Drilling/Screwing into gelcoat
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2019
- In this video I go over the simple yet most effective way of drilling holes into your boats gelcoat.
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Thank you for that. I am fitting a cleat over the weekend this was very helpful.
Great work ... learned something new at 62
been sailing a long time and never knew about the countersink step. Excellent video!
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks, Ron.
Thanks Ron from Australia. :)
Excellent 'how to ' video. I knew what could happen to the gelcoat but had forgotten how to prevent it.
Very good explanation & demonstration. Thank you!
great video - thanks
Outstanding work Ron.
Good stuff. Thanks for making
I enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing and I'm learning a lot from them.
Your welcome
Good Job, Ron.. I found you looking to install speakers in my boat. See you soon as we get past the corona.
I've heard some folks say to go in reverse to go through the surface gel coat. Thanks for your service and videos.
Thanks for another great video Ron. I'm going to add several fender quick release clips to both my Fish-N-Ski and Sea Ray Bow Rider. I have to say that drilling/cutting into gel coat on my boats is terrifying... Your instructions should make anyone comfortable with it.
Great, simple video!
excellent video Ron!
Excellent technique.
Great video - thanks. I’m working on fiberglass on an older RV.
You mention snapping off screw heads. My Milwaukee brushless drill has loads of torque, and a very sensitive trigger. Goes really fast with just a slight pull. I also have a Bosch installation driver. The trigger control on that is absolutely perfect. I can start a screw so slowly and carefully. I literally remove and reinsert self tapping screws into wood or sheet metal, and feel like it’s as good as doing it by hand.
Nothing wrong with screwing by hand, I just wanted to share that particular tool. I’ve had a lot of various electric screwdrivers over the years and I’ve never had another that felt this easy to safely use.
Thanks!
THANK YOU!! I needed to see this!
Great video I’ve also used a phillips screw driver to sort of counter sink the gel coat
Fast and to the point!
Great video thank you
Very nice, thank you.
Thank you, nice video
Great video and good information. Thank you. You can also begin the hole by using a pointed countersink -as a centering and chamfering too. But it does require a good countersink--not a large drill bit
Thanks for the comments, I use both methods, but I try to use instructions that work and use only basic hand tools found in most garages.
@@rontanis1024 You were successful very good presentation the starting humor was great.
Thank you!
Very helpful, needed to mount front and rear cleats for bumpers for dock.
Fantastic video Ron. Hopefully this helps with my fiberglass trunk wing which is giving me trouble.
What car, im trying to add some holes on my front bumper for my corvette
What kind of drill bit for material do you use? Thanks a lot for these great do it yourself videos.
Bimini clip is cockeyed to the lines of the boat. Would drive me nuts every time I looked at it (OCD 😊) . Only takes a second to measure.
Exactly what I was looking for, you made it easy to follow. Can you tell me what length the screws you used were? I’m actually adding the same piece to our boat but not sure the size / length of screws to use. They will be added to a 1981 Sea Ray Bow Rider 200
Excellent video. Got one for bigger screws?
do you need to coat the holes after drilling ? so that it wont cause rusting ?
i have a question. I'm wanting to drill a 1/2' piece of plywood onto the raised wood/fibeglass 'platform for the battery on my boat. I plan to use a #8 countersink bit to start the hole with, but wondering what size screw i should use. thank you
Screwing up your boat is the easy part.
Installing equipment and making improvements to your boat takes time and prepporation to make it blend naturally in with the rest of the design of the boat.
Hello Ron. Outstanding video. I have a lot of handy work and repair experience but not with drilling into boats. Can you please help answer a question? Our bow mounted trolling motor has a number of loose screws. Some are gone or stripped out. Been putting off fixing it, because ai am not exactly sure how. Keep tightening the ones I can. The problem being that I believe many of the screws need to be self tapping? There is no access through hatches to put a nut on the back. Do you think if I simply got self tapping screws that are wider than the current stripped out hole...that would be sufficient? Do you have any other suggestions or self tapping screws would be best? Any other tips? Found your video looking for someone who has done this and your video is all I found. Boat has a rough textured coating for traction on the bow/deck...not sure if that is still considered a gel coat? Fiberglass boat. It’s a Haynie flats boat, made in south Texas. Not that you would be familiar? Anyway, thanks in advance for any help you might share! You just seem so knowledgeable that you would have the answers I need. Hope you can help.
I refuse to mount a trolling motor to a ski boat, but I have seen a few in our shop on bass boats that we have done repairs to. It seem to me they had special rubber inserts that would go into the deck & when the machine screw was threaded in to swelled the rubber to hold it in place. I would be afraid of simply using screws for loads that these are exposed to.
