Andy has literally helped me transform my boat...he is the best at explaining what do do which has given me confidence to do things correctly instead of half ass
For boats or otherwise, some of the best fiberglass discussion on UA-cam IMO. I'm applying it to automotive work on my own and feel like the rigor and attention to detail here is excellent advice for any application.
Agree and also would highly recommend ua-cam.com/users/LifeOnTheHulls ,professional kayak builder ,very clear instructions,evidence based and attention to detail.
I'm the fourth owner of a carolina skiff..each of the 3 previous owners installed a new depth finder..6 holes with screws in them. I'm in the process of filling now. I use a stick for a depth finder..stick touches= shallow..stick don't touch= deep.
Straightforward and solid information, as usual, Andy. One quick thought with cored decks: especially if there’s been any water intrusion into the hole, you’ll want to clean out any old core material before adding new epoxy. I do this with a homemade right angle reamer, basically a nail shaft bent with pliers and inserted into a drill. It works pretty well to open up the space between the fiberglass layers and makes for a stronger, more positive plug.
"having the smallest amount of shrinkage"!!! cracked me up 😂 Watched it several times, and your face after you said it.. priceless! Your content is THE BEST
I'm about to rebuild my Vbirth and is looking for a good laminating epoxy. Do you know of a West system that use almost no wax or blushing agent? Andy used a polyester resin for lamination, but I was trying to stay away from polyester.
Great info Andy. For folks that don't like mixing and silica dust and have a small job, we use the pre thickened epoxy (THIXO or Flexpoxy) that comes in a caulk gun cartridge. We can dispense the epoxy right out the end of the mixing tip into the fastener hole, or squirt it into the syringe tube for smaller holes or seams. If there is product left over, we put the cap back on the tube and it is good to go for the next project. Happy New Year! Clark and Skipper
I just put 8 hrs into working on my new to me boat. It was 97 degrees out yesterday and I was baking in my big white tub. Patching screw holes and putting in a T top. Apparently I didn't get enough of boat repairs because here I am😂. I feel better knowing I used epoxy now. I was hoping I didn't screw up.
Takes more time and effort (and materials) to do the job right. Thank you for teaching us the right way. And, even if we can't do our own work, at least this explains what to look for if someone else does the work for us. A good repair won't be cheap but it will last and will be something you can trust well into the future..
I purchased a surfboard repair kit. It had gel coat / hardener as you would expect. I also had a piece of thick cellophane to place over the wet gelcoat to create a smooth surface. It worked really well. Ever think of doing something like that for a large area? it would eliminate all of the wet sanding etc? Almost like a reverse mold. maybe shrink wrap over an entire hull?
Great video as always! Recently I started adding the fillers to the resin pre hardener. I find it mixes easier and doesn't take away from the working time of the pot. Is there any downside to doing it this way that you can think of?
Great video. Andy is the man! I’ll be sharing this on the keywestboatsforum. My cooler seat came loose and I have a ton of holes to fill in the deck and the fiberglass base. No access from underneath the deck. Total Boat has some nice material.
I use epoxy putty. Reason being I can press it through and fill the hole as opposed to patching over it. It adds some structure back to it. I've also thought of putty, sanding, and then fiberglass. I use JB waterweld
Hello Andy, thanks for all your informative videos. They’re a joy to watch & learn from. I have a couple screw button studs that have ripped out for my canvas enclosure. What should I fill with so I can re secure them down? Thank you for your time!!
Excellent boat repair channel. I know you are based in usa and everything is inches. But only 3 countries or so use it worldwide. Would be nice and easier for the majority if metric system would be used. Thx for videos.
I have been watching your videos for learning to do glass work. I was rebuilding my old boat. Can you make a video showing how to drill a whole to make a thru hull fitting for a second bilge pump?
