I go with folding bikes. They are pretty static for the most part. Same size with adjustable seat and handlebar height. My Bike Friday does have a fit and I think the frame I got is slightly too big for me after riding my winter bike all season. That makes me sad. I may keep riding it when I travel though. I feel safer on my old Swift.
I have an ancient and unfashionable rustbucket for urban utility. Not only does nobody want to nick it, they wouldn't have the right size tools to strip it🤣 I mainly use the lock to stop anyone grabbing my handbag from the basket on the way past
Winter 2019/20, while shopping for my new Specialist Tarmac, I was fitted to the 58cm, but I wanted to test the 61cm. It was night and day for me. The 61cm was so much better for me, I felt more comfortable and felt like I moved faster on the higher frame. I know you mention that you prefer smaller frames in this video, but when I see someone on the road, I always find the larger frame riders to catch my eye better.
I have always gone with Manon's view, "you can make a smaller bike bigger." Plus I've found that a slightly smaller bike is more responsive. I size down from a small to x-small.
I have been riding a 56 for years, but after retiring and spending a lot more time on the bike, I found that I was uncomfortable in that size cockpit. I now ride a 58. Every LBS I enter makes a point of telling me that the bike is too big. The fact is, at 69 years old I can stretch out more comfortably on a 58 with a 120mm stem. 2000 miles later, I've had nothing but fun!
I swapped my 110mm bar stem for a 90mm one thanks to GCN How To videos. First trip out and descending at 35mph hoping I had the skill to handle the "twitchier" feel was completely overshadowed by me desperately hoping I had done a good enough job and the bars didn't come off in my hand. Several months in and still attached!!
I swear to god, the topic of the week literally relates to something involving my bike / new bike every second week I personally went smaller frame and always would, they just feel so much more nimble
An additional consideration: a smaller frame with the same fit geometry usually results in more exposed seatpost, which will create more compliance and a less harsh ride
I've always followed the same mantra as Manon - you can make a smaller bike bigger. But sadly, I'm of the Conner mould and most of my bikes look silly anyway :(
Last year, I picked up the Specialized Allez Sport in size 56. I'm just shy of 6 ft at 165 - 175 lbs and sometimes i do feel that i could have gotten a 54.. but the 54 felt too small and kiddy-like as if I was on one of my shorter friend's bike. Maybe some custom larger components might have added to my comfort if i went that route but for my first road bike at 50-80 miles ridden/week, my 56 feels absolutely spot on without getting digital bike fitting.
“No, Conners bike looks great” as your voice raises 5 octaves. Love the playfulness of your channel 🙏🏼 And to answer your question, I have tried a size up and found it to be a bit uncomfortable when emergency stops presented themselves. I felt like I had a long way to go before I could get my feet planted. The size down gives me a safer feeling when coming to a sudden stop and the extra frame rigidity is nice to have when putting the power down and cornering. Thanks guys!
Good video. I recently had this quandary. I purchased a 2023 Cannondale Topstone cabon3L. The manufacturer recommended a medium frame for me-6’ , 210# and a 32” inseam. It also started the I could use a medium, large or an extra large frame. I choose the extra large frame. I had to drop the handlebar to level with the floor, move the shifters and to cut the seat post. After much fine adjustments the bike is perfectly tuned. I wonder if the medium frame would have necessitated the same adjustments.
Also upper body strength/etc. most riders can’t do more than a few pushups, for those of us who can do many, issues with handling like twitch or crosswind with deep section wheels are really kind of hard to comprehend
If you haven't watched their epic ride they released a few days ago, you should. It is worth it just see Manon standing outside of a shop looking at treats through the window. She looked like a little kid with no money, standing outside of a chocolate shop. LOL!
I was in the middle and went larger rather than smaller, but it worked for me. My natural cadence is quite low and I feel most comfortable pushing hard on the pedals, so bigger frame and longer cranks suits my riding style.
My first carbon bike that I built (cheap Chinese frame) was a 56cm, I went for this size because my old steel framed bike from back in the day was this size. When I decided to upgrade my bike I went into my local bike shop to try a smaller (54cm) frame as I had a feeling the 56cm was a bit too big for me. This was the best decision I made as the 54cm is way more comfortable for me.
I'm buying a turbo creo and got online fit for a 54.9 inch tube which is actually exactly what the medium is. I'm a bit leggy for my size 32.75 inseam but it's a hard purchase cause I have to drive 8 hours to go see it, just letting u know what's going on in my life I'm sure u have problems of ur own 😀
I’m exactly between two sizes of Canyons scale, things I take into consideration in addition to what was mentioned are: ape index (proportion between height and wingspan), inseam lenght and body flexibility in general
I put my measurements into Canyon's online system. The numbers were crunched and it came back with 'We don't have a bike to fit you.' Oh to be average!
My first Canyon Endurace I bought was the XL, well my seat post was maxed out but Canyons measurement meter said I could fit a XL. Well, I sent the XL back, bought the 2XL, got a bike fit and I can’t be more happy, I also went from 175mm cranks to 170mm cranks.
Just got a real fit for the first time ! I’m 182 cm but my arms and legs are on the longer side for my height. The data came back with a 58 and 110 stem would be ideal, however a 56 would be the second sizing option for me. The issue with the 56 that were wasn’t much room to play with the stack at all. I would need all the spacers in all the time. I do suggest getting a detailed fit before any purchase. Gives you a much better insight on what your body actually needs versus what you think your body needs.
Back to square one. We are talking about is 5 contact points, saddle, pedals and shifters apex. We should keep same even in different sizes. Which will affect the handling and outlook for sure. we should put safety caution in consideration. moreover, most of the time, stack will be bigger different instead of reach when in one size different.
For tech show Q&A. Question: I'd like to upgrade my SRAM Force AXS eTap to use the new 56/43T Red power meter kit with 10-36T Force cassette in the back. Will the D1 chain be long enough to do so? If not, what is the maximum big chainring size can be used? Anything else besides chain size should be considered? Thank you!
