This why electricians don’t post videos cause all the comments are a bunch of complainers and critics keep doing what you do bro no need to explain to them
Awesome, I have been doing electrical for 40 years and your knowledge for your short time in the field is superb. I've been a unrestricted electrical contractor in Atlanta since 2005 and I have a lot of guys with 20 years experience that wouldn't have a idea . Thanks
I appreciate the kind words. This was by no means a perfect install, but it’s functional. I would’ve done things differently if it wasn’t my own home. :-)
I'm pretty certain grounding bus bars and lugs are tin-plated aluminum. The tin-plating reduces corrosion potential and allows them to be dual rated. Additionally, they are "through" lugs with sufficient clamping force produced to overcome the mechanical issues arising from different coefficients of thermal expansion.
thanks for the video. the world is full skeptics. Your video gave me enough information to understand the value of having it doen by a licensed electrician.
Thanks for the update ! About 12:00 - "Flex is supposed to go ". It's actually the other way around. Generac install manual says: "Flexible fuel line must not be connected directly to generator fuel inlet. Always connect flexible fuel line to an approved gas fitting." The generator also has a built-in sediment trap, so there was no particular need for installing another one where they did. Maybe the extra sediment trap is for the copper line ... but that's strange to put it there. That flex pipe does indeed look unprofessional and Generac does says no kinks or bends are allowed ... though it's probably fine anyway.
That makes sense. I guess I was thinking about it from an electrical standpoint, any equipment that moves requires flex so it doesn’t break and short out. For that tank and the installation it was $3900, so I was definitely disappointed it didn’t look a little more professional.
Also, flexible gas line CANNOT penetrate an appliance, even with that grommet!! The walls are thinner than pipe and could easily be cut and cause a leak. Where it is is just fine.
I currently own my electrical business and you told it like it is. Materials are hard to get these days but always notify your electrical inspectors of this issue usually they will work with you and they know you are not trying to pull a fast one on them. Stay in good standing with your inspectors. They will respect you for it.
With respect to plastic bushings, why do you really need them if the pipe is plastic. It's not going to shred the wires. It seems redundant. Now for metal pipe with sharp threads, makes sense.
your gas looks ok generac provides a drip leg inside the case so no need for and external one also galvanized is a nono for gas, use rustolium gray oil based to paint your pipe, the twisting of the flex is just from over-tightening. otherwise its a real nice install
I bought a home and when I took possession, the generator was running. It made sense because the owner had disconnected the power before I took possession. I called the electric company and setup a new service. A few minutes after the service was connected, the generator turned off (make sense). After a few minutes, however, I lost power to the entire home. The generator didn't do anything, and I didn't have power. I called the electric company, and they confirmed the home had power. What could be the issue? Is it the transfer switch? ***** Troubleshooting I performed: I removed the panel from the generator, and the switch was on the "ON" position. I flipped it to "OFF" position, and the generator kicked back on and power was restored. I then returned the switch to the "ON" position, and the generator turned off. This time I didn't lose power to the home. ***** Appreciate your insight.
I was going to comment on your previous video but there were already plenty of inspectors on this job. The one thing you didn’t cover that is more than just a code technicality is torquing the terminals. My last ten years as an electrician was as a specialist doing check outs and commissioning of new installations and getting involved any time there was a failure or other problems in the large chemical plant where I worked. One of the things I did was infrared scanning of all the electrical equipment on our 100 acre site, from high voltage substations down to lighting panels in offices and research labs. I have found and repaired hundreds and hundreds of poor connections and 90%+ were the result of improper torquing. Everybody thinks they know how tight things need to be but I can prove that most of them don’t. Unless you routinely use a torque wrench and ratchet of the same length to get a feel for a particular value then you won’t be close. When I was doing construction we installed a lot of Allen Bradley motor control centers and we did a lot of buss bar splices and we got to where we could get very close but we still went back and checked every bolt. It’s pretty embarrassing when you have to shut down an entire production facility 2 days after a new switchgear install just because someone was too lazy or too stubborn to use a torque wrench on a connection. I personally will NEVER use aluminum for anything. Yes it can be used safely but compared to copper the expansion and contraction from heating and cooling is just too great for my taste. In my plant where we had almost 50 electricians, a couple of hundred contracted electricians, and a staff of about 30 electrical engineers we didn’t allow any aluminum wire anywhere for anything. Do yourself a favor, buy a torque wrench and use it.
Im just a regular joe about to install my generator. I planned on torquing all connections. Its in my nature though. I properly torque everything, including car lug nuts to oil drain bolts. Too loose is never a concern. Ive busted off a million bolts over tightening.
I installed a 20KW back in May myself. I am a homeowner and did 100% of the work myself with no help. I also replaced my old 100Amp panel with a 200Amp one myself. I will say that anyone who doesn't know what they are doing should not attempt to install one. But it is possible. I did tons of research, watched countless videos, read through instruction manuals and all kinds of charts to make sure I sized the wires correctly and it was a lot more work and time than it would have been for an electrician, but it was done well and my inspector complimented me on it. He was surprised when he found out that I am not an electrician and in fact work in healthcare. I also ran a feeder to the detached garage, I repiped my entire home with pex and manifold system, put in a new front door and side garage door including having to reframe it because the framing was messed up.
Way to be awesome! You did it the correct way, research first. I encourage folks to learn the trade, and I’m all for DIY everything. I just had to cover by behind. 😉
I earn a little more, and it’s less physical labor. I’m a superintendent and I manage the homes from slab to drywall completion. My job doesn’t require any license thankfully, I work for the fella that holds a CRC license.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead very informative thanks for taking time helping me, I think I'm gonna stay with electrical at least until I find a friend with a CRC license and give it try. Good luck I know dealing with various contractors can be stressing.
