Fantastic video. No annoying music or pointless "production" tricks and NO vertical video. Just the info, clear and concise. Give yourself a pat on the back mate. Well done.
I was dreading this process, but then I saw that your video isn't too long. I'm very relieved that I don't have to take the entire thing apart. Thank you!
Toyota Master Tech here. The u joint does not have to maintain the same alignment with the pinion flange. It’s only when you’re disassembling a driveshaft that you have to make sure everything is indexed properly. The driveshaft is not balanced while attached to the pinion flange so that is why it doesn’t matter. If you noticed in your video, you do not necessarily reinstall the pinion flange on the same pinion splines so it makes no difference.
@@jacobdionne4334 Did the 90 ft-lbs of torque on the pinion nut really matter when you already had it aligned with the previous staking mark? Or is the 90 ft-lbs just a good rule of thumb if you fail to count turns?
@@thelandcruiserproject it depends what you’re doing. If you doing anything but simply replacing the pinion seal then you have to replace the crush sleeve and retorque.
This video was super helpful. Love the tip about the 54mm socket to get the seal in, was having no luck with other methods. It did made the job a breeze once I got it.
Good work dude , I had a dripping oil from my differential, not much really, one drop a day , on a clean surface, that's too much. I have 84 Toyota Cressida,its differential is as your pickup, it uses the same oil seal number. I was encouraged by your video , to do the job, I did it exactly as you did. The shiny nut , took little torque to loose , I didn't bother counting the turns, just remember the place, no way to be missed, I had a very hard time removing the old seal, I freezed the new seal for easy fit,I retightened the shiny 24 mm nut , again not the torque you stated , but with the torque it needed to put it , where it was before, removing the pinion was very easy , no tool was needed . And something, that you didn't mention , which is to empty the oil from the diff. Before you start, I created a mess by that . And pour a new gear oil in it , around 1.4 L ,to keep diff. And seals in good shape . Thanks again for posting this video.
Good call on draining the fluid. I didn't need to because my truck is lifted, so the pinion angle is up for the driveshaft to meet the transfer case. But on a car you will definitely want to drain the fluid to avoid a mess.
When I was redoing my Tahoe's rear axle pinion seal I put the nut back on with an impact and ever since the rear pinion seal leaks and I can move the driveshaft up and down at the yoke. I didn't know better back then but believe it or not I still have not fixed it. Been running the truck like that for about 12 years now. Man them 14 bolts are tough.
Sweet video. I'll need to do this soon on my 88 dually resto-mod. Very helpful! Please make some proper triangular/wedge wheel chocks though. Wayyy safer than 2x4s. You're too valuable to lose to a shop accident! Thanks for all your videos and stay safe!
Thanks for all the information and the other videos. Definitely makes it A LOT easier to work on my own truck so i don't get the stiffy from a mechanic
you all probably dont give a damn but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account?? I was stupid lost the password. I love any tricks you can offer me.
Really enjoyed that. My wife has bought a 1994 HiAce with this exact problem. I live in the UK and van is import so I can not find anywhere to buy the seal. If you or anyone have any ideas it would be greatly appreciated.
It’s actually not as important to count the turns on the nut as it may seem. The crush washers are pretty stiff, if you just run it back down and don’t hammer on it too much with an impact, you’ll be fine. But I’d put a mark on the nut and the pinion shaft so you have a good idea of where the nut was. Toyotas diffs aren’t very sensitive, thankfully.
Awesome work I’m really looking forward to working on my 86 four-wheel-drive original 130 3000 miles with air-conditioning mind you I can’t wait to watch that video
Great video. If you torque it to a specific ft lbs, the prior step of counting the turns is pointless, no? It's going to stop at 90 ft lbs regardless and wind up in the same position. Also, did you make the shaft and the yoke even though you didn't separate them? I may have missed it but seems like the only thing you'd need to mark, if anything at all, is the yoke and the diff flange mating surface.
Yeah, you're right. I wanted to have a backup way to keep track, just in case something was way off. And yeah, once again, I'm in the habit of marking it all just in case.
Don't forget to check breather on top, (my 08 doesn't have a hose) it should spin freely..If clogged it will also cause seal failure..i removed mine and used Gunk spray to loosen it..
Well explained! I have the same truck and I’m about to do this. And while I have the FSM’s too, this video is certainly well worth 1,000 words! It looks like I need to order that wheel bearing socket first. I don’t see what else I could improvise with to set the seal, ..maybe 2 or 3” PVC pipe and a cap.
@@6thGearGarage I wound up using a white 2" PVC pipe end cap. They are for 2" pipe but are 2.75" wide in total, leaving ~ 2mm of room all the way around. It took several tries to get it seated right as one side would go in more, causing the other side to pop up. So I also used a small wooden block and 8oz tack hammer to lightly tap around the perimeter then smack with the centered PVC cap. It worked well and I finally got it in. It wasn't quite as easy as your video makes it out to be but I got it done!
