I was wondering if one could go from the printed colour to the next by adding xyz amount of colour to reuse the one already in the vat.. which would need the amount of resin left in the tank to know how much to add for the next colour.. this could cut a lot of work if the printer has a function of measuring the left resin...hope you get my point across :D
It is one of those ideas that sounds cool at first but then when you really think about and actually try to do it, you realize why no one else is doing this.
i reckon if you doing 2 maybe 3 max colours it might be worth it.....but, as said ya better off painting, even leaving all the accects and blending etc out and just paint the main colours like this resin one and i still think it would look better🤔...Cheers from A M8 Downunder🙃
This has a use for people using their printers for an income but you would need a few printers running at once to make it worthwhile and then you'd have to print each colour on a separate printer to prevent needing to swap out the colours which would of course limit what you can do overall unless you have a lot of printers or don't mind the odd colour change when you need to print a different part, I don't think this is useful for hobbyists
For gloves I use the one for kitchen, the thick one. After I'm finished I rub some isopropyle alcool to "clean it" and I suspend it for drying. After that I never touch it, I only touch the rim when I want to put it on.
latex slowly lets through stuff from the resin. A box of disposable nitrile gloves can last a good while even if you throw out a pair after each use and its a bit better for your skin (lot of arguments about it online...)
Unfortunately, with resin, material composition matters more than thickness. Both are important but there are certain materials that resin just goes through even if it is thick, like skin for example. So just check how the material your kitchen gloves are made of interacts with resin. Though if you have a workflow where you primarily use tools to interact with contaminated objects it mitigates the risk substantially. I'd advise against cleaning them with IPA, yes, it is excellent at dissolving resin but it interacts that way with most similar substances and likely removes the protective coatings from your kitchen gloves and degrades the density of the material further nullifying its protective capacity.
This process looks fiddly as hell, but just as cool! I know allot of folks won't be interested in this but as an artist that doesn't mind the idea of color mixing this REALLY interests me!
Your honest reviews and opinions are very appreciated! It’s difficult to find unbiased information out there, so I feel like you are providing a wonderful service to the 3d printing community. Thank you!
I think there is potential for very specific uses......for example I produce (and sell) replacement ears for a well known robot dog. I already buy different colour resins and mix my own colours. If I could scan an original ear, put the colour in the prusa data base thingy and get a formula to produce the perfect (and repeatable) colour it would be a game changer for me. I could then make up a vat of each colour I need and print like crazy. The fact I could repeat the colour exactly when I run out of resin would be an added bonus. Oh....and the prusa XL is AWESOMLY AMAZING. ;)
There is a dye set specifically for UV resin. Instead of being large volumes of resin it's super concentrated dye. Then all you're doing is using pure white / clear resin and adding very small amounts of dye. Still somewhat a pita to clean bit I've never had issues with the excess resin with the S4U build plate messing with the color. I do have multiple build plates so I can hang them for long drip-off periods. Micropipettes work amazing for that style of resin tinting too!
@@FauxHammer yes sir! Someone mentioned this in my group chat and I just follow this channel instantly! Really appreciate your support and now I know there is a different way of printing my work.
@@Rockyq_Mecha Thanks Mate, And yeah, for your Gunpla models, I could see that as an application for the different pieces/ this was probably a bit of a tougher activity, but as I said, designers such as yourself have never considered designing things like this in colour-based components. I;m curious if this may change now.... But as others have said, It's probably just easier to paint the parts... Sanding resin is not the best...
@@FauxHammer tools are always evolving that drives how design carries out too. I will always taking that consideration into my design. Most gunpla builders prefer airbrushing but when stepping out to other toy/print sections multi color printing may be more preferred.
I have been using my Saturn 4 Ultras almost constantly and figured out a method to clean the plates on top when doing resin swaps like you mention around 10:10 Take a shallow container that can fit the plate and pour in enough Iso or Alcohol to cover the angled section of the plate and let it sit for a few. The resin will dissolve into the alcohol enough so that when you come back to agitate it and shake it side to side to get the alcohol flowing around it. The rest of the resin just flows off and then you can just let it air dry before putting back in the printer. It won't perfectly clean all of it but it will clean more than scraping and wiping it down.
I think it could be useful for articulated figures, the plastics is dyed for those, but then it would need to be scratch resistant so you don't get the resin dust from joints grinding against each others I wouldn't use it but it's a good option for someone who wants to color mix resin
Dude, you are the master of show don't tell. You could have been like, this is a huge pain in the ass. But you show us all this cleaning you gotta do as you switch colors.
This was awesome Ross. Thanks for trying this out. When I was in an Automotive store in NYC I saw reusable Nitril Gloves that came in a pack. They had several varieties, the thicker gloves seemed the easiest to wash off with water.
colour resin kits have been out for ages. i was using them 5 years ago though the bottles kits where more dyes rather than pre mixed resin colours.. all we needed back then was the white resin and black resin of your own choice. but its always good to see other companies bringing out there own version of colour kits..
The way to get it easier is to have an array of peristaltic pumps with a bottle of each color you specifically need. This way you'd also have an auto-refill option, but the drawback is that you would have a little bit of color contamination from not completely cleaning the vat or the plate. That might not even be an issue depending on the quantity though.
I would like to see Epson get into the 3d printing market. Using a ink jet method, where most of the print center is white and the outside is printed with the color. Then a uv light scans over the top per layer to harden. For supports you could use the material that dissolves in water. With that method you could get true color and extremely high resolution with very little waste.
I design tabletop terrain and currently a tabletop game. I could absolutely be using this for many reasons. Player tokens, terrains structures that would match my painting decisions.
This is very practical for board game meeples and for war gaming if you're printing vehicles and don't want to go through the hassle of using an learning how to airbrush. Because brush painting vehicles makes them look like garbage. Mix one large batch of the colour you want and store it for later. Good luck trying to colour match your paint to do touch ups from chipping 6 months down the line. Even after a pre primer bath and a post paint clear coat vehicles are always chipping.
I use thick rubber gloves you'd normally use for dish washing. You can get them in any supermarket. They last ages as you can clean them with alcohol or just leave out in the sun for resin to harden.
I don’t use gloves. I just regrow hands from the smoldering nubs every few days. Checkmate Big Nitrile. Also, the attachable grab handle for the S4U build plate is a game changer. No more dropped plates and it has a built in hanger for drips.
It's a very easy system to use, it seems! One step closer to a hobby full color resin printer. (One can dream afterall) There are some silicone gloves that last a little longer than the single use nitrile gloves. You could also use dishwashing nitrile gloves. Those are pretty sturdy and easy to clean.
