It's interesting to see what the hard-core bikers want. As a plodder, I'm looking more for durability, maintainability, and rational cost. I totally agree on the frame: find one that you like, then you can (typically) switch components as you wish.
80% of people who get into cycling actually want the same thing its just that theyve been gaslit into thinking they gotta buy expensive ass lightweight components otherwise its trash and not a real bike
I agree. I slowly upgraded my bikes over a few years and I realized what I actually need. I then hemorrhaged money in a Ti frame and lesser components with the thought being that the frame is permanent, everything else is replaceable and can be upgraded in time if I feel like it.
I dont know what a hardcore biker is (hells angel or a mongol?). Nor what a plodder is (a thing that puts dots on a graph?) But Im in the market for a frame from Time if I can get it. Im going to cheap out on components, except the drivetrain (either grx 825 di2 or 105 di2). My 1st upgrade will be an ergon carbon all road seatpost, I might even try to budget it in the build and scrape the floor on initial wheels with a set of cheesy formula wheels. A wheel upgrade is high on the list and the 1st thing I'll be saving for. Im loving the zipp 303 xplr sw aero gravel wheels, the ones with the golf ball like dimples (lifetime warrany). I prefer enve's lifetime incident protection and hope they make an aero gravel set before i make a purchase. Im probably 6 months to a year away from wheels. Shoes and crap im good with. I would be considering a nice seat vs aero bars as my next upgrade. Tires im undecided, but decidedly a pirelli fan. I might try a set even if they are slow and heavy with extra resistance (fan boy status)! Ignorance is bliss.😅 Im hoping the frame lasts 20 years, but who knows. I do know Time has the best carbon lay up and build process. Beyond any other bike brand. Their carbon work is so perfect its sexy. They weave their own carbon from individual fibers into tube shapes, including dyneema fibers for increased compliance where desired, not prepreg carbon sheets like most brands use. They use wax molds to pull the carbon fiber tubes over like a sock rather than weird air bladders which is common in the industry. They then pull the resin into the carbon under vacuum pressure, filling all the voids with epoxy resin in a monolithic nature, rather than pre impregnated sheets that often develop micro cracking and delamination over time. Time bikes are built the way NASA would build a carbon bike and made to stand the test of time. They arent the lightest bikes, but they are built to last, stiff as a race bike, and people say they have magical levels of compliance for how stiff they are. Removing the harshness of the road. Im not certain if im a fan of time bikes, ive never touched one yet. But my inner engineer squeals in delight seeing both their process and seeing mechanics, fitters, and industry insiders dote over their quality. My best description is watching a 60 year old man describe this as a bike made to be comfortable all day long. 200k? You got it. Will i ever, doubt it! Will my broken back be happy? Yes.
Also has the added bonus of forcing the user to learn how to carry out essential maintenance (bottom bracket, bearings, cable hoses and freehubs e.t.c), all invaluable skills for cyclists at any level
I've been a cyclist for most of my life, but only just go into road cycling from urban track bikes, and the one thing that has struck me is how you don't even need $1500 USD for a good entry level bike. My Spesh Allez base was $999 and it was an absolute steal, I cannot believe how good it is, everybody thinks I paid $$$$ for it too.
I looked @ the allez. But want to fit wider tires. So close, yet so far away... The Roubaix fits the 40mm i want, but its no where near the allez in price. Exact same geometry otherwise though and has the futureshock. The Roubaix is my backup option right now. Im trying to gun for a time frame though. Its like NASA vs nascar...
Reluctantly, I have to agree about electronic shifting. I bought a canyon, with 10 speed ultegra Di2 in 2012. I love it and it's still superb, but the prices today would send me towards 105.
I got a handme down bike from my dad who was a road racer cause of a leg injury, now he gave me some money to spend on bike parts and this video really helped me a lot what to buy first
Great video CW. One small digression on bike fit. I had mine (cameras and lazers) at Sigma Sport, who discovered I'd been riding for years with my left sit bone of the saddle! My occasional knee pain disappeared also afterwards and my comfort and performance levels soared. A comprehensive bike fit is a medical necessity for many serious roadies, I would suggest, but I do agree not essential for all of us. Thanks guys!
I had a pro bike fit recently and it was a game changer, i’d certainly recommend a bike for first before upgrading anything, stem length, bar width, seat, pedals etc Great vid though
"Drove into a car park barrier and cracked your seatpost? Ah, well, that'll be a new frame!" [driving into barriers not advised for car, seatpost/handlebar or frame health]
@@fredericom2650 Trek is horrible with this stuff too. Worse in my experience. Seatposts, BBs, stems and headsets, and even making their own different rear wheel spacing on some of their mountain bikes with very limited hub options, and who knows how long they'll continue supporting this stuff(probably not long, as they like to change things every other year) and how much they'll charge for them(probably more and more). Ugh.
I upgraded my stock wheels for aluminum DT Swiss. The difference is amazing. I'll go carbon, maybe, later as I think it's expensive and unnecessary for none competitive riders. Plus, the major risk of breaking the wheels thanks to pot holes or sketchy road conditions.
Carbons rims have more flexibility then Alu rims, once the alu is dented it’s dented, carbon has more flex this why people use them in cyclocross races. The chance of the carbon rim flexing a returning to its original form.
Enjoyed that. Spot on about the bike fit, everyone seems to be doing it these days and charging silly money. The best fitters go by eye and ultimately by communicating with their clients Shout out to Vankru; they know their stuff.
Don't overspend on your first bike. You likely don't know what you really prefer and what suits you best. Try a cheaper one, experiment with different frames, sizes and handle bars, before you commit to buying a bike for 5000 bucks.
Who drops 5k on their 1st bike? Im getting ready to drop 5k, but im 40. Ive ridden tons of bikes and know i want a drop bar bike with endurance based geometry, capable of fitting 45mm tires. Leading me to a gravel bike. But I dont want a long wheelbase gravel bike, I want closer to road geometry, with just enough stretch to make me feel in control on a decent. I also want something of high build quality, stiff, yet compliant. Leading me to Time cycles for my frame. The other brand im digging is look. If i cant wind up with either of those theres the Specialized Roubaix, but i would be sacrificing with tire clearance. I would gain some nimbleness, and lose some downhill control, but ultimately be okay. Everyones 1st bike in my opinion should be purchased for you by your parents. And be highly budgeted. My 1st bike was a 4 speed bike from a toy store called toys r us. My 2nd was a GT mach one, my 3rd was a schwinn cruiser. As a young adult i had a couple vintage schwinn road bikes i loved. One i flipped the road bars around to give the bike ram horns! Loved that thing. I dont think it would work with todays road shifters, but maybe with a mtb setup? I used the reverse drops for a more upright position, the flats were my drops. Ive taken a long time off cycling. My relationship with cycling was rekindled with a full suspension bike i was given 2 years ago. A 2014 Trek remedy 7 29er. I love the bike, but my soul is a road biker. Ive been looking into things the whole 2 years ive had the bike. I did break my back 1 year ago which put a damper on things, but now im back riding and looking to get back where i was. Im glad ive waited as bikes have changed. Road bikes are going 40mm, gravel is getting a bit big for its britches, and im looking to capitalize. Ive test ridden some geometries, know i dont want a race bike, and am settled into a bike design im sure will leave me comfortable for years to come. Edit: sorry i lied. My 1st bike was a bigwheel tricycle for very young kids. It has full plastic wheels and cranks on the front wheel like a penny farthing! I used to love doing sick burnies on that thing as a young kid. I also had a bike i barely remember. I know it came with training wheels, it was blue, and most of my memories of it involve taking the training wheels off. Also riding it dow the hill @ the end of my street. By hill i mean like 4 feet of elevation!😅 seems bigger when your 2 feet tall!
Agree with most of these points. A professional bike fit is not the same as some kid at the local shop with a chart and a tape measure. Most bike fit issues are the result of poor recommendations by inexperienced bike sales people. Ask any professional bike fitter and they will tell you at least 50% of people are sold a frame 1 size too big. I see it out on the road every day. Every bike shop i have asked to size me, says i'm a 56cm based on my height. I'm a 53cm as confirmed by the best bike fitter in the business. If you are doing high mileage and/or have comfort or pain issues a proper bike fit is the best value upgrade .
I have found the cheapest and easiest way to lose weight from a bicycle is to lose the weight from the engine aka me. I could spend thousands of dollars to make a bike 10lbs lighter and it still wouldn't improve my performance like losing those 10lbs from my body.
I decided to chuck the whole mindset of trying to be fast and went for comfort instead. Got a two-wheeled recumbent with under-the-seat steering and get all the exercise I need painlessly. Biking is fun again.
I only spend a lot of money on the frame, wheels, electronic components, handlebar, saddle, clothes, helmet, shoes and GPS. So my S-Works Venge has cheap pedals I guess? Plus I have another bike for the week-ends!
Love videos like this! Thank you, Michelle. It can be tricky to identify what defines an "upgrade". Performance, utility or comfort related, or flashy name brand aesthetics - upgrades can be different for each rider. Yes, a $2500 stock bike is the perfect starting point. Performance upgrades will likely look different for a more expensive bike. Biggest performance related bang for the buck - by a huge margin - are tires. I have multiple sets of tires for different rides and surfaces. But I do get tired of changing tires....so I can see myself eventually 'upgrading' to a new wheelset to make this swap easier. One wheelset and tires for road and another for gravel.
Excellent presentation. Absolutely loved the '£2.99 bottle holder will do' comment! I'm no youngster, so comfort is my priority. I'm looking to replace 25 with 28 or even 32mm tires to improve comfort on our dreadful UK road surfaces.
