Odd that Trick Flow's cam gear did not have you line up the crank gear dot with the cam gear dot. That is a new one. It looks to be 180egrees out. I see someone else commented, but to eye ball accross the gear like that, you way better than me. Keep it up. !
You're very perceptive. Truth told, I didn't assemble it that way. When I went back and filmed, it was sitting that way so I ran with it. :) Since it doesn't matter which way you do it, I left it that way.
Yea ive got a 94 gt an we are in process of rebuilding it aluminum heads an all all the good stuff carb also i love it hopefully it goes well as yours did
Engine stands have a couple holes that allow the deck surface to be flat or on top. Makes pushing in the piston and guiding rod at same time a breeze. Do all the the ones on one side, then the other...Nice motor.
You should know a lots of engine builders won't tell you the displacement, just the hp from a dyno run! You said the displacement just after I posted my comment. After watching your video, I believe you will get your hp.
Although I haven't done it, I do know a 351 fits in there. The biggest issue is actually the deck height, which can result in interference with the hood.
You are very observant. Well done! I'm surprised it has taken this long for somebody to mention that. Yes, technically the timing is set by having the dots face each other. But in reality it doesn't matter because the cam turns 1/2 revolution for every rotation of the crank. So it can be timed either way. Makes no difference.
Here's the thing. Don't know if those are 165 or 185cc heads.. or what the cam spec is but suffice to say if its a trickflow cam its usually a 3/4 cam starting in the mid to high .400 lift range.. probably at least a 210 @ .050 duration and they use stages. even a mid .400 and 210 cam would make high 300s on that setup . For one thing, on a roller engine you could make that power with iron E7s / GT40s ported... so having heads that flow toward mid 200s on a roller setup with the right cam can go well over 400 horsepower. But sometimes thats the issue with just buying "kits" is they are not exactly always optimized or one company making the best of each thing. Having said that I'm sure this is a solid build that you can depend on. Only thing with carb vs multi port injection ( such as good old EFI on 5.0s ) is it doesn't have the low end power. Having said that there are two things to think about. 185 heads are good for screaming top end but have some lessened velocity compared to a 165cc. So arguably 165cc is good for trucks or for street. I know out of the gate you did mention a coyote... I've had lengthy talks on my channel about this hidden somewhere in my rambling videos but here's one thing to feel good about on your 307. It's 2 valves. so like most OHVs compared to OHC 4 valves it's absolutely going to make MORE low -mid range torque and power. I've looked at dyno charts ( it is actually hard to find a factory BHP dyno sheet of a coyote but I did at one point ) I compared a 2 valve 302 dyno at say high 300s hp ( so comparing against like a 411 hp coyote ) basically down low and mid range the 2 valve pushrod 5.0 was making on average of like 10 or so tq / hp above a coyote. Like at every 100 RPM it's holding that level above the OHC.. this is normal comparing any equal displacement OHV to OHC as the OHC has that much CFM and a lot less velocity. Until the OHC is getting into the mid 5000s and beyond where it pulls away on an OHV. I've complained about this for a long time but people never understanding the significance of powerband. This is exactly why people mostly never understand why old timers LOVE V8s and big blocks in particular... it was always about power band especially on the street. So you can consider your small block likely beyond a coyote, and can arguably rev as high in a roller setup. But lets say you had identical weight fox bodies in a road course with that OHV custom setup vs OHC gen 1 coyote... everything under 5000 rpm that pushrod mustang is going to have an advantage... the straight will be a different story but thats the significance of a powerband whose peaks may be like 30 horsepower away from one another. My 306 EFI project right now is based on porting all late 80s/90s castings but changing valvetrain to Lunati. Because it's for a van all of my porting work in the heads has been focused on maintaining good velocity and even keeping stock valves to make as much low -mid range as possible. I also have 3.73s and a 3000 stall in a built AOD but obviously I want as much torque per CID as possible for what the engine consists of. So don't feel like you're taking 2nd place to not doing a coyote.. I'm not a big carb person as I already started with EFI and had a tune burned for my CPU but other than economy and maybe BSFC you have the superior engine at least to a gen 1. But IMO for any street car? high velocity ( like a 2 valve ) in a 302 and getting the best possible torque powerband is the most realistic... street light to street light... cruising etc. yeah highway is fun I get it but its also when youre more likely to lose your license depending on how fast youre going. I had a supercoupe with 3.73s that was making probably well over 400 ft lbs so it wasnt spectacular on the highway but city style driving and realistic driving was a complete blast and would snap anyones neck back into the seat. 400 hp in a 70 Mustang? lighter era cars? like having a 500 hp engine almost in a modern muscle car or pony car. They got that bloated. I've seen 5.0 fox body guys with ported E7 setups similar to mine breaking the 11s ... thats basically a Hellcat ... But obviously in a 4800 pound custom van my goal was to basically run with or faster than a stock Raptor. Thats plenty for me!