Very good video. I really like the voice-over and you explained every move perfectly. Also, I immediately saw that you have the ideal tires on your truck. Too many folks put too-wides on them. They look great but are inefficient in the rough and fuel consumption. Liked, sub'd.
In hawaii we make it wide there's multiple purposes for going wide stability is 1 and 2 we are surrounded by ocean which equals sand and we noticed wider wheels make better contact for riding on the sand now narrow wheels is good for mud it cuts through better than wide wheels we also noticed narrow wheels work good in the mountains. At the end of the day it all boils down to what you'll be using your rig for some people put wide wheels just for that aggressive look which to me is ok but very useless especially when using it on a 2 wheel drive I think lifting a 2 wheel drive in general is useless again it boils down to preference have a good day man.
Great video. Worked for me. I also left 2 bolts in the drive shaft and proped a crow bar against them and held the pinion flange still with that so the truck wouldn't move. Not sure if better or worse but it worked and no more leak. Thanks!
You can, but for a piece of mind I bought an in/lbs dial torque wrench to properly set preload when I replaced the front pinion seal on my land cruiser.
There is NO way that truck spent it's life in Ohio! Thanks for the video, I have a '77 Toyota FJ40 I need to tighten the pinion nut on, this will help a lot! Let me know if you want to do a video on how to replace the knuckle seals, I'll be happy to loan you my 40! ;)
Dianna Poe I think it was a West Virginia Truck before it ended up in Ohio. I’ve always wanted a 40... if I could only have a small Toyota collection... my 85 needs new seals up front as well, so there will be a video for a front axle rebuild eventually.👍
Because you cannot see the condition of the shaft where the (oil seal lip rides on the shaft), it could be grooved and may cause the new seal to leak sooner than later. It's best to drive the new oil seal in flush with the housing. It will allow the new seal lip to ride on a different location on the shaft.
You verify that the rotation torque is in spec. After you reach 90lbs. Should be around 10-12 inch pounds. You will need to jack the rear off the ground. That verifies the preload has not changed.
Yes I left the diff oil in when changing the front pinion seal on my land cruiser and it doesn't leak out. That was a different axle though, so maybe have a drain pan nearby just in case.
If you haven't done this yet, try 1.2oz of ATP 205 in the differential. I had a chronic leak for years, yesterday I changed to Mobil 1 Syn GL5 and added 1.2oz of ATP 205 and my leak as ceased thus far. But I do have the OEM Toyota Seal standing by.... The ATP 2oz worked on my steering gear box leak also. That has been 6 months ago. I have 1990 4Runner, 306,000 miles.
3:28 my flange comes off with just a few wiggles back and forth that shouldn’t be normal and also the washer that goes on the companion flange is that important? Mine didn’t have it and it’s leaking worse that it did before i changed it literally all the diff fluid came out
After pulling my seal I noticed the pinion has some play in it but it doesn’t look like yours does in the video. Should they have some play if the nut is off?
6th Gear Garage wow! thanks for the reply! 220k miles. Once the nut was removed the front bearing was free to move around. I was able to pull the front pinion bearing and inspect it and it was good. Once reassembled it’s was tight. The nut also threaded a quarter turn past the original location as well. Wondering if I shouldn’t rebuild it all now. Thoughts?
I had my rear pinion seal changed now I get random metal on metal chirping and grinding and shuddering in the front. Do you think its related..? 2008 jeep grand cherokee 3.7 with 166,000 My differential is fine, no whiring sound.? 😊
Great video mate and greetings from downunder. I have a HJ61 Landcruiser that needs the same job done and your video is spot on. I couldn’t see the tool list as you mentioned in the comments. Can you please resend?
@@6thGearGarage ok so I had to ask my daughter to check and you can’t actually see the info via UA-cam on your mobile phone. Need to view it on your computer and there it was. Cheers
10:35 Good trick with Toyota's is jack up the right side and get some more oil in there. They're not like independent axles or gearboxes that requires a specific amount of oil, the more oil the merrier. Also if your Toyota has a Limited Slip diff, don't use the cheapo 90W LS oil, splurge on the Castrol 75W140 BMW Limited Slip oil, it has better properties to retain friction between the clutch plates to grab onto one another, and does a better job of washing off worn friction material.
Noticed gear oil on the ground right below my pinion seal. I had replaced this seal just over 2 years ago with the factory Toyota part. Any idea why it would fail so soon? Thinking I did something wrong the first time... could I get away with just keeping an eye on the rear diff oil level and adding oil accordingly?
Anyone know any tricks for getting the flange back on the spline? I cleaned everything carefully and put some anti-sieze on the spline to try to lubricate it, but after fighting it for a couple of hours, I can't get it on there.
