Very informative, right to the point without annoying music intro and extensive blah, blah, blah! I always appreciate videos like this, especially by those with a British accent.
Thanks, Keith. Glad you found it helpful! We try to keep them to the point. And, yes, Mark's British accent apparently does make the info in the videos even more useful if the number of comments we get about it are any indication 😂
Thanks for the question, JDL. We're assuming you are referring to superficial cracks and not structural. If they're structural (beyond just the gelcoat) -- they're DEFINITELY not normal. I consulted a couple folks around the office, and we agree spider cracks are likely not normal for a new boat either. We recommend first contacting the dealer you purchased the boat from. If necessary, reach out to the manufacturer. Good luck!
This video helped me alot, im a young guy in my early 20s and its hard to find knowledgeable people. Thanks to you I was able to restore my 1975 motorhome to a like new finish and your video helped with the cracking thank you for the demonstration and knowledge!
We're so thrilled to hear that, Andrew! Good for you for tackling that job, and we're glad you were able to apply the info we used on a boat to a motor home. Here's to many happy, safe miles (and adventures) ahead!
Thanks for watching, obiwanfisher. You're correct that there are quite a few materials needed for this, but the savings of doing gelcoat repairs yourself can be substantial. Hopefully you never need to do any repairs, but the investment is worthwhile if you do.
I worked with resins, gel coats, micro bubbles (silica) and fiberglass mat in FAA aircraft mechanic school years ago. So I had an idea on how to mix gelcoat and apply. However, it’s been years since I’ve done it. This video was just what I needed to make an almost perfect repair in my transom. (Log bumped it last year and put a bunch of radial cracks as big as my hand.) I followed this video to the letter and got results I’m proud of. Best advice I could give is don’t be afraid to grind those cracks wide. I ground next to one and not directly in it as I was being gun shy. I could see the crack when I look for it, but from a few feet away it’s invisible. I figure if it opens up again next year I’ll just give it a do over. Thanks Mark for making this video and passing on all your professional knowledge!
Thanks so much for your wonderful feedback, Fireship! We're thrilled you found this so helpful, particularly with your skill level. We also appreciate you sharing your advice and experience with those looking to tackle this project. There are a lot of steps, but it's not nearly as difficult or scary as we fear. Here's hoping the repair lasts for years to come.
It’s apparent Mark knows his craft just his prep work alone show he has learned how to handle material and finishes with amazing results.Thanks for the video.
I think 🤔 it was a very good information but I hate when abbreviations are used as if the audience knows what it means… PVA’s 🙃… Will the spider cracks return overtime & what exactly causes them ?
Good point, Juan. PVA is the hardener additive that is used for curing the gelcoat. It is usually a small bottle of clear liquid. You squeeze a few drops into the decanted gelcoat and mix it in just before you apply it. You have to move fast or it will harden before you get it applied. Spider cracks have a number of causes. Most are from flexing and movement of the fiberglass or from impacts, but others can be indicative of a structural issue. If you have a lot of cracking in an area or it is more than superficial, you'll need to fully investigate and fix the underlying cause. Another cause may be gelcoat that was applied too thick. There's unfortunately not a lot you can do to prevent spider cracks. Keeping the surface clean and polished as well as properly addressing any issues when they come up is your best defense.
Is it necessary to thicken the gel coat when the cracks are in a flat horizontal area like a cabin top or a small sailboat hull turned upside down where there is no chance of running?
Great question, Ron. The thickening is mainly used to keep the gelcoat in place on a vertical surface. Have a look at this other gelcoat repair video for additional tips on flat surfaces: ua-cam.com/video/TJHk81_nKRI/v-deo.htmlsi=3dvuWOsrnGRvgH-v If your gelcoat is unwaxed, you will still need to cover the repair with a mylar sheet or similar to get it to cure. If you're interested in our other gelcoat repair videos for additional tips. techniques, and explanations, see our playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html Hope this helps!
Thank you for your great video!!! I'm doing repar on Lotus Elise front end gel coat spder cracks. Would you recommend to follow your procedure or use different techniques as it will be painted anyway.
Are the cracks not likely to reappear? I have to to assume that there are some flexion or torsion forces that caused the cracks in the first place. Is there a material that allows for some flexion in areas such as this?
To answer your question, it's important to differentiate between stress cracks and spider cracks (though the terms are often used interchangeably). Stress cracks are generally deeper, involve more than just the gelcoat, have an underlying cause (structural or impact), and are likely to come back if the underlying cause isn't addressed first. Spider cracks are less likely to come back as they're superficial and often caused by age, UV, weather, or dings.
Thanks for watching, Ray. We did a video on how to spray gelcoat using a Preval sprayer: ua-cam.com/video/HU4cch9QwXI/v-deo.html that might answer your question. While I don't know if it would be the same mix, it's probably similar. Another (better?) option is to contact the gelcoat manufacturer's customer service department. The folks there are usually very helpful and can offer recommendations for that specific brand. Hope this helps, and good luck with your project!
Problem with most gelcoat cracks and impacts it’s not the gelcoat but the fiberglass which is damaged underneath, time will tell if the lines open up again. I grind off all the gelcoat and one layer of fiberglass, apply one layer of fiberglass back on and then re gelcoat it again, no cracks will re appear in the future. Been doing this for decades.
Thanks for sharing your method, Steven. This technique is only for repairing surface cracks/crazing. Cracks down into the fiberglass can be a sign of something more structural, which is outside the scope of this repair. We recommend they be inspected by a professional.
Oooh! Great question, David. I'm not an expert, and Mark has since retired, but from what I can find, fumed silica should not have any appreciable effect on dark gelcoat. If you're not sure, you can always get color-matched gelcoat paste, which has the silica already mixed in. Hope this is helpful, and thanks for watching!
Very clear an concise demonstration and procedural explanation of the process and materials needed. One of the very best videos which is why I always subscribe to BoatUS for all my HOW-TOs!
Excellent Video. I have ordered all my supplies from Jamestown. I just paid $2,900.00 to have a bunch repaired on my 2009 Beneteau. It is time I learned and your video was very informative.
Thanks for watching, moe! We're glad you found it useful. Let us know how your project goes. It's not hard to do this yourself--you just have to follow the steps. You might want to watch some of our other gelcoat repair videos, too, because we discuss slightly different techniques you might find helpful depending on location and depth: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html
I always use putty to fix cracks then spray it take the paint line out and i sand and buff it out but this is alot different then what i do but 400 scratches are hard to take out with a buffer i always go back over it with 800 and the da marks come right out
Thanks for sharing your technique, summertate. There are many ways to achieve good results; this is what has worked best for us. We typically only use filler for deeper holes, such as when equipment has been removed. But if that works for you in this situation and you're happy with the results, keep doing what you're doing!
Thanks, Pierre. Yes, color matching is probably the hardest part if you don't have gelcoat that matches your boat. Thankfully several companies make premixed gelcoat to match most standard boat colors. If necessary, you can also try matching it yourself using white gelcoat and a tinting kit, though that takes a bit more finesse and practice. And some companies can create a custom match if you can bring something to match from. Good luck with your repair.
This was a GREAT tutorial! I have (under a Shipwright) restored two boats. At the same time Gel coat was never really a issue I worked on personally. Now that I am restoring my 3rd and my hopefully last live aboard. I really love the close up. The detail and the detail list. When I do get off to actually posting our renovations I will make sure to credit your video for the help I got.
Aw, shucks! Thanks so much for watching, and we're glad you found this video useful. Be sure to check out our two other gelcoat videos, which include repairing gelcoat on flat and vertical surfaces. You'll find a couple different techniques that you may find useful depending on the application. Wishing you all the best with your restoration. If you take photos during the process, feel free to send them to us at BoatUS Magazine (magazine@boatus.com) to consider for our occasional makeover articles.
Awesome question, Henry. There are a couple ways you can go about this. Easiest way is to purchase pretinted gelcoat to match your specific hull color. Many gelcoat manufacturers offer a very wide range of premixed colors. If your hull color isn't one that's already in stock, most manufacturers can color match for you like when you go to the paint store. The second way to do this is to buy a base gelcoat along with tints and mix it yourself. This is definitely trickier and requires some patience and trial and error. It's easiest if you are just trying to lighten up a color slightly. You decant your gelcoat and add a little tint at a time until you get the right shade. Use a gloved finger to swipe it on near your repair to check for matching. It will likely lighten up a smidge once dried, and will further lighten due to UV exposure over time. Keep in mind that your hull color may have lightened slightly in the sun, so even a premixed color may not match exactly. Chances are, though, that you'll only see the repair if you're up close to it, and it will blend in over time. We are looking at doing a gelcoat tinting video at some point in the future, but everything is on hold right now. Make sure to subscribe to our channel and hit that notification bell to receive updates when we post new videos about every other week.