I’ve crashed probably 100 times in my life. I’ve never bent a rear derailleur. I’ve smashed them up and scratched them badly but never bent one beyond very minor repairs. I’ve snapped and bent many derailleur hangers. That’s a separate replaceable part made of soft aluminum for the purpose of saving frame and derailleur. It can be readjusted from full deflection (bent so derailleur touches spokes) seven times on average before it snaps. A new one is $20. Biggest threat for a typical rider is derailleur into spokes, which is largely prevented by the electronic perimeter limits on electronic shifters.
I have had a Di2 rear derailleur simply fail, it doesn't always require an accident. Luckily it was still within warranty but if it hadn't been I think I would not have stayed with the Di2 system. Don't get me wrong, it's lovely when it's working perfectly, gear changes are buttery smooth, but then gear changes are pretty damn good on a properly set up XTR system. Di2 was on the bike when I bought it and I enjoy having it but I wouldn't go to the expense of buying it if it wasn't already on the bike or if, for example, I was building a new bike. Falls in the marginal gains category for me and it's expensive.
That is alot of crashing. Have you considered upgrading your handling skills/ judgement? Cycling six decades cannot remember more than a dozen ...probably a few more but my crashing days were over a couple years ago . When I slipped of a curb in winter. Yeah on foot. Rebuilt pelvis and total hip replacement . I think the short crank length trend is in my future 175s are painful on my road bike and 170s on my recumbent are still a bit painful after a couple days. So my next upgrade is shorter crank length.
@@stevengagnon4777 I'm in my 6th decade of riding if I start counting from age 5 when I first rode a bike. I had my first derailleur bike at age 12. Three decades of racing which guaranteed result in the occasional crash if you're actually racing. Pretty sure I don't need to upgrade my skills. You can't account for things like hitting a rock while in a tight race pack, or coming around a poorly lit corner in a nighttime crit and somebody mysteriously put a traffic cone there on a course that was clear during the warm up laps. Such things do not happen if you just ride normally. The majority of my race crashes were because others around or in front of me crashed, and took me down with them. Or the time I'm leading a small group at high speed and riding along a hedge, and suddenly a gazelle flies across the road and run straight into my front wheel. It took maybe half a second from visual contact, until physical contact with the goat. Maybe I'm unlucky, but not riding skills related. Also, I grew up in Sweden, so I probably had 20 crashes a year when I was young due to riding on snow and ice training in off season. I counted those in the 100 because it was on a derailleur bike most of the time. I've broken a few things, but luckily all crashes except two resulted in just road rash, bruises, or just a bruised ego (like that time when I touched a curb in a sprint and came off into the sand filling ears, eyes, hair, mouth, nose, etc etc with fine sand). Sorry about your hip. I'm going through ACJ surgery recover as we speak. Cycling crash. Incidentally the first and only one in probably ten years, and at a speed of 3-5kph. Walking speed.
@@bossthefluff Hope your recovery goes well. Sorry about the comment too it was snarky . I did break a few bones along the way and I will admit judgment was the main factor. Like sprinting staight through a wheel chair ramp in the dark only to discover it was a curb. Was real fortunate to get my right shoulder to hit the sidewalk first ...my head hit hard next....cycling while being miffed is a bad combination. Yeah I really didn't add all the times when I went down in the winter...you are right that was frequent event in those icy rutts. That became far less frequent when I started using studded snow tires in the winter. I would leave those on my cyclocross/commuter until till we got a a good heavy down poor in spring to wash the sand that was pored on them during the winter. Thst first ride with the tubulars on was amazing. Didn't race though so that it cuts down . Did have one of my bikes snap into two pieces once ...bang and suddenly it wasn't really a bike anymore right in one of the busiest intersections at rush hour. The faces on the drivers at the stop 🚦 was priceless when I scooped up the two halves of bike ....judgment again. That was the bike I endo on that curb and should have scrapped. Didn't find anything wrong at the time other than the heart shaped 🥨 front wheel will the Russian training tubular still intact. It did take a half decade of riding before it snapped. Anyway have a great day. Good reply. Still thinking about that gazelle. That had to hurt. I've had a couple of encounter s with deer 🦌 in the night fortunately no contact. But had a small heard of deer surrounding me and all going in the same direction one night ... it was surreal having them in reaching distance like that...I think they liked me. Also had a 🦌 leap across the road right in front out of the woods like that one night 20 feet ⁷ away that was too close I was full tilt down a hill and he was full tilt crossing in front of me. He made it completely across in one leap...almost i heard one set of heals kicking the pavement directly to my left...an amazing sight so close up. He was a bigger boy than me ( and a matching rack to prove it) and no time to react in the dark and having no lights other than the moon .
@@stevengagnon4777 Sounds like we could spend a whole campfire weekend together and never run out of crash lore, and it sounds like we probably have several stories with similatrities. The gazelle was medium painful.I think we were just around 45kph so not super fast, but enough to hurt. I hit my head pretty hard, and got a concussion, but other than a trashed helmet and a punctured top tube on my Dogma there wasn't any damage. Luckily carbon frames are pretty straightforward to repair, so it wasn't a write-off. I was on a 500 days of consecutive riding streak, maybe 150 days in, so I had to get back up and ride the next day. Most certainly not at speed, or in a bunch. A bit wobbly, but I got a ride in at least. But I admit, a few crashes were simply horribly poor judgement. I was on a work assignment in Melbourne, AU and had a snapped chain on an early evening ride. It got dark, and it was cold, and I had no lights and only enough cash to buy a new chain. So, instead of using the cash for a cab, I rode along the poorly lit beach walk (at about 30kph to keep warm). Somebody built a small kink in the path and built a 70cm tall brick wall across. I rode straight into it at speed. I saw it milliseconds before impact. Somersaulted and landed on my butt in sitting position. Not a scratch. Not even a bruise. But my bike steel bike was folded in two. Funny enough the front wheel held true, but the down tube buckled.
Excellent advice. The only point I personally find controversial is re the pedals: my experience with different brands / systems (I am not stating here my choice as it is irrelevant and I am not any reference) says that one should not disregard this matter: power transfer, smoothness, easiness of clip / unclip and even walkability means there is here a wide range of variables which I find it is a good place to spend rather then to save money on. In case you haven't published something similar it would be interesting to have a video about the accessories: lights, hydration systems, tools, safety gear... and so on. Congratulations for the superb presentation and to whoever has edited the video
Yep, last year I bought my first road bike- Bianchi Oltre XR3 Disc and less than a year I am replacing the bike with Factor Ostro Vam. The point is, if you can afford the best your budget permits, don't skimp it would be more expensive in the long run. And definitely invest in a professional bike fit!
Indeed it is. All these cycling channels seem to be made up of ex-professional competitive cyclists and aimed at other competitive and wannabe-competitive cyclists. The vast majority of bicycle users are pretty much invisible to these channels.
What bike are you riding? Interested in upgrading to carbon wheels but don’t know if it’s worth doing on a £700 hybrid bike 🤷♂️ I work as a delivery rider so anything that makes hours of cycling more comfortable and fun is welcomed…
Where to spend addition? I'd add power meter. Will it make your bike lighter or more aero? No. Will it enable you to go faster? Yes. Being able to train better by having power data will make you stronger and fitter and enable faster speeds.... It doesn't have to be a dual sided, wizy wazy, one either. More budget options are not too costly now and would do the job.
Why would you update shifters? Unless you bought an ancient bike or its broken upgrading shifters is way too expensive for little practical difference.
@@truthseeker8483 fair enough, it makes plenty of sense if you're upgrading something like 7-speed RSX brifters to something more modern. it'll cost ya though.
@@biking-places I had downtube shifters and 7 speeds...now I have the downtube shifter mounted on the handlebar near my hand and still have 7 speeds but it made a BIG difference.😃
Nice, straight shooting. Thanks for a good look at where not to spend and providing some pretty inexpensive upgrades. I still struggle with carbon wheels. I use Hunt alloys on my gravel bike and can afford a 700c and 650b set for the same price as their “ low cost” carbon wheels. My mountain bike has carbon everywhere, except the wheel set. Hate the thought of tagging a sharp rock on new carbon wheels!
When deciding where to cut weight I look at moving parts first, then stationary parts. Gram for gram moving parts cost more in energy needed to move them. Ride thru a puddle and collect even a slight coating of mud on the tire and one will fee a noticeable deference in the effort needed to move the bike compared to the same amount of mud on your frame. Pedals are moving parts and connect the energy source to the drive train, buy the optimal in weight and friction that your budget will allow.
Pleasantly surprised to hear about upgrades related to longevity as well. A frame that suits you is the best investment you can make. Never had one faced, but I’m curious how much it would affect things.
Speaking as a bike mechanic, I wouldn't think it would affect things much. Any decent mechanic is going to make sure things are set properly when they build up the bike. If things aren't right, they'll pull out the tool to sort it out. A mechanic that isn't decent might not do a great job putting the bike together even if you pay them to face the appropriate points.
Completely agree about electronic shifting. For me, biking is all about the mechanical experience. Yes, I charge my phone and bike computer, but I can still ride without those. You can't ride if you forget to charge your electronic shifting. Well, you can but not well
The batteries last months and you are warned well in advance if the need charging. Should you however ignore the low battery warning, say on your rear mech, you can swap with the fd battery and still ride comfortably home
@@ricksvic6062 if you have a front mech, for one. But also, it seems people run out quite a bit for some reason, even though they're warned. A cable is far cheaper and can last years. Plus I don't have to worry about the cable being a different shape when I need to eventually replace it. It takes far less time to adjust a barrel adjuster than it does to charge a battery and while you may not consider charging to be maintenance, consider the fact that you can't ride without it unless you drop $60 for a spare battery.
