97-01 Honda CRV Ball Joint Replacement | RD1 RD2
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- Опубліковано 12 лип 2024
- In this episode, I repair a faulty broken ball joint on a 1999 Honda CRV.
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I nominate you for Honda CRV Master Mechanic of the decade
🤣🤣 thank you man
If you put the ball joints in the freezer, and then you heat up the steering knuckle with a torch, the new ball joints will literally just slide in. You will be able to push them in with your finger. But once the metal cools down they will be locked into place
These type of DIY mechanic videos are the best! All tools listed and explains every socket before bolt taken off. Good job and thank you.
Thank you
Thanks for all your CVR repair posts. We have a 1999 CRV that I was able to bring back to life with your videos! Keep posting!
Thank you! More to come!
Another awesome tutorial!
If you haven't already, please consider a video showing all the jack and jack stand points on the first gen CRV's. It appears there a few spots a jack can be safely used, but there not in the manual. Cheers
I love you are doing repairs on a first gen. I’ve got a 99 these videos help a ton
Awesome video man, it's cool to see someone do it at home and not in a fancy shop with all new parts and stuff. You are very knowledgeable and good at working on these cars. Thank you for making this
Yessir!
Words to the backyard repair dudes, always change both sides if one has broken, and tighten things to spec. Great video, thank you!
My favorite video of all time!!! Watched it about 10 times before starting (ordering parts and tools).
Lower ball joint: only heated 3 minutes and got 1/2 way in. 2nd attempt, heated more and went all the way in! So I thought...Moog joint, needed 1 mm more to get snap ring on! More hammers, no joy. Got the press from AutoZone and rammed the impact.... still needed 1/2 mm to get snap ring on. Ended up grinding snap ring thinner to make it fit.
Begs the question? OEM had no snap ring, why does Moog have a snap ring? I googled this and many people seem to have the same problem. Do we need to put the snap ring on? I don't see what good it does.
Only did the left front. Lower ball joint, upper control arm, and outer tie rod. Same for the front right? Plus a CV axle. The boot is blown on that.
The rear is even worse. I have the parts, ready to do. Trailing arm bushings which are totally shot, and upper control arms.
It still seems a little bit like I have some clunk in the left front, which is mostly new. The sway bar links seem pretty tight, and old, but I don't see any play. Maybe there is something wrong with the damper?
5:47 your the man for this. I was about to put my wheels back on and lower my car to remove that axle nut. Thanks to your advice I do not need to do that anymore!! Thanks again man!!
awesome, I'm glad you found the video helpful!
Thanks for posting the vid man you helped me a lot your camera shots and your step by step guidance are very good you're a great teacher thanks again!!
Thank you!
Ah, i see that honda hired the VW and BMW engineers to help them design the cabin filter location 🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Doing the balljoints because of some play on the passenger side lower balljoint on my 2001 crv at 128000miles state inspection due in less than 2 months!
Thanks again ❤
Right on
*The Honda Resource* Good Content !!! Keep doing
Good oh wholesome crv news. Thanks man for your in depth walk through got to get the bigger impact and start on my wifes 1999 crv. Also you or anyone else notices a extra O.D gear at 60mph around 2700 rpm?? It lowers the rpm on mine by about 600rpm or am i crazy 35 year experienced mechanic
I'm sure I'll be using this video again in the future. I recently got a 2000 with the "fancy" wheels shiny interior door handles. It's got 247k miles on it and has moderate salt cancer. Most of the repairs I've seen on the CR-V's don't appear to be too bad to dyi. I'm glad I found your channel, it's been super helpful
Awesome
Got a 97 CRV with a bad lower control arm. Thanks for taking the time to help people like me that really need this video.
Glad you found it helpful!
Just find out your channel, hope i can fix mine using your video.. great show..
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Great Vid. I literally had the exact same thing happen. It had the exact same look.with the exact same problems down to the break line. Thats crazy!!!! It was passenger side as well. 2000 crv
I've had several like this. I actually just had to go pick one off the side of the road a couple weeks ago. Looked just like this but driver side
@@hondaresource Do you find that it is the lower ball joint that fails rather than the upper on these first gen CRV's?
@@plumkey197 almost 100% of the time
Great video my friend. Thanks
I hope you find use from it🤟
KA CHOW!!! It’s the lightning!!!!
Love the music brother
Thank you
Thank God for you! My 2001 cr-v Shakes hard core at 60 and above.. we followed your video on the cv axle, ( worked like a charm) but we still are having the shaking . Tok it to a buddies and put it up on a rack and the right tire shook like crazy at 60mph. Rotated the tires same result. Help me please!! I can't figure it out! Thanks for all the fantastic! advice. 4:55
thank you!
Thanks!! Smoth!!
Beautiful
Thanks man
oooooh dat boy leaking! haha gotta love Alabama humidity.
