@@vanimaladventures Only issue here is the middle chainring is designed to shift between the other two. You need to replace it with a narrow wide tooth chainring to stop the chain jumping off the bike.
This mod is great for those who don't use all the gearing in their trail bikes. I seldom do. Also great for dropping the FD, cables and shifter. Frees up your internal routing for a dropper post, and keeps things nice and tidy. Thanks great vid as always.
exactly , i live in an urban area . i bought a merida mtb second hand which was dirt cheap and already has a faulty front derraillieur. i mainly use the middle blade up front and 10 gears are plenty for what im using the bike for . easy commutes to work and around town. l live in the netherlands , i tried a dutch bike ( almost everyone around here rides these) , but its not for me . maybe its just my ADHD :). The bike has schwalbe marathon tires on it ( i bought it with these equipped ) , but im putting slicks on it for the summer, and save the current tires for the colder seasons.
Last week, my front derailleur was a bit clogged up from an earlier ride through rather muddy conditions. As a result, shifting to the smallest chainring was impossible - the shifter would get stuck against the mud. Of course I noticed only on the way home when there is this really steep hill (14%....for me that's about the steepest I can go without pushing). Normally I'd do that hill in 1-1 or 1-2. But since I had to stay in the middle chainring, I got up in 2-1 and it worked just fine, even with the chain rattling against the derailleur cage. I rarely use the large chainring either... With a ten-speed cassette, and doing only non-technical riding, a single chain ring in the front should suffice. Maybe I'll try and convert a bit later :)
its like using the middle ring the whole time you dont get any kinda alignment issues. btw if you do this make sure you get a crankset that allows you to remove the entire chainring spider looks 1000x cleaner.
you can get standard 4 bolt chainrings that do the same as XX1 from a few brands now like race face narrow-wide for example. combined with a clutch rear mech upgrade you need no chain guide.
Yeah they are nice and trick looking. Taller teeth than raceface and squarer at tip. I have a 36t chainring paired with a rohloff, so not really needed
@@WhatsMyNameAgain93 it depends on wether or not you want to shift all the time, i prefer 1x11 since i am very bad at cahnging gears upfront so i don't get the advantage from it. I am a bit of a newbie, so tak this with a grain of salt.
I still have a 3x10 with a 26' tyre on my carbon 9.8... 98 model and l love it! And you know why...part replacement are dirt cheap. Keep your centre of gravity as close to the middle as possible...huge cog and dropper seat could offset it and, once in the air remember what pilot say ''the landing is the trickiest par''! Happy ride!
Just an outstanding video! Took my iPad out to the garage with me and went from the stock 3x to Race Face Narrow Wide 1X without breaking a sweat. Rides like a dream. May go with one of the new 11-40T wide range 10spd cassettes to top it off. Thanks!
@@DAGZTERGAMING hope im not too late, you can get a great narrowwide chain ring for 40-60 bucks and then dont use a chain retention device at all. I dont use one even at a downhill park with my 1x11. Raceface is a great quality budget friendly option, wolftooth is worth the extra money if you can afford it.
Got a triple chainset on my All-Mountain bike. It makes a lot of chain chatter on the really rough stuff, and I can't add a chain tensioner due to the three rings! But I love it nonetheless as it gives me 30 potential gears allowing top speeds of ~40mph, incredibly steep hill climbing and everything in between!
Blackspire Monoveloce and Wolftooth I think stand above the rest, but with, Sram, Race Face, Absolute Black, Revolution Components, Northshorebillet in, there is no excuse for not going 1x in the front! And just get a 40t sprocket also and pedal all day long. Awesome bikes the Cannondale Prophets by the way.
Hello, and please excuse my ignorance, I'm new to mountain biking... just betting my first mountain bike last week. Growing up I alway had 10-speed "English Racer" style bikes. I had a 1971 Schwann Continental, a 1972 Raleigh and a 1972 or 73 Sears Free Spirit 10-speed (manufactured by Raleigh that year). All were excellent bikes that that I road for many years and put 10's of thousands of miles on. And all are sill riding today... now own by my mom, brother and my sister. After many years (26) I've decided to get back into biking to get back into shape, and to stay in shape. Rather then getting another 10-speed bike like my pasted bikes, I wanted a mountain bike being that I'm 6'5" and 285 lbs. I bought a Raleigh Tokul 2, which only has one gear ring in the front, compared to the 2 rings I'm used to. At first I was worried that I bought a model that was less capable, noticing that the Raleigh Tokul 1 has the two gear rings in the front with the de-railer. And I was confused over that because the even though the Raleigh Tokul 2 only has the one ring, it's a higher end more expensive bike then the Tokul 1. While out riding, a guy with a Fuji Mountain bike stopped to look at mine and said he was going to convert his bike to just one gear ring. My questions, why would someone only want just one front gear ring... is it for reliability reasons... and also, do you lose speed and/or performance in any way? The guy at the park told me, "you just lose gears you never use anyway" ... but I simple don't know enough about mountain bike at this point to form my own opinion and to know whether or not he was right. I would appreciate you help on this matter, or from anyone else that could answer my question and helping me to understand. Best wishes...
