I did exclusively industrial work for 30 years. Now I'm working residential and have to learn all the supply house nomenclature. I feel like an apprentice!!
There's a big difference between the two, industrial v res. I used to make square and round/spiral duct for a commercial company. Had to make it to spec via blueprint job to job. Totally different than popping together some trunk line and strapping up flex
Craig, thank you for doing what you do. It is so beneficial to have you as an instructor. I have yor books and they are of great quality and such an outstanding tool to learn the tech side of things.
Good video, will attempt to replace this metal octopus in my basement in April or May when I am nolonger using the furnace and this info will be a big help.
The damper is a very important aspect of any Hvac System to balance cfm to each supply register .(manul or motorized dampers ).There are fitting terms used by old timers that in the name explain what it does .Example a double offsett double transition offesetts to the side and up or down and changes dimension on both sides. Skilled sheetmetal workers can make offsets on the job by using the owl method to cut a pie angle out of ducts to make move up or side to side maximum of 15 inches in a 4ft section .owl is short for offestt x width divided by the length .Also Skilled metal workers can modify straight ducts to become square elbows on the job. By skilfully cutting and bending making sure to add turning veins to help airflow.Bar folds and bending tongs are need to modify duct along with a way to cut Pittsburg seams with a cutting wheel, Sawzall metal blade or bulldog snips if your strong enough and your snips are sharp . Most residential hvac ducts use s and drive connection and use a standing s for larger ducts .Comercial jobs with huge ducts use TDC connections or ductmate . it's handy to always have afew cross breaked sheets of metal on your truck to make in place transitions to new equipment. Good hvac metal workers can make filter racks on the job with a slide door that slides threw slocks.Black iron grease ducts are welded connections and hung using threaded rods and unistrutt and need access panels for cleaning .Ceiling heights are important in duct instalation and elevations of intersecting ducts .Large complex comercial jobs require laying out duct runs on the floor and transfering of hanger locations to the ceiling.Often in complex instals the Installer has to think many steps ahead as not to block other trades prevent blocking other ducts to be installed and code requirements. Best to work from top down on tight mechanical rooms and seal ducts 100 percent with brush on duct seal with a Nickel depth thoroughly brushed into seams .
I'm glad you put the note about the plenum for starting out. Plenums are not best for flow and increases static pressure when they don't directly transition to main duct trunk . I try to use round duct as much as possible. The air flow in round duct or spiral duct is far better then traditional square duct. The down side is clearance
@MadAtMax.300Blackout that's not completely accurate. Nothing really out flows spiral duct. Usually you see a lot of spiral round duct on commercial applications. Not so much on residential
@MadAtMax.300Blackout in my house I install all round duct including all my branches ( runs) . I have great flow and performance. Glad I did it that way and I didn't use flex duct .
@@pineychristian yes. Not as easy to damage as flex either. It isn't really my thing anymore but I am going to look at a job tomorrow where the guy says he has extreme water damage yet wants to salvage what he can salvage LOL it's Flex of course that the runs are made out of so boy oh boy I probably got more than a handful of work to do
@acservicetechchannel You are the Best on UA-cam.... I learned a lot from your videos To make it Possible for me to install my own AC System and gas furnace. Thank you 👍👍
I wish you would show what materials to use/ how to install register boots for large round duct such as 10,12,14. Sometimes a 6/8 inch pipe doesn’t deliver enough air and It seems like at the box stores you can only get boots fed by up to 8 inches. Just confused on the proper materials to use to get a large pipe to feed a room. Thank you.
I have an old duct system with elbows from exhaust fans to main ductwork. These elbows have under each one of them a glass ductwork access. Can you please tell me what the use of that is?
What do you call the “lip” that screws into the ceiling that catches the AC vent from falling to the floor. I’m able to push the vent up and crawl into the drop ceiling and want to add a new vent off the main supply ducking
I’m a service guy, but have a quick question about duct systems. How do you guys diagnose a system that has a improper duct system installed? What are the symptoms that tells you the duct lay out is not correct?