I jumped on the sl1 train day 1. It’s a very nice paper weight that prints very nice models. I also have to scale most models down typically 50 to 80 % just to fit anything on its adorable little build plate. It genuinely feels like printing on a business card. It’s painful… and I love it
This is VERY interesting for me. I have a small print farm as a side project in my company and wish to make resin figurines that are using colored resin. So I will definitely try this out when I have time to add resin printers to my farm.
About the only thing I can see a use case for this (coupled with the cost) would be if you've got an engineering cut out model that requires very specific colours... even then it'd be far less hassle/more than likely faster just to paint the thing once printed. I'd just stick to painting the resin once printed in a neutral base colour personally. As for the grip issue on the build plate, thanks to your review, I did a simple little finger grip design and printed them off in TPU (on the harder end of the shore scale) and stuck them on with a bit of tesa tape (I used this stuff to stick on iMac screens after doing SSD upgrades, they aren't coming off easily), no more grip issues.
This excites me. I have a long term desire to model and print some figurines and was already planning to print them in individual parts using different coloured resins. This kinda system just leans into that. It would be good if this system could be expanded to include ABS-like resins. If it did.. this seems like.. it would be main main resin system of choice for "final product" and and other pre-coloured resins would be relegated to prototype work.
Branding with CMYK matching would be a great use here. Whether a small shop selling things, an Educational Institution or anything like that being able to 100% match and comply with a particular color without painting would be an excellent use case. But for most hobbyists its more of a novelty for sure.
This is a really neat idea. I personally don’t like the idea of all the mess which is why I don’t have resin printers. That’s why I need fauxhammer to review these products and printers! I would consider this product if I did print in resin though. I don’t enjoy painting, and this feels like less waste compared to say a Bambu AMS multicolor print. Very cool stuff. I’d love to see you review the Prusa printers if you get a chance!
I think its really good for industrial design prototypes where the parts needs to be a certain color while keeping dimensional accuracy to allow for assembly and disassembly. Also the bare plastic look is still quite different from a paint finish
I think if you need a very specific color and need a lot of that specific color this could be nice and I think the idea is really cool. I've been messing with dying clear resin to have translucent minis for some different D&D monsters so I get the idea of wanting to make a specific resin color. But with all of the cleaning and possible waste it feels even more wasteful than multicolor FDM printing. It's a really cool idea, just not sure how practical it is.
I agree just buy the rein in colors you need. I already will mix resin in the vat. Only way i could afford this would be if I had. Several vats to just swap out. I do most prints in simple base colors and the few transparent colors i done has been nice and clear. As for the gloves i simple stopped most the time as i am only removing pieces from build plate after sitting for a few days so what resin i do get on my is either washed off as i put piece in wash station or i scrub them down in bathroom after done.
This could be amazing with a separate unit that makes the color for you. Like normal paint mixers, you key up the color you want and the volume of material you need and it mixes and pumps that exact amount out. We're still left with a waste color that isn't used however and I do not have an easy fix for that. Maybe a whole new printer with the system built in and rotating up colors... So you slice up build plates in the slicer and set colors to them it calculates what colors it can start with and then if possible shift to another color by adding more material to it. It seems like more trouble than it's worth but they said that about color 2D printers as well.
I don’t know how i feel about this. My solution to this has always been to just add pigments and record the amounts. It doesn’t really change the print times and it creates really vibrant colors and it is rather cheap. Mica cost next to nothing as do most pure artist pigments. But this would definitely make it more accessible. Also I just don’t bother with thorough cleaning between color changes as long as you get rid of most of it I’ve found that most of the time you can’t tell the variation unless you are looking really closely. And I usually will do some painting over it after using a clear primer. It just makes priming and base layers a lot faster.
Even though the HeyGears' resins are in proprietary bottles, 3rd party resins can still be used, including water washable resins. Print quality is still top notch without the ridiculous cost. Also, I hope Prusa sends you their printers. Cheers.
Prusa get this man a printer ! ! ! as for the product as you said the resin printing cleaning is a paint in a butt so i will stick in printing and painting rather the printing cleaning printing etc
@@nilbobby Of all the Gunpla I showed in this video, do you know how many I've gotten done since filming it? 1 arm of MG Providence - and that one wasn't even in the shot!!!
Disposable gloves was something I moved away from really early on with Resin printing. Instead I just got some slightly heavier latex gloves, similar to what you'd use for washing up the dishes. They work great and the one pair has lasted nearly 3 years.
@@firelion98 Every time that I use them. In terms of how I clean them I just put my hands into the IPA bath that I rinse my model in, and then I dry off with a paper towel and it goes with the rest of the waste.
I make custom mixes for rigidity or flexibility and with different colors when using clear resin. Haven’t done much with it but, this seems like a nice way to go.
I use LANON 3 Pairs Nitrile Chemical Resistant Gloves, Reusable Heavy-Duty Work Gloves, Acid, Alkali and Oil Protection, EN 374, Non-Slip from Amazon. About £16 for three pairs and I change them every four months (I'm not massively heavy user). I still use disposables when I need to do some detailed work but find I use significantly less
May have helped if the plan included printing in order of lightest to darkest colors. Possibly eliminating the extreme cleanup till the end as the large volume of darker color would overwhelm the traces of lighter color from prior print
Thanks for trying this so we don't have to. Seriously. Resin printing is already enough hassle with cleanup much less cleaning up over and over. I have one printer, and I dread using it most of the time. My FDM printers get used weekly, sometimes daily. I have even swapped a 0.2 nozzle in to get really nice quality. But when you need something truly amazing, even a 4k resin printer will produce something impressive when compared to a well tuned FDM with a 0.2 nozzle going super slow. I hate resin printing. It stinks, it's way more harmful and it irritates me that I love what it can do! 😜
Besides multicolor printing of a model assembled from multiple parts, I can see a useful and not so complicated potential use for the CMYK resin kit: making a simpler monochromatic, monolithic object in any desired particular tint that does not exist off the shelf (because admittedly, there are not so many resin colors available out there compared to FDM filaments). As some other people already commented, you can alternatively spray paint the object afterward, instead of mass color-impregnated during printing. YMMV
G'day Mr Hammer .... Thankyou for all the effort into making this perticular vid....and your subject for the bust was an excellent choice (im big 50yr old Anime Nerd or Otaku by japanese . It give me memories of the late 80's an 90's collecting Anime from Madman, all VHS. Anime back then was more dark than most today but there is always a new One Piece and Dragonball out there waiting. Your all resin bust of Eva-1 was brilliant but im afraid of short term colour loss. Big Cheers from A M8 Downunder🙃....ps im a massive Gundam and Macross fan when it comes to Mecha, you picked another great type of kit and take care those things go up in value if only a short run🤑
hi, you can also simply use pigment concentrates for thermoset resins (eg. "UVO" by smooth on, meant fo 2k polyurethanes and epoxies) and tint any translucent resin you like - i use anycubic standard/tough/tough ultra which are all available in clear, white, black, grey. one of those pigments is ~20€ for 150ml and goes a long way. And no, those are not the cheap alcohol based kind that dont get you a significant colour change, these are for rich, opaque results!
