use kroil to open no.30's hood doors at the western railway museum when i was working there a will back her hood doors still opens on all opening parts like the battery door after 6 year still good .
I am not a mechanic but need to drop the Cat converter from my rusted out 4Runner. Used PB blaster and goose neck ratchet with respectable length of pipe on the ratchet. No result. Ordered Kroil, applied waited 5 min. And broke the nuts loose. I would not have believed it. I paid 25 bucks for a small can. That is expensive. Wish I had not also bought the MAP torch because so far with Kroil, I dont need it.
You'll use the torch eventually. I just used mine this past weekend to free up a very corroded bolt on a turbine housing. ?With some things there's just no replacement for heat.
My dad has a Scag ZTR. He's had it since 07. The muffler rusted out and he had to replace it. He loves PBastard. After 2 weeks he couldn't get the bolts out and didn't want to break them off in the head. I told him to try kroil. He called later that day and said the bolts almost fell out. This is the best stuff out there.
Thanks for the comment James. I would agree. I think some of the more recent videos on youtube which have suggested that there isn't much of a difference in oils don't take into account time and brushing off the loose stuff. I've always had the best luck with Kroil by far.
Worst case scenario, you'll like the smell better. Post back with your opinion of it. I appreciate your comment and look forward to your restults, Vin.
I'll have to check it out. In nearly a decade, I've learned that everyone has their own idea of what's best and few of those products can beat even a little bit of heat. I need to revisit this soon. Thanks for the comment, and the view!
@@bwcordes yes a little heat, apparently some shock to it may help to, e.g. tapping the frozen part with a hammer , (protected by aluminum or something so as not to damage it).
No idea, my boss uses mouse milk for aircraft he works on, I use kroil for bicycles. I've never seen mouse milk in the shops here, and kroil is almost impossible to buy on store shelves here too.
I know you made this video in 2015 and this is 2020. I have just my opinion and observation. I was a mechanic for over 40 plus years then retired. Rusted nuts, bolts, shafts, fan blades and a whole lot more. I used this product after listening to other mechanics and found it isn't any better than any other penetrant. It isn't anywhere near what people are saying with the raves and ranting. Combination of Heating and penetrants worked most of the time. Then I see you remove the bolts on the exhaust side of the turbo using the open end of the wrench. I don't think soooooooo!!!!!!!! Maybe , but I don't think soooooo. Those bolts become are almost become part of the turbo housing most of the time. along with the heads rusting so much the size is now smaller than when it was new so the open end will slip off the head of the bolt or nut.
Agreed that heat and any oil works well. This is the best I've found for rusted up stuff that I've got some time for. If I let it sit and repeat a few times it will generally save my brake line fittings. If for nothing else, that's what makes it best for me. For every day stuff, especially when I'm using heat, I would agree that just about anything will be fine for that.
this stuff is awesome. its been around for a long time. but right now I am trying to remove exhaust bolts on a outboard that wasn't taken care of and I am having hell. I been soaking AeroKroil. for 2 days......I got one to move....lol
I would tend to agree. There are a lot of different products in the comments of this video which I haven't tried, but Kroil works the best from everything I have tried.
Penetrating oils are like barbeque or chili. Everybody thinks theirs is the best. Problem is, there's really no way to reproduce an accurate field test scenario to prove their effectiveness. Getting 2 or more fasteners to rust or seize in the exact same way is simply not possible. Go with what works for you. That said, I've had good luck with nearly every penetrating oil, some better than others. Kroil is great stuff, but $$$. ATF/acetone has stood me well for years, but is a pain to carry non aerosols around. The most important factor for all of them you hit right on the head: give them time to work. The longer the better. Keep them soaked if possible. Wrapping some wicking material or damming around fasteners with clay or putty if possible, and keeping the mating surfaces wet will do wonders. If time is critical though, heat and/or simply busting the fastener off and drilling and praying is the only answer. Once you break them off, at least you can get the penetrant closer to where it needs to go. Every situation is different and one size doesn't fit all.