Ollie and Manon judging people while the Canyon on the wall is in the small chainring with a steered front wheel ☹️ Even for April's Fools day it's too much
There are hypocrites, damned hypocrites and the person on set responsible for setting the wall bike properly. That person FAILED and there should be consequences, like mismatched water bottles or having to wash Ollie’s hat.
Great video, I just figured in a fitting, that my frame (top tube) is too large and I need to sit more foreward... the question is, get a smaller frame or maybe try and trick first with a straight seat post...
The size of the shifters makes a big difference. Although I got an one size smaller frame. The shifters of Shimano 105 R7000 (on a CAAD 13) have are long. More than expected.
I'm 182, and should fit 54/55/56 size frames very well, but found out early on in my "career", when I was around 11, that I had to change to the super short stems in order to not suffer from back pains when I ride. Now I'm 35 and still not very flexy and I have a 54 cm Fuji Sportif endurance bike with 55 mm stem, A 55 cm Koga Colmaro endurance bike with 50 mm stem and a 1998 54 cm Peugeot Competition 8000 race bike with a 60 mm stem, and my saddle are always very far forward on the rails with 15 mm offset on the seatpost. I know it must be sacrilegious to many, but that's what I have to do to ride road bikes without discomfort, and that really is the main thing. And it does make the steering very snappy, which I like it, especially for riding around town.
In 1988 a fellow cyclist who was an engineer and maths whiz calculated that my 195cm body required a 68.5cm/27 inch frame. The largest frame in a store was 25 inch/63.5cm, so I paid extra for a custom frame. Before I ordered I tested a friend’s custom 27” Reynolds 653 frame that had stays between the head tide and seat tube for stiffness. The bike shop I chose had built a bike for a 7’2” basketballer, so they seemed a natural choice. When my bike arrived it had no such stiffening and definitely not Reynolds tubing so it was more like a drift bike. (I should have bought a 25” from a proper brand for the price. Or anything from any other bike shop!) I now have a 60cm Trek Domane and a 61cm Specialized Diverge. The old frame is now my indoor bike, with my measurements transferred to it. No worries with standing watt bombs on the KICKR!
With 177cm, I ride 52cm frames (currently a '14 52 SuperSix Evo). I feel like they are more responsive and agile, I like the more compact position and of course, I think that long head tubes look terrible. Never mind my spacer...
I tried a 120mm stem and it felt like I was wrestling with the bike when I’m off the saddle. Harder to rock the bike side to side. I feel comfy with 100-110mm stems. Anything shorter feels unstable in long steep winding descents.
I know how to size up a bike now: I take a tape measure and mediate from the centre of the bar to the top center of the seat and it should be no more than 58cm. The top of the seat for me is only 8-10cm above the top of the bar. That’s it find out your size and you do not need to worry too much anymore about frame size
I'm 1,80m tall and no matter the brand/model, I almost always fall between sizes 54 and 56. Currently I own a '20 Cannondale Superix Evo and a '12 Caad 8, both 54 because I tought I would prefer a more responsible and quicker bike. I went to a bike fitter to adjust the Supersix and it was perfect along the first couple of months when I was a beginner, but since I've got more flexibility sometimes I feel like my torso doesn't fit "into" the reach anymore (I'm kind of long torso/short legs). I've put a 130mm - 10º stem (the original is 100mm -7º) on the bike and felt better, but now I think it might be a bit too long and I'm gonna put a 120mm -7º stem and see what happens. The Caad 8 has virtually the same fit, but the handlebar is lower and it got a 100mm - 7º. I would like to try a 56 frame because I think it would really suit me better.
In my case the choice is easy. I'm 1,96m, I always go for the highest frame available. My 2007 Cannondale CAAD5 is a 63, my Carver UNIQ N08 commuter is a 62. I'm also interested in the ROSE Backroad AL, which leaves me with a 65 option. The downside of that is that I'd have to wait around 6 months for it because it's not the most common of sizes... In my experience too small frames cause some knee issues in me, no matter how high saddle or stem may be. The geometry just doesn't fit...
I am 1.91m but my legs are longer than typical proportions of a person my height. Currently have a 61cm bike as I need it for the seat height required, end up using a smaller stem to make the reach more comfortable
I think you did the right thing, frame size calculators used by brands usually advise the larger one if two sizes might fit. Though that does work for some people, just as many people would prefer the smaller of the two
I’m 180 went for a 56, really was in between sizes in my head and ended up sticking a shorter stem on for now as the geo is a little more racey than what I’m used to! No matter what I did a few cm here and there on treks calculator it had me on a 56. At 178 reckon the 54 be spot on with a longer stem for you. Also the seat mast on the 56 is the large one and I’ve got it nearly all the way down, I think anyone under 180 unless you have long ass legs should go for a 54 and ignore treks chart.
I just purchased a Argon 18 Krypton Pro that I'm still building out. I'm concerned that I may have bought a size too large. I used to ride a BMC 56" (their large), which I thought was perfect, but the fitting tool on Argon's site is now saying that I should have gotten a medium. My mistake for not doing more due diligence, but I'm gonna try to downsize it to make it work.
Garmin always allowed for a change of the pedal body. The plastic (?) interface with the cleat wore away allowing too much float. The only change now is that there are different bodies available. The strain gauges were always on the pedals spindle.
I'm 6' with a 34.5" inseam. My road bike is a 56cm and my gravel bike is a 58. On gravel I like the feel of the bigger frame and the more upright riding position.
Smaller bike sizes have deeper saddle to handle bar drops! For the relatively long-legged human this can be quite steep so in that scenario I would opt for sizing up!
I am 5ft 11 and ride a smaller bike because while I have long legs the length is in my upper leg. My torso is short in comparison. The deciding factor was the cranks. I like 170s. Every one pretty much used 170s a few decades ago with 165 for track
I went from a 2015 54cm SuperSix with a slammed 90mm stem to a 2020 48cm with a 110mm stem. I would say i love the smaller frame but the wheelbase is actually longer on the 48cm, most of the other measurements are very similar.
