I'm having this done by a licensed electrician BUT this video was extremely informative. Thank you. I now know what the level of effort and work is and will be able to solicit bids with a good understanding of what to expect. I look forward to seeing the 22Kw video.
Since I have been installing generacs now for over 7 yrs I don’t use open service cable because of the deterioration of the jacket to allow wicking all the way down to the panel and I deox all my lugs the corrosion on the neutral in the panel was alot
I know but as an almost 40 yr electrician and also a contractor I have seen the cost effectiveness and longer lasting if all the outside electrical is in a conduit and not a cable netter value for the customer I always used cable only until I have seen the damage to the main panel from wicking from the breakdown of the outer sheath and yes it is still by code I was just giving my 2 cents in on a vid some customers are on a bit of a budget so I understand good job
I just did this but in my case, since I had the same situation and did not want to install it outside flush with a window (leaving room for service on both sides of electric distribution panels) I simply worked it all inside the house. I slid my former main panel 7 inches to the side (romex allowed some play) and installed the SER 200AMP ATS to the SEC coming from the meter. So, the ATS is now where the former main panel was and the "breaker panel" (now subpanel) is next to it, connected with a 2". I did not have to mess with the connections at the meter and all I had to do is scoot the "breaker panel" to the side and insert the ATS where it was to meet the (SEC) wires coming from the meter. Looks tidy and passed with flying colors. I did not want to have my main disconnect outside. I helped a friend install his a few years ago and in his case we put a 200AMP safety switch (disconnect) outside and then from that disconnect we ran the wires to the ATS inside. It was an additional $110 but the beauty is that if he ever needs to work on the ATS or replace it, he can kill the juice without having to remove the meter.
So do you add the neutral from the meter and the neutral from the service entrance cable on the lower bar and just the ground to the top. I know they are connected by the green wire but I didn’t see you connect the service entrance neutral or ground so I was wondering
Obviously, we have some limitations with the SEU cable. For one, where's its subject to physical damage, like on the driveway side of the house where it is feasible that a car could actually hit the cable, in that situation it will not pass inspection. Also, in New Jersey we abide by the Uniform Construction Code which in turn adopts the NEC. Some stuff is never adopted and some stuff is changed to meet the existing situation (like clearances for electrical panels in basements that are less than 6' tall, for example). We also have a Rehab Sub Code which allows for existing structures and a whole other set of rules outside the parameter of the NEC.
My AHJ here in CA wont allow it either- it sure would make things easier in some circumstances! What I found most interesting was the analog meter. I love those things but rarely ever see one anymore. When they did the transition to digital meters in 2011 the only way a customer could keep their analog meter was to pay a one time $75 fee and $10 per month afterwards. That lasted until about 2015-16 when a class action lawsuit was settled and they told people they didn't have to pay "anymore";) by then >99% of all households had a "smart" meter. SCE and PG&E ended up getting what they wanted after all- and millions in additional fees to boot
T1 is the battery charger, N1 & N2 are the 240 volt sensing conductors that tells the generator when utility power has been lost and when it returns. 0 is the low voltage ground, 94 is the 12 volts that opens and closes a set of contacts that turns the generator on and off, and 23 is the actual transfer. These (6) conductors terminate between the transfer switch and the generator. That's all you have to do is connect them at each end. The actual transfer takes place by wiring already in place and goes into greater detail at the schooling Generac provides for its individual dealers and service technicians. I hope this was helpful.
How do you wire the control wires when you have two transfer switches on a 22k generator. It’s for a 400 amp service with two 200Amp main electrical panels. Thank you!
Very good job but how put the wires to the generator to start/stop the engine for standby ??? thanks ...I can do the electrical I'm an electrician but my problem is that one for the generator to be in standby to kick start the generator....
Without seeing it I’d have to plan to redo the whole service without a meter/ main combination if your transfer switch is to become the main disconnect.