@@FauxHammer If you start with a white or gray resin base everything will turn pastel, but with a clear Resin Base you get the colours as bright as your Pigment (which are usually quite vibrant)
One way to avoid using gloves is to never touch resin-y parts. Put whole plate into bath and let it wash. Let it dry and pop the model off. Only after that becomes first touch with model, removing supports, and final cure, and one can use paper towel to avoid direct contact. Yes, vapors will stick to plate handle, but not much. If so, clean it before taking it out of the printer. Cleaning the vat is totally different story, though after scraping resin out with silicon spatula, they (vat and spatula) can go to wash as well. Or use glove in one hand, which never touches anything clean outside the print area (cover, touch display, itchy nose), while the free hand never touches anything that is or has been inside print area. However, if one is or has become *sensitive* to resin, use as many gloves as needed (or ditch resin printing entirely, there are nice filament printers with decent print quality). ----- Don't waste unused colored resins - bottle them up for generic gray, or 💩 color - or if not mixed, acid trip 😉 ----- Like color-mixing filament printers, as long as one can't put 100% M and 100% Y, the result will not be 100% red. At least that's how CMYK behaves in press and color (paper) printers, e it inkjet or laser (yes, K is almost fully reduced from C, M and Y, but it's different). Or maybe Prusa has actually thought this out (often they have thought things out) and the resins are so saturated, that their mixes can produce vibrant colors 🤔
I use thicker reusable nitrile gloves. After handling the resin I always put it outside to dry, sometimes I even cure it manually under my UV lights. Gets a bit stiffer but still works (thats what she said)
I like having different vats for different resins. Little plastic wrap and put in the original packaging. For this color idea might be useful. Could print a storage system for them
I think where this would shine is in bigger batches. For print farms, Etsy, people who sell a higher volume, people who have multiple printers, where having the ability to leverage doing full plates or one printer doing one or two parts that require one colour . Another option would faction armies with a base layer colour to then paint over. Having have dedicated colour mixes where your mixing colours in larger volumes is where this would be useful. Sure it works in a one off model but as you showed its a lot of extra work vs painting.
As always, fantastic review! I love the colors you can make/use, but I also understand the hellish clean-up aftet per print. 😢 Also, you should stop listening to those people who are negative or try to get a rise out of you. You are one of the best, if not the best person when it comes to resin 3D printing. As you provide great information and humorous commentary for all of us to enjoy. Also, spreadsheets rock!! Thank you for not only be a fan to us Anime/Mecha fans, but thank you for your hard work and dedication. Also Prusa, send him a printer already!
I love it. I could totally see various use cases for it, but as my resin printer is still waiting to be used as I work through other projects, I am not in a position to recommend Prusa keep making it.
I agree that this sort of thing could definitely work for different colored factions. I am developing a skirmish game and the idea of having a relatively durable resin in specific colors could be beneficial.
The only use I can really see for this is if you need a specific color that's not commercially available. For instance, I needed a real plum-colored purple for a project a couple months back, but the only purple I could find was more lavender than purple. I had no other choice than to use it, but it would've been nice to mix the shade I needed with this -- even as expensive as it is.
It’s pretty useful when we don’t have enough space to have a SLA and a FDM machines. So I can do FDM like parts with my SLA machine. To partially resolve the problem of the cleaning, it would be the good moment to buy add vats. One per color for those who use the same colors (like gunpla like you said).
Heygears has a CMYK kit too (although it is way more expensive).... It has its uses but from what I've seen, most people use inks to colour their resin so this comes down to quality and saturation of the colour itself.
Nice idea, but ...... at the end of the day the models I build (model railway, wagons, coaches and locomotives) get spray painted and then lined out, so I'm going to have to at least apply a primer and topcoat of the right colour(s) etc etc. So probably a non-runner for me. Gloves nitrile - don't use latex gloves as the resin can leech through. I also use a cotton liner glove under the nitrile glove, as the nitrile gloves cause a sweat rash on my hands. Also makes the gloves easier to remove so last a bit langer. Whole heartedly agree about the Saturn 4 build plate - if a non-self leveling traditional 4 screw replacemnt became available I'll put it on pre-order now.
Hmm this does give me an idea for CMYK painting though. In the packaging manufacturing space: they often use progressively layered stencils, 1 for each primary color. They spray cyan, change the stencil, spray magenta, change the stencil, etc. you're able to get full color printing very very quickly. This of course is on a 2d plane. What if, for resin prints: we printed out a set of 3d stencils surrounding the model, and you do the similar CMYK stencils that packaging printers use? This could even be built into slicers. Hmm I'm going to experiment...
The price drop at the end was hilarious. It's an interesting product, but you hit all the points already why it wouldn't work for me. Thanks for showing it off, though
About the resin gloves: I use Ansell TouchNTuff 92-500 gloves. A bit more expensive, but I can use them for many print sessions (I put a L and R on the back of the gloves, so I keep putting them on the same hand). The crappy cheap black nitrile gloves sometimes don't last 1 session. About the coloured resin. If you can afford it, buy it. But I think printing a model with 1 colour and painting it, is cheaper and less of a hassle.
I'm probably the target market for this in that I'm not great at painting models and I just wanna have cool looking prints on my shelves vs. standard grey models. That being said, the amount of faff involved, makes me wanna spend time learning how to paint my resin models as I'm sure I'll get a much better result in the long run.
Just because something CAN be done doesn't mean it SHOULD be done. I think this holds potential if you need to hit a certain colour, but not sure it's worth all the extra work and cost overall.
This kit isnt so mutch about multi coloured prints, as a colour matching kit. Like going to the DIY store and getting a paint matched. I could do with matching some prints to some composite decking boards, to make edging strips to hide corner joints. Now what would be cool, is if we had a machine that could scan the colour of an object and dispense the exact amount of each resin to replicate it.
The main thing that comes to mind is these are more scratch resistant than painting on a model, maybe for flexible parts that need to be in a very certain color? Seems like a pretty small usecase. You'd have to be pretty obsessive about your colors to want this.
How do you feel it compares to just adding alcohol inks (or something like that) to a bottle of white/clear resin? For gloves I switched to some 'tough marigolds', wipe them down with Meths-soaked kitchen roll cloth a bit and then just treat them as if they're always contaminated (which they probably are)
You can use ANY acrylic inks, mica powder, pigments and even glitter with SLA resin with absolutely no problems at all!! I made a few YT videos a while ago using uv inks and glow in the worlds most powerful glow powder. Personally I think UV inks are best because your prints glow like uranium glass under black light.. Please don't waste money on a kit just use your favourite abs resin add a few drops of ink or a spoon of pigment and BOOM your in business, you can even use colour changing pigment!!