Thanks for watching, Bev, and we're glad we can be of assistance! Unfortunately, we aren't able to offer any recommendations there in the UK, and our resident Brit, Mark, who was featured in the video, is now retired and enjoying his boat. However, a simple Google search might turn up some options for you. (I did a search for "color-matched waxed gelcoat.") In our experience here in the U.S., the customer service folks at the manufacturers or distributors tend to be super helpful if you have any questions or concerns. Good luck and let us know how your project turns out!
How deep do you need to dremel the crack? I have a crack(black) in the dashboard, and a couple at the base of the windshield. The biggest one is 2 inches long. What is the absolute lowest temperature to do this kind of work in?
Hi Gary. Thanks for the questions. Without seeing it in person, it's hard to say. We recommend watching our other gelcoat repair videos for additional techniques depending on the depth and location of the repair. There are also some additional handy tips and more in-depth discussions of waxed vs unwaxed gelcoat and more. ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html When opening the cracks with a dremel, you only want to go as deep as the gelcoat surface and not into the fiberglass and/or wood below. Regarding temperature, check with the specific gelcoat manufacturer, but general surface and air temps above 60 F are best. 70 F is better. One final note: If the cracks are deeper and affect the fiberglass or wood, you may have a bigger structural issue to deal with and repairing the gelcoat isn't going to fix it. If there's any question, have a professional take a look. Hope this helps and good luck!
@@boatus I filled in some minor cracks with MagicEzy hairline fix, but it only works on very thin hairline cracks. Anything bigger it comes out. I may try to use a pin to clean out the bigger ones and clean with acetone, may spot test filling in the crack without using a dremel first and see if it works.
I don't think you're going to get the results you want that way, but it probably can't hurt to try. You can always redo it later, though it will mean doing it twice.
Color matching can be a little tricky, Alistair. Buy a gelcoat tinting kit online or at your local marine store. It usually comes with a bunch of little tubes of pigment. Unless you are a painter, it could take a lot of trial and error to get the right match. Do your color mixing without catalyst so you have plenty of time to work. When you think you have it, use a gloved finger to swipe it on the area to be repaired to test. Wipe it off. Once you get the color right, add the catalyst and do the repair. An easier option is to purchase precolored gelcoat, kind of like you would purchase paint for your house. Most gelcoat manufacturers can mix standard colors for most makes and models.
Thanks for the question, krussell. Do you mean the buffer pad or the buffer itself? Some buffer pads are generally disposed of after use. However, if you do a search, there are a bunch of videos on how to clean some buffer pads. You just want to be sure you don't introduce any grit or it can leave scratches in your finish.
I see how this repair is excellent however, I do my spider-crack repair using Marine-Tex Epoxy Putty. It is an inexpensive product and I have found the repair to be virtually invisible and far, far easier than this procedure.
great vid. informative! the interior of my center consol head area has unfished fiberglass, kind of rough, can these procedures be used on the rough fiberglass to seal it over and make it smoother???
Thanks for the question, John. What you’re likely seeing is fiberglass mat. This is common, generally due to cost-saving measures. It isn’t finished like the “outside” surfaces that you see, leaving the surface very rough. If you’re merely trying to smooth it, adding a layer of gelcoat isn’t going to give you the finish you’re hoping for. To do that, you’d need to sand and finish the fiberglass work before adding the gelcoat. A lot of work! If there are really rough, raised areas that are catching clothing or even drawing blood, you can try sanding them down a bit. Some boat owners have painted on an epoxy finish and report that it helps, though you may want to test a small hidden area first before you commit to the entire thing. Alternatively, many folks simply add snaps to the corners of flat unfinished areas and then snap on a canvas cover to hide it - probably the quickest, easiest fix.
Thanks for the question, NJLarry! (I was born and grew up in NJ -- and tried to move back for a few years -- but am now a Marylander -- or Merliner as we say over here near Chesapeake Bay.) Nonskid repair is generally similar to fixing smooth gelcoat, though you will need to create the nonskid pattern in your repair for it to blend (and retain the nonskid-ness). You'll either need to create a mold using part of your unaffected nonskid (search "match nonskid deck patterns'), or you can purchase a mold that matches your nonskid from Gibco Flex-Mold (gibcoflexmold.com). The company offers many different common nonskid deck molds, so you should be able to find one that matches pretty well, if not perfectly. The company can also send you a sample pack if you're not sure which is the best match from looking online. I'm guessing they also have videos available on how to use the molds to get the best results. Hope this helps, and good luck with your repair!
Hello Mark - Thanks for your instruction. I'm new to this process. Wondering what you can use in lieu of silica to create the paste? or would you have filled the spider crack with 3M platinum filler? If silica is the best way to go, then great; I just want to make sure I know the options. Thank you for your knowledge and instruction!
Thanks for the question, Amanda. There are likely other acceptable ways to repair spider cracks in boat gelcoat, however, this is the method that Mark prefers. The silica is necessary to thicken the gelcoat enough that it fills the repair and doesn't run out. Depending on the size and location, you might be able to use mylar plastic instead. You can learn more here: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.htmlsi=bpGHmhU0RQEd8v5g
I like to tape much closer to the repair and when I spread with the card it leaves a tape thin layer over the repair. I like the puffing products you used and will be adding to my favorites on Amazon. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. I have a question: my dad has a wooden boat and like on this same exact spot and others around the boat, last summer we repaired cracks with body filler and repainted with marine top gloss paint, but months later, everywhere where we repaired, around he filler it's all cracked again. We basically have to do everything over again. What would you suggest to use this time over? Many were holes under the surface from regular rusted screws that we removed and filled it. We did a great finishing job, but heartbreaking to see the cracks again.
Thanks for your question, MCF. I don't have a definite answer for you, especially since we can't see the boat in person, but you probably need to start by figuring out the cause of the cracks before you can decide the best way to fix them. I came across this really useful PDF from West Systems, which may have the answers you're looking for. I believe epoxy is a better choice than body filler, which is typically a polyester or vinyl resin. A quick search turns up that epoxy actually binds to the wood and creates a much longer-lasting bond. Here's a link to the West document. Hope you find it helpful. If not, let us know, and I can reach out to some of our experts to ask. Mark, who was our resident boat repair expert, has since retired. www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/0617-Wooden-Boat-Manual.pdf
Could you please explain the causes of hairline cracks? Are they common? Should I be concerned about the integrity of my boat? Is a single discrete crack usually a cosmetic issue and not a sign of structural issue? Thanks so much in advance. {Edit: i just noticed a previous response to a comment that answered most of my questions. Perhaps it would be best to add this info in the description}
Why would you wear a particulate filter on respirator if you are trying to avoid breathing in fumes? wouldnt you want a vapor cartridge on that instead?
Great question, Sibylle. Looks like our original recommendation in the description is no longer active. We suggest using a silicon carbide or tungsten carbide bit, in a bullet or cone shape. Good luck with the repair, and let us know how it goes! It's not hard -- Just important to follow all the steps and not take shortcuts.
Great question, Jeff. Mark kind of does his repairs by "feel"/experience, but he recommends about a tablespoon of silica per syringeful of gelcoat. You can always start with a little and add more if needed until you get it to the consistency you want. (Don't forget to wear a respirator while handling the silica!) Too little, and the gelcoat will run out of the repair. Too much and it will become super thick. Hope this helps! And thanks or watching.
While there are some small craft such as kayaks and canoes that have clear gelcoat-that is, gelcoat without pigment added-these are extremely rare on larger craft of the type we show in the video. I do not know of any thickening agent that could be used on clear gelcoat without changing the color in some way. My only suggestion with a clear gelcoat would be to use a Mylar covering to prevent sagging and runs as we show in one of our other videos which you can find here: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html
Wow, perfect timing for sharing this video and I've been searching for quite a while and this is, by far, the best video for small stress crack repair!!