Did you have to get an inspection before power was turned back on after the ATS install and then again after the generator was done or just one inspection after everything was finished?
Hey Ron, I'm recently sub'd to you and really enjoy your content style and background music and totally love the on screen printed follow up notes along with your verbal description of your actions. Please keep it up and you will go far. I guess all these Gensets are NG fed aren't they? Do you do the gas work there or plumber or who? Is that piped in before you do electric or after?
I don't do any of the gas piping. I've studied the requirements for the specific kilowatt size generators so I know what size piping the plumber must install but any further from that I dont get involved in it. A properly sized gas main is also crucial to a good installation.
Could you explain WHY this is necessary? What about home generators installed before this NEC update? I just had a 12kw Briggs & Stratton put in, 150amp xfer switch wired to a new panel that was installed last December. The original four fuse panel (inside a kitchen cupboard) went back to 1952. The home currently is 95% 12-2 in its wiring. (no ground)...with 2 prong outlets. Appreciate any insight in this matter as I'm trying to grasp and learn the purpose for doing this.
Grounding is necessary to clear a GROUND FAULT and prevent electrical shock. The equipment grounding conductor (EGC for short), is a non-current carrying path for fault current to clear a fault.
Hello. Great video. I just got the same transfer switch. 14kw generator won’t have until November. So it’s okay to install this now? And the house will still function normal? And then add the generator later. Thanks!
There will no problem in doing that. Whenever I do a whole house generator I usually install the transfer switch the first day and the generator install the following day.
I saw a lot of errors in this video. The main are I noticed was that this guy did not use electrical conduit to put the main conductors in. With the sun beating on the cable. All that plastic becomes brittle. Therefore with a proper electrical conduit will be the correct answer to protect the wiring. This guy clearly did not know how to obey electrical building code. So make sure you obey all it was going to building code and have the proper inspection every time. P. S. Every location in the world has different rules and regulations. Please check in with your building inspectors or Building Department to find out what the actual building code is for your actual area. And if you are not sure if that your electrician do the job correctly. You have a legal right to contact the building inspector themselves. Inorder to have the work inspected. For a peace of mind.
Oh, you're cute. In what world do you review electrical work? You should familiarize yourself with the National Electrical Code, specifically section 230.43 which lists approved wiring methods and service-entrance cable is listed for service equipment. For more information you should see DCA's website before popping off about building departments, inspections, and construction officials. P.S. Where are you a licensed electrical contractor?
Hey genius, lots of errors ? FYI SER has the same outer covering as the service cable (SEU) that enters and exits the meter pan. Perfectly legal to use it exposed on a house just like its cousin SEU. Its sunlight resistant and lasts just as long. What are all the other errors ?
The service-entrance conductors are 4/0 aluminum SEU cable, the feeders to the existing panel are 4/0 SER cable, and the feeders out to the generator are #4 copper. The control wiring is all #14AWG copper stranded THHN/ THWN.
The distribution panel became a “sub panel” when the main bonding jumper was removed and grounds and neutral conductors were isolated from one another.
With these new meters you can't pull out...w/o pulling a permit...but old watt meters you can get by cutting tag..power company shows up soon. As you pull new ones...lol...ithink they have a sim card...
No problem at all. I have a license to do this work and an electrical permit to do this work. I'm also a small dealer (factory trained) for Generac. I believe I am more than qualified for this application. This job also passed on the first inspection for fire, building, mechanical, and electrical.
Why would you add a ground bar if you are going to leave the bonding screw in. The ground bar will have the same potential as the neutral as long as the bonding screw is installed.
Because the load side service-entrance conductors (the conductors between the meter and the circuit breaker panel) gets removed and relocated to the automatic transfer switch.
Guess you don’t know the NEC very well. Also, codes vary from state to state and I don’t know anyone using ridged metallic conduit for an air-cooled standby generator.
should have changed the whole service , that ser cable is crap , the connector was loaded with duct seal which was obviously carrying water into the panel evidenced by the rust spots in the panel
I'm having this done by a licensed electrician BUT this video was extremely informative. Thank you. I now know what the level of effort and work is and will be able to solicit bids with a good understanding of what to expect. I look forward to seeing the 22Kw video.