@@RedWingsninetyone I have read your comment several times and are struggling to understand your point... cables stretch, get dirty, fray, corrode, all this leads to shifting latency. Digital is instant, accurate and on an axs system ultra precise. I'm sorry but electronic shifting is superior. Its not cheaper, but it is superior
@@ricksvic6062 they stretch, and that's taken care of by a quarter of a turn of a barrel adjuster every now and again, and not even often. Dirt and corrosion is rarely an issue, especially if you perform regular maintenance on your bike. Same with fraying. I had a cable on my old bike for 6 years before having it replaced. And I replaced it not because it absolutely needed it, but because it was already in the shop and going to cost about $5 to have them do it. Sorry, but no.
Brilliant video and really well presented. I was only searching for upgrade videos the other week. I have a 2010 Cannondale Synapse Hi Mod Ultegra. A brilliant endurance bike which still looks new. But I want to upgrade where possible and keep what I believe is a great frame. Wheels and tyres (currently original stock wheels and 4Seasons tyres) definitely a good place to start. Thanks
Carbon frames, if they haven't been in an accident and have been well cared for, will last a very long time. You will notice a big difference with a wheel upgrade. A nice set of Hunt's or Enve's with tubeless continental GP 5000 will be like you got a whole new bike. Hopefully your frame and brake setup will let you go with at least 25 tyres....if you welcome comfort, go for 28's if they'll fit.
In general this is good advice, well presented. The carbon wheels have benefits in more responsiveness, but the aero is exaggerated. Almost nobody rides at 30 mph! If you hit 30 mph on your ride, for 98% of us it's for a very short time. Since air drag is proportional to the square of air speed, the aero benefit of deep section wheels at 20 mph (even that as an average speed is an aspiration to many of us) is less than half the aero gain at 30 mph. I own carbon wheels and love them...and if you love cycling and can afford it, do what you like. Most of us ride for fun and if an item makes you happy, and you can be responsible spending the money, go for it! I'd add the following: I have bought less costly bib shorts online that have been just as good as some that cost 5x as much as the name brands in the stores. Even if you get a bad pair, the price difference is so great that you can throw them away. I have bought used bikes before and saved a ton of money. There is some risk, of course, but you can also get a bad frame buying new. If you are buying a new bike, buy it pretty close to how you really want it, because the manufacturer is buying components for a fraction of what you and I can buy them for one at a time. Do not buy a bike that's the wrong size, you will hate it. Bike computers: you can get almost all the functionality anyone needs using a $50 bike computer and a phone in your pocket. Bike lights: there are some pretty good lights for under $50. Bike accessories go on sale. Checking out your local shop or online stores will uncover name-brand helmets and shoes that are marked down if you're patient and persistent and not overly fussy about color or style.
The cheapest way to have a flagship bike? Get the lowest base model of the best frameset, ride that build into the ground, then upgrade. The result will end up being $1000 less than the manufacturer's OEM offering when done and it will be a totally custom fit (cockpit, wheelset, etc...) and most definitely lighter.
This is a solid advise if there wasn’t a global pandemic bike component shortage. By the time you’ve worn out your drivetrain. You’ll be talking advantage of trickle down technology at a lower price. But I don’t see supply availability of groupset or prices going down in the next 2 to 3 years. It can only get more expensive since current demand is so high.
@@iMadrid11 Thanks. A 105 equipped bike straight out of the LBS will last someone eons. If they wear out that groupset, then they're serious riders and deserve something like Dura-Ace or Ultegra. Or, they can continue with 105 which is more group than most mortals need.
I just ordered some latex tubes and a new set of Conti GP5000s...interested to see how the bike behaves compared to existing butyl and old Conti GT tyres...let’s see!
@@_Just_Some1 Well, I didn’t see my Strava PBs tumble! The ride did feel good, but difficult to say how much was due to new tyres v tubes. Perhaps I should have changed tubes only. I’m now in the process of upgrading to carbon wheels and I’ve opted for butyl tubes so I guess that says something.
@@atulmavinkurve4392 because she is hot and therefore probably not heavy cyclist which means the advice was made by someone else. Or she is just getting to cycling more after a pause that led her to gaining weight and becoming hot on the process... This does not mean that if she was thinner because of training that she would not be hot. Again that is a body of someone that has the experience to give that kind of advice... Maybe I'm wrong...
Where to spend: In the sales! Where to save: In the sales! Wait until the new stuff's out, and then buy the previous seasons. It's usually just the same tech.
Your advice are great for pro and semi pro cycles/sport cycling. I am a commuter and I been bicycle for many years and never recommend or seek costum frames or super seats. I don't know if this is a youtuber problem recommending your video and others like it or maybe it is a good idea to title you video for the type of cycling you do. I am glad you are cycling and I hope your videos are helpful for someone.
Honestly do your research and compare/check bicycles that have a fair good mix of drivetrain components after you have sort of decided the frame you have in mind. Tyres, saddle, pedals and handlebars are the more likely others you may want to invest/replace later on.
Road tubeless is an upgrade you should consider, but ONLY if you NEED to buy new wheels or when buying a new bike. I have been road tubless for a decade. The last 3 years have sucked a lot less as tubeless has gotten a lot better. Great ride. I went 26,000 miles before getting a flat, and that was a side wall cut.
If you want to ride a fair bit (more than 100k a week) finding the right bike for you is a minefield. Think I got it right 15 years ago by fluke, but the frame has cracked now. Not sure that 300+ pound shoes are faster than 70 pound shoes. Especially white dhb lace ups. I usually like to upgrade the bar to one with a flatter top, ideally carbon for comfort. Tyres definitely.
Great vid, no-nonsense advice. Although I think the point about bike fit could be miscontrued... I'd say it's absolutely worth getting a bike fit in the first place (even if not a super techy one). By far the biggest improvement made to my avg speed came immediately following a bike fit. And I'm not talking half a km/h either, it was much much more noticeable. Much cheaper than trying to shed 50g here and there too :). Wheels definitely the next best bang for buck.
I changed from some giant sr somethings to campagnolo Zonda wheels and they've been fantastic, feel extremely free, I'm sure there are faster wheels out there but I have no complaints! I ride a "tange Prestige" steel frame with a modern Ultegra groupset, and it goes as fast as I could want, but I wish I could find more modern components that fit my frame dimensions in areas like seat post, handlebars, and my WAHOO roam holder!
You can get great deals on the used market, if you want a carbon frame to build your bike around you frequently find them for less than $300, and that's including fork and seat tube. You want to save more money look for rim brakes and mechanical shifters, lots of people ditching those in favor of di2 and disc brakes. If you don't mind scouring for deals you can get $3000 value for less than a grand.
@@rbruce63 It depends a lot of what you plan to do or how much you want to invest. My first advice is to buys tools from TOP brands like Topeak, Park Tools or Lezynne. My favourite recommended items: - Topeak Tool Ratchet Rocket Lite NTX - LEZYNE Minipumpe CNC Pocket Drive - Topeak PrepBox Tool Case
I'm very careful and conservative with my own upgrades, but I agree the best bike is the one you use and some people are simply motivated to ride more by getting new and flashy gear. If it makes them happy riders all I say is: "Go for it!". I cringe when I hear people criticize a "slow" or "newbie" rider buying a 15K bike. If that's what it takes to make them ride its worth every penny invested.
Electronic shifting: get the point on replacement components. But you do use an extreme example. The ultegra replacement cost me 178 euro, which I probably saved because of less wear of my cassette, chain and do not forget the replacement of the cables every year if you want to have smooth shifting. That was after 4 years after someone crashed into it. That is 44 euro per year. Electronic performance is so much better the mechanical also under load. I do about 12k/year with electronic. I did notice a drop in wear of chain and cassette when going electronic.
You see so many out on a £5000 bike, in all weather's. I have 6 bikes ranging from a Dolan fixed with mudguards, for winter, to a Flandria summer bike. Took a few years to get them all , but it gives me more riding options for weather conditions & sort of ride I'm doing.
Super interesting , except that I'll point out that all of this is geared towards a pro rider, or at least, a semi-pro. With the prices as they are these days (and I feel cycling is gathering an amount of show-offs, or dandies), it is becoming quickly unaffordable.
Agree … talking about 30mph speeds for watt savings … who the heck rides at 30mph (not normal humans that often unless going down hill). I get that “aero is king”, and believe it … but that “king” gain ramps up quickly based on speed. At slower “more common” speeds, aero matters, but A LOT less. It still matters, but spending 1000$ plus on wheels for riders that may usually top out around 15-18 mph just usually doesn’t make sense, the gains over a quality set is 300-500$ wheels (yes they do exist) isn’t “twice” what you’re paying for. The one thing I do 100% agree with … tires. I would argue that nothing changes a bike like quality tires.
Most of these videos are like that. My bike shop specializes (pun intended) in used and vintage high grade bikes, A mid '90's Specialized StumpJumper cost me, with upgrades, a total $500 They installed new tyres,tubes cassette. chain, pedals and more. Elsewhere the same bikes from 2010 with no upgrades are selling for $2000++ And you'll always meet that fellow who bought one for $50 bucks in a yard sale or thrift shop, Don'cha just hate those guys?
Fr fr she started it like " a 1000 £ bike can as fu. as a 10,000£ bike! Like damn a $1000+ really the fucking starting point for a decent roadbike now??!?!
