We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.
I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.
I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos. Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!
Waiting to get all my safety gear and needed post op tools, in the mean time I am gathering as much information in resin printing and this video was very informative and great to learn from. Thank you very much for your time and information.
I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!
same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!
The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)
So useful and so organized. Many UA-camrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.
Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.
Man !!! You're great, now I learned a lot and I printed the matrix and the rook, after many tests I finally found the right parameters and I feel so happy, so now I'll print scale cars cause I'm a scale modeler, it'll take time each print but it'll be perfect thanks to your video and easy explaining.., greetings from Mexico !! You're great !!
Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.
This is EXACTLY what I needed. I haven't touched my creality in months because I couldn't get my times proper. (I'm using clear resin) so thank you so much.
I feel u man when i first used clear blue i had the same exposure settings as the grey resin that came with my mars 2p and uhh… yeah not fun lol set me back a bit
Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use
I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy. the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.
Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me Thanks for the tips
Thank you very much. I've been having problems with getting a mixture of resins to work right. Now that I have this and knowing that my mono goes by 0.1 seconds instead of 0.5 seconds helps me a lot. Much appreciated.
Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.
I downloaded the test print and got it perfect the first time. Surprised the hell out of me since I was trying out a 50/50 mixture of two different resins with Cabosil also mixed in for strength. I now have the strongest and sharpest test print ever printed.
im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!
Thanks! This was very informative and easy to follow. I'm just getting into SLA printing after being involved with FDM for over a decade and finding out quickly that there is a nice little learning curve, so thank you for helping to flatten that curve for me.
So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!
What an excellent video. I've been printing for some time but still get confused by these various settings and exposure time. Thanks for such a clear concise explanation. Really well done and I appreciate you taking the time to make and post this video.
This is a great video thanks, the only thing I would add is ,3d printing pro made a video explaining why more than 4 burn in layers doesn't really make a difference
as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??
Best presentation band explanation of exposure settings , specially with the subtle details such as mono vs RGB, and the 10x factor for bottom later exposure (is this common?) , great stuff I will be referring back to this video often for remembering technical details ,
Cheers mate, for everything I have resin printed this is a good general rule but make sure to keep the bottom exposure time lower than ~30 seconds. Any higher and the printer will get too hot.
Spot on, checking and updating your profile as the seasons changes is a good tip, but a random wild weather day can certainly throw your results for a loop.
After 5 years of FDM printing I finally bought a resin printer, on my first print I used your calibration matrix, well I got extremely lucky I used 50um layer height and guessed a cure time of 2.5 with Conjure Rigid Clear Blue and I can count 13 Holes and 13 Pins. Being around aircraft fluids and eating food with literal black hands I didn't think I would mind the cleaning. Unfortunately, it's not as satisfying to rush to the printer and pull off the print. The print does look amazing, and it was even more impressive when I pulled the STL files into CAD and measured the 13th at 0.100mm and the 13th hole was actually a SQUARE measuring at 0.070mm x 0.070mm. Wish me luck, I have some soul searching to do and hopefully I can reconcile this..........
I might be a bit late to the party! but amazing video very clear explanations about the exposure times one of the best videos on youtube. I do have question tho! i have been looking for videos about the Halot one combined with Elegoo water washable resin 405nm. I cannot seem to find anything on youtube or the internet. I was hoping you could help me out with this, like the proper exposure settings. I have been messing around with the exposure times for the WW resin for about 2 weeks now and i cannot for the life me find the correct exposure settings.
Thank you for your very kind words 😊 and Elegoo water washable resin isn't one I have used yet. Is the process outlined in the video not working for your set up?
I bought my resin 3D printer with the expectation that it is more accurate than FDM printers for making functional parts. I was very disappointed that things wouldn't fit properly. In fact, they don't fit at all. I will try these calibration methods and see if it'll improve ....
