@@janetsers4895 i did that on my 75 ford if you use the transfer case as a front derailer it helps on the clutch smoke and you can breath just realy hard not breaking drive shfts go with 2nd 4th worked ok on road but it sucked trying to get there have fun with that
I'm glad I kept my 3X10 mountain bike. It's super versatile, going up 20% hills on the trails or road touring with large gears and being able to keep close to my best candace. The chain also lasts very long with little crossover. Also, the front gears need little maintenance since for every 20 times I change the back gears, I only change the front once. Sometimes the original ideas are the best. Like my rear rack, with the arrival of bikepacking I never took the rear rack off, it is useful for large or small panniers, a backpack, drybag or just a wind breaker, so useful.
I ride a bike with a 3x8 transmission and I would not change that at all. It has all the range that I need in speed. With the missing larger chainring, you are missing the benefits of the higher speed and you would need at least 11t or 12t on the cassette to achieve the high speeds on the road. On higher ascent grade hills, the granny gear on the crankset would be a great asset so the legs won’t get tired and for slippery dirt terrain, you have more traction control. My next bike if I decided to, it would have multiple chainrings in the front. To have a 1x11 or a 1x12, the chain needs to strain itself by angling it in order to get the biggest gear on the cassette. I would go for a 3x9 or a 3x10 for an upgrade. Peace!
You're absolutely right if you want or need to do everything with one bike. That's why I refrained from changing my travel bike from 3x8 with 50-36-26 chainrings to a 11 gear Aldine. The total transmission range is way too low to be fast on the pavement AND being able to climb with added baggage. And that's also what I don't about modern MTBs with 1x12 or such, but only a 32T chainring in the front: climbing is not an issue with 11-50 casettes, but don't those people ever want to drive fast?!
Thanks! You helped me decide not to bother doing this, as I ride my 3 by on the centre ring only and it has integrated brake/shifter levers. Add to that, it's an early 90's Gary Fisher and I like how it's almost original.
You should consider starting an online store, stocking parts that you present and have tested. I, for one, would buy the 5 bolts, 130 BCD chainring, you are using in this video.
I actually just kind of do that exact thing but through affiliate links instead. If something is purchased on Amazon through my links, I profit from it! And that way, I don't have to stock anything!
You can ride clutch on 9 speed or lower. Tge only need is a converter. Buy one or print one. I ride clutch (rd-m6000) on 3x8 speed and next time on 3x9
Living in flat Forida, as I do, I really don't need the complications in maintenance of my 21 speed MTB. I removed the derailers. I converted the rear deraller to a chain tensioner by removed the spring that displaces the chain laterally. I saw that on another utube clip. While at work, I also replaced the flat handlebar with an elevated stem and a swallow handlebar. Now I can ride my MTB like a Dutch gentleman in Amsterdam, upright and comfortably. The spring seat I bought for less than $20. adds a rear suspension to the front suspension that came with the MTB. Why did I buy a 21 speed MTB in the first place? Because they are much less expensive than other bikes - which I think are terribly overprices by comparison. My MTB cost me less than $100, new, in a box months ago. Now, it costs about $50. more. The MTB has a front suspension and aluminum alloy in the frame. The cruisers, etc., in the bike shops start at $400, are all steel, no suspension at all and single speed!
Recently bought a Rocky Mountain Soul 27.5 that was used by a bike mech friend of mine. It has a 11-40t Cassette and 1x 9 30t speed in the front. No front mech, no guide. And haven't dropped the chain once in Shorthill Provincial Park. Rear Mech is Acera M3000 Shadow. So your point on 1x is correct.
I bought a One Up components oval chain ring for my entry level Norco XC bike. It was 2x9 before, the oval chain ring had been great. Will be pairing it with a Box components prime 9 system
You can usualy use a 10 speed derailuer on a 9 speed caset and you can drill out the rivits if you have a stamped crankset if you have an integrated shifter you can just buy a cheap brake leaver.
10:54 Yeah for road and gravel bikes maybe, not MTB's. I put a standard CS-M8000 XT 11 speed cassette on my Hope Sport just fine and that hub was made over twenty years ago. When a manufacturer say something like "11 speed compatible" rather than being helpful and reassuring it's usually a way of misleading you into assuming that your old stuff is obsolete.
1x 10sp on my XC bike, 32t Hope oval chainring, XT derailleur with clutch that I NEVER switch on. No dropped chains, the Hope ring is that good. Where I live we regularly ride 350m hills at over 20% incline, so 32t is a must. Road bike still 2x10sp.
If you have an 8 speed cassette and a crankset with a 110 BCD you can use a rennen Design Group Pro BMX chainring. The 8-speed chain fits single speed chain rings nice and snug. Really any single speed chainring with large teeth will work.
I know this is older, but still being asked about all-over the place... I'm converting to a 1x simple because the front chainring/derailleur doesn't seem to play nice no matter how it's adjusted, without warning or reason it comes off the front, always the front, and I primarily use 1 chainring anyways. I've been collecting parts so I can do this all at once and shouldn't need to go buy parts. But know the truth about a 1x setup, it WILL cost $$$... Unless you totally ghetto the setup somehow, and at that point you may not even have the benefits of a 1x, it will cost $$$. Not changing the rear cassette will just rob you of gear selection and make a 1x suck for you. My suggestion is a simple one... Ride someones elses bike (more than around the lot) that has a 1x setup, You'll know if it's a GOOD setup for you. I was lucky and was able to rent a similar bike to mine for a day that was a 1x11 setup, and for my local trails, it worked... But I can see how it may not be ideal with other types of trails. Let's face it - the reason your bike came with a 2x or 3x setup from the factory, was it sounds better to say "21 speed" or "27 speed" than it does to say "11 speed"... that's it, it's marketing hype and availability cheap parts more than the fact that you have some duplicates anyways. This year saying "1x" is the new catchphrase of the day, and next year it will be "pinion gear" or "CVT gearing" or something else they come up with. What works is what works for you and how you ride, not just because it's the new catchphrase of the day.
@@torrolindsey3459 all I know for sure is that I had so many issues with the front derailleur that "went away" with the 1X system. I have a very good range with what I have, I don't miss, or even think about, the 3 rings being gone up front, nor do I ever find myself wishing they were back. The bike feels like it lost a "ton" of weight with those three rings gone.
hey , just watching and there was chat about riveted front chain ring sets , if have and dont want to spend the $4 for bolted , take a grinder and grind the ones you dont want till round , i have on few doing the small and large leaving the middle and the outer bigger make for a kind of chain guide of bash ring then , cheers
Spindatt how about changing from 3x to 2x? Shifter has switch to change to 2x. Can I keep same front derailleur? Will be buying a specific 2x chainset (for my sons bike)
The current front derailleur will more than likely work. BUT, front derailleur can be had for so crazy cheap, it’s almost worth buying one “just because”
@@Spindatt Your mountain biking buddies would probably have a front derailleur for free/beer. No way I would pay 25% of retail for a mtn bike front derailleur. Just have to find the right people or shops for the right bargain.
