KISS: Keep It Simple Stupid, The Basic Climbing Belay Setups!
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- Опубліковано 24 жов 2020
- A couple of simple belay setups and some thoughts!
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Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! www.buymeacoffee.com/jbmountain
The more complicated you make an anchor the easier it is to make a mistake and possibly not catch. Always use the KISS principle in every aspect of climbing and secondly always build in redundancy and you'll be a safe climber.
Here in Australia we tend to put one figure of 8 in the setup, not just clove hitches.
For someone starting their journey this was exactly what I needed to see and hear, thanks. If you where in Scotland id be hiring you.
My pleasure!
I'm here because outside are now sponsoring you and I saw their post this morning. This is a great video. Perfect info for me at the moment. Thanks.
Thanks for checking out the channel!
Breath of fresh air. Thanks!
What is the rolling the middle of the clove method? Any close up videos of this?
Great. Thanks
Thank you for your instruction. It's great!!!!
Absolute pleasure!
Loving the content and love the buy me a coffee. Finally, you've got a way to support you and say thanks for some incredible content. Unfortunately with lockdown it'll have to do, but definitely keen to get on some training asap. Hopefully soon but for now it's coffee 😸
Much appreciated!
JB, I’m aiming for the Gunks this summer with my kids. Any vids on plan on top rope setups? Especially off trees, far back from the route. We bring like 25M static line for this.
It's an old one so can't remember if its any good, but: ua-cam.com/video/eaApvRKwqSE/v-deo.htmlsi=nYXwAeUGetsW9kC0
Timely reminder. Cheers Jez
Pleasure!
Love the videos mate! Keep it up and you'll have an great following :) If you ever run out of ideas or can't get out climbing I would watch simple camping videos etc I find your voice very calming. Kinda remind me of Dave MacLeod a little
Glad you like 'em and thanks for the kind words!
This was very nice! Thank you. Now that you have gotten the simple ones out of the way, could you do a video on the most weird anchors you actually used in anger? pros, cons, and would you use them again? What would you do differently if not? I think this could be a fun way to showcase some of the sketchy decisions we have to make as climbers.
Good suggestion, I'll work on it!
Love it! “Don’t do weird stuff” should be a mantra for life, not just belay building....
Haha, very true!
Hi, greag vids as always.
If tying in with rope and climbing as a pair, how would the first climber secure second into same anchor prior to putting themselves back on belay and leading next pitch? Hope thats clear enough😂
How do you belay off the rope belay at the end?
Love the videos! What sling do you use? Also, how often to you replace your slings?
Usually DMM 8mm, or Beal 6mm. How often I change them depends on use and damage, for me every couple of years probably.
Nice videos you make, well explained and to the point. However on this one I dont get the in reach, out of reach: if you can clip the biners into the bolts, setup the slings, put a biner into the masterpoint, clip the rope into that, then how can the biner in the masterpoint be out of reach to put a clove hitch on it?
It refers to the position of the belay stance relative to the anchor in the event that your anchor points/master point are far away from the spot you want to belay from (i.e. you build the anchor but then need to move away from it to actually belay). Having the clove hitch(es) at your harness allows you to keep a tight tether and easily adjust your position relative to the anchor opposed to hitching into the anchor points/master point directly.
first of all: love the content, thank you so much!
question about the rope setup with half ropes: do you put both ropes through the carabiners and make in total 4 cleve hitches on two carbiners in the rope loop on your harness? or do you just use one rope? the first sounds a little bit overkill for me...
Good question! Either ignore one of the ropes and just use one for it all, or use one rope for one anchor, and one for the other. Hope that makes sense!
@@JBMountainSkills absolutely, thanks mate!
Thanks for this great video! I'm pretty new to this, so please bear with me: If you belay a lead with this setup and the lead falls, aren't you afraid of being pulled up against the wall? Shouldn't you bind it off to a bottom anchor? Looking forward to your next videos! Thanks for your thoughts and greetings from Germany
Good question! You're right in theory, in practice though it isn't really an issue by the time you've added in some rope drag, rope stretch etc.
My partner is half my weight and as JB said after rope stretch and drag is never been an issue.
However we do ground anchor for the first 2 gear placements on the ground.
And when leading from a pitch I place the first two pieces very quickly and close together. Usually only arm reach above the belay.
In the example where you used the climbing rope, where would you attach your belay device to belay your second up? If you were going to belay off your belay loop, where would you re-direct the belay too?
Off the rope loop normally. There's not really any need to redirect in most circumstances.
@@JBMountainSkills Off the rope where? Where the loop is that you created with your figure when your tie? Like where you attached the big carabiner? Or would you just attach your ATC to your belay loop and belay off your harness for your second.
@@MotoDareDevil the rope loop created from your tie in knot, fig 8 for me. You could belay off your belay loop. Pros and cons, as always, to both. There's an earlier video about it :)
How would you tie the overhand for the masterpoint if you aren't in a ledge and just hanging off one hand?
Being realistic, this kind of doesn't actually happen very often at all. But if it did I'd clip in to the bolt / best bit of kit with my rope and a clove hitch or lanyard, then do it.
hello mate i have posted this comment in a older video, but i guess its relevant to this video also, not sure if the comment will pop up on the older video, if it does, sorry for the question spam. Really enjoying your videos, this might seem like a stupid question but if your on a multi pitch and your intending to lead the next pitch, if you do a setup using your rope to the anchors, once your second comes up what is he securing himself in to? obviously its a little less complicated if you use a sling and create a master point, but if the rope is used what is the second securing
Good question! If the leader is going to lead the next pitch as well, it's much easier to set up with a sling if possible. If it isn't, then the second needs to rig up their own belay, keeping their ropes underneath the leaders setup. Same anchors, but separate krabs.
Hope that helps!
I'll copy and paste this on the other vid too, might be useful for someone else :)
KISSASS Keep It Simply Simple And Simply Safe, another top notch video \m/\m/
Oo, I like that!
@@JBMountainSkills KISSASS Keep It Simply Simple And Stay Safe...another one, all the best to you Jez, Thanks for the brilliant vid's.
When using the rope, doesn't it tension the binner in 3 different directions?
Not to a point that's a concern as long as you keep the angles reasonable.
@@JBMountainSkills Thanks mate
You thought about making a Patreon? Love the content!
Glad you like the content! I have something similar: www.buymeacoffee.com/jbmountain :)
What do you do with your dog on a multi pitch ??
Serious question
Depends on the crag but normally he just chills out down the bottom.
@@JBMountainSkills fair one. Tied up or running free?
My cocker would be chasing sheep and birds 😩😂
@@Bladesmobile depends on the crag but usually just free. He’s out nearly every day so used to being mellow at the bottom, he doesn’t wander far and is pretty good with sheep.
Pwah right on the money this got posted 18 seconds ago.
Boom!