+blmeflmm66 There's a seriously easy way to at least semi-scientifically test it for yourself. Just get a bunch of left hand threaded nuts and bolts, spray them down with bleach and vinegar to rapidly rust them and soak them in bunches of 10 in different penetrating oils then use a torque wrench to see how much torque it takes on average to break them loose.
+ScienceFoundation That would be an interesting test, but there is no simulation that can throw you curve balls like mother nature over time. You can (and I have) replace entire sets of wheel studs and lug with brand new hardware, torque them to spec, go through a rough winter, and find one or two that just don't want to budge when it's time to rotate tires. And that's my point. What is it that causes one fastener to spin right off with no issues and the one adjacent to it to seize? BTW one of my pet peeves is watching tire shops install wheel lugs with impact tools. They'll then pull out the torque wrench that's set to God only knows what torque and click click click all the way around and not turn them a single degree because they already over torqued them with the gun. ARGH! So I get home, back them off and re-torque them myself.
I don't use it on my studs for the lug nuts. First off, I don't think anyone recommends it. Secondarily, I don't want to worry about over torquing my nuts. I can rarely if ever find a manufacturer's recommendation for the decrease in torque necessary for application of anti-seize.
bwcordes not recommended on lugnuts. Any time u cannot find a lubricated thread torque it's a dry torque. Unwritten rule like speed limits, if no sign it's 25 or 30mph I forget. In the service manuals for large industrial engines for example, on occasion you'll see separate charts for the same item being torqued, one an anti seize lubed threads torque chart and another a 10w oil lubed threads chart and possibly a much higher dry torque chart for the same item.
Great video. I've heard of Kroil but haven't seen it for sale. Kroil commented on your video below. I used their link and found a store 15 miles away! Thanks, @bwcordes
+Tom Z There may be a store near you which carries it, although that's unlikely. If you need it ASAP you're probably stuck with PB Blaster which is the best I've done at the parts store. I know that Kroil is sold through Kano Labs on Amazon so you may be able to see what overnighting it would cost, but the thought of that fee scares me to think about.
We appreciate the great video featuring #Kroil. Have you heard about our #kroilcontestentry (ends on 10/31/21 at 11:59 pm CT)?Here's your chance to WIN one of many amazing prizes, including $5,000, a one year supply (up to 12 cans or one case of 10 oz. product) of Kroil penetrants ($250 value), or other prizes! Your video could include either of the following: This promotion is in no way sponsored, endorsed, or associated with UA-cam.
What plastic-friendly penetrating oil can i use to help remove bearings from a plastic washing machine tub without damaging the plastic??? These bearings are REALLY tuff to remove.
That's a good question. I'm not aware of anything which is plastic friendly in the long run. Depending on replacement cost and availability, I might be tempted to use just about anything temporarily. There are composites which I wouldn't hesitate to use some stronger penetrating oils too. Glass reinforced Nylon I'd throw most anything at to get it free for example.
There are all kinds of plastics. If a particular plastic bears a close enough similarity to acetone, the acetone will dissolve or at least affect its surface, softening, smearing or even dissolving the plastic. Other plastics, dissimilar to acetone, will remain unaffected by the solvent.
+Steven Dusza If it works, it works. I would clean any pulley that a belt rides on very well before reinstalling if I were to hose it down with any fluid. It's not that other products won't work, but that Kroil will always work much better.
I wish I was being paid by them. If you look through all the comments, you'll see that I haven't had luck with the ATF/Acetone mix and it eats any spray bottles I put it in. I have a pretty good test lined up, but that's for the future. Thanks for the comment and the view!
+ScienceFoundation What type of ATF? I've had no luck with it and I've made two batches. I've also tried PS fluid because some claim that's what really works.
I'm going to give the ATF and acetone mix one more try after reading so many guys on here say that it really works. Two mixes for me did little if anything.