Thank you sir, your reply and help is greatly appreciated. I will take your advice and get to know my bike well before thinking about any changes. Have no need for flat-out speed... just want a pleasurable ride and the gears needed for hills and inclines. Best wishes...
I had 3 ring setup for about 3 years and only once shifted out of the middle ring into the 3rd never the first it saves weight it's easier more reliable less maintenance more room on bars for stuff like dropper posts etc
green apple thank you for your reply. I'm going to ride as is for now, and decide in the Spring if I want to make any charges. My only concern at this point is the slow speed on straight flat riding on paved surfaces (roads & paved bike paths), and on the down hills, I spinning out my petals (?) while at only about 16 MPH. On flat roads, I'm only able to cruise at 12 to 14 MPH. With my old Schinn Continental 10 speed, I was able to cruise at 16 or 18 MPH with minimal effort. Is this a normal for mountain bikes? As for the lack of speed, I'm thinking more of a road/light trail tire? The knobby tires really seem to slow my bike down and give me very little coasting on level ground. Thank you again and I greatly appreciate any help you guys can give me.
There's the magic of the middle ring. The one on which the chain can shift across the entire cassette without any serious problems. Lot of people, me included, use almost exclusively the middle one. I'd really like a 2x10 (30-22 rings) . Don't tell on me, as I've been and kinda still am opposed to 1x, but I might actually convert to 1x sooner or later ;) The conversion to 2x is a bit more complex than I'd like. It either requires some modifications which I'm not perfectly OK with, or new gear that could be more expensive than I'm willing to spend for such an upgrade. An upgrade to 1X is still a bit of a premium, but a conversion is quite simple and not too pricey. Now instead of all the subjective crap you usually get from other users and marketing BS from the brands, here's the reality: It's not about the combinations, it's about the ratios. I have a 29er with 10 speed 11-36T cassete and the chain rings are 40-30-22T. This gives me 30 different combinations. The thing is, it doesn't necessarily give me 30 different ratios. So here's the kicker: there's only 5 ratios which are out of the reach of the 30T ring. In other words, by removing the other two rings, I would only lose 2 of the highest gears and three of the lowest gears. I can do without the high gears, but the lowest ones - well I've gotten into climbs where I used them. I'm going to decide next year what to do. Currently, I'm changing my riding style and habits, so I'll need some more field testing. Try riding just on your middle ring. See if it's too large or too small. Use bike gears calculator for comparisons. Choosing the right ring size is absolutely essential to get a functional 1x. Also, there's a few thing to bare in mind. For instance, on a 3x setup, the middle ring isn't perfectly centred. So if you want to convert to 1x, you need to offset the ring by a few mm towards the low rear gears (the larger ones). Some of the aftermarket rings intended for conversion are offset on their own. Branded stuff usually requires you to use spacers.
I have a 2020 hopper expert 1x & i have ordered a 11-36t sram cassette like you have in this video. Only difference is i have a 30t chain ring. So excited to see how it feels.
Depends on your riding. This set up suits me, I take the climbs steady, hammer the downhills and hit as many jumps and tech sections as I can. If It's just a bit of added confidence not having to worry about losing the chain. Sure it wears the chain a bit quicker but chains are cheap and I have all the gear range I need for mountainbiking. YMMV.
a single chainring makes sense as long as your a strong cyclist (and you will be soon enough without granny gears lol). no need for front mech complexity and another mud trap. i fitted a cheapy 44 tooth mighty crankset on my old marin. bikes now simpler, a bit lighter and much easier to clean.
+Dan Henderson I agree I use a 30 tooth chain ring with a 36/11 cassette and this does for most long hard climbs. and plenty of speed on the downhill parts as momentum and gravity does most of the work for you.
Luke Kelly Using a molybdenum disulphide grease or any lithium soap based grease (the green stuff for example that comes with shimano parts) would be my recommendation. Have a great day :)
If you wanna go single in front you could use a bmx crank with a narrow racing chainring, i ride a KHE Erlkönig crank with titanium axle on my fully. These are easier to install (no clamping bolts) and are nearly indestructable..
To thus who wonder what the pros are 1 the weight loss Sure you wont notice it But for thus who run 3by 10 Youd get that on long distances 2 simplisity You dont have to worry about shifting for the best front gear And that sound on rough climbing Your front (or rear gor thus who live in the uk) break is always ready to break
I've thought about it on my CC but I like my granny gear for those technical slow climbs when my legs are toast and I like my big ring for cranking out on a gravel/two track - I do have a double on my trail bike but same there - nice to have options.
Thanks for the video. It is pretty clear and helpful. One thing you don't address is why this is necessary? What is the advantage of giving up one or two chainrings up front?
@@carbonoxx The only con I can think of is losing some gears but some added pros is less weight, less parts to break, less parts to maintain and simple easy shifting.
Use a narrow wide chainring and no chain guide required even if you are not using a clutch rear mech as I'm running just now and hardly ever drop a chain.