@@nicksadler9797 with a 32 chainring and a 11 cog your max speed is around 30 km/h. I have a 32 with 11-40 Acera 9s, would recommend 34 with 11-42, it´s a 0.81 ratio a bit hard on steep climbs but doable
I am still struggling to see how a 1-speed chainset is going to be better for me personally, I use the larger 44 chainring on the front a lot, I could easily forgo the granny ring, I rarely use it, if at all, 32/32 is usually low enough
Interesting video. I'm considering converting an old '92 MTB to a 1X. I been using it as a commuter bike for a long time now. And as you stated, I just put it in the mid front ring and leave it there! I'm not sure if the chainrings are riveted on? It's at my local shop where it's getting a tune up which hasn't been done in decades and am having some more modern bars and shorter stem installed. I will take a closer look when I get it back. My shop said it's not worth converting to 1x and they are probably right. But I'm still curious. I love the Front Deraileur hack! When I get it back, I'll look into that!
"Clutch rear derailleurs only come in a 10 speed and up" But correct me if i'm wrong, It does not matter right? The shifter does the indexing. I have a 9speed rear derailleur on one of my 7speed bikes and it works like a charm.
indexing and clutch effect are completely different... you are correct indexing is at the shifter , the clutch effect is basically like when your old diacompe Der would get crusty and caked with dirt and grease from the quaker state 20/50 you used to lube it 6 months ago and it now moves in slow motion due to the gunk and grit bumming up the pivots..... the clutches add drag to the spring so the derailleur cant flop around as the bike is bounced to hell
@@RaptorV1USA Yeah, I 100% understand what indexing, and the clutch functions are. The video states "Clutch rear derailleur only come in 10 speed and up" My point is you can use a 10 speed derailleur on a 9, 8, or even 7 speed cassette. I've had 0 problems running say a 9 speed derailleur on a 7 speed cassette. You can even use 10 speed chains on a 7 speed. Everything works perfect. One caveat is, you may have to run a 10 speed chain to compensate for a narrower cage on the 10 speed derailleur.
I think my conversation on my beater bike was the most ghetto. I couldn’t fine a crank puller that would work on my shitty suntour cranks so i just hack sawed the chainrings off and then just slid the new nock off raceface narrow wide one on.
Sounds like I can put any size chainring with my cassette, with a preference but not a necessity to have narrow/wide teeth. Man, this allows me to build a 1x that actually covers my needed gear range!
So what is the advantage of converting to A 1X drivetrain. I am by no means a bike expert, far from it. But it just seems reducing your gearing options would be a step backwards wouldn't it?
Installing a 1x isn't really an upgrade, it's just become more popular because the majority of everyday cyclists don't utilize 24 gears. The technology behind a 1x drivetrain has a similar ratio of gears without the need to shift through as many gears.
@Robert Trageser I agree. 1x was created to mostly appease to people who don't know how to ride their bikes. Sram discovered that if you make something inferior but lie about it strong enough, people will buy your discourse and just start buying new things. It's the American way.
I know this is, now, a couple year old video. But I’m hoping you’re still going to read this comment. I NEED HELP! I’m getting into Mountain Bikes much more these days. I have an older 3x9 bike, a 2008 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo (a $1100 bike at the time). It has NEVER operated correctly at all. The bike shop I purchased it from was awful and never admitted to an issue with the chain slipping under power (without shifting) on the front three gears. I would like to fix this issue myself. I’d like to convert the bike IDEALLY to a 1x10 drivetrain. I have not been able to find reliable information on what parts may fit on my bike though. There are just so so so many available. Where can I go (online) to find part compatibility? Is there a 10 speed cassette I can put on my hub? Etc. etc. etc. Your video has been the most informative I’ve been able to find so far. Thank you so very much!
20 or lower, 30 or 40, 40 or 60 higher 3x will have more performance then a 1x. And you can get similar high 40low rear with high 11/10 rear. Which means this is a downgrade. Because a 3x would give higher hill climbing performance with less gears, And less gears = thicker chain ring sprocket teeth = better strength. Yes 10/11/12/13/14speeds Are narrower design = weaker in strength. This makes them prone to shifting front end probs then normal 3x's, which means you need to have a pretty spot on up-front chain ring line or else your shifting fails. A 3by9 with 40-11 would destroy a 1by13 with 52-11 by massive. Because the front would allow a dramatic lower teeth switch from a 30-52 to 15-40 for hill climbing performance. or 30-40 for mid, and 55-11 for speed. Yes it's abit extra weight and a front derailleur. But you get better over all strength, performance, and ease of use. And reduce chain drop, Since if your normally riding middle, if a chain drops it'll slip into the lower chain which then would easily hop back up. Vs overall just falling off.
You are right that the 3x has more gearing ratios available and therefore is capable of better performance. The advantage that the video's poster is really chasing is that the 1x has a more elegant design. If you aren't supposed to go low-to-high or high-to-low on your 3x, there are wasted theoretical gear ratios, and then there are also likely to be redundant theoretical gear ratios. He just can't admit that this is about minimalism and elegance of design because he is someone who puts hardware in his face, so for now he'll have to decide that he's expressing himself with those 1x ratios. Unfortunately that makes for a poor argument as to why someone else should do it.
Very useful video! I know it's been a few days but I needed to share, You can use 10s clutch derailleurs with 9 or 8 speed drivetrains as long as you use sram 8/9 speed shifters. I currently have a 10s zee derailleour with an 8spd sram cassette, chain and shifter on my dh bike and works perfect! Cheers
I had read this as well, but didn't want to add toooooo much of the fun mix and match stuff in as to not confuse the beginner wrenches too much. Good info!
@@georgeb.wolffsohn30 so you can always keep your cadence exactly where you want it. It feels incredible! I have tiagra 4700 20 speed on my bike, I plan to convert to 1X too. My front derailleur was playing up and I realised that I almost only use the 34T chainring anyway, I only really need a few faster gears. Going to get an 11-36 cassette with a 38t chainring and hopefully there wont be too many gaps in my cadence
My fat bike has a hacked together 1x10 Shimano setup. Very much used to have a 3x on the front that I ran by removing the biggest and smallest chainrings for quite a long time until I finally decided that dropping my chain was getting old and irritating. Narrow wide chainring made a huge difference but I still drop my chain if I crash.
