Great product filmed very nicely. Cool to see you also include some struggles with the installation, this makes it a much more believable video as working on cars is mostly very difficult for the home mechanic. Cheers!
Thank you for noticing! It is always tricky editing out stuff and still conveying realistic expectations. After everything said and done, I would rate this job a "medium" difficulty!
That was a very good install video, I am planning on doing the same to my Vector as I already have it in the aero. Great job and great from Powerflex to be sponsoring this, congrats on that.
Happy new year!! The thing about saab ownership is, I constantly go back and forth about selling or not. But at the end of the day I want to continue to improve this car. A clean stock Viggen is definitely on the list though!
I'm one of those OCD people that can't stand vibration noise while I'm driving, but I think it's insignificant enough for me to ignore. Also as someone in the comment mentioned, my rear two bushings were basically gone, so now that I actually have full connection to the road, my senses may be heightened. I think with a few more drives, I'll get fully used to it. That and considering "break-in" period, I would recommend it! My car feels so good now, and I feel so much more confident during gear changes and going over bumps.
Your brushed aluminium dash, thats from an Aero ? I'm in New Zealand and have 4 Saab 95's, 3 are Aero the other an ordinary wagon, 2 are my daily driver cars and the other Aero and the wagon now being parts cars, when and if I need them. Very impressed with your wrapping skills and the choice of colour. I'll check out Powerflex, cheers.
Just want to note that PowerFlex are the ones to go with here. Do this job ONCE. The PPS ones fail in time. I don't care you have 100k miles and have no issues. There are countless reports that the PPS ones fail at some point as with most PPS parts.
Good question! That's a question that comes up a lot. The bolt and the inner sleeve is enough to support the bushing. As for why it goes on the top, I do not know. That's just in the instructions haha.
@@BWTECH0521 Thanks for getting back to me. I had to ask. I changed out a couple on mine over a year ago, but can't remember putting it on top. Something for me to check. Thanks!
Funny I never had a clunk starting from a stand still with the work bushings, then I changed the bushings and I get this annoying clunk. I wonder if it has anything to do with me using the wrong bushings, I have a 2006 but I got the bushings that are all the same size.
That could very well be the case. Powerflex, in my opinion, takes these things very seriously and if they found that the middle ones needed to be 2 mm larger, there must have a good reason for it. Maybe you could try these when you get a chance!
What is that shop that offers different set depending on model year? I ordered mine a month ago and today was supposed to be assembly day but after this video I measured them and all are 38mm, car is -04. I haven’t yet came by a shop that offers the PFF-66-208-40 set.
I think my video made it look more easy than it actually is. It is definitely easier than OEM rubber and metal bushings (you need a press tool). These are much easier but it will require some elbow grease and some body contortion especially if you don't have a lift. Good luck!
Hi! Thanks for the video, it really helps! What model year is your Saab? And if I order the PFF66-208 bushing set, will there be 2 bushings of a different size in it?
My pleasure, glad I can help out :) Mine is a 2004, you need to get the one for your model year regardless. The '02-'10 are the ones that have 2 bushings that are slightly larger than the other 4.
I wonder…am I the only bonehead here that hasn’t figured out how a handsaw works? It’s taking forever to cut thru the metal sleeve on the rear…using 14T metal blade(started with 24T but learned quickly that is not the way….) can’t get a sawzaw under the vehicle (on jacks) and sucking badly with negotiating a jigsaw. The sleeve is a relatively thick steel, right? Video is a great tutorial though!
Thanks! It's a huge pain in the butt to do it by hand. My shoulders and neck got a good work out lol. It'll seem like it's not working, and then all of a sudden it'll come out, don't give up!!!
