The more you show of this, the more I want to do that 440 I told you about. That clearance scares the crap out of me enough to say that were it mine I'd be going the route danlynch3993 did and girdling it with studs. You'd be absolutely shocked how much these blocks flex and twist when under heavy load. I've tried to call that fact out a few times and people mock the hell out of me for it until they do their own diligence and see for themselves. Would help with that pickup tube mount too. On that note I encourage going that extra inch and just welding a tab onto the windage tray ("its harder to put material back than to take it off" thing). No matter what though, this is definitely scratching my itch for want-to-know with the stroker kits. Thank you for doing these!
Thanks brother. That tab has bothered quite a few. If I can get my tig welder fired up, I will do just that. This engine will have a nice hydraulic roller, that will be done around 6,000 rpm. By that point, it will have made over 600 foot pounds of torque and 550+ horsepower. It’s going in an 80’s d100 for a friend. The guys I’ve talked to that really run their strokers, don’t run hurdles until their over 650-700hp. The added clamp of the arp bolts will be help on the crank. I agree, the caps can walk.
@@JustMoparJoe I think the 600+ mark is what everyone is calling standard. Im not experienced at all with boosted RB but Ive been told its wise to girdle blown/turbo'ed at 500+. I think you're being conservative with what your combination of parts can do! And in a pickup no less! Im crossing my fingers I know which one too. Its gonna be a rubber shredding monster!!!
Nice inspection walk through Joe. Thanks for mentioning thr shop. I am excited to see the block set up in the Comec. Thanks for sharing the process. Take care, Ed.
Hi Joe. Dont forget to add the pan and tray gaskets to the measurements. Other wise you will end up with more clearence than your expecting. Also you can insert a feeler gages in the cylinder to hold the piston from rocking. Another great show.
Great video Joe, it's the little things that will bite you when building an engine! Your showing how it's done correctly and paying attention to the details.
Hi Joe. I have started to look around for a low mile B-body, probably a Cordoba -they are out there and currently very reasonable compared to some of the Dodge/Plymouth cars. I reckon an ideal engine for a car like that would be a stroker similar to this build, so this set of videos is very interesting. I wouldn't really want to compromise the car's smoothness or quietness, so I think that I would build it for max torque at about 2800-3200 RPM and a redline of about 5300-5500 RPM, looking for 475-500 HP. I think with a 2500 stall converter and a 3.23 gear that would be a really fun car.
That would be awesome Gavin, but why does it need to be a stroker? I just put out the first dyno video for my stock stroke 400, with .030 pistons, edelbrock heads, and performer rpm intake. The engine made 520 foot pounds of torque and 510 horsepower. It’s 10.1/1 and very pump gas friendly. Check out the tunnel ram dyno video today. It makes even better numbers!
@@JustMoparJoe I hear you Joe, and if I do latch onto a sub 20 (less than 20k miles, less than $20k cost) car with a factory 400 engine it would be pretty tempting to do a 400 based build. Pump gas friendly is a must (pump premium is ok), but so is 19 inHg of vacuum at idle (more or less) for power brakes and other accessories. How much vacuum does your 400 develop? I want it to have a smooth idle. Choppy idling cars sound great but not for this one. In fact I want the car to be like it would have if the engineers weren't limited by emissions and CAFE, or in other words like it was a '65 instead of a '75, except even more torque for fun purposes. I think a stroker, either 400 or 440 based makes it easier to do. The key to all of this will be cam selection, and I reckon more displacement allows a bigger cam without compromising vacuum. Don't get me wrong, I think the 400 build was great and you are getting excellent numbers out of it, but it is for a drag car. I have often wondered how well a 400 built like a 383 magnum/roadrunner engine would have performed if it had been introduced in say 1969 instead of '72, and your 400 build sort of answers that. I am eagerly awaiting the tunnel ram power numbers as well as those of the Holley Street Dominator.
I had to make the cut for the bracket. No bore scope for me. I used silly putty and kept checking. Just remembered after the first test I put tape on the pickup tube screen cause it’s a pain to get the putty out of it LOL
Great build video Joe, excellent information and well presented. This should provide good low to mid range torque. Look forward to following all the way to the run stand. Stay safe.
Great info. I have a 77 and 78 440 that I plan to build at some point in the future. I haven't figured out exactly what I want to do to build them. I'm new to engine building. Thus far, I only have a mostly stock 360 magnum under my belt.
