For all those who criticized the video, it seems like you all know what you are talking about. SO, WHY DID YOU WATCH THE VIDEO AND WAISTED YOUR TIME WHEN YOU COULD BE DOING SOMETHING ELSE OF MORE VALUE??? I think it was a good video guide, THANK YOU MUCH, to get the work done! I've never replaced these parts before in my CR-V and with this clip, I don't have to watch any other, this is enough for me and will not hesitate to get those parts replaced next weekend. This guy said it clearly, he's not a mechanic nor an expert, regardless of some details that he was criticized for from those experts who did, I don't know why they watched the video, the tutorial was very clear and detailed in order to get the job done. REMEMBER, THIS IS A FREE TUTORIAL, if anyone does not like it, don't watch it nor waist your time. Pay a mechanic to do the work and pay at least $250 including alignment... Once again, thanks buddy for the time you took to make and post this video. very nice!!!
I just watch videos that come into my feed. There's many false statements in this video. You do not need to go to the dealer to repair it to "mint" condition. A outer and inner tie rod kit correctly installed in a driveway. Is the exactly same "mint" service the dealer would provide.
Should use a new outer tie rod with a grease zerk fitting, just a little more $ will make it last longer. And use the bigger lock nut, which wont move as likely when you hit bumps in the road. Count the number of times you rotated off the old outer tie rod and rotate in the new tie rod the same number of turns.
These CRVS are notorious for wearing out the sway bar mounts and the sway bar end links making a terrible knocking sound. I'm also about to change the Inner and outer tie rod ends to deal with the vague steering mines has at the moment . I've also had issues with the front disks warping causing brake shudder apparently fairly common on Honda's of that era. Quality after market disks solved the problem .
I can't believe people are criticizing this video. He said cutting the boot was not ideal but cut it, zip tie it, as long as it's not exposed to the environment it's fine. What a great video! Nice job on the explanations and everything, I knew how to do it but don't have my tools with me and needed to know nut sizes, which you specified. I ended up watching the whole thing lol. Nice job!
Casey Culver Well said, I don't know why experts, like those criticizing, waist their time watching and writing empty comments when they know what to do and what they are talking about... Thank you, this was a nice video tutorial!
Thank you Whiskey Foxtrot (fox) Great video. Loved the way you used a tripod and zoomed in and out to give us a good shot. Many amateurs try holding the camera with the other hand. Tripods are like, $20. Thank you again. You're a professional too me.
The hose connected to the inner tie rod boot connects to the boot on the other side and allows air to shift from one boot to the other as the rack moves while steering.
I appreciate the video. I'm an amateur too. Its nice to be able to see the parts and many of the steps involved. Some of the shortcuts are a bit scary though for such an essential steering component. I skipped ahead a bit, but didn't see any thread locker or bending or crimping of the tabs on the lock washer to keep the inner tie rod seated on the rack. You showed how the lock feature locks to the rack, but what keeps it locked to the inner tie rod end? If you were going to use a zip tie anyway, why not remove the inner band and put the zip tie there when you were done, instead of compromising the whole boot? To separate the ball joint on the outer tie rod, you could have used your jack to lift the lower control arm a little bit to put a couple hundred lbs of weight on it, then you don't have to mess around with the pry bar and bump the brake lines and stuff. The fact that the ball joint was already loose in the knuckle is scary. Looks like the last guy didn't torque down the castle nut before securing it with the cotter pin. You can buy a cheap torque wrench for less than $20, rather than just reefing on things. 5/8" is 15.875mm. That is probably a 16mm castle nut.
is it a good idea to lube the new threading with some grease before replacing the bolts? Other then that great video I need to start on my own outer & inner rods
to keep the spindle on the outer tie rod from spinning, you could also use a 19mm spanner, apply it to the hex on the tie rod, and then crank it sideways so the spindle is at an angle to knuckle. it binds the joint up and keeps the spindle from spinning. a pipe wrench can be used to. and, if you do get it right on the thread count/measurement/whatever on the outer rod reinstall, there's is a great chance you won't need to align it. i've done it many times
Matthew, how do you measure, not having to re-align? Is it by the smoothness of the ride, shaking or uneven wear of the tire (which is an expensive test). Thank you in advance.