@@chrisbowman5964 tbh I love hitting 30mph on flat and downhill, just pushing your self to do it is a wonderful thing but a sustained 30 nah not that good yet. I just hit it and back down lol. But I’m on My second bike this year one MTB one Road and love them both.
Now do a version of this for those of us in the audience who are not measuring our fun in grams, watts and milliseconds, but rather want an enjoyable comfortable reliable long-lived bike for transport and exercise. Because let's face it, the exercise benefit comes from the power you are producing, regardless of what speed you are achieving with it. What components are most important then?
When I got past all the nonsense about how fast I needed to go, I ditched my diamond framed bike and got a (two wheel) recumbent. I can ride all day long and have no pain whatsoever, appreciate the world around me, and still get a great workout. Instead of a grueling experience, biking is fun again. You don't have to be slow, but once you get out the mindset that you are always training for some race, you can enjoy any speed you want.
I'm not racing so vintage steel touring bike for me does it. Also the vintage mountain bikes are awesome commuters and gravel bikes . They take wide tires and they're great on or off road and a lot of them have rack mounts etc. If you look you can find them for amazingly low price and some look unused. , they do need new grease etc.
The specialized s-works 7 shoes have been the most uncomfortable shoes I’ve ever owned. I only keep them because I spent so much money on them and they look incredible but other than that I only wear them when I am not planing a big ride. The discomfort actually costs me performance. I own a few models from other brands which are far more comfortable for me personally and I don’t really have special feet. Typically I just put on cleats on my shoes and forget but the s-works are made from such a stiff fabric they never adapted to my feet.
Why would you provide the watts savings on a wheel upgrade based on speeds of 30 miles per hour (~48 kph) This is pro peleton kind of speeds. In the real world even on a group ride the majority of riders would be pretty happy with riding at 20 miles per hour (~32 kph).
@@andrewcockburn7484 Ya - but the review is aimed at "typical recreational riders" quoting power savings that they'll never be able to realize is pointless.
@@seriousbees There are still gains to be had. The gains do appreciate more quickly the faster you are going....but it is still faster to ride deeper wheels even at my level. Besides - personally I think they look a lot nicer....so that has to make you ride faster!! 🤣🤣
That's probably the figures given her by the manufacturer. She can't use a slower speed without data. The manufactures always use high speeds so the improvement looks better.
On the wheels, as most of us aren’t going to be going 30mph on a regular basis, what would be the saving in watts at 25kpm? Or is it not worth it for sportives?
If you can disregard cost, upgrading wheels and tires will have by far the biggest impact on your bike. Now just have to accept good wheels are $$, and some are $$$$
a few big ones for me have been (in order of purchase) New tires (GP5Ktr), a great kit including glasses, then bars (alu, but 4cm narrower), and finally now after 2 years, deep carbon wheels. I'll probably slow down now... wait who am I kidding, there's a whole lot more that could really benefit me... haha
the more body fat I carry the slower I am whatever the grams savings of my handlebars or cages. :-) Being properly fit to your bikes it IMHO the most critical item mentioned!
So true on the comment about replacing rear mechs. My 10 year old bike is now on its 3rd rear mech (1st one bent somehow, after a couple of years and the 2nd wore out). As it’s only mechanical Tiagra it’s not a big deal and I now have a 2nd hand 10 speed ultegra on it. Electronic replacement would have been 10x the cost 😬
For every gram you save in rotating mass is like to saving 3-7 grams stationary mass. Therefore I go with the lightweight tire tube combo. But got 3 flats in 2 weeks until adding sealant, now none on my commute.
The one I am most mad about on this list is the pedals in the what not to buy section. I agree 100% about it and the reasoning behind why it is there. But as a result it means the pedal-based power meter options would become even more expensive than just equipped a double digit pedal with a power meter since they have incentive to price it higher than a bling pedal. Whereas with a crank-based power meter we easily have 105 options rather than being forced into Dura-Ace for everything.
Continental grand sport race tires are under rated and punch High above their weight class. Gp 5000 are great tires but don’t overlook the GSR and they are often on big sale!$
I get the point on the weight gain on tires that is cheaper, but tires are a yearly purchase, while handlebar is a one-time purchase. Math should account that.
Good point re bike fits. Yes I know they work for some people and that’s great but I set mine up using You Tube videos. When I later had a bike fit they ended up moving the seat forward 5mm and that was it, everything else was spot on. As it happens I later moved the seat back 5mm anyway because it just felt better. A total waste of £*** ?
Thanks for the video. I really appreciate the amount of detail you gave, it help me to make my upgrading choices. I have a 1984 Cannondale Sr 400 with the original box rims. Do you think it would make any difference if I upgrade to carbon rims?
10:47 what's the point of comparing weight and price of a carbon aero handlebar which includes a built-in stem, with an alloy handlebar to which you must add (and pay for) a stem?
9:40 bruh, for ski boots it's the same thing, if you want a more technical and rigid shell you have to spend 4/500€, while the cheap ones from 150/200€ are allways wide and soft 😤
Most ppl. Ride for health ,but we like to move as fast as we can. All bicks are expensive. # 1. Buy a. LOCK,and don't leave your bick for more than a minute ! A battery powered angle grinder is quick...
Tyres, bar tape and saddle. Gear and brake cables (if no discs….showing my aged tech now) and brake blocks. (SwissStop) Then wheels. Beyond that? New bike….
I followed CW´s instrutions and: After spending on a Zipp´s Aerobar SL-70 I saved on a pair of 303 Firecrest. Cycling Weekly? Thank you for guiding me! ;D
It's interesting to see what the hard-core bikers want. As a plodder, I'm looking more for durability, maintainability, and rational cost. I totally agree on the frame: find one that you like, then you can (typically) switch components as you wish.
80% of people who get into cycling actually want the same thing its just that theyve been gaslit into thinking they gotta buy expensive ass lightweight components otherwise its trash and not a real bike
I agree. I slowly upgraded my bikes over a few years and I realized what I actually need. I then hemorrhaged money in a Ti frame and lesser components with the thought being that the frame is permanent, everything else is replaceable and can be upgraded in time if I feel like it.
I dont know what a hardcore biker is (hells angel or a mongol?). Nor what a plodder is (a thing that puts dots on a graph?)
But Im in the market for a frame from Time if I can get it. Im going to cheap out on components, except the drivetrain (either grx 825 di2 or 105 di2). My 1st upgrade will be an ergon carbon all road seatpost, I might even try to budget it in the build and scrape the floor on initial wheels with a set of cheesy formula wheels. A wheel upgrade is high on the list and the 1st thing I'll be saving for. Im loving the zipp 303 xplr sw aero gravel wheels, the ones with the golf ball like dimples (lifetime warrany). I prefer enve's lifetime incident protection and hope they make an aero gravel set before i make a purchase. Im probably 6 months to a year away from wheels. Shoes and crap im good with. I would be considering a nice seat vs aero bars as my next upgrade. Tires im undecided, but decidedly a pirelli fan. I might try a set even if they are slow and heavy with extra resistance (fan boy status)! Ignorance is bliss.😅
Im hoping the frame lasts 20 years, but who knows. I do know Time has the best carbon lay up and build process. Beyond any other bike brand. Their carbon work is so perfect its sexy. They weave their own carbon from individual fibers into tube shapes, including dyneema fibers for increased compliance where desired, not prepreg carbon sheets like most brands use. They use wax molds to pull the carbon fiber tubes over like a sock rather than weird air bladders which is common in the industry. They then pull the resin into the carbon under vacuum pressure, filling all the voids with epoxy resin in a monolithic nature, rather than pre impregnated sheets that often develop micro cracking and delamination over time. Time bikes are built the way NASA would build a carbon bike and made to stand the test of time. They arent the lightest bikes, but they are built to last, stiff as a race bike, and people say they have magical levels of compliance for how stiff they are. Removing the harshness of the road. Im not certain if im a fan of time bikes, ive never touched one yet. But my inner engineer squeals in delight seeing both their process and seeing mechanics, fitters, and industry insiders dote over their quality. My best description is watching a 60 year old man describe this as a bike made to be comfortable all day long. 200k? You got it. Will i ever, doubt it! Will my broken back be happy? Yes.
Upgrade your bike by downgrading your pizza intake volume.
Spend money on bike so that you won't have money to spend on Pizza.
Not if you’re fast your power to weight ratio can be trained. Regardless of pizza intake. No longer are the the thinnest the most powerful
I prefer to increase ride intensity to upgrade pizza intake volume
🤣🤣🤣🤣
id rather save on my bike and buy a big pizza
I would include saddle and grips. Two of the most comfort related upgrades and relatively cheap too.
Totally right. Had an opportunity to buy a used Brooks saddle, and the ride is totally different in comfort (and style)
Saddle is No.1 on my list
Every other source recommends upgrading the contact points (grips, pedals, saddle) to fit first BEFORE sinking money into more expensive upgrades.
Totally agree. Buy a saddle which is comfy. You ride much longer rides with that. If you feel uncomfortable, you will turn home. Forget the watts!
I would also include a mobile phone holder on the handlebars so I can watch porn while riding.
How to save money - just buy the best first because you're just gonna end up buying it later on.
Lmao so true!
At least I’m not the only one😂
So true
And that goes for anything else too. Not just bikes.
@@marekkozub8957 for real, Buy Once, Cry Once. Buy Nice, not twice.
Michelle respect. You have given very sensible advice. This kind of common sense is very rare in cycling journalism nowadays.
Well said.
i see, we all agree on the electronic shifting opinion
TL;DR: Upgrade your 1) tires, 2) wheels, 3) seat post, 4) brakes, and 5) shoes.