Good video. I stop using measuring cups or the pump. Instead I find the weight ratios of hardener to resin (usually not the same as the volume ratios). Then I make a chart 0.1 to 10.0 This will cover anything you can think of. 1 gram, 1 ounce, 1 pound. Then I put an inexpensive digital gram scale under saran wrap or in a baggie (left open!) This keeps the goop off the scale. I Tare (zero it) to an empty cup. Then by eye I pour in about how much resin I think I need in the cup or one similar. Read my units. Maybe it says 45.6 grams. Look at the chart for 4.5 - 4.6. In that row will be two other numbers the weight of the hardener, and then the total weight of both. Then I'll just pour in hardener until I get close to the total number. If I go over... I can add a little more resin. It's always worked. If I mix a filler to mount hardware I'll always use a dense filler like WestSystems 406. Of course if I'm in a hurry and want it to cure quickly I'll follow the direction to let the mixed epoxy sit for a minute or two before adding hardener. If I want it to not kick off for a while (maybe a bunch of holes) I'll add the filler soon after I mix the resin and hardener. And I always wear a full respirator and nitrile gloves when working with epoxy. It's carcenigenic and hypersensitizing. (Heard of a guy who learned to build boats, never protected his skin or wore a respirator. By the time he was good he couldn't go near epoxy without getting a severe reaction.) The resin is 90% BP-A, meaning it acts on your body like high random doses of estrogen. Epoxy has a nice nutty smell. Vinegar is a great solvent for epoxy. I've reused chip brushes multiple time because I put them in vinegar before the epoxy kicked off. And I'd advise anyone with a boat to find a big hole, cut eight to ten layers of glass (smaller and smaller away from the perimeter. Keep them stacked on construction plastic, saturate them all at one. Squeegee the excess epoxy off the stack. Paint the margins of the hole and then lay on the whole stacked patch. It won't be perfectly flat, but with some filler and sanding job done. What this is really effective for is an emergency repair. Give me 30 minutes and a tracing of the hole and I can have that patched and watertight. (The way to use a tracing of the hole is to either draw smaller and smaller lines towards the middle. Then just cut each layer out using the same tracing. Don't get too small.) The reason everyone should do this is once you've done it, you'll always know how to do it and you can solve a serious problem anywhere. Hope this helps
Thank you for your informative videos.... It helps us other UA-camrs to prepare so that we don't look like complete novices when we get into the issues you are solving so elegantly.... I'll express my gratitude in my videos when I get to the epoxy stuff. Thank you and a happy New year
I helped neighbor Fred pick out a boat, an thought, I'd really like to buy it if he every sales! Later he says his hips are so bad, he wants to sell! Now boat sitting in my driveway, but it's got Fred's handiwork in screw holes I need to fix, this is timely for me! Haha! I did enjoy, but grinding, filler, glass, more thin epoxy, let dry over night, additional steps tomorrow! I'm thinking epoxy an if needed repair epoxy in ten years take 5 minutes each for 10 minutes for 2 repairs in ten+ years, haha!
I love your videos! Is there a follow up to this video that shows how to finish the patches? I was thinking gel coat but another of your videos said no gel coat with epoxy. Any help?
just a few minor tipps: - use nitrile gloves (developing a sensitivity is directly related to exposure time - plus cleanup is a lot easier) - for holes as big as they were for the front cleats I would start with a patch on the bottom and once cured then fill with the thickened epoxy from the top and the top patch. - with epoxy always use a release fabric if possible. All amin blush will be gone with the fabric and the rough surface can directly take subsequent layers without sanding or if sanding is needed, it is a lot easier to knock down. - when pumping 3 strokes of epoxy, don't pump AAABBB but ABABAB. If anything happens (running out of component, phone rings, remembering to put on gloves, etc.) you won't ever get mixed up. - I always strain my silica to get rid of the lumps that are a PITA to mix.
I've watched a couple dozen videos you've presented and am deeply grateful for the information...but I have to play them at 1.5 or faster because you're just too friendly and chatty. I just bought a neglected 23 foot, 30 year-old Cuddy Cabin and I don't know what I would do without your videos.
Thanks for the video. I've never used epoxy for the simple reason that I've been told (over and over) that it is not compatible with a lot of other products - like gelcoat? If this is true, how do you address the gelcoat at the end?