+don yag I was given a can of Rust Bomb fairly recently, but I have yet to try it out. I'll give it a go and report my findings the next time I need to pull a turbo apart.
I've only tried twice, but for as good as everyone says it is I guess I'm doing it wrong. I'm not impressed and it eats my spray bottles making storage a pain.
Thanks for that info. I watched the video and it was quite good. AVE did a comparison fairly recently too. I only wish there was a larger sample size for the tests. There's a pretty wide standard deviation given a sample size of 4.
I agree on the sample size, I know I'd like to see a few more in there. These guys are most likely paying for the product and have no backing besides ad revenue. I also think they just went with what most people consider quality penetrating oil. Still informative. I use to use JB 80 which I think is pretty good but impossible to buy off the shelf for the most part. (Which I'd love to see in the sample size and I only could find it at a VW garage) I usually use PB blaster but as I mentioned I bought a can of kroil as well. I'll use both. Can't hurt working on 40+ year old vehicles.
@@MickeyWu7r5 my real world experience hasn't been anything to brag about. I think JB 80 works better and it's cheaper. I won't waste my money on buying anymore of it.
This stuff is not even close to the best !!! I think this guy is a wee bit biased. Liquid wrench and ultra lube 4x is better . Trust me I’ve used them all in my years of being a automotive Tech/mechanic in Massachusetts where we have lots of rusty shit boxes .
👍Expensive at my local supply house but I’ve bought it and used it for 25 years Industrial/Commercial- Refrigeration/HVAC Boilers - “Nothing beats Kroil” (-GS-) ✌️SUB’d 👍
For exhaust fasteners, nothing beats an acetylene, torch & water. Heat & chill, repeat
use kroil to open no.30's hood doors at the western railway museum when i was working there a will back her hood doors still opens on all opening parts like the battery door after 6 year still good .
I am not a mechanic but need to drop the Cat converter from my rusted out 4Runner. Used PB blaster and goose neck ratchet with respectable length of pipe on the ratchet. No result. Ordered Kroil, applied waited 5 min. And broke the nuts loose. I would not have believed it. I paid 25 bucks for a small can. That is expensive. Wish I had not also bought the MAP torch because so far with Kroil, I dont need it.
You'll use the torch eventually. I just used mine this past weekend to free up a very corroded bolt on a turbine housing. ?With some things there's just no replacement for heat.
50/50 ATF/acetone ...... I've used both kroil and this mix for years. Use the mix
My dad has a Scag ZTR. He's had it since 07. The muffler rusted out and he had to replace it. He loves PBastard. After 2 weeks he couldn't get the bolts out and didn't want to break them off in the head. I told him to try kroil. He called later that day and said the bolts almost fell out. This is the best stuff out there.
Thanks for the comment James. I would agree. I think some of the more recent videos on youtube which have suggested that there isn't much of a difference in oils don't take into account time and brushing off the loose stuff. I've always had the best luck with Kroil by far.
Okay, I bought your story, I'm getting the Kroil. However, the acetone and ATF has worked well for me.
Worst case scenario, you'll like the smell better. Post back with your opinion of it. I appreciate your comment and look forward to your restults, Vin.
Well UA-cam some other comparison tests, Liquid Wrench consistently outperforms Kroil, and at a fraction of the cost!
I'll have to check it out. In nearly a decade, I've learned that everyone has their own idea of what's best and few of those products can beat even a little bit of heat. I need to revisit this soon. Thanks for the comment, and the view!
@@bwcordes yes a little heat, apparently some shock to it may help to, e.g. tapping the frozen part with a hammer , (protected by aluminum or something so as not to damage it).
I wish you could walk into a store and buy this stuff.
That is the biggest downfall of the product. There are some places around me which carry it, but the price is insane from them.
I worked in industry for almost 50 years and used several Kano Labs products all were top drawer.
