I have not unboxed my 3D printer, yet, but I bought a yearly subscription to Lychee slicer because of these awesome beginner to advanced tutorial videos.
This is gold, thank you for putting this together. It definitely mirrors my own findings printing a load of different resins, and I'll definitely be referring folks to this one!
Despite how long I have been printing, like you said in the beginning of the video, I learned something. For resin printing, I use exclusively Anycubic machines. And you explaining, in such wonderful detail, each and every setting, was a great help. Some I know and understood, some I didn't and had questions about, or was just plain confused. Because of severe head traumas via many concussions, I have trouble with comprehension & retaining information sometimes. Thank you very much for this very informative video. I use Lychee to do all my slicing, then save and move the models to Anycubic for printing. Cannot wait to try adjusting my settings to see what improvements I get. And I love learning your support settings too. Although, when I tried customizing to make a "pillar" support, it never saves. Go figure. I so want to get better at doing my own supporting. In those videos you do go to fast!
I'm very happy to hear this, I attempted to make it easy to understand. This topic in my head feels easy to explain but as I talk, I realize it's more complex to each then I think.
@@J3DTech Your knowledge really does help. I know you have done supports, but you do go fast, like no coffee before hand okay lol. Like I mentioned, I tried making my own pillar support like you showed, but the slicer wouldn't save it for some reason. Don't know what I was doing wrong. When I print, I have been a slave to using pre-supported models, even though I have done many myself. But tip size just gets me so much. That damage from or fail for not enough. I seem to not ever find that sweet spot. I know this isn't the place, but Loot Studios has a prop I began printing, "Mask of Desires." It is in 5 parts or so. I got the biggest with the handle (pre-supported), beautiful print. Moved to other parts, all failed with same pre-supports and settings. Just weird stuff. Failed to hold the plate, failed supports (Loot's) weird fanning of layers. Goofy. But the first part printed fine. Same resin, same settings, same room temp (my living room), again, weird.
Well done, on the couple of times it was a bit too fast, its easy to rewind and listen again. No issues. I love your videos, they have been so helpful. I think the vids are a nice balance between new and seasoned users.
Very good video, Derek. I thought the pace was a bit slower than others you've done, which I appreciated greatly. Most of these settings have been a mystery to me until I encountered your videos. Thanks!
I've seen that more then a few people have requested a slower pace. I'm going to try to keep to this more in future vidoes as well. Just need to keep that balance of fast enough to keep interst but not too fast that I loose everyone.
Incredibly helpful. Just starting my journey. Have done a dozen print runs so far, a few failures, but t least now i understand what the settings mean. thanks for sharing.
I've never seen a software teaching video that tackles a page full of parameters with such clarity. I sure wish I'd had something similar when I bought my first filament printer 10 years ago. Learning which parameter to tweak and why is invaluable when things go wrong. Thank you Derek for a fantastically clear and concise presentation.
I have a Anycubic Photon M3 Max and am having consistent problem with parts not staying attached to the supports. I mainly make medium to large functional parts at 0.1 mm layer height. This even happens with a 2” dia tube with a 0.1” wall thickness so it’s not an issue with hollowing out the part or otherwise a weight issue. I was hoping these settings would solve my issue. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help!
I think the pace of these videos is good, and you're doing a good job of marking each segment with what is covered since these are more "deep dive" than the average 3D printing video. One topic I'd love to see you expand upon if you've done lots of testing with it is layer height for clear resins, and\or transparent & translucent. In the primary written guide, there is a mention that printing at a higher layer height might be better for clears, even if it is counter intuitive. Everyone is so geared towards the smallest layer possible, but what about the opposite? When is it better to print in a larger layer? Anecdotally, when Phrozen had "speed resin" I was using a lot of it for my Mega 8K and part of the reason it printed so fast is because the recommended layer height was 1 to 1.5 μm. For larger things like cosplay pieces and parts this boost in time at the loss of detail was a good tradeoff. For a mini or detailed statue you would not want to go that high. Otherwise, thanks for the in-depth analysis stuff that you do.