Many current bikes are quite limiting on stem and bar options and often won't let you change them meaning more expense. I am often between sizes. If you are pushed to the smaller option then they usually come with very short stems so I can't get my ideal reach. If I go up a size to get the reach then the cranks are too long and the bars too wide. With intergrated bars customers often don't get the Pro options of narrower bars (38-40), with stems from 110 to 130.
Great video BUT... am responding to a comment by Manon who said you "can't make a bigger bike smaller" - well I have effectively made my bike smaller. I received a new Specialized Allez Elite (a few years) a result of a frame recall and was given a new 56cm frame but the bike's geometry was different to my original frame (also 56cm). So, changed the stem from 100mm to 90mm, changed the bars to a set of compact ones with a reach of only 8.5cm and replaced the existing seatpost for an inline option. The result, I now have a very good 'fit' on the bike and have, in effect made the frame smaller... Going forward, I'm likely to opt for a 54cm frame.
if your in the middle, it should come down to seat tube angle - if there's big difference in angle, it could really affect your legs/foot positioning. Also keep ing mind relationship between the stem length and front wheel angle
Shorter stem in climbing hills, the handling is more stiffer than the longer stem. I lost a lot of of energy on my upper body. But in a flat the difference is negligible. I prefer to use small size with longer stem because its lighter and load distribution is much better i think.
I'm 5'8, with an inseam of 33 inches. I am literally right between medium and large. I can go either way, but prefer the smaller size for more control. As long as my knees aren't too close to the handlebars, I'm good😄
cant agree more about making a smaller frame fit someone bigger. Long stem and layback seatpost, make it all work, but the center of balance goes out... the supposedly "long 56" frame I bought as a stop gap felt really front loaded and nervous in corners compared to my old 58... thankfully its now gone and replaced with another 58 that fits me even better than my original bike did (even post bike fit)!
I'm relatively new to cycling. an bought a 54cm size frame . . . but i'm 5ft8' an realised i shoulda bought a 52cm frame. but saying that all is good but i do get few aches an pains now an again.
Exactly. Manufacturers confuse consumers by recommending them a size (sometimes two) larger frames than they should. I cannot fathom why they do that - yet almost everyone among them does so.
5'11'' and ride a 52cm colnago. I understand they ride a little larger than the frame suggests but the 52 is maybe 4cm shorter then what would normally be the rec'd size. One thing that never gets considered it seems is where you ride though. In and around a major city you are constantly checking intersections at slower speed, braking at signs and lights, and cornering at 90 degrees more often than not. This leads to more stopping and starting where a smaller frame is exactly what you'd want. What's the tradeoff then? A 54 or even 56 cm frame would allow an easier time getting a better areo tuck and would generally help get into a leaner more areo position when on the hoods. For a race bike I'd opt for 54cm and for bikepacking and gravel rides a 56 would be nice to spend all day on but for everyday punchy city riding the 52 is a glove.
Bike size I was lucky. They had the same model in both large and X-large. For me I sized up. The larger frame felt a lot more stable at speed than the smaller bike. Also since my bike is an "all-road" geometry the smaller frame had me sitting upright just a tad more than I liked. I think it's very bike dependent but I'm definitely more big frame small stem of I can pull it off.
I totally agree, smaller is better!! You cannot make the triangle smaller if you already have a big bike. Just to mention, I did have issues with the toe overlap, but that was only in few occasions, so I stick to the smaller sizes even for next bikes.
i had to create my own Excel Spreadsheet to calculate the desired results. the Stack, Reach, seat tube angle, and head tube angle helped me tremendously. i factored in stem length, stem angle, amount of spacers since i wanted a slam look (minimal spacers) and didn't want to deviate from my existing road bike setup. I found that so many road bikes are drastically different despite the sizing being similar. I highly recommend test riding all bikes in your size to get a feeling for how each handle. i sized my bike to be tad smaller then recommended in order to be flexible with various stems, but then i got an integrated stem/bar system... oh well. it works. i fit and i love it.
I've rode larger frame for 5 years - super steady, kinda comfortable. Riding 2 years with smaller frame, super agile. Kinda harder to descend on higher speeds, but much easyer to commute in chaotic cities. 'Cause of more aggressive stearing speed, need a bit more endurance for long rides
I've fit on a range of bikes. My first was a 57. Always felt that was the best fit for me and it remains my favorite bike I've had. I then got a 56 and loved it. Had to replace the frame and got a professional fit, which put me on a couple 58s. Never liked them. I even raced on them. They were ok, but the front end felt a little high, head tube too big, stem too short and handled a little like a cadillac. For my most recent bike project, I bought the same manufacturer as my original 57, which now only comes in 4 sizes. Got the L, which was identical in geometry to the 57 I had but 1cm shorter. Did all the measurements, specced the components, rode it a few times and it is perfection. The frame is curiously labeled L (55), so I definitely went smaller. My philosophy? Go smaller. However note two things: one, you will likely have more drop or more spacers; two, don't fail to get a professional fit especially if it is your first bike or you have some issues. I had the advantage of knowing the geometry of my original bike that I wanted to match.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE give Bike Vault the respect it deserves!!! My favourite part of the show and yet it seems to be getting shorter and shorter each week. I mean, how is any newbie supposed to know what the rules are when you flash the pic up, say yes, and tinkle (and i do mean tinkle, i mean, put your back into it) the bell. That and when the bike's nicely presented, it's nice to have more than 3secs to appreciate it and wish you had one just like it. I'll expect this complaint to be addressed in the next show! :)
hi, is it okay to buy/use a road bike 2cm below the recommended size for my height? 2cm is quite big size difference I think. I really like the bike and it's the only one left in that design and category and price range, I'm just not sure if 2cm below size will be too small for me. Thanx!!! Blessed be
I'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam and purchased a 61cm over a 58cm without really getting fitted. I have the bike now and feel comfortable but do think now I probably should of sized down. When I stand over bike I have really no space, basically on top of bar. Thankfully it slopes downward where it's not so bad. I originally had a 120 stem but sized down to 110 and its better. Now I'm thinking maybe go for a 100 stem and see how that feels. I don't agree that smaller bikes look better. I think they look funny with the high seat, just my opinion.