Great vid. I run a 1x11 but want to convert my sons 24" 3x7 to a 1x 10. Only trouble is it looks like I need to spend the same amount on tools as components 😦
***** I recently converted my AM steed to a raceface narrow/wide that I'm running without a guide. It was cheaper than replacing my chainring set, and I haven't been able to drop the chain yet (not due to lack of effort). 'But Dylan, that's just anecdotal evidence,' you might say, at which point I would commend your knowledge of logical fallacies and direct you to the numerous reviews (PB, NSMB, BikeRadar, Jenson, mtbr forums, youtube, etc.) that say the same.
@@wj-mtb4031 Depends on the chainring. A chain guide can help in terms of the chain falling off and most of all you can make it by yourself so no need for expensive bike shop parts.
36 as the low gear cassette in the back? And still get up the hills OK? Sorry, not here in the Pacific NW. I need at least a 42. That means that XT derailleur needs an extender link or the bike needs a new/different derailleur that can accommodate the wider range cassette (with shifters to match).
this video is actually on how to covert your already 2 x 10 to a 1 x 10. i thought it was going to show you how to change the rear from a 7/8 to a 10 speed. So TL:DR: Remove smallest chainring. Done!
Sorry for the noob question: couldn't he have used one of the three existing gears (I suppose the biggest one) instead of replacing the gear altogether?
I sure don´t use my full gear spectrum, but no way I´m gonna do this mess. It must be pretty fucked up to face a drastic slope and or terrain change. You obviously need to prethink a lot more all of your move with these system, and I guess it stresses the chain a lot more. Very well explained though !
wrong. You (or at least many people) have to think a lot less about "which gear do I ride right now" and so on. You simply ride. Through any terrain. If you can´t make it you keep on practicing and get stronger. I know people riding all kind of terrain with a single speed MTB. Ok, that might be a little rough, but losing the front chainrings is not a big thing.
Your videos are great, thanks. I am converting my 29er to a 27.5 plus and hope you can give me advice on taking it down from a triple to a single 10. It's an older Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er. I have Shimano FC-M36108 crankset with 22/32/42 chainrings. Rear cassette is an 8spd 11-32. I'm not a hardcore rider, just have fun on the bike. Can you suggest what size/part nbr chain ring up front and what cassette/part nbr at the back? Do I really require a chain keeper device? Cheers!
@@Nick-um1pi well I'm sorry but you can't complain if you don't have it. Chances are if his bike was made more recently it doesn't have a front derailleur that is bottom bracket mounted anyway.
Thank you for sharing your experience with public. It has been very helpful. I have a question to ask outside this video, if you do not mind. The gear of my bicycle, Giant brand, slips whenever I want to accelerate or go up a hill. What can be the cause? Thank you
It may be that your chain rings are worn, your chain itself is worn, or the derralieur/s may need adjustment. If your bike is a full suspension, you may have 'Chain Stretch' so replacing the chain may give you the best chances.
The rear or the front? If it happens whenever you start pedaling hard, it's either a worn chain, cassette, or both. If you have a new chain on a broken-in (as in not worn out yet but definitely used) cassette, it's normal for the chain to slip occasionally for about 100km before it stretches a bit. Best to bring the bike into a shop. They'll change the chain a determine whether new cassette is necessary. Also ask them about a chain stretch measuring tool. The basic ones are really cheap, six bucks or less. It'll let you know when it's time to replace your chain before you start damaging the rear cassette.
Nice and clear video but this is for a modern mountain bike, I'm wonderin' if you have a video of how to do this with an old one that has a square taper crank. Or maybe there's a way to change a square taper crank to a hollowtech crank so that it's easier to upgrade?
To be honest, you probably don't need the chain guide as long as you have a narrow wide chainring (every other tooth is narrow and the rest are wide) and a clutch mech like the shimano Zee stuff. My cousin has been running this setup for about eight months and hasn't had an issue yet. So you could skip the bottom bracket section and just do the rest.
HI,i carried out this out word for word and on my bike stand or my turbo trainer everything was perfect the only difference was that I used a raceface narrow wide 32t chainring to stop dropping the chain.Now for the but, when I got out on the road my gears jumped and skipped all over the place,when I got home I put it back on the stand to make some adjustments but the gears went up and down perfectly with no adjustment.WTF have I done wrong,Does anybody know?
+gazzakh 47 Did you replace the chain with a new one? If you did you change the cassette as well as this will cause the chain to jump.When I change a chain,cassette or chain rings I change the whole lot as a worn chain on new rings do not work very well.I also shortened my chain by a couple of extra links.Hope this will help if not visit a reliable local bike shop for help.
Hi Richard thanks for the reply.Yes I replaced the chain with a 10 speed chain and the cassette had to be changed as I changing from an 18 speed 3x6 gearing.Perhaps you're right and it's just a bit slack I'll give it a go and see what happens.Thanks Gary.
A late 4 year follow up. But for sure you should adjust and index the rear derailleur after doing this conversion. Also for anyone playing along at home, maybe add or remove a spacer.
