Let me update you on your practices. One would think flex duct connected with a panduit strap only is a sealed joint you would be wrong. In an attic duct leakage is a huge waster of energy especially through the return flex. LEED or Leadership in Energy Efficiency Design requires mastic on the collar where it connects to the register box or boot, the boot sealed to the sheet rock, and when installing flex mastic is spread on the collar the flex is slid into place over the mastic, a strap is installed. More mastic is spread on the outside sealing the end of the flex to the collar. The flex insulation is then pulled down and held from lifting off with tape or by some other means. Never strap over the insulation as it will be compressed and made ineffective. On Platinum LEED installations we spray foam over the finished connection sealing the flex to the boot and the boot to the sheet rock. Yes this costs more, but for instance it is common place to reduce the capacity of the system by up to one ton. We recently took out 8 tons and put in 4 tons just by sealing and insulating the new duct system to LEED standards. Would you think the homeowner would get a payback? We have reduced electrical hvac bills by 80% in doing so this with no other changes to the property envelope.
If you were able to take out 8 tons and replace it with 4 tons, then the initial company that sold the customer 8 tons ripped them off by Oversizing the equipment needed for the load. It's not that it was leaking 4 tons of air, that's ridiculous. I'm sure it was leaking some, but not that much. They were just trying to make more money by selling them more equipment then was needed. Also, there is nothing wrong with putting a ziptie on the outside of the flex to hold the insulation over the boot or collar. It will compress the insulation some, but not enough to make it sweat. I've been installing for 15 years, and that's how everyone in my state (NC) does it, and I've never seen a job fail inspection for it. Everybody does it a little different, which is okay, as long as it's right. All my job get blower door tests to test the duct for leakage, and I've never had a job to fail the test. Actually, my jobs are always the tightest at my company. I had one job with less than 1% leakage, which is awesome, but I use a lot of mastic. It's impossible to have a job test 0% leakage, less than 1% is as low as you can get, and it means it was sealed perfectly.
Thanks for the help! I purchased an adjustable 90 degree elbow and applied the techniques that you taught. My home is nice and cool and it's 90 degrees outside. Thanks & God Bless!!!
I used my tin snips back in the day when I was a green horn once and only once!!!! My journeyman lead training me made me use them anyway for at least a few months! It was fun cutting sheet metal with messed up snips........
Great video! I'm finishing my basement and need to reroute a stretch of my ductwork, and raise it for my drop ceiling, because some pvc piping is in the way, not allowing me to raise it to the height where I need it. I was going to call an HVAC company, but this seems simple. almost like hooking up a dryer vent.
side cutters can be used to tighten panduits, after zipping it down grab it with the side cutters and with a twisting motion tighten the panduit. i havent bought a panduit tool in years and my bag is lighter
I have to disagree a little with your install of flex to boots/taps. the biggest concern I have is that you do not seal the mylar (plastic inside the insulation) to the metal. This can be a huge air loss even with the banduit strap tight. taping the insulation wrap is good however I suggest it be secured to the to the metal at the end as well so it stays tight and insulated (no gaps for heat transfer). banduit is good, I prefer a screw tight against the banduit or the wire inside the mylar after the tape is used to seal it to the metal, the tape also stops the mylar from ever tearing. Thanks for sharing, Good Luck.
we always apply mastic to the inner liner of the flex before putting it to the metal. then we pull the outer insulation layer and fab and mastic it to the box.
I saw you have a local 104 shirt on. I'm also part of that local. district 1. what company do you work for. I have actually ordered duct from you to support our industry and entrepreneurs like yourself. keep doing what your doing brother. I was taught to zip tie, then tape then zip.tie outer jacket. I'm sure it's different everywhere but here in sac that's what we do
Hey Andrew, yes I was actuall 4th Generation in 104 starting with my Great Grandfather Owr Murray. But I recently transferred out of the bay area up North to Oregon.
very helpful video. I have a question though, I live in FL and trying to partition my garage so I have a small office. the air handler is in the garage, so I was hoping to install a vent right on top of the handler, but I can't install a rough-in box. any thoughts ? this part of the insulation is big, solid, and square- not round and soft.