I'm 6'2" with a 38 inch inseam. I always have the problem of smaller frames not having a long enough seatpost for my legs, and bigger frames being too long even with a shorter stem.
Jammy sods , you find yourself between 2 sizes ! Me size req XXL either not in stock or available in range , on the rare occasion it is available its out of my price range
I dont think bikes are easily adjustable, 10+ years ago yes, but not now. With aero seatposts, integrated and one piece cockpits, it makes it really difficult and quite expensive. Best thing you can do is get fitted before buying a new bike.
I'm fitted for a 55-56cm depending on manufacturer, at 5'10" I have shorter arms/torso and longer legs, hard to fit standard sizes for my height....but came across some OG Serotta Fierte's, first a steel and then I found a Titanium version a few years back which is my 'gamer'. They were 58cm with a shorter top tube and taller headtube for their size, they were nearly identical to my 56cm/Large Look which made a for a perfect fit for me. I'm a 'comfort' rider these days, no longer can I fit or wish to ride bikes with less than 150cm of headtube, my neck and back can't take it. I have not seen any issues with handling, I can ride them for days in supreme comfort. It really all depends on the geometry of the frame if you're going with a larger one. I did go with a no-offset post as that setup my knees proper-like, but if you need to based on your personal fit you could go with a very minimal offset post. The frame is sloping so there's plenty of seatpost exposed for compliance.
I have no choice in frame size generally as I’m 6’7”, but I feel good about my bike fit as my Cervelo R5 61cm frame fits me perfectly with the seat post extended to the max+2mm, which is ok as I’m only 82kg
I have been a serious recreational cyclist for the last 35 years. I always got a large frame until brands here in the US used cm sizing. I was told to get a 58cm frame as i am 6 feet tall. I always had the seat post very low on three bikes of this size. The next bike i got was 56cm that i traded in after 3 months of riding as reach was causing back pain and shop could not adjust it. Even at 6 feet, i have a longer torso than legs. Last year i went to a new shop where owner had triathlon experience and took some basic measurements. The M-L size from Giant was a perfect fit so i got my first carbon fiber bike. DO NOT LET HEIGHT BE YOUR ONLY MEASUREMENT IN PICKING FRAME SIZE !!
I'm 5 foot 6 with inseam of 29. Trek site says my heigh for a Domane SL5 should be a size 52 but inseam should be size 50. What size will be a more comfortable fit for me? Thank you.
As there's only one right position of your seat in relation to your pedals, then bike frame size mostly affects reach, which can't be adjusted without buying different sized stems. And then too long of a frame affects the accuracy/response of your steering. I generally like a 110 length stem and no longer. Having said that if it weren't for reach you could buy a huge frame and get rid of your seat post, simply glueing your seat to the top of the frame. (!!)
Do you usually size up or down? Let us know 👇
I'm 15 with a 56 frame but it fits really small!!
I go with folding bikes. They are pretty static for the most part. Same size with adjustable seat and handlebar height. My Bike Friday does have a fit and I think the frame I got is slightly too big for me after riding my winter bike all season. That makes me sad. I may keep riding it when I travel though. I feel safer on my old Swift.
I just get the frame size that has the right fit with a 140mm stem
I’m lucky to fit perfectly on a size 51 with a 110mm stem, which is just the way I like it.
@@Clashing0N put your cleats forward then, because there’s a big chance of toe overlap with a 140mm stem. Or run short crank arms.
the last bike I bought, the frame size choice was dictaded by availiability of bike at given small price
The reason why GCN viewers haven’t had their parts stolen is because most of them don’t ride for transport / errands.
Truth
I ride for errands, but typically haul my bike into the grocer, post office etc. Leaving a bike out of site invites theft where I live.
I have an ancient and unfashionable rustbucket for urban utility. Not only does nobody want to nick it, they wouldn't have the right size tools to strip it🤣 I mainly use the lock to stop anyone grabbing my handbag from the basket on the way past
@@jojoUK120 I think that just highlights more problems with our society.
Exactly
Winter 2019/20, while shopping for my new Specialist Tarmac, I was fitted to the 58cm, but I wanted to test the 61cm. It was night and day for me. The 61cm was so much better for me, I felt more comfortable and felt like I moved faster on the higher frame. I know you mention that you prefer smaller frames in this video, but when I see someone on the road, I always find the larger frame riders to catch my eye better.
"Fit before you buy" - Bikefitjames
what a ledge
yes. bikefitjames is a smart boi
I have always gone with Manon's view, "you can make a smaller bike bigger." Plus I've found that a slightly smaller bike is more responsive. I size down from a small to x-small.
What height are you ?
I have been riding a 56 for years, but after retiring and spending a lot more time on the bike, I found that I was uncomfortable in that size cockpit. I now ride a 58. Every LBS I enter makes a point of telling me that the bike is too big. The fact is, at 69 years old I can stretch out more comfortably on a 58 with a 120mm stem. 2000 miles later, I've had nothing but fun!
I swapped my 110mm bar stem for a 90mm one thanks to GCN How To videos. First trip out and descending at 35mph hoping I had the skill to handle the "twitchier" feel was completely overshadowed by me desperately hoping I had done a good enough job and the bars didn't come off in my hand.
Several months in and still attached!!
I swear to god, the topic of the week literally relates to something involving my bike / new bike every second week
I personally went smaller frame and always would, they just feel so much more nimble
An additional consideration: a smaller frame with the same fit geometry usually results in more exposed seatpost, which will create more compliance and a less harsh ride
For gravel, technical riding a larger frame will give more stability. On the road, a larger frame may allow for a more confortable aero position.