You'll be able to produce functional parts, just be aware each time you use a different resin it will affect Dimensional Accuracy. Run off a couple of Dimensional calibration prints to nail it. Produce a XYZ Cube which is perfectly 20x20x20mm and you'll be good to go. If too small/big scale up/down in your slicing software. STL Link to Cube - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 Then when you are producing perfect XYZ Cubes start printing your functional parts, making sure to scale the component to the same amount.
Still got all them lines on the model there I wouldn't call that perfect! This is exactly what we are trying to find how to solve these build mesh lines that are printed on the model I see them all over the body there the details are great but the step lines are still there!
interestingly i have the same printer as you but needed to actually increase the exposure time to 3.8s to get supports to stick, with the anycubic "rapid" resin.
Proper interesting to know, goes to show the big differences between different brands of resin (when out of the box and poured into the VAT they can look exactly the same)
I'm using Anycubic mono X with their basic resins in a light color. My perfect print settings (on a new printer) were: UV light strength @70%, 1.5 sec exp time, 6 bottom layers, 35 sec exp time. After 50 hours of print I started getting underexposed prints so I upped UV light strength to 75%, everything else stayed the same. Still getting perfect prints. I change FEP sheets every 25 hours of print time or so. I printed about 5 liters of resin (printing mostly full build plates).
Ohhhh I recieved a printer for Christmas Christmas was trying to print stamps for clay but my design was getting muddled together I didn't know I could deviate from the options on the resin bottle
UV Tools is your port of call - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases When set up correctly and started this will run multiple test across your whole print platform.
I get same problems with typical over exposure and under exposure. Bits overlay too much and also thinnest details are missing or partial. Struggle with setting PWM light and right exposre time
So question...so you cab adjust exposure time on a file at the machine so if the print came out a lil strange so instead of making a new file I can adjust it right there? Creality halot mage owner here
Hi,great video,but I’m pulling my hair out,when I go to settings on halot one on lychee,I have very few parameters to adjust,simply volume ,screen and default transition layers,there are other settings to adjust on the printer screen,but nothing to compare what you are showing,getting to the point of giving up
Just had a look for you and your absolutely right, the options available with that machine are less than they should. If you set up the Halot (LD-006) 3D printer in the Chitubox Slicer all the settings you would expect are there. So I'd recommend using Chitubox with that Printer until Lychee updates itself.
Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax
Hey buddy, we have just migrated to a New Updated Website and just ironing out the niggly, teething issues. Models will be available at the bottom of the full article very soon. Until then here is a very similar Rook Test Piece - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962430
I'm a little bit confused about the holes on the left side; Is it supposed to go all the way through, or is it supposed to be plugged up half-way through as if there's a backing behind the holes?
What you are observing is the resulting model created from Bottom Exposure Times VS Normal Exposure Times. The Bottom Exposure times wont keep the model design perfectly dimensionally accurate but will enable model adhering to the build platform. So don't focus your keen eye on the first 4 layers that are Bottom Exposure Time, we're more interested in the result from Normal Exposure Times (which present themselves at higher layers)
Thanks mate 😊 the settings I found here was for my LD-002H 3D Printer and Grey Creality Resin Combo. I highly recommend running these tests for your own machine as exposure time is dependent on all kinds of factors, even climate. I reckon your Portugal summers would be different than our Australian ones. Take care!
What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.
Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform. I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.
Thanks for this video, I'll definitely run more tests! Do you think the 10x for bottom layer works for water washable resin too? And how many bottom layers do you suggest?
My experience with water washable resin is limited but I would treat it the same and follow my general rules for normal resin. So I'd have 8-12 bottom layers and a bottom exposure time that was 10x normal layers.
Does it matter it I don't cure the matrixes? I'm checking them fresh out of the printer and I've tried several settings for exposure and the right bottom end of the bars don't materialize
There are some dimensional changes that occur when you cure models so to get the best possible understanding I would recommend curing the pieces. Doing so also means you can handle the printed parts without gloves.
After the first Matrix was done printed and removed from the Platform, Do I have to Level it again or is it possible to print the next exposure test right after that?
