Questions for the chinawall part, you used rtv, it's there a reason you didn't use the actual rubber gasket seals there? I'm still learning I've only ever rebuild motorcycles so sorry if I'm not in the loop
@@DavyJonesSN95 hi Jacob. Welcome to the channel. Thanks for the compliment. Nobody I know uses the rubber gasket. It just crushes out and introduces leaks, period. I don’t care if it’s vice grip garage or engine masters, they use rtv. Make sure you let it sit for at least 15 minutes before you out the manifold on and then only tighten the bolts a little. Wait another hour before your crank the bolts to spec. You’ll never have a leak that way. Also, like I do in the video, put a super thin layer on the engine and the manifold mating surfaces. It helps the bead grip. I don’t know why it works, it just does!
This was peaceful to watch. Something about watching engine rebuilds step by step helps me understand more about em and gets me relaxed. Plz make more sir. Currently looking at carberated cars to buy on Facebook
Great job. Tho I would suggest in the future not paying attention so much to torque settings on valve lash and more feel as no every engine is to speck . I may have missed the head install but to be sure to use sealant on the head bolts that go into the water jackets and that goes for the 2 bolts on the water pump as not doing so could result in a broken stud with future repairs. The timing cover only needs etc on the seems when it neeeys the oil pan gasket . Also in the future just get a ford Motorsport or racing timing set as they are cheap and eliminate the guess work as week as bolts from apr . Was a fun watch throughout
Thanks Jordan. Great advice all around. I did use sealant on the head through bolts . I have the engine running now that I’m almost done with the build and I have a nasty leak from the driver side valve cover. I’m thinking I need to ditch the cork gaskets
@@ayygYT yup, happens all the time. Was painting until 1am last night and then couldn’t sleep until 2:30. Got back in the garage at 6am for a session before work
I do allot of marine work and I’m building a 302 for my bronco. Typically I would never mix stainless with aluminum. Those stainless bolts on that aluminum housing will corrode very quickly.
I plan on doing the same thing with my 302 in my bronco, it’s needing a basic rebuild, rings, bearings, I wanna switch over to the aluminum intake as well to, I’ve got the cast iron intake 4 barrel intake on the engine now
Hello, how high to you plan on Rev this Engine? I have used cork gaskets on Intakes for 40+ year on 400 HP SBF's & never had a problem! Also if you use gasket sealer maker, you should use 3 all threads studs in 3 corners of the Intake to Guide the int. down onto the gasket maker. If the Engine is out, I port gasket match the Int. to the Heads. adds small amounts of extra HP. I'd paint the valve covers HT Alumin Engine paint to match the int.
When rebuilding an engine, is it necessary to check crank bearings with the plastic auge and do all that stuff? Id like to build my 302 in my 93 F150 but I’ve never rebuilt an engine before.
Hi Matt. Did you have any type of machining work done on your heads or block before reassembly? I have a 93 F150 5.0 and I’m planning on rebuilding it. It has about 260,xxx on it. I was just curious how much I need to do on this rebuild.
Hi Daniel, I can’t speak for Matt but you should do the research online or buy one of the printed manuals that covers all of the specific details involved with rebuilding your small block Ford. With that many miles on your engine, I assume that you plan on doing a complete rebuild. Skipping the basic machine work just to save money is risky at best and not checking the bearings for the proper oil clearance is just asking for trouble. Find a good automotive machine shop to do your block and heads. The block deck surface and heads could be warped from overheating. Both surfaces need to be flat from end to end to ensure proper head gasket sealing. The block surface also needs to be parallel with the crankshaft centerline so that all of the pistons are at the exact same height in their bores at top dead center. The cylinder walls are probably worn and will need to be bored and honed if using new pistons. If using the old pistons with new rings, the cylinders will need to be honed to restore the surface crosshatch pattern for oil retention and for the new rings to seal properly. The crankshaft needs to be checked for straightness and the bearing surfaces inspected for excessive wear which would require them to be resized and fitted with oversized bearings. If the pistons or any components in the rotating assembly are replaced, the whole assembly will need to be rebalanced by the machine shop. With so many variables possible, the bearing clearances need to be checked during assembly. The plastigage method works but I prefer the accuracy of precision micrometers and bore gauges. With the heads having so many miles on them the springs and probably weak and should be replaced. If the valves are good enough to be reused, they should be reground along with the valve seats in the heads for a good seal. These are just a few of the things that can be done. There are a lot more. Everyone has their own preferences when it comes to engine building. Blueprinting isn’t required but it’s the best way when performance and longevity are part of the plan. Good luck with your project 🏁.