Agreed. I recently tried Slikene and it worked very well on some door hinges.
bwcordes were you fortunate enough to get a free can of AeroKroil on one of their specials?
I've done that many times in the past. If you can get in on it every time it's the only way to go.
I’ve used a lot of kroil over the years and it’s good, but Mouse Milk is by far the best penetrating oil I’ve ever used.
I've heard that from a few people. I need to find some and try it out. Thanks for the comment and the view!
My boss uses Mouse Milk, they're both very comparable, both claim to creep into the same size gaps.
Thanks for the reply. I'll add that to the list of things to try. Do you know if there is a cost difference between the two?
No idea, my boss uses mouse milk for aircraft he works on, I use kroil for bicycles. I've never seen mouse milk in the shops here, and kroil is almost impossible to buy on store shelves here too.
I know you made this video in 2015 and this is 2020. I have just my opinion and observation. I was a mechanic for over 40 plus years then retired. Rusted nuts, bolts, shafts, fan blades and a whole lot more. I used this product after listening to other mechanics and found it isn't any better than any other penetrant. It isn't anywhere near what people are saying with the raves and ranting.
Combination of Heating and penetrants worked most of the time.
Then I see you remove the bolts on the exhaust side of the turbo using the open end of the wrench. I don't think soooooooo!!!!!!!! Maybe , but I don't think soooooo. Those bolts become are almost become part of the turbo housing most of the time. along with the heads rusting so much the size is now smaller than when it was new so the open end will slip off the head of the bolt or nut.
Agreed that heat and any oil works well. This is the best I've found for rusted up stuff that I've got some time for. If I let it sit and repeat a few times it will generally save my brake line fittings. If for nothing else, that's what makes it best for me. For every day stuff, especially when I'm using heat, I would agree that just about anything will be fine for that.
order kroil direct from kano labs nashvilli tennnessee i,ve usedit 40years best buy far get a gallon can also use it in pump oiler
this stuff is awesome. its been around for a long time. but right now I am trying to remove exhaust bolts on a outboard that wasn't taken care of and I am having hell. I been soaking AeroKroil. for 2 days......I got one to move....lol
Save your time.
Nothing beats Sea Foam Deep Creep.
Kroil is the best. Period.
I just order directly from them.
No big deal.
Everything else is a pretender
I would tend to agree. There are a lot of different products in the comments of this video which I haven't tried, but Kroil works the best from everything I have tried.
Try KB-88 from LPS Laboratories. It's blows Kroil away!
That's a bold statement. I'll add it to the list and give it a try when I can.
Penetrating oils are like barbeque or chili. Everybody thinks theirs is the best. Problem is, there's really no way to reproduce an accurate field test scenario to prove their effectiveness. Getting 2 or more fasteners to rust or seize in the exact same way is simply not possible. Go with what works for you. That said, I've had good luck with nearly every penetrating oil, some better than others. Kroil is great stuff, but $$$. ATF/acetone has stood me well for years, but is a pain to carry non aerosols around. The most important factor for all of them you hit right on the head: give them time to work. The longer the better. Keep them soaked if possible. Wrapping some wicking material or damming around fasteners with clay or putty if possible, and keeping the mating surfaces wet will do wonders. If time is critical though, heat and/or simply busting the fastener off and drilling and praying is the only answer. Once you break them off, at least you can get the penetrant closer to where it needs to go. Every situation is different and one size doesn't fit all.
+blmeflmm66 There's a seriously easy way to at least semi-scientifically test it for yourself. Just get a bunch of left hand threaded nuts and bolts, spray them down with bleach and vinegar to rapidly rust them and soak them in bunches of 10 in different penetrating oils then use a torque wrench to see how much torque it takes on average to break them loose.
