You did a very good job, ez to watch! You don’t have a bunch of crap. I also was waiting to see if you would pick up on moving the ground as first means of disconnect has changed. Great job. I would probably tighten the wires the same as you. But if you have a picky inspector, he may want to see your toque wrench. And maybe the Noax. I myself would just have the toque wrench laying there. I’m an industrial electrician of 45+ years. And we need new blood like you in the trade. Again very goof job!!!
Dude thank u. I been doing commercial work most of my life. Shopping centers pretty much. But I've now started my own business n this video helped me sooooo much, especially on the wire for controls... Thanks my guy u saved the day for this man!! I owe u
Thank you sir, I greatly appreciate it! I’m glad to be of help. I was actually a commercial guy myself I never did a ton of residential stuff. I did do a lot of service on generators but only did a couple installs prior. If I can do it you can definitely do it. It’s not as fun as MC cable and EMT, but it’s very easy.
what is the reason for going directly to the meter for the power. you can't come off from that breaker in the middle panel for your power running to the disconnect ? Just curious. Thanks....
Nice job two things I would like to input working for FP&L for 38 years you always want to wire brush the AL wire and put an inhibitor on the wire to stop corrosion.
Wow dude. I've been installing these for a few months now. On a crew. I normally set up the generator pad and the gas. But now cause of your video I understand the transfer switch.
This is why I love You Tube! By installing this on You Tube you opened yourself up to a lot of criticism but I thought the video was excellent! While watching your video, I had the Generac manual opened on my computer in another "window" and went back and forth to follow your install. Although my install will be a little different coming from a 200amp service with breakers, the concept is basically the same. I'm getting ready to build a new home in NW FL and have ordered a 24kw Generac and was interested how the new ones were installed. I installed a Generac Guardian at my other house in 2006 and had to separate each circuit I wanted emergency power from the panel to the transfer switch. Talk about a lot of wiring/nuts. Anyway, excellent job!!!
Wow, I really appreciate the kind words! Yeah I have second-guessed myself a few times on whether it was a good idea LOL! Oh that’s electricians always think we know the best way of doing things, and are probably some of the most arrogant people on earth LOL! Good luck on your install buddy, and thanks for watching our video
Dan, why on earth did you buy such a massive unit?! Bigger is not better. I've lived in Florida my entire life as a small engine mechanic and have personally been without power for 3 months during the summer, and I would never recommend such a huge unit to an average homeowner. The fuel cost is outrageous for large units. If you are running propane with buried tank, you have less than 7 days worth of fuel. And you cant buy any more, in Florida, during a hurricane, for at least 3 weeks. The entire state sells out of propane for about 3 weeks at a time. If its a long extended outage, you will basically get 5-7 days worth of electricity, and then no more electricity after that until the power comes back on. The sweet spot for an average house is about 14K watt generator for a hole home , and about a 5000 watt generator if you use a portable with window AC units.
@@bubbatime Hey Scott, NG generator and originally going with a 22kw but the 24k was only $300.00 more. In NW Fl, we have lost power to many times to count due to hurricanes and tropical storms. Can't beat a Generac!!!!
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead I don't think it's arrogance (okay, maybe a FEW of them), as much as experienced electricians have already made the mistakes and learned from them. I asked a bunch of questions in my comment, because you may have different regs to comply with in your state, compared to others, and I didn't want to assume anything. But anytime I can help someone (like the "best practices" I mentioned in my comment, about the lugs and torque wrench) with something I've learned from years of work and fails, I'll help.
@@ChatGPT1111 great question -- I can say that the circular water flow down a drain does rotate the opposite direction as compared to the northern hemisphere 😎
I'm not licensed to do this, but I've installed a transfer switch before, installed an outlet for an EV and have done numerous electrical tasks and I understand EVERYTHING in your videos and could do this. Again, I wouldn't because I'm not licensed to do so, but your videos couldn't be more clear. Great job.
As a master electrician … in my area. Not using plastic bushings on those pvc rigid fittings would absolutely fail an inspection. Also the cold water bond, as well as grounding electrodes would also have to be relocated continuously to the new first means of disconnect. Besides that. Nice looking work :)
I think most will agree the pvc fitting alone provides equivalent protection. 352.46 Bushings. Where a conduit enters a box, fitting, or other enclosure, a bushing or adapter shall be provided to protect the wire from abrasion unless the box, fitting, or enclosure design provides equivalent protection.
@@jbar6618 Where raceways contain conductors 4 AWG and larger, the conductors must be protected from abrasion during and after installation by a fitting that provides a smooth, rounded insulating surface, such as an insulating bushing [300.4(F)]. For IMC and RMC, a metal or plastic bushing must be installed on conduit threads at terminations, regardless of conductor size, in accordance with 300.4(F) In my area, no inspectors agree with your statement. It is a requirement and will fail every time in Colorado
Cold water bond can go in the panel inside the house. Also he's in an area where the GEC is ran into the meter base in that 1/2" PVC conduit, so there should be no neutral to grounding bonding anywhere else on the premises. Multiple neutral to ground connections on one service is a bad idea. Pick one spot and bond neutral to ground there. In the meter can is safer since the meter box is sealed, and discourages tampering with the GEC and it's connection.
what is the reason for going directly to the meter for the power. you can't come off from that breaker in the middle panel for your power running to the disconnect ? Just curious. Thanks....
As an inspector in my county and a electrician really nice job . We always have our neutral and ground separate. Only one question . Did you had get your meter disconnected?
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead - I have a 20KW unit that I am about to do as much as I can on my own and then have an electrician friend double check my work before we ask for the permit. What is the wire sizes from generator to ATS and then from meter head to ATS and then from ATS to the load center? Thanks!
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead I know it helped me. I am not an electrician but I am a DIY guy. I know enough to do this but I don't understand why the ground and common have to be separated at the second box. Not sure why but will make sure I do it. If you get time please explain. Thanks again.