' Rustenholtz I am building a 505 440 source 440 with aluminum heads and intake with dual 650 avs edelbrock carburetors, The heads are 325cc with 2.200 intake valves and 1.88 exhaust. I have .006 thousands deck clearance. I am wondering how much compression I can run on pump gas? right now it figures out to 10.8 to 1.
From my understanding, you’re at the typical maximum safe limit of premium fuel. Of course it depends on the dynamic compression ratio, based on your cam specs. Check online for a calculator. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Doug. 440 source recommends .006. I will go over that in a future video. This block is .0065. Using total seal file to fit. I think they’re perfect for this.
Hi Joe, Another great video. I haven't seen the following video but I was wondering that I am running hydraulic flat tappet lifters on my stroked 440 which is 4.350 bore and 4.250 stroke making it a 505. Do you think the cam and lifters will get enough oil with that same windage tray? Or should I leave itr off? Have a great day.
I have the 543 kit from 440 source, very Lil clearencing I had to do by the internal oil pickup housing, but I had to use a external oil pump.mine has a Girdle with studs and ran into a problem with the mildon 7 QT pan was sloped at the back and hit the nuts..
Very nice approach to this stroker Joe. What I like is you look at everything before you go to the next step. The later smog blocks of the 70s are supposed to be stronger, better casting reinforcement. Is this engine for another car of yours (Challenger) or are you building this for someone else?
Another great video, Joe.. I have to say though, I am not crazy about that bracket going under the main bolt... I would go another direction and weld a strap from one side to the other on the windage tray to get a very sturdy mount and then probably weld a bolt head to that strap and then use the 90* bracket with loktite on the bolts/nuts. Also wondering how lucky you will get with the pick up getting tight in the block in a good place!! Also, zero deck is as far as I would ever go. Who knows what the next build will be, but taking it lower typically means more issues than anyone wants... I totally get it. I'd want at least 11 to 1 w/aluminum heads.. You can still run pump gas at this point... Oh yeah, I am wondering what K-member you are using that allows that rear sump??? Maybe you've covered it before and i am losing it.. I am getting old!!!! ;)
Steve, I’m surprised you didn’t spot that pan. It’s for a truck. This one is going in a friends 80’s d100. We will shoot for 10.5-10.7. Thanks for the support!
@@JustMoparJoe Jesus, I guess I have too much going on in my head.. I thought this was going into the Cuda!! That's why I was interested in the K-member.. I do know the rear sump is common for trucks, but again, I thought this was going into your Cuda.. See what happens when you get old!! ;)
Hey Joe I like Summits windage tray that is made out of nylon and has built-in gaskets. They also make one for a stroker which is fairly inexpensive and is like a modern Hemi oil pan gasket. being that is plastic and is easy to cut
I’m not sure what you’re asking. But I can try. I built a 508 and a 512 on the channel. Both blocks were decked by Rick seeman. I believe the 512 was only decked .002-.003”. We wanted the 508 to gain some compression, so it ended up shaved a bit more.
@@MrDeeregreen I don’t think the deck grows after assembly or anything. The blocks have been “seasoned” for the last 50 years in and out of running vehicles. I believe they could have moved or warped after 1,000’s of heat cycles, after the factory. But once machined now, they are pretty well where they will be. If a block needs rebuilt after a while, typically the cylinders can get a simple rehone and send it.
Joe, on your Barracuda. does the car have Original frame rails? and it would be nice to see under car look of how the ladder bar set up is. After you gave a peak from side view before i find it interesting to see a A-Body with Ladder Bars set up.
Check with Ed , I was always told by old timers that that distance will diminish by 20%. I always wanted to know if that was a old wise tale or not. I always followed it to be true.
I saw an interesting deal about turning a stock B-RB block into a cross bolt main block, the article seems to think it's necessary in over 700hp, what are your thoughts on that
That’s very interesting. I’ve heard that where the bolts are added, is a weak spot in the traditional casting. Most of the big horse guys I know are filling their blocks and adding stud girdles. Any more than that, you need an aftermarket block. We actually have a racecar that’s never been shown on the channel with the mega block.
Joe, The "T" on the pad is the engine plant. Which is Trenton, Mi. in this case.
Thank you, Mr. Frank! I had always wondered.
The more you show of this, the more I want to do that 440 I told you about. That clearance scares the crap out of me enough to say that were it mine I'd be going the route danlynch3993 did and girdling it with studs. You'd be absolutely shocked how much these blocks flex and twist when under heavy load. I've tried to call that fact out a few times and people mock the hell out of me for it until they do their own diligence and see for themselves. Would help with that pickup tube mount too. On that note I encourage going that extra inch and just welding a tab onto the windage tray ("its harder to put material back than to take it off" thing).