Thanks for this Mark. There are so many videos on UA-cam with some many different ways to do things. As a new to me first time boat owner, I want to do it right. But, you don’t know who to trust. However, you know you can trust advise from BoatUS.
BoatUS Thank you so much for your trust, Tony! That means a lot! Do check out some of our other gelcoat repair vids for additional tips and techniques you might find useful: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html
Great question, David! You can kind of see that Mark scooped some out on the stir stick. I'd call it about a tablespoon per syringeful of gelcoat. You can always start with a little and add more if needed until you get it to the consistency you want.
Great video! I'm doing some repairs on my 2006 Boston Whaler, and all of the spots are not on flat areas. They are on the inside and outside of curves, and a couple spots are overlapping nonskid. I guess I picked a real challenge for my first time! Question: Do you recommend wax paper, thin plastic or saran wrap, for placing over the top to get it flat? And how long should I leave the wax paper/plastic on?
Thanks for watching, Tristan! We like using Mylar film, often sold at stationery stores. Sometimes called acetate, I believe. It's clear, flexible, and helps smooth out the repair as well as keeping it in place. I recommend viewing our other gelcoat repair videos, especially the one on repairing vertical surfaces, for additional tips and techniques you might find helpful for your specific repair. You'll leave the sheet in place for the recommended drying time -- usually 8-12 hours ("overnight"). ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes!
How can you fix thin cracks and spider cracks on a textured non-slip gel coated surfaces without ruining it? I'm referring to the non-slip surface on the bow part of one of my hobie cat 16 hauls.
AWESOME question, yehoshua! This is a tricky repair but thankfully there is something called Flex Mold made by MAS Epoxies. It's a flexible silicone type reusable mold. In essence, you make the repair as I show in the video and then lay the Flex Mold into the wet gelcoat. The next day you pull up the mold and you will have a repair that matches the surrounding nonskid The company offers a huge range of patterns to suit almost any boat. It’s available from suppliers like Jamestown Distributors. An online search will turn up a bunch of results. We have this topic on our list of future videos. Thanks so much for watching!!
Been getting a lot of useful information from you on a number of things so I'm wondering... I'm in the process of restoring a 40yr old Wellcraft (solid hull, strong motor ) at 1st I was just going to stick to if it helps it float or find fish great but don't waste time or money on "beauty". Tired of people saying "you came out here in that? (can't wait until one of them has to ask for a tow) anyway, it has this horrible bottom paint I want to get it off. Is there a paint stripper that won't damage the gel coat underneath? Kept on a trailer, don't need it and damn is it ugly. Thanks in advance and keep up the good work. I'm subscribed to your channel if you have a magazine where can I subscribe to that?
Wow, Mark! Thanks for watching and being inspired. First, the answer to your question about stripping bottom paint: There are plenty of paint strippers on the market designed for marine antifouling paints, however, be forewarned that this is a really difficult job. Some strippers create hazardous fumes, others require neutralizing after the process, and they all make a rather huge mess that has to be contained and cleaned up. Some are safe for epoxy barrier coats, and others aren't. Some require plenty of scraping along with a soak-time that can hit 24 hours to reach maximum effectiveness. Often multiple applications (and multiple gallons) are necessary. Just about everyone we know who has tackled this job has said afterward that if they had to do it all over again, they'd pay to have the paint soda-blasted off, instead. In regard to your boat: Good for you! If you love her and she makes you happy, don't listen to anyone else. You might enjoy reading this story from our contributing editor Lenny Rudow about the lessons he learned from refitting his older boat. Why he chose to do that instead of buying something newer. The things that were worth it, the things he should have done, and things he did that weren't worth it. It's a great story, and it might help you prioritize where you put your time and money: www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2020/february/lessons-learned-from-refitting-an-old-boat Finally, we're so thrilled that you are interested in our BoatUS Magazine! The good news: We have one, and it comes out 5 times a year. Plus we have a monthly newsletter with additional stories you won't read in the magazine. It is available with a $25/year membership to BoatUS. The membership is worth it just for the magazine, but you get so much more including exclusive member discounts with manufacturers, car rentals, charters/cruises, and much more. Plus, we have a huge network of marinas, tackle shops, fuel docks, local charter companies, restaurants, and much more that offer our members special discounts on equipment, fuel, supplies, transient slips, and many others. Get rewards from our partner West Marine. Membership also includes free MMSI number registration, local and federal government representation on issues that affect boaters, discounts on online boating courses through our BoatUS Foundation, a free BoatUS App, insurance products through GEICO, discounts on boat graphics, hurricane tracking, and so much more. Or upgrade to a towing membership and get all those membership benefits PLUS on-water towing for breakdowns, dead batteries, soft ungroundings, or running out of fuel through our network of more than 300 TowBoatUS ports across the US. PHEW! To learn more or sign up, visit www.boatus.com/products-and-services/membership and www.boatus.com/products-and-services/boat-towing Especially with an older boat, the towing can offer you confidence that you'll always have an affordable way to get home at the touch of a button, a VHF call, or a phone call to dispatch.
Just did the same process to repair scratches on my black gel coat hull, minus the dremel tool grinding. For anyone wondering if you need a polisher, I learned that you really do in order to get the shine back. Great simply stated video. Thanks BoatUS
Thank you for this. What product/technique would I use to build up the worn through bottom ridges on my Hobie cat? It's just the gelcoat in small areas that's worn through from dragging on the sand. Thanks
Thanks for your question, Steven. Repairing the gelcoat on the bottom of the Hobie is certainly possible and you can find out more about the recommended technique for this at ua-cam.com/video/TJHk81_nKRI/v-deo.html. To be successful, you really need to flip the boat over, which means removing the rig, but the results will be worth it. Trying to work upside down is difficult as you will be fighting gravity and working in awkward positions. Best of luck, and we would love to know how this turns out!
Thanks for the great series of gelcoat repair videos! Do you see any benefit to using a flexible epoxy after grinding out gelcoat stress cracks, followed by the gelcoat per your instructions? I've heard that a gelcoat-only repair may crack after a couple of years.
Thanks for the question, Bill. I would caution against using any sort of flexible substrate under the gelcoat. The gelcoat is essentially a stiff coating and anything underlying gelcoat that is flexible will definitely lead to cracking. Providing the gelcoat repair is done in the way that I show in the video, all will be well. The only time that I would not use my method would be when there is extensive cracking covering the entire deck, which I have seen on some boats. In this case the only sure-fire remedy is to fill and fair the cracks with an epoxy filler and then paint the surface.
Thanks for the question, Onetime. Depending on how deep the rash is, you may want to use this technique instead: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html If you have a light colored hull and use the filler method, we do recommend you use a light colored filler rather than the darker we used in our video. Or expect to need a couple coats of gelcoat to cover it fully.
Excellent video...I have spider cracks around snap holes and other places. Is the same technique used around the snap hole or should I fill the hole completely,fix the spider cracks and re drill?
Hi, Steve, and thanks for the great question! You need to remove the snaps, repair the cracks as shown, and then screw the snaps back on. You should not have to fill and redrill the holes, but do put a little mastic polysulphide sealant, such as the Boatlife products available at West Marine and other retailers (www.westmarine.com/buy/boatlife--life-calk-sealant--P004_127_003_003?recordNum=2), on the threads of the screws before you reattach them.
It certainly is a lot of steps, MacGyver, but not difficult and worth it in the end with a professional-looking finish, money saved, and the personal satisfaction of doing it yourself.
My whole boat looks like an old raisin. My boat doesn't need Botox, it needs a total face lift. My boat will need paint on top of surface crack repair. I have to admit my boat is a "Beater Boat", a cheap one and never to be a show piece. A new top side paint will show up flaws badly. Will not Gel Coat cause paint to not adhere properly? What do I do?
You're right, Rowdy. You need to first repair all cracking and then treat the gelcoat properly with an entire prep-undercoat-paint process. Luckily we've got you covered. Check out the article How to Paint a Boat, which runs through all the steps: www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2017/april/how-to-paint-a-boat Thanks for your question and good luck with the repairs!
Thanks for watching, Bobby. Honestly, it's not that hard. Yes, there are a lot of steps, but if you do the prep work and follow the how-to, you might be surprised. Maybe choose something small and kind of hidden for your first go. You'll build confidence from there. We do have two other gelcoat vids with slightly different methods that might give you more confidence: ua-cam.com/video/TJHk81_nKRI/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html Good luck and let us know how it goes if you decide to tackle the project!