@@happycamper6418 That is a great question. Your neutral is your path back to the source (transformer) for any unbalanced current. The ground wire in your house is a safety wire that will cause your breaker to trip should an energized wire touch something it shouldn’t. They are bonded at the first means of disconnect because that is the point where it goes back to the transformer. The ground rod is a safety as well, allowing current to get back to the transformer a secondary way if need be. If your neutrals and grounds are bonded everywhere it’s no different than if you were to touch the ground on a plug to the neutral, it would induce voltage on your devices and possibly cause electrocution. The goal is to never have any current on the ground wire. And if it does, it will automatically trip your breaker.
Good Job! I couldn't help noticing your arc suppressor is upside down. Smiles. It matters to the technicians who will service your generator at a later time.
what is the reason for going directly to the meter for the power. you can't come off from that breaker in the middle panel for your power running to the disconnect ? Just curious. Thanks....
@@davidwicox That's a good question. First it's probably best to consider why the breaker box was there to begin with, before the generator came into the equation. It likely powers a workshop or other outbuildings. And being the first panel inline from the meter, means it's considered the main service panel, and as such it has it's ground and neutral bonded and so in fact his home's interior panel is a sub panel. Now keep in mind that an ATS is designed to be connected directly to the meter. One reason for this is to ensure continuous monitoring of the service meter in case the grid goes down, then his generator can kick on. Could he have powered his ATS from the breaker as you wanted to know? Sure he could, but that could pose some problems, or provide some solutions, depending on a particular situation. For one, had he went from the service breaker to power up the ATS, then one day he's out in his shop and has multiple loads running for whatever reasons, and he accidentally tries to pull waaay too much juice through the service panel, it could trip the main breaker. Now, what do you think the generator will do when it no longer senses power from the service panel? Or what if the main breaker becomes faulty? It happens, especially outdoors they could corrode or experience some moisture events. And what if the breaker periodically trips for whatever reason due to it becoming faulty? Again, what will the generator do when it senses a loss of power to the house? So you might go to sleep at night and the faulty breaker trip, and your generator kicks on and runs all night, draining your precious propane. Maybe you don't even notice it's on for a couple of days if it's on the back side of the house and you didn't walk around there to hear it running. Meanwhile you could have saved all that propane by simply letting your ATS do it's job and monitor the meter, rather than your service panel. Oh and word to the wise, you probably oughtn't use that breaker box as a conduit for getting your service wires to your ATS. They should have their own conduit bypassing the panel, and going straight to ATS as said. Also, avoid cramming them into a 2.5" hole along with all those customer load wires. The sheathing on those wires can rub off much easier than a lot of people think, and two many hot wires all bundled parallel can become a source of heat. Best to full comply with code if you are to attempt this yourself. Hope that helps.
Thank you for walking through the entire process not showing after most work was done awesome 👏 work,and yes service wire is a pain to connect will slap you wide awake if not careful 🤣
wow read some comments and checked in my area i wld have to swap the panel with the ats or run conduit as panel can not be used as a raceway for feeder cables as well as fused and unfused cables can not share same raceway but if you got away with it from your ahj great
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have the same 24KW Generac in the process of being installed to run off natural gas. I now know what it entails when the contractor has to install and wire the transfer switch.
Suggestion - for a temporary situation or a permanent solution, get a Generlink meter base adaptor. Would recommend the 40 amp unit. Safe, very easy to use, super easy (5 min.) for the electric company to install. I have no ties to the company. I bought one and it's a great solution. Using it with my Generac standby genset. Simply plug in the cord when needed, unplug when done.
I've watched this a couple of times already. I'll be planning to do my own. He did a great job! Maybe I can convince him to fly out to me and help me. lol
Electrical engineer and PE turned electrician; I too enjoyed the video. I watch a lot of vids like yours to learn from. I have done a few small jobs and learned it is not as easy as it looks.
Thanks very much for you videos is very interesting Im electric mechanics engineer, I have the same generator, Im installed for my self. Thanks very very good, God bless you and your beautiful family.
According to the NEC you’re not allowed to have unfused wires from the meter in the same raceway as feeder wires. Also, you cannot use your panel/load center as a raceway. Seperate conduits are required for the feeder wires and the wiring coming from the meter. You should have put the transfer switch on the left side of the meter can, and installed a nipple between the transfer switch and the load center.
I needed a unit ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y that I could store in my home when I wasn't running, so it being light and running on propane were key requirements. I can store the propane tank/bottle outside yet store the generator in my home when it's not in use as I will never put any gas in the engine. It is so light, and on echo mode, which I expect is how it will be used most of the time, it is pretty darned quiet (certainly compared to all the generators I hear in my neighborhood after each power outage).Many of the previous reviews had me concerned that it would be difficult to start on propane, but I have to say, I had absolutely no problem at all. I primed it first using the choke...3 pulls, heard the engine want to start, flipped it to propane, and one more pull and she started. I ran it for 2 hours the first time and plugged it in my fridge. And when I was done, I put the propane tank away and carried the generator to my basement for next time.I could not be happier.
Great work. I always get a kick out of the fact that the wire cutters are purpose-built and nice and the wire gets skinned with a utility knife. They make a stripper for that, but nobody uses it.
NEC 230.7 states that service conductors "shall not" be installed in the same raceway or cable with feeder or branch circuit conductors! Needs a separate conduit from the meter to the transfer switch to route the "service conductors" (non-fused) and a different conduit routing the "feeder conductors" (fused) from the panel to the transfer switch.
My main 150amp panel is in my basement. What is the best place to install the automatic transfer switch? I'm debating on getting a Kohler 20k RCA and not sure where to place ATS inside or outside the home.. Also is OnCue worth it and don't they make a wireless kit so one doesn't need to use a cat 5 ethernet cable? Thanks😊 My gas meter is on opposite side of my house to where the electric meter is.
We're having this same exact generator installed. I didn't get to follow the electricians when they installed the electricals but this is very interesting and educational. Thank you so much for sharing! Now we're waiting on the Gas company to hook up the gas lines. Then the sales guy is supposed to give us a tutorial and demo. We got the Wi-Fi but that component is on some kind of backorder and might take months for it to arrive. :( Bumber....but atleast it will work without it. Thanks again and I look forward to more of your videos!
Nice work. I just retired as a master in Michigan and I can tell you that without no lox on the aluminum wires you would get a violation! , From experience I can tell you using copper wire for jumpers would have made your life much easier. Also when the unit is so close I would go entire distance to generator in flex PVC approved for direct burial.. It seems you feed generator with no 2 wire but used 2 auot for jumpers.