I've always followed the same mantra as Manon - you can make a smaller bike bigger. But sadly, I'm of the Conner mould and most of my bikes look silly anyway :(
Last year, I picked up the Specialized Allez Sport in size 56. I'm just shy of 6 ft at 165 - 175 lbs and sometimes i do feel that i could have gotten a 54.. but the 54 felt too small and kiddy-like as if I was on one of my shorter friend's bike. Maybe some custom larger components might have added to my comfort if i went that route but for my first road bike at 50-80 miles ridden/week, my 56 feels absolutely spot on without getting digital bike fitting.
“No, Conners bike looks great” as your voice raises 5 octaves. Love the playfulness of your channel 🙏🏼
And to answer your question, I have tried a size up and found it to be a bit uncomfortable when emergency stops presented themselves. I felt like I had a long way to go before I could get my feet planted. The size down gives me a safer feeling when coming to a sudden stop and the extra frame rigidity is nice to have when putting the power down and cornering.
Thanks guys!
Good video. I recently had this quandary. I purchased a 2023 Cannondale Topstone cabon3L. The manufacturer recommended a medium frame for me-6’ , 210# and a 32” inseam. It also started the I could use a medium, large or an extra large frame. I choose the extra large frame. I had to drop the handlebar to level with the floor, move the shifters and to cut the seat post. After much fine adjustments the bike is perfectly tuned. I wonder if the medium frame would have necessitated the same adjustments.
Manon should clearly be in charge of the Bike Vault.
Clearly.
15:06 The way Manon's face lit up when Snacks of the Week was announced.
I ride a slightly smaller bike for work (and fun) and I appreciate the smaller bike for quick dismount, the quick response
Manon is the sh*t! She is fantastic and she has chemistry with all the presenters, but she excels at tech. Best this to hit GCN since Matt left!
Stalker alert!
Re stem length: what’s one man’s “twitchy”, is another man’s “more responsive”.
Depending on the bike's geo (HT angle, fork rake...) that increased responsiveness may be welcome too. And different bar geos can chill it out again.
lol
Also upper body strength/etc. most riders can’t do more than a few pushups, for those of us who can do many, issues with handling like twitch or crosswind with deep section wheels are really kind of hard to comprehend
Size down! I’ve never had an XS anything in my life apart from my bike frame! 😜
Hahaha same :D
Cheeky...! Made me smile 😉
Manon looking at the snacks through glass - priceless!
If you haven't watched their epic ride they released a few days ago, you should. It is worth it just see Manon standing outside of a shop looking at treats through the window. She looked like a little kid with no money, standing outside of a chocolate shop. LOL!
I love snacks
YAY! Great to see Ollie and Manon working together! Always enjoy their viewpoints.
I was in the middle and went larger rather than smaller, but it worked for me. My natural cadence is quite low and I feel most comfortable pushing hard on the pedals, so bigger frame and longer cranks suits my riding style.
Sized up once, never ever again! Spent years making little adjustments here and there and it just never felt great on longer rides.
My first carbon bike that I built (cheap Chinese frame) was a 56cm, I went for this size because my old steel framed bike from back in the day was this size. When I decided to upgrade my bike I went into my local bike shop to try a smaller (54cm) frame as I had a feeling the 56cm was a bit too big for me. This was the best decision I made as the 54cm is way more comfortable for me.
How tall are you
@@brettwilliams5131 178cm
I'm buying a turbo creo and got online fit for a 54.9 inch tube which is actually exactly what the medium is. I'm a bit leggy for my size 32.75 inseam but it's a hard purchase cause I have to drive 8 hours to go see it, just letting u know what's going on in my life I'm sure u have problems of ur own 😀
It depends on your individual geometry.
Shorter legs with a longer torso, best would be smaller frame longer stem.
Shorter crank arms.
I’m exactly between two sizes of Canyons scale, things I take into consideration in addition to what was mentioned are: ape index (proportion between height and wingspan), inseam lenght and body flexibility in general
I love that! Ape index
I put my measurements into Canyon's online system. The numbers were crunched and it came back with 'We don't have a bike to fit you.' Oh to be average!
Are you a four legged alien maybe?
@@roebbiej Long back, short legs. Canyons loss....bought a Dolan.
@@SuperNeilB Dolan bikes are great, I have their cross bike. Very underated brand and based in Ormskirk, Lancashire.
@@ridethelakes I ride my GXT past their office at least twice a week :)
I tend to go for the large frame set: age brings me more upright, so a larger head tube is preferred
My first Canyon Endurace I bought was the XL, well my seat post was maxed out but Canyons measurement meter said I could fit a XL. Well, I sent the XL back, bought the 2XL, got a bike fit and I can’t be more happy, I also went from 175mm cranks to 170mm cranks.
Just got a real fit for the first time ! I’m 182 cm but my arms and legs are on the longer side for my height. The data came back with a 58 and 110 stem would be ideal, however a 56 would be the second sizing option for me. The issue with the 56 that were wasn’t much room to play with the stack at all. I would need all the spacers in all the time. I do suggest getting a detailed fit before any purchase. Gives you a much better insight on what your body actually needs versus what you think your body needs.
Ollie went full-on mickey mode when he said "Conner's bike looks great" lol
I thought he was doing Mr. Bill from Saturday night live. 😁
Hmmm... I thought it was the houseelf from the Harry Potter movies...
Does the fitting take into account forearm length. You maybe tall with short arms to reach forward less far. ??.
Back to square one. We are talking about is 5 contact points, saddle, pedals and shifters apex. We should keep same even in different sizes.
Which will affect the handling and outlook for sure. we should put safety caution in consideration. moreover, most of the time, stack will be bigger different instead of reach when in one size different.
For tech show Q&A. Question: I'd like to upgrade my SRAM Force AXS eTap to use the new 56/43T Red power meter kit with 10-36T Force cassette in the back. Will the D1 chain be long enough to do so? If not, what is the maximum big chainring size can be used? Anything else besides chain size should be considered? Thank you!
