Can we use single point anchors for climbing and mountaineering belays?
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- Опубліковано 12 жов 2020
- Well the answer is yes, but there's some stuff to think about... as always!
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Great video, as usual. Though your vids always make me feel guilty of extreme negligence - I've been climbing for 45 years and I have to confess many of my multi-pitch belays have been of the ONE bombproof sling or rope around a flake or chockstone variety :-( My way of thinking is 'if I'm worried about the main rope, heavy duty sling or HMS crab failing on a solid anchor'' I may as well solo ;-)
AMAZING video put across so well thank you
Nice one, glad you liked it!
Nice one, another nice option is to pass a long bight around the anchor and tie a bowline in the 4 strands, once the ‘rabbit’ 😂 comes back down the hole this forms a master point loop. You end up with 2 isolated ropes around the anchor and a nice big knot that’s easy to untie after loading. Food for thought! Keep it coming!
Good tip :)
You mention if one cuts the other cuts - this feels like an argument against equalization in this specific case. An unequalized anchor would likely see the loaded strand sever, giving warning of the impending danger
Thunder!!
I am Japanese. I am not good at English.
This video was helpful.Thank you very much.
Also, the dog is cute.
Welcome!
I love your videos and teaching style, thanks for your effort.
Excellent video!
Glad you liked it!
Great informative video. Look forward to rebook ing next year.... Hopefully😷😷😷😷🤔🤔🤔👍
Look forward to it :)
I love your videos and find them very informative and a pleasure to watch, even if you are british. But I don't hold that against you!
Haha, that made me laugh!
Great video again jez
Cheers!
Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! www.buymeacoffee.com/jbmountain
Top film 🎥 proper made sense
Glad you liked it :)
So to shorten your end of the last rope anchor config, you could just tie off a bight (overhand or butterfly probably best as they are easy to adjust) of the length you want instead of doing the clove hitch, could save you that carabiner you use for the clove!
Definitely! For me I'll sometimes do that, sometimes I want to be on the master point "properly" :)
Great stuff Jez, brilliant advice as always.
I'm sure the "must have redundancy or you die as it told me so in a text book" brigade will be along soon! 😅
So far so good...!
Interesting thoughts of doubling up the sling and adding a knot. Edelrid recently released a video reminding us that a knot in a sling may weaken it up to 60%. So we’re doubling the strength of the slings but weakening them again at the knot. So we’ve got the double strand redundancy at the cost of a possible slight strength loss. I might be tempted to use two 120’s instead of just the one 240 if I had them available.
Being realistic we knot slings all the time appropriately so I don’t get very stressed about it. We’re not going to generate forces close to breaking a knotted sling unless we make some other really poor decisions.
@@JBMountainSkills that's true... a lead fall would rarely get past 4kN (FF2 aside), so a top-belay would be much below that. That said, old or tatty slings have been tested to break as low as 5-6kN on a pull tester, and I know plenty of casual/personal climbers who might have kit like that on them "because it's not failed yet".
@@PhillSparks I’d love to see video of a tatty sling breaking at that strength if you have a link? There’s good stuff online of a half cut through sling still getting 10kn or similar!
JB Mountain Skills there’s a couple of clips in this video ua-cam.com/video/WyExE2qH4Fs/v-deo.html but I don’t know which full videos they’re from.
@@PhillSparks feel free to link a time stamp ;)
A short trip to the Dolomites will get you used to single-point glue-in anchors 😅
I have climbed in the Dolomites, but would love to do some more!
@@JBMountainSkills I've been living and climbing here for the past couple of years (originally from USA) and am still not quite used to the single point glue-in anchors. Thanks for the quality content!
Is there a safe method for setting up a top rope in this scenario with static rope on a single point? I've seen a few of videos but they all have more than one point
"I go climbing to go climbing", love it! Is that the next t-shirt quote??
Haha, could be!
It should be.
I’ve been looking for a video on how to use the rope to loop a boulder, thanks! What’s the procedure to incorporate a looped boulder (with the rope) into a multi point anchor or would that not make sense to do?
I'd rather use slings if possible, but if not I'd probably loop around the boulder and clove hitch back to me, then run a rope to the other anchor and either clove hitch in (in reach) or clove hitch back to me (out of reach).
Great vid, love tips that utilise the rope, its always there (or should be unless something gone very wrong!)!
What belay plate do you use for guide mode out of interest?
Glad you liked it! I use an ATC Guide :)
Nice one Jez. Where do big, well placed hexes fit into this for you?
Compare the strength ratings on your protection and you may find that your hexes are similar to your nuts and cams, where the slings are usually almost double that. Unquestionably good? Human sized?
Good question!
For me no placement of nut / hex / cam can complete with a spike / thread / tree kind of thing.
It's not the strength for me so much (big torque nut = 14kn, it just isn't as big and solid.
(Never say never...!)
JB Mountain Skills Cheers Jez. 😄😄
@@JBMountainSkills Having seen the state of some trees and the quality of some rocks I've seen slung... give me a blue torque nut in a granite crack any day
Why don't climbers pad their ropes in a high-abrasion situations like slackliners do?
Sometimes we do, when appropriate and practical. We don't normally need to though.