Clutch Pack Wear on 722.3 & 722.4
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- Опубліковано 29 гру 2017
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Hi there, i have a '87 300e that has had the clutch packs replaced. Starting out in the morning or after the car has sat in the cold, the car wont shift 2-3 unless it has sat and warmed up for a while or is driven around. If trying to drive regularly, the RPMs will redline with no shift. It shifts flawlessly after this initial upshift, however it seems as though it may be overheating. I had a shop say that it is likely the valve body paper gasket. There is a big hill by my house, and when i drive down on this initial drive, it seems to help with priming the transmission with fluid and make this shift happen faster. Thanks for all the great content!
do you have a california version with the upshift delay valve? if not, they rebuilder didnt change the clutch pack seals.
welcome to the 722.4 "lottery" :P
Got a 722.358 transmission that is getting worn in the reverse action. I suspect worn B3 clutch plates.
It it feasible to take apart the transmission and replace the clutch plates + piston seals - or would it be cheaper to find a used low-mileage transmission, and replace the whole ting? This will need to be done by a a garage, as I don't have the facilities to do it myself.
Happy new year to you all at the Channel.
david power thank you so much and the same to you!
Will all of this work culminate in a written manual? I feel like many people would be interested in that. I know I would be
love the channel! just stumbled across it. no bs. awesome!.
my 1991 300d om603.912 w124 722.4 has a similar problem. well, it really has a mind of its own. and i haven't pulled it apart yet. (i was lucky enough to do my apprenticeship on these cars)
it has the issue of being very sluggish on take off, then bang! (literally) will decide to change to 1st for take off, after i have stabbed the throttle a few times.. worse when cold, or very hot. sometimes it cant make its mind up. it will go from 1st to second, then back to first abruptly if a decent amount of throttle is applied. (modulator adjustment, vac valve on the injection pump adjustment, bowden cable adjustment seem to have no effect. (i spose a 300d shouldn't break traction in the wet on the 2-3 change...) well, sometimes it will be perfect. but generally only once a day it will act normal. kickdown is also a game of bingo. multiple (aggressive)stabs of the throttle to get it to kick down. mainly when hot. to me it seems there is a oil pressure/governor related issue. i have had no time to dig in as its my daily driver. it will change down gears very well when coasting to a stop. and when you pull away, with the throttle mashed, and kickdown switch on, sometimes it will rev out properly, in 1st the way its ment to, but 40% of the time it will either get stuck in 1st, for a good few seconds, at the governed max revs of 5200rpm, (all while rolling coal to the person behind me... to my enjoyment) and then violently release 1st to 2nd, or it will change up to 2nd at 2-3k... even with the kickdown on.
then there is the random "skipping gears" fun... painfully slow 2nd gear take off then straight into 4th. this is quite common. it will be a 2 speed box most of the time when hot.. unless i use the gear stick to manually shift it.. and to avoid its "skipping gears" i will force it to take off in 1, by full throttle, shift to 3, (because once its in 1st, its stuck in it till really high revs.. ) then as soon as its changed to second, put it back into 2 to stop it from going straight to 4th...
so yes, my 722.4 has seen better days, but no noises, and the oil is quite clean.. i will pull the pan off soon and see whats what... anyway. love the channel. Dave.
ps, once it decided to "trans brake" on me... when i was stopped. it had grabbed 2 gears at once. (almost feels like it has 2 at once when taking off sometimes from how slow it is.. ) full stalled up, no drive forward. then i released with a bang, and off we went. and it seems the worse it shits the bed, immediately after, it behaves perfect for the next 3-4 "gear change, up down sequences" then slowly degrades to the next "lotto" gear change decisions...
yes being an enthusiast, this kind of abuse might seem "harsh" and "why haven't i fixed it" well, i am a mechanic with almost 20 years experience. and my "bum sensor" hasn't let of any major warnings yet.. its a "i should fix it" but also, she'll be rite" situation... spose, till its not then....
cheers.
Hello, +Dave A and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible.