Ok, If you are a licensed Journeyman you are an expert and your pay should reflect as much. No one knows it all as our industry continually evolves with new equipment and codes. Knowing how to get the proper information is all you need to do it correctly. You do nice work and as for your wires well, I think we've all been in a crunch and sometimes there's just not enough time to acquire absolute perfection in how we lay the wirers in and bend them at termination. Great job. I still like inhibitor on aluminum as it is a known fact that dissimilar metals will create corrosion, so I think if it will help deter that then why not use it. NEC is minimum requirements, you can go above the required minimum. In this case I do. 43 years at this, Thanks for the video.
Wow, I really appreciate the kind words! A friend once told me the only difference between an apprentice and a journeyman is the journeyman knows how to hide his mistakes! 😜 Thank you for watching.
Enjoyed every second of your video. Golden Nuggets of Knowledge, Golden Nuggets of Power. Thank you for the breakdown of continuity. Excellent video!!!
I've done low voltage for years and sometimes have to hook power supplies up to 110. Way on back I did a couple years as an apprentice for industrial and commercial stuff. This actually looks pretty straightforward and I have been trying to decide between a manual setup that pwoers the furnace, well, fridge, and some lights or a whole house setup, but watching this makes me think that going whole house is probably the best way to do this.
Thank you for the video. I worked many years in my youth assisting an electrician, nearly went that way professionally but didn't. That said, I'm comfortable working around electricity. Generac isn't very helpful with the transfer switch instructions. For short runs, I would definitely go with copper, aluminum is just a pain in the butt and that hole would be plenty large enough for all.
Been waiting for this video!! I'll be doing my own 24kw generac install very soon and this helped me tremendously!! Thanks for the great video, us DIY guys and gals really appreciate it!
if your doing a similar install use 2 couplings instead of all that fill in just the one lol never mind Floyd Maronge Floyd Maronge 2 days ago @Maynard Family Homestead you are correct you can't run unfused conductors in the same conduit with fused conductors. You also can't you the panel as a raceway to get to the ATS. If someone turns off the ATS main and thinks the power is off and drills a hole in the panel and cuts one of those meter wires he could kill himself. Not good to show that.
@@wizard3z868 ... part of the answer is you should never modify anything that is UL listed. That would include drilling holes. This is why there are so many pre-punched locations in the cabinet.
I am not a pro, but a pretty good amateur. This was a very nice job. Very clean very professional. I do have a question though... Unless I'm seeing it incorrectly, you have utility power going into your meter can, and then from there into a main service disconnect, and from there into your house. So, I'm wondering why the generator transfer switch is not wired in between the main disconnect and the house, which means you would not have had to pull the meter, because you could just shut the main disconnect off and make everything on the service side of it cold. I realize that you still would need the permits and inspections, but with it wired this way, you would have no way now to ever service the input side of the generator should you need to without having someone first pull the meter. Is there a reason that it's done this way?
I was surprised you didn't have another bonding conductor in that PVC pipe from meter to Transfer switch but I guess it don't matter seeings how the neutral is grounded in the transfer switch
Under 230.85(3) it says; Other listed Disconnect switches or circuit breakers on the supply side of each service Disconnect that are suitable for use as service equipment and marked as follows: Emergency Disconnect, Not service equipment. Label the transfer switch "Emergency Disconnect / Not Service Equipment" and OK to run 3-wire to existing main panel. Which means you don't have to separate the neutrals from the equipment grounds with separate bus bars.
I wanted to learn if there was a separate set of breakers for generator and I see that is not needed for a automatic whole house transfer switch. Same breakers are used just a additional box to switch the power between power company and generator. Nice video thanks.
Great video. Always good to see how others go about the same task. Insight is everywhere. I'm an electrician in Canada and would say your methods are almost identical to ours. I only had the 2 questions. The first was you didn't use de-ox but I saw other comments say it's not necessary there. So that ones answered. The other was, here, the first point of disconnect for this service would be the meter as it has the grounded neutral. That would mean all subsequent connections would bond to it. So the jumper from the ground rail to the neutral in the transfer switch would be removed. Is that not the case there? Here our meters don't have a grounded neutral, but that is slowly changing to a similar setup to yours. Anyway clean work, looks great. Thanks for posting.
A few observations: 1. Can you legally use the old Main Service Disconnect panel as the raceway from the meter to the transfer switch - and still use the disconnect as a sub? Didn't think that was allowed. 2. BECAUSE you used the panel as a raceway, was the 2.5" nipple big enough for all the conductors, code-wise? You had to really fight to get the conductors in there. 3. The nipple is also missing a bushing, which could be more of an issue, if the possible overfill of the nipple causes the conductors to rub or push against the edge. 4. Does code in your area require you to relocate your grounding conductor to the transfer switch, since that's what the meter is feeding now? 5. From a best practices standpoint, you should tighten-loosen-tighten-wiggle-tighten the conductors under the lugs, just to make sure the lugs have dug in deep enough into the strands to not come loose in a year or two of expanding and contracting with the heat - reduces the chances of loose-arcing later on. 6. Definitely buy yourself a good, durable torque wrench. If you ever had an issue with fire due to arcing in any of the panels, including the load side of the meter, the one thing that could de-rail a claim payment from the insurance company is whether the lugs were tightened with a torque wrench or not. Might sound trivial, but I'm not joking. The torque settings are usually printed on the assembly, you set the torque wrench and tighten until you hear one click on the wrench. This is also why the tighten-loosen-tighten-wiggle-tighten practice can be so important. Any blame the insurance company can lay at your feet to not pay out a claim, they will do it every. single. time. Protect yourself, definitely get a torque wrench. I only say this because you did the work yourself. These are all technical observations, local codes can vary, which is why I asked questions, as opposed to declaring something HAS to be a certain way. But aside from that, the work was clean, you definitely got a workout in with those conductors, but overall a nice job. Good video.
Unfused conductors aren’t allowed in the same raceway as fused conductors in NC at least. Unless you can create enough space for no contact (very tough to do. Had a county inspector watch me struggle and fail. Had to enter through a new raceway. Passed inspection the next day).