Great video. I'm overhauling the 302 engine of my car, however the camshaft has several wear marks. I search a new camshaft, however i found to brands with a good price that werr Melling and enginetech. Are you know if this brands are trust?
There will always be wear marks on a cam. If they aren't rough to the touch, I'm not 100% sure yo uneed to change it. If you change the cam you need to change the lifters too. If yo uneed a new cam, I feel like Comp cams is probably a good option. You can call them and thell them what you want and they'll spec a cam for you. Just don't go too aggressive with it becuase the more HP the cam makes the less fun the car is to cruise around.
Do you have to use the explorer timing set with the explorer front dress or could you also use a true roller timing set from a 302 mustang (e.g., a Cloyes 9-1138)?
Hmmmmmmmm. If I were betting, I'd bet the mustang had the same crank dimensions so it should work but I'm not enough of a 302 guru to say it with any confidence.
@@MattsGarage Yes, cranks dimensions are same. Wasn't sure if the timing cover (size) on the explorer made a difference if using the mustang timing set. Why did you opt to use the explorer timing set/chain? Thanks!
@@MattsGarage I do realize this was a much longer process than represented. Just being helpful. Another great video, thanks Matt. Started watching your channel on the Brown Bronco build, great information and learned a lot.
Wondering if I need to adjust my valves I hear a light tappin around driver side. N if I do can I do it by just removing spark plugs n checkin the lifter making sure it’s at the bottom ? If anyone can help I’d appreciate it thank u for your time reading this. 🤞☝️🫡
Not sure why you'd need to pull the spark plug. The lifters follow an order so you can just watch them go up and then down. It's kind of obvious when they are closed. You are sure it's not an exhaust leak right?
@@MattsGarage I only have headers on atm could that be the reason for hard taping coming from valve cover? Also for back firing when warmed up ? I just had it rebuild don’t have exhaust system hooked.
@@MattsGarage I’m the wrong guy to ask lmao. I see a bunch of people saying you HAVE TO USE ARP rod bolts, but I don’t subscribe to that. There’s a lot of guys who say you can use stock as well
@@benwhitting9099They aren't torque to yield so my instinct says it should work but then again I have a problem with this engine so I'm also probably not the guy to ask :-).
An expert would no why. I'm just a dummy with a camera! Is there a small burr on them that is catching? I don't see why hitting it lightly with a fine machinist stone to true up the contact surface would harm anything.
9:06 - Hey, Mark VII! wasn't expecting to hear my car lol
Put some fuel hose on your rod bolts so they don't mark the crank. Also helps guide the rod in.
Really enjoyed this Matt! Agree, make it look so easy!
Watching this before I rebuild my mustang motor, thanks for the great video man!
Questions for the chinawall part, you used rtv, it's there a reason you didn't use the actual rubber gasket seals there? I'm still learning I've only ever rebuild motorcycles so sorry if I'm not in the loop
@@DavyJonesSN95 hi Jacob. Welcome to the channel. Thanks for the compliment. Nobody I know uses the rubber gasket. It just crushes out and introduces leaks, period. I don’t care if it’s vice grip garage or engine masters, they use rtv. Make sure you let it sit for at least 15 minutes before you out the manifold on and then only tighten the bolts a little. Wait another hour before your crank the bolts to spec. You’ll never have a leak that way. Also, like I do in the video, put a super thin layer on the engine and the manifold mating surfaces. It helps the bead grip. I don’t know why it works, it just does!
@@MattsGarage alright cool good to know, thank you I appreciate the insight!