JC, thanks for the compliment on the video. How did your generator turn out?
Thanks for these great videos. I am currently an HVAC guy studying for the masters electrician exam visualizing the main bonding jumper helped thanks
Always remember that current returns to the source.
Greetings from Montréal Canada 🇨🇦
I always watch your videos
God bless you
Thank you!
I ALWAYS DOUBLE TAP MY NEW GROUND BARS ALSO
Thats the most painful job i did when installing generators🤦🏻♂️ un-bonding neutral and ground at the main distribution panel
Thank You. Looking forward to the run to the generator
Have you watch part two?
Since I have been installing generacs now for over 7 yrs I don’t use open service cable because of the deterioration of the jacket to allow wicking all the way down to the panel and I deox all my lugs the corrosion on the neutral in the panel was alot
And I also take out the guys in the transfer to make it lighter and also so I don’t get metal shavings in the transfer equipment
Guts not guys
It has to be installed correctly. SEU/ SER is a listed product identified for use as service equipment.
I know but as an almost 40 yr electrician and also a contractor I have seen the cost effectiveness and longer lasting if all the outside electrical is in a conduit and not a cable netter value for the customer I always used cable only until I have seen the damage to the main panel from wicking from the breakdown of the outer sheath and yes it is still by code I was just giving my 2 cents in on a vid some customers are on a bit of a budget so I understand good job
Great video Mr. Electrician !!!!! May I suggest some O'Keefe's hand cream and fingerless working gloves !!!!
I just did this but in my case, since I had the same situation and did not want to install it outside flush with a window (leaving room for service on both sides of electric distribution panels) I simply worked it all inside the house.
I slid my former main panel 7 inches to the side (romex allowed some play) and installed the SER 200AMP ATS to the SEC coming from the meter. So, the ATS is now where the former main panel was and the "breaker panel" (now subpanel) is next to it, connected with a 2". I did not have to mess with the connections at the meter and all I had to do is scoot the "breaker panel" to the side and insert the ATS where it was to meet the (SEC) wires coming from the meter.
Looks tidy and passed with flying colors. I did not want to have my main disconnect outside.
I helped a friend install his a few years ago and in his case we put a 200AMP safety switch (disconnect) outside and then from that disconnect we ran the wires to the ATS inside. It was an additional $110 but the beauty is that if he ever needs to work on the ATS or replace it, he can kill the juice without having to remove the meter.
Awesome job! Thank you for sharing.
thank you Vince!
So do you add the neutral from the meter and the neutral from the service entrance cable on the lower bar and just the ground to the top. I know they are connected by the green wire but I didn’t see you connect the service entrance neutral or ground so I was wondering
Gotta wire up one 2023
I’m doing one next week!
I love the regional differences. In Texas, we can't run surface-mounted SER cable. It has to be concealed or in conduit.
Keep the bass lines rolling!
Obviously, we have some limitations with the SEU cable. For one, where's its subject to physical damage, like on the driveway side of the house where it is feasible that a car could actually hit the cable, in that situation it will not pass inspection. Also, in New Jersey we abide by the Uniform Construction Code which in turn adopts the NEC. Some stuff is never adopted and some stuff is changed to meet the existing situation (like clearances for electrical panels in basements that are less than 6' tall, for example). We also have a Rehab Sub Code which allows for existing structures and a whole other set of rules outside the parameter of the NEC.