Once you have leveled the platform once your good to go. It is good practice to do so once every 6 months, but so long as those screws (that you tightened to level the build platform) are still tight the build platform will still be level. Hope that helps 😊
HELLO. I DO NOT AGREE. I HAVE PRINTED AS YOU SAID ADN THE VALIDATION MATRIX WORKED FINE BUT THE FINAL TEETH DID NOT COME OUT OK HAVEING WORPED SHAPES. I AM USING SG-1 SHINNING SURGICAL GUIDE AND ANYCUBIC DLP D2 PRINTER. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?
So... these test prints to calibrate a printer is good and all, but I did run into a very... odd issue. I used this to home in the settings on some elegoo standard translucent resin and yeah, this and a few other calibration prints came out better than I hoped, both default settings to strart with and homing it down. But in really printing something... no matter what it was, or the orientation of the object... the side facing down printed flawlessly. But the side facing up, facing the build plate and around supports looked to 'gum up' or colect a mass of resin and cure it as well. These all being prints I've had no isues with in other resins. So the side facing the build plate would come out gunked up, thick globs everywhere, bad warping and so on. I'd share photos but youtube has been auto deleting all comments with links in them, even if I try and get fancy with it. Could this be just a bad batch of resin? Or some other factor I'm unaware of when it comes to clear/transparent resin? Could it be due to printing in winter though the temp inside and around the printer are with in the working range? It just seems no matter how I adjusted the settings even using settings ment for like the standard gray the same thing. If facing to the side or away from build plate, prints sharp and clear... face build plate and it's a mess. I am going to be switching back to the gray just to be sure something isn't badly fudging up. But this is starting to bother me as I was really looking forward to doing a few things with the translucent.
Thanks for sharing mate, this gunk that you have on the bottom layers when you use transparent resin could be any number of reasons. You've highlighted the main culprits that I reckon it is, old resin and temperature. Resin does last a long while sealed up and out of the sun. Make sure that you have filtered it so that there isn't any cured/semi cured resin hidden in there. Its particularly hard to see this with Transparent Resin. With the right setting temperature can be overcome, I've seen a fellow produce resin prints in the snow (ua-cam.com/video/Ac2-tnCSwQc/v-deo.html). With the images I can help better, come post them on our Forum 😊
You could dial-in your exposure setting time using a binary search instead of printing multiple times with .1 second variation. save yourself time and material. i still appreciated your video and detailed break down greatly, just a small suggestion.
@@TheRealViniciusSilva A way to find whether an item is in an ordered set very efficiently. Let's say the set is in ascending order. You'd start with a center item and see whether the value you're looking at is bigger or smaller than the item you want. If it's less you find the middle item in the latter half of the set. If it's greater you find the middle item in the first half the set. Repeat till you find your item, or nothing if the item doesn't exist. In this case, you can think of the calibration models as a set. If you know, before printing, about what underexposed prints look like, and about what overexposed prints look like, you can use this same process to fine-tune your settings using less time and material.
When you say you have to do another exposure test with a new resin, do you mean retesting the resin of the same kind, a resin of a different kind, or both?
Nice question, resins of the same brand but different colours/transparency are definitely worth re-running these tests as the exposure light will travel through the resins differently (in regards to both penetration and dispersal through the liquid). An argument can also be made for re-testing the exact same brand and type of resin if your are using a new bottle (as variance can occur between batches from the manufacturer) but normally you will be good to go with the same settings.
Does this apply to water-washable resin as well? they are trying to say 60s burn in and 8s normal layer. Idk if the composition is different or something by my prints so far are basically glued to the build plate and damn near impossible to remove without alot of working it. I'm order a flex plate so that won't matter soon but one of my prints were so welded on that it damaged parts of the plate trying to remove it.
Got the same problem but I don’t think it's the resin it's the files settings because the test models I've got work really and get off the plate easily...