@@hhuucckk Right, and the (sub)panel is now considered a raceway between the meter box and the transfer switch. You can kill power to the sub at the transfer switch, but the meter wires stay on until the meter is pulled or power is killed at the pole. That's what I thought too, the metered lines would still be hot in the raceway, you could still get inductive current. Wire separation can be attempted, I've even seen people make wire separators that can fit into nipples to keep wires off of each other, but there's no way he could do that with a full nipple like that 2.5". Even linear ones would take up quite a bit of space in the bottom of the sub, and get a bit cumbersome just with the number and size of the conductors in there.
If anyone is interested, for Canada the answers would be. 1. No 2. Yes 3. Bushing not needed (but service bonding requirements most likely not met) 4. Yes
He should've also use no locks or some type of anti-oxidation lubricant on all those aluminum wire terminations!!! On service equipment I use it on all terminations aluminum or copper...
Well got to say that is very impressive work.I think you did a great job ,and the wiring was done very nicely. I wish I had the knowledge for that.I know some electric so I could try to do that.I will plan to that to my house, what I saw from what you did I think I could try to do it. thanks
Yeah you might be right, I would have to look in my code book on that I don’t remember offhand. I want to think it’s not considered a raceway being that short, it’s just a nipple. That changes the fill capacity as well. I will have to go look that up!
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead you are correct you can't run unfused conductors in the same conduit with fused conductors. You also can't you the panel as a raceway to get to the ATS. If someone turns off the ATS main and thinks the power is off and drills a hole in the panel and cuts one of those meter wires he could kill himself. Not good to show that.
Violation of NEC 230-7 would prohibit service conductors in the same raceway. As feeder conductors, i'm surprised your county building department didn't catch that
Great job on the install man. May I suggest a torque wrench for those main lugs 250 ft lbs per manufacturer. You stripped the hell out of that neutral lug, but it happens when you’re trying to get her done.
I've been an electrician for 40 years and I enjoyed every minute of your video. Of course everyone has little things they like to do differently but I thought you did an excellent job. I would be curious about your opinion about the use of de-ox on the aluminum connections. I know it is no longer required but I still like to use it. Do you think it still serves a purpose or totally unnecessary?
I really appreciate the kind words! I am definitely not an expert, I’ve only been doing electrical work for 12 or 13 years. I still use it when it’s available, I definitely think it’s not a bad idea. I have even used it on copper in the past. I just see it as a way to make a better connection, not necessarily for oxidation
Hi Grag, if you look at a video that Mike Holt posted about the de-ox and why we no longer need to use it on new aluminum wire because of the new aluminum alloy call AA8000 alloy . But on older wire, if you are not replacing it, you still need to use it.
I agree he did a good job, it's not his fault the gen company requires their panel to be the main. This requirement means that unprotected conductors must be on an enclosure with others. Normally the meter should feed a disconnect as the main then feed the subfeeds and the dedicated transfer panel. You would think that a panel with to different power sources woud be required to be the last panel to isolate it from the main.
A joy to watch. Neat, methodical and not rushed. Taking the proper time to do a job is key in my opinion. I’ve watched a lot of people doing similar work and it’s frustrating to watch. Steady wins the race! Thanks 👍 and keep making videos. Subscribed and liked. 👍
Thanks! Unfortunately those cutters aren’t the good ones, those are cheap Chinese cutters that cost $30. Cool, down around Lakeland/ Orlando area? We’re up near the Gainesville area about an hour from Georgia.
Thanks! Yeah I normally use it but at the time of this install it was impossible to find. Same with plastic bushings. Covid really jacked up the supply chain. It’s not required here anymore because the wire is an alloy and not regular aluminum. Thanks for watching!
I got a question, here in W.Virginia we are required to use Oxy guard on aluminum wire. I'm no electrician and I know very little about such things. Is aluminum wire prone to shrinkage and/or oxidization? Just asking as I don't know. Very informative video.
Years ago aluminum wire would oxidize and even harden up so it was necessary to use anti-ox compound. Aluminum wire today is actually an aluminum alloy, so it is no longer required. That being said, if I had some I would probably use it just because it doesn’t hurt. I couldn’t find it at the store, so I didn’t worry about it. I also couldn’t find plastic bushings that I needed for the chases, supplies are hard to come by these days.
Technically no, I was able to obtain special permission from my AHJ since it is existing and I was on a time crunch to get the power back on for my family.
@@jeepxj That is correct. You would want to get two conduit bodies and a piece of pipe, and come out of the bottom of the meter can and over to the bottom of the transfer switch.
should the neutral be switched too when running off the genrator to prevent current from flowing on the gorund and neutal back to the generator? or do these whole home generators have a floating neutal?
Very good question. Since it’s feeding the first means of disconnect it’s not necessary. The first means neutral is connected to earth via the ground rod so there’s no unbalanced current feeding back to the generator.
@@MrSamsamsammy There are other issues there, still. But even code not withstanding, if you're cramming the wires in to get them through.. It might be too full xD
@@MrSamsamsammy Maybe it's jurisdictional but where I live filling a conduit more then 80% full requires derating all conductors. Doesn't matter about length, 1 inch, 1 foot. Over 80% it's a derate. Only exception in residential is when conductors pass through a hole in a stud, you can fill the hole as long as the cables seperate on either side of the stud. That's because a couple 15 amp runs won't generate that much heat under load. and either side the stud cavity offers enough air to keep conductors cool. Same conductors in conduit, the 80% rule applies.
Technically they are supposed to be per the NEC. It generally only happens in commercial work though from what I’ve seen. I know a lot of electricians and I think only one has a torque wrench.
110.14(D) Terminal Connection Torque. Tightening torque values for terminal connections shall be as indicated on equipment or in installation instructions provided by the manufacturer. An approved means shall be used to achieve the indicated torque value.
Having installed service entrance wires and using a torque wrench, I can tell you, you have to tighten them down more than you would think otherwise. I had the panel the house came with fail due to loose connections and I did the install/work on the replacement service panel. It’ll be more important the higher a houses load is. I foresee lots of houses having problems after one electrifies and starts adding more heavy loads like car charging. All my problems manifested after electrifying the house away from gas.