Shimano offers a 11spd cassette that fits 10spd road hubs I did a 1x11 set up on my Cervelo P1, Shimano ultegra gx clutch derailleur, a ultegra cs-800 cassette (11-34) a Dura ace 11spd bar end shifter and a Garabuk 56t narrow wide chain ring Shimano 11spd MTB cassettes work on 10spd hubs There is a company in Montreal that will modify 11speed common carrier cassettes to fit 10spd hubs
Funny seeing all the naysayers in the comments from just a few years ago when basically all new bikes are a 1x drive train. Granted new bikes are on a 1x12 drive train but, if you look at the numbers for converting say a 3x9 to a 1x11, the main part you are missing out on is the really high gear for downhill speed. For a lot of mountain bikes, you don't really need that top end as a lot of downhill stuff you are coasting but you do need that low end granny gear to get up the hill. If you look at the gear ratio of a 3x9 that has a 22-34-44 chain ring setup and a 11-34 cassette, the lowest ratio is .65 (22/34) and the highest is a 4.00 (44/11). Compare that to a 1x11 with a 34 tooth chain ring and a cassette that ranges from 11-51 and the lowest ratio is .67 (34/51) and the highest is 3.09 (34/11). If you look at the ratio for each gear combo of the 3x9 you will see that you are only missing out on the highest 2 gear ratios. It's the two smallest cogs on the cassette against that 44 tooth ring and those are a 3.38 and 4.00 gearing ratio. I think it's really subjective and up to the person but on the low end you're really not missing anything when switching to a 1x system and on the high end you are missing out on the two highest gears only when you are in the biggest ring. How often are you in the absolute highest gear you have, going down and pedaling hard on a mountain bike? I would say rarely. If you look at all the gearing ratios like that, you see that yeah you have a lot of options but there is a TON of overlap and going down to a 1x system means you are trimming complexity and weight and only giving up 2 gears that you probably don't use very often anyway. I think it's a win. And if you wanna spend a bit more money on a new rear wheel you can often times get a 12 speed to work on an older bike and then you would have a top end ratio of 3.4. I just don't see a lot of weigh behind the argument that a 3x system is SO much better.
What has kept me from taking the leap is the cost of the rear rim. Cycles Lambert, which is the wholesaler in Canada for bike stores. Doesn't carry a rim that will accept a 11 speed cassette. Unless your willing to spend over $200. Don't ask me go to Flea Bay and pay duty, taxes etc either. Its about cost to me. Don't like these new 1x bikes by Trek or Norco cause they use a small Crank of 28T. I'm use to a 48/36/26 on a mountain bike.
Liked, subscribed, and here is my comment. The only thing left is to share, soooo, I plan to share this in my upcoming video about oval chainrings vs round chainrings on a raceface cinch system. Hoping you can go full time UA-cam vlogger before 2020 Eric. You are very entertaining. Really enjoy your personality and the delivery.
Thanks! I didn't realize you were also creating content! I'll be over to view later tonight! Fingers crossed on the full time life. Putting in the grind so far in 2018!
I have round and oval rings. I will say initially i noticed a difference moving between round amd oval but this sensation faded quickly. However i have noticed my legs feeling better after riding oval. Placebo, maybe does that matter? Probably not. Im going to replacing one of my ovals with another oval so I'll do a video of that for funs.
Why do it though? what is the benefit? Just keep the ability to shift your front derailleur if you gonna keep it as "chain guide" anyways. What are you saving by eliminating the chainrings...like 300 to 500g? doesn't matter at all.
Lol, that's how I ride my free beater anyways, I just keep it on the middle chainring and only shift the rear. It has a decent range of climb and speed
No the other chain rings have rivets connecting them instead of bolt on, since it is a free beater walmart bike it is pretty low end but I just ride around the city and campus. However I take care of it enough to ensure it rides well, regreased the bearings and everything once they were starting to wobble, the brakes work beautifully, and I changed out the MTB 29" tires and threw some 700c x 38c tires on the same rims to decrease rolling resistance. It works out nicely though and doing little sprints from stoplight to stoplight, the 7 gears is plenty. (However when I threw some spd clipless pedals on, I maxed out the gears, 3rd chainring on 7th gear and it felt like nothing lol) But I put flats back on since I never do long distances on it, only say 5-10 miles a day
Awesome video. For bolted 3xs, how does the spacing work? Do you have to use the middle chain ring? As in, the large and small rings are attached to the spider which is part of the middle ring? I was worried if I tried to do 1x with a bolted 3x I would need to use spacers to keep something like the middle ring aligned correctly, etcetera. Thanks
Great video. My son in law has brought a used Fat Bike with a 40t chain ring and is finding it hard work. Its a cheap crank set which is riveted so I have suggested we fit a tripe CS I have and adjust it so it stays on the middle chain ring. Just hope it works !
Hey man, I have a 2006 rockhopper. I'd like to up the drivetrain. It has deore lx now with 3x9. Saw a Shimano XT kit 1x11. How would I know if it would fit? The reason I'm contemplating upgrading parts is that newer bikes $$$ but have entry level components. Seems like might as well get the best parts I can afford and build it the way I want it...
I just got an 11x46 (!) 9 sp. sunrace cassette matched with a now 2x ( dropped the 46t Big ring ) front setup, adjusted the Ft Der. and boom 27 speed to 18 speed with wider range so far ive not had a problem riding anything i rode before and the drivetrain ran PERFECTLY and quietly under my 240LB phat ass. very impressed after a few more rides, I'll figure out if i can drop the Ft der and 1 more Ch.ring up front altogether soon, and for those claiming " downgrade" ..Think again.. .if it improves the experience by : simplifying, lightening, eliminating redundancies, It's an upgrade in my book. In my 30 yrs of MTBing there have been many gears in 21 then 24, then 27 that we rarely used, so much so that eliminating them did not negatively affect the experience. & moving from 3x7 to 3x9 was a minimal improvement mostly seen in larger range options vs super tight ratios that mattered. ive bene working hard to rwrap my head around these new drivetrains and how it is better (?) to have only 12 speeds vs 24+++ the crazy range in rear cassettes whether 11 or 12 sp has been huge BITD u could find a 13/32 or a 12/28 it took years before there was a 34 t rear cog casette avail. i used to buy 13/34 and 12/28 cogsets and mix and match them to get a CRAZY!! at the time 12/34 (!) running a 20-22t Titanium ft Chainring.. & a 48 tooth big ring.
That's what I don't know: how many sprockets will fit on my 06' Specialized MTB: it is not stock hub/wheel, as I recently replaced but fits the 06 frame as a replacement. I think the bike shop dude said a 10 would fit, be cool to get an 11, man that front shifting 3×9 sucks.
