Hey guys! Just wanted to tell you how much it is appreciated with these new videos in the last year. great quality, great information. super solid job. Keep em coming! 💓
Excellent video!! I think this is the only calibration video that breaks down the physical effect of each setting and its tradeoffs between accuracy and strength. Thank you and please make more!! 😀
I'm new to 3d printing and this information is extremally helpful in understanding what is happening with my experiments in slicer settings. Mostly bottom and normal exposure. I have not messed with with Light-off delay yet. I'm using your "boxes of calibration" as well as the "cones of calibration". It's been fun so far and been really enjoying this new hobby. I have an new Elegoo Saturn 4. After some experimenting I've even been able to get the small channel feature on the very underside of the "boxes of calibration" to print. I'll admit the multiple exposure setting feature on the Saturn 4 Ultra would have been nice to have on my Saturn 4. Next is to print some actual parts for my models and experiment with supports and printing angles.
@@Lychee3d quick question, you say the light off between 2-5 are most normal used. But big printers like the GK3 ultra, Anycubic M7 Max and so on, would they not usaly need more than 5 sec? due to the bigger plate/vat ?
Something I would have liked to have had touched on is discussing how lift distance, lift speed, retract speed in their first and second stages in Lychee play into the grand scheme of it all. You did mention it a little, but a little more in depth with use of the graph diagram you had would have been the icing on that cake. Then again that could likely be it's own video too. Regardless, this has helped me understand what is going on in that vat a little better.
@@Lychee3d Woot Woot I got a reply!!! I look forward to it that video, because sometimes prints come out great, and then one batch is a total failure, and then I think I did something wrong so i touch the setting and more failure and then I live with partial success. But the videos Lychee puts out have been getting better and better especially using the community photos that are submitted as examples, and also on other videos I've seen actual user screen shots of settings which has helped out immensely with commentary on those. So long story short I look forward to the video :?
very detailed work. i recently started using sunlu abs-like resin clear on my Elegoo Saturn 1. i have had some misprints and difficulty finding settings. you are the first that i have seen that did not recommend more exposure time for clear resin. i will try 60mn for layer size and turn back on the light of delay. i may also need to clean the lcd screen.
@@Lychee3d the light off delay of 2 sec seems to fix the extremely difficult to remove supports issues and support fusion issue seems to be gone. i will still try 2.5 LOD. i have upped the exp time to 3.1, so nothing left on the print bed now. i am continuing to get a flattened hand or two on some space bugs in a batch with using pre-supported minis for this testing. i usually lift the z axis by .03mm after leveling, but i am using 60um instead of 40um now. i will try bumping up the z axis lift to.05mm after leveling. also, i may try 70um print size. i am printing in the garage, so it is now colder.
Perhaps a followup video with examples for how a user would practically calibrate from the resin/machine recommended settings. It would vary for every resin/machine/brand but maybe something like: 1 print of your boxes model at recommended exposure (of resin), 2s light off delay?, recommended speed/distance (of machine) » if not enough resistance try prints of change (A) and change (B) » if bigger try prints of change (C) and change (D) » if smaller try prints of change (E) and change (F) » Maybe another round of suggestions for problems in (A) (B) (C) (D) (E) (F) prints
I'm curious about the Light-Off Delay, I get what it means, I was confused as to why its called something else in the slicer. Is that a standard industry term vs what the software decided to call it?
Thanks, these are great tips. I've never really thought about the continued movement of the resin during curing.. Spot on as always Derek. If this cubes model is actually a calibration file that @Lychee is willing to get behind, it would be awesome if it were just available in the slicer, and didn't have to be downloaded separately or require Library access. (I can't actually find this on the Library) It would be pretty fantastic if general utility models like this and Lychee's Tank cleaner file were included on the library with access open to all users, not just subscribers. If that's not possible with the current Library implementation, this calibration model should just be added to the "Primatives" menu. I know I have never felt the need to print the chicken that's in there. Bonus if you could do an actual calibration mode slice export where multiple calibration models are printing at different exposures.