@@6thGearGarageCool, thanks so much. I guess I'm just a nervous novice 😂. I have an 8.4 with 30 splines regeared to 4.88. I paid a local expert to install the 4.88 Nitro Gear kit. Talking to someone else much more competent than me, it sounds like this combination in particular requires a little persuasion. I might use some freeze spray to try to get the spline to shrink slightly. No idea if that'll help. The other thing I'm going to try is inspecting the spline carefully and using a triangular file to gently clean it up if something is out of whack.
Awesome video, mine is leaking pretty good to the point where it’s slinging up on the undercarriage. You think it’s safe to drive a few miles to the Autoparts store? I’m afraid to grenade my rear diff 😬
I'm doing this to my '91 4runner and I'm wondering if with the companion flange removed, is it ok that the pinion wiggles in place? Or can there be a problem with the inner bearing? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Dios les bdendiga mucho,gracias por la informacion sobre como intalar el retenedor nuevo a la toyota pick up muy huena intruciones de como intalarlo. Que Dios les siga bendiciendo sigan hacia delante. Gracias muchas.
Excellent video but you should have marked the pinion shaft with the flange it's more important than marking the drive shaft to the flange, my workshop manual recommends to mark the flange with the pinion shaft. Also you can fit two bolts and four nuts to the flange then you can get purchase using a prybar locked off to the springs, saves chocking wheels a mate.
Rule of thumb for EVERY one removing any driveshafts. Always make sure the wheels are blocked (chocked) first, make sure the truck is in neutral with the brake on . And check driveline for play before removing it. If there it’s stiff and you remove it, you risk your life as it can swing at you .
Dam great video I got an 86 and I've got massive vibration some guys I bought it from may have installed gearing and didn't torque the pinion flange bolt correctly the flange moves alot so I dropped the driveshaft and noticed the bolt can turn with your finger and they locked it in like that smfh I put everything back but tomorrow ill just torque it down to 90ft lbs and see if the vibration goes away.
Yes so I torqued it down and yes the vibration stopped then starting to come back not as bad so I think it loosened up again so sometime this week I'll tend to it again. I'm guessing they tried to install the gears themselves and didn't know what they were doing with the install I don't even think they preloaded anything lmao.
Harrison Filleul www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-LAND-CRUISER-HEAVY-DUTY-SERVICE-SHOP-REPAIR-MANUAL-COPYRIGHT-1984-/123806820359?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
😢 I don't know where else to go. NO mechanic could figure out my problem. I know this the only place that has the answer. I have 98 4runner with 140k, which I gave my son to use. Recently, the car shutter around 50 mph, it feels like it's searching for gear (going up and down shifting) but I know it's not a transmission issue. Only a few think that I can detect, the tranfercase has a front drive shaft seal leak, probably half of the fuild is gone. And the other was a recent front brake pad change. Clicking sound is heard on driverside drive axle spinning it, car shakes around 60-70 after brake change. PLEASE can someone give me some pointer on where to look. Thx u.
Man I realized mine was leaking about a week ago .... never searched "how to's" or said it out loud or told anyone...🤨🤨🤨🤨... The government is getting good.
Anyone doing these needs to be ready for the axle to blow. Not saying it will, but be prepared. I did this on my Dana 44 not knowing better and eventually my gears blew, was able to get it home somehow. Then I had to study how to rebuild my diff. Took a long time and a lot of reading to do it right. Cost more to rebuild than to get a used axle too.
@@6thGearGarage oh geez, it was like 7-8 years ago maybe. I bought my 95 Isuzu Rodeo with about 115k and it now has 160k. Maybe 120-130 lets say. Not trying to doubt you guys and be a troll. I had this problem and didn't know any better at the time. I torqued it down to spec and I can't remember if I had to notch the nut in place. Remember counting the turns and marking it however. Turns really don't matter too much in this scenario bc it will begin to tighten at the right spot. I know you guys put up a disclaimer on the video too, so not calling you out or anything, and i know some people may never have a problem occur. I did after a number of months. You know already that when you're working with fractions of a hair that these things can possibly go haywire. I have a guy's Highlander here now with a leaking diff seal. I told him the possible consequences just in case he wants to try it the cheaper way or just get a used diff and throw it in. His has 175k, 04'. The used diffs on ebay run 200-300
thebenthermit hey all good, I don’t doubt it happened. I’m at 195k mi so I wanna know what to expect in the future. Mine was re-geared around 160k though so it probably has a good amount of life left. Last time I changed the fluid it looked good. Thanks for heads up 👍
@@6thGearGarage did you regear it or did a previous owner, or have you ever done it? I highly recommend getting into it if you're interested. It's fun, well, ripping your hair out kind of fun lol
You may have fixed your pinion seal, but how was your crush sleeve on the pinion? I bet your pinion was loose now that the sleeve has lost its crush. When you replace a seal on a diff, you need to replace the crush sleeve, unless you have a solid spacer on the pinion. Yea, “put the nut back where it was on the pinion” sure. But you can’t recrush a crush sleeve.
