Is the fuel pressure causing the running issues on my 2005 R53 Mini Cooper S??
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- I've bought a 2005 R53 Mini Cooper S from Copart with the description stating it had a undiagnosed noise from the engine bay. After getting the car, I quickly discovered a very strange noise on lift off and a lack of power. After a bit of research, its pointing towards the timing being out, so I previously changed the timing chain, serviced the supercharger, replaced various gaskets, removed the catalytic converter and replaced the fuel pressure regulator vacuum pipe. But none of these fixed the issue. So, having thought about it a bit further during the recent rainy days (or weeks!), I think the issue might be down to fuel pressure. Could too much pressure or too little fuel pressure in the fuel rail be causing the problem...so I bought a gauge to check the rail presssure.
Check the supercharger bypass valve. Very common and displays the symptoms you’re experiencing. It’s a simple check, there are UA-cam videos. In terms of fuelling, the fuel filter is worthwhile changing - they’re rarely changed on these, you may be amazed at the state when it comes out.
Where can i get that one tool for pressure?What is the name of that tool?
@@NikolaNikolic-xo7uf it’s a fuel pressure gauge. I bought it off Amazon in the uk. amzn.eu/d/0gJoqxl8
😂That's the overrun pops that they all do... stop throwing the parts cannon at it... it's not broken..
I know they are tuned from factory to have a slight pop, but not to this extent. A mates brother has basically the same R53 (age, spec etc) and his doesn’t do it. Plus the hesitation it has isn’t normal. It’s hard to explain or get across on video exactly what it is doing and the sound it’s making
@@olliesgarageperhaps you could try the ECU from your brothers mates mini?
@@kevinmills5293 I have thought about doing that, but from my understanding, I would need to change the immobiliser unit and key etc for it to work. Can get a complete ecu, immobiliser unit, keys etc off eBay fairly cheaply, so might be something I try soon
To be honest it sounds normal - However there is a difference between pre and post facelift cars - The Facelift cars are a lot more pop and bangy. Not sure if you have checked the injector seals as they are quite common to be worn.
Just seen you have replaced the small vacuum hose from regulator to the inlet manifold so that’s one thing off the list. And its worth checking the spark plug type - If I’ve had a car that’s hesitating a bit and everything else seems fine, I’ve used a copper core plug (for example Bosch FR5 plugs) and that’s helped running.
Can’t replace just the ECU, As you have said you will need the EWS module and Key as a minimum.
I agree. Also from watching a previous video I think the car has a decat on it which will make it pop and bang loads more.
Have you checked the supercharger bypass, I believe a spring inside can become week causing a stutter when accelerating. I know a ppl change them for the rooster ones.
did you think about a faulty fuel pump? maybe your pump just isnt able to create the right fuel pressure anymore
I work on these mini's now for 15 years and they all sound different, yours really doesn't sound that bad thrust me on this 😉 The yo-yo effect/ strange feeling around 2500-3000 rpm usually is the bypass valve. Although the 2004 and earlier have more issues with it, i've seen a lot of facelifts with broken bypass valves 2. Its an easy job to take off and inspect, max 30 minutes to take off, inspect and put back. (The bypass valve issues can cause differences in the sound depending on its behavior. Because when you lift off it should open immediately and the boost drops. if the boost doesn't drop you have more air going through making more of this noise. On the other side, if its always leaking (most common) the ecu will adjust the fuel ratio and when it sometimes does close properly you have to much fuel going in and possibly going trhough the exhaust.)
1 thing i noticed on your previous video is the cat. I haven't seen one like yours on a facelift model before, it does not look like an original one the facelift always had a 2 stage cat from the factory (Although i have to say i only work on LHD ones) This might certainly cause a different 'popping sound'.
Thanks for the info! I did check the bypass valve when I serviced the supercharger and from my understanding it was ok, but I will have another look.