Just an apprentice here, but I work in Western Washington and I can confidently say whether your local jurisdiction requires it or not you should use noalox in any sort of damp or coastal area because there tends to be more risk of corrosion. Just my two cents
for home use i profere copper OF-CU at my work in a 3P industrialist setting AL most of the time but there to different applications , as most home owners are lazybones with electric maintenance and or upgrade's ect.
Amen on that! I used to be an electrician and saw many "homeowner" installations. The best I think was plastic wall anchors used to splice two wires together. On another note! Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Oh my! Yeah that’s why I hated service work, you never knew what you were going to get yourself into! Thank you sir, happy Thanksgiving to you as well.
My motto mother pluckers, is be honest, or be a politician. Around 65 now, retired carpenter/general. When I was young (Eric Burden & The Animals) an old timer “said exactly what you said”. Treat wires as though they are hot, one wire at a time, was a good idea. I’m glad you got away from it. I took two years of “low-volt” in school, I’m still having fun with electronics. Worked on a solar project or two, “to learn what a giant scam it is”. It’s good, but it’s not great, yet, just give us pesky humans time.
As a Houston Texas master electrician that is active . i always install Bushings , compound , and i do not run service conductors through other panels .Plus copper wire is always a plus .
1. can't use the tranfer switch like a raceway, its not to code dont matter what the inspector says. 2. noalax is not required when lugs are rated for copper/aluminum though
very good. watched yours and others, due to fact I will be installing a few within the next year & trying to pick up knowledge. I have done lots of electrical, including rewiring homes, but never put in a transfer box. I have put in gas line, but for heaters, stoves & water heaters. never for generator. I have 2 homes, & going to do 2 small units, 8K at each home, then I have 2 co-workers I said I would do installation, 1 wants a 24k, the other needs a 38k system, she refuses to give up comforts, presently use multiple generators backfeeding panel her husbands doing, & take rides around neighborhood every hour to see when neighbors get power on, to know to cut generator off & main breaker on.
Awesome, I see its still they still require it in Ohio, the install was clean and organized. Thanks for checking on all the comments. You answered all my questions. Thanks again.
I recently retired from my 45 year career as a Industrial Electrician. Seldom have I done any Residential or Commercial work . But I suggest you double check your Grounding Connections as the Code has changed quite a bit ( For a good reason) There are excellent Video's on You Tube explaining the latest Bonding and Grounding Code changes.
You can't run feeder conductor in a service raceway per NEC 230.7. You have the service conductors and the feeder conductors in the same pipe which clearly is a code violation.
noalox not required by code but read the transfer switch installation requirements and it is required by Generac and plastic bushings on pvc connectors
My generator install included mobile link. All I have ever gotten in trying to get it to work is a weak signal from the Generac which will not hook up to my Wi-Fi. I tried to get help from the Installation co.. Generac and Mobile Link. but got no response from any of them. I am paying extra for this service so why am I being ignored. Neighbor has same problem. Got any ideas how I might be able to solve the problem? Did not see any accounts of this problem in reviews I found prior to purchase. Seems there is no integrity left in the people who run these companies. for me I have to have oxygen respirators 24 hours a day to survive, and I can't trust the utility to react quickly enough in the event of an outage. Also, can't understand why the installation cost. 3 times more than the generator. Any advice would be appreciated.
We just had a 24kw Generac installed and our flex hose runs different than yours. We have a small black pipe coming out of the generator housing and then connects to the flex hose. Then the flex hose connects to the regulator and cutoff.
Love your video and this is the second time watching. One dealer states they would not and was told by Generac to lock out a heat pump because it would cause problem with the generator. They won't even do a delay start for a heat pump. What are your thoughts, was looking to get 24kw? Thanks.
Agree. No way I would try this. I prefer Kohler or Cummins as a standby. They are better. Generac isn’t junk but it’s not at the top. Except their continued advertisements. 🙄🙄🙄
i thought it was fun to watch someone else for a change have to wrestle those wires in place. why didnt you go with copper for those?? wouldnt it have been smaller at least then to use the aluminum biggies?
On your last video I made the comment if you did have a lock out plate on your panel. I now understand why you don’t need one the way you have wired the generator. Thanks this is good learning video. Thanks
Your inspector needs to go back to some training as you have a serious Code Violation (actually several) in your main panel, namely the Square D and Siemens Breakers in what appears to be a GE panel. (That should not have passed inspection.) (Actually, regardless of what brand that panel is, it is required that only listed breakers be used in that brand. ) Ref. 2017 NEC 110.3 (B) Installation and Use: " Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling." (that includes breakers, hubs, fittings, ground bars, etc. ) Thus, the only Code Compliant way to use mixed brands of breakers in a panel is IF and ONLY IF there is specific labeling which shows what other types/brands of breakers can be used. Those panels which allow mixed brands will always have a label inside the can or front cover which lists all types of breakers and accessories that are listed for use with that panel. Square D does not approve the use of their breakers in ANY other brand of panel. That voids all warranty AND the UL listing. Siemens IIRC allows certain other brands of breakers in their panels, but prohibits using their breakers in other brands' panels. ONLY GE breakers are rated and listed for use in GE panels. The main issue with using other than GE breakers in a GE panel is that the bus stabs in GE are thinner and have a smaller surface grip than others, so the SqD breakers in particular WILL break down at the bus connections and burn up. The other issue is if you should have a fire of electrical origin ANYWHERE in your house, you will have your insurance claim denied. So get those breakers changed out to the right ones ASAP. I have been on too many panel replacement jobs with burned up breakers and bus bars due to the wrong brand being used. Other than that, overall a good installation that is otherwise safe and serviceable.