Bro, you're a walking encyclopedia on this stuff. Amazing. Love your insights! I'm thrilled with the build. The heads are 165cc. I don't know what rear end it has in it, but it's definitely geared tall (2.79 maybe). It cruises the freeway at an idle. That needs to change, ideally along with a tranny swap (C4 to a T5). Thanks for the insights!
@@some-guys-garage no problem.. yeah 165 is good .. especially a 112 lsa cam .. so im sure it has good low to mid still. oh wow 270s yeah get 3.55 - 3.73s or 4.11 if you want to go nuts. then get a high stall converter in whatever transmission likely above a 2000. But even 3000 should be fine.. As long as youre not over shooting your torque peak. the trouble is at a certain level of torque its hard to find certain stall speeds. I would say most 2000 level converters are good maybe up to 400+ . you can have a stator and other custom combo to get close to ideal stall for your cam but I only have a 3000 because I had a blower for this engine so the peaks would have changed a little. Now I'm back to NA. Either way it should still be stalling on or just below my peak torque to help get this truck up and go lol .. I have a TCI street fighter but also got with anti ballooning plate ( kind of overkill with the balloon plate model now but at least the trans is ready for more power if I did ) .. Other thing is 2000 stalls are typically a 12 inch. 3000 are typically 10 inch. The weight difference when full is something like 20 lbs off of your rotating mass when going to 10 inch. But yes, your horsepower means almost nothing with the "wrong" gears/trans for what you want. Not sure of the gearing limitations in your trans but with that power and gearing your Mustang could do well over 150 mph haha. I ALMOST went to 4.11 in my van but itd probably be over 2500 at modern highway speeds. At the same time a high top conversion can be a little sketchy going too far over 70 mph on a windy day.. and I am NOT doing that rear again. But 3.73s ( depending on trans ratio ) are just enough on the highway ( at least in an AOD with 4 gears ) to live with fine. but people often arent focused on the rear and then when they do it feels to them like they gained 50 horsepower. I mean a high stall and gearing turns a build into feeling humdrum to like having an electric motor. You will say holy shit if you did those. A truly fast car. Then lockup vs non lockup where theres a clutch in the converter. On the AOD in 40 mph + its in direct drive so I dont have to worry about too much heat.. but even for city neighborhood driving under 40 I have a huge B and M cooler and an enlarged oil pan. If you have a non lockup ( its a bit better for racing ) that is where it can get hotter and you wouldnt really want a 3000 stall. Basically rule of thumb for non locker is... If your stall speed is ABOVE what your cruising RPM is on the highway its going to get hot. So for me I lucked out having a lock up transmission where I could drive for hours on the highway even under my 3000 stall and have no issues. So yes lock up ( if thats what you end up with ) has its advantages for street driving. But if you are a non locker? You would want something in the 2000 ( typical ford trans is around 1500-1600 high stall is considered 1900+ and obv varies on HP and gearing but call it a 2000. with 3.73s at 70 mph youd be just over 2000 on a non lockup so no trouble with heat. But if you want best of both worlds... a lock up with a higher stall ( the 10" ) is boss for the street.