It's been a couple of years and it's all good. I showed the alternative to taking everything apart by using proper torque and tightening, because not everyone has the resources to repair it the long way. If you did want to disassemble the 3rd member and replace the crush sleeve, there's a link to those steps in the description.
Houston we have a problem,,I think I am going to have to get a new pinion flange, installed new seal, drive about 30 miles,started leaking again,,there was a little groove but how do you know when the groove is to deep,,ha, it starts leaking again,lol These older trucks are 27 spline , I’m pretty sure,,anywho, oh the agony
Ouch that sucks... If it catches your finger nail it can cause problems. What you can try is slightly overdriving or underdriving the seal to get it in a fresh spot on the flange.
@@6thGearGarage well I actually have 2 different grooves,, oringinal flange,apparently it’s already been done, as far as moving seal from one spot to the next, So I just ordered me a new one with seal and nut
@@6thGearGarage got one from east coast gear today, triple drilled flange with dust cover ,,,,seal and nut ,Yukon brand delivered for 80 buck Just giving you the run down, Thats who I got my gears from as well, when I set them up,,good folks
Fantastic video. No annoying music or pointless "production" tricks and NO vertical video. Just the info, clear and concise. Give yourself a pat on the back mate. Well done.
Thank you! Also, I can't stand vertical video!
I was dreading this process, but then I saw that your video isn't too long. I'm very relieved that I don't have to take the entire thing apart. Thank you!
Glad the video could help!
Toyota Master Tech here. The u joint does not have to maintain the same alignment with the pinion flange. It’s only when you’re disassembling a driveshaft that you have to make sure everything is indexed properly. The driveshaft is not balanced while attached to the pinion flange so that is why it doesn’t matter. If you noticed in your video, you do not necessarily reinstall the pinion flange on the same pinion splines so it makes no difference.
Jacob Dionne thanks for the tech👍
@@6thGearGarage no problem
@@jacobdionne4334 Did the 90 ft-lbs of torque on the pinion nut really matter when you already had it aligned with the previous staking mark? Or is the 90 ft-lbs just a good rule of thumb if you fail to count turns?
@@thelandcruiserproject it depends what you’re doing. If you doing anything but simply replacing the pinion seal then you have to replace the crush sleeve and retorque.
@@jacobdionne4334 Only replaced the pinion flange. Had a wear line that let a new seal leak.
This has to be the cleanest undercarriage that I’ve seen
This video was super helpful. Love the tip about the 54mm socket to get the seal in, was having no luck with other methods. It did made the job a breeze once I got it.
Andrew Griffiths glad to hear it worked👍
Good work dude , I had a dripping oil from my differential, not much really, one drop a day , on a clean surface, that's too much. I have 84 Toyota Cressida,its differential is as your pickup, it uses the same oil seal number.
I was encouraged by your video , to do the job, I did it exactly as you did. The shiny nut , took little torque to loose , I didn't bother counting the turns, just remember the place, no way to be missed, I had a very hard time removing the old seal, I freezed the new seal for easy fit,I retightened the shiny 24 mm nut , again not the torque you stated , but with the torque it needed to put it , where it was before, removing the pinion was very easy , no tool was needed . And something, that you didn't mention , which is to empty the oil from the diff. Before you start, I created a mess by that . And pour a new gear oil in it , around 1.4 L ,to keep diff. And seals in good shape .
Thanks again for posting this video.
ua-cam.com/video/iionDVSSVeg/v-deo.html
Good call on draining the fluid. I didn't need to because my truck is lifted, so the pinion angle is up for the driveshaft to meet the transfer case. But on a car you will definitely want to drain the fluid to avoid a mess.
Engineers who write the manuals make everything so absurdly complicated. Great video and tutorial.
djr------BIG 10-4 on the engineers getting ridiculous
When I was redoing my Tahoe's rear axle pinion seal I put the nut back on with an impact and ever since the rear pinion seal leaks and I can move the driveshaft up and down at the yoke. I didn't know better back then but believe it or not I still have not fixed it. Been running the truck like that for about 12 years now. Man them 14 bolts are tough.
Gamblin!! But yeah thats amazing it's been ok for 14 years!
Sweet video. I'll need to do this soon on my 88 dually resto-mod. Very helpful! Please make some proper triangular/wedge wheel chocks though. Wayyy safer than 2x4s. You're too valuable to lose to a shop accident! Thanks for all your videos and stay safe!
Thanks! 👍
Simple enough,I’ve heard it can b done easily,
Mine just started leaking, thanks for the great video
Well hopefully I can fix mine this weeknd. Not a big mechanic person trying to learn to do it all on my own. Thanks for the videos man they help alot.
Glad to help
Did you succeed?
Thanks for all the information and the other videos. Definitely makes it A LOT easier to work on my own truck so i don't get the stiffy from a mechanic
you all probably dont give a damn but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account??