Well, the chain guide looks pretty ugly. Use the front derailleur as a adjustable guide. You may need a longer screw to get the cage in position. I'm using the chain ring mounted to the right (outside) to get a better chain offset. You have to mount the c-ring reversed to fit the positioning drill. A 9-speed chain ring, as it has slight thicker teeth, may result in less chain drop off (quite fine on my bike, so i ride without guide). When using a 32 teeth cain ring don't get out of mind that you will look like the Roadrunner (38 teeth with 11-32 casette at 26" rims + 2,35" tires is my setup).
Nice vid. I've just gone from 2 x 10 to 1 x10 with a shimano zee crankset and a sunline chain guide. Just need to figure out how many links to remove from the chain now ;-)
Why not keep the outer ring and use it instead of installing a newer one ?? To my case I have a two chainring bike but I only use the outer one, is it mandatory to replace it with a new ring instead of keeping only the outer one and get rid of all the cables, derailleur and the handlebar shifter?
did you flim this video in heaven?
+arsenalbloke
With the uggliest bike ever.
But a good manual!
Heaven looks quite shitty
+Pepe where's the mtb trails
arsenalbloke 😀😀😀😀😀
arsenalbloke lol, sounds like the old mythological movies when the gods were talking lol
I see that your workshop is in the matrix.
"We need bikes... Lots of bikes."
Haha so good
@@Jamarkus_Delvonte 8 هذا
This is where neo shows him the bike mechanic skills
Lol
This guy is so positive I love it 😂
This dude seems super thrilled to be making this video.
i just took my pedals off, took the big and small ring off and put it back together with the middle cog left on and thats it lol didnt cost me a penny
if youre serious id love to know what frame or bike bc i might just do this on my immaculate trek single track
@@vanimaladventures Only issue here is the middle chainring is designed to shift between the other two. You need to replace it with a narrow wide tooth chainring to stop the chain jumping off the bike.
"you need only basic tools" and then he uses something like this(1:05)
Sebi _ Palgino basic bb tool, I’ve got one!
Well no fuck he needed to remove that so...
That's a basic bike tool.
Expand a needle nose plier in the grove and turn. Will do the same exact thing without special tool
This mod is great for those who don't use all the gearing in their trail bikes. I seldom do. Also great for dropping the FD, cables and shifter. Frees up your internal routing for a dropper post, and keeps things nice and tidy. Thanks great vid as always.
Seem like the terrain a person would be riding that would fit the 80mm Headshok travel, a dropper post wouldn't really be needed.
exactly , i live in an urban area . i bought a merida mtb second hand which was dirt cheap and already has a faulty front derraillieur. i mainly use the middle blade up front and 10 gears are plenty for what im using the bike for . easy commutes to work and around town.
l live in the netherlands , i tried a dutch bike ( almost everyone around here rides these) , but its not for me . maybe its just my ADHD :).
The bike has schwalbe marathon tires on it ( i bought it with these equipped ) , but im putting slicks on it for the summer, and save the current tires for the colder seasons.
It's not just to save weight. It clears up space on the bars, allows you to get a proper chain guide on and there's just less to go wrong.
Last week, my front derailleur was a bit clogged up from an earlier ride through rather muddy conditions. As a result, shifting to the smallest chainring was impossible - the shifter would get stuck against the mud. Of course I noticed only on the way home when there is this really steep hill (14%....for me that's about the steepest I can go without pushing). Normally I'd do that hill in 1-1 or 1-2. But since I had to stay in the middle chainring, I got up in 2-1 and it worked just fine, even with the chain rattling against the derailleur cage. I rarely use the large chainring either...
With a ten-speed cassette, and doing only non-technical riding, a single chain ring in the front should suffice. Maybe I'll try and convert a bit later :)
Maybie if you cleaned out some of the mud then it would shift to the lowest ring.
its like using the middle ring the whole time you dont get any kinda alignment issues. btw if you do this make sure you get a crankset that allows you to remove the entire chainring spider looks 1000x cleaner.
I do this to all my bikes. simplifys things.
you can get standard 4 bolt chainrings that do the same as XX1 from a few brands now like race face narrow-wide for example. combined with a clutch rear mech upgrade you need no chain guide.
Yeah they are nice and trick looking. Taller teeth than raceface and squarer at tip. I have a 36t chainring paired with a rohloff, so not really needed
you wouldn't need that chain guide if you used a narrow wide chain ring
2X10 works SO good. Got really low gears,and high gears,with out needing a 11X50 cassette to try to make shift.
I'm looking to change from the 3x8 that came with my bike, would you say 2x10 is better than a 1x? Also what did you need to buy and replace 😁🤙
@@WhatsMyNameAgain93 it depends on wether or not you want to shift all the time, i prefer 1x11 since i am very bad at cahnging gears upfront so i don't get the advantage from it. I am a bit of a newbie, so tak this with a grain of salt.