Leaky leaky 🤣
Amazing
Have to replace the L and R tie rod ends on my 1997 Honda CRV. Any suggestions on which brand I should use? Are they pretty much all the same now since most are made in China? Any opinion on Moog parts? Thank you for all the great tutorials on the Honda CRV. Cheers
Nooo 😂 lol 0:24 too funny 😂😅 happened today
Great videos 😊
RIP! hopefully you get it back to 100% soon
Loving these CR-V videos. I bought a '98 5-speed with 120K miles for about $850 and I'm doing all the work on it myself. Next I need to do the valve cover gasket and valve adjustment and then the rear cv axles. Your videos have been invaluable. Thank you!
I do have a question about working on the valve train. The torque specs are pretty low and I can't find any torque wrenches that can accurately read that low of a measurement. Do I need a really expensive torque wrench or can I use one of those relatively cheap AC Delco torque attachments. Or is it possible to just eyeball it? I dont want to damage any parts as I want to get as many miles out of the car as possible. Thanks again!
I use a Craftsman torque wrench, you should be able to find a torque wrench at Home Depot or Lowe's
Kool stuff. CAN YOU DO A VIDEO ON EVAPORATOR CORE REPLACEMENT?????
I can if I get one in for that
Funny I find this. I have a 2001 and last year I was heading home from vacation going 80mph on the highway and all the sudden my upper balljoint ripped out of socket, sheared the bottom balljoint off, and ripped out my brake line. Lost all breaks and was lucky to be alive. Only thing that kept the tire in the well was my tie rod and the friction from the tire to pavement was the only thing that helped stop me
Big yikes 😳
KAPOW LOOKS BETTER THAN KACHOW. KOOL VIDEO. MORE!!!!!!
Hopefully get some more CR-V videos soon
@@hondaresource HEY I WANTED TO ASK A ? I HAVE A 2001 Honda CR-V I want a new engine but is there a newer engine that can fit in them ? ITS AN AUTOMATIC. that would be an idea for a video. What engine would you recommend??
@@richgo5328 The B20 stop production in 2001. I would recommend a JDM B20B high compression
Love your videos, I have a question just changed the outer control arm on my 1999 CR-V did everything counted the thread mark it took pic the whole thing to avoid a wheel alignment cause is expensive but it still has a tendency to go right should I change the inner control as well or Am I missing something thanx in advance
Probably out of alignment just a tad
Hey there! First off love all your content and as a ex dealer tech I've learned so much on top of what I've learned in all my years on the daily grind! I love this video! I've been working on a 99 here at home just chaninging out all the suspension components with fresh ones. I did have a question related to this repair. As far as axles I can't buy new OEM ones which is always usually my route for parts and I've heard alot of RD1 owners have a hard time finding a good aftermarket replacement. Do you have any recommendations. Thanks again!
I just use AutoZone axles 🤷♂️
@hondaresource Hey thanks for the reply! Oh really have they been pretty reliable so far?
@@alanhuerta2240 yessir.
@hondaresource Nice! I really appreciate the time you took to reply! Keep making great content don't stop!
i love your posting. i do have a 1998 honda crv which have leakage on its cv joints. how much do you think can cost to repair them? Or is the repair worth it?
CV axles are fairly cheap and relatively easy to swap. I have a video on axle replacement
Hi dude, love the channel. Can you ask the following please? I have a Mk1 2001 CRV and I have replaced the upper control arms, what torque should the castle nut be tightened too?
Cheers
Rod
I'm not sure of the torque spec. I just tighten it down and get it to where a cotter pin will go through
Cool, thanks I thought that might be the case
1 lição pra quem já teve OPALA KKKKKKKKK
Hi i dont know why after market ball joint fail too soon, i replace the front lower ball joint with super mevothec one on 1999 crv, but it takes only two months and then starts making noise, and i found the genuine honda one on ebay costing 84 and i replace again, i can trust after market ball joint anymore, but just ball joint lower on 1999 crv,
Need some help. The lower control arm for the front drivers side.
The lower rear bushing bolt won't tighten. I'm not sure what to do to fix it
Have you notice any diffences on quality or longitivity of economy and standard brand ball joints of Honda? Which brand gives you the best milage?
Me personally I haven't. But also I don't really keep anything long enough to see that sort of thing. three 5 is definitely my preference.
Your videos have been an amazing help, but I am stuck and need some advice. I'm replacing everything suspension/steering wise short of steering rack and sway-bar. Everything is complete, except that I can't get the inner CV axle to come out of the transmission on the passenger side. I have pried, pulled, and swore for about 3 hours with no luck. I'm at my wits end. Any tips to help it pop out? I'm working on jack stands, and currently have both the rears and driver side wheel touching the ground. I feel like the retainer clip is getting wedged and not compressing properly to be able to come out. I have a slide hammer with CV joint attachment on hand, but the universal attachment can't fit in there because of the tight clearance between the trans and LCA mount. Thank you in advance!