Absoutly, Thomas often will print at these higher layer thicknesses for some of his life sized projects. I'm often printing very high detail models. But I've worked with users printing abosutly everything. Clear at a thicker resin really does a better job at keeping the Z thickness more accurate at like you said a small or large cost to detail... depending.
Great video, thank you for detailing of Saturn 4 ultra) can you investigate an issue with "bubbles"on top layers? Searched around all internet and didn't found a solution.
Its a hard one, my ongoing theory is that it's warm spot on the release film. So it will pull away from the LCD and allow an air bubble to get trapped inbetween the LCD and film. This will cause the hole in the print.
I loved the video and there was a lot of great info. I am new to resin 3D printing and decided to go with Lychee myself. Got the full package as well. I went with the Saturn 4 Ultra. I'm glad you touched a little bit on that one. It was all good info which will help me in the future as I get more experienced. Thanks.
Very informative in regard to the systems being based of branded motherboards and how the motherboards work differently in regard to the actual settings for the slicing. Your thoughts on resin temperature in regard to viscosity and its importance to having just one resin profile per brand/type of resin.
This video was very interesting. As an advanced user, using my printers everyday as it's my job I mean, it helped me understand several points more in depth. no too fast or anything for me, you did good. Just do more!
Some said the "wait before retract" is useful when the you have shallow and viscous resin and you have to wait for the resin to flow back to cover the film before retracting. Also worth noting that many recent printers put load cell (the force sensor) in the Z arm which makes them very flexible and require longer rest time to compensate. Try pulling out the plastic sleeve from the S4U's Z arm and be surprised by how thin the structure actually is.
Brand new user. I've got my first resin printer (I've had several FDM printers for years), but have put resin in it yet. The pace was good. I stopped the video several times to take notes. But now I think I've got a handle on it. I'll load a resin and slice one of the calibration models now that I somewhat understand what all the parameters are about.
I have only been resin printing for about a month now. I learned to use Chitubox with my GK2. I tried using Lychee but was totally confused. This video helped me understand the difference between the two. I will give Lychee a try on my next print. Thank you for helping us dummies! 🤣
Amazing video. I am a bit confused about your comment about using AA with .goo format. I have a Saturn 3, does that mean I cannot use AA at all? Or will it print if I give it a .ctb file? Would appreciate your help!
I would really like to hear about different settings for different types of film on the same printers. For example, the elegoo saturn 3 ultra comes with an incredibly expensive ACF film, which deteriorates very quickly, as a result you need to change it almost every 10 liters, and many people want to switch to nFEP / PFA films. And the very fact that ultra 4 does not use acf tells us that elegoo themselves did not particularly like its results) Or, on the contrary, wealthy owners of Saturn 3 non-ultra want to speed up work and install acf, and also have a need to change print settings...
Hi Derek, do you think using lower light intensity can reduce blooming for better dimensional accuracy, given there's already sufficient light-off delay? I could never get Phrozen Snow Grey 8K resin to have good support strength while maintaining dimensional accuracy, I wonder if a lower exposure can be the magic pill, short of using contour compensation.
So I updated Lychee over the weekend and was about to start a big printing project. When the update completed I was alerted that there was a cloud configuration for my printer that was different from my local profile. It didn’t tell me what was different. I took the leap and applied it. Only then did I discover that the only difference was the actual name of the printer. The cloud version eliminated all of my resin profiles. I get to start completely from scratch. My big project is now on hold until I can find the time to print a ton of test prints.
In the slicer there is a link "Help for the Two Stage Motion Control / CTB V4 resin profile parameters". The link goes to mango and is broken currently. "This page doesn't seem to exist."
I don't really see anyone talk about setting the Wait Before Print time on the S4U. By default it's set to 1s. Is it really worth it to increase this to 2s or 3s, and would that require running calibration again for the resin I'm using? I have mostly successful prints at 1s, but do still occasionally see some failures on seemingly well supported models, and wondering if this would help increase success even further or just affect the model detail, which is already very good. (Currently using Elegoo ABS-like 3.0 resin, which is a bit more fluid than most ABS-likes I've used before.)