This was peaceful to watch. Something about watching engine rebuilds step by step helps me understand more about em and gets me relaxed. Plz make more sir. Currently looking at carberated cars to buy on Facebook
don't ever turn a crank before bolting the mains.. good way to score the crank
Great job. Tho I would suggest in the future not paying attention so much to torque settings on valve lash and more feel as no every engine is to speck . I may have missed the head install but to be sure to use sealant on the head bolts that go into the water jackets and that goes for the 2 bolts on the water pump as not doing so could result in a broken stud with future repairs. The timing cover only needs etc on the seems when it neeeys the oil pan gasket . Also in the future just get a ford Motorsport or racing timing set as they are cheap and eliminate the guess work as week as bolts from apr . Was a fun watch throughout
Thanks Jordan. Great advice all around. I did use sealant on the head through bolts . I have the engine running now that I’m almost done with the build and I have a nasty leak from the driver side valve cover. I’m thinking I need to ditch the cork gaskets
when Matt said it's 3am btw I really felt that
@@ayygYT yup, happens all the time. Was painting until 1am last night and then couldn’t sleep until 2:30. Got back in the garage at 6am for a session before work
I do allot of marine work and I’m building a 302 for my bronco. Typically I would never mix stainless with aluminum. Those stainless bolts on that aluminum housing will corrode very quickly.
Cooper never seize liberal coat wipe off the access
You make it look so easy........
I remember PAW!
I plan on doing the same thing with my 302 in my bronco, it’s needing a basic rebuild, rings, bearings, I wanna switch over to the aluminum intake as well to, I’ve got the cast iron intake 4 barrel intake on the engine now
Ill say this, just tore my 88 mustang engine apart, nearly 260k miles i think i could've gotten by with just heads, my bearings didn't look bad at all
Hello, how high to you plan on Rev this Engine? I have used cork gaskets on Intakes for 40+ year on 400 HP SBF's & never had a problem! Also if you use gasket sealer maker, you should use 3 all threads studs in 3 corners of the Intake to Guide the int. down onto the gasket maker. If the Engine is out, I port gasket match the Int. to the Heads. adds small amounts of extra HP. I'd paint the valve covers HT Alumin Engine paint to match the int.
Great video ! My '68 302 doesn't have roller lifters. What year motor?
Mine is a 90 I think. But don’t take my advice, I just did a road trip and the motor is consuming oil so I screwed something up
Same issue with the oil pump shaft. In fact I do not think I have ever installed correctly the first time. 😂
Is it true that you are mortske’s long lost brother?
🤣
Great video.
Haha! I’d never heard of him but just looked him up.
@@MattsGarage you should give him a watch. He’s pretty good.
When rebuilding an engine, is it necessary to check crank bearings with the plastic auge and do all that stuff? Id like to build my 302 in my 93 F150 but I’ve never rebuilt an engine before.
You are supposed to. I didn’t 😂
@@MattsGarage haha okay. I’m excited to see the complete build. Keep up the good work.
Hi Matt. Did you have any type of machining work done on your heads or block before reassembly? I have a 93 F150 5.0 and I’m planning on rebuilding it. It has about 260,xxx on it. I was just curious how much I need to do on this rebuild.
Hi Daniel, I can’t speak for Matt but you should do the research online or buy one of the printed manuals that covers all of the specific details involved with rebuilding your small block Ford.
With that many miles on your engine, I assume that you plan on doing a complete rebuild. Skipping the basic machine work just to save money is risky at best and not checking the bearings for the proper oil clearance is just asking for trouble.
Find a good automotive machine shop to do your block and heads. The block deck surface and heads could be warped from overheating. Both surfaces need to be flat from end to end to ensure proper head gasket sealing. The block surface also needs to be parallel with the crankshaft centerline so that all of the pistons are at the exact same height in their bores at top dead center. The cylinder walls are probably worn and will need to be bored and honed if using new pistons. If using the old pistons with new rings, the cylinders will need to be honed to restore the surface crosshatch pattern for oil retention and for the new rings to seal properly.
The crankshaft needs to be checked for straightness and the bearing surfaces inspected for excessive wear which would require them to be resized and fitted with oversized bearings. If the pistons or any components in the rotating assembly are replaced, the whole assembly will need to be rebalanced by the machine shop. With so many variables possible, the bearing clearances need to be checked during assembly. The plastigage method works but I prefer the accuracy of precision micrometers and bore gauges.
With the heads having so many miles on them the springs and probably weak and should be replaced. If the valves are good enough to be reused, they should be reground along with the valve seats in the heads for a good seal.
These are just a few of the things that can be done. There are a lot more. Everyone has their own preferences when it comes to engine building. Blueprinting isn’t required but it’s the best way when performance and longevity are part of the plan.