Always like funny bits of your videos. BTW I use Hygiene Plus Nitro Strength Disposable Gloves comes Blue box and with little knobs on the fingers one pair lasts several days as I have a water bucket to risen off Iso. I also put baby powder in the glove to make it easy to put your hands into them.
As for uses I could see this resin “ink” style being used by small businesses for custom coloured /branding/promotional items especially in small orders by a startup or new 3d printing business. I’ve never owned a3d printer (or even owned one) but as someone who knows about design I know that brand recognition is often achieved best by colour consistency and since many manufacturers require larger orders than achievable for a new/small business I can see this as a good use case.
Personally I think it’s a great idea it’s just the we go about it Disposable cups measuring by weight that would save a lot of cleaning then possibly putting a clear plastic wrap on the vat which was easily removable that would only leave the building plate to clean job done in 5 minutes
With all the faff that you had to go through: it makes far more sense to just paint them. Even if you had them seperated by colors: spraying a base paint with an airbrush is far far easier than doing so kuch vat cleaning. As it is i just buy white or grey resins and never fully clean the vat until im not going to uwe the orinter for a while.
I'd use permanent nitrile gloves for this, the long ones you can use to handle even cold reactive fabric dye without consequence. Where will you be on the Spiel?
I think this is nice if you have your branding colors to print. This way you have maybe 3 colors you can mix in bigger quantity. And maybe you have 3 separate printers than you don't even have to clean it often.
I would love something like this to make action figures…..but with that…. It would really depend on the scratch resistance and anti powdering of the resin itself. If this is the case and has those features…. This would be freakin awesome
This resin would be good for multi part prototype work that needs the colour all the way through the resin print, I love painting my Warhammer prints but printing large models tanks, titans and the like in a base colour you need just think of all the paint you would save. No mention of price in the vid any idea as to cost?
Yeah your summary is the real elephant in the room. The ide is nice, and even if we disregard the insane amount of work, many of us print models that we get from creators and those models are simply not made for multicolor printing. Personally I HATE painting, and if I could skip right to the end result with this I totally would. It may be a crap ton of work, but its technical work that anyone can do unlike painting which requires, you know, skill. But without these beautiful creators making models broken out by color it is pointless :(
The price seems reasonable to me - its quite a few KG of resin in the kit, and per KG that doesn't seem stupid. Far from the cheapest resins, but equally not the most expensive either. The real value comes from the colour calculator, that at least in theory will let you get reliable, repeatable results. I think this has plenty of potential, though less in painted miniatures and more in product prototypes, cosplay and the like - good larger objects that humans tend to interact with, and where breaking the parts into colours will be easy. Though it also works to give your miniatures the right hue that you probably don't need to paint everything or worry about undercoats - for that Tomb Kings style army of near infinite terrible units print the parts in the right colour, glue together and dip wash, pick out the odd detail if you want to for a really good tabletop ready horde. But to really maximise it you'd want multiple vats so you can just leave your blends of colour in the vat and not waste so much resin or time on the cleanup. And with a bit of cunning assuming your printer's code is open enough to allow it you could in theory swap vats part way through (multiple times per layer even) to get a part with specific colours where you need it.
Interesting. I think someone can come up with a 9 pocket resin tray, 2 IPA rinse pockets and CMYKW++ colors over the screen, then move the build platform to the needed color, expose it, rinse it, then go to the next position for another color. The 2 + + pockets can be custom colors. Probably someone could take such system to the next level and by changing the exposure profile etc to either mix resins on the fly or dither them to get infinite colors. Probably wouldn't be ridiculously expensive to do it. Tell Prusa to try it, they seem to be interested in this space based on your video. Thank you.
I just used alcohol dye to change the color of my clear resin to a yellow. I don't know if they would work in opaque resins but that is for sure cheaper
thanks for the awesome video! I noticed in your videos you remove the supports after curing it seems, is that the case? I am new to resin printing and I have been removing supports after wash and just before curing, so not sure if I am doing it wrong
I've made colored resins by mixing in alcohol ink. However it all comes out pastel because it would take a lot of ink to make darker colors. And I'm guess the more ink you add the weaker the resin becomes.
So monocure3d has a cymk dye kit where you do the same thing, but it works with any resin, seems like a similar system, but way cheaper and lets you use your favorite resin. It's still a ball ache to clean out each time tho..
Not for me, because I also enjoy the painting process, but I see this is a step towards something cool in the future. PS - Prusa, send Ross some printers.
Honestly, i think it would be easier to spray paint the resin prints rather than change out each vat for a color.
Yeah, Probably would have been
Yes but, if you can print it and clear coat, its fantastic!!!!
@@cgrosbeck That's what I did here. I just didn't put much focus on the clear-coating bit, other than showing the parts on stands
I was wondering if one could go from the printed colour to the next by adding xyz amount of colour to reuse the one already in the vat.. which would need the amount of resin left in the tank to know how much to add for the next colour.. this could cut a lot of work if the printer has a function of measuring the left resin...hope you get my point across :D
Maybe this is an indicator they're going to make it easier to swap resins in their future models with a specific view to enabling this
It is one of those ideas that sounds cool at first but then when you really think about and actually try to do it, you realize why no one else is doing this.
yes! I realised as I was doing it why I don't want to do it
i reckon if you doing 2 maybe 3 max colours it might be worth it.....but, as said ya better off painting, even leaving all the accects and blending etc out and just paint the main colours like this resin one and i still think it would look better🤔...Cheers from A M8 Downunder🙃
This has a use for people using their printers for an income but you would need a few printers running at once to make it worthwhile and then you'd have to print each colour on a separate printer to prevent needing to swap out the colours which would of course limit what you can do overall unless you have a lot of printers or don't mind the odd colour change when you need to print a different part, I don't think this is useful for hobbyists
@@bencastor9207exactly what i thought.
Cheers for the shout out, you legend! great video!
I've subbed to ya !!
Funny enough, I went to sub to you, only to realize that I allready had, and I hadn't subbed to fauxhammer 😂
For gloves I use the one for kitchen, the thick one. After I'm finished I rub some isopropyle alcool to "clean it" and I suspend it for drying. After that I never touch it, I only touch the rim when I want to put it on.
latex slowly lets through stuff from the resin. A box of disposable nitrile gloves can last a good while even if you throw out a pair after each use and its a bit better for your skin (lot of arguments about it online...)