I've now ran boxes as some calibration prints and am getting a confusing result which I can't find a clear answer to online. At 1.60s the boxes are accurate and I get all but the 1 of the smallest pillars, however at 1.55s I get fewer pillars (which makes sense), but at anything above 1.60s I get fewer pillars than the lower exposures, which according to the info I've read should not be the case. The dimensional accuracy of say 1.65s or 1.7s is pretty much the same as 1.6s, yet fewer pillars. Is this to be expected or is something strange going on? Temperature has been consistent the entire time.
Is there a way to delete resin "Thicknesses"? I have like 20 as as I've dialed in settings. Also, is there a way to export resin profiles in a plain text-ish format like JSON instead of LYR? I have a folder full of screenshots of my steps of resin tuning. It hurts versus prusaslicer's ability to easily diff print profiles.
J3D I appreciate your effort and it's hard to be critical of genuine effort, but the resin profile UI is painful to use. The profile system would be a lot better if it was backed by plain text files with some basic configuration inheritance - allowing those who care to escape the UI and version control things with git or whatever.
@@pbkobold Just above your resin profiles, there is "Resin - Print Settings" and a gray button Mange, does this UI help? That said, I agree I have a LOT of profiles and a way for people to manage them would be nice. We are a very small group making it a lower priority but it's still on the list.
@@J3DTech I cannot find a "Manage" button anywhere. 😅 On macOS, Lychee version 7.2.0. I'll follow up with Lychee support after Christmas if there is supposed to be a way to delete Thickness profiles. Thank you for your extensive efforts to explain this stuff. The J3D guide is an amazing resource.
Just to try your setting on my Creality Mage I put in exact copy of your settings and print time was 9 hours 39 minuets, compare to basic settings resin I am using SUnlu basic is 7 hours 33 seconds. I seen no difference in print quality only difference was the 2 hours 33 minuets longer it took. Not sure why your settings would take longer seems they would speed up the time.
I got a file error on my anycubic X2 with lychee and have to stop printing with you. And I hate it. Do you know if there is any oficial solución for this?
I have not unboxed my 3D printer, yet, but I bought a yearly subscription to Lychee slicer because of these awesome beginner to advanced tutorial videos.
Thanks so much!
This was amazing and explained things so well. Really appreciated.
This is gold, thank you for putting this together. It definitely mirrors my own findings printing a load of different resins, and I'll definitely be referring folks to this one!
Thanks so much!
Okay. This is pure gold and would have saved me a lot of headache over the last year or two. Better late than never...
Thanks so much! Glad it's helpful!
Despite how long I have been printing, like you said in the beginning of the video, I learned something. For resin printing, I use exclusively Anycubic machines. And you explaining, in such wonderful detail, each and every setting, was a great help. Some I know and understood, some I didn't and had questions about, or was just plain confused. Because of severe head traumas via many concussions, I have trouble with comprehension & retaining information sometimes. Thank you very much for this very informative video. I use Lychee to do all my slicing, then save and move the models to Anycubic for printing. Cannot wait to try adjusting my settings to see what improvements I get. And I love learning your support settings too. Although, when I tried customizing to make a "pillar" support, it never saves. Go figure. I so want to get better at doing my own supporting. In those videos you do go to fast!
I'm very happy to hear this, I attempted to make it easy to understand. This topic in my head feels easy to explain but as I talk, I realize it's more complex to each then I think.
@@J3DTech Your knowledge really does help. I know you have done supports, but you do go fast, like no coffee before hand okay lol. Like I mentioned, I tried making my own pillar support like you showed, but the slicer wouldn't save it for some reason. Don't know what I was doing wrong. When I print, I have been a slave to using pre-supported models, even though I have done many myself. But tip size just gets me so much. That damage from or fail for not enough. I seem to not ever find that sweet spot. I know this isn't the place, but Loot Studios has a prop I began printing, "Mask of Desires." It is in 5 parts or so. I got the biggest with the handle (pre-supported), beautiful print. Moved to other parts, all failed with same pre-supports and settings. Just weird stuff. Failed to hold the plate, failed supports (Loot's) weird fanning of layers. Goofy. But the first part printed fine. Same resin, same settings, same room temp (my living room), again, weird.