Most auto parts places/manufacturers put a dust cap over the outer tie rod end boot - i believe you might have left that on when you install that part. Just and FYI for anyone who may use this video as a guide. Make sure you pull off the cover.
Hey Whiskey, nice video. Very good Attention to detail. I enjoy your sense of humor. I tried to take the lower ball joint off myself a couple of years back but could not get the ball joint off. I was afraid to use a hammer. I tried to use the ball joint separator but it kept slipping off. I gave up and went to Pep Boys. This time I have to replace the outer tire rods. I am tempted to give it another shot. Could you use a vise grip instead of the pry bar. Thx Dr Rob
you left the dust cap on the ball joint lol there wasn't enough thread and wasn't moving because you didn't take the cap off. its just there for shipping.
GuntherSnaps Thank you for pointing that out. You see, for those who criticized this guy for so many different things he did, this is to confirm what he said, ..."I'm not a mechanic..." so, he tried what made sense to him and perhaps missed a thing or two, but IN GENERAL, he provided with very much lots of useful process information in order to get those parts replaced. Nice video tutorial, I bet many of the people who watched this video had no idea what to expect when it comes to replace these parts...? and still criticize what was wrong that he did. just take the good and disregard the bad that you think is bad or incorrect... Hey GuntherSnop, this comment is not for you but those who liberally criticize this guy who is trying to help us learn something we didn't know...
Great vid thanks. Just thought I'd mention can mark and count threads/turns. Even though alignment is essential at some point soon enough. Immediately preferably But to have alignment close enough to same specs as it was before replacing... Count turns/threads exposed left on rack end. Yeah sure could be toe out or in a whole turn if guessing or if didn't mark accurately... Which could obviously be whatever the pitch of the thread is. 1.25/1.5mm something along those lines. Whatever the pitch is yeah??? Best practice. Surely is to immediately get an alignment anyways. Rule #1 when pulling apart and replacing shocks. Springs. Altering ride height. Not for sway links. But yeah any other major component. Even a bottom ball joint. For sure. As if it was aligned with wear/play taken into consideration. The resting stance of the vehicle. Will result in a different axle position. Even a wheel bearing that's worn with play can obviously result in poor alignment. When replaced. As when the vehicle is in a stationary parked position on an alignment machine. That's calibrated correctly. The true natural resting position of the axle will not be where it's factory specs are anymore. So replacing any or all of the above components surely does result in alignment settings being altered. So don't skimp out on re-alignment folks. Unless you want tracking, wandering faster tyre wear. And possibly poor control of your vehicle on roads that are not quality. Or at highway speeds especially.
another solution to removing the nut from the outer TRE when the stud spins is to place a jack under the knuckle and lift. the pressure from the knuckle keeps the stud from spinning. this is handy if you simply need to remove the TRE without damaging the boot....eg, if you need to replace the half shaft
How long do you think i can ride without doing the alignment? one of my tie rod ends went out, i want to replace it since it's bothering me with the noise it makes when driving on low speed, but i want to do complete overhaul of front suspension next month then do the alignment, instead of doing it after tie rods and then another one after suspension.
Is there any way to replace just the dust boot on the inner tie rod without needing to do an alignment after? Mine has broken (not cracked) and I really would like to replace it without having to get an alignment done afterwards.
what is the torque specs for changing 1997 Crv Inner Tie Rod ? My husband stripped the 1st one , don't want to ruin the 2nd, can't seem to find this info anywhere. Thank you
what size tie rod tool did you use to take off the inner tie rod was it a 1 3/16, it is not work on my tie rod so back down to the store to get a smaller one. Thanx
you don't need a ball joint separator or anything for this. Just whack the knuckle with a hammer with some pressure on the tie rod (in this case push it up) and it will just come out after a couple whacks.
Ps I am not a mechanic but love to tinker around. I am a Dr by trade but treating patients is sort of the same as a mechanic. We both just use different tools. Dt Rob.