I was stupid lost the password. I love any tricks you can offer me.
@Weston Genesis Instablaster ;)
Really enjoyed that. My wife has bought a 1994 HiAce with this exact problem. I live in the UK and van is import so I can not find anywhere to buy the seal. If you or anyone have any ideas it would be greatly appreciated.
Very helpful. I was about to go hog wild on a friend's differential and tear the whole thing apart for that front oil seal.
I am very happy about this video because I need to complete the same job! Thank you 6th gear garage!
I also have to do it (actually, I have to re do it)
It’s actually not as important to count the turns on the nut as it may seem. The crush washers are pretty stiff, if you just run it back down and don’t hammer on it too much with an impact, you’ll be fine. But I’d put a mark on the nut and the pinion shaft so you have a good idea of where the nut was. Toyotas diffs aren’t very sensitive, thankfully.
this was great i need to replace seal on my 89 supra this was just what i was looking for! thankyou
Great vid
Doing this tomorrow on my 96 uk mk3.
I don’t need to rush out and but a puller do I, I can just gently tap it off
Oh you mean for the flange? Yeah you need a puller to get it off.
Awesome work I’m really looking forward to working on my 86 four-wheel-drive original 130 3000 miles with air-conditioning mind you I can’t wait to watch that video
Great video. If you torque it to a specific ft lbs, the prior step of counting the turns is pointless, no? It's going to stop at 90 ft lbs regardless and wind up in the same position.
Also, did you make the shaft and the yoke even though you didn't separate them? I may have missed it but seems like the only thing you'd need to mark, if anything at all, is the yoke and the diff flange mating surface.
Yeah, you're right. I wanted to have a backup way to keep track, just in case something was way off. And yeah, once again, I'm in the habit of marking it all just in case.
Love the Toyota videos, keep them coming👍
Don't forget to check breather on top, (my 08 doesn't have a hose) it should spin freely..If clogged it will also cause seal failure..i removed mine and used Gunk spray to loosen it..
Very good tip!
The axle vent clogged on my 1990 4runner causing the pinion oil seal leak. Check this little bugger every once in a while to save heartache
Well explained! I have the same truck and I’m about to do this. And while I have the FSM’s too, this video is certainly well worth 1,000 words! It looks like I need to order that wheel bearing socket first. I don’t see what else I could improvise with to set the seal, ..maybe 2 or 3” PVC pipe and a cap.
Yeah a thick pipe would work too, anything you have laying around with the same outer diameter.
@@6thGearGarage I wound up using a white 2" PVC pipe end cap. They are for 2" pipe but are 2.75" wide in total, leaving ~ 2mm of room all the way around. It took several tries to get it seated right as one side would go in more, causing the other side to pop up. So I also used a small wooden block and 8oz tack hammer to lightly tap around the perimeter then smack with the centered PVC cap. It worked well and I finally got it in. It wasn't quite as easy as your video makes it out to be but I got it done!
@@oldowl4290 Nice work!!
Very good video. I really like the voice-over and you explained every move perfectly. Also, I immediately saw that you have the ideal tires on your truck. Too many folks put too-wides on them. They look great but are inefficient in the rough and fuel consumption. Liked, sub'd.
In hawaii we make it wide there's multiple purposes for going wide stability is 1 and 2 we are surrounded by ocean which equals sand and we noticed wider wheels make better contact for riding on the sand now narrow wheels is good for mud it cuts through better than wide wheels we also noticed narrow wheels work good in the mountains. At the end of the day it all boils down to what you'll be using your rig for some people put wide wheels just for that aggressive look which to me is ok but very useless especially when using it on a 2 wheel drive I think lifting a 2 wheel drive in general is useless again it boils down to preference have a good day man.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Super helpful, I was dreading doing this until I watched your video .
It was actually 10x easier to take the seal out this way than when I had completely removed the 3rd member. LOL
If there's an easier way, I'm doing it!
You make it look so easy, but I got it! Thanks for the awesome video!
Great video. Worked for me. I also left 2 bolts in the drive shaft and proped a crow bar against them and held the pinion flange still with that so the truck wouldn't move. Not sure if better or worse but it worked and no more leak. Thanks!
Thanks and good idea!!
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Can you use the "count the turns" method for the front pinion seal for the front diff?
You can, but for a piece of mind I bought an in/lbs dial torque wrench to properly set preload when I replaced the front pinion seal on my land cruiser.
There is NO way that truck spent it's life in Ohio! Thanks for the video, I have a '77 Toyota FJ40 I need to tighten the pinion nut on, this will help a lot! Let me know if you want to do a video on how to replace the knuckle seals, I'll be happy to loan you my 40! ;)
Dianna Poe I think it was a West Virginia Truck before it ended up in Ohio. I’ve always wanted a 40... if I could only have a small Toyota collection... my 85 needs new seals up front as well, so there will be a video for a front axle rebuild eventually.👍
Thanks for the lock nut torque spec i was wondering what it was👍
Because you cannot see the condition of the shaft where the (oil seal lip rides on the shaft), it could be grooved and may cause the new seal to leak sooner than later. It's best to drive the new oil seal in flush with the housing. It will allow the new seal lip to ride on a different location on the shaft.