@@electricalron yes, why not have yet another set of guidelines;)
My AHJ here in CA wont allow it either- it sure would make things easier in some circumstances! What I found most interesting was the analog meter. I love those things but rarely ever see one anymore. When they did the transition to digital meters in 2011 the only way a customer could keep their analog meter was to pay a one time $75 fee and $10 per month afterwards. That lasted until about 2015-16 when a class action lawsuit was settled and they told people they didn't have to pay "anymore";) by then >99% of all households had a "smart" meter. SCE and PG&E ended up getting what they wanted after all- and millions in additional fees to boot
Getting a license in New York City with hard in New Jersey do they still have the open book test
You didn't show how you hookup the transfer switch control
T1 is the battery charger, N1 & N2 are the 240 volt sensing conductors that tells the generator when utility power has been lost and when it returns. 0 is the low voltage ground, 94 is the 12 volts that opens and closes a set of contacts that turns the generator on and off, and 23 is the actual transfer. These (6) conductors terminate between the transfer switch and the generator. That's all you have to do is connect them at each end. The actual transfer takes place by wiring already in place and goes into greater detail at the schooling Generac provides for its individual dealers and service technicians. I hope this was helpful.
How do you wire the control wires when you have two transfer switches on a 22k generator. It’s for a 400 amp service with two 200Amp main electrical panels. Thank you!
Que calibre de cable se utiliza para el tranfer??
Very good job but how put the wires to the generator to start/stop the engine for standby ??? thanks ...I can do the electrical I'm an electrician but my problem is that one for the generator to be in standby to kick start the generator....
What do you do when the meter head is integral with the service entrance panel?
Without seeing it I’d have to plan to redo the whole service without a meter/ main combination if your transfer switch is to become the main disconnect.
Did you have to get an inspection before power was turned back on after the ATS install and then again after the generator was done or just one inspection after everything was finished?
Just one inspection
Hey Ron, I'm recently sub'd to you and really enjoy your content style and background music and totally love the on screen printed follow up notes along with your verbal description of your actions. Please keep it up and you will go far.
I guess all these Gensets are NG fed aren't they? Do you do the gas work there or plumber or who? Is that piped in before you do electric or after?
I don't do any of the gas piping. I've studied the requirements for the specific kilowatt size generators so I know what size piping the plumber must install but any further from that I dont get involved in it. A properly sized gas main is also crucial to a good installation.
I wouldn't want to take that license exam again but I made it now I'm retired
slick work and nice video. good stuff.
Control wiring?
You're allowed to used SER exposed in NJ?
Of course. It’s real popular here in the northeast. We have aluminum and copper SE available.
Crazy to see what's allowed under different AHJ, just running exposed SER on the side of a house like it's nothing
yes, its allowed but you can always dress it up a little better and not just make a bridge in the air like this one. just a thought.
Great video , any benefits of using aluminum conductor verses copper conductor ? Thanks
Copper is a better conductor of electricity but can be very expensive.
Why using aluminum wire and not copper?
price
Nice Job there and N1CE SET UP TOO @ 4:49 ✅
Only Problem is I Can’t Read that Phast…!!! 🤷🏻♂️🫣🤔
Great video....can I use a different transfer switch with briggs and stratton standby generators
I'm sure you can but I'd play it safe and use the transfer switch recommended by the manufacturer of the generator.
Could you explain WHY this is necessary? What about home generators installed before this NEC update? I just had a 12kw Briggs & Stratton put in, 150amp xfer switch wired to a new panel that was installed last December. The original four fuse panel (inside a kitchen cupboard) went back to 1952. The home currently is 95% 12-2 in its wiring. (no ground)...with 2 prong outlets. Appreciate any insight in this matter as I'm trying to grasp and learn the purpose for doing this.
Grounding is necessary to clear a GROUND FAULT and prevent electrical shock. The equipment grounding conductor (EGC for short), is a non-current carrying path for fault current to clear a fault.
How come you didn't show the landing of the SER cable connections into the old main panel?
4-wire
@@electricalron yes SER. SER is 4 wire SE cable & SEU is 2 wire SE cable. Why did you not show connecting it into the panel?