Before getting to the airflow specifically, you can typically tell from the subcool/superheat on the system if the duct system is good or not. You’ll never reach your targets if the duct system is poor, in my experience anyway
Thank you for all the info! Do you have a web site where you sell ducts? I don't see a link. I am looking for a rectangular double radius tee to place in a wall (2x4 studs), this will feed to two different rooms. I am unable to find this anywhere.
I really want to know as a technician about duct sizing and determining if some duct work needs redone. I always hear that duct sizing is important, but don't see much about the topic.
Start with how to measure static pressure & manometer basics. Every system is different and you need specialty tools to make measurements with, then you can plug numbers into a calculator & write the equation for understanding what sizes and lengths will perform the best.
Duct work basics in pre 95 homes why would duct work have a register on the cold air return next to a basement unit? Improperly installed? Why ? Where should fresh air come from?
please help whats the best securing method vent pipe in the furnace room? ive got to vent something next to my furnace on the left all the way across my furnaces supply duct and into the wall behind. i hear strapping a bracket into the duct is wrong
Hello! I hope you can help me out. I need to make a T with and existing (let's say the horizonal part of the T already exists) on my home's ductwork. We recently moved a wall to make a room larger, and now the original duct is about 4" away from the wall. We plan on cutting a rectangle from the duct, but it obviously doesn't reach the wall, as I just mentioned. Could we use a rectangular duct collar? If not, how do I make the addition/extension? Thanks!
It would be a duct within the joist bay. Its ridiculous but I believe most people were not sealing the wooden and sheetrock bays correctly on the returns and thats likely why they changed this.
@@acservicetechchannel if you seal the bay completely with mastic, can it be used? Or is it completely banned? Also, considering most joist bays are 14.5” X 8”, are we expected to install a square duct of this size to achieve the same air flow? Or a large 7-8” round duct?
Always good to follow all your vedios. I wish that you will make a vedio about how to setup a commercial top unit and commercial ductwork that will be great.thank you..
I have a 420 square foot building with a furnace and a 4 foot plenum. I bought 16"x8" rectangular ducts that run 24 foot long with six 6" vents. Are the ducts too big? Should I go with a 14"x8" or a 12"x8" duct size? I haven't installed the 16"x8" yet so I could exchange it. Thanks.
How air-tight should the seams be? Do the connections need to 'breathe'? I hear a lot of expansion and contraction noises when the furnace cycles. Would that get worse or better if the connections were less leaky?
@@JM-gx7iv Thank you for putting my mind at ease. It was put together by farmers who got HVAC licenses back when the only exam question was: What's the difference between a hammer and a screwdriver? Answer: A hammer is what you use when things don't fit; a screwdriver is what you do to the customer when the get the bill. That hackjob from the 1960s has more splices of flat metal than Frank and Stein's Monster.
@@vaccinefraud5570 you get return air leakage and supply air leakage when it's not sealed well. You in general can have terrible airflow with those circumstances as well as a loss of cooling/heating capacity. The system won't perform well with poor airflow. It's can be quite the expense for some, but getting the ductwork replaced would make your system operate much more efficiently.
Don’t forget on 90’s and 45’s you can get a rounded inside bend or a tight which is bent . With the tight it’s easier to go around things if there’s room .
They unfortunately still use cardboard panning for returns with all kinds of holes from plumbers and electricians. Montana is a lot behind the times...
Depends on the context, are you using in to reduce a supply line coming to a end or reducing a branch? Normally for a supply I’d reduce about 1/3 to 1/4 the length to not end up having issues pressurizing the duct, for the branch I’d reduce if I needed to change the diameter to fit it onto a end boot, or another fitting. That depends on if you’re using the same diameter pipe for your branches as your boots, if you use one continuous size for boots you would likely only need a reducer for the supply and possibly return if you use a metal return, and not thermoboard.
@@VikingunicornzZz it would be for the trunk duct on a reducing extended plenum. Would you place one after you’ve lost so much CFM or FPM or is it solely based on distance?
When I went to trade school our sheetmetal class consisted of learning about the stock market 😅 good memories. Instructor was a big fan APPL.