A bit of a correction; he says there is "more vibration coming from the steering wheel and seats". That's not really the correct thing to say. The bushings he replaced were GONE, so there was a lack of connection between the subframe and body of the car. This caused a lack of communication through the steering wheel and butt. So when he says there's "more", he really should have said "there is". Cars from this generation had a focus on steering feel and communication that modern cars completely lack, so for someone like this kid to say there's "more", it's just that there "is". He's used to modern cars that have 0 feed-back, so it's existence is a new experience. The actual difference between new (functioning) rubber bushings and poly? Mostly pros and 0 cons. You get better control and communication, with very, very little increase in NVH. In fact those that claim there is, are just over-imaginative and looking to find something.
Thanks for watching this in detail. You might be right. But only my rear 2 bushings were GONE. The other 4 were all there and well connected, so I had to drill it out. I have owned 5 older saabs and several cars from the 90s and 2000s so I am familiar with cars that have connection to the road. But this is my first time experiencing poly bushings. These are my opinions. Thanks again for your input mate! And thanks for calling my 35 year old self a kid, I feel young again haha!
Happy New Year everyone. And just incase you missed it, THANK YOU.
Your driveline will thank you by lasting longer too, especially the CV joints. Congrats on the sponsor!
Thank you as always!!
Great product filmed very nicely. Cool to see you also include some struggles with the installation, this makes it a much more believable video as working on cars is mostly very difficult for the home mechanic. Cheers!
Thank you for noticing! It is always tricky editing out stuff and still conveying realistic expectations. After everything said and done, I would rate this job a "medium" difficulty!
Great video!
thank you!
First video i have seen on your On the channel, i love it. I myself have thought about buying a Saab.😊
go for it, you won't regret it!!
Sometimes they just need time to break in and that will solve some of the vibration. Good video. 👍
thanks!
@@BWTECH0521 You know in all honesty it could possibly be your engine mounts too. The bushings have a way of 'letting you know' other stuff..
@@Vizenz121_OR Definitely so. I haven't checked my mounts. Will be replacing them soon. Thanks!
That was a very good install video, I am planning on doing the same to my Vector as I already have it in the aero.
Great job and great from Powerflex to be sponsoring this, congrats on that.
Thank you! Good luck with the install :)
Happy New Year, Bruce! If you sell, get yourself another Viggen!
Happy new year!! The thing about saab ownership is, I constantly go back and forth about selling or not. But at the end of the day I want to continue to improve this car. A clean stock Viggen is definitely on the list though!
The vibration will get a little better with time as they settle in and when you replace more engine mounts.
oh yea, need to do engine and trans mounts soon. It's a never ending labor of love haha
Great!
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing precise driving impressions on your results.
My pleasure!
Very well detailed videos, I see why they sponsored you. Thanks! "BMW drivers.." lol!
Thanks Marco! Gotta watch out for those menacing BMW moms! 😂
Congrats on the sponsor!!
Thanks mate! Thank you for the long time support :)
This makes me realize I probably need to do my subframe mounts & engine but I hate the vibration😬
I'm one of those OCD people that can't stand vibration noise while I'm driving, but I think it's insignificant enough for me to ignore. Also as someone in the comment mentioned, my rear two bushings were basically gone, so now that I actually have full connection to the road, my senses may be heightened. I think with a few more drives, I'll get fully used to it. That and considering "break-in" period, I would recommend it! My car feels so good now, and I feel so much more confident during gear changes and going over bumps.
Great video! 🔥🔥
Thanks 🔥
Your brushed aluminium dash, thats from an Aero ?
I'm in New Zealand and have 4 Saab 95's, 3 are Aero the other an ordinary wagon, 2 are my daily driver cars and the other Aero and the wagon now being parts cars, when and if I need them.
Very impressed with your wrapping skills and the choice of colour.
I'll check out Powerflex, cheers.
Yes, I removed the silver trim from an Aero parts car and put it in mine. wow 4 9-5s! You are winning in life haha. Good stuff!
I will replace it with a factory tire. No vibration
Good video!!
Thank you!
Just want to note that PowerFlex are the ones to go with here. Do this job ONCE. The PPS ones fail in time. I don't care you have 100k miles and have no issues. There are countless reports that the PPS ones fail at some point as with most PPS parts.