Hello. Great video. I just got the same transfer switch. 14kw generator won’t have until November. So it’s okay to install this now? And the house will still function normal? And then add the generator later. Thanks!
There will no problem in doing that. Whenever I do a whole house generator I usually install the transfer switch the first day and the generator install the following day.
I saw a lot of errors in this video. The main are I noticed was that this guy did not use electrical conduit to put the main conductors in. With the sun beating on the cable. All that plastic becomes brittle. Therefore with a proper electrical conduit will be the correct answer to protect the wiring. This guy clearly did not know how to obey electrical building code. So make sure you obey all it was going to building code and have the proper inspection every time.
P. S. Every location in the world has different rules and regulations. Please check in with your building inspectors or Building Department to find out what the actual building code is for your actual area.
And if you are not sure if that your electrician do the job correctly. You have a legal right to contact the building inspector themselves. Inorder to have the work inspected. For a peace of mind.
Oh, you're cute. In what world do you review electrical work? You should familiarize yourself with the National Electrical Code, specifically section 230.43 which lists approved wiring methods and service-entrance cable is listed for service equipment. For more information you should see DCA's website before popping off about building departments, inspections, and construction officials. P.S. Where are you a licensed electrical contractor?
Hey genius, lots of errors ? FYI SER has the same outer covering as the service cable (SEU) that enters and exits the meter pan. Perfectly legal to use it exposed on a house just like its cousin SEU. Its sunlight resistant and lasts just as long. What are all the other errors ?
you have E1 and E2 in the video...I think you meant T1 and T2
E1 and E2 are for load (inside house panel)and T1 and T2 are for generator...I believe
Great video, what are the specs of the wire used in this installation? Thanks
The service-entrance conductors are 4/0 aluminum SEU cable, the feeders to the existing panel are 4/0 SER cable, and the feeders out to the generator are #4 copper. The control wiring is all #14AWG copper stranded THHN/ THWN.
Just wondering, no need for a sub panel?
The distribution panel became a “sub panel” when the main bonding jumper was removed and grounds and neutral conductors were isolated from one another.
With these new meters you can't pull out...w/o pulling a permit...but old watt meters you can get by cutting tag..power company shows up soon. As you pull new ones...lol...ithink they have a sim card...
No problem at all. I have a license to do this work and an electrical permit to do this work. I'm also a small dealer (factory trained) for Generac. I believe I am more than qualified for this application. This job also passed on the first inspection for fire, building, mechanical, and electrical.
@@electricalron I am looking apprentice...are you interested 🤣
Why would you add a ground bar if you are going to leave the bonding screw in. The ground bar will have the same potential as the neutral as long as the bonding screw is installed.
The bonding screw is removed in the distribution panel and the bonding jumper is in the main disconnect. Btw, it is always in the main disconnect.
What size service wire is that?
4/0 aluminum from the ATS to the utility meter.
Why your pulling a meter if your just installing a tranfer switch??
Because the load side service-entrance conductors (the conductors between the meter and the circuit breaker panel) gets removed and relocated to the automatic transfer switch.
to lessen your chance of electrocution
That don't look like 2 ought aluminum
It’s not. It’s 4/0 Aluminum!
Use RMC we could never get away with that installation
Guess you don’t know the NEC very well. Also, codes vary from state to state and I don’t know anyone using ridged metallic conduit for an air-cooled standby generator.
@@electricalron good to have all service entrance conductors in rigid
@@funny524k its good to have ALL copper conductors too. Again, not required.
@@electricalron I only use copper conductors. Lol
We can all agree code is minimum requirements
Nolan not mandatory
Number 6 all that's required to electrodes
To ground rods that's all that's required. There's all different sizes required depending on the size of the service conductors. NEC 250.66
should have changed the whole service , that ser cable is crap , the connector was loaded with duct seal which was obviously carrying water into the panel evidenced by the rust spots in the panel
sure, I'll email you the invoice.
@@electricalron😂 lmao, Ron ur hilarious!