I am working on one appliance, each cross over takes 3 ball valves if your not understanding a cross over, many don't. Note: all MFG recommend you back flush any heat exchanger once a year to keep them working 110% all the time ( as long as you can force a trickle of water or air though the exchanger the dairy clean will rip it out. YOU WILL BE AMAZED AT HOW MUCH HEAT IS LOST WITH JUST A VERY THIN COATING OF DEPOSITS ON THE INSIDE OF A COIL OR PLATE EXCHANNGER, THINK OF YOUR DRIP COFFE MAKERS HOW IT SLOWS DOWN, USE DARIY CLEAN ON IT TOO... good vids man, wish I had the time to video even some of the stuff I do, I just don't have time with all the editing, I done a few, but they mess up my whole 12 hour days
Hi Steve, I have the same boiler. I sprung a leak on one of the fittings that comes out of the hot side of the tankless coil, and it looks like the nipple broke. Can I take the rest of the nipple out with an extractor and do you recommend using a torch?
steven lavimoniere Ah. Ok. I don't see that out here. We have tank less water heaters, but this one is dual purpose. Very few people have the tank less out here. Thank you Steve.
Andrea Echevarria as tankless get older they will start to lime up in side and preduce less hot water .sometimes adding a shut off to the cold inlet to the tempering valve helps so you can cut back the cold mix to give more coil water to fixures .with out mixing it with cold . after 11 years you might have to make adjustments soon
Michael Padovani no this was a odd.bad design flow control that came in a bag with the boiler . if the guy was smart he would of thrown in out and used a external one
nate peerless boilers /flowcontrol it came in a seprate bag to be installed by the installer bad design .they only can through in these peerless boilers for a short time ,first one i have come across ,but i way told about them .when i picked up a replacement coil . that might be the problem from the suppler i was not sure till i pulled it apart to look .
yeah that does seem like a piss poor design part.. anyway, it was damned smart of you to look at that first in your troubleshooting.. thats the difference between experience and wannabes. good vid,, vids like that teach folks if they want to learn
Kestrel is that you larry?? peerless use to send out that flow control out with some boilers .i have herd i never seen one like this before bad design i would say .if i need a flow control i just use a ball valve set it and take the handle off
those discs we're a poor design steve . the engineer that came up with that idea obviously had no idea how piss poor they would be after a period of time . that's what happens when people who have never worked in the field try to design things that have no practical purpose . not much thought went into that design .
Every now and then Steven you get one of these "brain teaser" troubleshooting problems. The worst part is you give 110% on every job to do the best job you can and the homeowner probably thinks you should have found this on your first visit when you already identified 2-3 other failures! It's a thankless job!! Your an awesome mechanic Steven, and your father and Murray would be proud! Thanks for sharing.
Brad1237202 i was surprised to see the wafer restrictor in the coil . they did come with some of these peerless boilers but most guys never installed them because of this reasion . it coil of been a blocked coil also you just never know .
Always pre-filter water to a boiler to keep an eye on incoming water...even on a recirc side. I don't care what the engineers and experts say. The filters break down under temp but I would rather replace a filter than a boiler! Thanks for the videos, Steve!! I Love School!! LOL!!
You caught a break I thought it was some of the problems that we have here. When I see that a lot it's usually the hot water line is filled with calcium. Good thing that wasn't the issue with your repair.
First Choice Service LLC ( StL MO) i didn;t know if it was blocked or what i was glad i was able to find and fix the problem for her
Thank you very much it was more than an eye opener you saved me $$ and a worthless call to the maintenance repair man for assistance
Man that sucks that you had a call back for something so minor. Thanks for posting. This is something we all can take notes on for future reference
bear maintenance a blockage can be anywere this one was a surprice
Good Job Steve, No more cold showers, One HAPPY customer. Something so small can cause such a problem. You just never know.
Arnie Grote i did not expect to see the tiny flow restictor in there ..