Man you hit my pet peeve. I retired from Siemens and in our area they mix and match all the time. Voids UL, Voids warranty, if there is a failure and house catches on fire the vendor is not responsible. It is a serious issue. I blame the inspectors. I certainly blame our inspectors they should know better.
You can wire nut aluminum to copper . ideal 30-165 are the wire nuts to connector the 2 metals, tho i wouldn't do it in the panel just because its ugly.
Your videos on the generator install were very helpfull in my generator install. Your information and the input from the folks at Cresent Electric made it go smooth for me. Thank you.
Neutral / Grounding bars are also an aluminum alloy just like the modern cables and are tin plated which prevents corrosion even when used with copper conductors.
It is almost impossible to keep those flex lines straight, with no twist or bind, as that happens on the final few turns of the nut onto the flare fitting. As others have stated, code states no flex line through a cabinet. This is to keep vibration from cutting through the "thin" material of the flex. Black iron pipe would not be effected by vibration.
Ok thanks for the explanation! I’m definitely not a gas guy. I did wonder however why they used galvanized pipe instead of black iron pipe. I’ve always heard the galvanized coating will break down and end up going into the engine/appliances. Is that true?
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead I am not sure of the specifics on using galv pipe instead of bi for gas, never used anything but bi. Looks like a small amount of it, so either hve them come back and replace it or replace it yourself, in my opinion.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead The little that would come off the pipe won't matter much. The galvi only corrodes in the presence of water over the years. The gas should be fine and will stop the exterior corrosion. BI outdoors will look horrible in no time flat.
First let me say this the ones who said anything negative are well full of them selfs your job not only looks great I am following it step by step to hook up my own exact same gen and want to say thank you because where I live getting anyone to come out to do this is almost next to impossible and the one con man that did say he come do it wanted 3600 to do it look it's not rocket science although not easy as well only thing I'm doing different is I just took my 200 amp main out and replaced it with the auto 200 amp I even just turned it back on even though I hadn't hooked up generator yet I plan on doing that this next week so hey I want to say this thanks to you not only did I save 3600 I learned something new so thanks for taking the time to show us idiots how to do something right and your right about the things needed 4 hardware stores had do same thing and like u I haven't heard one real answer why like osb use to buy for 10 now 40 what bull
GENERAC, ARE NO BETTER THAN THE JUNK YOU CAN BUY ANYWHERE, THEY ALL OPERATE AT3600 RPM, WHY? Because they ALL use cheap 2 pole generators,,to get the voltage and HERTZ, I own a bent connecting rod from an 7 month GENERAC, not mine, 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
The other violation on your 21/2 TAs is the side entry without Myers hubs those enclosures are no longer weather tight. Your installation would never pass in the northeast hate to say it but get better.
Myers is a brand. The NEC doesn't mention any brand any place. Entries below live equipment aren't required to be rain tight. Myers Hubs (or any other type) aren't required or necessary.
My only question on the nipple, is it overfilled? Pretty sure max fill rate for a nipple like that is 60% and regular conduit is 40%. Depends on the wire type, insulation, and gauge, per NEC. I’m not an electrician, but I grew up with one. Like the videos, planning to build and go with a similar setup. Keep up the good work.
Looks like you sent unprotected lines from meter to main breaker thru a sub panel. That's a big NO NO . You can not use a sub panel as a chase before a main breaker. If an inspector let this go he is wrong.
@@thomasmarable6818 let's look at 312.8 / 312.8 A [ 3 ] the feed thru conductors must be tagged to identify the closest disconnecting means . you can not do this because they have no disconnecting means. 312.8A says you must do all the following to be able to run feed thru conductors in your panel.
My situation here in Washington state is a bit different. My meter is on a pole 100' from my house. There's a disconnect on the pole with the meter that cuts power to the property. I have an outside panel on a waist high post about 4' from the house. This receives power from the meter and distributes it to the house, outbuildings, pump, septic, shop, etc. My generator transfer switch is on the side of the house near the outside panel and generator. I have to route the power infeed cables from the distribution panel to the transfer switch and back to the distribution panel. This will necessitate either splicing the main power cables or a box to allow connections. There doesn't appear to be a simple, straightforward, and inexpensive way to make this installation. I'm quite comfortable with doing 90% of this job. It's the 10% of the splice/connection box that has me concerned. I can put everything in place and run the appropriate wires/conductors confidently in conduit and LiquidTite Flex. How do you recommend the "splice/extension" be done for the incoming lines from the remote meter? Any help is appreciated even if it is direction to applicable information. Local electricians aren't a good resource as they simply want me to pay them to make the connection. If I must, I must. Thank you.
What’s sad! Really sad is you made this video to satisfy the granola eaters and scared people who have no skills in doing anything for themselves or are just flat dangerous in even changing a lightbulb! You did a great job and I was able to do mine with watching your videos and I passed my final inspection easy pezy!
I appreciate the support my friend! The granola eaters will beat you up if you ain’t careful, I caved in lol! I do plan on making some basic electrical tutorials when I wire my barn. I want people to be self sufficient and be able to do things themselves, just don’t want newbies to get hurt. There are too many sue happy idiots in the world today, so I had to cover my backside. Thanks for always watching, hope you had a great Thanksgiving!
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead I hear you but I don’t care what the cry babies say or think and if they hurt themselves or worse it’s on them, not you! You are very competent and they are not, let ‘em fry! 😂 ya we had a great thanksgiving and hope you guys did as well. I installed fog lights on my car from watching a UA-cam video! I did not get hurt either! 😆
Thank you for your videos. I really enjoyed them. Installed my 24kw earlier this month. Your videos were a good reference tool for me to verify a few things... Thanks again and God bless!!!
