Probably one of the coolest and interesting experiments I have done with the Striker 4. I think I may do the same with the Vivid 4 CV since it is a significantly more powerful transducer at 300 watts vs the Striker 4 at 200 watts
Hey there 1Cast, I was wondering if you ever had any problems with trolling motor noise messing with your in hull transducer mounting. I installed mine a while back just the same way with duct seal in hull under my seat. I use a PWM set up. I get a perfect reading while trolling at say 25%. The image noise gets real choppy anywhere above 40-50%. Do you know of a fix for this?
HI guys,thanks for the very informative video, actually i also has my transducer mounted inside a stealth kayak , [ fiber glasss ],its the second one that i'm replacing in 6month time,it stops shows depth, before i used to have it mounted outside submerged for maybe 4 years. no problem, noticing since the day i've had it mounted inside and the trouble begins,feel lost ,will need again to buy one, and will try it mounted outside this time
It's possible what's happening with "in-hull" mount is the transducer is sending out sonar signals it's not getting back and therefore boosts the power. I appreciate the hard-core science going into this video (especially the hurry-up and hydrate parts) but I'm wondering if this experiment might be flawed. For "lack of signal" causing a power boost to really show up, the main unit would have to be in Split Frequency and attempting to scan at the furthest depth possible. The test should probably include, running the transducer in water vs running the transducer in a bucket on the water. My assumption is doing this test in a 12" pail, compared to a 350' deep lake is where the difference of power/heat would really show up. NB. The test would ideally be run with a thermometer inside the transducer, providing live on the fly results. BTW: I would like to thank you so much for these amazing videos. I'm so new to this Garmin Striker that I haven't even used it for fishing yet but your videos have really helped me understand so many aspects of this fishfinder.
@@1Cast1Fish have not cast a line in the water since last fall kinda sucks! just have not been able to get out hopefully this fall I will get out and catch a few starting to get to damn hot to be out fishing in the day time lol!
First of all, your videos have been immensely helpful. Thank you. Question from earlier videos. When you are using the Striker 4 in simulation mode, "in the comfort of your home" how is the Striker powered? Is there a 115 volt converter or do you just bring in the unit and your battery from your kayak?
i want to mount mine like this but the fishing store told me i cant as it will block two of the 3 radio waves or something and be hopless as a fish finder i have a hobie pa14
Was talked out of buying the Garmin foam bad for my striker 4 cv today. I regret buying the arm and really want to in hull mount. Do you know if this would work on a Tarpon 120?
It is cheap and easy to give it a try. It would have to go into the hatch area since the transducer must have no air gaps, plus the transducer must be below the waterline as well. Most issues people have are on the installation side, but sometimes other problems prevent it from working 100%. I hate the arms as well, so I would give this a try.
Question. I have the Striker 4 Portable and noticed right when it hits depth of 26.2 and below. It keeps freaking out saying there are fish everywhere. I know its a bad reading. Any suggestions?
Hey there 1Cast, I was wondering if you ever had any problems with trolling motor noise messing with your in hull transducer mounting. I installed mine a while back just the same way with duct seal in hull under my seat. I use a PWM set up. I get a perfect reading while trolling at say 25%. The image noise gets real choppy anywhere above 40-50%. Do you know of a fix for this?
SO I know from past experience with Minkota, which uses a PWM type optimizer, that when a transducer was mounted on the motor barrel, I would get major interference when using the motor, and it would clear up once my foot was off the pedal. One thing that may help is items called ferrite beads...add a few on the fishfinder power and transducer cable...and even the trolling motor power cable. Also ensure there is no water interference when the motor is up in speed...it may be creating a turbulence zone at the transducer.
@@bermchasin Most fishfinders do not do very well in very shallow water...say less than 5ft. Has to do with t\how fast the sonar returns ping back and separation. This is why in shallow water the screen looks very cluttered and noisy normally. Sure it can be other things as well, but this is a major reason for this type of shallow water image. Also when sitting still any wave action will be shown in the image...the transducer will be moving up and down, and even side to side...so this will make the bottom jagged sometimes and odd looking.
Probably one of the coolest and interesting experiments I have done with the Striker 4. I think I may do the same with the Vivid 4 CV since it is a significantly more powerful transducer at 300 watts vs the Striker 4 at 200 watts
Hey there 1Cast, I was wondering if you ever had any problems with trolling motor noise messing with your in hull transducer mounting. I installed mine a while back just the same way with duct seal in hull under my seat. I use a PWM set up. I get a perfect reading while trolling at say 25%. The image noise gets real choppy anywhere above 40-50%. Do you know of a fix for this?
Answered in your other comment
HI guys,thanks for the very informative video, actually i also has my transducer mounted inside a stealth kayak , [ fiber glasss ],its the second one that i'm replacing in 6month time,it stops shows depth, before i used to have it mounted outside submerged for maybe 4 years. no problem, noticing since the day i've had it mounted inside and the trouble begins,feel lost ,will need again to buy one, and will try it mounted outside this time
Very strange as I have personally been like this for years now and fish in 90+ degree days all summer. Hope your new one works great and issue free.