Good point!
Well done, good footage and narration
Thanks!
you dont need special tools for pulling the seal, you screw in 2 screws on the face of the seal and then pull on the screw head with nail puller. :)
You verify that the rotation torque is in spec. After you reach 90lbs. Should be around 10-12 inch pounds.
You will need to jack the rear off the ground. That verifies the preload has not changed.
Nice work thanks for all the first instructions and advice! Well done mate!
Can you leave oil in the diff for the front as well when you change the pinion seal??
Yes I left the diff oil in when changing the front pinion seal on my land cruiser and it doesn't leak out. That was a different axle though, so maybe have a drain pan nearby just in case.
How did you lift your 87 2wd? I commented earlier, ballpoint spacer??? Or more tension on torsion key? Want to know for my fun field/drag truck
great vid. i'm about to attempt this on my 1991 4runner, wish me luck bro.
Thanks, you got this!!
If you haven't done this yet, try 1.2oz of ATP 205 in the differential. I had a chronic leak for years, yesterday I changed to Mobil 1 Syn GL5 and added 1.2oz of ATP 205 and my leak as ceased thus far. But I do have the OEM Toyota Seal standing by.... The ATP 2oz worked on my steering gear box leak also. That has been 6 months ago. I have 1990 4Runner, 306,000 miles.
awesome. I need to redo my rear pinion seal on my 87’ 4x4 pickup. This is perfect! much appreciated!
Your video is so descriptive, thank you so much this will really help
3:28 my flange comes off with just a few wiggles back and forth that shouldn’t be normal and also the washer that goes on the companion flange is that important? Mine didn’t have it and it’s leaking worse that it did before i changed it literally all the diff fluid came out
I say if Toyota engineers put the washer there, it must be for a good reason.
After pulling my seal I noticed the pinion has some play in it but it doesn’t look like yours does in the video. Should they have some play if the nut is off?
I’m not sure, how much play and how many miles?
6th Gear Garage wow! thanks for the reply! 220k miles. Once the nut was removed the front bearing was free to move around. I was able to pull the front pinion bearing and inspect it and it was good. Once reassembled it’s was tight. The nut also threaded a quarter turn past the original location as well. Wondering if I shouldn’t rebuild it all now. Thoughts?
I had my rear pinion seal changed now I get random metal on metal chirping and grinding and shuddering in the front. Do you think its related..?
2008 jeep grand cherokee 3.7 with 166,000
My differential is fine, no whiring sound.?
😊
I,m no jeep expert, but I don't think it could be related
@@6thGearGarage thank you
Great video mate and greetings from downunder. I have a HJ61 Landcruiser that needs the same job done and your video is spot on. I couldn’t see the tool list as you mentioned in the comments. Can you please resend?
The list is in the video description, not in the comments. Click to read the description for the full list.
Thanks for checking out the video and nice rig... wish we got the diesel in the US.
@@6thGearGarage ok so I had to ask my daughter to check and you can’t actually see the info via UA-cam on your mobile phone. Need to view it on your computer and there it was. Cheers
You made it look easy. Thanks for the good tips.
10:35
Good trick with Toyota's is jack up the right side and get some more oil in there.
They're not like independent axles or gearboxes that requires a specific amount of oil, the more oil the merrier.
Also if your Toyota has a Limited Slip diff, don't use the cheapo 90W LS oil, splurge on the Castrol 75W140 BMW Limited Slip oil, it has better properties to retain friction between the clutch plates to grab onto one another, and does a better job of washing off worn friction material.
Thank you so much for sharing this great video, you did a great job
Thank you!
Great video and sweet Toyota man!
Thanks! I’m obsessed with old Toyotas.
Noticed gear oil on the ground right below my pinion seal. I had replaced this seal just over 2 years ago with the factory Toyota part. Any idea why it would fail so soon? Thinking I did something wrong the first time... could I get away with just keeping an eye on the rear diff oil level and adding oil accordingly?
A clogged breather can cause excess pressure, making the seal leak. Check that first.
@@6thGearGarage thanks for the tip! Will check that first before further diagnosing
Anyone know any tricks for getting the flange back on the spline? I cleaned everything carefully and put some anti-sieze on the spline to try to lubricate it, but after fighting it for a couple of hours, I can't get it on there.
The alignment and angle has to be perfect due to the tight tolerances. I'd give it another try.
@@6thGearGarageCool, thanks so much. I guess I'm just a nervous novice 😂.