Hi, informative video, but I have to ask what type of gloves you are wearing while using the acetone? I'm guessing nitrile (blue)? I would strongly advise against using nitrile with acetone... it will burn right through. Only use latex. Nitrile is fine for resin etc.
Spider cracts appear for three reasons; 1. Impact 2. Gelcoat applied too thick - gelcoat doesn't want flex and the thicker it is, the less it flexes. This happens a lot around corners where gelcoat can get easily get too thick in application in the mould. 3. The laminate is flexing too much and the gelcoat cannot flex as much as the laminate so it cracks. This means that the laminate is too thin and needs reinforcing. It could be a combination of 2 & 3. Cheers
Spider cracks can happen on boats for those reasons, Robert, but often they happen due to normal wear and tear, like the one we repaired here. Large, gaping cracks that tend to come back after repair are much more concerning and are signs of other issues that need to be investigated and addressed.
Thanks for watching! Glad you found it helpful. Good luck with your project, and make sure to check out our other gelcoat repair videos for additional tips and techniques depending on the type and location of the repairs. ua-cam.com/video/TJHk81_nKRI/v-deo.html
Nice video! The issue I find is the that cracks generally form in not so easy locations such as the one in the video. I have some repairs needed on inside corners/edges
Thanks for the question, David. You're right -- cracks do not always happen to be in the most accessible/convenient places. However, if you are careful when filling the crack, it is usually possible to sand down the repaired gelcoat so that it is flush with its surroundings by wrapping the paper around a shaped block of wood. Alternatively, I suggest checking out another video we have done on repairing vertical surfaces where we discuss a technique that requires using a sheet of mylar - something that might work well for your situation: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html
Glad we could help you out, Waterboy. There are a lot of steps, but it's not difficult, and the results are worth it. Once you get into the swing of it, you should be able to knock a bunch out quickly. Thanks for watching! (And let us know how it goes)
Love to hear that, Harvey! Glad this gave you confidence to give it a go. Let us know how it turns out! (It's truly not difficult to do for the basic to average DIYer.)
Thanks for watching, Edward. There are two ways to get the correct color: You can buy pretinted color for nearly any boat (see the description for a link) or have it matched similar to buying paint at a store. Or you can buy tints and tint it yourself, which is a much trickier job. We are looking into doing a gelcoat tinting video sometime in the future.
Thanks for watching, Luis! This is similar to the one I use (which is currently unavailable): www.amazon.com/HOMEIDOL-Tungsten-Wood-working-Polishing-Engraving/dp/B076D4Z8LX?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_9
Thanks for watching, pwelch! It's really not that difficult. Yes, there are a lot of steps, but if you follow the process, you'll have a great result for a lot less money than paying a pro -- or the annoyance of looking at them all the time! Good luck with the project and let us know how it goes.
Great video! Thank you. How much Colloidal Silica should be added? Can you use too much or too little? Also, for non waxed, what is best to use to once the gel coat is applied, PVA or something else? Thanks
Awesome questions, Mike. I'd call it about a tablespoon per syringeful of gelcoat. You can always start with a little and add more if needed until you get it to the consistency you want. (Don't forget to wear a respirator while handling the silica!) Too little, and the gelcoat will run out of the repair. Too much and it will become super thick. For nonwaxed gelcoat, you can use PVA or cover it with something like a mylar sheet. We talk about that a bit in this video, more so to keep the gelcoat from running, but it can also be used for nonwaxed gelcoat: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html (You might find some other useful gelcoat repair tips depending on where the repair is and how deep.) Thanks for watching!
Hi Poore. Mark has since retired to spend more time doing projects on his boat. But I have a feeling he'd send you a link to this video. Good luck with your project. It's not difficult; just takes time, good prep, and following the steps.
Thanks for watching, Gregg! Glad you found it helpful. If you haven't done so already, be sure to watch all of our other gelcoat repair and maintenance videos for additional tips and techniques depending on where the repairs are located: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html
You're welcome! Be sure to check out our library of gelcoat repair videos. There are some other techniques you might find useful depending on where the repairs are located and what types of repairs they are: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html
Glad you found it helpful, Richard! Be sure to check out our playlist of more gelcoat-repair vids because there are several different techniques shown depending on where the repair is located. There are also extra tips, tricks, and explanations you might find helpful. Bottom line: Repairing gelcoat is not difficult, but you do need to follow the steps for a good result. Good luck with your repair, and let us know how it goes!
![How To Repair Boat Gelcoat [MATERIALS LIST👇] | BoatUS](/img/n.gif)
Great instructions and the key seems to be take your time and have the right tools ready to make this look like a professional job.
Thanks so much for watching, Steve! Glad it was helpful. Yup, you've got it! Lots of steps, but the results (and the savings) are worth it.
Good job simple to follow instructions
Thanks for watching, Kerry. Glad you found it helpful
Thank you Mark, very well explained and good references to required materials.
Thanks, Dirk!
Very informative, right to the point without annoying music intro and extensive blah, blah, blah!
I always appreciate videos like this, especially by those with a British accent.
Thanks, Keith. Glad you found it helpful! We try to keep them to the point. And, yes, Mark's British accent apparently does make the info in the videos even more useful if the number of comments we get about it are any indication 😂
Hello, nice Repaire video, is it normal for one year old boat to have bunch of gelcoat crack? Should this be fixed by the warranty? Thank you.
Thanks for the question, JDL. We're assuming you are referring to superficial cracks and not structural. If they're structural (beyond just the gelcoat) -- they're DEFINITELY not normal. I consulted a couple folks around the office, and we agree spider cracks are likely not normal for a new boat either. We recommend first contacting the dealer you purchased the boat from. If necessary, reach out to the manufacturer. Good luck!
wtf youtube, why am ihere.
😂 I think it's the universe telling you you need a boat! Thanks for watching, and we're always here if you ever buy one!
This video helped me alot, im a young guy in my early 20s and its hard to find knowledgeable people. Thanks to you I was able to restore my 1975 motorhome to a like new finish and your video helped with the cracking thank you for the demonstration and knowledge!
We're so thrilled to hear that, Andrew! Good for you for tackling that job, and we're glad you were able to apply the info we used on a boat to a motor home. Here's to many happy, safe miles (and adventures) ahead!
With the left over materials I could open my own chandlery
Thanks for watching, obiwanfisher. You're correct that there are quite a few materials needed for this, but the savings of doing gelcoat repairs yourself can be substantial. Hopefully you never need to do any repairs, but the investment is worthwhile if you do.
Mark , excellent video , conscise, to the point. Clean and clear.. well done !! Thank you
I worked with resins, gel coats, micro bubbles (silica) and fiberglass mat in FAA aircraft mechanic school years ago. So I had an idea on how to mix gelcoat and apply. However, it’s been years since I’ve done it. This video was just what I needed to make an almost perfect repair in my transom. (Log bumped it last year and put a bunch of radial cracks as big as my hand.) I followed this video to the letter and got results I’m proud of. Best advice I could give is don’t be afraid to grind those cracks wide. I ground next to one and not directly in it as I was being gun shy. I could see the crack when I look for it, but from a few feet away it’s invisible. I figure if it opens up again next year I’ll just give it a do over. Thanks Mark for making this video and passing on all your professional knowledge!
Thanks so much for your wonderful feedback, Fireship! We're thrilled you found this so helpful, particularly with your skill level. We also appreciate you sharing your advice and experience with those looking to tackle this project. There are a lot of steps, but it's not nearly as difficult or scary as we fear. Here's hoping the repair lasts for years to come.
when he pulled out that AARP card I almost died.
You gotta do what you gotta do! Thanks for watching, Skip
Probably the BEST information video for this type of repair! Excellent job Mark...THANKS!
Thanks for watching, Tom!
agreed, simple and straight to the point with good tips
@@garyhsk8 Thanks for watching, Gary!
This guy takes the title of ( Quick, knowledgeable, constructive, helpful) outstanding work 👏
Thanks so much, Chunky! Glad you found it helpful!
It’s apparent Mark knows his craft just his prep work alone show he has learned how to handle material and finishes with amazing results.Thanks for the video.
Thanks so much, Kane! Yes, Mark is extremely thorough with his prep, which is 3/4 of the project.
I think 🤔 it was a very good information but I hate when abbreviations are used as if the audience knows what it means… PVA’s 🙃… Will the spider cracks return overtime & what exactly causes them ?
