I work as a diesel technician, so maybe it's just me, but another thing I do is ,pull the value cover off. I then start the tractor and check for fluid leaks or for fluid in places it shouldn't be. I also check to make sure that the rocker arms, valves, and injectors are functioning properly. Usually just by doing those few things you can tell how the engine was used, if there is any major internal problem or if any gaskets are leaking that could cause major failures.
I watch your videos from time to time , I recently bought a new M7060 from my local dealer (James Short tractor) in Carnesville Ga . Thank you for taking the time to do videos . Mike Holloway Watkinsville Ga
For many of those reasons you mentioned is why I bought a new Kubota! I’ve looked at many brands of tractors before my purchase and most if not all were beat to death and people still wanted over 10k for a compact tractor! Many had been left outside with severe paint fade and tires weathered checked! Engine oils were black and thick as molasses! Weeping oil from many places …. Loader very scratched up and abused! Even looked at one with one of the 3 point arms bent! Owner told me no big deal it still works fine! I’m sure there’s clean tractors out there for sale but wasn’t a whole lot in my area that I could find. Good informative video!
Good video, Neil. Always check the electrical system. A voltmeter and flashlight should go on every inspection. If the battery isn't at a nominal 12.5 VDC and 14.5 charging from the alternator that can be an expensive repair. I know from experience.
Because It's a Diesel Engine I would reach around the Engine Bay when I First arrive and check to see if its "Hot" and then I would do research on that particular tractor and listen to the cold starts and determine how well it starts then if it's 75 ish. I would then feel the engine and go ok it's cold and crank the tractor over. How long did it take to crank over, and are there any fast spots in the engine during starting a properly maintained diesel should start in 60+ weather WITHOUT glow plugs. If it's hot when I reach around and it's 70 out side ask if it's hard to start or why the engine is hot. also feel the fluids by wiping them on your fingers are they hot or cold. just an additional thought great Video
First I would to say I really like all video's that you put on. Second is check lift arms to make sure they don't drift down and if you can hook the pto and make sure it will run at load
One thing i can think of that i had a problem with is ant leaking around the front axle, it holds it's own oil throughout the front axle, and seals do go bad on occasion, you will see oil around the front steering axle and joints.
I would add checking all safety equipment - PTO shield, operator presence switch functional and neutral start functional. Good job overall and most customer now want a machine that is reliable, fully functional and safe
This is the first video I have seen on tips to look for on purchasing a used tractor and it was very professionally done and informational. I have a 1980 Kubota L185 with 530 hrs. on it and I am at the age I need a larger tractor with a front end loader instead of the little scoop I use on my tractor. My 40 year old Kubota as been a dependable tractor and I will only consider another Kubota. Unfortunately, the used ones are within a few thousand of a new one that I priced. The Kubota's really hold their value..
Do you have any tips on evaluating a gear tranny on a used tractor? Esp one of the fancier ones- powershift; partial powershift, etc. Nowadays some have so many features/functions it's hard to know where to start!
I have a video idea Go through some popular mods on tractors like Hydropic top link Increasing hydropic pressure with shims or stronger springs Home made implements And saying how much you recommend them and if there are some reasons/situations you wouldn't want to do it Alternatively how to shop for new/different rims like skinny or wide or two part rims that can change the spacing depending on how you assemble them or weights for your tires and how much you can use depending on the tractor along with wheel ballast and the advantages and disadvantages
Hi there, Was the second engine oil check done while the engine was running or right after the engine was run? Thanks for the video. I found it at just the right time.
When you check PTO operation, make sure PTO stops turning almost immediately after being disengaged. If it keeps spinning might be a bad clutch and potentially expensive repair.
I'd like to add, if raising the hood, look for wiring that has been damaged by mice. If running the engine, use a digital voltmeter to check battery voltage before starting is at least 12.5, and that charging volts after starting are more than 13. When I bought my otherwise clean Kubota, I later found the alternator only produced 11.5 volts, and the battery would not start the tractor if the headlights were on because it was under charged. The new battery should have raised a flag.
You said anything to add to what to look for when buying a used tractor. If it's a diesel, always check for blow by. Take oil filler cap off with engine running and look for smoke coming out of hole. Gently place cap back on but do not tighten. It it sits there that's a good thing. If it dances around walk away or offer scrap price.
Great video as always; quick question about the ROPS: say you were to weld light brackets onto the side of it would that be acceptable or should you attach them the way they were attached to the tractor in the video (U-Bolts and Zip Ties)?