Ollie and Manon judging people while the Canyon on the wall is in the small chainring with a steered front wheel ☹️ Even for April's Fools day it's too much
There are hypocrites, damned hypocrites and the person on set responsible for setting the wall bike properly. That person FAILED and there should be consequences, like mismatched water bottles or having to wash Ollie’s hat.
Everytime I get ready to take a pic I say dam the chain and crank and never send the pics.......quiet rebel in me is gonna start
@@seansims8805 me too. There’s always something.
Filthy tires too
Might fail on the road!
Great video, I just figured in a fitting, that my frame (top tube) is too large and I need to sit more foreward... the question is, get a smaller frame or maybe try and trick first with a straight seat post...
"It's coming back now.
Oh, we're at the end now."
That's what she said!
The size of the shifters makes a big difference. Although I got an one size smaller frame. The shifters of Shimano 105 R7000 (on a CAAD 13) have are long. More than expected.
I just purchased a small and a medium Giant contend AR1 to see which one will fit the best. Bike fitters suck in Texas.
I'm addicted to this show. Always having fun.
Nice to have you back Manon. Alex is great and everything, but Mano is better looking. 😜. Keep up the great work GCN tech.
PS. Manon is a talented and entertaining presenter - that is a given.
I'm 182, and should fit 54/55/56 size frames very well, but found out early on in my "career", when I was around 11, that I had to change to the super short stems in order to not suffer from back pains when I ride. Now I'm 35 and still not very flexy and I have a 54 cm Fuji Sportif endurance bike with 55 mm stem, A 55 cm Koga Colmaro endurance bike with 50 mm stem and a 1998 54 cm Peugeot Competition 8000 race bike with a 60 mm stem, and my saddle are always very far forward on the rails with 15 mm offset on the seatpost. I know it must be sacrilegious to many, but that's what I have to do to ride road bikes without discomfort, and that really is the main thing. And it does make the steering very snappy, which I like it, especially for riding around town.
Going a size down i find makes it much easier to maneuver quickly, and so much more fun around corners.
True
In 1988 a fellow cyclist who was an engineer and maths whiz calculated that my 195cm body required a 68.5cm/27 inch frame. The largest frame in a store was 25 inch/63.5cm, so I paid extra for a custom frame.
Before I ordered I tested a friend’s custom 27” Reynolds 653 frame that had stays between the head tide and seat tube for stiffness.
The bike shop I chose had built a bike for a 7’2” basketballer, so they seemed a natural choice.
When my bike arrived it had no such stiffening and definitely not Reynolds tubing so it was more like a drift bike. (I should have bought a 25” from a proper brand for the price. Or anything from any other bike shop!)
I now have a 60cm Trek Domane and a 61cm Specialized Diverge.
The old frame is now my indoor bike, with my measurements transferred to it. No worries with standing watt bombs on the KICKR!
With 177cm, I ride 52cm frames (currently a '14 52 SuperSix Evo). I feel like they are more responsive and agile, I like the more compact position and of course, I think that long head tubes look terrible. Never mind my spacer...
I tried a 120mm stem and it felt like I was wrestling with the bike when I’m off the saddle. Harder to rock the bike side to side. I feel comfy with 100-110mm stems. Anything shorter feels unstable in long steep winding descents.
I love ❤️ the larger bike for a more stable ride!
I know how to size up a bike now: I take a tape measure and mediate from the centre of the bar to the top center of the seat and it should be no more than 58cm. The top of the seat for me is only 8-10cm above the top of the bar. That’s it find out your size and you do not need to worry too much anymore about frame size
Nice big frame for me with short seat post and short stem 😃
I'm 1,80m tall and no matter the brand/model, I almost always fall between sizes 54 and 56. Currently I own a '20 Cannondale Superix Evo and a '12 Caad 8, both 54 because I tought I would prefer a more responsible and quicker bike. I went to a bike fitter to adjust the Supersix and it was perfect along the first couple of months when I was a beginner, but since I've got more flexibility sometimes I feel like my torso doesn't fit "into" the reach anymore (I'm kind of long torso/short legs). I've put a 130mm - 10º stem (the original is 100mm -7º) on the bike and felt better, but now I think it might be a bit too long and I'm gonna put a 120mm -7º stem and see what happens. The Caad 8 has virtually the same fit, but the handlebar is lower and it got a 100mm - 7º. I would like to try a 56 frame because I think it would really suit me better.
In my case the choice is easy. I'm 1,96m, I always go for the highest frame available. My 2007 Cannondale CAAD5 is a 63, my Carver UNIQ N08 commuter is a 62. I'm also interested in the ROSE Backroad AL, which leaves me with a 65 option. The downside of that is that I'd have to wait around 6 months for it because it's not the most common of sizes...
In my experience too small frames cause some knee issues in me, no matter how high saddle or stem may be. The geometry just doesn't fit...
I am 1.91m but my legs are longer than typical proportions of a person my height. Currently have a 61cm bike as I need it for the seat height required, end up using a smaller stem to make the reach more comfortable
I'm the opposite, my arms are longer than typical. I use smaller frames with longer stems so I can reach far and low enough
I'm 178cm, Trek suggest 56cm but decided to go with 54cm for emonda.
I think you did the right thing, frame size calculators used by brands usually advise the larger one if two sizes might fit. Though that does work for some people, just as many people would prefer the smaller of the two
I’m 181 and Trek suggested 58, tried it, got a fitting, went for a 56 so yes, I agree.
@@Josegcabal-ix9op Wierd, I am 184 and trek dealer said 56, which is perfect.
@@peterlucas5634 trek website suggested 58 ( i might have long legs) and I went for a proper fitting to my local shop, 56 was much better...
I’m 180 went for a 56, really was in between sizes in my head and ended up sticking a shorter stem on for now as the geo is a little more racey than what I’m used to! No matter what I did a few cm here and there on treks calculator it had me on a 56. At 178 reckon the 54 be spot on with a longer stem for you. Also the seat mast on the 56 is the large one and I’ve got it nearly all the way down, I think anyone under 180 unless you have long ass legs should go for a 54 and ignore treks chart.