Good point, Juan. PVA is the hardener additive that is used for curing the gelcoat. It is usually a small bottle of clear liquid. You squeeze a few drops into the decanted gelcoat and mix it in just before you apply it. You have to move fast or it will harden before you get it applied. Spider cracks have a number of causes. Most are from flexing and movement of the fiberglass or from impacts, but others can be indicative of a structural issue. If you have a lot of cracking in an area or it is more than superficial, you'll need to fully investigate and fix the underlying cause. Another cause may be gelcoat that was applied too thick. There's unfortunately not a lot you can do to prevent spider cracks. Keeping the surface clean and polished as well as properly addressing any issues when they come up is your best defense.
Is it necessary to thicken the gel coat when the cracks are in a flat horizontal area like a cabin top or a small sailboat hull turned upside down where there is no chance of running?
Great question, Ron. The thickening is mainly used to keep the gelcoat in place on a vertical surface. Have a look at this other gelcoat repair video for additional tips on flat surfaces: ua-cam.com/video/TJHk81_nKRI/v-deo.htmlsi=3dvuWOsrnGRvgH-v If your gelcoat is unwaxed, you will still need to cover the repair with a mylar sheet or similar to get it to cure. If you're interested in our other gelcoat repair videos for additional tips. techniques, and explanations, see our playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html Hope this helps!
Thank you for your great video!!! I'm doing repar on Lotus Elise front end gel coat spder cracks. Would you recommend to follow your procedure or use different techniques as it will be painted anyway.
Todays prices are pathetic… it’s not inflation, greed by spectrum
Hey, OG. Not sure I understand your comment in relation to this video. Did you comment on the correct one?
Spider crack becomes a H thick balloon
Is this why maddie dissapeared?
❓❓❓
Are the cracks not likely to reappear? I have to to assume that there are some flexion or torsion forces that caused the cracks in the first place. Is there a material that allows for some flexion in areas such as this?
To answer your question, it's important to differentiate between stress cracks and spider cracks (though the terms are often used interchangeably). Stress cracks are generally deeper, involve more than just the gelcoat, have an underlying cause (structural or impact), and are likely to come back if the underlying cause isn't addressed first. Spider cracks are less likely to come back as they're superficial and often caused by age, UV, weather, or dings.
Hi what is the formula of gelcoat with wax and thinner to be able to spray out of my gravity feed
Thanks for watching, Ray. We did a video on how to spray gelcoat using a Preval sprayer: ua-cam.com/video/HU4cch9QwXI/v-deo.html that might answer your question. While I don't know if it would be the same mix, it's probably similar. Another (better?) option is to contact the gelcoat manufacturer's customer service department. The folks there are usually very helpful and can offer recommendations for that specific brand. Hope this helps, and good luck with your project!
Problem with most gelcoat cracks and impacts it’s not the gelcoat but the fiberglass which is damaged underneath, time will tell if the lines open up again. I grind off all the gelcoat and one layer of fiberglass, apply one layer of fiberglass back on and then re gelcoat it again, no cracks will re appear in the future. Been doing this for decades.
Thanks for sharing your method, Steven. This technique is only for repairing surface cracks/crazing. Cracks down into the fiberglass can be a sign of something more structural, which is outside the scope of this repair. We recommend they be inspected by a professional.
Is there any danger of the thickener changing the colour of dark gelcoats?
Oooh! Great question, David. I'm not an expert, and Mark has since retired, but from what I can find, fumed silica should not have any appreciable effect on dark gelcoat. If you're not sure, you can always get color-matched gelcoat paste, which has the silica already mixed in. Hope this is helpful, and thanks for watching!
Very clear an concise demonstration and procedural explanation of the process and materials needed. One of the very best videos which is why I always subscribe to BoatUS for all my HOW-TOs!
Thank you so much, Judith! We're thrilled you found the video helpful, and we hope to keep the good content coming--both in video and print.
Excellent Video. I have ordered all my supplies from Jamestown. I just paid $2,900.00 to have a bunch repaired on my 2009 Beneteau. It is time I learned and your video was very informative.
Thanks for watching, moe! We're glad you found it useful. Let us know how your project goes. It's not hard to do this yourself--you just have to follow the steps. You might want to watch some of our other gelcoat repair videos, too, because we discuss slightly different techniques you might find helpful depending on location and depth: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html
I always use putty to fix cracks then spray it take the paint line out and i sand and buff it out but this is alot different then what i do but 400 scratches are hard to take out with a buffer i always go back over it with 800 and the da marks come right out
Thanks for sharing your technique, summertate. There are many ways to achieve good results; this is what has worked best for us. We typically only use filler for deeper holes, such as when equipment has been removed. But if that works for you in this situation and you're happy with the results, keep doing what you're doing!
The end result looked great too me
Great video with a wealth of information! Challenge is finding the matching grade of white for the boat. Will definitely try this !
Thanks, Pierre. Yes, color matching is probably the hardest part if you don't have gelcoat that matches your boat. Thankfully several companies make premixed gelcoat to match most standard boat colors. If necessary, you can also try matching it yourself using white gelcoat and a tinting kit, though that takes a bit more finesse and practice. And some companies can create a custom match if you can bring something to match from. Good luck with your repair.
This was a GREAT tutorial! I have (under a Shipwright) restored two boats. At the same time Gel coat was never really a issue I worked on personally. Now that I am restoring my 3rd and my hopefully last live aboard. I really love the close up. The detail and the detail list. When I do get off to actually posting our renovations I will make sure to credit your video for the help I got.
Aw, shucks! Thanks so much for watching, and we're glad you found this video useful. Be sure to check out our two other gelcoat videos, which include repairing gelcoat on flat and vertical surfaces. You'll find a couple different techniques that you may find useful depending on the application. Wishing you all the best with your restoration. If you take photos during the process, feel free to send them to us at BoatUS Magazine (magazine@boatus.com) to consider for our occasional makeover articles.
What's the best way to match the color on a older boat?
Awesome question, Henry. There are a couple ways you can go about this. Easiest way is to purchase pretinted gelcoat to match your specific hull color. Many gelcoat manufacturers offer a very wide range of premixed colors. If your hull color isn't one that's already in stock, most manufacturers can color match for you like when you go to the paint store.
The second way to do this is to buy a base gelcoat along with tints and mix it yourself. This is definitely trickier and requires some patience and trial and error. It's easiest if you are just trying to lighten up a color slightly. You decant your gelcoat and add a little tint at a time until you get the right shade. Use a gloved finger to swipe it on near your repair to check for matching. It will likely lighten up a smidge once dried, and will further lighten due to UV exposure over time.
Keep in mind that your hull color may have lightened slightly in the sun, so even a premixed color may not match exactly. Chances are, though, that you'll only see the repair if you're up close to it, and it will blend in over time.
We are looking at doing a gelcoat tinting video at some point in the future, but everything is on hold right now. Make sure to subscribe to our channel and hit that notification bell to receive updates when we post new videos about every other week.
Thank you so much, your videos are very well done. And gives me the confidence to tackle a scrap from a dock screw we encountered. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching, Burt! Hope your project goes smoothly, and let us know how it goes.
Great information...love you videos....but can you give me an idea where to purchase the gelcoat with wax please? I’m in the uk!
Thanks for watching, Bev, and we're glad we can be of assistance! Unfortunately, we aren't able to offer any recommendations there in the UK, and our resident Brit, Mark, who was featured in the video, is now retired and enjoying his boat. However, a simple Google search might turn up some options for you. (I did a search for "color-matched waxed gelcoat.") In our experience here in the U.S., the customer service folks at the manufacturers or distributors tend to be super helpful if you have any questions or concerns. Good luck and let us know how your project turns out!
Good for Mark......Googled this morning and managed to get a gelcoat kit from a supplier an hour’s drive away, so all sorted now, but thank you!
@@bevspencer8583 Fantastic news! Glad you found one close by. Let us know how it goes.
How deep do you need to dremel the crack? I have a crack(black) in the dashboard, and a couple at the base of the windshield. The biggest one is 2 inches long. What is the absolute lowest temperature to do this kind of work in?