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Dave, please email me at mbownersforlife@bellsouth.net...it took me a few days to get back to this comment. SO based on my understanding the car is not starting off in first, and is skipping gears? it seems to me that you have an underhood vacuum issue. on your radiator core support is a vacuum diagram. that is the first think i would check...it sounds to me like your transmisison is getting driect vacuum. on the firewall is a pressure converter, near the battery, that helps modulate the shift points. is it hooked up
Same happening to me. 1992 w201 2.6 with 722.4 in 4th doing 55 at 3200rpm
I have a 1984 300sd i have had rough downshifts at lets say a red light coming to a stop. I also have a rough 2-3 or 3-4 up shifts. I recently had a new lime green trans modulator replacement of the old green one. The shifting was the same. They vaccum tested and it had no vaccum. So they found my AC modulators were leaking vaccum they plugged that off and bam the had shift down was gone but the upshift was still rough. I drive it to work and the down shift came back it make he whole car thump. Do i need to make a trans modulator adjustment or do i need a transmission rebuilt? I do have the egr line open to the atmosphere meaning can i lose vaccum thru there to cause the shifting like this? The shifting up has never really got better since the modulator upgrade. The down shift disappeared once in a while it is nonexistent I don’t feel a downshift which is good. 2-1 or 3-2. What would be your opinion?? Also is it bad to take off at a green light and just floor the car. The rpms hit 3500 before dropping i do drive aggressively fast i mean i take off fast iam I damaging the engine doing this? They say don’t make the rpms go up on deisels...
What if my transmission change normal when cold but hose to first gear when hot
Got an issue with 722.3 no drive at all?
We have watched your videos and enjoy them and we think you are the best mercedes tech over scotty and ken, scotty and ken are helpful. We would like to know your background and how you learned it and info on your dads mercedes experience. I am looking for a 722 .1 atsg service guide, all 722.1 to 6 atsg paper manuals would be nice cant get anymore, dont like cd and also have you ever junked the weak mercedes auto trans and put a chevy trans, $800 for adapter plate kit. the chevy trans is child's play to rebuild and parts are cheap. The other question is veggie oil use, the mercedes engine is 2nd best next to the detroit diesel 2 stokes that have NO injection pump. The average high mileage driver spends $500k in a lifetime on fuel and veg is an alternative, I know diesel is better but its 500k. Is it easier to pull the engine and trans together and fix any engine leaks while its out. Also finally who does your trans work and where do you buy your trans parts. To be honest The engine is they only thing thats good on the 81 to 85 mercedes the rest of the car is a too high maintenance, all other mercedes models I agree with scotties comment of them being POS, its a shame that america never made a good diesel for auto use and the shop manuals to support these cars is weak at best.
To answer your question:
no I would never install a heavy, sloppy inefficent chevy transmission.
There is a manual for the 722,1, here's a link to 1 for sale:
www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-4-Speed-Manual-Automatic-Clutches-Transmissions-Service-Shop-Manual/132643634202?hash=item1ee22d3c1a:g:tocAAOSwvBdbDvur
last, about biofuel...if you;re going to use veggie oil, refine it into biodiesel. You will never go 500k on veggie.
fix your car the right way, don;t abuse it by modifying it and don;t try to run on alternative fuels that are known to cause issues. A really good Mercedes owner understands that the easiest way to keep a mercedes running right is by fixing it, not by modifying it.
I have a w210 e230 1996
with a 722.440 transmission.
and when i accelerate slowly it shifts from 3-4 a little harsh
and when i accelerate fast (full throttle) it has a tendency to slip/flare but the sliping/flaring stops completely when it sets in gear.
I've changed oil, filter and adjusted bowden cable which helped a little but didn't solve anything :(
any tips on what it could be would be greatly appreciated
there is a really good additive called trans-x that works miracles for these gearboxes. I would give it a shot. However, it seems like you might hjave one or two worn friction discs in the 4th gear clutch disc housing
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753
its only done 200 000km so i think its a little weird that they are worn already, but if thats the case, is that something i can fix myself or do i have to send it to a workshop for a rebuild?
and can you send a link to the trans-x?
I have a 722.3 that will not shift on normal throttle. But at very very low speeds it will shift too early
Hi
I have a 1991 Mercedes 230E
And the problem is the gear selector doesn't select any gear.
I took it to the shop and changed the valve body and solved my problem
After a week same issue happened!
Then changed the valve body (again) and it worked for a minute then it went back
Can you please help me
Hello, @nawarzr597 and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible.
By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre.
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