Having a flex plate is definitely the best solution to removing models. 60 second burn in seems too long to me, that length of time would get the resin and tank pretty hot, particularly on Monochrome Screen Printers. I have not used water soluble resin however I would run some test using significantly lower Burn in layer times. If careful a razor blade is the perfect tool to lift up an edge to then get the metal spatula underneath to remove the printed model.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks! My flex plate just came in, and yea after talking to a facebook group more about it I ran some of your tests and found around 40 sec bottom and 4.5 normal exposure seem to be pretty close for the water wash. I'm having issues now with prints with supports just getting peeled from the supports but I think that my fep sheet is ruined so I bought some ptfe lube and new sheets, hoping that fixes the problem as I even tested it with a ton of supports and its still getting ripped off. instead of a thump it sounds like a bandaid getting peeled off.
Oh jeez, the caveats at the end were depressing. To hear you describe it, I should run a test print series before EVERY print. My climate is constantly changing, the age of my filament and printer are constantly changing, and of course, my resin batch mumber is changing.
We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.
Love your resins
Wish I could love your resins but we can't get none in Brazil. Still respect your brand tho, only read good things about it around the internet
I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.
siraya tech leading the industry :)
Your channel is a gold mine! Speaking as an ex-teacher, you have the gift.
I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos.
Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!
Thank you very much for your kind words! New videos all the time so come subscribe if you'd like 😊
Waiting to get all my safety gear and needed post op tools, in the mean time I am gathering as much information in resin printing and this video was very informative and great to learn from. Thank you very much for your time and information.
I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!
Yay! My pleasure mate, glad to of helped 😊
same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!
Finally an expert who is able to explain complex 3D issues to new users like myself- absolutely brilliant!!! Thank you
So glad you dig it 😊!
Incredible intonations, thanks for being easy understandable and straight to the point, no rubbish.
i´m a total noob in resin printing here my printer arrives in 3 more days and this is the BEST explanation i´ve seen so far congrats
The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)
I struggle with the cones could never get them perfect
@killiandw Also depends on the resin of course, state of you FEP and mostly constant temperature.
So useful and so organized. Many UA-camrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.
Cheers champ! 😄
I have to say, this is the single most helpful video on resin 3D printing for newbies like me ive seen yet 👌
Happy to hear that!
As someone new to 3D printing, this was very helpful. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.
Try the 3DRS Starship Calibration test over this one for real world usage!
Man !!! You're great, now I learned a lot and I printed the matrix and the rook, after many tests I finally found the right parameters and I feel so happy, so now I'll print scale cars cause I'm a scale modeler, it'll take time each print but it'll be perfect thanks to your video and easy explaining.., greetings from Mexico !! You're great !!
This video alone was exactly what I needed thank you so much, I have looked through heaps of videos but none break it down like this.
😊😊 Cheers mate!
Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.
My pleasure and cheers for sharing you experience 😊
This is EXACTLY what I needed. I haven't touched my creality in months because I couldn't get my times proper. (I'm using clear resin) so thank you so much.
Suuuper happy to of helped 😊 hope you back on track now printing beautiful models
I feel u man when i first used clear blue i had the same exposure settings as the grey resin that came with my mars 2p and uhh… yeah not fun lol set me back a bit
Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use
About to get an Saturn S and knowing these things help so much.
holy moly, what an excellent video! i don't even have a 3d printer and that was like perfect!
Haha yay! Cheers mate 😄
EXCELLENT INFORMATION! THANK YOU SIR!
all the information here is gold jerry, gold!
I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy.
the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.
Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible
I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me
Thanks for the tips
As always, consise, clear and very knowledgeable
Thank you very much. I've been having problems with getting a mixture of resins to work right. Now that I have this and knowing that my mono goes by 0.1 seconds instead of 0.5 seconds helps me a lot. Much appreciated.
Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.