Thanks for your feedback! For the multiple calibration models slicing mode, only a few printer have this feature, it's done directly on the printer, not with the slicer, it won't be possible to do it with a printer that does not support it :)
G'day Lychee..... this vid has just helped me a lot....I have a Nova3d Whale 2 4K, i dont know if i can go lower than 50um and Lychee has helped me work with what i got, but your ted talk and Easy to understand Chart ( theres something about a person showing you IRL, than some digital Graph, another person did the Script, and you just do a talk over the whole thing). I'm saving this vid for future referance, as im Partially disabled and my mind is a complete an utter mess. Pleas try to K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid) for us 50yr ol blokes with learning difficulties, pleas dont be angry its just my opinion and constructive critisisum. Big Cheers From A M8 Downunder🙃
@@genemaster74 Thank you! I try not to do scripts. I get robotic when I do. So I just start recording. It takes me several takes before I find my message. I hope the little extra effort is worth it. You can go lower then 50um but I would not recommend going lower then 30um. Just remember as you go lower your print til will go up and you will need to calibrate for every layer height you wish to print at.
So, If i as now get the Cubes to 7.9 instead of 8.0 (and 5.9 instead 6.0 etc) on this Cubes of Calibration. it "simply" means im printing with underexposure? I was also using the Cones Of Calibration and trying to get all pillars to fail on the failure side, that got me to chase in the wrong direction? I dont care about hardness in this particular case since the pieces im printing are very small and printing fine at 1.5s but they need to fit perfectly into a metal grip. Thanks for this fantastic upload! please make it a standing series, its never too much about this topic. Cheers
@@eddiexx Yes you're under exposed. Cones are a stress test, not a tensile strength test or an accuracy test. If the boxes measure under them you're leaving strength on the table. Go up on your UV exposure till they measure correctly. But if you're not using any light off delay or Wait before print. You're still hurting accuracy.
@@J3DTech So, i can go up in exposure time until i get the desired matching size between real world measure and resulting print. But i was thinking, could i simply keep printing this convenient low exposure time and simply adjust till i match the discrepancy? I men if the the difference will be consistent, giving the same result every time then its not a problem for this particular project, i simply adjust the diameter while modeling it the in this case grip hole until it fits the grip it needs to fit. If this is replicable every time, then i could keep printing with this shorter exposure time
@eddiexx There is one advantage to a under exposed print. That is a bit of wiggle room for post assembly. The difference in print time difference will be very very low as I'm sure you're only under exposing by 0.2- 0.5s per layer. The advantages are correct dimensions and a higher success rate as the supports and model will have a tiny bit more structural integrity during the printing process.
@@J3DTech brilliant, its strange how hard this is to process in your mind at first, and then slowly thanks to quality explanations like you are providing things start to clear.
Any plans to make lychee able to WiFi print directly to the Anycubic M4 Ultra? Or is that a Anycubic fix? I love printing to my GKTwo over WiFi and currently I can't use lychee to do this.
It is on Anycubic side. We are discussing with them how to support the corresponding printers. However, we don't have any timeline for now until we have the data/information fro them.
@Lychee3d sneaky sods. :) I do not like their slicer. They could just make the storage available on the network like the GKTwo does. Their website says q4 2024 so I guess they're going to miss that deadline. I appreciate that you have a profile for the M4 (unlike the "other slicer" that is not Anycubics)
another one if possible. i print directly on the plate since its a lot of small knobs im printing its very convenient, and since if i incline the models it doesn't give me a perfect shape. Is there any advantage in possible printing with supports but still flat? I mean having the knobs stand flat just like on the plate but over the supports, would this make a difference or is it the same suction forces etc as in printing flat on the plate. Ive done both but i wonder what it will mean in the long run for the fep, machine etc
It depends if it's a very large surface, if it is you'll want to tilt enough to have less cross section, we talk about it in a previous video on how to orientate a model if you want to check that out :D
I've heard overcuring is not really a thing (I'm talking about regular resins, this doesn't apply to clear or flexible resin for example). You can't really "overcure" regular resin, once all the resin is cured, more UV just won't do anything. Once the print is completed, there is only one thing to do, cure the whole thing as much as you can, because you really want to avoid manipulating a mini that has not been cured properly. At first I was trying to avoid overcuring my print, I had different cure time depending on the size of the part, if it's hollowed, etc... Now I just cure everything for 10min without question, and frankly I have not seen any difference on my print, they are not more brittle, bending or anything, and at least I'm sure they are fully cured.