My Wife and I are about to have our Generac Propane powered generator installed as soon as it get in. Since our gas line will run off our 500 gal tank, the company that owns that tank will have to Install the gas line to the generator if I'm not mistaken. I was not sure if your gas supply was Natural gas or Propane but I heard you say that you got another company to install that so that's leading me to believe you have Natural gas as the supply. Thanks for the video. You are very knowledgeable on the Electric side of it.
Hey boss. One question, I tried to turn on a Generac 24 Wk generator but it didn't turn on, I thought it was the battery. and it says ready to turn on but it doesn't make a noise click
if your ground bar is al/cu compatible which most are its ok to mix attach them but never splice , same with no lox if the lug being used isnt al rated you should use nolox
At about 4:00, asking about CU ground wires landed in an AL ground bar. One answer is that these CU conductors do not routinely carry current, so electrolysis is not an issue. Also, if it was my home, I'd put a piece of Counterstrike between the regulator and the El. Since I am old school, I might re-pipe it without street Els.
I may be all wet and maybe it is not a concern in your particular area, but with the 2 Generacs that I have had installed, I had to maintain 3 meters (10 feet) from the gas regulator, one propane, one natural gas. Thoughts?
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead Thanks for the videos. The regulator is considered a fuel source and is supposed to be 5' away from the generator, however, you you remove the screen and install tubing or pipe into the threaded vent on the regulator you can move that 5' away and be fine. Replace the screen at the end of the pvc vent pipe to keep insects out. If you split a diaphragm, you don't want propane to ignite from the ignition system nor do you want the genny to over speed because it got a big gulp of gas.
The gas flex being twisted is unsightly but not critical. Again you DIDN'T read the manual. That reg needs to be 5-6' away from the appliance so that it can regulate pressure correctly. This is an engine and not a BBQ. So all the talk about bushings and wire goo...blah blah blah. You clearly didn't read the installation manual. If you would have put the reg further away you wouldn't have had to bury the reg vent which is kinda hack and asking for trouble when it cracks and fills with water. You also need to go back and run the proper stranded 18 gauge control wire. Of course you tried to save a few pennies but using that and you spent more time running the second conduit for no reason. You literally can run one tray cable with all the correct wires in one conduit. But hey penny wise and pound foolish. All of this is what you get from guys that "install" generators. Yep looks like another expert out in the field showing everyone how to do it.
Says the fella watching how to videos on UA-cam and leaving rude comments. I hired a gas company to do the gas install. They installed two separate regulators on the system.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead yeah I'm actually a tech out fixing everyone else's garbage installs as usual. So that has no relevance on my comments. Try again... READ DA MANUAL
This why electricians don’t post videos cause all the comments are a bunch of complainers and critics keep doing what you do bro no need to explain to them
Hahaha thanks buddy! The UA-cam electrical inspectors are brutal that’s for sure. I know it’s not perfect but it works just fine. :-)
@@MaynardFamilyHomesteadlol I knew about the aluminum wire but I still use the grease lol that’s my name for it. 😊
Aluminum and steel react but Aluminum and copper not so much. I cast Aluminum bronze which is Copper and Aluminum mix and melted together.
INHOUSTON TEXASPLASTIC BUSHINGS ARENT REQUIREDVON PVC PIPE
You are not required to use bushings on pvc , but yes you are require to use it on size 4 and larger .
Awesome, I have been doing electrical for 40 years and your knowledge for your short time in the field is superb. I've been a unrestricted electrical contractor in Atlanta since 2005 and I have a lot of guys with 20 years experience that wouldn't have a idea . Thanks
I appreciate the kind words. This was by no means a perfect install, but it’s functional. I would’ve done things differently if it wasn’t my own home. :-)
I'm pretty certain grounding bus bars and lugs are tin-plated aluminum. The tin-plating reduces corrosion potential and allows them to be dual rated. Additionally, they are "through" lugs with sufficient clamping force produced to overcome the mechanical issues arising from different coefficients of thermal expansion.
Anytime you use aluminum you need to use kernel grease
Know nothings go online to criticize and pretend that they know something
That was a good point on the iluminum lugs and copper wires!
thanks for the video. the world is full skeptics. Your video gave me enough information to understand the value of having it doen by a licensed electrician.
Thanks for the update !
About 12:00 - "Flex is supposed to go ". It's actually the other way around.
Generac install manual says: "Flexible fuel line must not be connected directly to generator fuel inlet. Always connect flexible fuel line to an approved gas fitting."
The generator also has a built-in sediment trap, so there was no particular need for installing another one where they did. Maybe the extra sediment trap is for the copper line ... but that's strange to put it there.
That flex pipe does indeed look unprofessional and Generac does says no kinks or bends are allowed ... though it's probably fine anyway.
That makes sense. I guess I was thinking about it from an electrical standpoint, any equipment that moves requires flex so it doesn’t break and short out. For that tank and the installation it was $3900, so I was definitely disappointed it didn’t look a little more professional.
Also, flexible gas line CANNOT penetrate an appliance, even with that grommet!! The walls are thinner than pipe and could easily be cut and cause a leak.
Where it is is just fine.
I currently own my electrical business and you told it like it is. Materials are hard to get these days but always notify your electrical inspectors of this issue usually they will work with you and they know you are not trying to pull a fast one on them. Stay in good standing with your inspectors. They will respect you for it.
This brings out all the electrical knowledge. Especially if you're doing residential 🤣
who the hell picks apart an install over a bushing... like 30% of them arent cut and put on afterwards anyway lol
Especially on a PVC male adapter lol!
With respect to plastic bushings, why do you really need them if the pipe is plastic. It's not going to shred the wires. It seems redundant. Now for metal pipe with sharp threads, makes sense.