Naww ❤ Big love! Cheers for that comment mate, made my day! - Tim
I downloaded the test print and got it perfect the first time. Surprised the hell out of me since I was trying out a 50/50 mixture of two different resins with Cabosil also mixed in for strength. I now have the strongest and sharpest test print ever printed.
Sweet! The idea of putting Cabosil into the resin is such a rad idea. Have you noticed significant strength increase?
Thankyou so much, ive been having so many issues with my new Halot Mage, your video was very easy to follow
Thanks for the detailed, fast and very easy to understand explanations!
My pleasure 😀
Love your video style. Could you do a start to finish guide on crystal clear prints?
You made it so clear and easy to understand.
Just got yourself a subscriber.
Looking forward to watching more of your videos
Yayay 🙂 Hope your having a swell day!
I'm here because I want to create my own pokemon toy collection... thank you I learn something today..
im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!
Glad it helped!
great, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks! This was very informative and easy to follow. I'm just getting into SLA printing after being involved with FDM for over a decade and finding out quickly that there is a nice little learning curve, so thank you for helping to flatten that curve for me.
Rock on mate 😊 thanks for your kind words! Resin printing is an awesome world, hope all the best for your future prints.
WOW! Impresive information
Great video! It's just what I needed.
Thank you so much. This vidéo was really helpfull. Clear explanations. Well made video.
Cheers mate 😊
i printed an absolutley perfect rook with 2.5, using the mars 2 pro and there grey resin. seems i got real lucky rite out the box.
Happy days 😊!
So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!
I love this channel! Great videos brotha keep making more!
Great explanation, thanks for the good content!! :D
I appreciate this dawg!
Awesome video. Thank you! Very very informative to a resin printing newbie like myself.
My pleasure 😊 thank you for the comment
What an excellent video. I've been printing for some time but still get confused by these various settings and exposure time. Thanks for such a clear concise explanation. Really well done and I appreciate you taking the time to make and post this video.
Big thanks mate 🙂! More on the way.
extremely useful video, Thanks a lot !
My pleasure mate 😊
Tolerance compensation is for this exact problem. Chitubox has this feature and I use it all the time.
Great video ... thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for your sharing
😊
This is a great video thanks, the only thing I would add is ,3d printing pro made a video explaining why more than 4 burn in layers doesn't really make a difference
I'll have to check it out, my experience has been more burn in layers has resulted in better model stiction to the buildplate.
this video will be very helpful for me. thanks
as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??
Aww cheers mate 😊 the STL link is near the bottom of the Full Written up article, I'll post it here for you - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132
Best presentation band explanation of exposure settings , specially with the subtle details such as mono vs RGB, and the 10x factor for bottom later exposure (is this common?) , great stuff I will be referring back to this video often for remembering technical details ,
Cheers mate, for everything I have resin printed this is a good general rule but make sure to keep the bottom exposure time lower than ~30 seconds. Any higher and the printer will get too hot.
@@Core-Electronics beauty, beauty
The ambient room temperature and the temperature of the resin is also important.
Spot on, checking and updating your profile as the seasons changes is a good tip, but a random wild weather day can certainly throw your results for a loop.
After 5 years of FDM printing I finally bought a resin printer, on my first print I used your calibration matrix, well I got extremely lucky I used 50um layer height and guessed a cure time of 2.5 with Conjure Rigid Clear Blue and I can count 13 Holes and 13 Pins. Being around aircraft fluids and eating food with literal black hands I didn't think I would mind the cleaning. Unfortunately, it's not as satisfying to rush to the printer and pull off the print. The print does look amazing, and it was even more impressive when I pulled the STL files into CAD and measured the 13th at 0.100mm and the 13th hole was actually a SQUARE measuring at 0.070mm x 0.070mm. Wish me luck, I have some soul searching to do and hopefully I can reconcile this..........
Best of luck!
I might be a bit late to the party! but amazing video very clear explanations about the exposure times one of the best videos on youtube. I do have question tho! i have been looking for videos about the Halot one combined with Elegoo water washable resin 405nm. I cannot seem to find anything on youtube or the internet. I was hoping you could help me out with this, like the proper exposure settings. I have been messing around with the exposure times for the WW resin for about 2 weeks now and i cannot for the life me find the correct exposure settings.