I just purchased a Argon 18 Krypton Pro that I'm still building out. I'm concerned that I may have bought a size too large. I used to ride a BMC 56" (their large), which I thought was perfect, but the fitting tool on Argon's site is now saying that I should have gotten a medium. My mistake for not doing more due diligence, but I'm gonna try to downsize it to make it work.
My first road bike was a 56. When it got wrecked my new bike is a 63. The weight distribution, comfort and power output are all so very much better.
What is your height?
Ronan's frame looks very much like Giant's TCR ( I have two), not their Trinity Tri frame. There is some front end mods that appear to be taped on?
Manon is the best! She needs to be in every video!!!
Garmin always allowed for a change of the pedal body. The plastic (?) interface with the cleat wore away allowing too much float. The only change now is that there are different bodies available. The strain gauges were always on the pedals spindle.
I'm 6' with a 34.5" inseam. My road bike is a 56cm and my gravel bike is a 58. On gravel I like the feel of the bigger frame and the more upright riding position.
Smaller bike sizes have deeper saddle to handle bar drops! For the relatively long-legged human this can be quite steep so in that scenario I would opt for sizing up!
I am 5ft 11 and ride a smaller bike because while I have long legs the length is in my upper leg. My torso is short in comparison. The deciding factor was the cranks. I like 170s. Every one pretty much used 170s a few decades ago with 165 for track
ollie: connor's bike looks great (high-pitch) lollllllll
I went from a 2015 54cm SuperSix with a slammed 90mm stem to a 2020 48cm with a 110mm stem. I would say i love the smaller frame but the wheelbase is actually longer on the 48cm, most of the other measurements are very similar.
What height are you there a huge difference?
Many current bikes are quite limiting on stem and bar options and often won't let you change them meaning more expense. I am often between sizes. If you are pushed to the smaller option then they usually come with very short stems so I can't get my ideal reach. If I go up a size to get the reach then the cranks are too long and the bars too wide. With intergrated bars customers often don't get the Pro options of narrower bars (38-40), with stems from 110 to 130.
Great video BUT... am responding to a comment by Manon who said you "can't make a bigger bike smaller" - well I have effectively made my bike smaller. I received a new Specialized Allez Elite (a few years) a result of a frame recall and was given a new 56cm frame but the bike's geometry was different to my original frame (also 56cm). So, changed the stem from 100mm to 90mm, changed the bars to a set of compact ones with a reach of only 8.5cm and replaced the existing seatpost for an inline option. The result, I now have a very good 'fit' on the bike and have, in effect made the frame smaller... Going forward, I'm likely to opt for a 54cm frame.
if your in the middle, it should come down to seat tube angle - if there's big difference in angle, it could really affect your legs/foot positioning. Also keep ing mind relationship between the stem length and front wheel angle
Not so sure about that one, if you can make a smaller bike bigger, how do you extend the height of a carbon stem? Serious question.
Shorter stem in climbing hills, the handling is more stiffer than the longer stem. I lost a lot of of energy on my upper body. But in a flat the difference is negligible. I prefer to use small size with longer stem because its lighter and load distribution is much better i think.
i wear out a stem every 6 months or so, am I at the wrong angle or am i using too much downward force?
I'm 5'8, with an inseam of 33 inches. I am literally right between medium and large. I can go either way, but prefer the smaller size for more control. As long as my knees aren't too close to the handlebars, I'm good😄
I run a 56 frame I'm 5.11ft with a short steam of 80cm because I'm like a t-rex. Really comfortable ride and steering is on point.
cant agree more about making a smaller frame fit someone bigger.
Long stem and layback seatpost, make it all work, but the center of balance goes out... the supposedly "long 56" frame I bought as a stop gap felt really front loaded and nervous in corners compared to my old 58... thankfully its now gone and replaced with another 58 that fits me even better than my original bike did (even post bike fit)!
I'm relatively new to cycling. an bought a 54cm size frame . . . but i'm 5ft8' an realised i shoulda bought a 52cm frame. but saying that all is good but i do get few aches an pains now an again.
Welcome to the community!
Exactly. Manufacturers confuse consumers by recommending them a size (sometimes two) larger frames than they should. I cannot fathom why they do that - yet almost everyone among them does so.
5'11'' and ride a 52cm colnago. I understand they ride a little larger than the frame suggests but the 52 is maybe 4cm shorter then what would normally be the rec'd size. One thing that never gets considered it seems is where you ride though. In and around a major city you are constantly checking intersections at slower speed, braking at signs and lights, and cornering at 90 degrees more often than not. This leads to more stopping and starting where a smaller frame is exactly what you'd want. What's the tradeoff then? A 54 or even 56 cm frame would allow an easier time getting a better areo tuck and would generally help get into a leaner more areo position when on the hoods. For a race bike I'd opt for 54cm and for bikepacking and gravel rides a 56 would be nice to spend all day on but for everyday punchy city riding the 52 is a glove.
I did get a 54 Cervelo P3 while I have a Riddly 56... indeed there are options to make the Cervélo much more comfortable, but they are expensive.
Bike size I was lucky. They had the same model in both large and X-large. For me I sized up. The larger frame felt a lot more stable at speed than the smaller bike. Also since my bike is an "all-road" geometry the smaller frame had me sitting upright just a tad more than I liked. I think it's very bike dependent but I'm definitely more big frame small stem of I can pull it off.
I totally agree, smaller is better!! You cannot make the triangle smaller if you already have a big bike. Just to mention, I did have issues with the toe overlap, but that was only in few occasions, so I stick to the smaller sizes even for next bikes.
i had to create my own Excel Spreadsheet to calculate the desired results. the Stack, Reach, seat tube angle, and head tube angle helped me tremendously. i factored in stem length, stem angle, amount of spacers since i wanted a slam look (minimal spacers) and didn't want to deviate from my existing road bike setup. I found that so many road bikes are drastically different despite the sizing being similar. I highly recommend test riding all bikes in your size to get a feeling for how each handle.
i sized my bike to be tad smaller then recommended in order to be flexible with various stems, but then i got an integrated stem/bar system... oh well. it works. i fit and i love it.