I have a gt Aggressor pro I just got a 40t N/W chainring but I'm keeping the stock 8 gears in the rear for now. Will the stock chain be ok and will I need a chain guide? Ive always kept the front gear on the largest of the three (42T) so I don't see why it wouldn't work. This is the first video I actually learned stuff. I subscribed. Thanks for any input.
The 9spd derailleur showed (deore m591) is absolutely usable with 10spd casette, and can reach up to 40t casettes without roadlink (specified 34). Just throw in a longer B screw.
I am a novice but every time I have had a 3x bike it would jump and skip after so long and well my 1x did that too recentley but it took longer to get to that point. So it's an upgrade because it takes longer to start jumping and skipping I think. This is quite important to me because it is often the case that a bike shop will not want to help me.
Oh my gosh, someone finally notes the change to 1x is not necessarily an upgrade, but is a conversion! And, if someone wants it to be a 1x on a budget, just use one of the front chainrings and never shift! Bam! A 1x!
It is but the range will be awful, if your hub can take 8 speed cassette, you can get an 8 speed wide range cassette, a microshift advent, a 1 by crank and a new chain, in my opinion the cost is not worth it, just dial in your limit screws and cable tension on your 3x7
Hi, just to confirm with the ghetto 1x conversion I could just remove the non used chainrings from the 3x and rework the front deraulier as a chain device and then I have my self a 1x drivetrain.
know this is an older video but you said you liked to tinker and I cant find the answers anywhere so hoping you can help. I want to use dropbar shifters on a 1x10 set up with a 42t chain ring and 11-42t on the back. i have an old 105 shifter (10 speed) so was hoping to find a rear derailleur that could work but it would seem there arent any that work to that max size sprocket with shimano road shifters? is that the case or is that just manufacturer arse covering. Ie can I use a tiagra 10 speed 4700 GS + cable hanger extender to get there? combinded with a deore 11-42t cassette (my understanding is the attenuation on a deore RD wont be compatible with road shifters).
My front gear is 3 speed. On internet it says 104/64 bcd, but What is the middel one. It is a shimano fc ty501. I figured out that the middel one is 138mm but What bcd do i need? A 64bcd or 104bcd?
Really? How new are we talking? We tried this on Aaron’s mavic crossride a few months ago and no go. Double bummer because usually mavic is amazing for 11 speed compatibility
Ohhhhhh yeah!!! That’s what it was. Only the mountain 11 speed cassettes work, but not the road. We were trying to put on a 105 11 speed cassette on that didn’t “wrap” over the flange like the mtb ones do. You are correct! Although I’ve never actually done it myself. Yet. Haha
I have an sram X0 3x10. The crank drive arm has bust so I need to replace the crank and am looking for a 1x but I can only seem to find 11 or 12 speed. Can I get away with keeping all the 10 speed rear and chain onto an 11 speed crank?
I'm thinking back converting my 4-speed Chevy truck to a 1 speed transmission
I'm thinking about converting my 4-speed Chevy truck to a 1 speed transmission
@@janetsers4895 i did that on my 75 ford if you use the transfer case as a front derailer it helps on the clutch smoke and you can breath just realy hard not breaking drive shfts go with 2nd 4th worked ok on road but it sucked trying to get there have fun with that
CVT!
😂 😆 oss
Did you go into the race gear on the highway?
I'm glad I kept my 3X10 mountain bike. It's super versatile, going up 20% hills on the trails or road touring with large gears and being able to keep close to my best candace. The chain also lasts very long with little crossover. Also, the front gears need little maintenance since for every 20 times I change the back gears, I only change the front once. Sometimes the original ideas are the best. Like my rear rack, with the arrival of bikepacking I never took the rear rack off, it is useful for large or small panniers, a backpack, drybag or just a wind breaker, so useful.
I ride a bike with a 3x8 transmission and I would not change that at all. It has all the range that I need in speed. With the missing larger chainring, you are missing the benefits of the higher speed and you would need at least 11t or 12t on the cassette to achieve the high speeds on the road. On higher ascent grade hills, the granny gear on the crankset would be a great asset so the legs won’t get tired and for slippery dirt terrain, you have more traction control. My next bike if I decided to, it would have multiple chainrings in the front. To have a 1x11 or a 1x12, the chain needs to strain itself by angling it in order to get the biggest gear on the cassette. I would go for a 3x9 or a 3x10 for an upgrade. Peace!
They now offer 10 tooth rears. I just upgraded my 9x2 11/26-39/53
Just got 2021 rockhopper 1x, imo it is nowhere near as good as my 2011 3x
@@mexxchattaway6719 You just saved me money. I thank you.
You're absolutely right if you want or need to do everything with one bike. That's why I refrained from changing my travel bike from 3x8 with 50-36-26 chainrings to a 11 gear Aldine. The total transmission range is way too low to be fast on the pavement AND being able to climb with added baggage.
And that's also what I don't about modern MTBs with 1x12 or such, but only a 32T chainring in the front: climbing is not an issue with 11-50 casettes, but don't those people ever want to drive fast?!
Came back to this video as a reference for my MTB and I'm using the front integrated brake/shifter lever with shifter as a dropper post lever!
FINALLY someone explained the purpose of a clutch CLEARLY
*This video is probably the best explanation I’ve seen thus far.*
How is a 3X to 1X an upgrade? I switched from 3X to 1X and i consider it a side-grade: less choices but more simple and less weight.
Narrow-wide + chain-guide is definitely the way to go. Bonus if you throw on a "wide range" cassette.
Thanks! You helped me decide not to bother doing this, as I ride my 3 by on the centre ring only and it has integrated brake/shifter levers.
Add to that, it's an early 90's Gary Fisher and I like how it's almost original.
Wow, I never knew why a narrow-wide chain was better. Didn’t know that the wide only fit between the outer plates👊🏻
Aha great timing! I was just thinking about how to tinker with my entry level mtb earlier today
You should consider starting an online store, stocking parts that you present and have tested. I, for one, would buy the 5 bolts, 130 BCD chainring, you are using in this video.
I actually just kind of do that exact thing but through affiliate links instead. If something is purchased on Amazon through my links, I profit from it! And that way, I don't have to stock anything!
You can ride clutch on 9 speed or lower. Tge only need is a converter. Buy one or print one. I ride clutch (rd-m6000) on 3x8 speed and next time on 3x9
Why do you think 1x is an upgrade? I love my 3x.