Thank you for your very kind words 😊 and Elegoo water washable resin isn't one I have used yet. Is the process outlined in the video not working for your set up?
I bought my resin 3D printer with the expectation that it is more accurate than FDM printers for making functional parts. I was very disappointed that things wouldn't fit properly. In fact, they don't fit at all. I will try these calibration methods and see if it'll improve ....
You'll be able to produce functional parts, just be aware each time you use a different resin it will affect Dimensional Accuracy. Run off a couple of Dimensional calibration prints to nail it. Produce a XYZ Cube which is perfectly 20x20x20mm and you'll be good to go. If too small/big scale up/down in your slicing software. STL Link to Cube - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865
Then when you are producing perfect XYZ Cubes start printing your functional parts, making sure to scale the component to the same amount.
Still got all them lines on the model there I wouldn't call that perfect! This is exactly what we are trying to find how to solve these build mesh lines that are printed on the model I see them all over the body there the details are great but the step lines are still there!
interestingly i have the same printer as you but needed to actually increase the exposure time to 3.8s to get supports to stick, with the anycubic "rapid" resin.
Proper interesting to know, goes to show the big differences between different brands of resin (when out of the box and poured into the VAT they can look exactly the same)
I'm using Anycubic mono X with their basic resins in a light color. My perfect print settings (on a new printer) were: UV light strength @70%, 1.5 sec exp time, 6 bottom layers, 35 sec exp time. After 50 hours of print I started getting underexposed prints so I upped UV light strength to 75%, everything else stayed the same.
Still getting perfect prints. I change FEP sheets every 25 hours of print time or so. I printed about 5 liters of resin (printing mostly full build plates).
Cheers for sharing mate 😊 love hearing success stories and your experience with your machine over time.
Fantastic Vid, thank you so much
Thanks for the explanation. I'm confused whether the exposure times should be set on my 3d printer or in my slicer. Do I do both?
How are you putting them into the slicer? flat on the bed or at an angle with supports?
Flat, set the base layers to 4 and it's relatively easy to remove from your build plate despite being large surface area.
Good info
Ohhhh
I recieved a printer for Christmas Christmas was trying to print stamps for clay but my design was getting muddled together
I didn't know I could deviate from the options on the resin bottle
Question, do I have to change the settings on the printer and the software or just on the printer?
very informative, good job keep it up
Cheers mate 😊 will do my best
Perfect video for beginners to learn, still with 2.2sec its underexposed that the outer fine lines on The test model are loose -.-"
there was no way to generate multiple exposure in one file directly ? to avoir print and clean between every timer ?
UV Tools is your port of call - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases
When set up correctly and started this will run multiple test across your whole print platform.
@@Core-Electronics thanks , will try ☺️
the. way. he speaks. gives. me. ANXIETY
I get same problems with typical over exposure and under exposure. Bits overlay too much and also thinnest details are missing or partial. Struggle with setting PWM light and right exposre time
Literary theory video I was looking for (:
Exactly where is the validation matrix located in the description?
AH! Never mind the download is not in the description, there is a link to tutorial website that has the download link located there.
So question...so you cab adjust exposure time on a file at the machine so if the print came out a lil strange so instead of making a new file I can adjust it right there? Creality halot mage owner here
the website is down, hope you can fix and reupload the file, it's super useful!
Back and fully operational 😊 thanks for the kind words
Got it!
Just Brilliant 👍🥰
Big love 💖
Hi,great video,but I’m pulling my hair out,when I go to settings on halot one on lychee,I have very few parameters to adjust,simply volume ,screen and default transition layers,there are other settings to adjust on the printer screen,but nothing to compare what you are showing,getting to the point of giving up
Just had a look for you and your absolutely right, the options available with that machine are less than they should. If you set up the Halot (LD-006) 3D printer in the Chitubox Slicer all the settings you would expect are there. So I'd recommend using Chitubox with that Printer until Lychee updates itself.