Just to be sure, I have to: - sand down holes - lay mixed epoxy + hardener - lay glass - more mixed epoxy - let dry, then sand down - gel coat ? Thank you for making these videos
Andy, I started following you when you posted a video on buffing out oxidation. Your product suggestion and comments were spot on for my project so thank you. I have a question I thought I would ask you. I’m trying to add a drain on an entrance step to my boat and I wanted your take on how I can make it “flush” or “embedded” into the step so no one hurts a toe entering from the water. I can send photos of the drain I want to use and the location if that would help you with a proper suggestion, but I would love your assistant in my request and even thought it might be an episode that others would like to view as well. Thanks for your consistency in sharing your knowledge. 🤗
Thanks for your videos Andy. Can you do a video on fibre glass tanks. For fresh water and fuel. Can I turn my hollow fibreglass stringers into water and fuel tanks? I’ve got a 25ft Bertram
Really enjoy your videos. Was wondering if you could do a video on boat lengthening and widening? Or maybe on an inboard install on a new or rebuild where things like like motor and out drive have to be put into place without any previous guides or mounts?
Andy, any recommendations on what to place in the backside of a screw hole (before filling) on a highly textured fiberglass? (Painters tape is not and option) I’m think more like silly putty? I have a C-Dory with ~25 screw hole that are in the pilot house. The interior has ~1/8” raised texture. Thanks!
Your videos are most educational, I always look forward to your posts and see how your projects progress. I have a suggestion, can you do a pourable core type transom repair? Would be interesting to see your take on this approach to doing a transom replacement this way. If you need a donor boat I may have one for you ;) Thanks again!
Quick question: How about re-using holes (and getting a good grip)? I stripped a whaler and I'm putting the wood back in the same spot, and I didn't want to waller out the pre-used hole. Thanks Andy!
Man thank god for this channel .. ! I was new to fiberglass and boats and I have learned so much via this. A big thanks and I promise to hit up your Patreon acc. To properly thank you. I do have a question can I re-tap those holes like in a rub rail hole that’s being stripped out?
Well done, as always. I noticed your choice for epoxy. Are you using this new product as a replacement or in addition to the West System? Preparing for a lot of fiberglass repairs on my 1982 11.0 S2
Another great informative video, keep up the great work. Liking the new format. Sticking to one project, step by step progress seems to more informative to see what could possibly go into restoring a boat or at least making esthetic repairs. 👍👍👍
Thanks Andy, as always great video and detailed information, I have the same job to do myself so this was perfect "How Too " do it properly video!!!! happy new year to you,cheers Barry
I have to move my keel winch from the original holes and drill new ones since it's a different size. Can I use the same approach as you show here and do 3 new holes without losing the strength of the deck? The original holes and the new ones are very close to each other
Great courses. I'm wondering why it is worth filling the holes instead of just relying on the glass mat? I have been restoring my 1986 62' Medyacht for 15 years. I am tired of deck leaks, so I removed all the teak planks and glassed over THOUSANDS of screw holes in the decks. I did not bother filling the holes. My guess is that in your example, filling the holes will provide good grip for any future holes made for hardware if coincidentally put in the same spot.
Hi Mate, Thank you very much for very informative videos. I am sure it is quite helpful for many amatures,DIYs and hobbyists... Do you also have any advice for how to reduce the diameter of through hull holes such as from 2" to 1-1/2" on a fibreglass boat. Thank you in advance...
Great video. What if the holes were already filled with thickened epoxy only, cured, but yet to be painted over...would you grind it all down together to add insurance cloth? I had a guy repair a lot of the holes on my boat by just filling them either with epoxy alone or cut out another piece of fiberglass from a throw away part and epoxied it into the hole. I'm afraid I know your answer 🤯
If it were me I would have put a layer of glass overtop of each hole / area but at this point it doesn't sounds like that's an option :-/ It might hold, just think happy thoughts!
Are you taking on new fiber glass hull repair jobs? I need some help with two holes and scratching. Basically is my first boat and when i was learning i did some damage.