I did exclusively industrial work for 30 years. Now I'm working residential and have to learn all the supply house nomenclature. I feel like an apprentice!!
Always learning 🙂
I’m sure it’s not nearly as detailed or even complicated. You’ll pick up on it easy peezy
There's a big difference between the two, industrial v res.
I used to make square and round/spiral duct for a commercial company. Had to make it to spec via blueprint job to job. Totally different than popping together some trunk line and strapping up flex
Craig, thank you for doing what you do. It is so beneficial to have you as an instructor. I have yor books and they are of great quality and such an outstanding tool to learn the tech side of things.
one of the best teaching i ever watched. my first heater install for my home. thanks
Good video, will attempt to replace this metal octopus in my basement in April or May when I am nolonger using the furnace and this info will be a big help.
The damper is a very important aspect of any Hvac System to balance cfm to each supply register .(manul or motorized dampers ).There are fitting terms used by old timers that in the name explain what it does .Example a double offsett double transition offesetts to the side and up or down and changes dimension on both sides.
Skilled sheetmetal workers can make offsets on the job by using the owl method to cut a pie angle out of ducts to make move up or side to side maximum of 15 inches in a 4ft section .owl is short for offestt x width divided by the length .Also Skilled metal workers can modify straight ducts to become square elbows on the job.
By skilfully cutting and bending making sure to add turning veins to help airflow.Bar folds and bending tongs are need to modify duct along with a way to cut Pittsburg seams with a cutting wheel, Sawzall metal blade or bulldog snips if your strong enough and your snips are sharp .
Most residential hvac ducts use s and drive connection and use a standing s for larger ducts .Comercial jobs with huge ducts use TDC connections or ductmate . it's handy to always have afew cross breaked sheets of metal on your truck to make in place transitions to new equipment. Good hvac metal workers can make filter racks on the job with a slide door that slides threw slocks.Black iron grease ducts are welded connections and hung using threaded rods and unistrutt and need access panels for cleaning .Ceiling heights are important in duct instalation and elevations of intersecting ducts .Large complex comercial jobs require laying out duct runs on the floor and transfering of hanger locations to the ceiling.Often in complex instals the Installer has to think many steps ahead as not to block other trades prevent blocking other ducts to be installed and code requirements. Best to work from top down on tight mechanical rooms and seal ducts 100 percent with brush on duct seal with a Nickel depth thoroughly brushed into seams .
Great vid man! Thats quite a lot of handy items there.
You have really excelled after getting your 1st job working with an AC company!
I came up in Sheetmetal, gutter, metal roofs, flashings. Learning how to build in the shop..
Fun to have had the lessons, thanks for your video!!
Video start at 0:58
I'm glad you put the note about the plenum for starting out. Plenums are not best for flow and increases static pressure when they don't directly transition to main duct trunk . I try to use round duct as much as possible. The air flow in round duct or spiral duct is far better then traditional square duct. The down side is clearance
Round duct is best for residential. Clearance be damned
@MadAtMax.300Blackout that's not completely accurate. Nothing really out flows spiral duct. Usually you see a lot of spiral round duct on commercial applications. Not so much on residential
@@pineychristian spiral no but round yes. Most of any installation on new homes yrs ago that I did was almost always round trunk.
@MadAtMax.300Blackout in my house I install all round duct including all my branches ( runs) . I have great flow and performance. Glad I did it that way and I didn't use flex duct .
@@pineychristian yes. Not as easy to damage as flex either. It isn't really my thing anymore but I am going to look at a job tomorrow where the guy says he has extreme water damage yet wants to salvage what he can salvage LOL it's Flex of course that the runs are made out of so boy oh boy I probably got more than a handful of work to do
Little fast but great information. Liked you showed all the different types
Thanks for your encouragement!!
@acservicetechchannel You are the Best on UA-cam.... I learned a lot from your videos To make it Possible for me to install my own AC System and gas furnace. Thank you 👍👍
I was going to try this myself, but having second thoughts. Good video.
good vid. the nomenclature and explanations helped a lot. thanks, M
Very educated material, thank you
Great job, very nice! Maybe we can have a try. Thank you.