He did mention that it is a first generation. I am going to have to watch another video before I do this. There has to be a correct process for the rubber boot, maybe replacing it or whatever, but a correct process.
@@LarryRichelli Yes he did say it was a 98. The correct procedure for the boot would be to remove the outer retainer however you can, cut the inner band because it is spot welded on, and remove the hose. The hose has a spring clip like retainer but I was able to pull mine right off. Then pull the boot off. If you're replacing the boot, it should come with new retaining rings, likely zip ties if not an oem part. If reusing the boot, zip ties should also work. I don't think the stainless band is necessary like the ones on the CV boots.
@@seanross1589 The hose just connects the boots so air inside transfers from one to the other when you steer. Otherwise it probably would build up too much pressure in the boot. Just reconnect the hose to the fitting on new boot. If you leave it off, you risk getting dirt inside and and wearing out your rack
In many ways. Good job. I did see a few things I would have done differently. But as you mentioned in the beginning, I'm not a mechanic. I'm not a mechanic either. I watched till 14:37, I see you were not using a light of some kind. Making it really hard to see in the dark. Good job though. I give you a thumbs up.
you should probly mention that to not use a pry bar if your going to reuse the tierod, because i actually did the same thing and ripped my boot, and which is the reason why iam chaning the tie rod in the first place now
Great video ..thanks...can kind of understand the shortcut on cutting the bellows boot. At least you did your best to re-secure it. Much more confident than the hack job video of the youtuber who ripped off boot, tossed it and just wrapped final new install in electrical tape ball mess...lol
You care if a nut head size changes? What difference does it make? You never have every tool you need EVER, you always need to go get something. And this pays my bills, i know :)
Lol so funny how commenters are like "what a hack job" and "you suck". Honestly if you have the grit to get down on the ground and fix these things as long as they are fixed its fixed. the inner tie boot looked fine to me, they do worse off jobs at my local mechanics shop than this guy did so haters can fuck off. Thanks for the video.
I had to beat the absolute devil out of mine with a 4 pound metal hammer and use a pickle fork to finally free it. The parts store removal tool was useless garbage and cost me loads of time and stress.
For all those who criticized the video, it seems like you all know what you are talking about. SO, WHY DID YOU WATCH THE VIDEO AND WAISTED YOUR TIME WHEN YOU COULD BE DOING SOMETHING ELSE OF MORE VALUE???
I think it was a good video guide, THANK YOU MUCH, to get the work done! I've never replaced these parts before in my CR-V and with this clip, I don't have to watch any other, this is enough for me and will not hesitate to get those parts replaced next weekend.
This guy said it clearly, he's not a mechanic nor an expert, regardless of some details that he was criticized for from those experts who did, I don't know why they watched the video, the tutorial was very clear and detailed in order to get the job done.
REMEMBER, THIS IS A FREE TUTORIAL, if anyone does not like it, don't watch it nor waist your time. Pay a mechanic to do the work and pay at least $250 including alignment...
Once again, thanks buddy for the time you took to make and post this video. very nice!!!
I just watch videos that come into my feed. There's many false statements in this video. You do not need to go to the dealer to repair it to "mint" condition. A outer and inner tie rod kit correctly installed in a driveway. Is the exactly same "mint" service the dealer would provide.
Should use a new outer tie rod with a grease zerk fitting, just a little more $ will make it last longer. And use the bigger lock nut, which wont move as likely when you hit bumps in the road. Count the number of times you rotated off the old outer tie rod and rotate in the new tie rod the same number of turns.
Geez, what a nice guy. Thanks for a FULL step by step video, cheers.
Great video **applause** very detailed...very thorough. Thanks for showing us DIYer's how to save money. This is a minimum $600 job at a garage.
I believe that it's more than $600
These CRVS are notorious for wearing out the sway bar mounts and the sway bar end links making a terrible knocking sound. I'm also about to change the Inner and outer tie rod ends to deal with the vague steering mines has at the moment . I've also had issues with the front disks warping causing brake shudder apparently fairly common on Honda's of that era. Quality after market disks solved the problem .