It's America so probably not. Being a European myself I find it cringe af seeing it all packed like this gives me chills of a fire or something. I would have at least put another conduet from mains going to the top of the boxes rather than route it through bottom of both boxes just for aesthetics, simplicity and safety. Way too much in one condu.
@@tdkyt46 Two things come to mind, 1). it's a very short run, only a few inches, and 2). at any time only half the wires could have current because of the disconnect switch. Might not meet code but in reality I'd guess the danger factor is zero.
Keith R.... yes. NEC chapter 9 table 1 has Information for calculating the inside diameter for various conduit types and sizes and wire outside diameter for the various wires/insulation. Use this if you are putting different sizes in the same conduit. NEC annex C (also back of book) has charts for various conduits and wire typed/sized. ie. No. 12 THHN in a one inch PVC schedule 40 is 25 wires (nec page 70-791). Hope that gets you started.
Totally beautiful job it looks great! Only one thing I was curious how come to worse in any No ox Put on the wires so they don’t corrode episodes that totally incredible job looks really cool
When working on these type panels live (e.g., when the covers were put back on or making voltage measurements, Category 2 PPE is typically needed (Per OSHA and NPFA 70E)). Recommend a review of 29 CFR 1910 Subpart S and NFPA 70E. Those references may save your life or prevent a serious injury.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead Agreed, when the work was done, the circuits were de-energized. However, PPE is needed, especially after an install, when you are checking the system with a multi-meter. Per OSHA and NFPA 70E, PPE is also needed after the power company disconnects the power and you are checking the system in an electrically safe work condition. With more homes and businesses having additional alternate power sources (e.g., solar), the PPE is needed now than ever when verifying as system is de-energized.
While you are correct in that the rules do require safety PPE the fact is that following these rules to the letter would literally take the simplest of jobs and turn them into nightmares. In places like Florida where the heat and humidity are stupid the PPE would likely cause dangerous heat issues. I work hot, allot! Not due to a callous disregared for my safety but some work simply must happen that way. Allot of these rules are there simply to minimize insurance claims and because stupid people do stupid stuff that results in damage, injury, and death. The only point in the videos with power would have been the meter jaws at the top of the can and the lug/ bar assembly from the underground. So not much exposure overall.
Ditto on corrosion prevention on aluminum wire, and watch those torques on the tightening the lugs, Been a electrical contractor since the early eighties. other wise nice job., looks like transfer switch switches all power to other sub panels in the home? Wire size from generator looks a bit undersized, but don't know KW of Gen and or your load.
Thanks! It’s a 24kw with 100a feeders. I used 2-2-4-6. My home load is around 70 amps with the AC running so I didn’t need load shedding devices thankfully.
4:45 doesn't the piece of horizontal conduit going into the panel on the far right need a plastic insulating bushing, or is it ok with out one because its pvc?
Good catch! Any PVC MA 1 1/4” and larger is supposed to have a bushing. I just couldn’t find any in 4 different stores I went to. Material shortages are a thing right now in Florida.
I am not an electrician, but I love electric and am not scared to work with it. Great video and great install!! I assume you have a sub panel in the basement or somewhere inside the house that you have the rest of the breakers for the house. Well done!
First means of disconnect. All newer meters /new code. U have to have an outside disconnect for fire dept. transfer switch is also a disconnect, meaning if u didn’t have a disconnect before u have to separate your neutrals and grounds.
Lol I’m used to the big commercial panels. I had an arc blast from a residential panel as well, was blind for 5-10 mins and burnt my hair and eyebrows. Scared me hood! It’s funny but true, power plants are probably a lot safer! 😂
Looks like you are using aluminum wire. I don't like it because if it starts heating, things go downhill pretty quickly. Happened in the plant where I worked. Flash overs brighter than the Sun. If I have to work with it, I apply Nocor to all lug connections. You did a good job there. I assume you double checked utility power was off before starting the job. Be safe.
hello was just wondering should you use no lox on all the bare connections and when you tighten the aluminum id tight and loosen then tight and loosen so all the strans compress then use a torque wrench
amazing work, my only question. did an inspector ask you to install a second conduit fitting to pass the wires? up here we need an inch or so of free space
You did a very good job, ez to watch! You don’t have a bunch of crap.
I also was waiting to see if you would pick up on moving the ground as first means of disconnect has changed. Great job.
I would probably tighten the wires the same as you.
But if you have a picky inspector, he may want to see your toque wrench. And maybe the Noax.
I myself would just have the toque wrench laying there.
I’m an industrial electrician of 45+ years. And we need new blood like you in the trade.
Again very goof job!!!
My understanding went from zero to 100%, it is a fantastic video, I'm closer to having it done. Thanks for your video.
Awesome, thanks for watching!
Dude thank u. I been doing commercial work most of my life. Shopping centers pretty much. But I've now started my own business n this video helped me sooooo much, especially on the wire for controls... Thanks my guy u saved the day for this man!! I owe u
Thank you sir, I greatly appreciate it! I’m glad to be of help. I was actually a commercial guy myself I never did a ton of residential stuff. I did do a lot of service on generators but only did a couple installs prior. If I can do it you can definitely do it. It’s not as fun as MC cable and EMT, but it’s very easy.
what is the reason for going directly to the meter for the power. you can't come off from that breaker in the middle panel for your power running to the disconnect ? Just curious. Thanks....
Nice job two things I would like to input working for FP&L for 38 years you always want to wire brush the AL wire and put an inhibitor on the wire to stop corrosion.
ive read that nowadays the wires are an aluminum alloy and do not require an inhibitor, no?
The wires are an aluminum alloy and don't require these additional steps.
Looked like he could have used some good old fashion petroleum jelly though to push that final set of wires back into the disconnect panel😆
Wow dude. I've been installing these for a few months now. On a crew. I normally set up the generator pad and the gas. But now cause of your video I understand the transfer switch.
Awesome, glad it was helpful!