You guys heard it from the man!
Great video! Why does the large washer go between the frame and the bushing and not on the bottom?
Good question! That's a question that comes up a lot. The bolt and the inner sleeve is enough to support the bushing. As for why it goes on the top, I do not know. That's just in the instructions haha.
@@BWTECH0521 Thanks for getting back to me. I had to ask. I changed out a couple on mine over a year ago, but can't remember putting it on top. Something for me to check. Thanks!
Funny I never had a clunk starting from a stand still with the work bushings, then I changed the bushings and I get this annoying clunk. I wonder if it has anything to do with me using the wrong bushings, I have a 2006 but I got the bushings that are all the same size.
That could very well be the case. Powerflex, in my opinion, takes these things very seriously and if they found that the middle ones needed to be 2 mm larger, there must have a good reason for it. Maybe you could try these when you get a chance!
4:31 wow busted !! ㅋㅋ
it was GONE!
What is that shop that offers different set depending on model year? I ordered mine a month ago and today was supposed to be assembly day but after this video I measured them and all are 38mm, car is -04. I haven’t yet came by a shop that offers the PFF-66-208-40 set.
I ordered directly from powerflex. They have 2 types for the 2 model years.
Ah this explains a lot of the clunking ive been hearing, pretty nice to know its not that hard to replace
I think my video made it look more easy than it actually is. It is definitely easier than OEM rubber and metal bushings (you need a press tool). These are much easier but it will require some elbow grease and some body contortion especially if you don't have a lift. Good luck!
Toppakning
Hi! Thanks for the video, it really helps!
What model year is your Saab? And if I order the PFF66-208 bushing set, will there be 2 bushings of a different size in it?
My pleasure, glad I can help out :)
Mine is a 2004, you need to get the one for your model year regardless. The '02-'10 are the ones that have 2 bushings that are slightly larger than the other 4.
@@BWTECH0521 How did you order them? In the Netherlands it's very difficult to search for the right ones...
@@stanvanbeek8305 what model year is yours?
On the subframe on my 9 5 did you just lift the front and put jack stands just for the front of car?
@@angelonarciso6913 jack stands on the front side jack points and then lift the subframe up with a jack
@@BWTECH0521 thank you!
I wonder…am I the only bonehead here that hasn’t figured out how a handsaw works? It’s taking forever to cut thru the metal sleeve on the rear…using 14T metal blade(started with 24T but learned quickly that is not the way….) can’t get a sawzaw under the vehicle (on jacks) and sucking badly with negotiating a jigsaw. The sleeve is a relatively thick steel, right?
Video is a great tutorial though!
Thanks! It's a huge pain in the butt to do it by hand. My shoulders and neck got a good work out lol. It'll seem like it's not working, and then all of a sudden it'll come out, don't give up!!!
A bit of a correction; he says there is "more vibration coming from the steering wheel and seats". That's not really the correct thing to say.
The bushings he replaced were GONE, so there was a lack of connection between the subframe and body of the car. This caused a lack of communication through the steering wheel and butt. So when he says there's "more", he really should have said "there is". Cars from this generation had a focus on steering feel and communication that modern cars completely lack, so for someone like this kid to say there's "more", it's just that there "is". He's used to modern cars that have 0 feed-back, so it's existence is a new experience.
The actual difference between new (functioning) rubber bushings and poly? Mostly pros and 0 cons. You get better control and communication, with very, very little increase in NVH. In fact those that claim there is, are just over-imaginative and looking to find something.
Thanks for watching this in detail. You might be right. But only my rear 2 bushings were GONE. The other 4 were all there and well connected, so I had to drill it out. I have owned 5 older saabs and several cars from the 90s and 2000s so I am familiar with cars that have connection to the road. But this is my first time experiencing poly bushings. These are my opinions. Thanks again for your input mate! And thanks for calling my 35 year old self a kid, I feel young again haha!
Those are great! Super easy install.
yes, I love them!