You mention resin temps in the upper 20's as being a good spot. I dont disagree. From my experience, though the heat created from the lcd screen and the curing process can raise this starting temp by 5 deg or more by mid print (sampling deep in the vat where the work is taking place) meaning the resin is now in the mid 30's. I've concluded that the bulk of this heat is from the screen operation and less so from the exotherm of the resin. I base this off the fact that my DLP will lose vat temp, early in the print if I start at say 32-35c. lcd's go the other way. Try monitoring resin temp through the entire print with a thermistor thermometer. I would be interested to hear your interpretation. I currently have heating elements on the vat walls of my DLP and it holds the ST Blu Lava Black resin at 40c the entire print. Although I dont claim this as optimum I am having 0 print failures along with good quality and accuracy (after adjustment). Also, as we know, temp can have a significant effect on viscosity, especially with the Lava which is thicker than most. At 28 deg, its like gear oil. By 32, its thinned considerably and continues to thin till over 40c. I haven't attempted to stabiles resin temp with vat heating on my LCD'S yet. Just some food for thought great video, btw. Youve been thinking about this a lot👍
This is one of the best videos out there. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Thanks so much!
Hey guys!
Just wanted to tell you how much it is appreciated with these new videos in the last year. great quality, great information. super solid job. Keep em coming! 💓
Thanks so much for your comment!
Excellent video!! I think this is the only calibration video that breaks down the physical effect of each setting and its tradeoffs between accuracy and strength. Thank you and please make more!! 😀
Thanks! Will do :D
That's the best I have ever heard explained on setting up print and knowing what happens and what your looking for. Thanks. Greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much
Thanks!
As someone with a background in materials science, I really appreciate your way of explaining things.
Thank you that means a lot
Soooo good! This video is a staple for all new comers to the hobby
Thank you
Been printing hundreds and hundreds since many years now, and those were the worthiest 13mn by FAR. Plus I like your perfect beard.
Thank you!
Great explanation.
Only thing missing in this video is a flowchart of how to calibrate: for those with and without resin heaters.
The Process will be the same, you just will need a bit more UV exposure time, but that will be reflected in the Calibration Print.
Great stuff, thanks. I can't seem to find the Light Off Delay anywhere in the Lychee interface, though...
Never mind, it's in the Resin parameters. I was confused because the screenshot in the video shows "Wait Before Print", perhaps in an older version?
I'm new to 3d printing and this information is extremally helpful in understanding what is happening with my experiments in slicer settings. Mostly bottom and normal exposure. I have not messed with with Light-off delay yet. I'm using your "boxes of calibration" as well as the "cones of calibration". It's been fun so far and been really enjoying this new hobby. I have an new Elegoo Saturn 4. After some experimenting I've even been able to get the small channel feature on the very underside of the "boxes of calibration" to print. I'll admit the multiple exposure setting feature on the Saturn 4 Ultra would have been nice to have on my Saturn 4. Next is to print some actual parts for my models and experiment with supports and printing angles.
Thank you for this great video!
you're welcome!
This is the best video ive seen on resin settings. I love your custom test print. Is it availbe for us to try?
Hi! Thanks for your feedback! You can find this model on the Lychee Library and on Derek's cults3d profile ''J3DTech''
@Lychee3d followed on cults thanks.
Very informative. Thank you
You're welcome!
these videos are amazing!
Thanks!
Really great video
Thanks!
awesome video, thanks!
Thanks for your comment! :D
@@Lychee3d quick question, you say the light off between 2-5 are most normal used. But big printers like the GK3 ultra, Anycubic M7 Max and so on, would they not usaly need more than 5 sec? due to the bigger plate/vat ?
Very instresting, thank you
You’re welcome!
Something I would have liked to have had touched on is discussing how lift distance, lift speed, retract speed in their first and second stages in Lychee play into the grand scheme of it all. You did mention it a little, but a little more in depth with use of the graph diagram you had would have been the icing on that cake. Then again that could likely be it's own video too. Regardless, this has helped me understand what is going on in that vat a little better.
A video is coming on this! :D
@@Lychee3d Woot Woot I got a reply!!! I look forward to it that video, because sometimes prints come out great, and then one batch is a total failure, and then I think I did something wrong so i touch the setting and more failure and then I live with partial success. But the videos Lychee puts out have been getting better and better especially using the community photos that are submitted as examples, and also on other videos I've seen actual user screen shots of settings which has helped out immensely with commentary on those. So long story short I look forward to the video :?
very detailed work. i recently started using sunlu abs-like resin clear on my Elegoo Saturn 1. i have had some misprints and difficulty finding settings. you are the first that i have seen that did not recommend more exposure time for clear resin. i will try 60mn for layer size and turn back on the light of delay. i may also need to clean the lcd screen.
Hope it works!
