Welp, I've had a print in my printer for 2 hours. I spent so long slowly moving the right side bar to reveal bits of the inside so I could drop support pillars. Didn't know about the external view toggle, didn't know about generating supports exclusively on the inside. This'll save me a bunch of time and headache!
I sort of understood hollowing and used it a lot before this video but now it's a whole lot clearer!!! I definitely need to work on my technique. Many thanks!!
I been using lychee for a year now and I learned a few things by watching this. I use to mostly use hole only and only use hole and cap if I had a large hole to plug. I also never really used exterior view but will now. Another thing is interior pillars for islands and overhangs is great. I was using heavy supports but obviously, pillars are much stronger. Thanks for the video.
Very informative. Thank you. Interesting takeaways. I have made it part of my workflow to always use hole only. Not sure why. Maybe I was thinking that was required. Somehow seeing the hole instead of the gray shape made it look real. :) Adding blockers after hollowing. That totally changes my hollowing process. Many times I have undone my hollowing thinking that I had to have the blockers prior to hollowing. I'm eager to get home (flying home from a work trip) and eager to try this out....oh and unbox my GK3 that arrived while I was away. 😊
Nice I got mine today as well! Sadly my cover is cracked. But that's not really a big deal. Time to start testing miahahah! Happy you enjoyed the video and yes keep the holes and hollowing as code for the best results!
Question on the cap, is there an option for a key shape? Let's say for a 4mm diameter ~ 2mm deep hole, have the top 1mm be a circle, and the bottom be an inner square. That way it's easier to line up and plug. There is no reason a hole/cap has to only be circular. Even a slight cone shape would be helpful, so the plug can't fall into your model. (Man would that be annoying.) Thanks for another great video!
I want to print some models with solids, but I have to use thicker supports for these models. Should we make support choices according to the weight of the print that will be printed? If so, how can we do this? But if not, what should I consider when using light-med-heavy supports?Could you also write down the support values you used?
Great tutorial! One question about filling suction cups with blockers.. does it really help? I feel a suction cup would have about the same resistance as a full shape.
Hollowing with the 2D method and then applying holes to prevent suction cups and allow for resin draining can often be impossible to avoid cutting into the internal lattice, and you end up with a truncated bit of lattice that is unsupported. Is there any solution to these bits of unsupported lattice created by holes?
The bigger the holes the better, but in certain cases if you can't put a big one, a small one is still helping, also it's easier for cleaning later on and the holes won't be as noticeable once the print is on the shelf :)
@@alfredanil Nope, the voids still need to be filled with air and resin. If anything if you Print towards the front of the printer. The vat is dropping at a much faster rate than the back and it can actually dramatically increase the suction and peeling Force.
@alfredanil This is a very different printer with a full glass lense system and temperature monitoring on every single LED and of a single LED goes out of spec. They replace the entire lighting unit. They also use a textured LCD to essentially give you the same effect as ACF film, but without having the drawbacks of a textured release film. Their LCD technology is also proprietary using a different type of Crystal that doesn't get damaged with the UV light, so it lasts the life of the machine. Because of all this there's a lot they can do we can't on these other printers making it really apples to oranges.
@@J3DTech Well, I don't think the LCD would last the life of the machine, the spec sheet clearly mentions. Light Processing Unit Estimated Lifetime : 600k - 1.9M layers, depending on material and layer height Resin Tank Estimated Life : 75,000+ layers For example: approximately 1,300 prints using average height models (87 mm tall) and 100 µm layer height.
I don’t like the fact that you can’t use cap+hole on models from the library. The money paid for that subscription is something that should be available. I would like to see this in the future and I’m sure other subscribers would agree.
These are amazing...I'd love it if you stop doing the whole "not going to do it here..I don't have enough time" thing on so many videos. I'd watch a 1h version of this if it means my prints come out clean.
These videos are excellent learning sources, please do more!
Thanks! Will do! One every weeek
Welp, I've had a print in my printer for 2 hours. I spent so long slowly moving the right side bar to reveal bits of the inside so I could drop support pillars. Didn't know about the external view toggle, didn't know about generating supports exclusively on the inside. This'll save me a bunch of time and headache!
Always happy to help and saves you time! Thanks for your comment!
I sort of understood hollowing and used it a lot before this video but now it's a whole lot clearer!!! I definitely need to work on my technique. Many thanks!!
You're welcome! :D
I been using lychee for a year now and I learned a few things by watching this. I use to mostly use hole only and only use hole and cap if I had a large hole to plug. I also never really used exterior view but will now. Another thing is interior pillars for islands and overhangs is great. I was using heavy supports but obviously, pillars are much stronger. Thanks for the video.