I have an 8.4 with 30 splines regeared to 4.88. I paid a local expert to install the 4.88 Nitro Gear kit. Talking to someone else much more competent than me, it sounds like this combination in particular requires a little persuasion. I might use some freeze spray to try to get the spline to shrink slightly. No idea if that'll help.
The other thing I'm going to try is inspecting the spline carefully and using a triangular file to gently clean it up if something is out of whack.
Awesome video, mine is leaking pretty good to the point where it’s slinging up on the undercarriage. You think it’s safe to drive a few miles to the Autoparts store? I’m afraid to grenade my rear diff 😬
Yeah, but I'd check the fluid level first, make sure it's not too low.
Best explanation ever,,
I'm doing this to my '91 4runner and I'm wondering if with the companion flange removed, is it ok that the pinion wiggles in place? Or can there be a problem with the inner bearing? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The companion flange holds the pinion in the center, so some movement is ok. I've had some that moved a lot and some that didnt.
Dios les bdendiga mucho,gracias por la informacion sobre como intalar el retenedor nuevo a la toyota pick up muy huena intruciones de como intalarlo. Que Dios les siga bendiciendo sigan hacia delante. Gracias muchas.
This video was so helpful, thank you.
For the 30 mm socket are you using a 12 point or 6 point socket ?
It’s a 6 point
6th Gear Garage thank you 🙏🏽, I am trying to service my brothers pickup, I came across this video and it’s so informative.
What´s the point of counting the number of turns when you still have to torque it, doesn´t the torque determine where the nut ends up?
Just a safeguard to make sure something's not completely off or wrong.
@@6thGearGarage I see.
Excellent video but you should have marked the pinion shaft with the flange it's more important than marking the drive shaft to the flange, my workshop manual recommends to mark the flange with the pinion shaft. Also you can fit two bolts and four nuts to the flange then you can get purchase using a prybar locked off to the springs, saves chocking wheels a mate.
Perfect job you make easy
So you don't have to drain the diff oil beforehand?
I did not. The angle of the rear axle did not allow fluid to leak from the front.
Rule of thumb for EVERY one removing any driveshafts. Always make sure the wheels are blocked (chocked) first, make sure the truck is in neutral with the brake on . And check driveline for play before removing it. If there it’s stiff and you remove it, you risk your life as it can swing at you .
Great advice!
Thanks for sharing great job. 👍 😊 from rick Perth,😊 Australia 🇦🇺
Outstanding!
Dam great video I got an 86 and I've got massive vibration some guys I bought it from may have installed gearing and didn't torque the pinion flange bolt correctly the flange moves alot so I dropped the driveshaft and noticed the bolt can turn with your finger and they locked it in like that smfh I put everything back but tomorrow ill just torque it down to 90ft lbs and see if the vibration goes away.
Yes so I torqued it down and yes the vibration stopped then starting to come back not as bad so I think it loosened up again so sometime this week I'll tend to it again. I'm guessing they tried to install the gears themselves and didn't know what they were doing with the install I don't even think they preloaded anything lmao.
Is this the same pinion seal setup as a 1985 hj75 land cruiser
It should be a similar process, however some of the torque specs may be different. I would reference a service manual to be sure.
@@6thGearGarage thank you... Where so you find your service manuals as I have struggled to find one for my model troopcarrier
Harrison Filleul I found mine on eBay.
Harrison Filleul is this the one you need?
Harrison Filleul www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-LAND-CRUISER-HEAVY-DUTY-SERVICE-SHOP-REPAIR-MANUAL-COPYRIGHT-1984-/123806820359?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
😢 I don't know where else to go. NO mechanic could figure out my problem. I know this the only place that has the answer. I have 98 4runner with 140k, which I gave my son to use. Recently, the car shutter around 50 mph, it feels like it's searching for gear (going up and down shifting) but I know it's not a transmission issue. Only a few think that I can detect, the tranfercase has a front drive shaft seal leak, probably half of the fuild is gone. And the other was a recent front brake pad change. Clicking sound is heard on driverside drive axle spinning it, car shakes around 60-70 after brake change. PLEASE can someone give me some pointer on where to look. Thx u.
Tire size. 33/10.5R15 ? Great Video by the way.
Brilliant video mate, very easy to understand..cheers
Marking the drive shaft doesn’t help unless you put the flange back on the spline in the same orientation it was removed.
That’s a sweet Toyota.
Man I realized mine was leaking about a week ago .... never searched "how to's" or said it out loud or told anyone...🤨🤨🤨🤨... The government is getting good.
It's scary isn't it? I talked about buying something and now it shows up all over FB marketplace suggestions.
What kinda grease did you put ?
It was some red bearing grease that I already had out.
@@6thGearGarage thanks bro
Anyone doing these needs to be ready for the axle to blow. Not saying it will, but be prepared. I did this on my Dana 44 not knowing better and eventually my gears blew, was able to get it home somehow. Then I had to study how to rebuild my diff. Took a long time and a lot of reading to do it right. Cost more to rebuild than to get a used axle too.