Good Video; but how to remove flexible duct from the it's box. There is a warning on the box "not to cut the tape". The box seems to be under pressure from compressing the flex duct and I image if I open the box, the flex duct will spring out! Thanks.
Can anyone tell me, how much noise do flexible ducts such as these introduce? I have duct fan and want to make it quieter, would it make sense to move it to a sound isolated location and deliver the airflow via ducts where its needed, or would that be even worse? The airflow is rather strong (It's a 72 Watt duct fan 10 cm in diameter)
Hi mate can you tell me why my heating duct outlet below the house is connected to a small ball size device in between the ducts is making a ticking sound lately never stops ticking please advise the problem? thanks
Can I use flex for a real tight turn on a heat run in a basement ceiling. Using standard 5 inch ducting has made the turns way to deep into head room area.
Its a great trade but it will make a young man old! I'm a 30 year journeyman, transition over into commercial/Industrial refrigeration after you get a few years under your belt. Better money!
hi. the ductwork in my garage condensates like crazy in our 95 degree summers, especially when the garage door is open. there is no outside duct insulation. but, there is an insulating liner inside this supply line, which is pure shit! it's not taped or glued together inside, and consists of smaller pieces, some of which had fallen over/down inside and was blocking a ton of air! this is pretty ridiculous, in my book. our kids bedrooms (located over the garage) are always hot in the summer and cold in the winter. i discovered the builder had simply layed cheap 6" slinky bathroom exhaust type duct inside this supply line. there wasn't even a proper attachment with a boot! so not only is this duct probably not receiving an adequate amount of flow (and leaking), it's blocking flow in the supply line for the rest. this ductwork is all within our garage ceiling, which contains batt insulation that covers this 6" duct. it's obviously better than no insulation at all, but i imagine it can't be better than using a properly insulated 6" duct like you demonstrated here. it's frustrating because I just got done relocating a different duct attached to this supply line, to be more efficient and leak-free. I also taped and goop'd all the leaky joints i could get my hands on. even the main trunk coming off the AC unit had sizable leaks at each corner on each end (8 total). I always thought it was strange that my garage overnight would somehow become significantly cooled, but I didn't realize it must have been from all the leaks! am I on the right track and could you reassure my wife i'm not wasting my time?
+Rich J. You are definitely on the right track. I would attach the 6" lines correctly and then add dampers to all the other runs to redirect some of the air back to the kids room. You would have to adjust the dampers so that you have some sort of balance. but stick with it. you can do it!
The Sheet Metal Kid Actually, although it should be sealed, no professional HVAC people I know use mastic. Tape + panduit is the way professionals do it here ... I'm not saying this way is code, all I'm saying is the professionals I know do not use mastic, only tape + panduits.
Wow I'm extremely glad the sheet metal kid made this vid!!
I am glad you watched it!
This was exactly what I was looking for, thanks. Found a huge rip in my air system after my mom spend all winter complaining about our bill.
Let me update you on your practices. One would think flex duct connected with a panduit strap only is a sealed joint you would be wrong. In an attic duct leakage is a huge waster of energy especially through the return flex. LEED or Leadership in Energy Efficiency Design requires mastic on the collar where it connects to the register box or boot, the boot sealed to the sheet rock, and when installing flex mastic is spread on the collar the flex is slid into place over the mastic, a strap is installed. More mastic is spread on the outside sealing the end of the flex to the collar. The flex insulation is then pulled down and held from lifting off with tape or by some other means. Never strap over the insulation as it will be compressed and made ineffective.
On Platinum LEED installations we spray foam over the finished connection sealing the flex to the boot and the boot to the sheet rock. Yes this costs more, but for instance it is common place to reduce the capacity of the system by up to one ton. We recently took out 8 tons and put in 4 tons just by sealing and insulating the new duct system to LEED standards. Would you think the homeowner would get a payback? We have reduced electrical hvac bills by 80% in doing so this with no other changes to the property envelope.
unbelievably helpful. thank you!!!!