Living in flat Forida, as I do, I really don't need the complications in maintenance of my 21 speed MTB. I removed the derailers. I converted the rear deraller to a chain tensioner by removed the spring that displaces the chain laterally. I saw that on another utube clip. While at work, I also replaced the flat handlebar with an elevated stem and a swallow handlebar. Now I can ride my MTB like a Dutch gentleman in Amsterdam, upright and comfortably. The spring seat I bought for less than $20. adds a rear suspension to the front suspension that came with the MTB. Why did I buy a 21 speed MTB in the first place? Because they are much less expensive than other bikes - which I think are terribly overprices by comparison. My MTB cost me less than $100, new, in a box months ago. Now, it costs about $50. more. The MTB has a front suspension and aluminum alloy in the frame. The cruisers, etc., in the bike shops start at $400, are all steel, no suspension at all and single speed!
Dutch Gentleman? Do they offer that model?
Recently bought a Rocky Mountain Soul 27.5 that was used by a bike mech friend of mine. It has a 11-40t Cassette and 1x 9 30t speed in the front. No front mech, no guide. And haven't dropped the chain once in Shorthill Provincial Park. Rear Mech is Acera M3000 Shadow. So your point on 1x is correct.
I bought a One Up components oval chain ring for my entry level Norco XC bike. It was 2x9 before, the oval chain ring had been great. Will be pairing it with a Box components prime 9 system
You can usualy use a 10 speed derailuer on a 9 speed caset and you can drill out the rivits if you have a stamped crankset if you have an integrated shifter you can just buy a cheap brake leaver.
I mainly ride my mountain bike on road. So maybe that’s why I’m okay with a 3x8. Lol I feel I’m the only one who likes it. This was a cool vid.
I'm not changing mine. I have 3x9. I ride mostly in the city.
10:54 Yeah for road and gravel bikes maybe, not MTB's. I put a standard CS-M8000 XT 11 speed cassette on my Hope Sport just fine and that hub was made over twenty years ago. When a manufacturer say something like "11 speed compatible" rather than being helpful and reassuring it's usually a way of misleading you into assuming that your old stuff is obsolete.
I also run a 1x10 SRAM X9 on a Scott Spark 35 upgraded from 3x10. I simply replaced the crankset with a SRAM GX one and it works really great.
1x 10sp on my XC bike, 32t Hope oval chainring, XT derailleur with clutch that I NEVER switch on. No dropped chains, the Hope ring is that good. Where I live we regularly ride 350m hills at over 20% incline, so 32t is a must. Road bike still 2x10sp.
If you have an 8 speed cassette and a crankset with a 110 BCD you can use a rennen Design Group Pro BMX chainring. The 8-speed chain fits single speed chain rings nice and snug. Really any single speed chainring with large teeth will work.
I know this is older, but still being asked about all-over the place... I'm converting to a 1x simple because the front chainring/derailleur doesn't seem to play nice no matter how it's adjusted, without warning or reason it comes off the front, always the front, and I primarily use 1 chainring anyways. I've been collecting parts so I can do this all at once and shouldn't need to go buy parts.
But know the truth about a 1x setup, it WILL cost $$$... Unless you totally ghetto the setup somehow, and at that point you may not even have the benefits of a 1x, it will cost $$$. Not changing the rear cassette will just rob you of gear selection and make a 1x suck for you.
My suggestion is a simple one... Ride someones elses bike (more than around the lot) that has a 1x setup, You'll know if it's a GOOD setup for you. I was lucky and was able to rent a similar bike to mine for a day that was a 1x11 setup, and for my local trails, it worked... But I can see how it may not be ideal with other types of trails.
Let's face it - the reason your bike came with a 2x or 3x setup from the factory, was it sounds better to say "21 speed" or "27 speed" than it does to say "11 speed"... that's it, it's marketing hype and availability cheap parts more than the fact that you have some duplicates anyways. This year saying "1x" is the new catchphrase of the day, and next year it will be "pinion gear" or "CVT gearing" or something else they come up with.
What works is what works for you and how you ride, not just because it's the new catchphrase of the day.
But tell me, don't you have more range opportunities if you have a mountain bike that u can lock out and do street w/hills? {with 3 sprocket front}
@@torrolindsey3459 all I know for sure is that I had so many issues with the front derailleur that "went away" with the 1X system. I have a very good range with what I have, I don't miss, or even think about, the 3 rings being gone up front, nor do I ever find myself wishing they were back. The bike feels like it lost a "ton" of weight with those three rings gone.
Best part of a !X setup?? Hearing the thud as your front derailleur hits the bottom of the trash can......😁😁😁😁😁😁
If you have a nine speed get a 10s rear derailleur and just close the limit screws as needed, it usually works
hey , just watching and there was chat about riveted front chain ring sets , if have and dont want to spend the $4 for bolted , take a grinder and grind the ones you dont want till round , i have on few doing the small and large leaving the middle and the outer bigger make for a kind of chain guide of bash ring then , cheers
Smart
I was thinking of a 1x system... best video that brainstorms the options. Thanks!
I’ve got a 2015 whyte 801 with 3x9. Will be looking at going 1x10 this year sometime. Probably I’ll buy a mix and match of used and new components.
That’s the way I do things too!
Spindatt how about changing from 3x to 2x? Shifter has switch to change to 2x. Can I keep same front derailleur? Will be buying a specific 2x chainset (for my sons bike)
The current front derailleur will more than likely work. BUT, front derailleur can be had for so crazy cheap, it’s almost worth buying one “just because”
@@Spindatt Your mountain biking buddies would probably have a front derailleur for free/beer. No way I would pay 25% of retail for a mtn bike front derailleur. Just have to find the right people or shops for the right bargain.
2×10 would be far better.
Best cycling video ever. Thorough and accurate explanations, BMX phone game, burrito, and a dog. Ticks every box...
Do I have to change my derailleur to covert to 1x? I’m not clear on that.
Is it truly an upgrade? I would call it a change.
Devon Plumley why
Devon Plumley you’re wrong.
@@devonplumley7600 saying it’s better without quantifying your claim is worthless.
I'm going to switch from a 9 by 3 to 1 by, with either 32 or34 n/w chainring, I think it will work OK with Shamano Deore xt derailleur!
Did it work? I’ve got the deore XT derailleur and want to do the same
@@nicksadler9797 with a 32 chainring and a 11 cog your max speed is around 30 km/h. I have a 32 with 11-40 Acera 9s, would recommend 34 with 11-42, it´s a 0.81 ratio a bit hard on steep climbs but doable
Great Video... I think you're take on 1x has pushed me over the edge to order the narrow wide ring for my DA9000 cranks.
you can drill out the rivets on the cheaper 3x chain ring works great i have done it alot
That must weaken the remaking ring flexing etc 3rings supported each other for strength
I am still struggling to see how a 1-speed chainset is going to be better for me personally, I use the larger 44 chainring on the front a lot, I could easily forgo the granny ring, I rarely use it, if at all, 32/32 is usually low enough
You explained a lot of things about drive trains really well, thank you!