Thanks Ron...this isn’t a ski boat. It’s a super high end flats fishing boat. I was concerned about the load as well. I will contact the maker of the boat...and the shop that installed the trolling motor to begin with and ask more advice. Measure endlessly....cut once right?! 🍻
To protect the gelcoat I spend a few dollars for a countersink instead of an oversize bit and do it right. I tap the holes with a with an appropriate size tap and use stainless machine screws instead of sheet metal screws. If you use 3M 5200 you will never, ever get the screws out if you needed to. 3M 4200 will work fine, or even silicone
I agree with using countersinks, but our videos are designed for the average ski boat owner with basic tools found in most tool boxes. Even with a countersink you can still chip the gelcoat so you have to be careful. I only recommend using 3M5200 below the waterline, and yes it is removable if you warm the part up.
Do you a video installing a Sirius satellite marine antenna ?? 300m Turner for Sirius
I’m a little confused. Wouldn’t it be smarter to leave the masking tape on until after counter sinking as I would think at that time it would be easy for gelcoat to chip?
Not in my experience (40+ years) masking will not stop hard gelcoat from chipping, the older the gelcoat the more carefull you need to be.
I have a 1969 MFG Niagara, how would you tighten a screw that keeps coming loose? It is in the rail for the slider for the top.
Great, would it be the same procedure if I do it from inside of a fiberglass boat.
Yes
Bought a 1959 Glastron. Wanted to apply a Bimini top And realized how thin it was and how weak the area was. I screwed in a screw and attaching the top to the other side I was able to pull both sides without any effort. So scared. Should or can I reinforce this area or should I move the Bimini up higher? It would make the top get in the way of the seats in back
Since you have a hole already where you want it I would reinforce the area with some small patches of f-glass o the back side.
If your screwhead is not sinking into your countersink hole, as when installing the Bimini hardware, why do you still countersink for the screw head? The screw head is stopped by the hardware, not settling into the countersink hole?
To avoid future cracking of the gelcoat you don't want the threads of the screw to press against the gelcoat, this is easily achieved by countersinking the hole, which will keep the screw from being in contact with the gelcoat.
You smart guy.
Question. Been you tubing for hours. Trying to remove an old cleat to put the Minnkota trolling motor in its place. It’s obstructing the location. They must’ve put 5200 under the Cleat. It will not come up for nothing. Any ideas. Thank you please. Got the nuts off the bottom.
If it's 5200 holding it down heat the cleat to around 140 deg with an electric heat gun, this will soften the 5200 & it will then release it's grip & not tear out the gelcoat. RonT
That’s a great idea. I will do and keep you posted. And Thank you for the quick reply!!!
How do you keep the 5200 from drying out in the tube after you use it?
You don't it is cured with moisture (humidity) once un-sealed/opened you will be lucky to keep it usable past 2-3 weeks, shorter in high humidity areas. This is why we sell both the full size caulking gun tube & the smaller "tooth-paste" size tube.
I am replacing a fabric snap on my gelcoat. Would I countersink the same size as the diameter of the replacement snap?
replacing a snap with a previously used hole? just use the old hole, if a new hole/location , yes countersink to avoid a crack.
@@rontanis1024 Original screw is loose and won't tighten. Should I drill hole 1.5x larger --> epoxy --> tap new hole with drill --> 4200 on screw then screw in?
@@andrewraczka1032 I would not drill a larger hole, the larger screw head may not fit into the snap. I would remove the screw, fill with epoxy, cure 24 hrs, redrill, add backer to the underside if possible.
@@rontanis1024 Thank you. So I will reuse the original screw and original hole. But I will epoxy the hole and blue tape on opposite side to keep from falling out.
I drilled a hole with a screw into the ceiling of my fiberglass hull interior. I heard a crack. Did that just ruin the boat? Can I repair it somehow? I don't see or feel any visible damage. I'm not worried about cosmetics, I'm just worried the roof will cave in one day
If you have an "inner skin" (interior ceiling) and a "Outer skin" (exterior deck laminates) typically with an air gap or a core for a "sandwich" composite lamination you are fine IF you only penetrate the inner skin. If too long of a screw is used and you penetrated through the deck and now have a screw point coming through the deck you will need to shorten the screw and repair the deck. If all you did was penetrate the ceiling inner skin and when driving the screw in did not notice the ceiling laminate "pull-away" you are fine, if you noticed the ceiling "pull-away" as the screw went in the screw point is hitting something hard and is pulling the ceiling away and will make a cracking noise....use a shorter screw.
@@rontanis1024 thank you, it definitely didn't go through the outer skin. I don't even think it was close. There is no hole on the outside.
Prо
Wtf is 9 64ths ?
common drill bit size
So long-winded I didn't have all day to find out the trick to the cracks had to shut him off
Thank you!