THIS IS MY QUESTION ALL DAY LONG!!
THANK YOU!
Our pleasure!
I've rode larger frame for 5 years - super steady, kinda comfortable. Riding 2 years with smaller frame, super agile. Kinda harder to descend on higher speeds, but much easyer to commute in chaotic cities. 'Cause of more aggressive stearing speed, need a bit more endurance for long rides
I've fit on a range of bikes. My first was a 57. Always felt that was the best fit for me and it remains my favorite bike I've had. I then got a 56 and loved it. Had to replace the frame and got a professional fit, which put me on a couple 58s. Never liked them. I even raced on them. They were ok, but the front end felt a little high, head tube too big, stem too short and handled a little like a cadillac. For my most recent bike project, I bought the same manufacturer as my original 57, which now only comes in 4 sizes. Got the L, which was identical in geometry to the 57 I had but 1cm shorter. Did all the measurements, specced the components, rode it a few times and it is perfection. The frame is curiously labeled L (55), so I definitely went smaller. My philosophy? Go smaller. However note two things: one, you will likely have more drop or more spacers; two, don't fail to get a professional fit especially if it is your first bike or you have some issues. I had the advantage of knowing the geometry of my original bike that I wanted to match.
At 5'10" I tend to sit between M & L frames but always opt for an M frame and longer stem
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE give Bike Vault the respect it deserves!!! My favourite part of the show and yet it seems to be getting shorter and shorter each week. I mean, how is any newbie supposed to know what the rules are when you flash the pic up, say yes, and tinkle (and i do mean tinkle, i mean, put your back into it) the bell. That and when the bike's nicely presented, it's nice to have more than 3secs to appreciate it and wish you had one just like it. I'll expect this complaint to be addressed in the next show! :)
hi, is it okay to buy/use a road bike 2cm below the recommended size for my height? 2cm is quite big size difference I think. I really like the bike and it's the only one left in that design and category and price range, I'm just not sure if 2cm below size will be too small for me.
Thanx!!!
Blessed be
I'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam and purchased a 61cm over a 58cm without really getting fitted. I have the bike now and feel comfortable but do think now I probably should of sized down. When I stand over bike I have really no space, basically on top of bar. Thankfully it slopes downward where it's not so bad. I originally had a 120 stem but sized down to 110 and its better. Now I'm thinking maybe go for a 100 stem and see how that feels. I don't agree that smaller bikes look better. I think they look funny with the high seat, just my opinion.
I'm 6'2" with a 38 inch inseam. I always have the problem of smaller frames not having a long enough seatpost for my legs, and bigger frames being too long even with a shorter stem.
Jammy sods , you find yourself between 2 sizes ! Me size req XXL either not in stock or available in range , on the rare occasion it is available its out of my price range
170cm/ 5'7, always between sizes
I dont think bikes are easily adjustable, 10+ years ago yes, but not now. With aero seatposts, integrated and one piece cockpits, it makes it really difficult and quite expensive. Best thing you can do is get fitted before buying a new bike.
For sure, seeing a good bike fitter is a really worthwhile thing to do
Mike Burrows work is being undone
Over my weeks & months of watching the GCN Tech show I've noticed that Ollie's signature move os the thumbs up just like Cliff Richard
I'm fitted for a 55-56cm depending on manufacturer, at 5'10" I have shorter arms/torso and longer legs, hard to fit standard sizes for my height....but came across some OG Serotta Fierte's, first a steel and then I found a Titanium version a few years back which is my 'gamer'. They were 58cm with a shorter top tube and taller headtube for their size, they were nearly identical to my 56cm/Large Look which made a for a perfect fit for me. I'm a 'comfort' rider these days, no longer can I fit or wish to ride bikes with less than 150cm of headtube, my neck and back can't take it. I have not seen any issues with handling, I can ride them for days in supreme comfort. It really all depends on the geometry of the frame if you're going with a larger one. I did go with a no-offset post as that setup my knees proper-like, but if you need to based on your personal fit you could go with a very minimal offset post. The frame is sloping so there's plenty of seatpost exposed for compliance.
I have no choice in frame size generally as I’m 6’7”, but I feel good about my bike fit as my Cervelo R5 61cm frame fits me perfectly with the seat post extended to the max+2mm, which is ok as I’m only 82kg
Rather pick a smaller frame just for a wide range of fitting , i'm 175cm tall with a 48cm (ST) frame
I go for the large frame bike all in all it shows structure of the rider and a bike
I have been a serious recreational cyclist for the last 35 years. I always got a large frame until brands here in the US used cm sizing. I was told to get a 58cm frame as i am 6 feet tall. I always had the seat post very low on three bikes of this size. The next bike i got was 56cm that i traded in after 3 months of riding as reach was causing back pain and shop could not adjust it. Even at 6 feet, i have a longer torso than legs. Last year i went to a new shop where owner had triathlon experience and took some basic measurements. The M-L size from Giant was a perfect fit so i got my first carbon fiber bike. DO NOT LET HEIGHT BE YOUR ONLY MEASUREMENT IN PICKING FRAME SIZE !!
I'm 5 foot 6 with inseam of 29. Trek site says my heigh for a Domane SL5 should be a size 52 but inseam should be size 50. What size will be a more comfortable fit for me? Thank you.
Ring that bell for the steel & aluminum bicycles! They have way more charm than those carbon frame bikes, just like the charm of classic cars.
As there's only one right position of your seat in relation to your pedals, then bike frame size mostly affects reach, which can't be adjusted without buying different sized stems. And then too long of a frame affects the accuracy/response of your steering. I generally like a 110 length stem and no longer. Having said that if it weren't for reach you could buy a huge frame and get rid of your seat post, simply glueing your seat to the top of the frame. (!!)