Hi Gary. Thanks for the questions. Without seeing it in person, it's hard to say. We recommend watching our other gelcoat repair videos for additional techniques depending on the depth and location of the repair. There are also some additional handy tips and more in-depth discussions of waxed vs unwaxed gelcoat and more. ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html When opening the cracks with a dremel, you only want to go as deep as the gelcoat surface and not into the fiberglass and/or wood below. Regarding temperature, check with the specific gelcoat manufacturer, but general surface and air temps above 60 F are best. 70 F is better. One final note: If the cracks are deeper and affect the fiberglass or wood, you may have a bigger structural issue to deal with and repairing the gelcoat isn't going to fix it. If there's any question, have a professional take a look. Hope this helps and good luck!
@@boatus I filled in some minor cracks with MagicEzy hairline fix, but it only works on very thin hairline cracks. Anything bigger it comes out. I may try to use a pin to clean out the bigger ones and clean with acetone, may spot test filling in the crack without using a dremel first and see if it works.
I don't think you're going to get the results you want that way, but it probably can't hurt to try. You can always redo it later, though it will mean doing it twice.
What about the color how you match the gealcoat
Color matching can be a little tricky, Alistair. Buy a gelcoat tinting kit online or at your local marine store. It usually comes with a bunch of little tubes of pigment. Unless you are a painter, it could take a lot of trial and error to get the right match. Do your color mixing without catalyst so you have plenty of time to work. When you think you have it, use a gloved finger to swipe it on the area to be repaired to test. Wipe it off. Once you get the color right, add the catalyst and do the repair. An easier option is to purchase precolored gelcoat, kind of like you would purchase paint for your house. Most gelcoat manufacturers can mix standard colors for most makes and models.
Do you rinse the buffer out when your done with just water for reuse?
Thanks for the question, krussell. Do you mean the buffer pad or the buffer itself? Some buffer pads are generally disposed of after use. However, if you do a search, there are a bunch of videos on how to clean some buffer pads. You just want to be sure you don't introduce any grit or it can leave scratches in your finish.
I see how this repair is excellent however, I do my spider-crack repair using Marine-Tex Epoxy Putty. It is an inexpensive product and I have found the repair to be virtually invisible and far, far easier than this procedure.
Thanks for watching, Lance. Your technique isn't one I'd endorse personally, but glad it works for you.
great vid. informative! the interior of my center consol head area has unfished fiberglass, kind of rough, can these procedures be used on the rough fiberglass to seal it over and make it smoother???
Thanks for the question, John. What you’re likely seeing is fiberglass mat. This is common, generally due to cost-saving measures. It isn’t finished like the “outside” surfaces that you see, leaving the surface very rough. If you’re merely trying to smooth it, adding a layer of gelcoat isn’t going to give you the finish you’re hoping for. To do that, you’d need to sand and finish the fiberglass work before adding the gelcoat. A lot of work! If there are really rough, raised areas that are catching clothing or even drawing blood, you can try sanding them down a bit. Some boat owners have painted on an epoxy finish and report that it helps, though you may want to test a small hidden area first before you commit to the entire thing. Alternatively, many folks simply add snaps to the corners of flat unfinished areas and then snap on a canvas cover to hide it - probably the quickest, easiest fix.
@@boatus thank you for reply againg great information. i like the light expoxy coating idea. might try that. ty
@@johncardow2493 Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Excellent and thank you.
You're welcome and thank you for watching!
What about spider cracks in nonskid?
Thanks for the question, NJLarry! (I was born and grew up in NJ -- and tried to move back for a few years -- but am now a Marylander -- or Merliner as we say over here near Chesapeake Bay.) Nonskid repair is generally similar to fixing smooth gelcoat, though you will need to create the nonskid pattern in your repair for it to blend (and retain the nonskid-ness). You'll either need to create a mold using part of your unaffected nonskid (search "match nonskid deck patterns'), or you can purchase a mold that matches your nonskid from Gibco Flex-Mold (gibcoflexmold.com). The company offers many different common nonskid deck molds, so you should be able to find one that matches pretty well, if not perfectly. The company can also send you a sample pack if you're not sure which is the best match from looking online. I'm guessing they also have videos available on how to use the molds to get the best results. Hope this helps, and good luck with your repair!
That was very well done, very informative! Thank you! Great help!
Thanks for watching, David!
Clearly knows what he is doing and does an exceptions job of transferring knowledge for DIY'er with no extra distractions.... Much thanks!
Thanks, crypto!
Excellent video. It would help if you listed with links all the products that you used, would that be possible?
Thanks for the suggestion, Matt. We'll look at adding that to the description shortly.
BoatUS still waiting lol please
Info is now in the description box! Appreciate the idea, and we'll be doing the same for our other gelcoat repair videos later today.
@@debianlinux9448 OK, OK! :-) Product list and links are now in the description. Missed the mixing stick, but we'll add that when I get the info.
Hello Mark - Thanks for your instruction. I'm new to this process. Wondering what you can use in lieu of silica to create the paste? or would you have filled the spider crack with 3M platinum filler? If silica is the best way to go, then great; I just want to make sure I know the options. Thank you for your knowledge and instruction!
Thanks for the question, Amanda. There are likely other acceptable ways to repair spider cracks in boat gelcoat, however, this is the method that Mark prefers. The silica is necessary to thicken the gelcoat enough that it fills the repair and doesn't run out. Depending on the size and location, you might be able to use mylar plastic instead. You can learn more here: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.htmlsi=bpGHmhU0RQEd8v5g
Thanks for the advice and video. Following your instructions, my repairs worked a treat
Thanks for the update, Peter! We're so thrilled it worked well for you. Not too difficult, right?
I like to tape much closer to the repair and when I spread with the card it leaves a tape thin layer over the repair. I like the puffing products you used and will be adding to my favorites on Amazon. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing, Jeff! Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for this video. I have a question: my dad has a wooden boat and like on this same exact spot and others around the boat, last summer we repaired cracks with body filler and repainted with marine top gloss paint, but months later, everywhere where we repaired, around he filler it's all cracked again. We basically have to do everything over again. What would you suggest to use this time over? Many were holes under the surface from regular rusted screws that we removed and filled it. We did a great finishing job, but heartbreaking to see the cracks again.
Thanks for your question, MCF. I don't have a definite answer for you, especially since we can't see the boat in person, but you probably need to start by figuring out the cause of the cracks before you can decide the best way to fix them. I came across this really useful PDF from West Systems, which may have the answers you're looking for. I believe epoxy is a better choice than body filler, which is typically a polyester or vinyl resin. A quick search turns up that epoxy actually binds to the wood and creates a much longer-lasting bond. Here's a link to the West document. Hope you find it helpful. If not, let us know, and I can reach out to some of our experts to ask. Mark, who was our resident boat repair expert, has since retired. www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/0617-Wooden-Boat-Manual.pdf
Car guys would say to do an X sanding pattern to avoid stripes.
Excellent. Thanks!
You're very welcome. Glad you found it helpful!
Could you please explain the causes of hairline cracks? Are they common? Should I be concerned about the integrity of my boat? Is a single discrete crack usually a cosmetic issue and not a sign of structural issue? Thanks so much in advance.
{Edit: i just noticed a previous response to a comment that answered most of my questions. Perhaps it would be best to add this info in the description}
Thanks, HG. Glad you got an answer to your question. I have now added that info to the description.
Why would you wear a particulate filter on respirator if you are trying to avoid breathing in fumes? wouldnt you want a vapor cartridge on that instead?
Very helpful tutorial, I‘ll be doing this on our boat in a couple of weeks. May I ask which tip/attachment you are using on your Dremel?
Great question, Sibylle. Looks like our original recommendation in the description is no longer active. We suggest using a silicon carbide or tungsten carbide bit, in a bullet or cone shape. Good luck with the repair, and let us know how it goes! It's not hard -- Just important to follow all the steps and not take shortcuts.
So how much silica did you add??
Great question, Jeff. Mark kind of does his repairs by "feel"/experience, but he recommends about a tablespoon of silica per syringeful of gelcoat. You can always start with a little and add more if needed until you get it to the consistency you want. (Don't forget to wear a respirator while handling the silica!) Too little, and the gelcoat will run out of the repair. Too much and it will become super thick. Hope this helps! And thanks or watching.
Hi, what if the gel coat is clear? How do I handle the part about needing a thickening agent (such as that silica)?
While there are some small craft such as kayaks and canoes that have clear gelcoat-that is, gelcoat without pigment added-these are extremely rare on larger craft of the type we show in the video. I do not know of any thickening agent that could be used on clear gelcoat without changing the color in some way. My only suggestion with a clear gelcoat would be to use a Mylar covering to prevent sagging and runs as we show in one of our other videos which you can find here: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html
@@boatus Thanks for the reply.