Answered so many questions in this. Thankyou!
Great video! I haven’t seen this on any other videos. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Craig looks like a gang member throwin up gang signs with the excessive use of his hand motions. 😆
That intro is badass my brother!
Jackets nice af
Intro is pretty badass, nice improvement!
Like the new intro!
Good info as always.
Thank you!
Rockstar introduction
Good video. Excellent orientation.
Great video, keep them coming. Thanks
I wish you would show what materials to use/ how to install register boots for large round duct such as 10,12,14.
Sometimes a 6/8 inch pipe doesn’t deliver enough air and It seems like at the box stores you can only get boots fed by up to 8 inches.
Just confused on the proper materials to use to get a large pipe to feed a room.
Thank you.
Great video. I'm trying to figure out how to add an outdoors solar air heater in to the intake duct. It blows out of a 4" or 6" duct. Any ideas?
Yes more duct videos please!
Dedication, thank you for all your content, good stuff 🙏🏼💯
Thank you so much! It means a lot!
Maybe even a book ... and a book on heating
We have our one book at www.acservicetech.com and on amazon. We are presently working on a minisplit book at the moment, thanks!
awesome bro. would appreciate if you could if possible put some labelling for nomenclature of the parts. Nice video.
Thanks Craig always appreciated
Should you use fiberglass liner to reduce noise?
I have an old duct system with elbows from exhaust fans to main ductwork. These elbows have under each one of them a glass ductwork access. Can you please tell me what the use of that is?
What do you call the “lip” that screws into the ceiling that catches the AC vent from falling to the floor. I’m able to push the vent up and crawl into the drop ceiling and want to add a new vent off the main supply ducking
I’m a service guy, but have a quick question about duct systems. How do you guys diagnose a system that has a improper duct system installed? What are the symptoms that tells you the duct lay out is not correct?
Static, poor airflow
Before getting to the airflow specifically, you can typically tell from the subcool/superheat on the system if the duct system is good or not. You’ll never reach your targets if the duct system is poor, in my experience anyway
how do I design such HVAC systems? what is the best fabrication software?
Great video!
Nice work
Thank you for all the info! Do you have a web site where you sell ducts? I don't see a link. I am looking for a rectangular double radius tee to place in a wall (2x4 studs), this will feed to two different rooms. I am unable to find this anywhere.
I really want to know as a technician about duct sizing and determining if some duct work needs redone. I always hear that duct sizing is important, but don't see much about the topic.
Start with how to measure static pressure & manometer basics. Every system is different and you need specialty tools to make measurements with, then you can plug numbers into a calculator & write the equation for understanding what sizes and lengths will perform the best.
Duct work basics in pre 95 homes why would duct work have a register on the cold air return next to a basement unit? Improperly installed? Why ? Where should fresh air come from?
please help whats the best securing method vent pipe in the furnace room? ive got to vent something next to my furnace on the left all the way across my furnaces supply duct and into the wall behind. i hear strapping a bracket into the duct is wrong
Thank you for the content!
Hello sir!!! Very nice job...do you have any video with new freon R32??????thanks a lot!))))
Genteq Ecm tester vs the zebra universal system? Which one should be used
This video is brought to you by Kermit the Frog, and the letter H
Hello! I hope you can help me out. I need to make a T with and existing (let's say the horizonal part of the T already exists) on my home's ductwork. We recently moved a wall to make a room larger, and now the original duct is about 4" away from the wall. We plan on cutting a rectangle from the duct, but it obviously doesn't reach the wall, as I just mentioned. Could we use a rectangular duct collar? If not, how do I make the addition/extension? Thanks!
Wait, joist panning is no longer allowed!? What’s the alternative? Would you install returns like a standard supply run?
It would be a duct within the joist bay. Its ridiculous but I believe most people were not sealing the wooden and sheetrock bays correctly on the returns and thats likely why they changed this.