Unfortunately, with resin, material composition matters more than thickness. Both are important but there are certain materials that resin just goes through even if it is thick, like skin for example. So just check how the material your kitchen gloves are made of interacts with resin. Though if you have a workflow where you primarily use tools to interact with contaminated objects it mitigates the risk substantially. I'd advise against cleaning them with IPA, yes, it is excellent at dissolving resin but it interacts that way with most similar substances and likely removes the protective coatings from your kitchen gloves and degrades the density of the material further nullifying its protective capacity.
@@Rainpub It takes some searching but Nitrile kitchen gloves can be found and are very reusable. I have a couple pairs myself.
To be honest, you’re like one of maybe three people that I follow their advise on resin printing that’s on UA-cam. And yes, Prusa, send him a printer.
6:26 "Foreskin tones" 😂
Haha came here to post the exact same thing
This process looks fiddly as hell, but just as cool! I know allot of folks won't be interested in this but as an artist that doesn't mind the idea of color mixing this REALLY interests me!
Your honest reviews and opinions are very appreciated! It’s difficult to find unbiased information out there, so I feel like you are providing a wonderful service to the 3d printing community. Thank you!
I think there is potential for very specific uses......for example I produce (and sell) replacement ears for a well known robot dog. I already buy different colour resins and mix my own colours. If I could scan an original ear, put the colour in the prusa data base thingy and get a formula to produce the perfect (and repeatable) colour it would be a game changer for me. I could then make up a vat of each colour I need and print like crazy. The fact I could repeat the colour exactly when I run out of resin would be an added bonus.
Oh....and the prusa XL is AWESOMLY AMAZING. ;)
Great Suggestion!
Got confirmation this Morning... XL IS COMING!!!! I'M SO EXCITED!
There is a dye set specifically for UV resin. Instead of being large volumes of resin it's super concentrated dye. Then all you're doing is using pure white / clear resin and adding very small amounts of dye.
Still somewhat a pita to clean bit I've never had issues with the excess resin with the S4U build plate messing with the color. I do have multiple build plates so I can hang them for long drip-off periods.
Micropipettes work amazing for that style of resin tinting too!
The cheeky size comparison bit was hilarious. Don’t let the haters keep you from being funny! Thanks for the awesome video as always!
Thank you for your shout out friend! Great build!
You Saw it!!!! Mate, i am such a huge fan of your work.... Those designs blew me away! every single one is incredible!!!!!
@@FauxHammer yes sir! Someone mentioned this in my group chat and I just follow this channel instantly! Really appreciate your support and now I know there is a different way of printing my work.
@@Rockyq_Mecha Thanks Mate, And yeah, for your Gunpla models, I could see that as an application for the different pieces/ this was probably a bit of a tougher activity, but as I said, designers such as yourself have never considered designing things like this in colour-based components. I;m curious if this may change now....
But as others have said, It's probably just easier to paint the parts... Sanding resin is not the best...
@@FauxHammer tools are always evolving that drives how design carries out too. I will always taking that consideration into my design. Most gunpla builders prefer airbrushing but when stepping out to other toy/print sections multi color printing may be more preferred.
Definitely giggles and likes rather than cancelled ........ 😃
I have been using my Saturn 4 Ultras almost constantly and figured out a method to clean the plates on top when doing resin swaps like you mention around 10:10
Take a shallow container that can fit the plate and pour in enough Iso or Alcohol to cover the angled section of the plate and let it sit for a few. The resin will dissolve into the alcohol enough so that when you come back to agitate it and shake it side to side to get the alcohol flowing around it. The rest of the resin just flows off and then you can just let it air dry before putting back in the printer. It won't perfectly clean all of it but it will clean more than scraping and wiping it down.
That looked like a WHOLE lot of work for not enough payoff at all, thanks for putting this out sir!
If you are going to do this... best to get multiple vats with some type of sealing system so then you can let it sit aside and use it the next time.
I think it could be useful for articulated figures, the plastics is dyed for those, but then it would need to be scratch resistant so you don't get the resin dust from joints grinding against each others
I wouldn't use it but it's a good option for someone who wants to color mix resin
Dude, you are the master of show don't tell. You could have been like, this is a huge pain in the ass. But you show us all this cleaning you gotta do as you switch colors.
Send this man prusa printers.
This was awesome Ross. Thanks for trying this out. When I was in an Automotive store in NYC I saw reusable Nitril Gloves that came in a pack. They had several varieties, the thicker gloves seemed the easiest to wash off with water.
colour resin kits have been out for ages. i was using them 5 years ago though the bottles kits where more dyes rather than pre mixed resin colours.. all we needed back then was the white resin and black resin of your own choice. but its always good to see other companies bringing out there own version of colour kits..
The way to get it easier is to have an array of peristaltic pumps with a bottle of each color you specifically need. This way you'd also have an auto-refill option, but the drawback is that you would have a little bit of color contamination from not completely cleaning the vat or the plate. That might not even be an issue depending on the quantity though.
Yeah you’d need to clean the plate fully between colours too. I’m sure it’s possible. But tricky and probably wasteful
I would like to see Epson get into the 3d printing market.
Using a ink jet method, where most of the print center is white and the outside is printed with the color.
Then a uv light scans over the top per layer to harden. For supports you could use the material that dissolves in water. With that method you could get true color and extremely high resolution with very little waste.
I design tabletop terrain and currently a tabletop game. I could absolutely be using this for many reasons. Player tokens, terrains structures that would match my painting decisions.
This is very practical for board game meeples and for war gaming if you're printing vehicles and don't want to go through the hassle of using an learning how to airbrush. Because brush painting vehicles makes them look like garbage. Mix one large batch of the colour you want and store it for later. Good luck trying to colour match your paint to do touch ups from chipping 6 months down the line. Even after a pre primer bath and a post paint clear coat vehicles are always chipping.
Yeah I can totally see that
I use thick rubber gloves you'd normally use for dish washing. You can get them in any supermarket. They last ages as you can clean them with alcohol or just leave out in the sun for resin to harden.
I don’t use gloves. I just regrow hands from the smoldering nubs every few days. Checkmate Big Nitrile. Also, the attachable grab handle for the S4U build plate is a game changer. No more dropped plates and it has a built in hanger for drips.
Alot of us saw the three primary colours in the intro and uttered the "Eva?"
It's a very easy system to use, it seems! One step closer to a hobby full color resin printer. (One can dream afterall)
There are some silicone gloves that last a little longer than the single use nitrile gloves. You could also use dishwashing nitrile gloves. Those are pretty sturdy and easy to clean.
I jumped on the sl1 train day 1. It’s a very nice paper weight that prints very nice models. I also have to scale most models down typically 50 to 80 % just to fit anything on its adorable little build plate. It genuinely feels like printing on a business card. It’s painful… and I love it
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
You review Printers like I Review Printers.