Great job Steve, nice repair very interesting, every day is a school day
drummerdem50 yes every day is a school day
Hi i have no hot water coming out do you think the coil is clogged. On burham boiler. Can you help me on that
I have never seen a relief valve on a domestic line like that, pretty neat
Great job. Nice tip on the slip coupling, with pliers.
octaviano mora i use slip coupling a lot if the pipe will not spread apart
Nice. Instead of messing with channel lock pliers, I use a 14 mm open end wrench to tap the slip coupling into place.
I have a similar set up in my house. The flow between hot and cold is equal. The pipes exiting the coil are very hot to the touch. But the hot water isn't that hot upstairs in the bathroom or kitchen. Yet, in the winter time when the boiler is heating the house. It's too hot. Could this be the mixing valve? The aqua stat ? The unit it approximately 16 years old.
Its Kenny Correia I had a problem with a new peerless tankless and it was a calcified piece that got lodged in the thankless. I couldn't get it out. I had to replace the thankless. But it acted the same as that flow restrictor issue.
Kestrel thats what i though it was .. a blockage in the coil . but i got lucky on this one for now
Will adding a anti scold valve help with wasting hot water to the Showers and still maintain temp? We always run out of HW. TY
Thanks Steven, I believe you have solved my problem. I have a small 6 gallon electric water heater. First it was dripping. I shut off the breaker and water in. Two days later turned both back on and no water flow out. This is in Costa Rica where hot water in homes is rare. And contributing water shutoffs with pressure and sediment when turned back on. One additional question on the flow restricter. Does it by chance incorporate a zinc sacrificial anode? I have run into those especially on RV hot water heaters. Due dissimilar metals electrolysis eats the metal and the zinc best to take that abuse, Good video. Much appreciated. I will be working on it tomorrow and see if this guess correct.
I appreciate sharing Steve always learning from you
Great message again.. .. thanks Robert jr NJ here Asbury Park.
That restrictor probably slowed the water down enough to get heated properly
Wow .. your always the savior.. I’m having this exact issue
Nice job Steve! These flippin engineers who put flow restrictions on the inlet side. Private wells, almost always have hard water what are they thinking$$$$$
Good video...info regarding the slip coupling was helpful too.
Patrick Harris thanks for watching
Would a filter of some kind on the cold water feed prevent or slow down this process? Could you drill out most of that brass flow control?
no wouldn't help, it the minerals in the water the build up, if you have hard water install a top line water softener on your mail line after your well pump or water meter, don't bother drilling it, just take it out from day one, all heat exchanges by MFG RECAMEND BACK FLUSHING ONCE A YEAR WITH A GOOD DESCALER LKE DARIY CLEAN
We have well water and I have noticed a need to occasionally clean sediment out of the little screens in the faucets and also the clothes washing machine. I was wondering if sediment, in addition to mineral deposits, could clog up the HW coil.
if you have a Sears store there, take a water sample into there hardware department ask them to do a mineral test on the sample, make sure it is a clean throw away bottle, they will tell you what softener you need,,, also every year take a sample into your heath unit,, as well, its all free in Canada anyway, if the leavals are to high for a sears model you will have to go to a water supply equipment store
I have a hot water boiler run from Oil. What would cause it to heat the water, then shut off completely? If I press the restart button it will immediately fire up an heat the tanks worth of water, but after that it stays off. My roommate is an idiot and I saw water in the basement 2 days ago, he said he was draining the water to get all air from the lines, (no idea if that was even true)problem is there is one pipe temporary held together in basement right now it froze and burst last week. Once that was patched hot water was still working fine, just since he drained the tank down 2 days ago... now I can only get a minute worth of hot water before reset has to be pressed again. Not good for the shower!
Hey Steve, What would prevent an indirect water heater from having this same problem? I have hard/well water. Same boiler as in this video.. Boiler was installed in 2018. Coil clogged in 2 years. I replaced it. And a year later now I’m starting to see the reduced hot water flow like I did before. I want to go the indirect route now, but afraid of having the same issue again. Also, I have a functioning water softener system but I guess it’s not good enough lol.