@Tihaai Presents Brakes???? Who needs brakes?
Saddle should be first...then tyres :-)
@@rustymaximus9179 They only slow you down...
A great way to save: buy a used top of the line bike of 3-5 years ago, rather than an entry level new one!
Also has the added bonus of forcing the user to learn how to carry out essential maintenance (bottom bracket, bearings, cable hoses and freehubs e.t.c), all invaluable skills for cyclists at any level
That is what i did, only paid 2K for a Cube Agree SL C16 which was only used for 1000km. Bought a new chain and Kassette, Boooom best deal ever
@@benjaminheil2864 nice deal! 2k not much of a starter budget 😜
Venge vias!
2nd hand prices are fucked now but yes this worked well before corona bullshit.
I've been a cyclist for most of my life, but only just go into road cycling from urban track bikes, and the one thing that has struck me is how you don't even need $1500 USD for a good entry level bike. My Spesh Allez base was $999 and it was an absolute steal, I cannot believe how good it is, everybody thinks I paid $$$$ for it too.
Nice to hear. I just got the 2022 version allez in black, love it. I may upgrade parts over time.
I looked @ the allez. But want to fit wider tires. So close, yet so far away... The Roubaix fits the 40mm i want, but its no where near the allez in price. Exact same geometry otherwise though and has the futureshock.
The Roubaix is my backup option right now. Im trying to gun for a time frame though. Its like NASA vs nascar...
Reluctantly, I have to agree about electronic shifting. I bought a canyon, with 10 speed ultegra Di2 in 2012. I love it and it's still superb, but the prices today would send me towards 105.
I got a handme down bike from my dad who was a road racer cause of a leg injury, now he gave me some money to spend on bike parts and this video really helped me a lot what to buy first
Great video CW. One small digression on bike fit. I had mine (cameras and lazers) at Sigma Sport, who discovered I'd been riding for years with my left sit bone of the saddle! My occasional knee pain disappeared also afterwards and my comfort and performance levels soared. A comprehensive bike fit is a medical necessity for many serious roadies, I would suggest, but I do agree not essential for all of us. Thanks guys!
I had a pro bike fit recently and it was a game changer, i’d certainly recommend a bike for first before upgrading anything, stem length, bar width, seat, pedals etc Great vid though
The proprietary components route is becoming a worrying trend.
"Drove into a car park barrier and cracked your seatpost? Ah, well, that'll be a new frame!"
[driving into barriers not advised for car, seatpost/handlebar or frame health]
You mean a trend that’s been happening for decades?
@@MichelleArthursBrennan I hate Giant for this.
@@fredericom2650 Trek is horrible with this stuff too. Worse in my experience. Seatposts, BBs, stems and headsets, and even making their own different rear wheel spacing on some of their mountain bikes with very limited hub options, and who knows how long they'll continue supporting this stuff(probably not long, as they like to change things every other year) and how much they'll charge for them(probably more and more). Ugh.
I upgraded my stock wheels for aluminum DT Swiss. The difference is amazing. I'll go carbon, maybe, later as I think it's expensive and unnecessary for none competitive riders. Plus, the major risk of breaking the wheels thanks to pot holes or sketchy road conditions.
Carbons rims have more flexibility then Alu rims, once the alu is dented it’s dented, carbon has more flex this why people use them in cyclocross races.
The chance of the carbon rim flexing a returning to its original form.
Enjoyed that. Spot on about the bike fit, everyone seems to be doing it these days and charging silly money. The best fitters go by eye and ultimately by communicating with their clients Shout out to Vankru; they know their stuff.
Don't overspend on your first bike. You likely don't know what you really prefer and what suits you best. Try a cheaper one, experiment with different frames, sizes and handle bars, before you commit to buying a bike for 5000 bucks.
yes. buy a used bike and sell it in a year or two when you know better what you want.
Who drops 5k on their 1st bike? Im getting ready to drop 5k, but im 40. Ive ridden tons of bikes and know i want a drop bar bike with endurance based geometry, capable of fitting 45mm tires. Leading me to a gravel bike. But I dont want a long wheelbase gravel bike, I want closer to road geometry, with just enough stretch to make me feel in control on a decent. I also want something of high build quality, stiff, yet compliant. Leading me to Time cycles for my frame. The other brand im digging is look. If i cant wind up with either of those theres the Specialized Roubaix, but i would be sacrificing with tire clearance. I would gain some nimbleness, and lose some downhill control, but ultimately be okay.
Everyones 1st bike in my opinion should be purchased for you by your parents. And be highly budgeted. My 1st bike was a 4 speed bike from a toy store called toys r us. My 2nd was a GT mach one, my 3rd was a schwinn cruiser. As a young adult i had a couple vintage schwinn road bikes i loved. One i flipped the road bars around to give the bike ram horns! Loved that thing. I dont think it would work with todays road shifters, but maybe with a mtb setup? I used the reverse drops for a more upright position, the flats were my drops.
Ive taken a long time off cycling. My relationship with cycling was rekindled with a full suspension bike i was given 2 years ago. A 2014 Trek remedy 7 29er. I love the bike, but my soul is a road biker. Ive been looking into things the whole 2 years ive had the bike. I did break my back 1 year ago which put a damper on things, but now im back riding and looking to get back where i was. Im glad ive waited as bikes have changed. Road bikes are going 40mm, gravel is getting a bit big for its britches, and im looking to capitalize. Ive test ridden some geometries, know i dont want a race bike, and am settled into a bike design im sure will leave me comfortable for years to come.
Edit: sorry i lied. My 1st bike was a bigwheel tricycle for very young kids. It has full plastic wheels and cranks on the front wheel like a penny farthing! I used to love doing sick burnies on that thing as a young kid. I also had a bike i barely remember. I know it came with training wheels, it was blue, and most of my memories of it involve taking the training wheels off. Also riding it dow the hill @ the end of my street. By hill i mean like 4 feet of elevation!😅 seems bigger when your 2 feet tall!
Agree with most of these points. A professional bike fit is not the same as some kid at the local shop with a chart and a tape measure. Most bike fit issues are the result of poor recommendations by inexperienced bike sales people. Ask any professional bike fitter and they will tell you at least 50% of people are sold a frame 1 size too big. I see it out on the road every day. Every bike shop i have asked to size me, says i'm a 56cm based on my height. I'm a 53cm as confirmed by the best bike fitter in the business. If you are doing high mileage and/or have comfort or pain issues a proper bike fit is the best value upgrade .
I have found the cheapest and easiest way to lose weight from a bicycle is to lose the weight from the engine aka me. I could spend thousands of dollars to make a bike 10lbs lighter and it still wouldn't improve my performance like losing those 10lbs from my body.
Exactly! I saw a fairly obese guy bragging about his expensive super light bike yet he was probably 250 pounds.
I decided to chuck the whole mindset of trying to be fast and went for comfort instead. Got a two-wheeled recumbent with under-the-seat steering and get all the exercise I need painlessly. Biking is fun again.
The point is what about after those ten pounds and the next ten. Now you're lean but still want to shave some seconds.
@@stevek8829 You'll be happy to cross that bridge when you come to it.
I made the same point to my cycling enthusiast friends. 😅 I’ve lost 10kg this year. No way could I lose that weight from my bike 😂
I only spend a lot of money on the frame, wheels, electronic components, handlebar, saddle, clothes, helmet, shoes and GPS. So my S-Works Venge has cheap pedals I guess? Plus I have another bike for the week-ends!
generally its whole bike
Love videos like this! Thank you, Michelle.
It can be tricky to identify what defines an "upgrade". Performance, utility or comfort related, or flashy name brand aesthetics - upgrades can be different for each rider.
Yes, a $2500 stock bike is the perfect starting point. Performance upgrades will likely look different for a more expensive bike. Biggest performance related bang for the buck - by a huge margin - are tires. I have multiple sets of tires for different rides and surfaces. But I do get tired of changing tires....so I can see myself eventually 'upgrading' to a new wheelset to make this swap easier. One wheelset and tires for road and another for gravel.
Thank you for making this helpful video.
Excellent presentation. Absolutely loved the '£2.99 bottle holder will do' comment! I'm no youngster, so comfort is my priority. I'm looking to replace 25 with 28 or even 32mm tires to improve comfort on our dreadful UK road surfaces.
I’ve crashed probably 100 times in my life. I’ve never bent a rear derailleur. I’ve smashed them up and scratched them badly but never bent one beyond very minor repairs. I’ve snapped and bent many derailleur hangers. That’s a separate replaceable part made of soft aluminum for the purpose of saving frame and derailleur. It can be readjusted from full deflection (bent so derailleur touches spokes) seven times on average before it snaps. A new one is $20. Biggest threat for a typical rider is derailleur into spokes, which is largely prevented by the electronic perimeter limits on electronic shifters.
I have had a Di2 rear derailleur simply fail, it doesn't always require an accident. Luckily it was still within warranty but if it hadn't been I think I would not have stayed with the Di2 system.
Don't get me wrong, it's lovely when it's working perfectly, gear changes are buttery smooth, but then gear changes are pretty damn good on a properly set up XTR system. Di2 was on the bike when I bought it and I enjoy having it but I wouldn't go to the expense of buying it if it wasn't already on the bike or if, for example, I was building a new bike. Falls in the marginal gains category for me and it's expensive.