Thanks for your comment!
Well done, on the couple of times it was a bit too fast, its easy to rewind and listen again. No issues. I love your videos, they have been so helpful. I think the vids are a nice balance between new and seasoned users.
Thanks for your feedback! :D
Very good video, Derek. I thought the pace was a bit slower than others you've done, which I appreciated greatly. Most of these settings have been a mystery to me until I encountered your videos. Thanks!
I've seen that more then a few people have requested a slower pace. I'm going to try to keep to this more in future vidoes as well. Just need to keep that balance of fast enough to keep interst but not too fast that I loose everyone.
Thanks for your comment :D
Incredibly helpful. Just starting my journey. Have done a dozen print runs so far, a few failures, but t least now i understand what the settings mean. thanks for sharing.
Don't hesitate to join us on discord where our community and our team including Derek is always happy to help! :D discord.gg/NGDDTgY
I've never seen a software teaching video that tackles a page full of parameters with such clarity. I sure wish I'd had something similar when I bought my first filament printer 10 years ago. Learning which parameter to tweak and why is invaluable when things go wrong. Thank you Derek for a fantastically clear and concise presentation.
Thanks so much for your comment! :D
Thanks you so much! I have been printing for years and as you say there is always new things to learn! Excellent work.
Thanks for your comment! :D
Great video - well paced and informative. Many thanks
Thanks for your comment!
Absolutely great tutorial
Thanks so much!
Awesome and thank you very much! Excellent explanation of these settings.
Thanks for your comment!
I have a Anycubic Photon M3 Max and am having consistent problem with parts not staying attached to the supports. I mainly make medium to large functional parts at 0.1 mm layer height. This even happens with a 2” dia tube with a 0.1” wall thickness so it’s not an issue with hollowing out the part or otherwise a weight issue. I was hoping these settings would solve my issue. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help!
I think the pace of these videos is good, and you're doing a good job of marking each segment with what is covered since these are more "deep dive" than the average 3D printing video. One topic I'd love to see you expand upon if you've done lots of testing with it is layer height for clear resins, and\or transparent & translucent. In the primary written guide, there is a mention that printing at a higher layer height might be better for clears, even if it is counter intuitive. Everyone is so geared towards the smallest layer possible, but what about the opposite? When is it better to print in a larger layer? Anecdotally, when Phrozen had "speed resin" I was using a lot of it for my Mega 8K and part of the reason it printed so fast is because the recommended layer height was 1 to 1.5 μm. For larger things like cosplay pieces and parts this boost in time at the loss of detail was a good tradeoff. For a mini or detailed statue you would not want to go that high. Otherwise, thanks for the in-depth analysis stuff that you do.
Absoutly, Thomas often will print at these higher layer thicknesses for some of his life sized projects. I'm often printing very high detail models.
But I've worked with users printing abosutly everything. Clear at a thicker resin really does a better job at keeping the Z thickness more accurate at like you said a small or large cost to detail... depending.
This man has a looooot of resin !
And he knows a looooot about it !
@@TheChaussonkiwi lol, stay away from my loot! 👾
He does 🤣
Great video, thank you for detailing of Saturn 4 ultra) can you investigate an issue with "bubbles"on top layers? Searched around all internet and didn't found a solution.
Its a hard one, my ongoing theory is that it's warm spot on the release film. So it will pull away from the LCD and allow an air bubble to get trapped inbetween the LCD and film. This will cause the hole in the print.
I loved the video and there was a lot of great info. I am new to resin 3D printing and decided to go with Lychee myself. Got the full package as well. I went with the Saturn 4 Ultra. I'm glad you touched a little bit on that one. It was all good info which will help me in the future as I get more experienced. Thanks.