I totally agree.
your gas looks ok generac provides a drip leg inside the case so no need for and external one also galvanized is a nono for gas, use rustolium gray oil based to paint your pipe, the twisting of the flex is just from over-tightening. otherwise its a real nice install
You should use poly-coated stainless steel outdoor flex line for the gas such as Easyflex Yellow Coated Stainless Steel 3/4" MIP x 3/4" FIP Full Flow
The flex line is provided by Generac. It is the only flex line approved. The yellow one is not approved.
It's due to dissimilar metals not just oxidation. Copper, aluminum and steel will cause corrosion when it contact with each other.
I bought a home and when I took possession, the generator was running. It made sense because the owner had disconnected the power before I took possession.
I called the electric company and setup a new service. A few minutes after the service was connected, the generator turned off (make sense). After a few minutes, however, I lost power to the entire home. The generator didn't do anything, and I didn't have power. I called the electric company, and they confirmed the home had power. What could be the issue? Is it the transfer switch?
*****
Troubleshooting I performed:
I removed the panel from the generator, and the switch was on the "ON" position. I flipped it to "OFF" position, and the generator kicked back on and power was restored. I then returned the switch to the "ON" position, and the generator turned off. This time I didn't lose power to the home.
*****
Appreciate your insight.
I was going to comment on your previous video but there were already plenty of inspectors on this job. The one thing you didn’t cover that is more than just a code technicality is torquing the terminals. My last ten years as an electrician was as a specialist doing check outs and commissioning of new installations and getting involved any time there was a failure or other problems in the large chemical plant where I worked. One of the things I did was infrared scanning of all the electrical equipment on our 100 acre site, from high voltage substations down to lighting panels in offices and research labs. I have found and repaired hundreds and hundreds of poor connections and 90%+ were the result of improper torquing. Everybody thinks they know how tight things need to be but I can prove that most of them don’t. Unless you routinely use a torque wrench and ratchet of the same length to get a feel for a particular value then you won’t be close. When I was doing construction we installed a lot of Allen Bradley motor control centers and we did a lot of buss bar splices and we got to where we could get very close but we still went back and checked every bolt. It’s pretty embarrassing when you have to shut down an entire production facility 2 days after a new switchgear install just because someone was too lazy or too stubborn to use a torque wrench on a connection. I personally will NEVER use aluminum for anything. Yes it can be used safely but compared to copper the expansion and contraction from heating and cooling is just too great for my taste. In my plant where we had almost 50 electricians, a couple of hundred contracted electricians, and a staff of about 30 electrical engineers we didn’t allow any aluminum wire anywhere for anything. Do yourself a favor, buy a torque wrench and use it.
Im just a regular joe about to install my generator. I planned on torquing all connections. Its in my nature though. I properly torque everything, including car lug nuts to oil drain bolts. Too loose is never a concern. Ive busted off a million bolts over tightening.
Its code on torquing now so if inspector dont see a torque tool on site he not ok about it.
@ 5:45 - Your way looks SOOOOOOOO much better!
I installed a 20KW back in May myself. I am a homeowner and did 100% of the work myself with no help. I also replaced my old 100Amp panel with a 200Amp one myself. I will say that anyone who doesn't know what they are doing should not attempt to install one. But it is possible. I did tons of research, watched countless videos, read through instruction manuals and all kinds of charts to make sure I sized the wires correctly and it was a lot more work and time than it would have been for an electrician, but it was done well and my inspector complimented me on it. He was surprised when he found out that I am not an electrician and in fact work in healthcare. I also ran a feeder to the detached garage, I repiped my entire home with pex and manifold system, put in a new front door and side garage door including having to reframe it because the framing was messed up.
Way to be awesome! You did it the correct way, research first. I encourage folks to learn the trade, and I’m all for DIY everything. I just had to cover by behind. 😉
Jessie…that’s impressive. My primary question is were you not worried about voiding the warranty ?
@@BrianD-ds4dx lol. I didn't void the warranty.
Have you also connected solar panels together with the generator?
Not yet, I hope to soon!
The "ums" got annoying. Otherwise good video
I like that profile pic, “The suck zone”. 😜
Gotta get those nose hair trimmers it’s distracting me 😂
That’s my retractable mustache.
why not place your propane tank underground ? (with a marker) ... safer ? ...
I wanted to, but an underground tank was an additional $1000.
got a shovel ?(save a $thousand) ... it's the same tank .. I done it ...
You earning better pay going from electrician to a home builder? and what licence are required to be a home builder? Thanks
I earn a little more, and it’s less physical labor. I’m a superintendent and I manage the homes from slab to drywall completion. My job doesn’t require any license thankfully, I work for the fella that holds a CRC license.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead very informative thanks for taking time helping me, I think I'm gonna stay with electrical at least until I find a friend with a CRC license and give it try. Good luck I know dealing with various contractors can be stressing.
After researching a few different residential generators i have decided on a Kohler.
Just an apprentice here, but I work in Western Washington and I can confidently say whether your local jurisdiction requires it or not you should use noalox in any sort of damp or coastal area because there tends to be more risk of corrosion. Just my two cents
for home use i profere copper OF-CU at my work in a 3P industrialist setting AL most of the time but there to different applications , as most home owners are lazybones with electric maintenance and or upgrade's ect.
Good 2 cents
Flexible gas lines can’t penetrate through steal cabinets. That flex line is perfectly acceptable outside.
OK cool, that is good to know!
Steal? Really? Lol
Powder coated aluminum, not steel.
I would have put a complete LOOP in the flexible pipe in the gas connecton instead of a short straight length of flexible pipe.
Amen on that! I used to be an electrician and saw many "homeowner" installations. The best I think was plastic wall anchors used to splice two wires together. On another note! Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Oh my! Yeah that’s why I hated service work, you never knew what you were going to get yourself into!
Thank you sir, happy Thanksgiving to you as well.