That is alot of crashing. Have you considered upgrading your handling skills/ judgement? Cycling six decades cannot remember more than a dozen ...probably a few more but my crashing days were over a couple years ago . When I slipped of a curb in winter. Yeah on foot. Rebuilt pelvis and total hip replacement . I think the short crank length trend is in my future 175s are painful on my road bike and 170s on my recumbent are still a bit painful after a couple days. So my next upgrade is shorter crank length.
@@stevengagnon4777 I'm in my 6th decade of riding if I start counting from age 5 when I first rode a bike. I had my first derailleur bike at age 12. Three decades of racing which guaranteed result in the occasional crash if you're actually racing. Pretty sure I don't need to upgrade my skills. You can't account for things like hitting a rock while in a tight race pack, or coming around a poorly lit corner in a nighttime crit and somebody mysteriously put a traffic cone there on a course that was clear during the warm up laps. Such things do not happen if you just ride normally. The majority of my race crashes were because others around or in front of me crashed, and took me down with them. Or the time I'm leading a small group at high speed and riding along a hedge, and suddenly a gazelle flies across the road and run straight into my front wheel. It took maybe half a second from visual contact, until physical contact with the goat. Maybe I'm unlucky, but not riding skills related. Also, I grew up in Sweden, so I probably had 20 crashes a year when I was young due to riding on snow and ice training in off season. I counted those in the 100 because it was on a derailleur bike most of the time. I've broken a few things, but luckily all crashes except two resulted in just road rash, bruises, or just a bruised ego (like that time when I touched a curb in a sprint and came off into the sand filling ears, eyes, hair, mouth, nose, etc etc with fine sand). Sorry about your hip. I'm going through ACJ surgery recover as we speak. Cycling crash. Incidentally the first and only one in probably ten years, and at a speed of 3-5kph. Walking speed.
@@bossthefluff Hope your recovery goes well. Sorry about the comment too it was snarky . I did break a few bones along the way and I will admit judgment was the main factor. Like sprinting staight through a wheel chair ramp in the dark only to discover it was a curb. Was real fortunate to get my right shoulder to hit the sidewalk first ...my head hit hard next....cycling while being miffed is a bad combination. Yeah I really didn't add all the times when I went down in the winter...you are right that was frequent event in those icy rutts. That became far less frequent when I started using studded snow tires in the winter. I would leave those on my cyclocross/commuter until till we got a a good heavy down poor in spring to wash the sand that was pored on them during the winter. Thst first ride with the tubulars on was amazing. Didn't race though so that it cuts down . Did have one of my bikes snap into two pieces once ...bang and suddenly it wasn't really a bike anymore right in one of the busiest intersections at rush hour. The faces on the drivers at the stop 🚦 was priceless when I scooped up the two halves of bike ....judgment again. That was the bike I endo on that curb and should have scrapped. Didn't find anything wrong at the time other than the heart shaped 🥨 front wheel will the Russian training tubular still intact. It did take a half decade of riding before it snapped. Anyway have a great day. Good reply. Still thinking about that gazelle. That had to hurt. I've had a couple of encounter s with deer 🦌 in the night fortunately no contact. But had a small heard of deer surrounding me and all going in the same direction one night ... it was surreal having them in reaching distance like that...I think they liked me. Also had a 🦌 leap across the road right in front out of the woods like that one night 20 feet ⁷ away that was too close I was full tilt down a hill and he was full tilt crossing in front of me. He made it completely across in one leap...almost i heard one set of heals kicking the pavement directly to my left...an amazing sight so close up. He was a bigger boy than me ( and a matching rack to prove it) and no time to react in the dark and having no lights other than the moon .
@@stevengagnon4777 Sounds like we could spend a whole campfire weekend together and never run out of crash lore, and it sounds like we probably have several stories with similatrities. The gazelle was medium painful.I think we were just around 45kph so not super fast, but enough to hurt. I hit my head pretty hard, and got a concussion, but other than a trashed helmet and a punctured top tube on my Dogma there wasn't any damage. Luckily carbon frames are pretty straightforward to repair, so it wasn't a write-off. I was on a 500 days of consecutive riding streak, maybe 150 days in, so I had to get back up and ride the next day. Most certainly not at speed, or in a bunch. A bit wobbly, but I got a ride in at least. But I admit, a few crashes were simply horribly poor judgement. I was on a work assignment in Melbourne, AU and had a snapped chain on an early evening ride. It got dark, and it was cold, and I had no lights and only enough cash to buy a new chain. So, instead of using the cash for a cab, I rode along the poorly lit beach walk (at about 30kph to keep warm). Somebody built a small kink in the path and built a 70cm tall brick wall across. I rode straight into it at speed. I saw it milliseconds before impact. Somersaulted and landed on my butt in sitting position. Not a scratch. Not even a bruise. But my bike steel bike was folded in two. Funny enough the front wheel held true, but the down tube buckled.
Excellent advice. The only point I personally find controversial is re the pedals: my experience with different brands / systems (I am not stating here my choice as it is irrelevant and I am not any reference) says that one should not disregard this matter: power transfer, smoothness, easiness of clip / unclip and even walkability means there is here a wide range of variables which I find it is a good place to spend rather then to save money on. In case you haven't published something similar it would be interesting to have a video about the accessories: lights, hydration systems, tools, safety gear... and so on. Congratulations for the superb presentation and to whoever has edited the video
Yep, last year I bought my first road bike- Bianchi Oltre XR3 Disc and less than a year I am replacing the bike with Factor Ostro Vam. The point is, if you can afford the best your budget permits, don't skimp it would be more expensive in the long run. And definitely invest in a professional bike fit!
£1000 is a lot of money for most people. I can only afford to ride a bike because I can do my own mechanical work and then I can buy second hand
Indeed it is. All these cycling channels seem to be made up of ex-professional competitive cyclists and aimed at other competitive and wannabe-competitive cyclists. The vast majority of bicycle users are pretty much invisible to these channels.
@@KimonFrousios The best comment as of yet, I do not know why I'm even watching these channels... But the man can dream.....
@@KimonFrousios best comment
These channels and bike magazines dont bat an eyelid when things cost many thousands......They must have well paid jobs.....
As a mid-level rider I have to say nothing improved my ride more than getting 40mm carbon wheels.
What bike are you riding? Interested in upgrading to carbon wheels but don’t know if it’s worth doing on a £700 hybrid bike 🤷♂️ I work as a delivery rider so anything that makes hours of cycling more comfortable and fun is welcomed…
@@ItsAnGoose Mavic. Try going with broader tires and latex tube first. A lot cheaper and a lot of potential comfort.
@@meibing4912 thanks for the advice!
AGREED! 40-50mm carbon rims on smooth hubs are a huge win
Where to spend addition? I'd add power meter.
Will it make your bike lighter or more aero? No.
Will it enable you to go faster? Yes. Being able to train better by having power data will make you stronger and fitter and enable faster speeds.... It doesn't have to be a dual sided, wizy wazy, one either. More budget options are not too costly now and would do the job.
My list would be 1. Bike fit 2. Saddle 3. Wheels 4. Tyres 5. Shifter/derailleur 6. Brakes
Bike fit, bravo, bang on
Why would you update shifters? Unless you bought an ancient bike or its broken upgrading shifters is way too expensive for little practical difference.
@@biking-places I have an ancient bike 😃
@@truthseeker8483 fair enough, it makes plenty of sense if you're upgrading something like 7-speed RSX brifters to something more modern. it'll cost ya though.
@@biking-places I had downtube shifters and 7 speeds...now I have the downtube shifter mounted on the handlebar near my hand and still have 7 speeds but it made a BIG difference.😃
loving the pragmatic tone and in times like this its good to cut through the madness of 600 rear mechs. thank you
Nice, straight shooting. Thanks for a good look at where not to spend and providing some pretty inexpensive upgrades. I still struggle with carbon wheels. I use Hunt alloys on my gravel bike and can afford a 700c and 650b set for the same price as their “ low cost” carbon wheels. My mountain bike has carbon everywhere, except the wheel set. Hate the thought of tagging a sharp rock on new carbon wheels!
When deciding where to cut weight I look at moving parts first, then stationary parts. Gram for gram moving parts cost more in energy needed to move them. Ride thru a puddle and collect even a slight coating of mud on the tire and one will fee a noticeable deference in the effort needed to move the bike compared to the same amount of mud on your frame. Pedals are moving parts and connect the energy source to the drive train, buy the optimal in weight and friction that your budget will allow.
Your points on electronic shifting and bike fit is spot on IMHO. I have/had both. I appreciate them, but they are decadent.
Pleasantly surprised to hear about upgrades related to longevity as well. A frame that suits you is the best investment you can make. Never had one faced, but I’m curious how much it would affect things.
Speaking as a bike mechanic, I wouldn't think it would affect things much. Any decent mechanic is going to make sure things are set properly when they build up the bike. If things aren't right, they'll pull out the tool to sort it out. A mechanic that isn't decent might not do a great job putting the bike together even if you pay them to face the appropriate points.
Try to avoid buying all new stuff. Top end gear can be had for low end prices on the used marketplace.
Completely agree about electronic shifting. For me, biking is all about the mechanical experience. Yes, I charge my phone and bike computer, but I can still ride without those. You can't ride if you forget to charge your electronic shifting. Well, you can but not well
The batteries last months and you are warned well in advance if the need charging. Should you however ignore the low battery warning, say on your rear mech, you can swap with the fd battery and still ride comfortably home
@@ricksvic6062 if you have a front mech, for one. But also, it seems people run out quite a bit for some reason, even though they're warned. A cable is far cheaper and can last years. Plus I don't have to worry about the cable being a different shape when I need to eventually replace it. It takes far less time to adjust a barrel adjuster than it does to charge a battery and while you may not consider charging to be maintenance, consider the fact that you can't ride without it unless you drop $60 for a spare battery.