@@some-guys-garage oh whoops ... I didn't pay attention to C4 to T5 LOL so most of what I just wrote in last reply was meaningless. BUT its something to consider ... I do love having gears ( its been a long time ) but keep in mind that C4 could be made to make a faster vehicle... and launching as well if thats what you're after. If you want more of the GT350 road course style experience yeah I too would take a manual. Esp if I had a Boss 302 or something obviously lol
It is, quite frankly, a perfect balance in my opinion. I love this engine! It's fun to drive, fun to tinker with, and I love the sound. Now if it just had a manual transmission and a limited slip diff. :) Thanks for tuning in!
Excellent observation and question. The jury is out on overbore causing engine heat issues. My understanding is that Ford designed the 302 to be bored up to .060 over without issue. Whether that's broadly accurate in practice or not, I couldn't say. However, I have not experienced any over heating.
Do you have a ballpark price for this build? I see engine with 400 hp around 6-13k on summit racing. I want to do this to my 302 in my 69 mustang but was wondering how much to budget for. Thank you.
I'm not sure I understand your question. It is a small block Ford that started out as a 302. Technically it's a 307 now, but that's splitting hairs. Yes - it's a 302.
Did this build 20yrs ago except .030 over same intake same heads. Bbk longtubes And a tfs1 this was not 400hp i think i made it to 400 by adding a 6psi weiand blower. Then it finally blew cracked the cylinder with detonation..😢
LOL. Truth told I never put it on the dyno, so I don't know for sure what the final hp is. What I do know is that without a locking diff it's a little too easy to break the backend loose. In other words, it's more than enough power for this car.
Ty for being patient and non condescending;
Thanks for tuning in. Thanks for the comment!
Odd that Trick Flow's cam gear did not have you line up the crank gear dot with the cam gear dot. That is a new one. It looks to be 180egrees out. I see someone else commented, but to eye ball accross the gear like that, you way better than me. Keep it up. !
You're very perceptive. Truth told, I didn't assemble it that way. When I went back and filmed, it was sitting that way so I ran with it. :) Since it doesn't matter which way you do it, I left it that way.
Very nice build.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. It's running great!
Back off rocker adjustment to 1 quarter turn and see if it makes more power ? Sometimes it does ! Hope this helps .
Thanks for the idea!
Yea ive got a 94 gt an we are in process of rebuilding it aluminum heads an all all the good stuff carb also i love it hopefully it goes well as yours did
Sounds fun! Good luck with it. And thanks for tuning in.
Really love a good 400 HP 302. It just seems perfect. Still streetable but still a real ripper.
I really like it. And I like it more every time I drive it!
302 Windsor is a killer might mouse.
Not gonna lie, I like this little 302 even more than I thought I would. It's my first small block Ford, and I'm very impressed with it!
Engine stands have a couple holes that allow the deck surface to be flat or on top. Makes pushing in the piston and guiding rod at same time a breeze. Do all the the ones on one side, then the other...Nice motor.
Thx for the tip!
You should know a lots of engine builders won't tell you the displacement, just the hp from a dyno run! You said the displacement just after I posted my comment. After watching your video, I believe you will get your hp.
It's running great. I never have put it on a dyno. Probably won't.
Sweet build but could you fit a 351w in there or the towers get in the way ?
Although I haven't done it, I do know a 351 fits in there. The biggest issue is actually the deck height, which can result in interference with the hood.
Is your timing 180 off thought dota face each other on 302
You are very observant. Well done! I'm surprised it has taken this long for somebody to mention that. Yes, technically the timing is set by having the dots face each other. But in reality it doesn't matter because the cam turns 1/2 revolution for every rotation of the crank. So it can be timed either way. Makes no difference.
That would be perfect in a Cobra replica.