I've put a pry bar in there and kicked it. If that doesn't work, drive a chisel between the axle and the transmission case. I had to do that on some occasions on my racecar.
@The Honda Resource Any suggestions on getting my CV out?
@@jeffhadley9518 ^that was my suggestion
@@hondaresource Thanks for the tips! Ended up jacking the driver side up, rotated the axel by a quarter turn, and the sucker popped out after a good kick on the pry bar. Retainer clip must have been in the one position that was jamming it up when I was first going at it. Sorry for the double comment, couldn't see your original one for some reason. Cheers!
@@jeffhadley9518 glad you got it!
I’ve been having trouble with the cv axle stuck to the hub on my RD1 CR-V any advice or tips on getting that axle out ? Thank You.
I actually have a video somewhere that shows how I deal with that, let me see if I can find it
try this method about the 6:00 mark. You may want to spray with some penetrating oil. ua-cam.com/video/4xE0lfSF_1k/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TheHondaResource
The 99 I have now had this same KAAAACHOW, exactly, maybe a little more harsh. ripped eh abs and brake line, the previous owner let it set for idk howl ong , he said a year but he lied about other shht so who knows.. so they did make an effort to put it all back so they could sell it to me. LOL but it was not nice. it pulls to that side passenger but also it has three different tires on it. lol so I dont know if that is causing it yet. looks like though when I get to it it;s going to be fixable. it drives right now but ya dont wanna let go of that steering wheel buddy! I mean , unless you need to make a right turn real fast. you say I could maybe just abandon ABS? Or should I rebuild that set up and fuse it again. lol this is an 1999 Auto awd ex model. it;s real nice, I dig it, but needs this work done. also it was a Toad, I think part of the wire harness is still in it, I just realized what was up when I was working on the rear tail lights and breaks. the front plug ( receiver for the RV) is cut out somewhere, i still haven't found where they cut it but I did find and bypass teh diods and exrtra harness from the rear lights compartments.
do you know how to determin what key fob went with what model? i tried asking at the honda dealer two days ago and they said they cant tell me, they just have to charge me 250 bucks a pop for fobs and instal the, LOL ft I say. no way I would do that. woudl be cool to have teh fobs though,
I dont remember, i think you have to pull the driver door panel off and compare a number on the module under there.
Oh man, i had a bad experience when my driverside lower balljoint got disconnected or broken, lucky i was on a regular street lower speed, stpped immeditelly, there was no damage except balljoint, half axel got separated with no boot damage at all, but the bad part is towing the car, the triple AAA towing company refuse to do so, and i had to to use the rear wheels to drive car back to a close parking spot by putting a hydrolic jack.with metal wheels under broken balljoint side, and 100 metter away feom the spot, my rear right axel got sepparated after the differential got broken from the car body, (the differential was cracked alteady before, because of bad driveshaft) and i had to push the car to a parking spot, but left it a little far from the curve, till my muscle star hurting me. But the next day i replaced the baljoint, and i removed the rear hweel drive system feom the car (drivshaft, differential, axels except the the axel head that hold the bearing togheter, and now my car run faster and smoother with two wheel.drive than before with four wheel drive. Ofcourse inreplaced the other baljoint before having another bad experience like the obe it broked.
2wd has less drivetrain horsepower loss. You got lucky it didn't get much damage
@@hondaresource i agree, but mine had less power, when it was four wheel drive, and it wase moving hard, and doesent move when i put the gear on drive till i accelerate, (car suppose to start moving slowly when gear on drive, whitought accelerating), that becouse of the bad driveshaft U joint bearing, it was stuck rusted, that what cause the didferential to crack and then break when i put load on it,
That thumb nial tho......Lmao
I can’t get the plug out of lower control arm. Can I drill it out?
My Honda crv is always finishing water en if it's hot it cuts
Hello please do you know how much oil is in manual transmission in RD1 ?
In the transmission?
I have the exact same problem but my axle does not wanna pop out does the car need to be in neutral? Is there a trick I’m missing?
no, are you referring to removing it from the hub? sometimes they can get stuck. Just requires a big hammer. Also you can mushroom the axle to the point that you'll have to replace it.
good videos man!..appreciate ur time..thx u so much!..
Thank you
Is it best to do the upper control arm and lower ball joints at the same
I don't usually see too many uppers fail
You can test the upper joints by rocking steering wheel back and forth and have someone look at them and see if they’re loose/have too much slack.
Ka-chow lmao 🤣
What brand of ball joints are good quality for these Hondas
I prefer hardrace on my personal car. The ones for 99-00 Honda Civic SI are the same as the crv. The regular parts store ball joints work fine though
So to avoid this happening I should just replace the lower ball joints?