No matter what though, this is definitely scratching my itch for want-to-know with the stroker kits. Thank you for doing these!
Thanks brother. That tab has bothered quite a few. If I can get my tig welder fired up, I will do just that. This engine will have a nice hydraulic roller, that will be done around 6,000 rpm. By that point, it will have made over 600 foot pounds of torque and 550+ horsepower. It’s going in an 80’s d100 for a friend. The guys I’ve talked to that really run their strokers, don’t run hurdles until their over 650-700hp. The added clamp of the arp bolts will be help on the crank. I agree, the caps can walk.
@@JustMoparJoe I think the 600+ mark is what everyone is calling standard. Im not experienced at all with boosted RB but Ive been told its wise to girdle blown/turbo'ed at 500+. I think you're being conservative with what your combination of parts can do! And in a pickup no less! Im crossing my fingers I know which one too. Its gonna be a rubber shredding monster!!!
Wow! Man that's some pile of work.Some people don't realize how much work actually goes into it all! Nice 👌
Thank you! The hard work pays off!
Nice inspection walk through Joe.
Thanks for mentioning thr shop.
I am excited to see the block set up in the Comec.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Take care, Ed.
You bet! Thanks for the help and support on this one. I met you with a big block stroker in the shop.
Good info Joe. Between You and Ed nothing gets overlooked. Nice work.
Thanks brother!
Excellent content as always Brother
Thanks brother. This one is going in an 80’s D100 truck. It will be fun!
@@JustMoparJoe
I had a Beautiful 78
Thanks Joe!
You bet! I appreciate your insight. I learn new things all the time. Especially from those who have been there before.
going to be a torque monster !!!
Absolutely! Thanks Tim!
Hi Joe. Dont forget to add the pan and tray gaskets to the measurements. Other wise you will end up with more clearence than your expecting. Also you can insert a feeler gages in the cylinder to hold the piston from rocking. Another great show.
Good tip! Thanks for the support
Great video joe love the tech
Thanks brother
I’m happy to see all the clearances are good. The windage tray looks nice.
Thanks Jonny! I appreciate your insight
Another informative video . There’s so much that I don’t know but I’m very interested in learning . You’re a good teacher !
Thanks Terry! Engine building is fun. You never know what you’re going to get, and if you don’t check, you may get a bad surprise.
This is going to be a fun build.
Thanks Mike!
Getting ready to start assembling my 505....cant wait!
Good luck! 👍🏼
Great video Joe, it's the little things that will bite you when building an engine! Your showing how it's done correctly and paying attention to the details.
Thank you!Got a few crucial changes coming. Thanks for watching.
The attention to detail is outstanding 😉😉
Thanks Shane! Hope y’all are staying warm and dry
That's good news that no clearancing required on the block. Good video 😌 Joe
Thanks brother. Smooth sailing so far!
Your lucky to get to work with Ed! 🥺
Very! He helps me all the time!
Great attention to detail on this build.😎
Thanks brother! The devil is in the details
@@JustMoparJoe definitely
Can't wait to see the rest! Some day I'll learn how to build one! I'll just re-watch your videos! 😁
That makes two of us, Big Mike 😂
I’ve never built a stroker engine. Very interesting build.
Thanks Garry! This thing will make good power and be a torque monster!
That thing is going to make great power!
Thanks brother
Hi Joe. I have started to look around for a low mile B-body, probably a Cordoba -they are out there and currently very reasonable compared to some of the Dodge/Plymouth cars. I reckon an ideal engine for a car like that would be a stroker similar to this build, so this set of videos is very interesting. I wouldn't really want to compromise the car's smoothness or quietness, so I think that I would build it for max torque at about 2800-3200 RPM and a redline of about 5300-5500 RPM, looking for 475-500 HP. I think with a 2500 stall converter and a 3.23 gear that would be a really fun car.
That would be awesome Gavin, but why does it need to be a stroker? I just put out the first dyno video for my stock stroke 400, with .030 pistons, edelbrock heads, and performer rpm intake. The engine made 520 foot pounds of torque and 510 horsepower. It’s 10.1/1 and very pump gas friendly. Check out the tunnel ram dyno video today. It makes even better numbers!