Well that covers the loader and the PTO but that's it. How do you know the engine is good? How do you know the transmission is good? I'm looking at a used 4701 with 2300 hours. The guy said front tires cost 100.00 Don't think that's true
So if by some chance I were to stumble on a low hour demo model, would I still have to do an in depth checkoff like you have here? Asking since I saw a rebranded demo model tractor for sale from a retailer.
never ever stand in front of any loader attachment when releasing or reattaching the quick attach levers, best way in the world to get a trip to ER with busted up foot or broken leg ...Had a friend that did exactly that and was laid up for 6 months with busted up foot.
Tomorrow I plan to see a tractor that the guy is willing to deliver. The question is, how do I pay him and know that he's not just gonna keep my money and tractor? Should I have him follow me home before I pay him? It makes me think from his end whether he would feel right with that?
The first 50 change can make a huge difference between the engine lasting 2000 hrs or 10,000 hrs. I see this all the time. The 50 hr change followed by the 200's always average much higher hours before any major work needs done. Same holds true for those that feel that the service interval hrs are to low and constantly push to 500 hrs. Especially with the smaller engines. Hey, $50 dollars now, or $5000 later.
The reason you do your first oil change at 50 hours is because when they cast the block, there are microscopic pieces of metal left over that they never completely get out. Cheap insurance to get that stuff out. Chinese stuff is the worst, put the oil pan in the sun after you drain the oil for the first time, It looks like glitter was dumped in there.
Imagine if you’re selling a used tractor and somebody comes to your house and goes to this meticulous inspection before buying it I’ll kick him the hell out of my house and tell him to go to buy a new tractor
I work as a diesel technician, so maybe it's just me, but another thing I do is ,pull the value cover off. I then start the tractor and check for fluid leaks or for fluid in places it shouldn't be. I also check to make sure that the rocker arms, valves, and injectors are functioning properly. Usually just by doing those few things you can tell how the engine was used, if there is any major internal problem or if any gaskets are leaking that could cause major failures.
I watch your videos from time to time , I recently bought a new M7060 from my local dealer (James Short tractor) in Carnesville Ga . Thank you for taking the time to do videos .
Mike Holloway
Watkinsville Ga
I love these videos. I move to a rural area about a year ago and will be looking for used in a year or 2. Great info!!!!
Hydraulic hoses, for sure, then axle, pto, Coolant hoses, water leaks(water pump), etc. great video, info, thanks for sharing.
For many of those reasons you mentioned is why I bought a new Kubota! I’ve looked at many brands of tractors before my purchase and most if not all were beat to death and people still wanted over 10k for a compact tractor!
Many had been left outside with severe paint fade and tires weathered checked!
Engine oils were black and thick as molasses! Weeping oil from many places ….
Loader very scratched up and abused! Even looked at one with one of the 3 point arms bent! Owner told me no big deal it still works fine!
I’m sure there’s clean tractors out there for sale but wasn’t a whole lot in my area that I could find.
Good informative video!
Good video, Neil. Always check the electrical system. A voltmeter and flashlight should go on every inspection. If the battery isn't at a nominal 12.5 VDC and 14.5 charging from the alternator that can be an expensive repair. I know from experience.
Great video as always, hope I remember this stuff when buying my tractor.
What a great sight and presentation
very educative video. do I have to check the functionality of the PTO also
Because It's a Diesel Engine I would reach around the Engine Bay when I First arrive and check to see if its "Hot" and then I would do research on that particular tractor and listen to the cold starts and determine how well it starts then if it's 75 ish. I would then feel the engine and go ok it's cold and crank the tractor over. How long did it take to crank over, and are there any fast spots in the engine during starting a properly maintained diesel should start in 60+ weather WITHOUT glow plugs. If it's hot when I reach around and it's 70 out side ask if it's hard to start or why the engine is hot. also feel the fluids by wiping them on your fingers are they hot or cold. just an additional thought great Video
First I would to say I really like all video's that you put on. Second is check lift arms to make sure they don't drift down and if you can hook the pto and make sure it will run at load
pro tip : you can watch series on Flixzone. Been using them for watching lots of of movies lately.
@Avery Iker Yup, have been using flixzone for months myself :)
One thing i can think of that i had a problem with is ant leaking around the front axle, it holds it's own oil throughout the front axle, and seals do go bad on occasion, you will see oil around the front steering axle and joints.
I would add checking all safety equipment - PTO shield, operator presence switch functional and neutral start functional. Good job overall and most customer now want a machine that is reliable, fully functional and safe
Thanks! I didn't think about mounting a light on a ROPS as potentially causing a safety issue!
it's only a problem when you roll your tractor over. :)
This is the first video I have seen on tips to look for on purchasing a used tractor and it was very professionally done and informational. I have a 1980 Kubota L185 with 530 hrs. on it and I am at the age I need a larger tractor with a front end loader instead of the little scoop I use on my tractor. My 40 year old Kubota as been a dependable tractor and I will only consider another Kubota. Unfortunately, the used ones are within a few thousand of a new one that I priced. The Kubota's really hold their value..