@@RedWingsninetyone I have read your comment several times and are struggling to understand your point... cables stretch, get dirty, fray, corrode, all this leads to shifting latency. Digital is instant, accurate and on an axs system ultra precise. I'm sorry but electronic shifting is superior. Its not cheaper, but it is superior
@@ricksvic6062 they stretch, and that's taken care of by a quarter of a turn of a barrel adjuster every now and again, and not even often. Dirt and corrosion is rarely an issue, especially if you perform regular maintenance on your bike. Same with fraying. I had a cable on my old bike for 6 years before having it replaced. And I replaced it not because it absolutely needed it, but because it was already in the shop and going to cost about $5 to have them do it. Sorry, but no.
Brilliant video and really well presented. I was only searching for upgrade videos the other week. I have a 2010 Cannondale Synapse Hi Mod Ultegra. A brilliant endurance bike which still looks new. But I want to upgrade where possible and keep what I believe is a great frame. Wheels and tyres (currently original stock wheels and 4Seasons tyres) definitely a good place to start. Thanks
Carbon frames, if they haven't been in an accident and have been well cared for, will last a very long time. You will notice a big difference with a wheel upgrade. A nice set of Hunt's or Enve's with tubeless continental GP 5000 will be like you got a whole new bike. Hopefully your frame and brake setup will let you go with at least 25 tyres....if you welcome comfort, go for 28's if they'll fit.
In general this is good advice, well presented. The carbon wheels have benefits in more responsiveness, but the aero is exaggerated. Almost nobody rides at 30 mph! If you hit 30 mph on your ride, for 98% of us it's for a very short time. Since air drag is proportional to the square of air speed, the aero benefit of deep section wheels at 20 mph (even that as an average speed is an aspiration to many of us) is less than half the aero gain at 30 mph. I own carbon wheels and love them...and if you love cycling and can afford it, do what you like. Most of us ride for fun and if an item makes you happy, and you can be responsible spending the money, go for it!
I'd add the following: I have bought less costly bib shorts online that have been just as good as some that cost 5x as much as the name brands in the stores. Even if you get a bad pair, the price difference is so great that you can throw them away.
I have bought used bikes before and saved a ton of money. There is some risk, of course, but you can also get a bad frame buying new. If you are buying a new bike, buy it pretty close to how you really want it, because the manufacturer is buying components for a fraction of what you and I can buy them for one at a time. Do not buy a bike that's the wrong size, you will hate it.
Bike computers: you can get almost all the functionality anyone needs using a $50 bike computer and a phone in your pocket.
Bike lights: there are some pretty good lights for under $50.
Bike accessories go on sale. Checking out your local shop or online stores will uncover name-brand helmets and shoes that are marked down if you're patient and persistent and not overly fussy about color or style.
The cheapest way to have a flagship bike?
Get the lowest base model of the best frameset, ride that build into the ground, then upgrade. The result will end up being $1000 less than the manufacturer's OEM offering when done and it will be a totally custom fit (cockpit, wheelset, etc...) and most definitely lighter.
This is a solid advise if there wasn’t a global pandemic bike component shortage.
By the time you’ve worn out your drivetrain. You’ll be talking advantage of trickle down technology at a lower price.
But I don’t see supply availability of groupset or prices going down in the next 2 to 3 years. It can only get more expensive since current demand is so high.
@@iMadrid11 Sram coming in with the rival groupset at 1429 us dollares or 1170 euros today
@@bernardo9202 I know it’s headline news today. Good luck finding one in stock though. Anyone upgrading or building a bike is going to want one.
@@iMadrid11 yeah for sure. But thought you didn't know because you said, it would be only available in a few years from know
@@iMadrid11 Thanks. A 105 equipped bike straight out of the LBS will last someone eons. If they wear out that groupset, then they're serious riders and deserve something like Dura-Ace or Ultegra. Or, they can continue with 105 which is more group than most mortals need.
I just ordered some latex tubes and a new set of Conti GP5000s...interested to see how the bike behaves compared to existing butyl and old Conti GT tyres...let’s see!
If the hype is true, you probably just got yourself a free 20+ watts.
@@chrisgilligan4968 Haha...I’ll find out. Waiting for those Strava PBs to tumble this weekend 😆
So, the verdict? Worth it?
@@_Just_Some1 Well, I didn’t see my Strava PBs tumble! The ride did feel good, but difficult to say how much was due to new tyres v tubes. Perhaps I should have changed tubes only. I’m now in the process of upgrading to carbon wheels and I’ve opted for butyl tubes so I guess that says something.
Why am I even watching this, I don't even have the money to spend on anything
m with u
@@atulmavinkurve4392 because she is hot and therefore probably not heavy cyclist which means the advice was made by someone else.
Or she is just getting to cycling more after a pause that led her to gaining weight and becoming hot on the process...
This does not mean that if she was thinner because of training that she would not be hot.
Again that is a body of someone that has the experience to give that kind of advice...
Maybe I'm wrong...
@@nelsonsilva6842 wtf dude
Where to spend: In the sales!
Where to save: In the sales!
Wait until the new stuff's out, and then buy the previous seasons. It's usually just the same tech.
Sadly with the stock problems I don't think sales will be great this year.
Great advice but 2 years out of date, huge supply issues worldwide so fewer discounts, maybe some lightly used or 2nd deals out there now
Your advice are great for pro and semi pro cycles/sport cycling. I am a commuter and I been bicycle for many years and never recommend or seek costum frames or super seats.
I don't know if this is a youtuber problem recommending your video and others like it or maybe it is a good idea to title you video for the type of cycling you do.
I am glad you are cycling and I hope your videos are helpful for someone.
Honestly do your research and compare/check bicycles that have a fair good mix of drivetrain components after you have sort of decided the frame you have in mind.
Tyres, saddle, pedals and handlebars are the more likely others you may want to invest/replace later on.
Road tubeless is an upgrade you should consider, but ONLY if you NEED to buy new wheels or when buying a new bike. I have been road tubless for a decade. The last 3 years have sucked a lot less as tubeless has gotten a lot better. Great ride. I went 26,000 miles before getting a flat, and that was a side wall cut.
If you want to ride a fair bit (more than 100k a week) finding the right bike for you is a minefield. Think I got it right 15 years ago by fluke, but the frame has cracked now. Not sure that 300+ pound shoes are faster than 70 pound shoes. Especially white dhb lace ups. I usually like to upgrade the bar to one with a flatter top, ideally carbon for comfort. Tyres definitely.
I bought a used gravelbike (~400£) and upgraded parts for ~600£. I now have a great complement bike to my road racer for 1k£, very pleased!
Wow, love the honesty, and the feeling that you are not just trying to sell me stuff. Thank you.
Great vid, no-nonsense advice. Although I think the point about bike fit could be miscontrued... I'd say it's absolutely worth getting a bike fit in the first place (even if not a super techy one). By far the biggest improvement made to my avg speed came immediately following a bike fit. And I'm not talking half a km/h either, it was much much more noticeable. Much cheaper than trying to shed 50g here and there too :). Wheels definitely the next best bang for buck.
Kool pads with Ultegra calipers for me! Work fantastically.
I changed from some giant sr somethings to campagnolo Zonda wheels and they've been fantastic, feel extremely free, I'm sure there are faster wheels out there but I have no complaints!
I ride a "tange Prestige" steel frame with a modern Ultegra groupset, and it goes as fast as I could want, but I wish I could find more modern components that fit my frame dimensions in areas like seat post, handlebars, and my WAHOO roam holder!
You can get great deals on the used market, if you want a carbon frame to build your bike around you frequently find them for less than $300, and that's including fork and seat tube. You want to save more money look for rim brakes and mechanical shifters, lots of people ditching those in favor of di2 and disc brakes. If you don't mind scouring for deals you can get $3000 value for less than a grand.
Thank you, this is very informative as I am considering building my own bike. Cheers!
If you can, do it! It’s so nice having a bike that you 100% love everything.
I don’t regret getting my Ultegra pedals, they’re wider than standard pedals so fit my feet better, and I barely feel them when I ride!
Good bike tools (even though they are not components) would be on my list on where to spend. It saves you time, headache and money in the medium run
Agreed!
Can you suggest the essential beginners kit components?
@@rbruce63 It depends a lot of what you plan to do or how much you want to invest.
My first advice is to buys tools from TOP brands like Topeak, Park Tools or Lezynne.
My favourite recommended items:
- Topeak Tool Ratchet Rocket Lite NTX
- LEZYNE Minipumpe CNC Pocket Drive
- Topeak PrepBox Tool Case
Unless you’re racing, anything that makes it more enjoyable to ride your bike more often is worth it. Aesthetics upgrades included.
I'm very careful and conservative with my own upgrades, but I agree the best bike is the one you use and some people are simply motivated to ride more by getting new and flashy gear. If it makes them happy riders all I say is: "Go for it!". I cringe when I hear people criticize a "slow" or "newbie" rider buying a 15K bike. If that's what it takes to make them ride its worth every penny invested.
Good Frame +
1. Wheel
2. Light Seat + Seat Post
3. Aero handle bar
4. Less rolling resistance tyre
5. good carbon clipless pedals
Electronic shifting: get the point on replacement components. But you do use an extreme example. The ultegra replacement cost me 178 euro, which I probably saved because of less wear of my cassette, chain and do not forget the replacement of the cables every year if you want to have smooth shifting. That was after 4 years after someone crashed into it. That is 44 euro per year. Electronic performance is so much better the mechanical also under load. I do about 12k/year with electronic. I did notice a drop in wear of chain and cassette when going electronic.