I can't believe people are criticizing this video. He said cutting the boot was not ideal but cut it, zip tie it, as long as it's not exposed to the environment it's fine.
What a great video! Nice job on the explanations and everything, I knew how to do it but don't have my tools with me and needed to know nut sizes, which you specified. I ended up watching the whole thing lol. Nice job!
Casey Culver
Casey Culver
Well said, I don't know why experts, like those criticizing, waist their time watching and writing empty comments when they know what to do and what they are talking about...
Thank you, this was a nice video tutorial!
Thank you Whiskey Foxtrot (fox) Great video. Loved the way you used a tripod and zoomed in and out to give us a good shot. Many amateurs try holding the camera with the other hand. Tripods are like, $20. Thank you again. You're a professional too me.
The hose connected to the inner tie rod boot connects to the boot on the other side and allows air to shift from one boot to the other as the rack moves while steering.
Thanks for the nice video. Thanks for the extra trouble you went through to make the steps clearer and concise.
VERY nice video!! Very well explained in common sense English detail!! Great shots! Saved this as I know this job is coming!
I appreciate the video. I'm an amateur too. Its nice to be able to see the parts and many of the steps involved. Some of the shortcuts are a bit scary though for such an essential steering component.
I skipped ahead a bit, but didn't see any thread locker or bending or crimping of the tabs on the lock washer to keep the inner tie rod seated on the rack. You showed how the lock feature locks to the rack, but what keeps it locked to the inner tie rod end?
If you were going to use a zip tie anyway, why not remove the inner band and put the zip tie there when you were done, instead of compromising the whole boot?
To separate the ball joint on the outer tie rod, you could have used your jack to lift the lower control arm a little bit to put a couple hundred lbs of weight on it, then you don't have to mess around with the pry bar and bump the brake lines and stuff.
The fact that the ball joint was already loose in the knuckle is scary. Looks like the last guy didn't torque down the castle nut before securing it with the cotter pin.
You can buy a cheap torque wrench for less than $20, rather than just reefing on things.
5/8" is 15.875mm. That is probably a 16mm castle nut.
is it a good idea to lube the new threading with some grease before replacing the bolts? Other then that great video I need to start on my own outer & inner rods
to keep the spindle on the outer tie rod from spinning, you could also use a 19mm spanner, apply it to the hex on the tie rod, and then crank it sideways so the spindle is at an angle to knuckle. it binds the joint up and keeps the spindle from spinning. a pipe wrench can be used to. and, if you do get it right on the thread count/measurement/whatever on the outer rod reinstall, there's is a great chance you won't need to align it. i've done it many times
oh, and the hose to the inner rod boot is a breather
Matthew, how do you measure, not having to re-align? Is it by the smoothness of the ride, shaking or uneven wear of the tire (which is an expensive test). Thank you in advance.
Most auto parts places/manufacturers put a dust cap over the outer tie rod end boot - i believe you might have left that on when you install that part. Just and FYI for anyone who may use this video as a guide. Make sure you pull off the cover.
Hey Whiskey, nice video. Very good Attention to detail. I enjoy your sense of humor. I tried to take the lower ball joint off myself a couple of years back but could not get the ball joint off. I was afraid to use a hammer. I tried to use the ball joint separator but it kept slipping off. I gave up and went to Pep Boys. This time I have to replace the outer tire rods. I am tempted to give it another shot. Could you use a vise grip instead of the pry bar. Thx Dr Rob
you left the dust cap on the ball joint lol
there wasn't enough thread and wasn't moving because you didn't take the cap off. its just there for shipping.
GuntherSnaps
Thank you for pointing that out.
You see, for those who criticized this guy for so many different things he did, this is to confirm what he said, ..."I'm not a mechanic..." so, he tried what made sense to him and perhaps missed a thing or two, but IN GENERAL, he provided with very much lots of useful process information in order to get those parts replaced. Nice video tutorial, I bet many of the people who watched this video had no idea what to expect when it comes to replace these parts...? and still criticize what was wrong that he did. just take the good and disregard the bad that you think is bad or incorrect... Hey GuntherSnop, this comment is not for you but those who liberally criticize this guy who is trying to help us learn something we didn't know...