Do you have any tips on evaluating a gear tranny on a used tractor? Esp one of the fancier ones- powershift; partial powershift, etc. Nowadays some have so many features/functions it's hard to know where to start!
I have a video idea
Go through some popular mods on tractors like
Hydropic top link
Increasing hydropic pressure with shims or stronger springs
Home made implements
And saying how much you recommend them and if there are some reasons/situations you wouldn't want to do it
Alternatively
how to shop for new/different rims like skinny or wide or two part rims that can change the spacing depending on how you assemble them or weights for your tires and how much you can use depending on the tractor along with wheel ballast and the advantages and disadvantages
Hi there,
Was the second engine oil check done while the engine was running or right after the engine was run? Thanks for the video. I found it at just the right time.
When you check PTO operation, make sure PTO stops turning almost immediately after being disengaged. If it keeps spinning might be a bad clutch and potentially expensive repair.
I'd like to add, if raising the hood, look for wiring that has been damaged by mice. If running the engine, use a digital voltmeter to check battery voltage before starting is at least 12.5, and that charging volts after starting are more than 13. When I bought my otherwise clean Kubota, I later found the alternator only produced 11.5 volts, and the battery would not start the tractor if the headlights were on because it was under charged. The new battery should have raised a flag.
wire damage
if its a stick shift tractor, check to see that it shifts good and the clutch isn't shot.
You said anything to add to what to look for when buying a used tractor. If it's a diesel, always check for blow by. Take oil filler cap off with engine running and look for smoke coming out of hole. Gently place cap back on but do not tighten. It it sits there that's a good thing. If it dances around walk away or offer scrap price.
Another thing is to make sure there is no blow by from the oil cap opening.
Good video thanks
Good video
can you do a video on what to look for when purchasing a used big square baler please..thanks
best question asked....
Looks like they answered you.
Great video as always; quick question about the ROPS: say you were to weld light brackets onto the side of it would that be acceptable or should you attach them the way they were attached to the tractor in the video (U-Bolts and Zip Ties)?
+Colin MacGrath welding would also comprise the structure. Bolts, zip ties, billy-worx brackets
How to check for flood damage
Well that covers the loader and the PTO but that's it. How do you know the engine is good? How do you know the transmission is good?
I'm looking at a used 4701 with 2300 hours. The guy said front tires cost 100.00 Don't think that's true
What gear should you be in when you do the transmission motor-stall test?
High, to make the engine fight.
So if by some chance I were to stumble on a low hour demo model, would I still have to do an in depth checkoff like you have here? Asking since I saw a rebranded demo model tractor for sale from a retailer.
Sounds like a tractor that may have a story behind it.
never ever stand in front of any loader attachment when releasing or reattaching the quick attach levers, best way in the world to get a trip to ER with busted up foot or broken leg ...Had a friend that did exactly that and was laid up for 6 months with busted up foot.
Tomorrow I plan to see a tractor that the guy is willing to deliver. The question is, how do I pay him and know that he's not just gonna keep my money and tractor? Should I have him follow me home before I pay him? It makes me think from his end whether he would feel right with that?
How did it work out?
Any chance on comparing an ls tractor
+Mike Parks very very rare around these parts. can't say I even know who the closest dealer would be.
Messick Farm Equipment ok tha ks for the fast reply and the great videos
Oil right into the tire? Some tires don’t like that...
a bit picky statement what he did will be gone in a day and won't hurt nothing at all!
I'm an ag teacher and I'm stealing most of this info if I have an FFA Radio broadcasting team.
+bearkatljl 😀 awesome
If you want you could do a compression test to. Lol
i feel like i know something now
they could have greased it the day before putting on the market
You don’t need to do a oil change at 50. 200 is just fine.
The first 50 change can make a huge difference between the engine lasting 2000 hrs or 10,000 hrs. I see this all the time. The 50 hr change followed by the 200's always average much higher hours before any major work needs done.
Same holds true for those that feel that the service interval hrs are to low and constantly push to 500 hrs. Especially with the smaller engines.
Hey, $50 dollars now, or $5000 later.
The reason you do your first oil change at 50 hours is because when they cast the block, there are microscopic pieces of metal left over that they never completely get out. Cheap insurance to get that stuff out. Chinese stuff is the worst, put the oil pan in the sun after you drain the oil for the first time, It looks like glitter was dumped in there.
@@MrNota500 The same as when I bought a new boat.
Imagine if you’re selling a used tractor and somebody comes to your house and goes to this meticulous inspection before buying it I’ll kick him the hell out of my house and tell him to go to buy a new tractor