If you were able to take out 8 tons and replace it with 4 tons, then the initial company that sold the customer 8 tons ripped them off by Oversizing the equipment needed for the load. It's not that it was leaking 4 tons of air, that's ridiculous. I'm sure it was leaking some, but not that much. They were just trying to make more money by selling them more equipment then was needed. Also, there is nothing wrong with putting a ziptie on the outside of the flex to hold the insulation over the boot or collar. It will compress the insulation some, but not enough to make it sweat. I've been installing for 15 years, and that's how everyone in my state (NC) does it, and I've never seen a job fail inspection for it. Everybody does it a little different, which is okay, as long as it's right. All my job get blower door tests to test the duct for leakage, and I've never had a job to fail the test. Actually, my jobs are always the tightest at my company. I had one job with less than 1% leakage, which is awesome, but I use a lot of mastic. It's impossible to have a job test 0% leakage, less than 1% is as low as you can get, and it means it was sealed perfectly.
I remember I learn how to do this when I was 15, in H.S., working for this ac contractor for 5 dollar a hour.
Thanks for the help! I purchased an adjustable 90 degree elbow and applied the techniques that you taught. My home is nice and cool and it's 90 degrees outside. Thanks & God Bless!!!
I used my tin snips back in the day when I was a green horn once and only once!!!! My journeyman lead training me made me use them anyway for at least a few months! It was fun cutting sheet metal with messed up snips........
very nice job iv'e seen that horrible work done no strap's bent restricted air flow that is a very good tip thank you for sharing KiD!!!!!
Great video! I'm finishing my basement and need to reroute a stretch of my ductwork, and raise it for my drop ceiling, because some pvc piping is in the way, not allowing me to raise it to the height where I need it. I was going to call an HVAC company, but this seems simple. almost like hooking up a dryer vent.
You are a good teacher sir! Thanks!
Local 105 here Brother! love you vids. I'll be recommending your channels to my fellow apprentices for sure! Thank you.
side cutters can be used to tighten panduits, after zipping it down grab it with the side cutters and with a twisting motion tighten the panduit. i havent bought a panduit tool in years and my bag is lighter
agreed john roesti I dont use them on the job but for the sake of demonstration
Linesmen work great..
Use a second panduit strap to keep the insulation on...it looks better and is easier when in a tight space
This Ryan guy looks a lot like Ryan from The Office. Thanks for the tutorial!
Except better looking!
Great video dude now I got to go out and get under the house.
Rod Sapyta Good luck!!!
If you put mastic on the inside of flex and then slide it onto the boot it will make an excellent seal. Great video thanks
+stlwrkr68 Touché
I have to disagree a little with your install of flex to boots/taps. the biggest concern I have is that you do not seal the mylar (plastic inside the insulation) to the metal. This can be a huge air loss even with the banduit strap tight. taping the insulation wrap is good however I suggest it be secured to the to the metal at the end as well so it stays tight and insulated (no gaps for heat transfer). banduit is good, I prefer a screw tight against the banduit or the wire inside the mylar after the tape is used to seal it to the metal, the tape also stops the mylar from ever tearing. Thanks for sharing, Good Luck.
That is exactly how I was taught 30 years ago.
we always apply mastic to the inner liner of the flex before putting it to the metal. then we pull the outer insulation layer and fab and mastic it to the box.
you did a nice job!
Nice video, saved money
I saw you have a local 104 shirt on. I'm also part of that local. district 1. what company do you work for. I have actually ordered duct from you to support our industry and entrepreneurs like yourself. keep doing what your doing brother. I was taught to zip tie, then tape then zip.tie outer jacket. I'm sure it's different everywhere but here in sac that's what we do
Hey Andrew, yes I was actuall 4th Generation in 104 starting with my Great Grandfather Owr Murray. But I recently transferred out of the bay area up North to Oregon.
The Sheet Metal Kid how much would you charge to install all new ducts? I think there is 12.
very helpful video. I have a question though, I live in FL and trying to partition my garage so I have a small office. the air handler is in the garage, so I was hoping to install a vent right on top of the handler, but I can't install a rough-in box. any thoughts ? this part of the insulation is big, solid, and square- not round and soft.
Would i be guilty for using household scissors to cut flex duct? (Including the wire helix!)