Wow, perfect timing for sharing this video and I've been searching for quite a while and this is, by far, the best video for small stress crack repair!!
Thanks for watching, and glad we could help! Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes.
Thanks for this Mark. There are so many videos on UA-cam with some many different ways to do things. As a new to me first time boat owner, I want to do it right. But, you don’t know who to trust. However, you know you can trust advise from BoatUS.
BoatUS
Thank you so much for your trust, Tony! That means a lot! Do check out some of our other gelcoat repair vids for additional tips and techniques you might find useful: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html
Unless I missed it, you didn't say how much of the colloidal silica to use to thicken the gelcoat. How much should be used?
Great question, David! You can kind of see that Mark scooped some out on the stir stick. I'd call it about a tablespoon per syringeful of gelcoat. You can always start with a little and add more if needed until you get it to the consistency you want.
Great video! I'm doing some repairs on my 2006 Boston Whaler, and all of the spots are not on flat areas. They are on the inside and outside of curves, and a couple spots are overlapping nonskid. I guess I picked a real challenge for my first time! Question: Do you recommend wax paper, thin plastic or saran wrap, for placing over the top to get it flat? And how long should I leave the wax paper/plastic on?
Thanks for watching, Tristan! We like using Mylar film, often sold at stationery stores. Sometimes called acetate, I believe. It's clear, flexible, and helps smooth out the repair as well as keeping it in place. I recommend viewing our other gelcoat repair videos, especially the one on repairing vertical surfaces, for additional tips and techniques you might find helpful for your specific repair. You'll leave the sheet in place for the recommended drying time -- usually 8-12 hours ("overnight"). ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes!
Well there goes my next decade. I'll miss boating!
Ouch! I'll assume you have lots of spider cracks that need repairing? Good luck!
How can you fix thin cracks and spider cracks on a textured non-slip gel coated surfaces without ruining it?
I'm referring to the non-slip surface on the bow part of one of my hobie cat 16 hauls.
AWESOME question, yehoshua! This is a tricky repair but thankfully there is something called Flex Mold made by MAS Epoxies. It's a flexible silicone type reusable mold. In essence, you make the repair as I show in the video and then lay the Flex Mold into the wet gelcoat. The next day you pull up the mold and you will have a repair that matches the surrounding nonskid The company offers a huge range of patterns to suit almost any boat. It’s available from suppliers like Jamestown Distributors. An online search will turn up a bunch of results. We have this topic on our list of future videos. Thanks so much for watching!!
Been getting a lot of useful information from you on a number of things so I'm wondering... I'm in the process of restoring a 40yr old Wellcraft (solid hull, strong motor ) at 1st I was just going to stick to if it helps it float or find fish great but don't waste time or money on "beauty". Tired of people saying "you came out here in that? (can't wait until one of them has to ask for a tow) anyway, it has this horrible bottom paint I want to get it off. Is there a paint stripper that won't damage the gel coat underneath? Kept on a trailer, don't need it and damn is it ugly. Thanks in advance and keep up the good work. I'm subscribed to your channel if you have a magazine where can I subscribe to that?
Wow, Mark! Thanks for watching and being inspired. First, the answer to your question about stripping bottom paint: There are plenty of paint strippers on the market designed for marine antifouling paints, however, be forewarned that this is a really difficult job. Some strippers create hazardous fumes, others require neutralizing after the process, and they all make a rather huge mess that has to be contained and cleaned up. Some are safe for epoxy barrier coats, and others aren't. Some require plenty of scraping along with a soak-time that can hit 24 hours to reach maximum effectiveness. Often multiple applications (and multiple gallons) are necessary. Just about everyone we know who has tackled this job has said afterward that if they had to do it all over again, they'd pay to have the paint soda-blasted off, instead.
In regard to your boat: Good for you! If you love her and she makes you happy, don't listen to anyone else. You might enjoy reading this story from our contributing editor Lenny Rudow about the lessons he learned from refitting his older boat. Why he chose to do that instead of buying something newer. The things that were worth it, the things he should have done, and things he did that weren't worth it. It's a great story, and it might help you prioritize where you put your time and money: www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2020/february/lessons-learned-from-refitting-an-old-boat
Finally, we're so thrilled that you are interested in our BoatUS Magazine! The good news: We have one, and it comes out 5 times a year. Plus we have a monthly newsletter with additional stories you won't read in the magazine. It is available with a $25/year membership to BoatUS. The membership is worth it just for the magazine, but you get so much more including exclusive member discounts with manufacturers, car rentals, charters/cruises, and much more. Plus, we have a huge network of marinas, tackle shops, fuel docks, local charter companies, restaurants, and much more that offer our members special discounts on equipment, fuel, supplies, transient slips, and many others. Get rewards from our partner West Marine. Membership also includes free MMSI number registration, local and federal government representation on issues that affect boaters, discounts on online boating courses through our BoatUS Foundation, a free BoatUS App, insurance products through GEICO, discounts on boat graphics, hurricane tracking, and so much more. Or upgrade to a towing membership and get all those membership benefits PLUS on-water towing for breakdowns, dead batteries, soft ungroundings, or running out of fuel through our network of more than 300 TowBoatUS ports across the US. PHEW! To learn more or sign up, visit www.boatus.com/products-and-services/membership and www.boatus.com/products-and-services/boat-towing Especially with an older boat, the towing can offer you confidence that you'll always have an affordable way to get home at the touch of a button, a VHF call, or a phone call to dispatch.
Thank you so much.
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching.
Just did the same process to repair scratches on my black gel coat hull, minus the dremel tool grinding. For anyone wondering if you need a polisher, I learned that you really do in order to get the shine back. Great simply stated video. Thanks BoatUS
Thanks for watching, and thanks for your helpful advice!
This the automatic car?
I couldn't find my AARP card so I can't finish the repair until my retirement
Yeah, that might be a problem. Maybe you have an older friend or family member who could lend you one in the meantime? 😂
What I need to do to my boat.
Thanks for watching, Kevin. Hope this video helps!
excellent video
Thanks for watching, Terry!
Thank you for this. What product/technique would I use to build up the worn through bottom ridges on my Hobie cat? It's just the gelcoat in small areas that's worn through from dragging on the sand. Thanks
Thanks for your question, Steven. Repairing the gelcoat on the bottom of the Hobie is certainly possible and you can find out more about the recommended technique for this at ua-cam.com/video/TJHk81_nKRI/v-deo.html. To be successful, you really need to flip the boat over, which means removing the rig, but the results will be worth it. Trying to work upside down is difficult as you will be fighting gravity and working in awkward positions. Best of luck, and we would love to know how this turns out!
Thanks for the great series of gelcoat repair videos! Do you see any benefit to using a flexible epoxy after grinding out gelcoat stress cracks, followed by the gelcoat per your instructions? I've heard that a gelcoat-only repair may crack after a couple of years.
Thanks for the question, Bill. I would caution against using any sort of flexible substrate under the gelcoat. The gelcoat is essentially a stiff coating and anything underlying gelcoat that is flexible will definitely lead to cracking. Providing the gelcoat repair is done in the way that I show in the video, all will be well. The only time that I would not use my method would be when there is extensive cracking covering the entire deck, which I have seen on some boats. In this case the only sure-fire remedy is to fill and fair the cracks with an epoxy filler and then paint the surface.
great video and great job sir! I learned a lot and please keep these very informative videos coming. much appreciated all your expert advice.thank you
Thanks so much for watching, Joe! We will certainly keep the videos coming.
Would this be an acceptable repair method for some trailer rash along the keel? Or should I use a fairing compound first?
Thanks for the question, Onetime. Depending on how deep the rash is, you may want to use this technique instead: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html If you have a light colored hull and use the filler method, we do recommend you use a light colored filler rather than the darker we used in our video. Or expect to need a couple coats of gelcoat to cover it fully.
Excellent video...I have spider cracks around snap holes and other places. Is the same technique used around the snap hole or should I fill the hole completely,fix the spider cracks and re drill?
Hi, Steve, and thanks for the great question! You need to remove the snaps, repair the cracks as shown, and then screw the snaps back on. You should not have to fill and redrill the holes, but do put a little mastic polysulphide sealant, such as the Boatlife products available at West Marine and other retailers (www.westmarine.com/buy/boatlife--life-calk-sealant--P004_127_003_003?recordNum=2), on the threads of the screws before you reattach them.