@@JustMoparJoe I hear you Joe, and if I do latch onto a sub 20 (less than 20k miles, less than $20k cost) car with a factory 400 engine it would be pretty tempting to do a 400 based build. Pump gas friendly is a must (pump premium is ok), but so is 19 inHg of vacuum at idle (more or less) for power brakes and other accessories. How much vacuum does your 400 develop? I want it to have a smooth idle. Choppy idling cars sound great but not for this one. In fact I want the car to be like it would have if the engineers weren't limited by emissions and CAFE, or in other words like it was a '65 instead of a '75, except even more torque for fun purposes. I think a stroker, either 400 or 440 based makes it easier to do. The key to all of this will be cam selection, and I reckon more displacement allows a bigger cam without compromising vacuum.
Don't get me wrong, I think the 400 build was great and you are getting excellent numbers out of it, but it is for a drag car. I have often wondered how well a 400 built like a 383 magnum/roadrunner engine would have performed if it had been introduced in say 1969 instead of '72, and your 400 build sort of answers that. I am eagerly awaiting the tunnel ram power numbers as well as those of the Holley Street Dominator.
I had to make the cut for the bracket. No bore scope for me. I used silly putty and kept checking. Just remembered after the first test I put tape on the pickup tube screen cause it’s a pain to get the putty out of it LOL
That’s the tried and true way. Play dough works too!
Thinking I'd weld that oil pickup bracket to the windage tray, then bolt it to the pickup.
That’s a cool idea. I may give it a go. The stock one didn’t have any support that I remember on truck pickups.
@@JustMoparJoe I have disassembled a few 440s, but not one was from a truck.
Great video as always!!! A bore scope is certainly handy for many uses
Yes indeed! Thanks Greg!
How thick are the pan gaskets I'm sure you won't miss that on the oil screen adjustment
I’m on it. I know they will help. The devil is in the details for sure
Great build video Joe, excellent information and well presented. This should provide good low to mid range torque. Look forward to following all the way to the run stand. Stay safe.
Thanks Scott! It’s going into an 80’s truck. Exactly the range we are wanting.
So! cool you build my dreams!!
Thanks John!
Great info. I have a 77 and 78 440 that I plan to build at some point in the future. I haven't figured out exactly what I want to do to build them. I'm new to engine building. Thus far, I only have a mostly stock 360 magnum under my belt.
You can do it! Adding compression, nice valve job, and rebalancing will make any 77 or 78 440 into a beast.
'
Rustenholtz I am building a 505 440 source 440 with aluminum heads and intake with dual 650 avs edelbrock carburetors, The heads are 325cc with 2.200 intake valves and 1.88 exhaust. I have .006 thousands deck clearance. I am wondering how much compression I can run on pump gas? right now it figures out to 10.8 to 1.
From my understanding, you’re at the typical maximum safe limit of premium fuel. Of course it depends on the dynamic compression ratio, based on your cam specs. Check online for a calculator. Thanks for watching!
what piston to wall clearance are you running with the icon piston? and what rings do you like?
Thanks Doug. 440 source recommends .006. I will go over that in a future video. This block is .0065. Using total seal file to fit. I think they’re perfect for this.
Hi Joe, Another great video. I haven't seen the following video but I was wondering that I am running hydraulic flat tappet lifters on my stroked 440 which is 4.350 bore and 4.250 stroke making it a 505. Do you think the cam and lifters will get enough oil with that same windage tray? Or should I leave itr off? Have a great day.
It’s all good. Remember, the crank slings oil above that windage tray. Every bearing has clearance, and in turn loses oil as it rotates.
I have the 543 kit from 440 source, very Lil clearencing I had to do by the internal oil pickup housing, but I had to use a external oil pump.mine has a Girdle with studs and ran into a problem with the mildon 7 QT pan was sloped at the back and hit the nuts..
Thank you for sharing! I want to build a 512 someday for my barracuda. The 400 will have to rock it this year.
Very nice approach to this stroker Joe. What I like is you look at everything before you go to the next step. The later smog blocks of the 70s are supposed to be stronger, better casting reinforcement. Is this engine for another car of yours (Challenger) or are you building this for someone else?
Thanks Mike. This is actually for an 80’s truck that belongs to my buddy. He’s paying me to do my diligence to it.
What is the name of that gauge that you're using to measure how far down the hole the piston is? I'd like to pick one up for myself.
I believe it’s a dial indicator that’s mounted on a sort of deck bridge. This one was definitely old
Weld a bracket to the windage tray to carry the pick up.
Definitely thinking about it
That's going to be a street engine?