I still have a 3x10 with a 26' tyre on my carbon 9.8... 98 model and l love it! And you know why...part replacement are dirt cheap. Keep your centre of gravity as close to the middle as possible...huge cog and dropper seat could offset it and, once in the air remember what pilot say ''the landing is the trickiest par''! Happy ride!
i used to work at a bike shop for yrs, its a good way to learn yourself, the hardest thing is lacing a wheel, or taking a road shifter apart.
This the guide I've been looking for. Thank goodness!
Just an outstanding video! Took my iPad out to the garage with me and went from the stock 3x to Race Face Narrow Wide 1X without breaking a sweat. Rides like a dream. May go with one of the new 11-40T wide range 10spd cassettes to top it off. Thanks!
Great vid. Followed it and I'm now 1x10. Thanks!!
M Nicholas Glassett how much was your chainring
@@DAGZTERGAMING hope im not too late, you can get a great narrowwide chain ring for 40-60 bucks and then dont use a chain retention device at all. I dont use one even at a downhill park with my 1x11. Raceface is a great quality budget friendly option, wolftooth is worth the extra money if you can afford it.
Jacob Fromerth I ended up buying one for £12 and it’s perfect
@@DAGZTERGAMING sweet! What kind did you get and what kind of riding do you use it for?
Jacob Fromerth I ride trails and dirt jumps
What’s the cost of this at a bike shop❓
$100 min. It takes a shop 1-2 hrs
Got a triple chainset on my All-Mountain bike. It makes a lot of chain chatter on the really rough stuff, and I can't add a chain tensioner due to the three rings! But I love it nonetheless as it gives me 30 potential gears allowing top speeds of ~40mph, incredibly steep hill climbing and everything in between!
Blackspire Monoveloce and Wolftooth I think stand above the rest, but with, Sram, Race Face, Absolute Black, Revolution Components, Northshorebillet in, there is no excuse for not going 1x in the front!
And just get a 40t sprocket also and pedal all day long.
Awesome bikes the Cannondale Prophets by the way.
Did you turn your SLX brakes into SEX brakes? Haha did I see that right?
Haha I had to go back and check, he definitely did lol
10:06 well spotted
Lmao "sex brakes"
Hello, and please excuse my ignorance, I'm new to mountain biking... just betting my first mountain bike last week. Growing up I alway had 10-speed "English Racer" style bikes. I had a 1971 Schwann Continental, a 1972 Raleigh and a 1972 or 73 Sears Free Spirit 10-speed (manufactured by Raleigh that year). All were excellent bikes that that I road for many years and put 10's of thousands of miles on. And all are sill riding today... now own by my mom, brother and my sister. After many years (26) I've decided to get back into biking to get back into shape, and to stay in shape. Rather then getting another 10-speed bike like my pasted bikes, I wanted a mountain bike being that I'm 6'5" and 285 lbs. I bought a Raleigh Tokul 2, which only has one gear ring in the front, compared to the 2 rings I'm used to. At first I was worried that I bought a model that was less capable, noticing that the Raleigh Tokul 1 has the two gear rings in the front with the de-railer. And I was confused over that because the even though the Raleigh Tokul 2 only has the one ring, it's a higher end more expensive bike then the Tokul 1. While out riding, a guy with a Fuji Mountain bike stopped to look at mine and said he was going to convert his bike to just one gear ring. My questions, why would someone only want just one front gear ring... is it for reliability reasons... and also, do you lose speed and/or performance in any way? The guy at the park told me, "you just lose gears you never use anyway" ... but I simple don't know enough about mountain bike at this point to form my own opinion and to know whether or not he was right. I would appreciate you help on this matter, or from anyone else that could answer my question and helping me to understand. Best wishes...
Thank you sir, your reply and help is greatly appreciated. I will take your advice and get to know my bike well before thinking about any changes. Have no need for flat-out speed... just want a pleasurable ride and the gears needed for hills and inclines. Best wishes...
I had 3 ring setup for about 3 years and only once shifted out of the middle ring into the 3rd never the first it saves weight it's easier more reliable less maintenance more room on bars for stuff like dropper posts etc
green apple thank you for your reply. I'm going to ride as is for now, and decide in the Spring if I want to make any charges.
My only concern at this point is the slow speed on straight flat riding on paved surfaces (roads & paved bike paths), and on the down hills, I spinning out my petals (?) while at only about 16 MPH. On flat roads, I'm only able to cruise at 12 to 14 MPH. With my old Schinn Continental 10 speed, I was able to cruise at 16 or 18 MPH with minimal effort. Is this a normal for mountain bikes?
As for the lack of speed, I'm thinking more of a road/light trail tire? The knobby tires really seem to slow my bike down and give me very little coasting on level ground.
Thank you again and I greatly appreciate any help you guys can give me.
There's the magic of the middle ring. The one on which the chain can shift across the entire cassette without any serious problems. Lot of people, me included, use almost exclusively the middle one. I'd really like a 2x10 (30-22 rings) . Don't tell on me, as I've been and kinda still am opposed to 1x, but I might actually convert to 1x sooner or later ;) The conversion to 2x is a bit more complex than I'd like. It either requires some modifications which I'm not perfectly OK with, or new gear that could be more expensive than I'm willing to spend for such an upgrade. An upgrade to 1X is still a bit of a premium, but a conversion is quite simple and not too pricey.