The Cones of Calibration!
Proper interesting! I'll give these Cones of Calibration a good looksie 😊 Thanks.
Sir the layer is not printing on the print bed suddenly can you tell me what is the problem
Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax
very useful thank you
Glad it was helpful!
nice but can´t find the Rook Calibration Chess Piece anywhere anymore?
Hey buddy, we have just migrated to a New Updated Website and just ironing out the niggly, teething issues. Models will be available at the bottom of the full article very soon. Until then here is a very similar Rook Test Piece - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962430
I'm a little bit confused about the holes on the left side; Is it supposed to go all the way through, or is it supposed to be plugged up half-way through as if there's a backing behind the holes?
What you are observing is the resulting model created from Bottom Exposure Times VS Normal Exposure Times. The Bottom Exposure times wont keep the model design perfectly dimensionally accurate but will enable model adhering to the build platform. So don't focus your keen eye on the first 4 layers that are Bottom Exposure Time, we're more interested in the result from Normal Exposure Times (which present themselves at higher layers)
Dear friend. Congratulatios for ths video! Very helpfull! The setting for the LD-002H, is for all Creality Resin? Thank You. Pedro. Portugal.
Thanks mate 😊 the settings I found here was for my LD-002H 3D Printer and Grey Creality Resin Combo.
I highly recommend running these tests for your own machine as exposure time is dependent on all kinds of factors, even climate. I reckon your Portugal summers would be different than our Australian ones. Take care!
@@Core-Electronics thank you.
I will try. I brought the black resin from creality. Let's get some tests.
What resin is that nice purple gengar? I have trouble finding purple resin
What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.
Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform.
I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.
Thanks for this video, I'll definitely run more tests! Do you think the 10x for bottom layer works for water washable resin too? And how many bottom layers do you suggest?
My experience with water washable resin is limited but I would treat it the same and follow my general rules for normal resin. So I'd have 8-12 bottom layers and a bottom exposure time that was 10x normal layers.
Hi friend, im new and having a lot of problems, im using the same resin, but using halot box slicer. Can you help me with the settings? Please.
Does it matter it I don't cure the matrixes? I'm checking them fresh out of the printer and I've tried several settings for exposure and the right bottom end of the bars don't materialize
There are some dimensional changes that occur when you cure models so to get the best possible understanding I would recommend curing the pieces. Doing so also means you can handle the printed parts without gloves.
After the first Matrix was done printed and removed from the Platform, Do I have to Level it again or is it possible to print the next exposure test right after that?
Once you have leveled the platform once your good to go. It is good practice to do so once every 6 months, but so long as those screws (that you tightened to level the build platform) are still tight the build platform will still be level.
Hope that helps 😊
HELLO. I DO NOT AGREE. I HAVE PRINTED AS YOU SAID ADN THE VALIDATION MATRIX WORKED FINE BUT THE FINAL TEETH DID NOT COME OUT OK HAVEING WORPED SHAPES. I AM USING SG-1 SHINNING SURGICAL GUIDE AND ANYCUBIC DLP D2 PRINTER. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?
So... these test prints to calibrate a printer is good and all, but I did run into a very... odd issue. I used this to home in the settings on some elegoo standard translucent resin and yeah, this and a few other calibration prints came out better than I hoped, both default settings to strart with and homing it down. But in really printing something... no matter what it was, or the orientation of the object... the side facing down printed flawlessly. But the side facing up, facing the build plate and around supports looked to 'gum up' or colect a mass of resin and cure it as well. These all being prints I've had no isues with in other resins. So the side facing the build plate would come out gunked up, thick globs everywhere, bad warping and so on. I'd share photos but youtube has been auto deleting all comments with links in them, even if I try and get fancy with it.