Yes. Street and some strip. Going in an 80’s d100
Another great video, Joe.. I have to say though, I am not crazy about that bracket going under the main bolt... I would go another direction and weld a strap from one side to the other on the windage tray to get a very sturdy mount and then probably weld a bolt head to that strap and then use the 90* bracket with loktite on the bolts/nuts. Also wondering how lucky you will get with the pick up getting tight in the block in a good place!! Also, zero deck is as far as I would ever go. Who knows what the next build will be, but taking it lower typically means more issues than anyone wants... I totally get it. I'd want at least 11 to 1 w/aluminum heads.. You can still run pump gas at this point... Oh yeah, I am wondering what K-member you are using that allows that rear sump??? Maybe you've covered it before and i am losing it.. I am getting old!!!! ;)
Steve, I’m surprised you didn’t spot that pan. It’s for a truck. This one is going in a friends 80’s d100. We will shoot for 10.5-10.7. Thanks for the support!
@@JustMoparJoe Jesus, I guess I have too much going on in my head.. I thought this was going into the Cuda!! That's why I was interested in the K-member.. I do know the rear sump is common for trucks, but again, I thought this was going into your Cuda..
See what happens when you get old!! ;)
@@SteveP-vm1uc I wish I could have a sweet stroker in my barracuda. Going to make magic with the 400 this year
Hey Joe I like Summits windage tray that is made out of nylon and has built-in gaskets. They also make one for a stroker which is fairly inexpensive and is like a modern Hemi oil pan gasket. being that is plastic and is easy to cut
I checked on that windage tray. They make one for a 4.125 stroke, but not a 4.250 stroke.
I remember you had mentioned that before. I will order one for a later build. Thanks Thomas.
@@440Offroader I got one for my four and a quarter inch stroke engine and it clears by plenty just to let you know
1st build block was decked. Does second build have to be decked also?
I’m not sure what you’re asking. But I can try. I built a 508 and a 512 on the channel. Both blocks were decked by Rick seeman. I believe the 512 was only decked .002-.003”. We wanted the 508 to gain some compression, so it ended up shaved a bit more.
@@JustMoparJoe thank you for the reply. I’ll try to clarify. Would the deck height typically stay the same after it was decked once?
@@MrDeeregreen I don’t think the deck grows after assembly or anything. The blocks have been “seasoned” for the last 50 years in and out of running vehicles. I believe they could have moved or warped after 1,000’s of heat cycles, after the factory. But once machined now, they are pretty well where they will be. If a block needs rebuilt after a while, typically the cylinders can get a simple rehone and send it.
Joe, on your Barracuda. does the car have Original frame rails? and it would be nice to see under car look of how the ladder bar set up is. After you gave a peak from side view before i find it interesting to see a A-Body with Ladder Bars set up.
Thanks brother. Here’s a video showing under it. ua-cam.com/video/tJ-kkfNUPLI/v-deo.html
This is the engine you should put in your barracuda
I wish I could. Someday the channel may blow up and I can get one for it. Until then, I have a superbly machined block to drop a kit into.
Check with Ed , I was always told by old timers that that distance will diminish by 20%. I always wanted to know if that was a old wise tale or not. I always followed it to be true.
Thanks John. I will have him measure as well. Ed was within .005 of his estimate on my deck height!
I saw an interesting deal about turning a stock B-RB block into a cross bolt main block, the article seems to think it's necessary in over 700hp, what are your thoughts on that
That’s very interesting. I’ve heard that where the bolts are added, is a weak spot in the traditional casting. Most of the big horse guys I know are filling their blocks and adding stud girdles. Any more than that, you need an aftermarket block. We actually have a racecar that’s never been shown on the channel with the mega block.
What is your view on your bearing clearance, too tight in my opinion.
Yes sir. You’ll see in part 3.
I was hoping that compression calculator was going to tell you what the compression would be at zero deck.
Sent you a Text🫡
you're not worried about expansion ? Personally I would clearance I rather be safe than sorry
I bought x bearings for the rods. Mains are good to go.
If the quinch knocks the carbon off of the top of the piston the quinch is right
No doubt. In my 408, it had .006 piston to wall and a .039 gasket. The quench pad was nice and clean after tear down.
@@JustMoparJoe that is what works for an na engine
@@davidreed6070 I ran 150 shot on mine for about 6 passes. No issues
@@JustMoparJoe I haven't sprayed one hard but they say 3 or under you don't need to start taking quinch away. I'm trying the turbo deal now.
That is no good JMJ! 🧐
Yea sir. Getting it lined out.