@@Lychee3d the light off delay of 2 sec seems to fix the extremely difficult to remove supports issues and support fusion issue seems to be gone. i will still try 2.5 LOD. i have upped the exp time to 3.1, so nothing left on the print bed now. i am continuing to get a flattened hand or two on some space bugs in a batch with using pre-supported minis for this testing. i usually lift the z axis by .03mm after leveling, but i am using 60um instead of 40um now. i will try bumping up the z axis lift to.05mm after leveling. also, i may try 70um print size. i am printing in the garage, so it is now colder.
Thanks for the tips. How does moving vat tech like Elegoo's factor into all this? Or does it at all?
Everything still applies accept speed and lift distance. However it still has two settings and you can play with the two to see what works for you.
Perhaps a followup video with examples for how a user would practically calibrate from the resin/machine recommended settings.
It would vary for every resin/machine/brand but maybe something like:
1 print of your boxes model at recommended exposure (of resin), 2s light off delay?, recommended speed/distance (of machine)
» if not enough resistance try prints of change (A) and change (B)
» if bigger try prints of change (C) and change (D)
» if smaller try prints of change (E) and change (F)
» Maybe another round of suggestions for problems in (A) (B) (C) (D) (E) (F) prints
In my guide I have all of this information, but a video covering it to that level is a good idea.
Great idea!
I'm curious about the Light-Off Delay, I get what it means, I was confused as to why its called something else in the slicer. Is that a standard industry term vs what the software decided to call it?
Awesome tips and tricks my man! Thank you 😊 I love that bright brown resin! What brand is it? Elegoo 8k or Phrozen Aqua 8k?
It's my own blend ;)
Thanks!
Thanks, these are great tips. I've never really thought about the continued movement of the resin during curing.. Spot on as always Derek.
If this cubes model is actually a calibration file that @Lychee is willing to get behind, it would be awesome if it were just available in the slicer, and didn't have to be downloaded separately or require Library access. (I can't actually find this on the Library)
It would be pretty fantastic if general utility models like this and Lychee's Tank cleaner file were included on the library with access open to all users, not just subscribers. If that's not possible with the current Library implementation, this calibration model should just be added to the "Primatives" menu. I know I have never felt the need to print the chicken that's in there.
Bonus if you could do an actual calibration mode slice export where multiple calibration models are printing at different exposures.
Thanks for your feedback! For the multiple calibration models slicing mode, only a few printer have this feature, it's done directly on the printer, not with the slicer, it won't be possible to do it with a printer that does not support it :)
Very interesting video. Where can I download the Build Plate Calibration test by J3D Tech? I have searched for it but without any luck.
Thanks! The models by derek are on Cults but soon available in the Library so you'll have it directly into the slicer :D
G'day Lychee..... this vid has just helped me a lot....I have a Nova3d Whale 2 4K, i dont know if i can go lower than 50um and Lychee has helped me work with what i got, but your ted talk and Easy to understand Chart ( theres something about a person showing you IRL, than some digital Graph, another person did the Script, and you just do a talk over the whole thing). I'm saving this vid for future referance, as im Partially disabled and my mind is a complete an utter mess. Pleas try to K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid) for us 50yr ol blokes with learning difficulties, pleas dont be angry its just my opinion and constructive critisisum. Big Cheers From A M8 Downunder🙃
@@genemaster74 Thank you! I try not to do scripts. I get robotic when I do. So I just start recording. It takes me several takes before I find my message. I hope the little extra effort is worth it.
You can go lower then 50um but I would not recommend going lower then 30um. Just remember as you go lower your print til will go up and you will need to calibrate for every layer height you wish to print at.
So, If i as now get the Cubes to 7.9 instead of 8.0 (and 5.9 instead 6.0 etc) on this Cubes of Calibration. it "simply" means im printing with underexposure? I was also using the Cones Of Calibration and trying to get all pillars to fail on the failure side, that got me to chase in the wrong direction? I dont care about hardness in this particular case since the pieces im printing are very small and printing fine at 1.5s but they need to fit perfectly into a metal grip. Thanks for this fantastic upload! please make it a standing series, its never too much about this topic. Cheers
@@eddiexx Yes you're under exposed.
Cones are a stress test, not a tensile strength test or an accuracy test.
If the boxes measure under them you're leaving strength on the table. Go up on your UV exposure till they measure correctly.
But if you're not using any light off delay or Wait before print. You're still hurting accuracy.
@@J3DTech So, i can go up in exposure time until i get the desired matching size between real world measure and resulting print. But i was thinking, could i simply keep printing this convenient low exposure time and simply adjust till i match the discrepancy? I men if the the difference will be consistent, giving the same result every time then its not a problem for this particular project, i simply adjust the diameter while modeling it the in this case grip hole until it fits the grip it needs to fit. If this is replicable every time, then i could keep printing with this shorter exposure time
@eddiexx There is one advantage to a under exposed print. That is a bit of wiggle room for post assembly.