Another thought for you to consider. Really hot exhaust manifold, pops on over run and poor running under load might indicate it is running lean. If it were rich (as you were thinking in the video) it would run quite cool. Red hot exhaust is either really lean, retarded ignition or burnt exhaust valves. It if has been running lean for a long time (becuase the pressure pipe to the fuel pressure reg was off), it might have burned or melted something.
Next steps for me would be 1) check compression and then 2) check timing. Best of luck.
P.s. I have an '06 R53 and whilst its a fab car, it has cost me a few quid in sorting out gremlins!
Thank you for your comment, I’ll look into a compression test as I’ve already changed the timing chain etc in a previous video 👍
@@olliesgarage - Sorry by timing I meant ignition timing rather than cam timing. Its also worth mentioning that they will all pop and bang a bit on over run. Its quite tricky to hear in the videos, but the popping on over run might well be 'normal'. The face lift cars (later 2004 to 2006) pop more than the pre face lift cars IIRC. Now you have done this work, have you taken it for a drive to see if it is still lacking power? You could get a cheap bluetooth OBDII dongle and check things like boost pressure in real time, along with checking that the lambdas are not giving stupid readings? £10 on amazon might be money well spent (might not of course) :)
Could be broken spring in bypass valve... that causes jerky running and loss of power
Checked the bypass valve when I removed it to service the supercharger and all seemed fine
Change your fuel filter - I bet it's never been done. Then what you want to do is check your fuel pressure rises with boost pressure - maybe and extension for you gauge and tuck it under a wiper blade. It's worth knowing there's an in tank regulator that controls the line pressure and then the rail regulator steps it down for the injectors.
One useful mod that eliminates the yo-yo issue is to connect your supercharger by-pass vac line to the left hand side vac connection on the intake manifold (same as fuel regulator).
Did you try to replace the fuel regulator on the injectors rail? I'm chasing a similar issue
Good luck 🍀 hoping for good news on next vid 🙏 for the sake of your patience alone 🙂
I cant tell due to the audio quality but its only doing it as you lift off.
Ever thought it could an engine shock? As you lift off and the revs drop engine want to shake as torque tries a twisting motion. Check the rear gearbox shock mount and see if there is any play in it.
Let me know. I know these minis like the back of my hand.
Only seems to make the noise on lift off, which makes me think it’s fuel related, hence why I checked pressure. I might be wrong, but thinking it might be over fuelling so combustion of un burnt fuel is taking place in the manifold. When driving it, it feels like it suddenly holds back for a few seconds, then goes back to normal and then holds back again. Changes quickly, just like someone is flicking a switch!
@olliesgarage get a fresh set of injectors. Maybe 1 is leaking. 2nd hand sets are cheap.
See if it changes in anyway at all.
@@MonkeyCarrots that’s on the lines of what I’m thinking it could be. My next step is to remove them and test them to see if they spray correctly etc. Haven’t had the chance to look at it recently due to being busy at work, broke some fingers playing football with my kids and been on holiday! Will get there though!!
@@olliesgarage will look forward to seeing the test if you film it.
I have a very odd issue with my R53. Any way I could ask you questions?
when running it should be around 3 bar at idle up to 4.5 bar at full boost. 4.5 is the max the pump can do. you need to check it when it is running. the pressure regulator is dynamic (vacuum and boost referenced) and you wont get a proper reading with just the key on.
you can replace the fuel filter in the tank under the back seat but your pump looks fine.
Just tore my r53 down to do the clutch and 2K worth of other worn items I found along the way. I was unhappy with how slugish it was and then I found the regulator vacuum line was disconnected though I had not touched that area of the engine. after re-connection the power was there again.
without the regulator as boost comes on you will inject less and less fuel as the fuel pressure does not increase (due to the regulator adjusting) and the injectors pressure is opposed but the positive pressure in the manifold.
check this vid out too
ua-cam.com/video/PzyabysqwzE/v-deo.html
also check your bypass valve vacuum line for that weird noise. it sounds similar to turbo surge without a blow off valve. if the vac line on the bypass valve isnt connected it wont open as its supposed to when you let off the gas suddenly and the pressure has to bleed out through the engine.