I have four 1/4 inch holes that used to hold Dynaplates (so below the waterline). Can I use Interlux's G-flex for this or should I use the West system's epoxy?
I think the holes are from one of those big, chrome air-horn type horns that were popular for some time on smaller boats that wanted to act bigger. haha They seem too far from the rail to be cleats...imho. Regardless, they're gone now! :)
Hey I have a center console 20 ft angler fiberglass boat. Noticed there are some long cracks in the hull under the boat. Wandering what is the best way to go about repairing them.
What about a screw hole below the water line I was thinking about using a cotton bud (q tip) soaked in resin pushed through the hole then pulled back out a little so the bottom mushrooms...then when they are dry cut them off and fill with resin etc . Remember i cant get to the hole from the inside.....what are your thought's...am I a Genius or Crackers ?
Great man i am learning a lot by your videos, i have a very Old tiny Boston WHaler i need to repair an area in the Forward Small Deck area,, the trolling motor came loose ( Previous Owner used screws and some kind of Glue Kit) , Including the gel coat and some polyester fibres nasty shit, now i am working on a Good Solution to fix it, if you have a tip ?? More then welcome ! P.s Even if i dont have to make a repair, just love to see your videos ! I Live in the Netherlands so sorry can not visit your shop :)
Just found your show and am learning a lot! Question: The hand rail end cap on my 1986 Reinell has screws that have stripped out of the boat. The bottom screw went through the boat upper side and I put a stainless through bolt with lock nut on it (It is hidden up above the beer can area). The top screw just goes into fiberglass "meat" and is stripped. Over 40 years, past owners have inserted bigger screws. The tension caused by the curved railing fights against setting the screw. The pop rivet holding the rail to the end cap was broken but I fixed that. What is your suggestion on fixing this? Refer me to the best video you've made for something like this? FYI- I'm a driveway repairer and skill level is basic...can do resin/epoxy. Gel coat skills ok
4 year old video still doing work. This sort of content gives me a great deal of confidence dealing with my novice attempts at canoe repair.
Andy has literally helped me transform my boat...he is the best at explaining what do do which has given me confidence to do things correctly instead of half ass
Can't tell you how much I enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking much of the mystery and fear out of doing fiberglass repairs.
For boats or otherwise, some of the best fiberglass discussion on UA-cam IMO. I'm applying it to automotive work on my own and feel like the rigor and attention to detail here is excellent advice for any application.
Agree and also would highly recommend ua-cam.com/users/LifeOnTheHulls ,professional kayak builder ,very clear instructions,evidence based and attention to detail.
I'm the fourth owner of a carolina skiff..each of the 3 previous owners installed a new depth finder..6 holes with screws in them. I'm in the process of filling now. I use a stick for a depth finder..stick touches= shallow..stick don't touch= deep.
I believe comments help with your ranking from youtube, so I love the information you share. I look forward to your next one.
Glad you decided to continue the show. Always like to see your fiberglass tips and tricks.
Straightforward and solid information, as usual, Andy. One quick thought with cored decks: especially if there’s been any water intrusion into the hole, you’ll want to clean out any old core material before adding new epoxy. I do this with a homemade right angle reamer, basically a nail shaft bent with pliers and inserted into a drill. It works pretty well to open up the space between the fiberglass layers and makes for a stronger, more positive plug.
Great video! I'll be filling holes in my old Mako very soon!
"having the smallest amount of shrinkage"!!! cracked me up 😂 Watched it several times, and your face after you said it.. priceless! Your content is THE BEST
Thanks Andy, really nice how you just pretty much chatting with yourself way of explaining what is going on.
Simple task yet super helpful, thank you for putting this video together.
Thank you. I'm working with an RV - thank you! I admired your Seinfeld-esque discussion of shrinkage.
Welcome back. When I watch your videos I feel guilty that I'm not outside working on my boat!
Great that I found this channel, going to be repairing the roof on my cutaway box van with fiberglass. Thanks for all the great informative videos!
