Mercedes M116 & M117 81-91 Dual Air Intake System. Tutorial of the parallel intake manifold system
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- Another different approach tutorial to the idle vacuum intake system with the hopes that this presentation may yield the answer you are looking for and satisfies your questions you may not know you had.
Sorry for the camera focusing issue, but somehow sometimes I forget to push the zoom out button! My apologies!
I really appreciate your knowledge and sharing it. I have just purchased my first MB (1986 420SEL) here in Australia, and am finding that your guidance invaluable. Thank you!
Great video! I have been watching your videos since 2022 when I got my 560 SEL and they are a big help understanding how things work on these super machines. You go deeper in details and explanation and that's what make your videos great !!! Thank you !
Hi, have a question about the brake fluid. After replaced brake disks and pads on both my 1987 560 sel ,the "antilock" light came on on both cars. Iam working to figure it out if abs speed sensor are faulty and have cleaned them twice with no result. I used Pentosin dot 4 super as brake fluid on both cars and my question is if this is the right brake fluid that recommended on these cars? Thank you and much appreciate your help!
@@rexhvac OVP-relay.
@@cbjodd5878 Hi, will check the OVP 's on both cars , but they were fine before I did brakes ,how did they went both bad right after that ? Thank you!
Thanx for sharing your knowledge and experience in this presentation about Mercedes KE Jettonics and the importance of inspecting and repairing Vacuum Issues.😊😊
I am running a d jetronic but nevertheless I enjoying and appreciate the information you share.
It will be really interesting to see the system functioning off the car.
Thank you for the detailed explanation! I was wondering if using hose clamps on all those connections would help get rid of vacuum leaks?
Nope, only a new hose will do the job
As always great info.
24:21 Hope you feel better. On a 87’ 560sl. Took the air valve for the plate adjustment and found oil inside. Took the injector out and was oily too. Any ideas?
Oily? Leaking valve stem seals
For a 117.968 engine get two kits:
1170500367 REPAIR KIT
VALVE STEM SEALING
And check the Lower intake system, it’s probably got oil in it too
For more details on this watch this playlist
ua-cam.com/play/PLO4ZlzALkZVq3NysVV7vqO7BiZ9Kd_97D.html
@@inovahightechltd Thanks! Looking for it
Is the vacuum system similar in both K and KE jetronic systems? Thanks.
The answer is No
Thank you, I have learned so much from your videos. I have a K-Jet system on a UK 1984 500sl. No leaks found on smoke test and new timing chain. Idle speed is 650 on start, but at operating temperature it jumps to 900-950. The idle speed valve works on the bench (closes when 12v applied), has 4 ohm resistance and there is 4 volts across its terminals at operating temp - which shows 1 amp of current. So all seems correct. My first question is this - is the ICV supposed to close completely (ie airtight)? I ask because when I apply 12V on the bench I can easily suck air through it so it is not airtight. If this is normal and the ICV is OK, then what is the last remaining cause of the high idle - the Idle Speed Control Unit?
Hi John,
You may want to adjust ISCV like I show here in these videos:
ua-cam.com/play/PLO4ZlzALkZVqI7GGOhJkXJ4MNzaBtf6kS.html
@@inovahightechltd Thanks for the quick reply - I've looked at these but my ICV is slightly different - it's from a european 500sl (part number 000 141 14 25) and it doesn't have that threaded section to pull out or push in. Should it still pass air when "closed" at operating temperature? I don't know whether to try and change it - new ones are very expensive...
I am not 100% sure, but your idle speed at operating temperature indicates a issue. I would check the Idle Speed Control Unit first. They are known of getting cold solder connections over the years. The best and first thing to do would be to open ISCU and resolder every solder connection with fresh 63/37 RMA Rosin Flux Solder to rejuvenate the solder joints. Check also all components leads for corrosion or oxidation. The leads may break when to corroded / oxidized. This is especially true for Axial mounted parts like capacitors and resistors.
Peter
It turns out that new hoses do not make sense to buy?
No, you just have to buy and replace them more often, like every year or two
@@charlestimmis273 not really because of the heat exposure from the engine. The constant cycle between cold hot cold takes its toll - these hoses are not very expensive, especially the aftermarket once
Good informative video Peter.