This is VERY interesting for me. I have a small print farm as a side project in my company and wish to make resin figurines that are using colored resin. So I will definitely try this out when I have time to add resin printers to my farm.
About the only thing I can see a use case for this (coupled with the cost) would be if you've got an engineering cut out model that requires very specific colours... even then it'd be far less hassle/more than likely faster just to paint the thing once printed. I'd just stick to painting the resin once printed in a neutral base colour personally.
As for the grip issue on the build plate, thanks to your review, I did a simple little finger grip design and printed them off in TPU (on the harder end of the shore scale) and stuck them on with a bit of tesa tape (I used this stuff to stick on iMac screens after doing SSD upgrades, they aren't coming off easily), no more grip issues.
This excites me. I have a long term desire to model and print some figurines and was already planning to print them in individual parts using different coloured resins. This kinda system just leans into that. It would be good if this system could be expanded to include ABS-like resins. If it did.. this seems like.. it would be main main resin system of choice for "final product" and and other pre-coloured resins would be relegated to prototype work.
Branding with CMYK matching would be a great use here. Whether a small shop selling things, an Educational Institution or anything like that being able to 100% match and comply with a particular color without painting would be an excellent use case. But for most hobbyists its more of a novelty for sure.
This is a really neat idea. I personally don’t like the idea of all the mess which is why I don’t have resin printers. That’s why I need fauxhammer to review these products and printers!
I would consider this product if I did print in resin though. I don’t enjoy painting, and this feels like less waste compared to say a Bambu AMS multicolor print.
Very cool stuff. I’d love to see you review the Prusa printers if you get a chance!
I think its really good for industrial design prototypes where the parts needs to be a certain color while keeping dimensional accuracy to allow for assembly and disassembly. Also the bare plastic look is still quite different from a paint finish
I think if you need a very specific color and need a lot of that specific color this could be nice and I think the idea is really cool. I've been messing with dying clear resin to have translucent minis for some different D&D monsters so I get the idea of wanting to make a specific resin color.
But with all of the cleaning and possible waste it feels even more wasteful than multicolor FDM printing. It's a really cool idea, just not sure how practical it is.
I agree just buy the rein in colors you need. I already will mix resin in the vat. Only way i could afford this would be if I had. Several vats to just swap out. I do most prints in simple base colors and the few transparent colors i done has been nice and clear. As for the gloves i simple stopped most the time as i am only removing pieces from build plate after sitting for a few days so what resin i do get on my is either washed off as i put piece in wash station or i scrub them down in bathroom after done.
This could be amazing with a separate unit that makes the color for you. Like normal paint mixers, you key up the color you want and the volume of material you need and it mixes and pumps that exact amount out. We're still left with a waste color that isn't used however and I do not have an easy fix for that. Maybe a whole new printer with the system built in and rotating up colors... So you slice up build plates in the slicer and set colors to them it calculates what colors it can start with and then if possible shift to another color by adding more material to it. It seems like more trouble than it's worth but they said that about color 2D printers as well.
I don’t know how i feel about this. My solution to this has always been to just add pigments and record the amounts. It doesn’t really change the print times and it creates really vibrant colors and it is rather cheap. Mica cost next to nothing as do most pure artist pigments. But this would definitely make it more accessible. Also I just don’t bother with thorough cleaning between color changes as long as you get rid of most of it I’ve found that most of the time you can’t tell the variation unless you are looking really closely. And I usually will do some painting over it after using a clear primer. It just makes priming and base layers a lot faster.
Even though the HeyGears' resins are in proprietary bottles, 3rd party resins can still be used, including water washable resins.
Print quality is still top notch without the ridiculous cost. Also, I hope Prusa sends you their printers. Cheers.
Prusa get this man a printer ! ! !
as for the product as you said the resin printing cleaning is a paint in a butt
so i will stick in printing and painting rather the printing cleaning printing etc
They sent me a Mk4 already! and have said they will send an XL. I'm so excited!
RockyQ's models are incredible nd seeing his work randomly pop up in your video has made me very happy
Yeah right... I only knew of the Eva bust as James had it, but yeah, this guy's stuff is awesome!
@@FauxHammer I would absolutely LOVE to see you tackle one of his UG tier builds
@@nilbobby Of all the Gunpla I showed in this video, do you know how many I've gotten done since filming it?
1 arm of MG Providence - and that one wasn't even in the shot!!!
Disposable gloves was something I moved away from really early on with Resin printing. Instead I just got some slightly heavier latex gloves, similar to what you'd use for washing up the dishes. They work great and the one pair has lasted nearly 3 years.
How do you clean them?
Thanks!
@@firelion98 Every time that I use them. In terms of how I clean them I just put my hands into the IPA bath that I rinse my model in, and then I dry off with a paper towel and it goes with the rest of the waste.
I make custom mixes for rigidity or flexibility and with different colors when using clear resin. Haven’t done much with it but, this seems like a nice way to go.
I use LANON 3 Pairs Nitrile Chemical Resistant Gloves, Reusable Heavy-Duty Work Gloves, Acid, Alkali and Oil Protection, EN 374, Non-Slip from Amazon. About £16 for three pairs and I change them every four months (I'm not massively heavy user). I still use disposables when I need to do some detailed work but find I use significantly less
May have helped if the plan included printing in order of lightest to darkest colors. Possibly eliminating the extreme cleanup till the end as the large volume of darker color would overwhelm the traces of lighter color from prior print
Thanks for trying this so we don't have to. Seriously. Resin printing is already enough hassle with cleanup much less cleaning up over and over. I have one printer, and I dread using it most of the time. My FDM printers get used weekly, sometimes daily. I have even swapped a 0.2 nozzle in to get really nice quality. But when you need something truly amazing, even a 4k resin printer will produce something impressive when compared to a well tuned FDM with a 0.2 nozzle going super slow. I hate resin printing. It stinks, it's way more harmful and it irritates me that I love what it can do! 😜
Besides multicolor printing of a model assembled from multiple parts, I can see a useful and not so complicated potential use for the CMYK resin kit: making a simpler monochromatic, monolithic object in any desired particular tint that does not exist off the shelf (because admittedly, there are not so many resin colors available out there compared to FDM filaments). As some other people already commented, you can alternatively spray paint the object afterward, instead of mass color-impregnated during printing. YMMV
G'day Mr Hammer .... Thankyou for all the effort into making this perticular vid....and your subject for the bust was an excellent choice (im big 50yr old Anime Nerd or Otaku by japanese . It give me memories of the late 80's an 90's collecting Anime from Madman, all VHS. Anime back then was more dark than most today but there is always a new One Piece and Dragonball out there waiting. Your all resin bust of Eva-1 was brilliant but im afraid of short term colour loss. Big Cheers from A M8 Downunder🙃....ps im a massive Gundam and Macross fan when it comes to Mecha, you picked another great type of kit and take care those things go up in value if only a short run🤑
Use dishwashing gloves. They're thick and take a long time to tear, plus they have good grip.
hi, you can also simply use pigment concentrates for thermoset resins (eg. "UVO" by smooth on, meant fo 2k polyurethanes and epoxies) and tint any translucent resin you like - i use anycubic standard/tough/tough ultra which are all available in clear, white, black, grey. one of those pigments is ~20€ for 150ml and goes a long way. And no, those are not the cheap alcohol based kind that dont get you a significant colour change, these are for rich, opaque results!