Machine Man Whatever works for you!
If the vent duct does not have a bead, can I use a screw to hold the metal in the flex duct from coming out, have you ever heard of this?
Yes that is fine Ojeramup12
well he did everything right... must be a union guy!
Local 104 SMK...Did you serve apprenticeship in Local 104? If so when did you turnout?
Good Video; but how to remove flexible duct from the it's box. There is a warning on the box "not to cut the tape". The box seems to be under pressure from compressing the flex duct and I image if I open the box, the flex duct will spring out! Thanks.
Yeah, it doesn't tend to spring out enough to hurt anyone too seriously
mastic recommend in fl.inspector would insist.turn down. but good video.
Never loan your tools to anyone, ever. The only ex exception might be a pencil.
+mybadvette AMEN!
I make Flexible Air ducts for a living any inch with R4,R6,R8 ... its really itchy job though
lmao.....
Can anyone tell me, how much noise do flexible ducts such as these introduce? I have duct fan and want to make it quieter, would it make sense to move it to a sound isolated location and deliver the airflow via ducts where its needed, or would that be even worse? The airflow is rather strong (It's a 72 Watt duct fan 10 cm in diameter)
You can use a flex connector if you are getting fan noise in rigid duct
Flex is quieter than sheet metal. We use it in recording studios.
Hi mate
can you tell me why my heating duct outlet
below the house
is connected to a small ball size device in between the ducts is making a ticking sound lately never stops ticking
please advise the problem?
thanks
Can I use flex for a real tight turn on a heat run in a basement ceiling. Using standard 5 inch ducting has made the turns way to deep into head room area.
I would utilize an elbow if its too tight the flex can kink
looks pretty simple.I'm about to start school for HVAC myself.any advice?
Its a great trade but it will make a young man old! I'm a 30 year journeyman, transition over into commercial/Industrial refrigeration after you get a few years under your belt. Better money!
no pookie?
No..you can to be wild and out tho...lol
what local are you im 263
1st year apprentice
hi. the ductwork in my garage condensates like crazy in our 95 degree summers, especially when the garage door is open. there is no outside duct insulation. but, there is an insulating liner inside this supply line, which is pure shit! it's not taped or glued together inside, and consists of smaller pieces, some of which had fallen over/down inside and was blocking a ton of air! this is pretty ridiculous, in my book.
our kids bedrooms (located over the garage) are always hot in the summer and cold in the winter. i discovered the builder had simply layed cheap 6" slinky bathroom exhaust type duct inside this supply line. there wasn't even a proper attachment with a boot! so not only is this duct probably not receiving an adequate amount of flow (and leaking), it's blocking flow in the supply line for the rest. this ductwork is all within our garage ceiling, which contains batt insulation that covers this 6" duct. it's obviously better than no insulation at all, but i imagine it can't be better than using a properly insulated 6" duct like you demonstrated here.
it's frustrating because I just got done relocating a different duct attached to this supply line, to be more efficient and leak-free. I also taped and goop'd all the leaky joints i could get my hands on. even the main trunk coming off the AC unit had sizable leaks at each corner on each end (8 total). I always thought it was strange that my garage overnight would somehow become significantly cooled, but I didn't realize it must have been from all the leaks! am I on the right track and could you reassure my wife i'm not wasting my time?
+Justin Wittock You need to hire an hvac contractor to do the job the right way. Or fix it yourself but a true professional is the way to go.
+Rich J. You are definitely on the right track. I would attach the 6" lines correctly and then add dampers to all the other runs to redirect some of the air back to the kids room. You would have to adjust the dampers so that you have some sort of balance. but stick with it. you can do it!
Sparky is a bad man, he will abuse your tools.
You forgot to seal it with mastic, the connection should be sealed.
sorry 88skisupreme
The Sheet Metal Kid Actually, although it should be sealed, no professional HVAC people I know use mastic. Tape + panduit is the way professionals do it here ... I'm not saying this way is code, all I'm saying is the professionals I know do not use mastic, only tape + panduits.
Way, way, way too much talking. Just do it.
+Gordon Larson thanks :P