You see so many out on a £5000 bike, in all weather's. I have 6 bikes ranging from a Dolan fixed with mudguards, for winter, to a Flandria summer bike. Took a few years to get them all , but it gives me more riding options for weather conditions & sort of ride I'm doing.
Finally! A video about upgrades!
Super interesting , except that I'll point out that all of this is geared towards a pro rider, or at least, a semi-pro. With the prices as they are these days (and I feel cycling is gathering an amount of show-offs, or dandies), it is becoming quickly unaffordable.
Agree … talking about 30mph speeds for watt savings … who the heck rides at 30mph (not normal humans that often unless going down hill). I get that “aero is king”, and believe it … but that “king” gain ramps up quickly based on speed. At slower “more common” speeds, aero matters, but A LOT less. It still matters, but spending 1000$ plus on wheels for riders that may usually top out around 15-18 mph just usually doesn’t make sense, the gains over a quality set is 300-500$ wheels (yes they do exist) isn’t “twice” what you’re paying for. The one thing I do 100% agree with … tires. I would argue that nothing changes a bike like quality tires.
Most of these videos are like that. My bike shop specializes (pun intended) in used and vintage high grade bikes, A mid '90's Specialized StumpJumper cost me, with upgrades, a total $500 They installed new tyres,tubes cassette. chain, pedals and more. Elsewhere the same bikes from 2010 with no upgrades are selling for $2000++ And you'll always meet that fellow who bought one for $50 bucks in a yard sale or thrift shop, Don'cha just hate those guys?
Fr fr she started it like " a 1000 £ bike can as fu. as a 10,000£ bike! Like damn a $1000+ really the fucking starting point for a decent roadbike now??!?!
@@chrisbowman5964 tbh I love hitting 30mph on flat and downhill, just pushing your self to do it is a wonderful thing but a sustained 30 nah not that good yet. I just hit it and back down lol. But I’m on My second bike this year one MTB one Road and love them both.
@@acyutanandadas1326 No, don't hate. But where is this wonderful bike shop?
Now do a version of this for those of us in the audience who are not measuring our fun in grams, watts and milliseconds, but rather want an enjoyable comfortable reliable long-lived bike for transport and exercise. Because let's face it, the exercise benefit comes from the power you are producing, regardless of what speed you are achieving with it. What components are most important then?
When I got past all the nonsense about how fast I needed to go, I ditched my diamond framed bike and got a (two wheel) recumbent. I can ride all day long and have no pain whatsoever, appreciate the world around me, and still get a great workout. Instead of a grueling experience, biking is fun again. You don't have to be slow, but once you get out the mindset that you are always training for some race, you can enjoy any speed you want.
I'm not racing so vintage steel touring bike for me does it. Also the vintage mountain bikes are awesome commuters and gravel bikes . They take wide tires and they're great on or off road and a lot of them have rack mounts etc. If you look you can find them for amazingly low price and some look unused. , they do need new grease etc.
The specialized s-works 7 shoes have been the most uncomfortable shoes I’ve ever owned. I only keep them because I spent so much money on them and they look incredible but other than that I only wear them when I am not planing a big ride. The discomfort actually costs me performance. I own a few models from other brands which are far more comfortable for me personally and I don’t really have special feet. Typically I just put on cleats on my shoes and forget but the s-works are made from such a stiff fabric they never adapted to my feet.
That’s too bad, with some arch support insoles I love mine…
Why would you provide the watts savings on a wheel upgrade based on speeds of 30 miles per hour (~48 kph) This is pro peleton kind of speeds. In the real world even on a group ride the majority of riders would be pretty happy with riding at 20 miles per hour (~32 kph).
The higher forces on the wheel at 30 mph will be easier to measure. It also makes the power savings look bigger...
@@andrewcockburn7484 Ya - but the review is aimed at "typical recreational riders" quoting power savings that they'll never be able to realize is pointless.
@@chrisgilligan4968 sounds like you just discovered that aero wheels are not worth it for the average rider
@@seriousbees There are still gains to be had. The gains do appreciate more quickly the faster you are going....but it is still faster to ride deeper wheels even at my level.
Besides - personally I think they look a lot nicer....so that has to make you ride faster!! 🤣🤣
That's probably the figures given her by the manufacturer. She can't use a slower speed without data. The manufactures always use high speeds so the improvement looks better.
Excellent advice, guidance, and presentation.
Just 1 correction: Carbon fiber is way way way less malleable than aluminum.
Maybe it s just ky case but if you have internal routing, mechanical shifting tends to be awful, so electronic is kinda a must
On the wheels, as most of us aren’t going to be going 30mph on a regular basis, what would be the saving in watts at 25kpm? Or is it not worth it for sportives?
If you can disregard cost, upgrading wheels and tires will have by far the biggest impact on your bike. Now just have to accept good wheels are $$, and some are $$$$
I have a rim brakes bike and am looking to upgrade some gear shifter, hub and selector upgrades any video for this?
a few big ones for me have been (in order of purchase) New tires (GP5Ktr), a great kit including glasses, then bars (alu, but 4cm narrower), and finally now after 2 years, deep carbon wheels. I'll probably slow down now... wait who am I kidding, there's a whole lot more that could really benefit me... haha
bought myself some carbon wheels, silly but beautiful :)
Last 10 years? My current ride, bought used, has been under my rump for 48 years. And what does "faced" mean at 2:02?
the more body fat I carry the slower I am whatever the grams savings of my handlebars or cages. :-)
Being properly fit to your bikes it IMHO the most critical item mentioned!
Ride upgrades instead of buying upgrades. 😁
Love the British accent, I could listen to Michelle talk all day.....
Clothes. A good set of comfortable shots and a well fitted top will do far more than super expensive bike bits
Tires and inner tubes will save you weight and will be faster than a new set of £2000 wheels.
How about the entire groupset or at least cranks, chainrings and cassete. Thise are quite good on weight savings and pretty much affordable.
Nice job! 👏👏👏 When Shimano offers a 105 electronic shifting groupset, I think that will be the time for you to make the transition. 😃👊🚴🏼
So true on the comment about replacing rear mechs. My 10 year old bike is now on its 3rd rear mech (1st one bent somehow, after a couple of years and the 2nd wore out). As it’s only mechanical Tiagra it’s not a big deal and I now have a 2nd hand 10 speed ultegra on it. Electronic replacement would have been 10x the cost 😬
For every gram you save in rotating mass is like to saving 3-7 grams stationary mass. Therefore I go with the lightweight tire tube combo. But got 3 flats in 2 weeks until adding sealant, now none on my commute.
The one I am most mad about on this list is the pedals in the what not to buy section. I agree 100% about it and the reasoning behind why it is there. But as a result it means the pedal-based power meter options would become even more expensive than just equipped a double digit pedal with a power meter since they have incentive to price it higher than a bling pedal. Whereas with a crank-based power meter we easily have 105 options rather than being forced into Dura-Ace for everything.
Terrific insights. I'm sold on this editor/presenter
Bought a Pinarello with Campangolo… I’m set 👍👍
Continental grand sport race tires are under rated and punch High above their weight class.
Gp 5000 are great tires but don’t overlook the GSR and they are often on big sale!$
How'd we go from upgrades to a custom frame altogether, right from the start?
Wow this was a super great video. Thanks!
That was clear and helpful video thanks.
11:07 Okay but you buy new tires more frequently than handlebars (I hope)
The seat and hubs are the heart of your bike ,
Kickstand and spokes decorations
I get the point on the weight gain on tires that is cheaper, but tires are a yearly purchase, while handlebar is a one-time purchase. Math should account that.
Good point re bike fits. Yes I know they work for some people and that’s great but I set mine up using You Tube videos. When I later had a bike fit they ended up moving the seat forward 5mm and that was it, everything else was spot on. As it happens I later moved the seat back 5mm anyway because it just felt better. A total waste of £*** ?
Thanks for the video. I really appreciate the amount of detail you gave, it help me to make my upgrading choices. I have a 1984 Cannondale Sr 400 with the original box rims. Do you think it would make any difference if I upgrade to carbon rims?
10:47 what's the point of comparing weight and price of a carbon aero handlebar which includes a built-in stem, with an alloy handlebar to which you must add (and pay for) a stem?
It's a separate bar and stem if you look closely. The handlebar itself is the Metron Aero, and it doesn't come with a stem.
Avoid proprietary, so avoid canyon and cannondale. Got it
You should do a video about the best upgrades for weight and aerodynamics
Hmmm……. Not one mention about components. That would be #2 on my list right behind frames. Seat comfort would also rank higher.
I would add that quality cables make a huge difference.
I'm still using friction shifters and a screw-on 14-28 freewheel
9:40 bruh, for ski boots it's the same thing, if you want a more technical and rigid shell you have to spend 4/500€, while the cheap ones from 150/200€ are allways wide and soft 😤
Most ppl. Ride for health ,but we like to move as fast as we can. All bicks are expensive. # 1. Buy a. LOCK,and don't leave your bick for more than a minute ! A battery powered angle grinder is quick...
Great video. Well structured!
Tyres, bar tape and saddle. Gear and brake cables (if no discs….showing my aged tech now) and brake blocks. (SwissStop)
Then wheels.
Beyond that? New bike….
I followed CW´s instrutions and:
After spending on a Zipp´s Aerobar SL-70 I saved on a pair of 303 Firecrest.
Cycling Weekly? Thank you for guiding me! ;D
Knowledge is power...THANKS