They are definitely a preventative maintenance item on these for sure
🇺🇸👍🏼
Thumbnail is like exactly what
Mine looks like
😔 hopefully you get it fixed up
@hondaresource thanks man, I go to rosedale and I'm gonna fix it there
13:40 cuz it's cowldddddd
🥶🧊
Does knocking it in with a hammer damage the ball joint?
I guess it can if you dont use a big enough hammer or you dont heat the spindle/freeze the ball joint. I haven't had to replace any that I have previously installed.
Are both front and rear axle spindle nuts 36mm?
Rear is 32
Thanks! I have unexpected front end issues so I'll tackle the suspension before I go for the valve seals. This is a really fun project, can't wait until I take it on a roadtrip.
I need to change bushing
Honda Accord 2002 has same problem, what can we do to avoid this?
Buy good quality replacement joints
@@hondaresource but Toyota doesn't have the same problem
@@raymitech different designs or oem manufacturers. I can't really speak for Toyota, but most I see fail do so after 200k miles.
🤔🤔🤔🤔, dosent putting the ball joint on the freezer destroy the grease inside it?
Yup, that's normal
@@hondaresource LOL, obviously there is no such as winter, huh?
Haha!! Along with what 👆👆 he said, yeah people that live in Canada have to replace theirs like once a month.
I'm sure the ball joint that came apart was made in a marginal factory in china without any quality controls whatsoever, and use the cheapest and flimsiest materials possible. They only worry about the outside shine and resemblance to the original part. The defective part may have possibly been a counterfeit of a quality brand like Moog, and packaged to look like a genuine Moog product. Such factories have no regard for the customer's safety, since they are sold to middlemen and resold online at places like E^^^ and A*****. All the more reason to avoid certain online sources. I've never had to worry about such low quality parts on Rockauto.com. I have a couple of fake parts - one from each of the two online retailers above - that are heavy paperweights right now. The CRV owner is lucky it didn't come apart going 70 MPH on the Interstate. It's a miracle the lower control arm is still usable. And if the upper ball joint was installed at the same time as the failed one, then the owner could have another catastrophic failure. I have four ball joints and the right CV axle to do on this 97 CRV, so many thanks for taking the time to post this video. I figured getting the old ball joint out would have taken more hammering to remove. I have a Matco kit with a bunch of cups and a big C-clamp that I bought over 20 years ago (bought on EBay used LOL. I've used it 5-6 times and it's the real thing) that will come in handy, along with an air hammer if extra encouragement is needed. I've been a subscriber for several months now.
Heck yeah! I have no idea what ball joint was in it. My buddy bought it at a tow auction. I buy a lot of parts on rock auto
@@hondaresource If you want to see cheap products (pot metal rather than hardened alloys) and questionable quality control, just get on YT and do a search for "Chinese construction fails" or "Chinese towing fails" or anything related. I love it when they go to pull a truck out of the ditch and only the front end with the two tires escapes the ditch, having broken apart from the rest of the vehicle.
Front end components and wheel bearings are safety-sensitive parts that I don't play with when they need replacement. Just because a ball joint is sold with a grease fitting doesn't make it high-quality. I learned this from Autozone and their Duralast Gold replacements that wore out in less than a year on a customer's Silverado. The local store replaced the prematurely worn parts with no questions asked. I really don't care if it has a lifetime warranty - replacing ball joints are time consuming and dirty work. I want to replace them and be done with it and have them last for many years - not months. You get what you pay for most of the time.
Ayo, those ehes in the thumb nail make me feel as if the fucked up ball joint is even worse
Great video on how to remove a ball joint but god damn you're sweating like crazy when showing the tools used for the job section
Humidity is bad here in Alabama
1:36 tools needed
Kachow😂😂
🚙
How can it not happen?
It seems pretty common in the crvs 🤣
@@hondaresource So can't we avoid this?
@@jamespapy1486 sure. Buy a first gen crv and immediately change your ball joints with a new good quality joint.
@@hondaresource okay thanks
Why doesn’t the brake line work anymore
It was torn. Brake line definitely isn't something in willing to gamble with either way.
@@hondaresource yes I saw that it was torn .. and I agree with you .. safety first .. I guess my question is why is it dangerous to leave it like that .. if it’s not leaking .. or what are the danger of you leave it
@@estebanerazo1769 if it's torn, it's compromised. Not something in willing to chance. A new line is $20 or less
You just made a mistake, you should just hand tight the shock fork bolt and then tighten it when the car on the ground on its tire, because there is a bushing there,
you are correct, but I've never had an issue doing it this way either.
@@hondaresource yes I did what you did when I changed the front and rear chokes, tightening the bolts when the car under jackestand and nothing happen, but I heard on UA-cam you need not to tighten any control bushing unless the car on its tire to avoid bushing failer and when changed front axel I corrected the problem.