Great vid thanks. Just thought I'd mention can mark and count threads/turns. Even though alignment is essential at some point soon enough. Immediately preferably
But to have alignment close enough to same specs as it was before replacing...
Count turns/threads exposed left on rack end.
Yeah sure could be toe out or in a whole turn if guessing or if didn't mark accurately...
Which could obviously be whatever the pitch of the thread is. 1.25/1.5mm something along those lines. Whatever the pitch is yeah???
Best practice. Surely is to immediately get an alignment anyways. Rule #1 when pulling apart and replacing shocks. Springs. Altering ride height.
Not for sway links. But yeah any other major component. Even a bottom ball joint. For sure. As if it was aligned with wear/play taken into consideration.
The resting stance of the vehicle. Will result in a different axle position.
Even a wheel bearing that's worn with play can obviously result in poor alignment. When replaced.
As when the vehicle is in a stationary parked position on an alignment machine. That's calibrated correctly.
The true natural resting position of the axle will not be where it's factory specs are anymore.
So replacing any or all of the above components surely does result in alignment settings being altered.
So don't skimp out on re-alignment folks.
Unless you want tracking, wandering faster tyre wear. And possibly poor control of your vehicle on roads that are not quality. Or at highway speeds especially.
Just perfect video description! Thumbs Up!
Do you need an axle boot my friend?
Awesome video man! Thank you!!
another solution to removing the nut from the outer TRE when the stud spins is to place a jack under the knuckle and lift. the pressure from the knuckle keeps the stud from spinning. this is handy if you simply need to remove the TRE without damaging the boot....eg, if you need to replace the half shaft
Thanks for the suggestion because mines is just spending
What year is this CRV because this loaner tool doesn't work on my 2010 , the tie rod is too big to fit into the tube.
thanks a lot for this video. it helped me a lot. Please do not hesitate to post more videos. They are really helpful. Be blessed. Million thanks
How long do you think i can ride without doing the alignment? one of my tie rod ends went out, i want to replace it since it's bothering me with the noise it makes when driving on low speed, but i want to do complete overhaul of front suspension next month then do the alignment, instead of doing it after tie rods and then another one after suspension.
Is there any way to replace just the dust boot on the inner tie rod without needing to do an alignment after? Mine has broken (not cracked) and I really would like to replace it without having to get an alignment done afterwards.
"No glove, No love" 🤣👏
what is the torque specs for changing 1997 Crv Inner Tie Rod ? My husband stripped the 1st one , don't want to ruin the 2nd, can't seem to find this info anywhere. Thank you
what size tie rod tool did you use to take off the inner tie rod was it a 1 3/16, it is not work on my tie rod so back down to the store to get a smaller one. Thanx
you don't need a ball joint separator or anything for this. Just whack the knuckle with a hammer with some pressure on the tie rod (in this case push it up) and it will just come out after a couple whacks.
Ps I am not a mechanic but love to tinker around. I am a Dr by trade but treating patients is sort of the same as a mechanic. We both just use different tools. Dt Rob.
Really not the same but okay
Torque spec on castle nut, and you can ack the A Arm up to meet the new tie rod so you dont have to force it to proper angle
33ft lbs which is on my 97 crv
Thanks brother this saved me money I was able to get it done in less than 35min
If you don't want to use the tool I used a big old adjustable wrench on Mr crv. There's plenty of room and it works just fine
Don't you just love it when they never tell you what year the vehicle is.
He did it's a 98
very good video thanks
Thanks for really good tutorial!
Great video! Thank you for sharing it.
Thanks Whiskey. Helped a lot. Gracias amigo
Great video man! I really have to do this to my crv
Good job!
No torque spec on the castle nut?
Thanks for this awesome video man gonna order the parts and do mine now
very good .Thank you soooooo much for this video.
So, how far off was alignment?
Great job. Thanks for the video!