Appreciate your input. And the time you take making these videos. They’ve helped and taught me a ton 👍
Correction, it was only 1 year time that I replaced the coil.
Tankless water heater, Electric heaters (with or without a tank) do have a filter at the inlet (water in). The filter needs to be clean often and as needed. If it gets damaged during replacement then a new one will be needed.
Don't be scare of just brushing it, it will safe you time and money.
Yes, the removal is considered a service (fee) that needs to be included on the maintenance of the water heater.
So, For Gas water heaters: flame sensing clean, water flow signal test, thermal safety switch test and filter clean is part of the maintenance. Just like a furnace but on a water heater.
That disc in the coil was a bad design , the best way to keep your coil from clogging up is with a water softener . Also right before the water softener inlet I install two whole house filters ,the first with a five micron cartridge , the second with a charcoal cartridge. Never a problem.55 year retired plumber.
hey Steve ,put this video on full screen and this camera you have shows a really clean video , and as always good job!
kevin kellner its a good camera it should show up well
Steven do you have a Favorite brand of flux and solder?
Steve, Nice find and repair
S Sam odd find for sure ..
Steven is there a way to contact you directly. I live in area where there are t many ppl with experience dealing with boilers and just want to pick your brain. My heat works but hot water temperature for domestic water is not working. Water flow is fine as well.
ON THE NYT UNITS THEY DONT HAVE ANY flow control on that coil, I always install boiler valves on both the feed and the return as well as a ball valve on the lower side of the Boiler valves, to clean the coils out as they get a small amount of iron and other mineral deposits on the inside of the coils, weather or not its a domestic hot water coil, a pool heat exchanger, a water to water bronze heat exchanger or a water to air heat exchanger, a lot of times it plugs them right up, and they are costly to replace, iv never replaced one this way, I use a product called dairy clean concentrate, I mix it with water in a pail. I CONECT washing machine hoses to my pump to the return line onto the boiler valve, and anther hose on the feed side in to my pail, and put the pick up hose from the pump into the pail of dairy clean mix and turn the pump on to back flush the coil, I let it run for 5 to 10 manumits, close off the 2 down line ball valves turn the pump off and let the dairy clean sit in the coils for 10 to 20 manumit to brake up the scale, then run the pump again to back flush again, if its domestic water I reverse the hoses and pump fresh water though to clean out the dairy clean even though it says it is not harmful, after I'm done o close the boiler valves and re-open the down line ball valves I closed before I started, I do this for low flow as well as loss of steady hot water on a boiler like this, a broses water to water exchanger, water to air and so one,, any time I install any appliance or have to cut any pipes another installer put in, I reinstall with unions ( MAKE SURE YOU BUY TOP LINE UNIONS AND VALVES FROM A PLUMBING WHOLSALER, ONES FROM BOXS STORES LIKE THEREE VALVES LEACK LIKE A SIVE IN TIME, PAY THE EXTRA, OR PAY IT AGAIN LATER) to make it easier the next time. I also install cross over line with a ball valve, so I am not shutting the whole building down wile I am working on one appliance, each cross over takes 3 ball valves if your not understanding a cross over, many don't. Note: all MFG recommend you back flush any heat exchanger once a year to keep them working 110% all the time ( as long as you can force a trickle of water or air though the exchanger the dairy clean will rip it out. YOU WILL BE AMAZED AT HOW MUCH HEAT IS LOST WITH JUST A VERY THIN COATING OF DEPOSITS ON THE INSIDE OF A COIL OR PLATE EXCHANNGER, THINK OF YOUR DRIP COFFE MAKERS HOW IT SLOWS DOWN, USE DARIY CLEAN ON IT TOO... good vids man, wish I had the time to video even some of the stuff I do, I just don't have time with all the editing, I done a few, but they mess up my whole 12 hour days
Great diagnosis , saved customer big bucks on replacing coil,How much do those coils cost,just curious
Bernard Sobbe 400 0r so for a coil for that boiler
Nice find Steve great job!!