How many miles were on yours when that happened?
@@6thGearGarage oh geez, it was like 7-8 years ago maybe. I bought my 95 Isuzu Rodeo with about 115k and it now has 160k. Maybe 120-130 lets say. Not trying to doubt you guys and be a troll. I had this problem and didn't know any better at the time. I torqued it down to spec and I can't remember if I had to notch the nut in place. Remember counting the turns and marking it however. Turns really don't matter too much in this scenario bc it will begin to tighten at the right spot.
I know you guys put up a disclaimer on the video too, so not calling you out or anything, and i know some people may never have a problem occur. I did after a number of months. You know already that when you're working with fractions of a hair that these things can possibly go haywire.
I have a guy's Highlander here now with a leaking diff seal. I told him the possible consequences just in case he wants to try it the cheaper way or just get a used diff and throw it in. His has 175k, 04'. The used diffs on ebay run 200-300
thebenthermit hey all good, I don’t doubt it happened. I’m at 195k mi so I wanna know what to expect in the future. Mine was re-geared around 160k though so it probably has a good amount of life left. Last time I changed the fluid it looked good. Thanks for heads up 👍
@@6thGearGarage did you regear it or did a previous owner, or have you ever done it? I highly recommend getting into it if you're interested. It's fun, well, ripping your hair out kind of fun lol
thebenthermit it was done by the previous owner. I haven’t ever done gears... yet
How about crush sleeve replacement.
There's a link in the description to the factory service manual section containing the crush sleeve but I don't have a video on it.
great tutorial buddy, thank you.
You're welcome!!
I’m having problems with my 1987 extra cab 4 x 4 I had to change the clutch master cylinder three times aftermarket have you had the same problem?
Although I've been told aftermarket ones from parts stores are china quality, I have not had one fail. How are yours failing? Where are they leaking?
No they just start losing pressure no suction
@@alfonsocasillas7290 Maybe the seal inside is wearing out? That's weird it's happened 3 times now. Hope they had a warranty on the parts!
Great video thank you for your time..😎
Was the grease used Lucas "Red "N" Tacky ?
Billy Thomas no it was just some regular old red bearing grease
@@6thGearGarage Ok so anything like multipurpose or the red n tacky works for that task ?
@@billythomas4527 Any general bearing grease on the inside of the seal will do, just to add a little protection on the seal.
Huge help!
Good job 👏
Use a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on it and tap on the cap side to seat the seal
Great idea!
Awesome video cheers
Thanks 👍
You may have fixed your pinion seal, but how was your crush sleeve on the pinion? I bet your pinion was loose now that the sleeve has lost its crush. When you replace a seal on a diff, you need to replace the crush sleeve, unless you have a solid spacer on the pinion. Yea, “put the nut back where it was on the pinion” sure. But you can’t recrush a crush sleeve.
It's been a couple of years and it's all good. I showed the alternative to taking everything apart by using proper torque and tightening, because not everyone has the resources to repair it the long way. If you did want to disassemble the 3rd member and replace the crush sleeve, there's a link to those steps in the description.
Saved Me Big Buck Thanks Master
Why count the amount of turns if your torquing it to 90ft lbs
Just to make sure something isn't completely off or wrong
Houston we have a problem,,I think I am going to have to get a new pinion flange, installed new seal, drive about 30 miles,started leaking again,,there was a little groove but how do you know when the groove is to deep,,ha, it starts leaking again,lol
These older trucks are 27 spline , I’m pretty sure,,anywho, oh the agony
Ouch that sucks... If it catches your finger nail it can cause problems. What you can try is slightly overdriving or underdriving the seal to get it in a fresh spot on the flange.
@@6thGearGarage well I actually have 2 different grooves,, oringinal flange,apparently it’s already been done, as far as moving seal from one spot to the next,
So I just ordered me a new one with seal and nut
@@clayton203 Well someone had the right idea.. definitely time for a new one!
@@6thGearGarage got one from east coast gear today, triple drilled flange with dust cover ,,,,seal and nut ,Yukon brand delivered for 80 buck
Just giving you the run down, Thats who I got my gears from as well, when I set them up,,good folks
Guessing 225/75r15 🧐 great video man
close... 33x10.50r15
Good job bro
Man I'm putting this off. I'm working on a 4th gen 4runner, I have to pull off the rear diff to replace a leaking gasket.
Right on, might as well do it all at once!
Excellent
Thank you for the video
You're welcome
Hey, sooooo what if I can't get the OEM mark on the nut to bolt to completely line up... Close but off...😬
Awsome video.well explains excellent
great common sense procedure for DIYers
Good job man
Thank you for the nice video.
Damn i like your toyota what a tank
Thanks for the share....
You bet!
Good video...
Thanks!