Now instead of all the subjective crap you usually get from other users and marketing BS from the brands, here's the reality: It's not about the combinations, it's about the ratios.
I have a 29er with 10 speed 11-36T cassete and the chain rings are 40-30-22T. This gives me 30 different combinations. The thing is, it doesn't necessarily give me 30 different ratios. So here's the kicker: there's only 5 ratios which are out of the reach of the 30T ring. In other words, by removing the other two rings, I would only lose 2 of the highest gears and three of the lowest gears. I can do without the high gears, but the lowest ones - well I've gotten into climbs where I used them. I'm going to decide next year what to do. Currently, I'm changing my riding style and habits, so I'll need some more field testing.
Try riding just on your middle ring. See if it's too large or too small. Use bike gears calculator for comparisons. Choosing the right ring size is absolutely essential to get a functional 1x.
Also, there's a few thing to bare in mind. For instance, on a 3x setup, the middle ring isn't perfectly centred. So if you want to convert to 1x, you need to offset the ring by a few mm towards the low rear gears (the larger ones). Some of the aftermarket rings intended for conversion are offset on their own. Branded stuff usually requires you to use spacers.
I have a 2020 hopper expert 1x & i have ordered a 11-36t sram cassette like you have in this video. Only difference is i have a 30t chain ring. So excited to see how it feels.
Depends on your riding. This set up suits me, I take the climbs steady, hammer the downhills and hit as many jumps and tech sections as I can. If It's just a bit of added confidence not having to worry about losing the chain. Sure it wears the chain a bit quicker but chains are cheap and I have all the gear range I need for mountainbiking. YMMV.
a single chainring makes sense as long as your a strong cyclist (and you will be soon enough without granny gears lol). no need for front mech complexity and another mud trap. i fitted a cheapy 44 tooth mighty crankset on my old marin. bikes now simpler, a bit lighter and much easier to clean.
You can be a weakling cyclist and run a 26,28 tooth direct mount chainring.
+Dan Henderson I agree I use a 30 tooth chain ring with a 36/11 cassette and this does for most long hard climbs. and plenty of speed on the downhill parts as momentum and gravity does most of the work for you.
OUCH! Please do NOT use copper based anti seize when dealing with aluminum. It eats up the aluminum electrochemically. Research it.
Luke Kelly
Using a molybdenum disulphide grease or any lithium soap based grease (the green stuff for example that comes with shimano parts) would be my recommendation.
Have a great day :)
Luke Kelly You are very welcome! :D
+Max Lindner Those two types of grease will be ok for anything?
RustyR Yeah, pretty much good for everything...
+Max Lindner except forks and shocks...they don't recommend lithium based greases on those.
At 11:50 the subtitles translate what ever you said to, "China phone call." lol.
Skip 1x10 altogether. Plenty of options now in 1x11. You will appreciate the closer ratios and range.
If you wanna go single in front you could use a bmx crank with a narrow racing chainring, i ride a KHE Erlkönig crank with titanium axle on my fully.
These are easier to install (no clamping bolts) and are nearly indestructable..
Again great way to show how things are properly and well done! Excellent and very good advice given! Big THANK to you Al! Great job!
To thus who wonder what the pros are
1 the weight loss
Sure you wont notice it
But for thus who run 3by 10
Youd get that on long distances
2 simplisity
You dont have to worry about shifting for the best front gear
And that sound on rough climbing
Your front (or rear gor thus who live in the uk) break is always ready to break
I've thought about it on my CC but I like my granny gear for those technical slow climbs when my legs are toast and I like my big ring for cranking out on a gravel/two track - I do have a double on my trail bike but same there - nice to have options.
Thanks for the video. It is pretty clear and helpful. One thing you don't address is why this is necessary? What is the advantage of giving up one or two chainrings up front?
The chain won't fall of when goign over rough terrain
@@Yaromir_Music and the cons?
@@carbonoxx
The only con I can think of is losing some gears but some added pros is less weight, less parts to break, less parts to maintain and simple easy shifting.
Absolutely awesome tutorial!
can you make video on HOW TO CONVERT MY BIKE INTO A UNICYCLE?
Use a narrow wide chainring and no chain guide required even if you are not using a clutch rear mech as I'm running just now and hardly ever drop a chain.
Great vid. I run a 1x11 but want to convert my sons 24" 3x7 to a 1x 10. Only trouble is it looks like I need to spend the same amount on tools as components 😦
Why not use a wide/narrow ring like Wolf tooth and ditch the guide???
good point, maybe because they're $$$ and you can still lose your chain
***** I recently converted my AM steed to a raceface narrow/wide that I'm running without a guide. It was cheaper than replacing my chainring set, and I haven't been able to drop the chain yet (not due to lack of effort). 'But Dylan, that's just anecdotal evidence,' you might say, at which point I would commend your knowledge of logical fallacies and direct you to the numerous reviews (PB, NSMB, BikeRadar, Jenson, mtbr forums, youtube, etc.) that say the same.