*Gratuitous Burrito footage* ...Norton might have been a little jealous.
Think I could go the ghetto path with an 8-speed Alivio groupset and a narrow wide chainring, or too old/not enough spring tension?
yes, can be done
The Crux! 1x drivetrains for cheap! AND burritos, and Norton too!... GREAT winter bike video :)
Interesting video.
I'm considering converting an old '92 MTB to a 1X. I been using it as a commuter bike for a long time now. And as you stated, I just put it in the mid front ring and leave it there! I'm not sure if the chainrings are riveted on?
It's at my local shop where it's getting a tune up which hasn't been done in decades and am having some more modern bars and shorter stem installed. I will take a closer look when I get it back.
My shop said it's not worth converting to 1x and they are probably right. But I'm still curious.
I love the Front Deraileur hack! When I get it back, I'll look into that!
"Clutch rear derailleurs only come in a 10 speed and up" But correct me if i'm wrong, It does not matter right? The shifter does the indexing. I have a 9speed rear derailleur on one of my 7speed bikes and it works like a charm.
indexing and clutch effect are completely different... you are correct indexing is at the shifter , the clutch effect is basically like when your old diacompe Der would get crusty and caked with dirt and grease from the quaker state 20/50 you used to lube it 6 months ago and it now moves in slow motion due to the gunk and grit bumming up the pivots..... the clutches add drag to the spring so the derailleur cant flop around as the bike is bounced to hell
@@RaptorV1USA Yeah, I 100% understand what indexing, and the clutch functions are. The video states "Clutch rear derailleur only come in 10 speed and up" My point is you can use a 10 speed derailleur on a 9, 8, or even 7 speed cassette. I've had 0 problems running say a 9 speed derailleur on a 7 speed cassette. You can even use 10 speed chains on a 7 speed. Everything works perfect. One caveat is, you may have to run a 10 speed chain to compensate for a narrower cage on the 10 speed derailleur.
I think my conversation on my beater bike was the most ghetto. I couldn’t fine a crank puller that would work on my shitty suntour cranks so i just hack sawed the chainrings off and then just slid the new nock off raceface narrow wide one on.
Sounds like I can put any size chainring with my cassette, with a preference but not a necessity to have narrow/wide teeth. Man, this allows me to build a 1x that actually covers my needed gear range!
MicroShift just dropped a BUDGET 1x9 system with a clutch. It looks pretty good.
And, of course, SRAM NX is out there, too.
How much?
So what is the advantage of converting to A 1X drivetrain. I am by no means a bike expert, far from it. But it just seems reducing your gearing options would be a step backwards wouldn't it?
Installing a 1x isn't really an upgrade, it's just become more popular because the majority of everyday cyclists don't utilize 24 gears.
The technology behind a 1x drivetrain has a similar ratio of gears without the need to shift through as many gears.
Less complexity, reduced weight, and more handlebar space.
@Robert Trageser I agree. 1x was created to mostly appease to people who don't know how to ride their bikes. Sram discovered that if you make something inferior but lie about it strong enough, people will buy your discourse and just start buying new things. It's the American way.
I know this is, now, a couple year old video. But I’m hoping you’re still going to read this comment. I NEED HELP! I’m getting into Mountain Bikes much more these days. I have an older 3x9 bike, a 2008 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo (a $1100 bike at the time). It has NEVER operated correctly at all. The bike shop I purchased it from was awful and never admitted to an issue with the chain slipping under power (without shifting) on the front three gears. I would like to fix this issue myself. I’d like to convert the bike IDEALLY to a 1x10 drivetrain. I have not been able to find reliable information on what parts may fit on my bike though. There are just so so so many available. Where can I go (online) to find part compatibility? Is there a 10 speed cassette I can put on my hub? Etc. etc. etc. Your video has been the most informative I’ve been able to find so far. Thank you so very much!
Shimano's Alivio range has a 9 speed Shadow design rear mech
That’s good news!
planning to do an Alivio 1x soon, too. :D
Good news you can get a 9 speed shadow derailleur!!
Jogie Glen Mait and if you break it, BUY THE M772 DEORE XT!
20 or lower, 30 or 40, 40 or 60 higher 3x will have more performance then a 1x. And you can get similar high 40low rear with high 11/10 rear. Which means this is a downgrade. Because a 3x would give higher hill climbing performance with less gears, And less gears = thicker chain ring sprocket teeth = better strength. Yes 10/11/12/13/14speeds Are narrower design = weaker in strength. This makes them prone to shifting front end probs then normal 3x's, which means you need to have a pretty spot on up-front chain ring line or else your shifting fails.
A 3by9 with 40-11 would destroy a 1by13 with 52-11 by massive. Because the front would allow a dramatic lower teeth switch from a 30-52 to 15-40 for hill climbing performance. or 30-40 for mid, and 55-11 for speed.
Yes it's abit extra weight and a front derailleur. But you get better over all strength, performance, and ease of use. And reduce chain drop, Since if your normally riding middle, if a chain drops it'll slip into the lower chain which then would easily hop back up. Vs overall just falling off.
You are right that the 3x has more gearing ratios available and therefore is capable of better performance. The advantage that the video's poster is really chasing is that the 1x has a more elegant design. If you aren't supposed to go low-to-high or high-to-low on your 3x, there are wasted theoretical gear ratios, and then there are also likely to be redundant theoretical gear ratios. He just can't admit that this is about minimalism and elegance of design because he is someone who puts hardware in his face, so for now he'll have to decide that he's expressing himself with those 1x ratios. Unfortunately that makes for a poor argument as to why someone else should do it.
Don't bother with super expensive narrow wide chain-rings if you ride on pavement. You can pick up cheap aluminium BMX chain ring on Ebay for $10-$15.
And 6 years later BMX C.R. is currently priced higher. Who Knew?
Correction of my old statement I absolutely love 1x vs 3x crank set ups much easier.
Very useful video! I know it's been a few days but I needed to share, You can use 10s clutch derailleurs with 9 or 8 speed drivetrains as long as you use sram 8/9 speed shifters. I currently have a 10s zee derailleour with an 8spd sram cassette, chain and shifter on my dh bike and works perfect! Cheers
I had read this as well, but didn't want to add toooooo much of the fun mix and match stuff in as to not confuse the beginner wrenches too much. Good info!
Videos are great! You are very clear and humorous. And a local guy, you are!
Thanks! Your in Nova Scotia?
I'm literally about to make the switch to 1x!!