Thanks so much! You can join us on discord discord.gg/NGDDTgY our team and community will be happy to help in case of failure :D
Great video and well explained! Thank you!
You're welcome!
This came at the best time, printer arrived yesterday (GK3 Ultra) and I'm moving from FDM to resin.
Time to calibrate and print! Enjoy your GK3! :D
Very informative in regard to the systems being based of branded motherboards and how the motherboards work differently in regard to the actual settings for the slicing. Your thoughts on resin temperature in regard to viscosity and its importance to having just one resin profile per brand/type of resin.
Thanks for your comment!
Fantastic video, thanks!
Thanks!
Still watching, but amazing stuff. Thank you!
Thank you!
Thanks! :D
This video was very interesting. As an advanced user, using my printers everyday as it's my job I mean, it helped me understand several points more in depth. no too fast or anything for me, you did good. Just do more!
Thanks so much!
Very useful Video. Thank you.
Thanks for your comment!
Always the best, and you're still learning ;)
There is sooooo much I don't know.
Thanks!
Some said the "wait before retract" is useful when the you have shallow and viscous resin and you have to wait for the resin to flow back to cover the film before retracting.
Also worth noting that many recent printers put load cell (the force sensor) in the Z arm which makes them very flexible and require longer rest time to compensate. Try pulling out the plastic sleeve from the S4U's Z arm and be surprised by how thin the structure actually is.
Brand new user. I've got my first resin printer (I've had several FDM printers for years), but have put resin in it yet. The pace was good. I stopped the video several times to take notes. But now I think I've got a handle on it. I'll load a resin and slice one of the calibration models now that I somewhat understand what all the parameters are about.
Let us know how it went! :D
No, perfect job for explaning how the systems work. Thanks
Thanks for your comment!
I have only been resin printing for about a month now. I learned to use Chitubox with my GK2. I tried using Lychee but was totally confused. This video helped me understand the difference between the two. I will give Lychee a try on my next print. Thank you for helping us dummies! 🤣
If you need any help you can join our discord! :D discord.gg/NGDDTgY
Thank you for this Cristal clear explanations ! In particular about the transition layers settings. I spared you some questions…😉🍻
Thanks for your comment!
Was that a modded build plate when you showed the Saturn 4 ultra? Do you have a tutorial in that?
Not yet but working on it.
Amazing video. I am a bit confused about your comment about using AA with .goo format. I have a Saturn 3, does that mean I cannot use AA at all? Or will it print if I give it a .ctb file? Would appreciate your help!
The Saturn 3 can be sliced to use .goo and .ctb
@ Thank you so much, I did not realize this
Thank you. I use the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra.
S4 0 issues S4U wasted over 10L worth of resins now just can not get it printing , going to try that 3 sec light off setting now
Thanks! Hope you enjoy your S4U :D
I would really like to hear about different settings for different types of film on the same printers. For example, the elegoo saturn 3 ultra comes with an incredibly expensive ACF film, which deteriorates very quickly, as a result you need to change it almost every 10 liters, and many people want to switch to nFEP / PFA films. And the very fact that ultra 4 does not use acf tells us that elegoo themselves did not particularly like its results)
Or, on the contrary, wealthy owners of Saturn 3 non-ultra want to speed up work and install acf, and also have a need to change print settings...
A have 3 ultra and 4 ultra. In my point of view all resin need calibration for all new stuff and new release film is not exception )
IMOP the speed gain from ACF does not give enough of a benifit over the drawbacks.
I'm new to resin 3d printing. i have a saturn 4 ultra, would you recommend using a screen protector on the lcd screen?
Great topic. I learned a few things. But I wonder how color resins are affected. I seem to have more failures with those than just gray.
Thanks! Yeah each resin is really different and needs its own profiles :)
so ditch 25um ? sunlu standard ? I was using that because its about the x/y resolution range S4U @14:50 but it seems to ignore all those settings , ?
@@christopherstaples4222 Your call but I don't think you will see much difference between 25um and 30um
Hi Derek, do you think using lower light intensity can reduce blooming for better dimensional accuracy, given there's already sufficient light-off delay?