I wish you were my brother boy could I use your help ! So grateful for the time you take to make these videos thanks for your knowledge
Great videos Andy, I am like a sponge, soaking up your experience and well described methods. Thanks.
Thanks Andy.
The 2-1 epoxy is good for lamination, has a higher viscosity that soaks into glass faster and no amine blush. Great videos Andy!
I'm about to rebuild my Vbirth and is looking for a good laminating epoxy. Do you know of a West system that use almost no wax or blushing agent? Andy used a polyester resin for lamination, but I was trying to stay away from polyester.
amine blush is a result of the curing process. the only west system non blushing epoxy is to use the 207 hardener which is not for laminating.
The old adage "he's forgotten more than I know" probably applies. Super useful for some future sailboat projects
Thank-you Andy for all you do and provide.
Thanks once again for the detailed video Andy. I’m amazed daily by other uses outside of boat work.
Great info Andy. For folks that don't like mixing and silica dust and have a small job, we use the pre thickened epoxy (THIXO or Flexpoxy) that comes in a caulk gun cartridge. We can dispense the epoxy right out the end of the mixing tip into the fastener hole, or squirt it into the syringe tube for smaller holes or seams. If there is product left over, we put the cap back on the tube and it is good to go for the next project. Happy New Year! Clark and Skipper
I just put 8 hrs into working on my new to me boat. It was 97 degrees out yesterday and I was baking in my big white tub. Patching screw holes and putting in a T top. Apparently I didn't get enough of boat repairs because here I am😂. I feel better knowing I used epoxy now. I was hoping I didn't screw up.
Takes more time and effort (and materials) to do the job right. Thank you for teaching us the right way. And, even if we can't do our own work, at least this explains what to look for if someone else does the work for us. A good repair won't be cheap but it will last and will be something you can trust well into the future..
I purchased a surfboard repair kit. It had gel coat / hardener as you would expect. I also had a piece of thick cellophane to place over the wet gelcoat to create a smooth surface. It worked really well. Ever think of doing something like that for a large area? it would eliminate all of the wet sanding etc? Almost like a reverse mold. maybe shrink wrap over an entire hull?
Great video as always! Recently I started adding the fillers to the resin pre hardener. I find it mixes easier and doesn't take away from the working time of the pot. Is there any downside to doing it this way that you can think of?
thanks for the vid im rebuilding a fiberglass boat, full of holes
Great video. Andy is the man! I’ll be sharing this on the keywestboatsforum. My cooler seat came loose and I have a ton of holes to fill in the deck and the fiberglass base. No access from underneath the deck. Total Boat has some nice material.
Very much appreciated you taking the time to explain the process through. Great video, thank you!
I use epoxy putty. Reason being I can press it through and fill the hole as opposed to patching over it. It adds some structure back to it. I've also thought of putty, sanding, and then fiberglass. I use JB waterweld
Hello Andy, thanks for all your informative videos. They’re a joy to watch & learn from. I have a couple screw button studs that have ripped out for my canvas enclosure. What should I fill with so I can re secure them down? Thank you for your time!!
Excellent boat repair channel. I know you are based in usa and everything is inches. But only 3 countries or so use it worldwide. Would be nice and easier for the majority if metric system would be used. Thx for videos.
Thanks for the info Andy, the shrinkage part was funny as hell.
I have been watching your videos for learning to do glass work. I was rebuilding my old boat. Can you make a video showing how to drill a whole to make a thru hull fitting for a second bilge pump?
Good enjoyed the little tips on mixing and what types of epoxy to use.
Thanks a ton buddy, been learning a lot from you.
Good video. I stop using measuring cups or the pump. Instead I find the weight ratios of hardener to resin (usually not the same as the volume ratios). Then I make a chart 0.1 to 10.0 This will cover anything you can think of. 1 gram, 1 ounce, 1 pound. Then I put an inexpensive digital gram scale under saran wrap or in a baggie (left open!) This keeps the goop off the scale. I Tare (zero it) to an empty cup. Then by eye I pour in about how much resin I think I need in the cup or one similar. Read my units. Maybe it says 45.6 grams. Look at the chart for 4.5 - 4.6. In that row will be two other numbers the weight of the hardener, and then the total weight of both. Then I'll just pour in hardener until I get close to the total number. If I go over... I can add a little more resin. It's always worked.