Doesn’t that end up making quite pastel colours? A few people have suggested this is the case?
@@FauxHammer If you start with a white or gray resin base everything will turn pastel, but with a clear Resin Base you get the colours as bright as your Pigment (which are usually quite vibrant)
One way to avoid using gloves is to never touch resin-y parts. Put whole plate into bath and let it wash. Let it dry and pop the model off. Only after that becomes first touch with model, removing supports, and final cure, and one can use paper towel to avoid direct contact. Yes, vapors will stick to plate handle, but not much. If so, clean it before taking it out of the printer.
Cleaning the vat is totally different story, though after scraping resin out with silicon spatula, they (vat and spatula) can go to wash as well.
Or use glove in one hand, which never touches anything clean outside the print area (cover, touch display, itchy nose), while the free hand never touches anything that is or has been inside print area.
However, if one is or has become *sensitive* to resin, use as many gloves as needed (or ditch resin printing entirely, there are nice filament printers with decent print quality).
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Don't waste unused colored resins - bottle them up for generic gray, or 💩 color - or if not mixed, acid trip 😉
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Like color-mixing filament printers, as long as one can't put 100% M and 100% Y, the result will not be 100% red. At least that's how CMYK behaves in press and color (paper) printers, e it inkjet or laser (yes, K is almost fully reduced from C, M and Y, but it's different). Or maybe Prusa has actually thought this out (often they have thought things out) and the resins are so saturated, that their mixes can produce vibrant colors 🤔
I added a strip of floor anti-slip stickers on my Saturn 4 Ultra plate to prevent slipping after I saw your caution in previous review.
I use thicker reusable nitrile gloves. After handling the resin I always put it outside to dry, sometimes I even cure it manually under my UV lights. Gets a bit stiffer but still works (thats what she said)
I like having different vats for different resins. Little plastic wrap and put in the original packaging. For this color idea might be useful. Could print a storage system for them
fair point, if people wanted to do that on repeat
I think where this would shine is in bigger batches. For print farms, Etsy, people who sell a higher volume, people who have multiple printers, where having the ability to leverage doing full plates or one printer doing one or two parts that require one colour . Another option would faction armies with a base layer colour to then paint over. Having have dedicated colour mixes where your mixing colours in larger volumes is where this would be useful. Sure it works in a one off model but as you showed its a lot of extra work vs painting.
As always, fantastic review! I love the colors you can make/use, but I also understand the hellish clean-up aftet per print. 😢
Also, you should stop listening to those people who are negative or try to get a rise out of you. You are one of the best, if not the best person when it comes to resin 3D printing. As you provide great information and humorous commentary for all of us to enjoy. Also, spreadsheets rock!!
Thank you for not only be a fan to us Anime/Mecha fans, but thank you for your hard work and dedication.
Also Prusa, send him a printer already!
I love it. I could totally see various use cases for it, but as my resin printer is still waiting to be used as I work through other projects, I am not in a position to recommend Prusa keep making it.
I agree that this sort of thing could definitely work for different colored factions. I am developing a skirmish game and the idea of having a relatively durable resin in specific colors could be beneficial.
The only use I can really see for this is if you need a specific color that's not commercially available. For instance, I needed a real plum-colored purple for a project a couple months back, but the only purple I could find was more lavender than purple. I had no other choice than to use it, but it would've been nice to mix the shade I needed with this -- even as expensive as it is.
It’s pretty useful when we don’t have enough space to have a SLA and a FDM machines. So I can do FDM like parts with my SLA machine. To partially resolve the problem of the cleaning, it would be the good moment to buy add vats. One per color for those who use the same colors (like gunpla like you said).
yeah, I can see that being a thing
6:25. "Foreskin tones" or "four skin tones"?
Heygears has a CMYK kit too (although it is way more expensive).... It has its uses but from what I've seen, most people use inks to colour their resin so this comes down to quality and saturation of the colour itself.
Nice idea, but ...... at the end of the day the models I build (model railway, wagons, coaches and locomotives) get spray painted and then lined out, so I'm going to have to at least apply a primer and topcoat of the right colour(s) etc etc. So probably a non-runner for me. Gloves nitrile - don't use latex gloves as the resin can leech through. I also use a cotton liner glove under the nitrile glove, as the nitrile gloves cause a sweat rash on my hands. Also makes the gloves easier to remove so last a bit langer. Whole heartedly agree about the Saturn 4 build plate - if a non-self leveling traditional 4 screw replacemnt became available I'll put it on pre-order now.
Hmm this does give me an idea for CMYK painting though.
In the packaging manufacturing space: they often use progressively layered stencils, 1 for each primary color. They spray cyan, change the stencil, spray magenta, change the stencil, etc. you're able to get full color printing very very quickly.
This of course is on a 2d plane.
What if, for resin prints: we printed out a set of 3d stencils surrounding the model, and you do the similar CMYK stencils that packaging printers use? This could even be built into slicers.
Hmm I'm going to experiment...
The price drop at the end was hilarious. It's an interesting product, but you hit all the points already why it wouldn't work for me. Thanks for showing it off, though
i guess the color consistency is what matters, compared to premixed colors. i have seen different colors on apparently same-color resin
About the resin gloves: I use Ansell TouchNTuff 92-500 gloves. A bit more expensive, but I can use them for many print sessions (I put a L and R on the back of the gloves, so I keep putting them on the same hand). The crappy cheap black nitrile gloves sometimes don't last 1 session.
About the coloured resin. If you can afford it, buy it. But I think printing a model with 1 colour and painting it, is cheaper and less of a hassle.
I'm probably the target market for this in that I'm not great at painting models and I just wanna have cool looking prints on my shelves vs. standard grey models. That being said, the amount of faff involved, makes me wanna spend time learning how to paint my resin models as I'm sure I'll get a much better result in the long run.
You would. And for stuff like this. You can just airbrush each part
Just because something CAN be done doesn't mean it SHOULD be done.
I think this holds potential if you need to hit a certain colour, but not sure it's worth all the extra work and cost overall.
This kit isnt so mutch about multi coloured prints, as a colour matching kit. Like going to the DIY store and getting a paint matched. I could do with matching some prints to some composite decking boards, to make edging strips to hide corner joints.