GOOD DEMO. should work for cracks on my camper, I hope.
Bill K. South Dakota
Thanks for watching, Bill. Yes, the process should be similar. Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
Awesome video! I have to do some repairs my self I’ll be making videos about the out come. Thanks for the info
Thanks for watching!
very time consuming ,but on the spot for info . thank you / MacgyversRide :)
It certainly is a lot of steps, MacGyver, but not difficult and worth it in the end with a professional-looking finish, money saved, and the personal satisfaction of doing it yourself.
My whole boat looks like an old raisin. My boat doesn't need Botox, it needs a total face lift. My boat will need paint on top of surface crack repair. I have to admit my boat is a "Beater Boat", a cheap one and never to be a show piece. A new top side paint will show up flaws badly. Will not Gel Coat cause paint to not adhere properly? What do I do?
You're right, Rowdy. You need to first repair all cracking and then treat the gelcoat properly with an entire prep-undercoat-paint process. Luckily we've got you covered. Check out the article How to Paint a Boat, which runs through all the steps: www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2017/april/how-to-paint-a-boat Thanks for your question and good luck with the repairs!
You need the grind the cracks down to the fibre glass otherwise it will crack again
Thanks for adding your advice, David.
U wanna do my boat? Lol I don't feel confident enough.
Thanks for watching, Bobby. Honestly, it's not that hard. Yes, there are a lot of steps, but if you do the prep work and follow the how-to, you might be surprised. Maybe choose something small and kind of hidden for your first go. You'll build confidence from there. We do have two other gelcoat vids with slightly different methods that might give you more confidence: ua-cam.com/video/TJHk81_nKRI/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html Good luck and let us know how it goes if you decide to tackle the project!
Hi, informative video, but I have to ask what type of gloves you are wearing while using the acetone? I'm guessing nitrile (blue)? I would strongly advise against using nitrile with acetone... it will burn right through. Only use latex. Nitrile is fine for resin etc.
Thanks for the concern, grim. I believe they were Latex. No issues with it burning through.
Spider cracts appear for three reasons;
1. Impact
2. Gelcoat applied too thick - gelcoat doesn't want flex and the thicker it is, the less it flexes. This happens a lot around corners where gelcoat can get easily get too thick in application in the mould.
3. The laminate is flexing too much and the gelcoat cannot flex as much as the laminate so it cracks. This means that the laminate is too thin and needs reinforcing.
It could be a combination of 2 & 3. Cheers
Spider cracks can happen on boats for those reasons, Robert, but often they happen due to normal wear and tear, like the one we repaired here. Large, gaping cracks that tend to come back after repair are much more concerning and are signs of other issues that need to be investigated and addressed.
Thanks Mark. Needed this video. Was recently looking at some cracks and did not know how to fix them.
Thanks for watching! Glad you found it helpful. Good luck with your project, and make sure to check out our other gelcoat repair videos for additional tips and techniques depending on the type and location of the repairs. ua-cam.com/video/TJHk81_nKRI/v-deo.html
Nice video! The issue I find is the that cracks generally form in not so easy locations such as the one in the video. I have some repairs needed on inside corners/edges
Thanks for the question, David. You're right -- cracks do not always happen to be in the most accessible/convenient places. However, if you are careful when filling the crack, it is usually possible to sand down the repaired gelcoat so that it is flush with its surroundings by wrapping the paper around a shaped block of wood. Alternatively, I suggest checking out another video we have done on repairing vertical surfaces where we discuss a technique that requires using a sheet of mylar - something that might work well for your situation: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html
Great stuff! Step by step guide for everybody to easily understand. Many thanks.
Thanks for watching, Bob! Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for posting your videos, I've got quite a few of these little blighters on my Sigma, now I know what to do.
Glad we could help you out, Waterboy. There are a lot of steps, but it's not difficult, and the results are worth it. Once you get into the swing of it, you should be able to knock a bunch out quickly. Thanks for watching! (And let us know how it goes)
@@boatus thank you.
Excellent video. I am going to try this on some small cracks and see if I have the confidence to take on larger cracks.
Love to hear that, Harvey! Glad this gave you confidence to give it a go. Let us know how it turns out! (It's truly not difficult to do for the basic to average DIYer.)
Wow that was a great video. I have some bothersome cracks I may try to repair. Thanks!
Thanks so much for watching, Valerie! Good luck with your project, and let us know how it goes.
Great informational vid. Not sure how to match exact color on my Pursuit.
Thanks for watching, Edward. There are two ways to get the correct color: You can buy pretinted color for nearly any boat (see the description for a link) or have it matched similar to buying paint at a store. Or you can buy tints and tint it yourself, which is a much trickier job. We are looking into doing a gelcoat tinting video sometime in the future.
Thank you for the video. Great info! What type of bit is best to open up the cracks?
Thanks for watching, Luis! This is similar to the one I use (which is currently unavailable): www.amazon.com/HOMEIDOL-Tungsten-Wood-working-Polishing-Engraving/dp/B076D4Z8LX?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_9
Wow! An excellent tutorial. Well done BoatUS. Subscribed.
Thanks, Julian! Glad you found it helpful, and welcome aboard!
Very informative. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thanks a lot I now have confidence to tackle some problem areas.
Thanks for watching, Joe. Glad you found this helpful. Good luck with your repair(s), and let us know how it goes!
Thanks for the detailed instruction ... took the fear out of repairing spider cracks.
Thanks for watching, pwelch! It's really not that difficult. Yes, there are a lot of steps, but if you follow the process, you'll have a great result for a lot less money than paying a pro -- or the annoyance of looking at them all the time! Good luck with the project and let us know how it goes.
Great video! Thank you. How much Colloidal Silica should be added? Can you use too much or too little? Also, for non waxed, what is best to use to once the gel coat is applied, PVA or something else? Thanks
Awesome questions, Mike. I'd call it about a tablespoon per syringeful of gelcoat. You can always start with a little and add more if needed until you get it to the consistency you want. (Don't forget to wear a respirator while handling the silica!) Too little, and the gelcoat will run out of the repair. Too much and it will become super thick. For nonwaxed gelcoat, you can use PVA or cover it with something like a mylar sheet. We talk about that a bit in this video, more so to keep the gelcoat from running, but it can also be used for nonwaxed gelcoat: ua-cam.com/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/v-deo.html (You might find some other useful gelcoat repair tips depending on where the repair is and how deep.) Thanks for watching!
@@boatus Great info! Thank you!
Excellent video!
Thank you for sharing.
You are quite welcome Pashko! Do check out our other two gelcoat repair videos for additional repair tips and techniques for different applications.
Awesome
Thanks for watching, robert!
Hi Mark, can you tell me what you would do if you had a jet ski that had many of these spider hairline cracks on nose of the PWC?
Hi Poore. Mark has since retired to spend more time doing projects on his boat. But I have a feeling he'd send you a link to this video. Good luck with your project. It's not difficult; just takes time, good prep, and following the steps.
Nice, clear demonstration! Thank you!
Thanks for watching, Gregg! Glad you found it helpful. If you haven't done so already, be sure to watch all of our other gelcoat repair and maintenance videos for additional tips and techniques depending on where the repairs are located: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html
Exceptional attention to detail!
Great clip, thanks!
Thanks for watching, Brett!
liked it :)
Thanks for watching, Ted!
Great video. Amazing results. Thank you.
Thanks for watching, Ann!
Thank you
You're welcome! Be sure to check out our library of gelcoat repair videos. There are some other techniques you might find useful depending on where the repairs are located and what types of repairs they are: ua-cam.com/play/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq.html
Great explanations. Lots of steps, but quality repair always has that.
Thanks for watching, Nate!
Thanks for the vedio its a great start to my repair.
Glad you found it helpful, Richard! Be sure to check out our playlist of more gelcoat-repair vids because there are several different techniques shown depending on where the repair is located. There are also extra tips, tricks, and explanations you might find helpful. Bottom line: Repairing gelcoat is not difficult, but you do need to follow the steps for a good result. Good luck with your repair, and let us know how it goes!
Mark, it was a very useful content, you are great.
Thanks for watching and glad you found it helpful. Be sure to check out our gelcoat repair playlist for additional tips and techniques!