Can't argue with you on that. :)
Here's the thing. Don't know if those are 165 or 185cc heads.. or what the cam spec is but suffice to say if its a trickflow cam its usually a 3/4 cam starting in the mid to high .400 lift range.. probably at least a 210 @ .050 duration and they use stages. even a mid .400 and 210 cam would make high 300s on that setup . For one thing, on a roller engine you could make that power with iron E7s / GT40s ported... so having heads that flow toward mid 200s on a roller setup with the right cam can go well over 400 horsepower. But sometimes thats the issue with just buying "kits" is they are not exactly always optimized or one company making the best of each thing. Having said that I'm sure this is a solid build that you can depend on. Only thing with carb vs multi port injection ( such as good old EFI on 5.0s ) is it doesn't have the low end power. Having said that there are two things to think about. 185 heads are good for screaming top end but have some lessened velocity compared to a 165cc. So arguably 165cc is good for trucks or for street. I know out of the gate you did mention a coyote... I've had lengthy talks on my channel about this hidden somewhere in my rambling videos but here's one thing to feel good about on your 307. It's 2 valves. so like most OHVs compared to OHC 4 valves it's absolutely going to make MORE low -mid range torque and power. I've looked at dyno charts ( it is actually hard to find a factory BHP dyno sheet of a coyote but I did at one point ) I compared a 2 valve 302 dyno at say high 300s hp ( so comparing against like a 411 hp coyote ) basically down low and mid range the 2 valve pushrod 5.0 was making on average of like 10 or so tq / hp above a coyote. Like at every 100 RPM it's holding that level above the OHC.. this is normal comparing any equal displacement OHV to OHC as the OHC has that much CFM and a lot less velocity. Until the OHC is getting into the mid 5000s and beyond where it pulls away on an OHV. I've complained about this for a long time but people never understanding the significance of powerband. This is exactly why people mostly never understand why old timers LOVE V8s and big blocks in particular... it was always about power band especially on the street. So you can consider your small block likely beyond a coyote, and can arguably rev as high in a roller setup. But lets say you had identical weight fox bodies in a road course with that OHV custom setup vs OHC gen 1 coyote... everything under 5000 rpm that pushrod mustang is going to have an advantage... the straight will be a different story but thats the significance of a powerband whose peaks may be like 30 horsepower away from one another. My 306 EFI project right now is based on porting all late 80s/90s castings but changing valvetrain to Lunati. Because it's for a van all of my porting work in the heads has been focused on maintaining good velocity and even keeping stock valves to make as much low -mid range as possible. I also have 3.73s and a 3000 stall in a built AOD but obviously I want as much torque per CID as possible for what the engine consists of. So don't feel like you're taking 2nd place to not doing a coyote.. I'm not a big carb person as I already started with EFI and had a tune burned for my CPU but other than economy and maybe BSFC you have the superior engine at least to a gen 1. But IMO for any street car? high velocity ( like a 2 valve ) in a 302 and getting the best possible torque powerband is the most realistic... street light to street light... cruising etc. yeah highway is fun I get it but its also when youre more likely to lose your license depending on how fast youre going. I had a supercoupe with 3.73s that was making probably well over 400 ft lbs so it wasnt spectacular on the highway but city style driving and realistic driving was a complete blast and would snap anyones neck back into the seat. 400 hp in a 70 Mustang? lighter era cars? like having a 500 hp engine almost in a modern muscle car or pony car. They got that bloated. I've seen 5.0 fox body guys with ported E7 setups similar to mine breaking the 11s ... thats basically a Hellcat ... But obviously in a 4800 pound custom van my goal was to basically run with or faster than a stock Raptor. Thats plenty for me!
Bro, you're a walking encyclopedia on this stuff. Amazing. Love your insights! I'm thrilled with the build. The heads are 165cc. I don't know what rear end it has in it, but it's definitely geared tall (2.79 maybe). It cruises the freeway at an idle. That needs to change, ideally along with a tranny swap (C4 to a T5). Thanks for the insights!