+ScienceFoundation That would be an interesting test, but there is no simulation that can throw you curve balls like mother nature over time. You can (and I have) replace entire sets of wheel studs and lug with brand new hardware, torque them to spec, go through a rough winter, and find one or two that just don't want to budge when it's time to rotate tires. And that's my point. What is it that causes one fastener to spin right off with no issues and the one adjacent to it to seize? BTW one of my pet peeves is watching tire shops install wheel lugs with impact tools. They'll then pull out the torque wrench that's set to God only knows what torque and click click click all the way around and not turn them a single degree because they already over torqued them with the gun. ARGH! So I get home, back them off and re-torque them myself.
+blmeflmm66 Plus they never put anti sieze compound on them which just makes everyone's life difficult.
I don't use it on my studs for the lug nuts. First off, I don't think anyone recommends it. Secondarily, I don't want to worry about over torquing my nuts. I can rarely if ever find a manufacturer's recommendation for the decrease in torque necessary for application of anti-seize.
bwcordes not recommended on lugnuts. Any time u cannot find a lubricated thread torque it's a dry torque. Unwritten rule like speed limits, if no sign it's 25 or 30mph I forget.
In the service manuals for large industrial engines for example, on occasion you'll see separate charts for the same item being torqued, one an anti seize lubed threads torque chart and another a 10w oil lubed threads chart and possibly a much higher dry torque chart for the same item.
Great video. I've heard of Kroil but haven't seen it for sale. Kroil commented on your video below. I used their link and found a store 15 miles away! Thanks, @bwcordes
Does anyone know if you can get the at a local store or is it only online. I need some right away and can't wait for an online order.
+Tom Z
There may be a store near you which carries it, although that's unlikely. If you need it ASAP you're probably stuck with PB Blaster which is the best I've done at the parts store.
I know that Kroil is sold through Kano Labs on Amazon so you may be able to see what overnighting it would cost, but the thought of that fee scares me to think about.
We appreciate the great video featuring #Kroil. Have you heard about our #kroilcontestentry (ends on 10/31/21 at 11:59 pm CT)?Here's your chance to WIN one of many amazing prizes, including $5,000, a one year supply (up to 12 cans or one case of 10 oz. product) of Kroil penetrants ($250 value), or other prizes!
Your video could include either of the following:
This promotion is in no way sponsored, endorsed, or associated with UA-cam.
so which is best kroil or superzilla? both say they are the best by far. both are very expensive.
What plastic-friendly penetrating oil can i use to help remove bearings from a plastic washing machine tub without damaging the plastic??? These bearings are REALLY tuff to remove.
That's a good question. I'm not aware of anything which is plastic friendly in the long run. Depending on replacement cost and availability, I might be tempted to use just about anything temporarily. There are composites which I wouldn't hesitate to use some stronger penetrating oils too. Glass reinforced Nylon I'd throw most anything at to get it free for example.
I may try some of this. The acetone and ATF mix ruins every spray bottle I can find.
I'm glad that I'm not the only one that happens to.
bwcordes you realize acetone eats plastic right? use a metal oiler can...
I thought I might be able to find something that it wouldn't eat.
There are all kinds of plastics. If a particular plastic bears a close enough similarity to acetone, the acetone will dissolve or at least affect its surface, softening, smearing or even dissolving the plastic. Other plastics, dissimilar to acetone, will remain unaffected by the solvent.
Oh Great my mechanic just used PB B on my idler pully..Ouch??
+Steven Dusza
If it works, it works. I would clean any pulley that a belt rides on very well before reinstalling if I were to hose it down with any fluid.
It's not that other products won't work, but that Kroil will always work much better.
Where’s the data? Customer testimonials without testing not much value.
Your wrong! Probably work for Kroil. ATF & Acetone works as well if not better from my experience and is less expensive. :)
I wish I was being paid by them. If you look through all the comments, you'll see that I haven't had luck with the ATF/Acetone mix and it eats any spray bottles I put it in. I have a pretty good test lined up, but that's for the future. Thanks for the comment and the view!