If I mix a filler to mount hardware I'll always use a dense filler like WestSystems 406.
Of course if I'm in a hurry and want it to cure quickly I'll follow the direction to let the mixed epoxy sit for a minute or two before adding hardener. If I want it to not kick off for a while (maybe a bunch of holes) I'll add the filler soon after I mix the resin and hardener.
And I always wear a full respirator and nitrile gloves when working with epoxy. It's carcenigenic and hypersensitizing. (Heard of a guy who learned to build boats, never protected his skin or wore a respirator. By the time he was good he couldn't go near epoxy without getting a severe reaction.) The resin is 90% BP-A, meaning it acts on your body like high random doses of estrogen. Epoxy has a nice nutty smell.
Vinegar is a great solvent for epoxy. I've reused chip brushes multiple time because I put them in vinegar before the epoxy kicked off.
And I'd advise anyone with a boat to find a big hole, cut eight to ten layers of glass (smaller and smaller away from the perimeter. Keep them stacked on construction plastic, saturate them all at one. Squeegee the excess epoxy off the stack. Paint the margins of the hole and then lay on the whole stacked patch. It won't be perfectly flat, but with some filler and sanding job done. What this is really effective for is an emergency repair. Give me 30 minutes and a tracing of the hole and I can have that patched and watertight. (The way to use a tracing of the hole is to either draw smaller and smaller lines towards the middle. Then just cut each layer out using the same tracing. Don't get too small.) The reason everyone should do this is once you've done it, you'll always know how to do it and you can solve a serious problem anywhere. Hope this helps
Nice work Andy. You’re always great to watch.
Clean out hole.
Chamfer the hole
Back up with paper tape
Fill with Epoxy resin
Fill any shrinkage when dry
Sand
Apply glass
You rock Andy!
Since you used epoxy you can not use gelcoat correct? But the boat looks like it has gelcoat on it. Sorry, I am confused.
Shrink Factor.....LOL Nice video, working on a boat console, this is great
Thank you for your informative videos.... It helps us other UA-camrs to prepare so that we don't look like complete novices when we get into the issues you are solving so elegantly.... I'll express my gratitude in my videos when I get to the epoxy stuff. Thank you and a happy New year
Do you have a video showing how to fill old holes in transom? Got a new boat and need to fill those. Thanks!
Hi Andy .... how about filling holes on a vertical surface? Any tips/tricks?
I helped neighbor Fred pick out a boat, an thought, I'd really like to buy it if he every sales! Later he says his hips are so bad, he wants to sell! Now boat sitting in my driveway, but it's got Fred's handiwork in screw holes I need to fix, this is timely for me! Haha! I did enjoy, but grinding, filler, glass, more thin epoxy, let dry over night, additional steps tomorrow! I'm thinking epoxy an if needed repair epoxy in ten years take 5 minutes each for 10 minutes for 2 repairs in ten+ years, haha!
Thanks for the help.
You need to do one on how to repair screw holes that you can use again and will hold ? Thanks for your video’s
I love your videos!
Is there a follow up to this video that shows how to finish the patches? I was thinking gel coat but another of your videos said no gel coat with epoxy. Any help?
Helpful and timely. Thank you!!!
just a few minor tipps:
- use nitrile gloves (developing a sensitivity is directly related to exposure time - plus cleanup is a lot easier)
- for holes as big as they were for the front cleats I would start with a patch on the bottom and once cured then fill with the thickened epoxy from the top and the top patch.
- with epoxy always use a release fabric if possible. All amin blush will be gone with the fabric and the rough surface can directly take subsequent layers without sanding or if sanding is needed, it is a lot easier to knock down.
- when pumping 3 strokes of epoxy, don't pump AAABBB but ABABAB. If anything happens (running out of component, phone rings, remembering to put on gloves, etc.) you won't ever get mixed up.