No gloves no love sound good to me 😂😂😂 awesome video
ATG says this is totally useless when working on 2005.
Good luck getting the inner tie rod tool to fit.
Only the ATG Gold 1K Tie Rod Tool will do.
What store do they carry that? Because ive heard lots o problems there
well done thanks for making video
I dont think u ever mentioned the CRV year. I understand the Generation 2 CRV inner tie rods are very different from the other generation CRVs.
He did mention that it is a first generation. I am going to have to watch another video before I do this. There has to be a correct process for the rubber boot, maybe replacing it or whatever, but a correct process.
@@LarryRichelli Yes he did say it was a 98. The correct procedure for the boot would be to remove the outer retainer however you can, cut the inner band because it is spot welded on, and remove the hose. The hose has a spring clip like retainer but I was able to pull mine right off. Then pull the boot off. If you're replacing the boot, it should come with new retaining rings, likely zip ties if not an oem part. If reusing the boot, zip ties should also work. I don't think the stainless band is necessary like the ones on the CV boots.
@@trxgt0578 Thanks. What is the point of the hose? What do you do with it on the new boot?
@@seanross1589 The hose just connects the boots so air inside transfers from one to the other when you steer. Otherwise it probably would build up too much pressure in the boot. Just reconnect the hose to the fitting on new boot. If you leave it off, you risk getting dirt inside and and wearing out your rack
@@trxgt0578 Ok Thanks a lot, I appreciate it!
Great as a general overlook. Definitely some no nos but all over good video
A tip i learned from another video is to instead of counting threads spray paint. Of course that just applies if you're only changing one end.
+John Dozier A silver sharpie works well.
Aloha from Hawaii awesome information
great job. Thanks
In many ways. Good job. I did see a few things I would have done differently.
But as you mentioned in the beginning, I'm not a mechanic.
I'm not a mechanic either.
I watched till 14:37, I see you were not using a light of some kind. Making it really hard to see in the dark.
Good job though. I give you a thumbs up.
LOVE the bloody knuckles!
Very good..thank u
what happened to the valve?
you should probly mention that to not use a pry bar if your going to reuse the tierod, because i actually did the same thing and ripped my boot, and which is the reason why iam chaning the tie rod in the first place now
Thank you i wanted to replace the same parts on my 98 honda crv
Good job.
Great video ..thanks...can kind of understand the shortcut on cutting the bellows boot. At least you did your best to re-secure it. Much more confident than the hack job video of the youtuber who ripped off boot, tossed it and just wrapped final new install in electrical tape ball mess...lol
i changed all the joints on my crv but it still does noise how can I fix that??
Did u change the endlinks?
9:43 or you could use needle nose locking pliers...
Lmao no glove 🧤 no love 😂
Great! Thanks!
I think you have a little more experience than you say...anyway good funny information.
Year of the car????
He said what the year was somewhere in the video. It's a first gen
yeah....but cutting the Boot was a "no no"...and that vehicle didn't appear to be a "beater" at all.
THANKS BRO
11:02 that is not the inner tie rod end.
Why dark
ever hear of torque values? They have them u know, for everything
You care if a nut head size changes? What difference does it make? You never have every tool you need EVER, you always need to go get something. And this pays my bills, i know :)
1998 CRV for those curious
Lol so funny how commenters are like "what a hack job" and "you suck". Honestly if you have the grit to get down on the ground and fix these things as long as they are fixed its fixed. the inner tie boot looked fine to me, they do worse off jobs at my local mechanics shop than this guy did so haters can fuck off. Thanks for the video.
Great video! Ignore the pretentious critics. ;)
Look like you drank Whiskey before doing this job.
I had to beat the absolute devil out of mine with a 4 pound metal hammer and use a pickle fork to finally free it. The parts store removal tool was useless garbage and cost me loads of time and stress.
"put it in the hole" uhh huh huh huh (butthead voice)
Painful to watch.
if he calls the inner tie rod a balljoint 1 more fucking time....
What a hack job. Those old crvs will run forever if you take care of them. What a shame.
Like every car ever made lol
what happened to the valve?
what happened to the valve?