This is why I love You Tube! By installing this on You Tube you opened yourself up to a lot of criticism but I thought the video was excellent! While watching your video, I had the Generac manual opened on my computer in another "window" and went back and forth to follow your install. Although my install will be a little different coming from a 200amp service with breakers, the concept is basically the same. I'm getting ready to build a new home in NW FL and have ordered a 24kw Generac and was interested how the new ones were installed. I installed a Generac Guardian at my other house in 2006 and had to separate each circuit I wanted emergency power from the panel to the transfer switch. Talk about a lot of wiring/nuts. Anyway, excellent job!!!
Wow, I really appreciate the kind words! Yeah I have second-guessed myself a few times on whether it was a good idea LOL! Oh that’s electricians always think we know the best way of doing things, and are probably some of the most arrogant people on earth LOL! Good luck on your install buddy, and thanks for watching our video
Dan, why on earth did you buy such a massive unit?! Bigger is not better. I've lived in Florida my entire life as a small engine mechanic and have personally been without power for 3 months during the summer, and I would never recommend such a huge unit to an average homeowner. The fuel cost is outrageous for large units. If you are running propane with buried tank, you have less than 7 days worth of fuel. And you cant buy any more, in Florida, during a hurricane, for at least 3 weeks. The entire state sells out of propane for about 3 weeks at a time. If its a long extended outage, you will basically get 5-7 days worth of electricity, and then no more electricity after that until the power comes back on. The sweet spot for an average house is about 14K watt generator for a hole home , and about a 5000 watt generator if you use a portable with window AC units.
@@bubbatime Hey Scott, NG generator and originally going with a 22kw but the 24k was only $300.00 more. In NW Fl, we have lost power to many times to count due to hurricanes and tropical storms. Can't beat a Generac!!!!
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead
I don't think it's arrogance (okay, maybe a FEW of them), as much as experienced electricians have already made the mistakes and learned from them. I asked a bunch of questions in my comment, because you may have different regs to comply with in your state, compared to others, and I didn't want to assume anything. But anytime I can help someone (like the "best practices" I mentioned in my comment, about the lugs and torque wrench) with something I've learned from years of work and fails, I'll help.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead you said a mouthful and correctly so. Thanks for the detail and learning experience.
Being an electrican in Australia I found this very interesting and educational. Thank you for sharing.
Do the electrons flow the other way down there???
@@ChatGPT1111 😁😁
@@ChatGPT1111 great question -- I can say that the circular water flow down a drain does rotate the opposite direction as compared to the northern hemisphere 😎
@@ckuiper7332 that's what I had in mind lol, just joking. G'day!
@@ChatGPT1111 actually the electrons flow both ways that why its AC! 🤣
I just found your video, as Master electrician all I can say is good job.
We do it a little bit different in Maryland.
Thank you!
I have a correction to what I wrote.
I meant to say on the last line.
You did a very good job. And I will even change that to EXCELLENCE JOB!!!
I really appreciate the kind words!
I'm not licensed to do this, but I've installed a transfer switch before, installed an outlet for an EV and have done numerous electrical tasks and I understand EVERYTHING in your videos and could do this. Again, I wouldn't because I'm not licensed to do so, but your videos couldn't be more clear. Great job.
I appreciate the kind words!
It amazes me as to how you just know so confidently the cuts and location work out.
As a master electrician … in my area. Not using plastic bushings on those pvc rigid fittings would absolutely fail an inspection. Also the cold water bond, as well as grounding electrodes would also have to be relocated continuously to the new first means of disconnect. Besides that. Nice looking work :)
I think most will agree the pvc fitting alone provides equivalent protection.
352.46 Bushings. Where a conduit enters a box, fitting, or other enclosure, a bushing or adapter shall be provided to protect the wire from abrasion unless the box, fitting, or enclosure design provides equivalent protection.
@@jbar6618 Where raceways contain conductors 4 AWG and larger, the conductors must be protected from abrasion during and after installation by a fitting that provides a smooth, rounded insulating surface, such as an insulating bushing [300.4(F)]. For IMC and RMC, a metal or plastic bushing must be installed on conduit threads at terminations, regardless of conductor size, in accordance with 300.4(F)
In my area, no inspectors agree with your statement. It is a requirement and will fail every time in Colorado
@@jbar6618 PVC or not you still need one.
Cold water bond can go in the panel inside the house. Also he's in an area where the GEC is ran into the meter base in that 1/2" PVC conduit, so there should be no neutral to grounding bonding anywhere else on the premises. Multiple neutral to ground connections on one service is a bad idea. Pick one spot and bond neutral to ground there. In the meter can is safer since the meter box is sealed, and discourages tampering with the GEC and it's connection.
@@brnmcc01 correct. The GEC is in the meter can. Everything should be separated after that , which it is not. Good eye
i install these everyday. pretty cool to see someone else do it
What kind of company do you work for?
what is the reason for going directly to the meter for the power. you can't come off from that breaker in the middle panel for your power running to the disconnect ? Just curious. Thanks....
You did a very professional job. Very few people separate grounds and neutrals after first means of disconnect in the area I use to work in.
Thanks for watching! Sadly it is fairly common to see here as well.
It's a code requirement
As an inspector in my county and a electrician really nice job . We always have our neutral and ground separate.
Only one question . Did you had get your meter disconnected?
@mrich7363 thank you. Yep, the Jack was removed at the transformer by the utility.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead - I have a 20KW unit that I am about to do as much as I can on my own and then have an electrician friend double check my work before we ask for the permit.
What is the wire sizes from generator to ATS and then from meter head to ATS and then from ATS to the load center? Thanks!
This video is actually informational and entertaining. It helped me a great deal with my own installation.
Always a pleasure to watch an expert tradesman do an installation. Always a chance to learn.
I appreciate you watching. I wouldn’t consider myself an expert, but I appreciate the kind words!
Expert? He has six 4/0 aluminum conductors jammed in a 2" nipple. he's over the allowable percentage of conduit fill.
@@rc6147 Thanks. He says so in the Chase section.
I enjoyed your two videos on installing and wiring a generator and transfer switch. I am sure this has helped someone.
Thanks, I hope so!
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead I know it helped me. I am not an electrician but I am a DIY guy. I know enough to do this but I don't understand why the ground and common have to be separated at the second box. Not sure why but will make sure I do it. If you get time please explain. Thanks again.