- I always strain my silica to get rid of the lumps that are a PITA to mix.
If you are that good get your own channel.
Thanks Andy,what about filling screw holes in the timber fender outside of the glass which are no longer required?
I have to thank you very very much. I need to fill some holes in my boat soon and i thank you for the information. Andy your videos are so awesome. A+
I've watched a couple dozen videos you've presented and am deeply grateful for the information...but I have to play them at 1.5 or faster because you're just too friendly and chatty. I just bought a neglected 23 foot, 30 year-old Cuddy Cabin and I don't know what I would do without your videos.
Thanks for the video, can you go over the epoxy patches later with gelcoat?
Thanks for the video. I've never used epoxy for the simple reason that I've been told (over and over) that it is not compatible with a lot of other products - like gelcoat? If this is true, how do you address the gelcoat at the end?
Love your videos. Any way you could talk about fiberglass restoration? Especially to an older boat that has the no slip texture from the manufacturer?
Thanks so much. Great info.
Very informative video! Some awesome top tips there buddy, Thankyou
Just to be sure, I have to:
- sand down holes
- lay mixed epoxy + hardener
- lay glass
- more mixed epoxy
- let dry, then sand down
- gel coat
?
Thank you for making these videos
missed boring out the old holes, taping off the back of the hole(if you can, if you can't make some thicken resin).
Andy, I started following you when you posted a video on buffing out oxidation. Your product suggestion and comments were spot on for my project so thank you. I have a question I thought I would ask you. I’m trying to add a drain on an entrance step to my boat and I wanted your take on how I can make it “flush” or “embedded” into the step so no one hurts a toe entering from the water. I can send photos of the drain I want to use and the location if that would help you with a proper suggestion, but I would love your assistant in my request and even thought it might be an episode that others would like to view as well. Thanks for your consistency in sharing your knowledge. 🤗
Thanks for your videos Andy. Can you do a video on fibre glass tanks. For fresh water and fuel. Can I turn my hollow fibreglass stringers into water and fuel tanks? I’ve got a 25ft Bertram
Looking good Andy, & Happy New Year
good advice as usual
great advice
Digging the spyderco btw 👍
Really enjoy your videos. Was wondering if you could do a video on boat lengthening and widening? Or maybe on an inboard install on a new or rebuild where things like like motor and out drive have to be put into place without any previous guides or mounts?
Andy, any recommendations on what to place in the backside of a screw hole (before filling) on a highly textured fiberglass? (Painters tape is not and option) I’m think more like silly putty? I have a C-Dory with ~25 screw hole that are in the pilot house. The interior has ~1/8” raised texture. Thanks!
Your videos are most educational, I always look forward to your posts and see how your projects progress. I have a suggestion, can you do a pourable core type transom repair? Would be interesting to see your take on this approach to doing a transom replacement this way. If you need a donor boat I may have one for you ;) Thanks again!
Great Video! Thanks
I was curious if it was ever necessary to glass on the inside too perhaps in larger hole repairs?
Quick question: How about re-using holes (and getting a good grip)? I stripped a whaler and I'm putting the wood back in the same spot, and I didn't want to waller out the pre-used hole. Thanks Andy!
How did it go? I'm about to try something similar.
After sanded, would you finish with fairing? Then gel coat?
Great Andy! Learn so much from you.
Man thank god for this channel .. !
I was new to fiberglass and boats and I have learned so much via this. A big thanks and I promise to hit up your Patreon acc. To properly thank you.
I do have a question can I re-tap those holes like in a rub rail hole that’s being stripped out?
Hi Michael, yes absolutely! Just be sure to allow the epoxy to fully cure before tapping ;-) Thank you!