Could this be just a bad batch of resin? Or some other factor I'm unaware of when it comes to clear/transparent resin? Could it be due to printing in winter though the temp inside and around the printer are with in the working range? It just seems no matter how I adjusted the settings even using settings ment for like the standard gray the same thing. If facing to the side or away from build plate, prints sharp and clear... face build plate and it's a mess.
I am going to be switching back to the gray just to be sure something isn't badly fudging up. But this is starting to bother me as I was really looking forward to doing a few things with the translucent.
Thanks for sharing mate, this gunk that you have on the bottom layers when you use transparent resin could be any number of reasons. You've highlighted the main culprits that I reckon it is, old resin and temperature.
Resin does last a long while sealed up and out of the sun. Make sure that you have filtered it so that there isn't any cured/semi cured resin hidden in there. Its particularly hard to see this with Transparent Resin.
With the right setting temperature can be overcome, I've seen a fellow produce resin prints in the snow (ua-cam.com/video/Ac2-tnCSwQc/v-deo.html).
With the images I can help better, come post them on our Forum 😊
You could dial-in your exposure setting time using a binary search instead of printing multiple times with .1 second variation. save yourself time and material. i still appreciated your video and detailed break down greatly, just a small suggestion.
That's a great idea! Practical uses for computer science 👌
Sorry for my ignorance, what is a Binary search?
@@TheRealViniciusSilva A way to find whether an item is in an ordered set very efficiently. Let's say the set is in ascending order. You'd start with a center item and see whether the value you're looking at is bigger or smaller than the item you want. If it's less you find the middle item in the latter half of the set. If it's greater you find the middle item in the first half the set. Repeat till you find your item, or nothing if the item doesn't exist.
In this case, you can think of the calibration models as a set. If you know, before printing, about what underexposed prints look like, and about what overexposed prints look like, you can use this same process to fine-tune your settings using less time and material.
When you say you have to do another exposure test with a new resin, do you mean retesting the resin of the same kind, a resin of a different kind, or both?
Nice question, resins of the same brand but different colours/transparency are definitely worth re-running these tests as the exposure light will travel through the resins differently (in regards to both penetration and dispersal through the liquid).
An argument can also be made for re-testing the exact same brand and type of resin if your are using a new bottle (as variance can occur between batches from the manufacturer) but normally you will be good to go with the same settings.
Does this apply to water-washable resin as well? they are trying to say 60s burn in and 8s normal layer. Idk if the composition is different or something by my prints so far are basically glued to the build plate and damn near impossible to remove without alot of working it. I'm order a flex plate so that won't matter soon but one of my prints were so welded on that it damaged parts of the plate trying to remove it.
Got the same problem but I don’t think it's the resin it's the files settings because the test models I've got work really and get off the plate easily...
Having a flex plate is definitely the best solution to removing models. 60 second burn in seems too long to me, that length of time would get the resin and tank pretty hot, particularly on Monochrome Screen Printers. I have not used water soluble resin however I would run some test using significantly lower Burn in layer times.
If careful a razor blade is the perfect tool to lift up an edge to then get the metal spatula underneath to remove the printed model.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks! My flex plate just came in, and yea after talking to a facebook group more about it I ran some of your tests and found around 40 sec bottom and 4.5 normal exposure seem to be pretty close for the water wash. I'm having issues now with prints with supports just getting peeled from the supports but I think that my fep sheet is ruined so I bought some ptfe lube and new sheets, hoping that fixes the problem as I even tested it with a ton of supports and its still getting ripped off. instead of a thump it sounds like a bandaid getting peeled off.
Oh jeez, the caveats at the end were depressing. To hear you describe it, I should run a test print series before EVERY print. My climate is constantly changing, the age of my filament and printer are constantly changing, and of course, my resin batch mumber is changing.
Where is the dxf file for the Pokémon that was made? I'd love to print that one myself
Here it is on Thingiverse! All credit to Psdwizzard - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132
Would any of this change when using an 8K resin?