It's possible what's happening with "in-hull" mount is the transducer is sending out sonar signals it's not getting back and therefore boosts the power.
I appreciate the hard-core science going into this video (especially the hurry-up and hydrate parts) but I'm wondering if this experiment might be flawed.
For "lack of signal" causing a power boost to really show up, the main unit would have to be in Split Frequency and attempting to scan at the furthest depth possible.
The test should probably include, running the transducer in water vs running the transducer in a bucket on the water.
My assumption is doing this test in a 12" pail, compared to a 350' deep lake is where the difference of power/heat would really show up.
NB. The test would ideally be run with a thermometer inside the transducer, providing live on the fly results.
BTW: I would like to thank you so much for these amazing videos. I'm so new to this Garmin Striker that I haven't even used it for fishing yet but your videos have really helped me understand so many aspects of this fishfinder.
Noce work. It'll be interesting to know how much power in watts is dissipated in the transducer in normal mode.
Not sure, but I believe it is 300 Max
Glad to know. I was planning on purchasing one
Awesome glad it was helpful 😊
man garmin needs to sponsor you my friend as you are the master of this fish finder!
one day maybe :) I enjoy sharing with everyone. Hope you have been catching a few
@@1Cast1Fish have not cast a line in the water since last fall kinda sucks! just have not been able to get out hopefully this fall I will get out and catch a few starting to get to damn hot to be out fishing in the day time lol!
Hope we get a few cooler days and you get out sooner
@@1Cast1Fish ya me too!
@@1Cast1Fish I agree, your info on Garmin units is best around.
Doing a bit of catch up on your videos today.
Awesome, I see the fishing has been good for you lately :)
First of all, your videos have been immensely helpful. Thank you. Question from earlier videos. When you are using the Striker 4 in simulation mode, "in the comfort of your home" how is the Striker powered? Is there a 115 volt converter or do you just bring in the unit and your battery from your kayak?
The Nocqua 10ah battery kit is extremely versatile and easy to move and use where ever.
i want to mount mine like this but the fishing store told me i cant as it will block two of the 3 radio waves or something and be hopless as a fish finder i have a hobie pa14
Not sure on the blocking part, but I use my Striker 4 CV without issue on my Jackson Coosa HD.
Was talked out of buying the Garmin foam bad for my striker 4 cv today. I regret buying the arm and really want to in hull mount. Do you know if this would work on a Tarpon 120?
It is cheap and easy to give it a try. It would have to go into the hatch area since the transducer must have no air gaps, plus the transducer must be below the waterline as well. Most issues people have are on the installation side, but sometimes other problems prevent it from working 100%. I hate the arms as well, so I would give this a try.
Question. I have the Striker 4 Portable and noticed right when it hits depth of 26.2 and below. It keeps freaking out saying there are fish everywhere. I know its a bad reading. Any suggestions?
Could be many things...thermocline, weeds, mud or debris in water. Are you using the fish icons?
Hey there 1Cast, I was wondering if you ever had any problems with trolling motor noise messing with your in hull transducer mounting. I installed mine a while back just the same way with duct seal in hull under my seat. I use a PWM set up. I get a perfect reading while trolling at say 25%. The image noise gets real choppy anywhere above 40-50%. Do you know of a fix for this?
Go to your settings. I believe under noise, and there's an option to not pick up surface movement.
@Brady Roberts yah I have that on. It's not that. It's literally causing everything on the graph to get choppy or jagged.
SO I know from past experience with Minkota, which uses a PWM type optimizer, that when a transducer was mounted on the motor barrel, I would get major interference when using the motor, and it would clear up once my foot was off the pedal. One thing that may help is items called ferrite beads...add a few on the fishfinder power and transducer cable...and even the trolling motor power cable. Also ensure there is no water interference when the motor is up in speed...it may be creating a turbulence zone at the transducer.
@1Cast 1Fish Thank you for the info. I will definitely try those.
@@1Cast1Fish Good suggestions from my knowledge as an electrical engineer and HAM radio operator. PWM creates a lot of RF interference.
Are you using plumbers putty in the yak?
Its Duct Seal, for sealing duct work
Wassup 1Cast and Friends
What’s up buddy glad to see you
Why is my striker 4 glitchy??
Whats it doing?
It just doesn't read across the screen smoothly same with the side live sonar it's just really glitchy
What is the transducer mounted on, and how is it mounted? Is the issue at speed or just sitting still?
@@1Cast1Fish not OP, but I have noticed a 'glitchy' nature in shallow water or when still.
@@bermchasin Most fishfinders do not do very well in very shallow water...say less than 5ft. Has to do with t\how fast the sonar returns ping back and separation. This is why in shallow water the screen looks very cluttered and noisy normally. Sure it can be other things as well, but this is a major reason for this type of shallow water image. Also when sitting still any wave action will be shown in the image...the transducer will be moving up and down, and even side to side...so this will make the bottom jagged sometimes and odd looking.