Dylan Long sounds like I need to take a second look at a narrow / wide set up! What brand did you go with?
*****
Wolf is the brand.
***** I'm running a Raceface narrow/wide chainring
“You don’t need any special tools.
Step two, use this special tool.”
do you really need a chain guide? just wondering
Nope, just run a narrow wide ring. Done.
it can be done as long as the rear hub is 8/9/10 cogs compatible. then upgrade your chain, shifter and rear derailleur 10 speed.
I need to do this with my 2013 Kona Blast, my backup winter bike.
This video is in desperate need of background noise reduction in Audacity or something...
Excellent video. Well demonstrated.
Orrrrr just remove the front derailleur and shifter and manually place the chain on whatever chainring you want. Set and forget
Your chain will fall off
@@wj-mtb4031 Depends on the chainring. A chain guide can help in terms of the chain falling off and most of all you can make it by yourself so no need for expensive bike shop parts.
Brilliant tuition as ever, thanks for your videos 👍
36 as the low gear cassette in the back? And still get up the hills OK? Sorry, not here in the Pacific NW. I need at least a 42. That means that XT derailleur needs an extender link or the bike needs a new/different derailleur that can accommodate the wider range cassette (with shifters to match).
Wish my shop was that clean...
this video is actually on how to covert your already 2 x 10 to a 1 x 10. i thought it was going to show you how to change the rear from a 7/8 to a 10 speed.
So TL:DR: Remove smallest chainring. Done!
Well it's not hard to remove a derailleur and cassette and chain and replace them...
Thank you for another awesome how-to video!
think i might do this!
Very clear concise Great stuff
It's that easy? Wowser said Towser.I dig it.
Sorry for the noob question: couldn't he have used one of the three existing gears (I suppose the biggest one) instead of replacing the gear altogether?
Back when 10 speed was the latest thing
No, I sure as sh!t don't. No front derailleur is the future. Taro and Honzo are ill. Nice work, Kona!
What if i just leave the middle chainring there?
In the shop they told me I can't do this due to the length of the bottom bracket. Is an octalink 113mm
One by probably good for climbing Hills and going down Hills but not long distance Road riding or gravel biking
Shimano says newer break chain on link pin. Always pick up another pin and replace it with new link pin.
+skvedo Not a problem if you're shortening the chain as you're removing the entire link, anyway.
You know its a damn shimano BB when it takes a few tries to get the BB tool on the cup to loosen it hahaha
Save more weight, get rid of the chain device as a narrow wide ring and clutch mech will be more than enough to stop it jumping off
Is there any alignment problem? I mean, how is it possible for the chain to remain straight at all the gears?
Can you tell me which replacement parts you use ?? Interesting video !
Very informative! Thank you!
"And now just tap the axle out" he destroys the thing
It's 12-14Nm for crank bolts
40Nm for bb
I sure don´t use my full gear spectrum, but no way I´m gonna do this mess. It must be pretty fucked up to face a drastic slope and or terrain change. You obviously need to prethink a lot more all of your move with these system, and I guess it stresses the chain a lot more. Very well explained though !
wrong. You (or at least many people) have to think a lot less about "which gear do I ride right now" and so on. You simply ride. Through any terrain.
If you can´t make it you keep on practicing and get stronger.
I know people riding all kind of terrain with a single speed MTB.
Ok, that might be a little rough, but losing the front chainrings is not a big thing.
Your videos are great, thanks.
I am converting my 29er to a 27.5 plus and hope you can give me advice on taking it down from a triple to a single 10.
It's an older Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er.
I have Shimano FC-M36108 crankset with 22/32/42 chainrings.
Rear cassette is an 8spd 11-32.
I'm not a hardcore rider, just have fun on the bike. Can you suggest what size/part nbr chain ring up front and what cassette/part nbr at the back?
Do I really require a chain keeper device?
Cheers!
If you put that kind of chain guide on it, just leave the front mech in place.
Thanks very much for posting this.
Well explained and demonstrated.
Did you know that copper anti seize is not a lubricant and is abrasive ? It should only be used on parts that don't move like bolt threads.
Would be good to see you go over chainline in this video, can you share any advice on how to set up a good chainline?
can i chose one of the old chainrings instead of buying a new one?
Best to get a narrow wide ring but the retention combined with a clutch mech is so good you can save some cash by not bothering with the chain device
thanks that really helps
i thought upgrade should have been easier. now i see i find it hard just to change a few things on this new bikes.
4 allen bolts for a pedal.
You don't use copper anti seize on any moving parts as its abrasive, nor do you use it on aluminium parts.
Cannondale Prophet
Ricardo Nunes poi
could you do another video like this with a hardtail? thanks
It’s the same regardless lmao
Basic tools... first tool, random ass tool. 😂
Well, when you need to remove that you need to remove that. Not much you can do idiot
@@bananasstuff3344 no need to be rude. He was just saying how it's an obscure tool even if you might need to use it
@@Nick-um1pi well I'm sorry but you can't complain if you don't have it. Chances are if his bike was made more recently it doesn't have a front derailleur that is bottom bracket mounted anyway.