@@some-guys-garage no problem.. yeah 165 is good .. especially a 112 lsa cam .. so im sure it has good low to mid still. oh wow 270s yeah get 3.55 - 3.73s or 4.11 if you want to go nuts. then get a high stall converter in whatever transmission likely above a 2000. But even 3000 should be fine.. As long as youre not over shooting your torque peak. the trouble is at a certain level of torque its hard to find certain stall speeds. I would say most 2000 level converters are good maybe up to 400+ . you can have a stator and other custom combo to get close to ideal stall for your cam but I only have a 3000 because I had a blower for this engine so the peaks would have changed a little. Now I'm back to NA. Either way it should still be stalling on or just below my peak torque to help get this truck up and go lol .. I have a TCI street fighter but also got with anti ballooning plate ( kind of overkill with the balloon plate model now but at least the trans is ready for more power if I did ) .. Other thing is 2000 stalls are typically a 12 inch. 3000 are typically 10 inch. The weight difference when full is something like 20 lbs off of your rotating mass when going to 10 inch. But yes, your horsepower means almost nothing with the "wrong" gears/trans for what you want. Not sure of the gearing limitations in your trans but with that power and gearing your Mustang could do well over 150 mph haha. I ALMOST went to 4.11 in my van but itd probably be over 2500 at modern highway speeds. At the same time a high top conversion can be a little sketchy going too far over 70 mph on a windy day.. and I am NOT doing that rear again. But 3.73s ( depending on trans ratio ) are just enough on the highway ( at least in an AOD with 4 gears ) to live with fine. but people often arent focused on the rear and then when they do it feels to them like they gained 50 horsepower. I mean a high stall and gearing turns a build into feeling humdrum to like having an electric motor. You will say holy shit if you did those. A truly fast car. Then lockup vs non lockup where theres a clutch in the converter. On the AOD in 40 mph + its in direct drive so I dont have to worry about too much heat.. but even for city neighborhood driving under 40 I have a huge B and M cooler and an enlarged oil pan. If you have a non lockup ( its a bit better for racing ) that is where it can get hotter and you wouldnt really want a 3000 stall. Basically rule of thumb for non locker is... If your stall speed is ABOVE what your cruising RPM is on the highway its going to get hot. So for me I lucked out having a lock up transmission where I could drive for hours on the highway even under my 3000 stall and have no issues. So yes lock up ( if thats what you end up with ) has its advantages for street driving. But if you are a non locker? You would want something in the 2000 ( typical ford trans is around 1500-1600 high stall is considered 1900+ and obv varies on HP and gearing but call it a 2000. with 3.73s at 70 mph youd be just over 2000 on a non lockup so no trouble with heat. But if you want best of both worlds... a lock up with a higher stall ( the 10" ) is boss for the street.
@@some-guys-garage oh whoops ... I didn't pay attention to C4 to T5 LOL so most of what I just wrote in last reply was meaningless. BUT its something to consider ... I do love having gears ( its been a long time ) but keep in mind that C4 could be made to make a faster vehicle... and launching as well if thats what you're after. If you want more of the GT350 road course style experience yeah I too would take a manual. Esp if I had a Boss 302 or something obviously lol
What brand pistons? I’m building a .040 over but not see many options that are available 🤔
I actually don't know what brand these are. I bought the pistons, rings, and bearings from the shop that refurbished the block.
400 hp would be a great engine for that car... enough power but something you could still drive often.
It is, quite frankly, a perfect balance in my opinion. I love this engine! It's fun to drive, fun to tinker with, and I love the sound.
Now if it just had a manual transmission and a limited slip diff. :)
Thanks for tuning in!
Wouldn't .040 make her run hot?
Excellent observation and question. The jury is out on overbore causing engine heat issues. My understanding is that Ford designed the 302 to be bored up to .060 over without issue. Whether that's broadly accurate in practice or not, I couldn't say. However, I have not experienced any over heating.
How so?
Do you have a ballpark price for this build? I see engine with 400 hp around 6-13k on summit racing. I want to do this to my 302 in my 69 mustang but was wondering how much to budget for. Thank you.
I spent about 6k on this one.
Is it really a 302?
I'm not sure I understand your question. It is a small block Ford that started out as a 302. Technically it's a 307 now, but that's splitting hairs. Yes - it's a 302.
Did this build 20yrs ago except .030 over same intake same heads. Bbk longtubes And a tfs1 this was not 400hp i think i made it to 400 by adding a 6psi weiand blower. Then it finally blew cracked the cylinder with detonation..😢
LOL. Truth told I never put it on the dyno, so I don't know for sure what the final hp is. What I do know is that without a locking diff it's a little too easy to break the backend loose. In other words, it's more than enough power for this car.
Way to confuse people with the cam dot at 12 o'clock.....
Yeah. My bad. Sorry bout that. :)