@@happycamper6418 That is a great question. Your neutral is your path back to the source (transformer) for any unbalanced current. The ground wire in your house is a safety wire that will cause your breaker to trip should an energized wire touch something it shouldn’t. They are bonded at the first means of disconnect because that is the point where it goes back to the transformer. The ground rod is a safety as well, allowing current to get back to the transformer a secondary way if need be. If your neutrals and grounds are bonded everywhere it’s no different than if you were to touch the ground on a plug to the neutral, it would induce voltage on your devices and possibly cause electrocution. The goal is to never have any current on the ground wire. And if it does, it will automatically trip your breaker.
Good Job! I couldn't help noticing your arc suppressor is upside down. Smiles. It matters to the technicians who will service your generator at a later time.
Good eye!
what is the reason for going directly to the meter for the power. you can't come off from that breaker in the middle panel for your power running to the disconnect ? Just curious. Thanks....
@@davidwicox That's a good question. First it's probably best to consider why the breaker box was there to begin with, before the generator came into the equation. It likely powers a workshop or other outbuildings. And being the first panel inline from the meter, means it's considered the main service panel, and as such it has it's ground and neutral bonded and so in fact his home's interior panel is a sub panel. Now keep in mind that an ATS is designed to be connected directly to the meter. One reason for this is to ensure continuous monitoring of the service meter in case the grid goes down, then his generator can kick on.
Could he have powered his ATS from the breaker as you wanted to know? Sure he could, but that could pose some problems, or provide some solutions, depending on a particular situation.
For one, had he went from the service breaker to power up the ATS, then one day he's out in his shop and has multiple loads running for whatever reasons, and he accidentally tries to pull waaay too much juice through the service panel, it could trip the main breaker. Now, what do you think the generator will do when it no longer senses power from the service panel?
Or what if the main breaker becomes faulty? It happens, especially outdoors they could corrode or experience some moisture events. And what if the breaker periodically trips for whatever reason due to it becoming faulty? Again, what will the generator do when it senses a loss of power to the house?
So you might go to sleep at night and the faulty breaker trip, and your generator kicks on and runs all night, draining your precious propane. Maybe you don't even notice it's on for a couple of days if it's on the back side of the house and you didn't walk around there to hear it running. Meanwhile you could have saved all that propane by simply letting your ATS do it's job and monitor the meter, rather than your service panel.
Oh and word to the wise, you probably oughtn't use that breaker box as a conduit for getting your service wires to your ATS. They should have their own conduit bypassing the panel, and going straight to ATS as said. Also, avoid cramming them into a 2.5" hole along with all those customer load wires. The sheathing on those wires can rub off much easier than a lot of people think, and two many hot wires all bundled parallel can become a source of heat. Best to full comply with code if you are to attempt this yourself.
Hope that helps.
Thank you for walking through the entire process not showing after most work was done awesome 👏 work,and yes service wire is a pain to connect will slap you wide awake if not careful 🤣
I appreciate the video in step by step detail along with dos and donts. Really helped me with install. Good Job Maynard Family!!!!
Thanks for watching! God bless
He should’ve did a talk through with the walk through I don’t know where you heard step-by-step instructions but OK😂
Enjoyed watching each video. I'm also an electrician and got a lead to install this generator. Thanks for sharing!
wow read some comments and checked in my area i wld have to swap the panel with the ats or run conduit as panel can not be used as a raceway for feeder cables as well as fused and unfused cables can not share same raceway but if you got away with it from your ahj great
What area are you from .The U.S. has a National code.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have the same 24KW Generac in the process of being installed to run off natural gas. I now know what it entails when the contractor has to install and wire the transfer switch.
Thanks for watching!
Suggestion - for a temporary situation or a permanent solution, get a Generlink meter base adaptor. Would recommend the 40 amp unit.
Safe, very easy to use, super easy (5 min.) for the electric company to install.
I have no ties to the company. I bought one and it's a great solution. Using it with my Generac standby genset. Simply plug in the cord when needed, unplug when done.
I've watched this a couple of times already. I'll be planning to do my own. He did a great job! Maybe I can convince him to fly out to me and help me. lol
Electrical engineer and PE turned electrician; I too enjoyed the video. I watch a lot of vids like yours to learn from. I have done a few small jobs and learned it is not as easy as it looks.
Thanks very much for you videos is very interesting Im electric mechanics engineer, I have the same generator, Im installed for my self. Thanks very very good, God bless you and your beautiful family.
You should never let go on your work quality because your work presents you, advice from Israel.
Greetings in Israel! Thanks for watching, and for the kind advice.
According to the NEC you’re not allowed to have unfused wires from the meter in the same raceway as feeder wires. Also, you cannot use your panel/load center as a raceway. Seperate conduits are required for the feeder wires and the wiring coming from the meter. You should have put the transfer switch on the left side of the meter can, and installed a nipple between the transfer switch and the load center.
I needed a unit ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y that I could store in my home when I wasn't running, so it being light and running on propane were key requirements. I can store the propane tank/bottle outside yet store the generator in my home when it's not in use as I will never put any gas in the engine. It is so light, and on echo mode, which I expect is how it will be used most of the time, it is pretty darned quiet (certainly compared to all the generators I hear in my neighborhood after each power outage).Many of the previous reviews had me concerned that it would be difficult to start on propane, but I have to say, I had absolutely no problem at all. I primed it first using the choke...3 pulls, heard the engine want to start, flipped it to propane, and one more pull and she started. I ran it for 2 hours the first time and plugged it in my fridge. And when I was done, I put the propane tank away and carried the generator to my basement for next time.I could not be happier.
Great work. I always get a kick out of the fact that the wire cutters are purpose-built and nice and the wire gets skinned with a utility knife. They make a stripper for that, but nobody uses it.
I'm an electrical engineer and I have a lot of respect for what you guys do. Very nice looking installation too!
NEC 230.7 states that service conductors "shall not" be installed in the same raceway or cable with feeder or branch circuit conductors! Needs a separate conduit from the meter to the transfer switch to route the "service conductors" (non-fused) and a different conduit routing the "feeder conductors" (fused) from the panel to the transfer switch.
Ain't nobody got time for that.
Exactly
May be true, but it passed inspection.