I have 20 speed tiagra 4700 for road and it's very flat in Dallas. Great video!
Why 20 speeds if it's so flat ?
@@georgeb.wolffsohn30 so you can always keep your cadence exactly where you want it. It feels incredible! I have tiagra 4700 20 speed on my bike, I plan to convert to 1X too. My front derailleur was playing up and I realised that I almost only use the 34T chainring anyway, I only really need a few faster gears. Going to get an 11-36 cassette with a 38t chainring and hopefully there wont be too many gaps in my cadence
Thanks for explaining this subject clearly. I’m thinking of doing my commuter a 1 x
My fat bike has a hacked together 1x10 Shimano setup. Very much used to have a 3x on the front that I ran by removing the biggest and smallest chainrings for quite a long time until I finally decided that dropping my chain was getting old and irritating. Narrow wide chainring made a huge difference but I still drop my chain if I crash.
same with my bikes. In the event of a crash or bad mistake, I still experience some chain drop. I'm okay with that though
Since this video came out some 8 and 9 speeds have now got a clutch
nice video, i have always been 1x
Shimano offers a 11spd cassette that fits 10spd road hubs
I did a 1x11 set up on my Cervelo P1, Shimano ultegra gx clutch derailleur, a ultegra cs-800 cassette (11-34) a Dura ace 11spd bar end shifter and a Garabuk 56t narrow wide chain ring
Shimano 11spd MTB cassettes work on 10spd hubs
There is a company in Montreal that will modify 11speed common carrier cassettes to fit 10spd hubs
Funny seeing all the naysayers in the comments from just a few years ago when basically all new bikes are a 1x drive train. Granted new bikes are on a 1x12 drive train but, if you look at the numbers for converting say a 3x9 to a 1x11, the main part you are missing out on is the really high gear for downhill speed.
For a lot of mountain bikes, you don't really need that top end as a lot of downhill stuff you are coasting but you do need that low end granny gear to get up the hill.
If you look at the gear ratio of a 3x9 that has a 22-34-44 chain ring setup and a 11-34 cassette, the lowest ratio is .65 (22/34) and the highest is a 4.00 (44/11). Compare that to a 1x11 with a 34 tooth chain ring and a cassette that ranges from 11-51 and the lowest ratio is .67 (34/51) and the highest is 3.09 (34/11).
If you look at the ratio for each gear combo of the 3x9 you will see that you are only missing out on the highest 2 gear ratios. It's the two smallest cogs on the cassette against that 44 tooth ring and those are a 3.38 and 4.00 gearing ratio.
I think it's really subjective and up to the person but on the low end you're really not missing anything when switching to a 1x system and on the high end you are missing out on the two highest gears only when you are in the biggest ring.
How often are you in the absolute highest gear you have, going down and pedaling hard on a mountain bike? I would say rarely.
If you look at all the gearing ratios like that, you see that yeah you have a lot of options but there is a TON of overlap and going down to a 1x system means you are trimming complexity and weight and only giving up 2 gears that you probably don't use very often anyway.
I think it's a win.
And if you wanna spend a bit more money on a new rear wheel you can often times get a 12 speed to work on an older bike and then you would have a top end ratio of 3.4.
I just don't see a lot of weigh behind the argument that a 3x system is SO much better.
i like the thoroughness of this video. answered all my questions. thanks for taking the time.
What has kept me from taking the leap is the cost of the rear rim. Cycles Lambert, which is the wholesaler in Canada for bike stores. Doesn't carry a rim that will accept a 11 speed cassette. Unless your willing to spend over $200. Don't ask me go to Flea Bay and pay duty, taxes etc either. Its about cost to me. Don't like these new 1x bikes by Trek or Norco cause they use a small Crank of 28T. I'm use to a 48/36/26 on a mountain bike.
Liked, subscribed, and here is my comment. The only thing left is to share, soooo, I plan to share this in my upcoming video about oval chainrings vs round chainrings on a raceface cinch system. Hoping you can go full time UA-cam vlogger before 2020 Eric. You are very entertaining. Really enjoy your personality and the delivery.
Thanks! I didn't realize you were also creating content! I'll be over to view later tonight!
Fingers crossed on the full time life. Putting in the grind so far in 2018!
So much content put out in 2018 that I can't keep up with your various new vids! My watch later playlist is getting out of control man!
I have round and oval rings. I will say initially i noticed a difference moving between round amd oval but this sensation faded quickly. However i have noticed my legs feeling better after riding oval. Placebo, maybe does that matter? Probably not. Im going to replacing one of my ovals with another oval so I'll do a video of that for funs.
Just learned a ton from this video! Very well put together!
Imho one by is only an upgrade if lower weight is your goal
Nice hollow tech tube ear rings!
Why do it though? what is the benefit?
Just keep the ability to shift your front derailleur if you gonna keep it as "chain guide" anyways. What are you saving by eliminating the chainrings...like 300 to 500g? doesn't matter at all.
Lol, that's how I ride my free beater anyways, I just keep it on the middle chainring and only shift the rear. It has a decent range of climb and speed
Have you had any problems with that? And have your tried removing the cabled two other chain rings?
No the other chain rings have rivets connecting them instead of bolt on, since it is a free beater walmart bike it is pretty low end but I just ride around the city and campus. However I take care of it enough to ensure it rides well, regreased the bearings and everything once they were starting to wobble, the brakes work beautifully, and I changed out the MTB 29" tires and threw some 700c x 38c tires on the same rims to decrease rolling resistance. It works out nicely though and doing little sprints from stoplight to stoplight, the 7 gears is plenty. (However when I threw some spd clipless pedals on, I maxed out the gears, 3rd chainring on 7th gear and it felt like nothing lol) But I put flats back on since I never do long distances on it, only say 5-10 miles a day
Awesome video. For bolted 3xs, how does the spacing work? Do you have to use the middle chain ring? As in, the large and small rings are attached to the spider which is part of the middle ring? I was worried if I tried to do 1x with a bolted 3x I would need to use spacers to keep something like the middle ring aligned correctly, etcetera. Thanks
Great video. My son in law has brought a used Fat Bike with a 40t chain ring and is finding it hard work. Its a cheap crank set which is riveted so I have suggested we fit a tripe CS I have and adjust it so it stays on the middle chain ring. Just hope it works !
Hey man, I have a 2006 rockhopper. I'd like to up the drivetrain. It has deore lx now with 3x9. Saw a Shimano XT kit 1x11. How would I know if it would fit? The reason I'm contemplating upgrading parts is that newer bikes $$$ but have entry level components. Seems like might as well get the best parts I can afford and build it the way I want it...