My motto mother pluckers, is be honest, or be a politician. Around 65 now, retired carpenter/general.
When I was young (Eric Burden & The Animals) an old timer “said exactly what you said”. Treat wires as though they are hot, one wire at a time, was a good idea. I’m glad you got away from it. I took two years of “low-volt” in school, I’m still having fun with electronics. Worked on a solar project or two, “to learn what a giant scam it is”.
It’s good, but it’s not great, yet, just give us pesky humans time.
Flex gas pipe can’t be run into generators or furnaces
As a Houston Texas master electrician that is active . i always install Bushings , compound , and i do not run service conductors through other panels .Plus copper wire is always a plus .
1. can't use the tranfer switch like a raceway, its not to code dont matter what the inspector says.
2. noalax is not required when lugs are rated for copper/aluminum though
very good. watched yours and others, due to fact I will be installing a few within the next year & trying to pick up knowledge.
I have done lots of electrical, including rewiring homes, but never put in a transfer box. I have put in gas line, but for heaters, stoves & water heaters. never for generator.
I have 2 homes, & going to do 2 small units, 8K at each home, then I have 2 co-workers I said I would do installation, 1 wants a 24k, the other needs a 38k system, she refuses to give up comforts, presently use multiple generators backfeeding panel her husbands doing, & take rides around neighborhood every hour to see when neighbors get power on, to know to cut generator off & main breaker on.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your comments on this generator installation project. Much appreciated 👍 12:56
Great video sir. What is the
AC1/AC2/AC3/AC4 low volt connections for in the transfer switch?
Awesome, I see its still they still require it in Ohio, the install was clean and organized. Thanks for checking on all the comments. You answered all my questions. Thanks again.
I recently retired from my 45 year career as a Industrial Electrician. Seldom have I done any Residential or Commercial work . But I suggest you double check your Grounding Connections as the Code has changed quite a bit ( For a good reason) There are excellent Video's on You Tube explaining the latest Bonding and Grounding Code changes.
You can't run feeder conductor in a service raceway per NEC 230.7. You have the service conductors and the feeder conductors in the same pipe which clearly is a code violation.
noalox not required by code but read the transfer switch installation requirements and it is required by Generac and plastic bushings on pvc connectors
My generator install included mobile link. All I have ever gotten in trying to get it to work is a weak signal from the Generac which will not hook up to my Wi-Fi. I tried to get help from the Installation co.. Generac and Mobile Link. but got no response from any of them. I am paying extra for this service so why am I being ignored. Neighbor has same problem. Got any ideas how I might be able to solve the problem? Did not see any accounts of this problem in reviews I found prior to purchase. Seems there is no integrity left in the people who run these companies.
for me I have to have oxygen respirators 24 hours a day to survive, and I can't trust the utility to react quickly enough in the event of an outage. Also, can't understand why the installation cost. 3 times more than the generator. Any advice would be appreciated.
We just had a 24kw Generac installed and our flex hose runs different than yours. We have a small black pipe coming out of the generator housing and then connects to the flex hose. Then the flex hose connects to the regulator and cutoff.
That sounds like the proper way to install it.
Love your video and this is the second time watching. One dealer states they would not and was told by Generac to lock out a heat pump because it would cause problem with the generator. They won't even do a delay start for a heat pump. What are your thoughts, was looking to get 24kw? Thanks.
You learn something every day. No de-ox is a much cleaner job, that's for sure.
One rule to follow , never take ANYONES word that the circuit is dead check it YOURSELF !!
Exactly. Just like with firearms, never assume it’s unloaded.
But I text that on your other videoI'm late just watching this but I hook 30 off these up so easy
Live power=safety glasss. Skin heals, eyes don't😁
Agree. No way I would try this. I prefer Kohler or Cummins as a standby. They are better. Generac isn’t junk but it’s not at the top. Except their continued advertisements. 🙄🙄🙄
there should be a sediment drop for the gas line inside the generator. That may neaten things up bit.
the connectors and lugs are al/cu approved thats why you can use copper and aluminum
Those lugs are rated for copper or (AL/CU).
i thought it was fun to watch someone else for a change have to wrestle those wires in place. why didnt you go with copper for those?? wouldnt it have been smaller at least then to use the aluminum biggies?
TMI, cut the rambling and get to the points of your presentation.
My Honeywell came with a rubber flex hose that I installed into gen direct for any vibration from the unit.
On your last video I made the comment if you did have a lock out plate on your panel. I now understand why you don’t need one the way you have wired the generator. Thanks this is good learning video. Thanks
You dont have to wear an ARC Flash suit for 200 amp house main. just 1000V gloves...and dont need those cause you should not work on it hot.
Your inspector needs to go back to some training as you have a serious Code Violation (actually several) in your main panel, namely the Square D and Siemens Breakers in what appears to be a GE panel. (That should not have passed inspection.) (Actually, regardless of what brand that panel is, it is required that only listed breakers be used in that brand. ) Ref. 2017 NEC 110.3 (B) Installation and Use: " Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling." (that includes breakers, hubs, fittings, ground bars, etc. )
Thus, the only Code Compliant way to use mixed brands of breakers in a panel is IF and ONLY IF there is specific labeling which shows what other types/brands of breakers can be used. Those panels which allow mixed brands will always have a label inside the can or front cover which lists all types of breakers and accessories that are listed for use with that panel.
Square D does not approve the use of their breakers in ANY other brand of panel. That voids all warranty AND the UL listing. Siemens IIRC allows certain other brands of breakers in their panels, but prohibits using their breakers in other brands' panels. ONLY GE breakers are rated and listed for use in GE panels.
The main issue with using other than GE breakers in a GE panel is that the bus stabs in GE are thinner and have a smaller surface grip than others, so the SqD breakers in particular WILL break down at the bus connections and burn up.