@@bananasstuff3344 not denying any of that just saying no reason to be angry
Not a random tool, many people serious about mountain biking (or biking in general) have a bottom bracket wrench
excellent video but questions regarding the chain does not suffer more wear and torsion to make working much more than a three-course or two dishes?
Thank you for sharing your experience with public. It has been very helpful. I have a question to ask outside this video, if you do not mind.
The gear of my bicycle, Giant brand, slips whenever I want to accelerate or go up a hill. What can be the cause? Thank you
It may be that your chain rings are worn, your chain itself is worn, or the derralieur/s may need adjustment. If your bike is a full suspension, you may have 'Chain Stretch' so replacing the chain may give you the best chances.
Thank you Travis
The rear or the front? If it happens whenever you start pedaling hard, it's either a worn chain, cassette, or both. If you have a new chain on a broken-in (as in not worn out yet but definitely used) cassette, it's normal for the chain to slip occasionally for about 100km before it stretches a bit.
Best to bring the bike into a shop. They'll change the chain a determine whether new cassette is necessary. Also ask them about a chain stretch measuring tool. The basic ones are really cheap, six bucks or less. It'll let you know when it's time to replace your chain before you start damaging the rear cassette.
@ CanlHasThis Name,
Thank you so much for taking time and explaining to me the possible cause of the problem and the way to fix it.I am obliged.
I want to do 2x speed instead of 1x how do I do ?
Nice and clear video but this is for a modern mountain bike, I'm wonderin' if you have a video of how to do this with an old one that has a square taper crank. Or maybe there's a way to change a square taper crank to a hollowtech crank so that it's easier to upgrade?
To be honest, you probably don't need the chain guide as long as you have a narrow wide chainring (every other tooth is narrow and the rest are wide) and a clutch mech like the shimano Zee stuff. My cousin has been running this setup for about eight months and hasn't had an issue yet. So you could skip the bottom bracket section and just do the rest.
Oh I believe that you can fit external bb to a square taper type frame but you're talking big bucks then.
Awesome video, super informative! But more importantly, where can I get my hands on that kickass shirt?
HI,i carried out this out word for word and on my bike stand or my turbo trainer everything was perfect the only difference was that I used a raceface narrow wide 32t chainring to stop dropping the chain.Now for the but, when I got out on the road my gears jumped and skipped all over the place,when I got home I put it back on the stand to make some adjustments but the gears went up and down perfectly with no adjustment.WTF have I done wrong,Does anybody know?
+gazzakh 47 Did you replace the chain with a new one? If you did you change the cassette as well as this will cause the chain to jump.When I change a chain,cassette or chain rings I change the whole lot as a worn chain on new rings do not work very well.I also shortened my chain by a couple of extra links.Hope this will help if not visit a reliable local bike shop for help.
Hi Richard thanks for the reply.Yes I replaced the chain with a 10 speed chain and the cassette had to be changed as I changing from an 18 speed 3x6 gearing.Perhaps you're right and it's just a bit slack I'll give it a go and see what happens.Thanks Gary.
A late 4 year follow up. But for sure you should adjust and index the rear derailleur after doing this conversion. Also for anyone playing along at home, maybe add or remove a spacer.
I would have taken off the chain first....
His much does it cost for a decent one in Canadian dollars or usa dollors
Well, the chain guide looks pretty ugly. Use the front derailleur as a adjustable guide. You may need a longer screw to get the cage in position. I'm using the chain ring mounted to the right (outside) to get a better chain offset. You have to mount the c-ring reversed to fit the positioning drill. A 9-speed chain ring, as it has slight thicker teeth, may result in less chain drop off (quite fine on my bike, so i ride without guide). When using a 32 teeth cain ring don't get out of mind that you will look like the Roadrunner (38 teeth with 11-32 casette at 26" rims + 2,35" tires is my setup).
I believe Cross Country bikes should have 3x10.Enduro Bikes should have 2x10 and Downhill bikes 1x10 or 2x10
Cee Neiton The industry changes all the time. 1x11 is now the high end standard for enduro/AM and even a lot of XC now.
Cee Neiton try a 1x11 and you will never go back to a 3x
Fantastic video thanks for sharing
sem chance!
a bike não sobe e não corre falta marchas nas duas formas "só estética mesmo"
Man:you need to tap the axle
(slams the axle....)
Nice vid. I've just gone from 2 x 10 to 1 x10 with a shimano zee crankset and a sunline chain guide. Just need to figure out how many links to remove from the chain now ;-)
Thank very much...
wow! what a great instructional video! thank you very much! :-)
Why not keep the outer ring and use it instead of installing a newer one ?? To my case I have a two chainring bike but I only use the outer one, is it mandatory to replace it with a new ring instead of keeping only the outer one and get rid of all the cables, derailleur and the handlebar shifter?
No mate but your chain will shift off with any lateral force so he installed one that has special teeth to retain the chain
Do you do anything at all to your audio or are you just using the audio straight out of the camera?
Very well done, cheers