Well done, as always. I noticed your choice for epoxy. Are you using this new product as a replacement or in addition to the West System? Preparing for a lot of fiberglass repairs on my 1982 11.0 S2
thanks again Andy as always Solid information
Another great informative video, keep up the great work. Liking the new format. Sticking to one project, step by step progress seems to more informative to see what could possibly go into restoring a boat or at least making esthetic repairs. 👍👍👍
Thanks Andy, as always great video and detailed information, I have the same job to do myself so this was perfect "How Too " do it properly video!!!! happy new year to you,cheers Barry
I have to move my keel winch from the original holes and drill new ones since it's a different size. Can I use the same approach as you show here and do 3 new holes without losing the strength of the deck? The original holes and the new ones are very close to each other
Great courses. I'm wondering why it is worth filling the holes instead of just relying on the glass mat? I have been restoring my 1986 62' Medyacht for 15 years. I am tired of deck leaks, so I removed all the teak planks and glassed over THOUSANDS of screw holes in the decks. I did not bother filling the holes. My guess is that in your example, filling the holes will provide good grip for any future holes made for hardware if coincidentally put in the same spot.
any tips for plugging under a hole for a fill along the gunwale?
Thanks man , your amazing
Hi Mate, Thank you very much for very informative videos. I am sure it is quite helpful for many amatures,DIYs and hobbyists...
Do you also have any advice for how to reduce the diameter of through hull holes such as from 2" to 1-1/2" on a fibreglass boat.
Thank you in advance...
Great video. What if the holes were already filled with thickened epoxy only, cured, but yet to be painted over...would you grind it all down together to add insurance cloth? I had a guy repair a lot of the holes on my boat by just filling them either with epoxy alone or cut out another piece of fiberglass from a throw away part and epoxied it into the hole.
I'm afraid I know your answer 🤯
If it were me I would have put a layer of glass overtop of each hole / area but at this point it doesn't sounds like that's an option :-/ It might hold, just think happy thoughts!
That's great info!
Are you taking on new fiber glass hull repair jobs? I need some help with two holes and scratching. Basically is my first boat and when i was learning i did some damage.
Thanks Andy for a fantastic show. My wonder is how you do if you cant reach the backside of the hole with a tape?
Good info ANDY
Thanks
I have four 1/4 inch holes that used to hold Dynaplates (so below the waterline). Can I use Interlux's G-flex for this or should I use the West system's epoxy?
I think the holes are from one of those big, chrome air-horn type horns that were popular for some time on smaller boats that wanted to act bigger. haha They seem too far from the rail to be cleats...imho. Regardless, they're gone now! :)
Good video!!!
Hey I have a center console 20 ft angler fiberglass boat. Noticed there are some long cracks in the hull under the boat. Wandering what is the best way to go about repairing them.
What about a screw hole below the water line I was thinking about using a cotton bud (q tip) soaked in resin pushed through the hole then pulled back out a little so the bottom mushrooms...then when they are dry cut them off and fill with resin etc . Remember i cant get to the hole from the inside.....what are your thought's...am I a Genius or Crackers ?
Great man i am learning a lot by your videos, i have a very Old tiny Boston WHaler i need to repair an area in the Forward Small Deck area,, the trolling motor came loose ( Previous Owner used screws and some kind of Glue Kit) , Including the gel coat and some polyester fibres nasty shit, now i am working on a Good Solution to fix it, if you have a tip ?? More then welcome ! P.s Even if i dont have to make a repair, just love to see your videos ! I Live in the Netherlands so sorry can not visit your shop :)
I didn’t expect to laugh at a DIY repair video lol. Love the content
Great video!
Just found your show and am learning a lot! Question: The hand rail end cap on my 1986 Reinell has screws that have stripped out of the boat. The bottom screw went through the boat upper side and I put a stainless through bolt with lock nut on it (It is hidden up above the beer can area). The top screw just goes into fiberglass "meat" and is stripped. Over 40 years, past owners have inserted bigger screws. The tension caused by the curved railing fights against setting the screw. The pop rivet holding the rail to the end cap was broken but I fixed that.
What is your suggestion on fixing this? Refer me to the best video you've made for something like this? FYI- I'm a driveway repairer and skill level is basic...can do resin/epoxy. Gel coat skills ok
I like mads from sail life’s idea of using the baking piping bag for filling the epoxy into holes