Anytime! Thank you for watching and your comment!
Same
Thanks for your comment!
Very informative. Thank you. Interesting takeaways.
I have made it part of my workflow to always use hole only. Not sure why. Maybe I was thinking that was required. Somehow seeing the hole instead of the gray shape made it look real. :)
Adding blockers after hollowing. That totally changes my hollowing process. Many times I have undone my hollowing thinking that I had to have the blockers prior to hollowing.
I'm eager to get home (flying home from a work trip) and eager to try this out....oh and unbox my GK3 that arrived while I was away. 😊
Nice I got mine today as well!
Sadly my cover is cracked. But that's not really a big deal. Time to start testing miahahah!
Happy you enjoyed the video and yes keep the holes and hollowing as code for the best results!
Is there a rule of thumb for what size object you should consider hollowing out?
Question on the cap, is there an option for a key shape? Let's say for a 4mm diameter ~ 2mm deep hole, have the top 1mm be a circle, and the bottom be an inner square. That way it's easier to line up and plug. There is no reason a hole/cap has to only be circular. Even a slight cone shape would be helpful, so the plug can't fall into your model. (Man would that be annoying.) Thanks for another great video!
That's not possible at the moment :) Thanks for your comment!
I want to print some models with solids, but I have to use thicker supports for these models. Should we make support choices according to the weight of the print that will be printed? If so, how can we do this? But if not, what should I consider when using light-med-heavy supports?Could you also write down the support values you used?
Also this keyboard is crazy!
Thanks is the Kiiboom 81
Great tutorial!
One question about filling suction cups with blockers.. does it really help?
I feel a suction cup would have about the same resistance as a full shape.
@@Gaulwa Not even close suction cups have a massive amount more.
Hollowing with the 2D method and then applying holes to prevent suction cups and allow for resin draining can often be impossible to avoid cutting into the internal lattice, and you end up with a truncated bit of lattice that is unsupported.
Is there any solution to these bits of unsupported lattice created by holes?
Hello. I'm surprised by some small holes you're putting on your first model (2mm). Is it enough for the resin to go away? Thanks
The bigger the holes the better, but in certain cases if you can't put a big one, a small one is still helping, also it's easier for cleaning later on and the holes won't be as noticeable once the print is on the shelf :)
@@Lychee3d Thanks for the quick feedback!
How do you rotate the holes like that? It doesn't give me that option and wasn't explained in the clip.
Hit the space bar when the hole is selected :)
Does tilting vat tank design eliminate or minimise suction cup effect in printers like Elagoo Saturn 4 Ultra and Mars 5 Ultra?
@@alfredanil Nope, the voids still need to be filled with air and resin. If anything if you Print towards the front of the printer. The vat is dropping at a much faster rate than the back and it can actually dramatically increase the suction and peeling Force.
@@J3DTech Form 4L uses 2 FEP sheets to prevent resin leakage, what's your thought on this?
@alfredanil This is a very different printer with a full glass lense system and temperature monitoring on every single LED and of a single LED goes out of spec. They replace the entire lighting unit.
They also use a textured LCD to essentially give you the same effect as ACF film, but without having the drawbacks of a textured release film.
Their LCD technology is also proprietary using a different type of Crystal that doesn't get damaged with the UV light, so it lasts the life of the machine.
Because of all this there's a lot they can do we can't on these other printers making it really apples to oranges.
@@J3DTech Well, I don't think the LCD would last the life of the machine, the spec sheet clearly mentions.
Light Processing Unit Estimated Lifetime :
600k - 1.9M layers, depending on material and layer height
Resin Tank Estimated Life : 75,000+ layers
For example: approximately 1,300 prints using average height models (87 mm tall) and 100 µm layer height.
Yes it does. The film has some flexibility and gets pulled progressively along one axis.
But you still need holes to clean and cure the inside.
I don’t like the fact that you can’t use cap+hole on models from the library. The money paid for that subscription is something that should be available. I would like to see this in the future and I’m sure other subscribers would agree.
Succion cups are… the worst !!
The death of resin printing
@@J3DTech Does tilting vat tank design eliminate or minimise suction cup effect in printers like Elagoo Saturn 4 Ultra and Mars 5 Ultra?
@alfredanil Nope, the void still needs to be filled with air and resin.
These are amazing...I'd love it if you stop doing the whole "not going to do it here..I don't have enough time" thing on so many videos. I'd watch a 1h version of this if it means my prints come out clean.
Thanks so much for your feedback! You can check our livestream on this channel that are longer videos and go over lots of features and workflow :)
I'm the evil first spammer. FIRST
Despicable you