The other issue is if you should have a fire of electrical origin ANYWHERE in your house, you will have your insurance claim denied.
So get those breakers changed out to the right ones ASAP. I have been on too many panel replacement jobs with burned up breakers and bus bars due to the wrong brand being used.
Other than that, overall a good installation that is otherwise safe and serviceable.
I was about to mention that as well.
Great comment. Also from the looks of it, there are too many conductors running through the conduit and male adapters into the transfer switch.
Man you hit my pet peeve. I retired from Siemens and in our area they mix and match all the time. Voids UL, Voids warranty, if there is a failure and house catches on fire the vendor is not responsible. It is a serious issue. I blame the inspectors. I certainly blame our inspectors they should know better.
Or larger needs bushing
Yea I'll just pay an electrician to do this install, I am not even going to attempt this,
cant run both because there will be transduction or the possiblity to have power transfered past the fuse
Which panel should of had the earth ground and neutral all together with adding the TS.
Does the 24 kw generator run your hold house including the air conditioning
Yes it does, and doesn’t even bog. It is a great machine.
Have been doing electrical work for over 30yrs. Thought your video was good. Thanks
Thank you!
You can wire nut aluminum to copper . ideal 30-165 are the wire nuts to connector the 2 metals, tho i wouldn't do it in the panel just because its ugly.
Per Generac install instructions the flex specifically does _not_ go into the generator and the flex must be horizontal. It is correct as you have it.
Am I the only one that never put plastic bushing on plastic pipe lol. That’s the way I was always taught.
Depends on who you ask, some UA-cam electricians think it will burn your house down if you don’t. 😜
I treat electrical like a firearm, as if it is loaded or hot. Your pointing and touching of internals for this video concerns me.
wiring is not a hobby. most lugs for home panels are dual rated for AL and CU
what torque are those lugs torqued to? code requires it
What are the unfused conductors in the raceway?
I knew license electrician that did not do what there doing
Really appreciate the time and positive energy.
Your videos on the generator install were very helpfull in my generator install. Your information and the input from the folks at Cresent Electric made it go smooth for me. Thank you.
Wow, thank you so much! I’m glad they were helpful, and I appreciate you watching them.
Those ground bars are tin plated copper.
Neutral / Grounding bars are also an aluminum alloy just like the modern cables and are tin plated which prevents corrosion even when used with copper conductors.
It is almost impossible to keep those flex lines straight, with no twist or bind, as that happens on the final few turns of the nut onto the flare fitting.
As others have stated, code states no flex line through a cabinet. This is to keep vibration from cutting through the "thin" material of the flex. Black iron pipe would not be effected by vibration.
Ok thanks for the explanation! I’m definitely not a gas guy. I did wonder however why they used galvanized pipe instead of black iron pipe. I’ve always heard the galvanized coating will break down and end up going into the engine/appliances. Is that true?
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead
I am not sure of the specifics on using galv pipe instead of bi for gas, never used anything but bi.
Looks like a small amount of it, so either hve them come back and replace it or replace it yourself, in my opinion.
@@jrsmyth9761 I think I will. Thanks!
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead The little that would come off the pipe won't matter much. The galvi only corrodes in the presence of water over the years. The gas should be fine and will stop the exterior corrosion. BI outdoors will look horrible in no time flat.
@@steven7650
Any exposed or buried black iron should be painted/wrapped accordingly.
Propane is quite "wet" compared to natural gas.
Noalox is used for 2 dissimilar metals. Al to Al or cu to cu , you don’t need grease
I though aluminum wire had been abandoned.
First let me say this the ones who said anything negative are well full of them selfs your job not only looks great I am following it step by step to hook up my own exact same gen and want to say thank you because where I live getting anyone to come out to do this is almost next to impossible and the one con man that did say he come do it wanted 3600 to do it look it's not rocket science although not easy as well only thing I'm doing different is I just took my 200 amp main out and replaced it with the auto 200 amp I even just turned it back on even though I hadn't hooked up generator yet I plan on doing that this next week so hey I want to say this thanks to you not only did I save 3600 I learned something new so thanks for taking the time to show us idiots how to do something right and your right about the things needed 4 hardware stores had do same thing and like u I haven't heard one real answer why like osb use to buy for 10 now 40 what bull
Yes never line and load in the same pipe or they a chase
De ox saves the lugs I put a little in the back of the lug and dip the lug allen bolt so the threads have a thin coating
GENERAC, ARE NO BETTER THAN THE JUNK YOU CAN BUY ANYWHERE, THEY ALL OPERATE AT3600 RPM, WHY? Because they ALL use cheap 2 pole generators,,to get the voltage and HERTZ, I own a bent connecting rod from an 7 month GENERAC, not mine, 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Unfortunately everything is junk these days. Everything is disposable.
The other violation on your 21/2 TAs is the side entry without Myers hubs those enclosures are no longer weather tight. Your installation would never pass in the northeast hate to say it but get better.
Not required in the bottom third of cabinet.
Thats per NEC not any code fron local authority
Myers is a brand. The NEC doesn't mention any brand any place. Entries below live equipment aren't required to be rain tight. Myers Hubs (or any other type) aren't required or necessary.
Lugs marked CU/AL or AL/CU are an alloy that can use copper or aluminum conductors.
My only question on the nipple, is it overfilled? Pretty sure max fill rate for a nipple like that is 60% and regular conduit is 40%. Depends on the wire type, insulation, and gauge, per NEC. I’m not an electrician, but I grew up with one. Like the videos, planning to build and go with a similar setup. Keep up the good work.
My conduit fill calculating is a little rusty, but my figuring had it very close to 60%.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead it is a nipple fill not required on short nipples
Not to use Galvanized fittings on Propane can flake off.