Good luck with your project 🏁.
I like those valve covers. 👍
Great video. I'm overhauling the 302 engine of my car, however the camshaft has several wear marks. I search a new camshaft, however i found to brands with a good price that werr Melling and enginetech. Are you know if this brands are trust?
There will always be wear marks on a cam. If they aren't rough to the touch, I'm not 100% sure yo uneed to change it. If you change the cam you need to change the lifters too. If yo uneed a new cam, I feel like Comp cams is probably a good option. You can call them and thell them what you want and they'll spec a cam for you. Just don't go too aggressive with it becuase the more HP the cam makes the less fun the car is to cruise around.
@@MattsGarage Ok. Thanks for your feedback.
Lol how crazy with the 20 tooth sprocket
Yeah, bananas. What the heck? How does that happen?
Where did you find the torque spec info? I haven't been able to find anything
Google probably. I don’t remember.
Do you have to use the explorer timing set with the explorer front dress or could you also use a true roller timing set from a 302 mustang (e.g., a Cloyes 9-1138)?
Hmmmmmmmm. If I were betting, I'd bet the mustang had the same crank dimensions so it should work but I'm not enough of a 302 guru to say it with any confidence.
@@MattsGarage Yes, cranks dimensions are same. Wasn't sure if the timing cover (size) on the explorer made a difference if using the mustang timing set. Why did you opt to use the explorer timing set/chain? Thanks!
@@darrelvandies2523 Out of habit. I try to keep the facotry stuff matched up as much as I can. Less to worry about!
What kit did you use for the head and cam?
What do you mean? They are the stock head and cam.
Great video, keep them coming.
Didn’t see you put lube on the bearings on the main caps.
Thanks. I might have cut it but I definitely did.
I cut a lot. This was 4.5 hours of footage.
@@MattsGarage
I do realize this was a much longer process than represented. Just being helpful. Another great video, thanks Matt. Started watching your channel on the Brown Bronco build, great information and learned a lot.
@@BroncoDriver77 I appreciate you looking out. I wonder what I would do if I had forgotten!
Wondering if I need to adjust my valves I hear a light tappin around driver side. N if I do can I do it by just removing spark plugs n checkin the lifter making sure it’s at the bottom ? If anyone can help I’d appreciate it thank u for your time reading this. 🤞☝️🫡
Not sure why you'd need to pull the spark plug. The lifters follow an order so you can just watch them go up and then down. It's kind of obvious when they are closed. You are sure it's not an exhaust leak right?
@@MattsGarage I only have headers on atm could that be the reason for hard taping coming from valve cover? Also for back firing when warmed up ? I just had it rebuild don’t have exhaust system hooked.
Do you have to be on compression stroke?
For what? To set the distributor? Yes
@@MattsGarage for the valve lash
Oh for that no, you just need the valve fully closed. Any stroke is ok @@truexkev2737
@@MattsGarage thank you very much ☝️
Wait so you can just throw a cam in like that??! That easy?!!
What do you mean? The hardest part is taking all the accessories off the front of the engine. Actually installing the cam is very simple.
Did you use stock rod bolts/nuts?
@@benwhitting9099 I did. Is that a mistake? Honest question.
@@MattsGarage I’m the wrong guy to ask lmao. I see a bunch of people saying you HAVE TO USE ARP rod bolts, but I don’t subscribe to that. There’s a lot of guys who say you can use stock as well
@@benwhitting9099They aren't torque to yield so my instinct says it should work but then again I have a problem with this engine so I'm also probably not the guy to ask :-).
@@MattsGarage what is the issue you’re having?
torque specs for the valve rockers?
There is no torque spec. There is a lash-setting procedure. I believe I cover it in another video but you tube search “302 valve adjustment”
@@MattsGarageoh shit i commented before fully watch I g the vid😭
My dogbones - 2 wanna creep up with lifter for some reason
An expert would no why. I'm just a dummy with a camera! Is there a small burr on them that is catching? I don't see why hitting it lightly with a fine machinist stone to true up the contact surface would harm anything.
Torquelation
😅
He needs to work with No power nation this build will make NO POWER EVER.
Exactly!
Goes on tha,,,,,,,uh😂😢