Plusgas is waaayyy better. Hard to get in North America right enough :(
The first link when you search for it is an Amazon.uk link. It would be interesting to try though.
Try out Mouse milk
Thanks for the suggestion. I've heard that from a ton of folks. I need to pick some up and give it a go. Thanks for the comment, and the view!
@@bwcordes I’m not knocking Kroil , it’s great stuff, I have it in the garage, but Mouse Milk is really impressive.
I use no lube. I stuck a pipe over the wrench (making a long ass handle) so I was able to get more leverage and just put my body weight on it LOL
That works great until you break the bolt.
bwcordes
Like all frozen bolts, be careful :)
Mouse Milk
where did you get the KROIL from?
I buy it direct when they have the 2 for 1 deals.
thank you for your answer, i was hoping you got it from Autozone, or walmart, trying not to buy online, my work uses this great stuff
ATF + acetone is better than kroil
+ScienceFoundation What type of ATF? I've had no luck with it and I've made two batches. I've also tried PS fluid because some claim that's what really works.
I use Peak Dex/Merc. I got gallons upon gallons of it when the dollar store here had it for $1.50/qt
+bwcordes Marvel Mystery Oil is pretty good too. It's already 1/4 stoddard solvent
Spoiler: The mystery is lard.
+ScienceFoundation I'll mix up a batch and give it another go. It may be the ticket for stuff that I can just submerge in it and let sit.
I'm going to give the ATF and acetone mix one more try after reading so many guys on here say that it really works. Two mixes for me did little if anything.
i would put rust bomb in the same league as that stuff!
+don yag
I was given a can of Rust Bomb fairly recently, but I have yet to try it out. I'll give it a go and report my findings the next time I need to pull a turbo apart.
a kroil salesperson
ATF acetone hard to mix??
I've only tried twice, but for as good as everyone says it is I guess I'm doing it wrong. I'm not impressed and it eats my spray bottles making storage a pain.
Buy a can of kroil, dump it out. Fill with the 50 50 mix. Lol
actually it isn't the best. Look up project farm's review of penetrating oil and it tested 3rd. I bought into the hype and have a can myself.
Thanks for that info. I watched the video and it was quite good. AVE did a comparison fairly recently too. I only wish there was a larger sample size for the tests. There's a pretty wide standard deviation given a sample size of 4.
I agree on the sample size, I know I'd like to see a few more in there. These guys are most likely paying for the product and have no backing besides ad revenue. I also think they just went with what most people consider quality penetrating oil. Still informative. I use to use JB 80 which I think is pretty good but impossible to buy off the shelf for the most part. (Which I'd love to see in the sample size and I only could find it at a VW garage) I usually use PB blaster but as I mentioned I bought a can of kroil as well. I'll use both. Can't hurt working on 40+ year old vehicles.
UA-cam tested isn't real world.
Ask anyone who's worked in the industrial field 20yrs. AeroKroil
has proven itself over time.
@@MickeyWu7r5 my real world experience hasn't been anything to brag about. I think JB 80 works better and it's cheaper. I won't waste my money on buying anymore of it.
This stuff is not even close to the best !!! I think this guy is a wee bit biased. Liquid wrench and ultra lube 4x is better . Trust me I’ve used them all in my years of being a automotive Tech/mechanic in Massachusetts where we have lots of rusty shit boxes .
I haven't used Ultra Lube 4x yet. I'll add that to the list of things to try. Thanks for the comment and the suggestion.
👍Expensive at my local supply house but I’ve bought it and used it for 25 years Industrial/Commercial- Refrigeration/HVAC Boilers - “Nothing beats Kroil”
(-GS-) ✌️SUB’d 👍
Thanks for the comment. If you sign up for their mailing list, they do some 2 for 1 deals on occasion. That's when I buy it.
No it's not.... Lawson product as the best of all penetrating products.....
What's the name of it?
I think it's called, "Open and Shut penetrating oil", by Lawson.