Now what would be cool, is if we had a machine that could scan the colour of an object and dispense the exact amount of each resin to replicate it.
The main thing that comes to mind is these are more scratch resistant than painting on a model, maybe for flexible parts that need to be in a very certain color? Seems like a pretty small usecase. You'd have to be pretty obsessive about your colors to want this.
I see really a good use if a company wants the parts in "there" color accounting to the Corporate design.
Idk if you ever thought of it…
But it really looks like you need a Prusa XL with all the tool heads, and maybe a backup mk4 with the mmu.
How do you feel it compares to just adding alcohol inks (or something like that) to a bottle of white/clear resin? For gloves I switched to some 'tough marigolds', wipe them down with Meths-soaked kitchen roll cloth a bit and then just treat them as if they're always contaminated (which they probably are)
Mixing alcohol inks to whites produces very pastel colours as others have said.
good tip on teh Marigolds actially!
Thank you for your continued honesty.
You can use ANY acrylic inks, mica powder, pigments and even glitter with SLA resin with absolutely no problems at all!!
I made a few YT videos a while ago using uv inks and glow in the worlds most powerful glow powder. Personally I think UV inks are best because your prints glow like uranium glass under black light..
Please don't waste money on a kit just use your favourite abs resin add a few drops of ink or a spoon of pigment and BOOM your in business, you can even use colour changing pigment!!
Always like funny bits of your videos. BTW I use Hygiene Plus Nitro Strength Disposable Gloves comes Blue box and with little knobs on the fingers one pair lasts several days as I have a water bucket to risen off Iso. I also put baby powder in the glove to make it easy to put your hands into them.
I use heavy duty nitrile cleaning gloves and have been using the same pair for a while. I should probably change them out often though
As for uses I could see this resin “ink” style being used by small businesses for custom coloured /branding/promotional items especially in small orders by a startup or new 3d printing business. I’ve never owned a3d printer (or even owned one) but as someone who knows about design I know that brand recognition is often achieved best by colour consistency and since many manufacturers require larger orders than achievable for a new/small business I can see this as a good use case.
Personally I think it’s a great idea it’s just the we go about it Disposable cups measuring by weight that would save a lot of cleaning then possibly putting a clear plastic wrap on the vat which was easily removable that would only leave the building plate to clean job done in 5 minutes
Great content, as all your videos are. Have you ever thought about asking Prusa for some printers to test? I'd give it a try 🤣
With all the faff that you had to go through: it makes far more sense to just paint them. Even if you had them seperated by colors: spraying a base paint with an airbrush is far far easier than doing so kuch vat cleaning. As it is i just buy white or grey resins and never fully clean the vat until im not going to uwe the orinter for a while.
I'd use permanent nitrile gloves for this, the long ones you can use to handle even cold reactive fabric dye without consequence.
Where will you be on the Spiel?
I did t know you could get those
I’ll be at the Artis Opus Booth all week
I think this is nice if you have your branding colors to print. This way you have maybe 3 colors you can mix in bigger quantity. And maybe you have 3 separate printers than you don't even have to clean it often.
Yeah can do that. It’s nice in smaller quantities rather than big prints
I would love something like this to make action figures…..but with that…. It would really depend on the scratch resistance and anti powdering of the resin itself. If this is the case and has those features…. This would be freakin awesome
This resin would be good for multi part prototype work that needs the colour all the way through the resin print, I love painting my Warhammer prints but printing large models tanks, titans and the like in a base colour you need just think of all the paint you would save. No mention of price in the vid any idea as to cost?
I mention the cost at the end, watch at 15:10... i dropped it in as a joke.
Yeah your summary is the real elephant in the room. The ide is nice, and even if we disregard the insane amount of work, many of us print models that we get from creators and those models are simply not made for multicolor printing. Personally I HATE painting, and if I could skip right to the end result with this I totally would. It may be a crap ton of work, but its technical work that anyone can do unlike painting which requires, you know, skill.
But without these beautiful creators making models broken out by color it is pointless :(
The price seems reasonable to me - its quite a few KG of resin in the kit, and per KG that doesn't seem stupid. Far from the cheapest resins, but equally not the most expensive either. The real value comes from the colour calculator, that at least in theory will let you get reliable, repeatable results.
I think this has plenty of potential, though less in painted miniatures and more in product prototypes, cosplay and the like - good larger objects that humans tend to interact with, and where breaking the parts into colours will be easy. Though it also works to give your miniatures the right hue that you probably don't need to paint everything or worry about undercoats - for that Tomb Kings style army of near infinite terrible units print the parts in the right colour, glue together and dip wash, pick out the odd detail if you want to for a really good tabletop ready horde.
But to really maximise it you'd want multiple vats so you can just leave your blends of colour in the vat and not waste so much resin or time on the cleanup. And with a bit of cunning assuming your printer's code is open enough to allow it you could in theory swap vats part way through (multiple times per layer even) to get a part with specific colours where you need it.
Interesting. I think someone can come up with a 9 pocket resin tray, 2 IPA rinse pockets and CMYKW++ colors over the screen, then move the build platform to the needed color, expose it, rinse it, then go to the next position for another color. The 2 + + pockets can be custom colors. Probably someone could take such system to the next level and by changing the exposure profile etc to either mix resins on the fly or dither them to get infinite colors. Probably wouldn't be ridiculously expensive to do it. Tell Prusa to try it, they seem to be interested in this space based on your video. Thank you.
I just used alcohol dye to change the color of my clear resin to a yellow. I don't know if they would work in opaque resins but that is for sure cheaper
i use reusable rubber gloves like the dishwash gloves and just wipe them off with ipa and keep them
I should try this. They just don’t have as much tactile feedback as nitrile
The vat cleaning would be a pain, but the concept seems pretty cool. Love the model choice.
thanks for the awesome video! I noticed in your videos you remove the supports after curing it seems, is that the case? I am new to resin printing and I have been removing supports after wash and just before curing, so not sure if I am doing it wrong
I've made colored resins by mixing in alcohol ink. However it all comes out pastel because it would take a lot of ink to make darker colors. And I'm guess the more ink you add the weaker the resin becomes.
yeah, my thoughts exactly, this has actual phisical pigment in I guess
So monocure3d has a cymk dye kit where you do the same thing, but it works with any resin, seems like a similar system, but way cheaper and lets you use your favorite resin.
It's still a ball ache to clean out each time tho..
Thanks for the video, it opens up a niche in the market. What niche exactly I don't yet know.
Not for me, because I also enjoy the painting process, but I see this is a step towards something cool in the future. PS - Prusa, send Ross some printers.
PRUSA! Give the man your biggest printer! I wanna see a fair review.