The difference in print time difference will be very very low as I'm sure you're only under exposing by 0.2- 0.5s per layer.
The advantages are correct dimensions and a higher success rate as the supports and model will have a tiny bit more structural integrity during the printing process.
@@J3DTech brilliant, its strange how hard this is to process in your mind at first, and then slowly thanks to quality explanations like you are providing things start to clear.
@eddiexx Thank you! It's a complex topic and in this video we don't even cover all of it.
Any plans to make lychee able to WiFi print directly to the Anycubic M4 Ultra? Or is that a Anycubic fix? I love printing to my GKTwo over WiFi and currently I can't use lychee to do this.
It is on Anycubic side. We are discussing with them how to support the corresponding printers. However, we don't have any timeline for now until we have the data/information fro them.
@Lychee3d sneaky sods. :) I do not like their slicer. They could just make the storage available on the network like the GKTwo does. Their website says q4 2024 so I guess they're going to miss that deadline. I appreciate that you have a profile for the M4 (unlike the "other slicer" that is not Anycubics)
another one if possible. i print directly on the plate since its a lot of small knobs im printing its very convenient, and since if i incline the models it doesn't give me a perfect shape. Is there any advantage in possible printing with supports but still flat? I mean having the knobs stand flat just like on the plate but over the supports, would this make a difference or is it the same suction forces etc as in printing flat on the plate. Ive done both but i wonder what it will mean in the long run for the fep, machine etc
It depends if it's a very large surface, if it is you'll want to tilt enough to have less cross section, we talk about it in a previous video on how to orientate a model if you want to check that out :D
do you have a test for post-curing? I've been guessing with 2 minutes increments until it passes the lick test, but that doesn't feel accurate
I've heard overcuring is not really a thing (I'm talking about regular resins, this doesn't apply to clear or flexible resin for example). You can't really "overcure" regular resin, once all the resin is cured, more UV just won't do anything. Once the print is completed, there is only one thing to do, cure the whole thing as much as you can, because you really want to avoid manipulating a mini that has not been cured properly. At first I was trying to avoid overcuring my print, I had different cure time depending on the size of the part, if it's hollowed, etc... Now I just cure everything for 10min without question, and frankly I have not seen any difference on my print, they are not more brittle, bending or anything, and at least I'm sure they are fully cured.
Also I hope your lick test absolutly involve licking the mini to check if it's properly cured, because that's 100% the way of doing it.
You should be testing boxes after curing. This way you are taking that into account.
I cure them for 3-5 min depending on the resin.
and where can i download these shown calibration objects?
The models by derek are on Cults but soon available in the Library so you'll have it directly into the slicer :D For ameralabs it's on their website
Is there a link to download your resins calibration model?
You can find them on cults J3DTech and soon in Lychee Library :)
Wait...J3D in these streets!!! oh hell yea...your boxes of calibration..have saved me so much frustration!!
Thank you!
You mention resin temps in the upper 20's as being a good spot. I dont disagree. From my experience, though the heat created from the lcd screen and the curing process can raise this starting temp by 5 deg or more by mid print (sampling deep in the vat where the work is taking place) meaning the resin is now in the mid 30's. I've concluded that the bulk of this heat is from the screen operation and less so from the exotherm of the resin. I base this off the fact that my DLP will lose vat temp, early in the print if I start at say 32-35c. lcd's go the other way. Try monitoring resin temp through the entire print with a thermistor thermometer. I would be interested to hear your interpretation. I currently have heating elements on the vat walls of my DLP and it holds the ST Blu Lava Black resin at 40c the entire print. Although I dont claim this as optimum I am having 0 print failures along with good quality and accuracy (after adjustment). Also, as we know, temp can have a significant effect on viscosity, especially with the Lava which is thicker than most. At 28 deg, its like gear oil. By 32, its thinned considerably and continues to thin till over 40c. I haven't attempted to stabiles resin temp with vat heating on my LCD'S yet. Just some food for thought
great video, btw. Youve been thinking about this a lot👍
Thanks for your comments! :D
STOP this annoying and awfull music (or what you may calll music) !!!
Russki hardbass 😂
That's all you took from this extremely high level knowledge video? Hope you are gonna feel better, good luck in life!
i find lychee so slow to load files and slice ?
What computer do you have?
very valuable info
thx