I could never get Phrozen Snow Grey 8K resin to have good support strength while maintaining dimensional accuracy, I wonder if a lower exposure can be the magic pill, short of using contour compensation.
So I updated Lychee over the weekend and was about to start a big printing project. When the update completed I was alerted that there was a cloud configuration for my printer that was different from my local profile. It didn’t tell me what was different. I took the leap and applied it. Only then did I discover that the only difference was the actual name of the printer. The cloud version eliminated all of my resin profiles. I get to start completely from scratch.
My big project is now on hold until I can find the time to print a ton of test prints.
You have a backup save! Go to preferences, Backup Saves and you should be able to load your profiles!
YES! Thank you!
Tysm!
You're welcome :D
In the slicer there is a link "Help for the Two Stage Motion Control / CTB V4 resin profile parameters". The link goes to mango and is broken currently. "This page doesn't seem to exist."
Thanks for reporting it we will look into it! :)
I don't really see anyone talk about setting the Wait Before Print time on the S4U. By default it's set to 1s. Is it really worth it to increase this to 2s or 3s, and would that require running calibration again for the resin I'm using? I have mostly successful prints at 1s, but do still occasionally see some failures on seemingly well supported models, and wondering if this would help increase success even further or just affect the model detail, which is already very good. (Currently using Elegoo ABS-like 3.0 resin, which is a bit more fluid than most ABS-likes I've used before.)
I've now ran boxes as some calibration prints and am getting a confusing result which I can't find a clear answer to online. At 1.60s the boxes are accurate and I get all but the 1 of the smallest pillars, however at 1.55s I get fewer pillars (which makes sense), but at anything above 1.60s I get fewer pillars than the lower exposures, which according to the info I've read should not be the case. The dimensional accuracy of say 1.65s or 1.7s is pretty much the same as 1.6s, yet fewer pillars. Is this to be expected or is something strange going on? Temperature has been consistent the entire time.
Is there a way to delete resin "Thicknesses"? I have like 20 as as I've dialed in settings. Also, is there a way to export resin profiles in a plain text-ish format like JSON instead of LYR? I have a folder full of screenshots of my steps of resin tuning. It hurts versus prusaslicer's ability to easily diff print profiles.
J3D I appreciate your effort and it's hard to be critical of genuine effort, but the resin profile UI is painful to use. The profile system would be a lot better if it was backed by plain text files with some basic configuration inheritance - allowing those who care to escape the UI and version control things with git or whatever.
@@pbkobold Just above your resin profiles, there is "Resin - Print Settings" and a gray button Mange, does this UI help?
That said, I agree I have a LOT of profiles and a way for people to manage them would be nice. We are a very small group making it a lower priority but it's still on the list.
@@J3DTech I cannot find a "Manage" button anywhere. 😅 On macOS, Lychee version 7.2.0. I'll follow up with Lychee support after Christmas if there is supposed to be a way to delete Thickness profiles.
Thank you for your extensive efforts to explain this stuff. The J3D guide is an amazing resource.
Just to try your setting on my Creality Mage I put in exact copy of your settings and print time was 9 hours 39 minuets, compare to basic settings resin I am using SUnlu basic is 7 hours 33 seconds. I seen no difference in print quality only difference was the 2 hours 33 minuets longer it took. Not sure why your settings would take longer seems they would speed up the time.
I got a file error on my anycubic X2 with lychee and have to stop printing with you. And I hate it. Do you know if there is any oficial solución for this?
Hi, we're investigating the issue, could you send a ticket to our support team? This will help us thanks! :) lychee.co/contact
"Stop telling Derek he's handsome"
Ok, I won't.
🤣🤣🤣
Please make a video for resins that has no settings on specific printer and we want to know how to start it.
Ive been working on a MASSIVE resin guide that will have all this data and a LOT more.
Will do!
Pleeeease, i want to buy Yearly Pro Subscription, can I have a discount code????
Hi, we do not have a promotion ongoing at the moment, follow us to know when a discount drop! :D