Harry Dickson i was surpriced to see that flow restricker in there
always good love your work sir.
Oyster & Mill St were coming to raid your home for our street sign !
I think I may have the same issue.
Where are you located Steven?
Hi Steve, I have the same boiler. I sprung a leak on one of the fittings that comes out of the hot side of the tankless coil, and it looks like the nipple broke. Can I take the rest of the nipple out with an extractor and do you recommend using a torch?
I know this is old but Steve uses an internal pipe wrench when extracting broken pipes. Never seen him use a torch to get one out.
Great job Steve
coil had some schmag in it
dklucas1 yes sir
Take the aerators off and let the line(s) flush out,...Right?
What is that heater? You call it a boiler? Is it tank less or what? I have a hot water tank heated by natural gas. I don't have flow restricter.
Domo yes it a oil fired boiler .heats house with copper fin baseboard and it has a tankess coil for domestic hot water .
steven lavimoniere Ah. Ok. I don't see that out here. We have tank less water heaters, but this one is dual purpose. Very few people have the tank less out here. Thank you Steve.
Great video. We have had the same setup for 11 years and the coil still gives hot water.
About how long do they last before replacement is needed?
Andrea Echevarria as tankless get older they will start to lime up in side and preduce less hot water .sometimes adding a shut off to the cold inlet to the tempering valve helps so you can cut back the cold mix to give more coil water to fixures .with out mixing it with cold . after 11 years you might have to make adjustments soon
steven lavimoniere
Thanks Steve.
Good job yes school is always open great show and tell.
So if you get hot water but for only like 20-30 seconds, this could be the problem
twice you helped me out thanks again
Coil can be acid cleaned without removal of coil. Use plumbers to tap in two spigots.
Nice work Steve as usual. Love all your vids. I'm wondering if every tankless unit has a flow restrictor in it...
Michael Padovani no this was a odd.bad design flow control that came in a bag with the boiler . if the guy was smart he would of thrown in out and used a external one
good informative vid. was that like a built in flow control for that model tankless?,, and just cruded up with junk?
nate peerless boilers /flowcontrol it came in a seprate bag to be installed by the installer bad design .they only can through in these peerless boilers for a short time ,first one i have come across ,but i way told about them .when i picked up a replacement coil . that might be the problem from the suppler i was not sure till i pulled it apart to look .
yeah that does seem like a piss poor design part.. anyway, it was damned smart of you to look at that first in your troubleshooting..
thats the difference between experience and wannabes.
good vid,, vids like that teach folks if they want to learn
I change my cartridge in the shower body
When I turn the water back on now I have no hot water pressure.
I guess I will have to attempt this
And I forgot to mention, "Every day is a school day."
Brad1237202 your right every day is a school day
Wow nice find Steve , does she have city or well water ?
justin henning well water .
Amazing , great work Steve
Thanks for the video.
Alex Moisseev thanks for the support
Crome that coppa mamma, wipe that hot solder all over over the pipe, next level lol
Why not just flush the coil?
great repair
Hybrid nj thanks for the comment
thank Steve and baby dog,she is working again!!!!!!mama!
Good job, and good video
nice job. :)
***** something different
steven lavimoniere keep it up. :)
I had the same issue a couple years ago
Kestrel is that you larry?? peerless use to send out that flow control out with some boilers .i have herd i never seen one like this before bad design i would say .if i need a flow control i just use a ball valve set it and take the handle off
Where is co-star Baby the Dog?
those discs we're a poor design steve . the engineer that came up with that idea obviously had no idea how piss poor they would be after a period of time . that's what happens when people who have never worked in the field try to design things that have no practical purpose . not much thought went into that design .
Lloyd .Haight i agree bad design ..
Take strainers off and blast the water.
Truckguy900 Truckguy900 there is no strainers????
On the faucets.
Tankless not thankless