@@acservicetechchannel if you seal the bay completely with mastic, can it be used? Or is it completely banned? Also, considering most joist bays are 14.5” X 8”, are we expected to install a square duct of this size to achieve the same air flow? Or a large 7-8” round duct?
Always good to follow all your vedios. I wish that you will make a vedio about how to setup a commercial top unit and commercial ductwork that will be great.thank you..
thank you craig , wich insulation product u use to cover metal ducts in the attic after the install?
Are you still available to answer questions??
Craig, instead of using a supply box type plenum can I go straight off the air handler with a large vertical 90?
Yes or a transition to that would create less friction, thanks!
I have a 420 square foot building with a furnace and a 4 foot plenum. I bought 16"x8" rectangular ducts that run 24 foot long with six 6" vents. Are the ducts too big? Should I go with a 14"x8" or a 12"x8" duct size? I haven't installed the 16"x8" yet so I could exchange it. Thanks.
Probably too late but u should do a cfm calculation
How air-tight should the seams be?
Do the connections need to 'breathe'?
I hear a lot of expansion and contraction noises when the furnace cycles. Would that get worse or better if the connections were less leaky?
It should be as air tight as possible. The noises are probably due to the plenum having no cross breaks.
@@JM-gx7iv Thank you for putting my mind at ease. It was put together by farmers who got HVAC licenses back when the only exam question was: What's the difference between a hammer and a screwdriver? Answer: A hammer is what you use when things don't fit; a screwdriver is what you do to the customer when the get the bill. That hackjob from the 1960s has more splices of flat metal than Frank and Stein's Monster.
@@vaccinefraud5570 you get return air leakage and supply air leakage when it's not sealed well. You in general can have terrible airflow with those circumstances as well as a loss of cooling/heating capacity. The system won't perform well with poor airflow. It's can be quite the expense for some, but getting the ductwork replaced would make your system operate much more efficiently.
Great info. Thanks Craig.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
What would happen if you oversize the duct .
Do u have a video on teeing into pressure switches
we just did a video on pressure switches in October 2021. Look up "acservicetech pressure switches" thanks
@@acservicetechchannel thanks i will
Don’t forget on 90’s and 45’s you can get a rounded inside bend or a tight which is bent . With the tight it’s easier to go around things if there’s room .
I have new duct trunk but I notice it has no creases and it makes a bang noise every time it turns on and off . help !
The supply plenum and return plenum need cross breaks in them.
They unfortunately still use cardboard panning for returns with all kinds of holes from plumbers and electricians. Montana is a lot behind the times...
What dictates where you put a reducer and how many you need?
Depends on the context, are you using in to reduce a supply line coming to a end or reducing a branch? Normally for a supply I’d reduce about 1/3 to 1/4 the length to not end up having issues pressurizing the duct, for the branch I’d reduce if I needed to change the diameter to fit it onto a end boot, or another fitting. That depends on if you’re using the same diameter pipe for your branches as your boots, if you use one continuous size for boots you would likely only need a reducer for the supply and possibly return if you use a metal return, and not thermoboard.
@@VikingunicornzZz it would be for the trunk duct on a reducing extended plenum. Would you place one after you’ve lost so much CFM or FPM or is it solely based on distance?
你看上去很健康，没有大肚子~~~
👍👍 Thanks for sharing.
The supply house doesn’t have ductwork d bag
Vertical = stack 90
Horizontal = flat 90
My supplier calls them the opposite, it's extremely annoying.
:-)....... Thank you
Español por favor !!!
Sir I am duct fitter you have vacancy tell me
Ser can i scol in u..
Hindi
👍
Could we make informative videos that don't include unnecessary rock music and slow motion "cool guy" walking scenes?
Ha ha, I think thats the only slow walk one there is. Maybe 15 out of 500 have music and they are sporatic, thanks for letting us know!
This sounds like work,I better stay away from this.
😂😂😂😂😂
I was thinking the same thing
Stay away from ductwork at all costs 😂😂😂
🤣🤣🤣🤣
It's not that bad I've been doing it five weeks and I'm finding it decent so far I'm hoping I can learn more by watching these videos
Ya.you.nice.wocheng