Looks like you sent unprotected lines from meter to main breaker thru a sub
panel. That's a big NO NO . You can not use a sub panel as a chase before
a main breaker. If an inspector let this go he is wrong.
312.8
Look at that
@@thomasmarable6818 let's look at 312.8 / 312.8 A [ 3 ]
the feed thru conductors must be tagged to identify the
closest disconnecting means . you can not do this because
they have no disconnecting means. 312.8A says you must do
all the following to be able to run feed thru conductors in your
panel.
Number 4
ok then wot about a valve radeio if i play with it?
Thank you for your Generac videos, will be getting one.
Thanks for watching!
My situation here in Washington state is a bit different. My meter is on a pole 100' from my house. There's a disconnect on the pole with the meter that cuts power to the property. I have an outside panel on a waist high post about 4' from the house. This receives power from the meter and distributes it to the house, outbuildings, pump, septic, shop, etc. My generator transfer switch is on the side of the house near the outside panel and generator. I have to route the power infeed cables from the distribution panel to the transfer switch and back to the distribution panel. This will necessitate either splicing the main power cables or a box to allow connections. There doesn't appear to be a simple, straightforward, and inexpensive way to make this installation. I'm quite comfortable with doing 90% of this job. It's the 10% of the splice/connection box that has me concerned. I can put everything in place and run the appropriate wires/conductors confidently in conduit and LiquidTite Flex. How do you recommend the "splice/extension" be done for the incoming lines from the remote meter? Any help is appreciated even if it is direction to applicable information. Local electricians aren't a good resource as they simply want me to pay them to make the connection. If I must, I must. Thank you.
What’s sad! Really sad is you made this video to satisfy the granola eaters and scared people who have no skills in doing anything for themselves or are just flat dangerous in even changing a lightbulb! You did a great job and I was able to do mine with watching your videos and I passed my final inspection easy pezy!
I appreciate the support my friend! The granola eaters will beat you up if you ain’t careful, I caved in lol! I do plan on making some basic electrical tutorials when I wire my barn. I want people to be self sufficient and be able to do things themselves, just don’t want newbies to get hurt.
There are too many sue happy idiots in the world today, so I had to cover my backside. Thanks for always watching, hope you had a great Thanksgiving!
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead I hear you but I don’t care what the cry babies say or think and if they hurt themselves or worse it’s on them, not you! You are very competent and they are not, let ‘em fry! 😂 ya we had a great thanksgiving and hope you guys did as well. I installed fog lights on my car from watching a UA-cam video! I did not get hurt either! 😆
@@Ricko1962 hahaha good deal!
Thank you for your videos. I really enjoyed them. Installed my 24kw earlier this month. Your videos were a good reference tool for me to verify a few things... Thanks again and God bless!!!
Awesome, glad to hear that! God bless you too!
My Wife and I are about to have our Generac Propane powered generator installed as soon as it get in. Since our gas line will run off our 500 gal tank, the company that owns that tank will have to Install the gas line to the generator if I'm not mistaken. I was not sure if your gas supply was Natural gas or Propane but I heard you say that you got another company to install that so that's leading me to believe you have Natural gas as the supply. Thanks for the video. You are very knowledgeable on the Electric side of it.
Hey boss. One question, I tried to turn on a Generac 24 Wk generator but it didn't turn on, I thought it was the battery. and it says ready to turn on but it doesn't make a noise click
Sorry kw
Do the 2,5 "nipples connecting the three panels carrying your 3/0 wiring require a grounding collar? Great video, very informative.
if your ground bar is al/cu compatible which most are its ok to mix attach them but never splice , same with no lox if the lug being used isnt al rated you should use nolox
You crossed an unfused line and load.
At about 4:00, asking about CU ground wires landed in an AL ground bar. One answer is that these CU conductors do not routinely carry current, so electrolysis is not an issue.
Also, if it was my home, I'd put a piece of Counterstrike between the regulator and the El. Since I am old school, I might re-pipe it without street Els.
I may be all wet and maybe it is not a concern in your particular area, but with the 2 Generacs that I have had installed, I had to maintain 3 meters (10 feet) from the gas regulator, one propane, one natural gas. Thoughts?
You’re not crazy, that’s code here as well. The tank is about 15’ from the house and 10’ from the generator.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead Thanks for the videos. The regulator is considered a fuel source and is supposed to be 5' away from the generator, however, you you remove the screen and install tubing or pipe into the threaded vent on the regulator you can move that 5' away and be fine. Replace the screen at the end of the pvc vent pipe to keep insects out. If you split a diaphragm, you don't want propane to ignite from the ignition system nor do you want the genny to over speed because it got a big gulp of gas.
The gas flex being twisted is unsightly but not critical. Again you DIDN'T read the manual. That reg needs to be 5-6' away from the appliance so that it can regulate pressure correctly. This is an engine and not a BBQ.
So all the talk about bushings and wire goo...blah blah blah. You clearly didn't read the installation manual.
If you would have put the reg further away you wouldn't have had to bury the reg vent which is kinda hack and asking for trouble when it cracks and fills with water.
You also need to go back and run the proper stranded 18 gauge control wire.
Of course you tried to save a few pennies but using that and you spent more time running the second conduit for no reason.
You literally can run one tray cable with all the correct wires in one conduit. But hey penny wise and pound foolish.
All of this is what you get from guys that "install" generators. Yep looks like another expert out in the field showing everyone how to do it.
Says the fella watching how to videos on UA-cam and leaving rude comments. I hired a gas company to do the gas install. They installed two separate regulators on the system.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead yeah I'm actually a tech out fixing everyone else's garbage installs as usual. So that has no relevance on my comments. Try again...
READ DA MANUAL