Can I put a 1×10 on back of older Specialized 06 MTB? Came with 3x9. Front shifter sucks. Good bike.
I notice there was no talk of 1x9 . There are 11-40t cassettes out there.
I just got an 11x46 (!) 9 sp. sunrace cassette matched with a now 2x ( dropped the 46t Big ring ) front setup, adjusted the Ft Der. and boom 27 speed to 18 speed with wider range so far ive not had a problem riding anything i rode before and the drivetrain ran PERFECTLY and quietly under my 240LB phat ass. very impressed after a few more rides, I'll figure out if i can drop the Ft der and 1 more Ch.ring up front altogether soon,
and for those claiming " downgrade"
..Think again.. .if it improves the experience by : simplifying, lightening, eliminating redundancies, It's an upgrade in my book. In my 30 yrs of MTBing there have been many gears in 21 then 24, then 27 that we rarely used, so much so that eliminating them did not negatively affect the experience. & moving from 3x7 to 3x9 was a minimal improvement mostly seen in larger range options vs super tight ratios that mattered.
ive bene working hard to rwrap my head around these new drivetrains and how it is better (?) to have only 12 speeds vs 24+++ the crazy range in rear cassettes whether 11 or 12 sp has been huge BITD u could find a 13/32 or a 12/28 it took years before there was a 34 t rear cog casette avail. i used to buy 13/34 and 12/28 cogsets and mix and match them to get a CRAZY!! at the time 12/34 (!) running a 20-22t Titanium ft Chainring.. & a 48 tooth big ring.
Could I not just fit a clutched 10 speed derailleur on my 8 speed ? 😊
Extremely helpful video! I'm in the middle of converting my daughter's 3x8 drivetrain to a 1x. I feel much more confident with your info! Thanks.
vara fouroneone how did it go? Is it easy or difficult. What do you all need to do it the not hack way
That's what I don't know: how many sprockets will fit on my 06' Specialized MTB: it is not stock hub/wheel, as I recently replaced but fits the 06 frame as a replacement. I think the bike shop dude said a 10 would fit, be cool to get an 11, man that front shifting 3×9 sucks.
Dude, the info you just gave me was super useful, TY.
What is the name of that Specialized bike?
I have a gt Aggressor pro I just got a 40t N/W chainring but I'm keeping the stock 8 gears in the rear for now. Will the stock chain be ok and will I need a chain guide? Ive always kept the front gear on the largest of the three (42T) so I don't see why it wouldn't work. This is the first video I actually learned stuff. I subscribed. Thanks for any input.
The 9spd derailleur showed (deore m591) is absolutely usable with 10spd casette, and can reach up to 40t casettes without roadlink (specified 34). Just throw in a longer B screw.
Curious, why is the change to a 1x considered an upgrade? You lose a lot of gearing options.
I am a novice but every time I have had a 3x bike it would jump and skip after so long and well my 1x did that too recentley but it took longer to get to that point. So it's an upgrade because it takes longer to start jumping and skipping I think. This is quite important to me because it is often the case that a bike shop will not want to help me.
Is the 1x drivetrain and upgrade or a downgrade 🤔🤔😂but i have three 1x bikes one dh mtb one trail mtb and a road bike
Oh my gosh, someone finally notes the change to 1x is not necessarily an upgrade, but is a conversion! And, if someone wants it to be a 1x on a budget, just use one of the front chainrings and never shift! Bam! A 1x!
The crux. Now adays called the rawnstercross. It feels weird to see it with paint on again
Very well done video. Not only great production value, but solid info delivered clean and to the point. Keep it up. SUBSCRIBED!
I hate chainrings; can i use different chainrings together - let's say SRAM 53T and Raceface 34T? or thee other way round?
Excellent video, I learned a lot.
thanks man!
You will have to pry my 3x Bio Pace chain rings from my cold dead feet😮😂..
I conveted a triple to a 1 x using a narrow wide chain ring. First ride the chain snapped.. not sure why.
Chain ring too large
I crave those baby sized burritos
What do you think about 1x 8
Is it possible to have only 1 drivetrain in a 3x7?
It is but the range will be awful, if your hub can take 8 speed cassette, you can get an 8 speed wide range cassette, a microshift advent, a 1 by crank and a new chain, in my opinion the cost is not worth it, just dial in your limit screws and cable tension on your 3x7
I just realized i replied to a 2 years old comment lol
Hi, just to confirm with the ghetto 1x conversion I could just remove the non used chainrings from the 3x and rework the front deraulier as a chain device and then I have my self a 1x drivetrain.
Don't give up your day job.
See that’s what I was told you finally got to it, that I would need to change rear derail,cassette and all that.......
know this is an older video but you said you liked to tinker and I cant find the answers anywhere so hoping you can help. I want to use dropbar shifters on a 1x10 set up with a 42t chain ring and 11-42t on the back. i have an old 105 shifter (10 speed) so was hoping to find a rear derailleur that could work but it would seem there arent any that work to that max size sprocket with shimano road shifters? is that the case or is that just manufacturer arse covering. Ie can I use a tiagra 10 speed 4700 GS + cable hanger extender to get there? combinded with a deore 11-42t cassette (my understanding is the attenuation on a deore RD wont be compatible with road shifters).
My front gear is 3 speed. On internet it says 104/64 bcd, but What is the middel one. It is a shimano fc ty501. I figured out that the middel one is 138mm but What bcd do i need? A 64bcd or 104bcd?
Great vid, very informative. I got old sram rival 1x10 on my jamis gravel bike.
Yum, giant burrito! Now I’m hungry.
Such a useful video, contains so much good information about 1x conversions. Many thanks.
Hey, FYI new Shimano MTB 11spd cassettes work on the old 10spd freehubs... but then you'd need a derailleur that could take a super wide range.
Really? How new are we talking? We tried this on Aaron’s mavic crossride a few months ago and no go. Double bummer because usually mavic is amazing for 11 speed compatibility
www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/article/shimano-deore-xt-m8000-11-speed-first-look-44084/
Ohhhhhh yeah!!! That’s what it was. Only the mountain 11 speed cassettes work, but not the road. We were trying to put on a 105 11 speed cassette on that didn’t “wrap” over the flange like the mtb ones do. You are correct! Although I’ve never actually done it myself. Yet. Haha
Also: thanks for being a rad commenter on these videos!
Yeah, you'd probably need a big ol' derailleur cage to make it work - but it could I'm sure. And it's a pleasure. Thanks for all the great content!
I have an sram X0 3x10. The crank drive arm has bust so I need to replace the crank and am looking for a 1x but I can only seem to find 11 or 12 speed. Can I get away with keeping all the 10 speed rear and chain onto an 11 speed crank?