My main 150amp panel is in my basement. What is the best place to install the automatic transfer switch? I'm debating on getting a Kohler 20k RCA and not sure where to place ATS inside or outside the home.. Also is OnCue worth it and don't they make a wireless kit so one doesn't need to use a cat 5 ethernet cable? Thanks😊 My gas meter is on opposite side of my house to where the electric meter is.
We're having this same exact generator installed. I didn't get to follow the electricians when they installed the electricals but this is very interesting and educational. Thank you so much for sharing! Now we're waiting on the Gas company to hook up the gas lines. Then the sales guy is supposed to give us a tutorial and demo. We got the Wi-Fi but that component is on some kind of backorder and might take months for it to arrive. :( Bumber....but atleast it will work without it. Thanks again and I look forward to more of your videos!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing your install!
Thanks for watching!
Nice work. I just retired as a master in Michigan and I can tell you that without no lox on the aluminum wires you would get a violation! ,
From experience I can tell you using copper wire for jumpers would have made your life much easier.
Also when the unit is so close I would go entire distance to generator in flex PVC approved for direct burial..
It seems you feed generator with no 2 wire but used 2 auot for jumpers.
2/0 is a feed and the number #2 is a feed so im not sure what you a referring to
NO lox is the least of my worries. that conduit is overfilled, no bushings on nipples, and improper grounding/bonding.
Nolox isn't required on today's aluminum conductors as for they are not solid aluminum but an alloy.
@@tedcatino5593 100% inspectors still cry about it though.
No lox is not required by code or the Switch MFG or the wire MFG.
amazing job, I'm installing one in my house and i was looking for a video instructions, but your video will suffice. thank you sir
Awesome, thanks for watching! Be safe.
Surprised Power man did not wear leather gloves to remove meter. Nice catch on the bonding in second panel. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, and for the kind comment!
No arc/flash if the breaker panel inside is turned off as there is no current flowing to interrupt.
@@girlmastergeneral You need a lot more than leather gloves to protect from arc flash!
Good video... based on what I saw, I will be getting a Generac for my home. Thanks..
Ok, If you are a licensed Journeyman you are an expert and your pay should reflect as much. No one knows it all as our industry continually evolves with new equipment and codes. Knowing how to get the proper information is all you need to do it correctly. You do nice work and as for your wires well, I think we've all been in a crunch and sometimes there's just not enough time to acquire absolute perfection in how we lay the wirers in and bend them at termination. Great job. I still like inhibitor on aluminum as it is a known fact that dissimilar metals will create corrosion, so I think if it will help deter that then why not use it. NEC is minimum requirements, you can go above the required minimum. In this case I do. 43 years at this, Thanks for the video.
Wow, I really appreciate the kind words! A friend once told me the only difference between an apprentice and a journeyman is the journeyman knows how to hide his mistakes! 😜 Thank you for watching.
Thank you for posting this excellent video. I really appreciate it.
Its good to see that some of us electricians are still working before and during the sunrise..
I solder the ends for corrosion resistance and add dielectric grease for oxidation...thanks for the vid!
Enjoyed every second of your video. Golden Nuggets of Knowledge, Golden Nuggets of Power.
Thank you for the breakdown of continuity.
Excellent video!!!
Thank you for the kind words and for watching our videos!
Beautiful 😍 work as straight forward an explanation I have ever heard
I've done low voltage for years and sometimes have to hook power supplies up to 110. Way on back I did a couple years as an apprentice for industrial and commercial stuff. This actually looks pretty straightforward and I have been trying to decide between a manual setup that pwoers the furnace, well, fridge, and some lights or a whole house setup, but watching this makes me think that going whole house is probably the best way to do this.
Going whole house would be the best way. Why waste time with partial power hook up?
@@brownbee2150 if you have Enough money ,it would be great choice.
Thank you for the video. I worked many years in my youth assisting an electrician, nearly went that way professionally but didn't. That said, I'm comfortable working around electricity. Generac isn't very helpful with the transfer switch instructions. For short runs, I would definitely go with copper, aluminum is just a pain in the butt and that hole would be plenty large enough for all.
Been waiting for this video!! I'll be doing my own 24kw generac install very soon and this helped me tremendously!! Thanks for the great video, us DIY guys and gals really appreciate it!
Awesome, thanks for watching!
if your doing a similar install use 2 couplings instead of all that fill in just the one lol never mind Floyd Maronge
Floyd Maronge
2 days ago
@Maynard Family Homestead you are correct you can't run unfused conductors in the same conduit with fused conductors. You also can't you the panel as a raceway to get to the ATS. If someone turns off the ATS main and thinks the power is off and drills a hole in the panel and cuts one of those meter wires he could kill himself. Not good to show that.
@@wizard3z868 ... part of the answer is you should never modify anything that is UL listed. That would include drilling holes. This is why there are so many pre-punched locations in the cabinet.
I am not a pro, but a pretty good amateur. This was a very nice job. Very clean very professional. I do have a question though...
Unless I'm seeing it incorrectly, you have utility power going into your meter can, and then from there into a main service disconnect, and from there into your house. So, I'm wondering why the generator transfer switch is not wired in between the main disconnect and the house, which means you would not have had to pull the meter, because you could just shut the main disconnect off and make everything on the service side of it cold. I realize that you still would need the permits and inspections, but with it wired this way, you would have no way now to ever service the input side of the generator should you need to without having someone first pull the meter. Is there a reason that it's done this way?
Good job mentioning the sub panel grounding! Not many people, even electricians, think about that beforehand. 👍
I was surprised you didn't have another bonding conductor in that PVC pipe from meter to Transfer switch but I guess it don't matter seeings how the neutral is grounded in the transfer switch
Under 230.85(3) it says; Other listed Disconnect switches or circuit breakers on the supply side of each service Disconnect that are suitable for use as service equipment and marked as follows: Emergency Disconnect, Not service equipment. Label the transfer switch "Emergency Disconnect / Not Service Equipment" and OK to run 3-wire to existing main panel. Which means you don't have to separate the neutrals from the equipment grounds with separate bus bars.
I wanted to learn if there was a separate set of breakers for generator and I see that is not needed for a automatic whole house transfer switch. Same breakers are used just a additional box to switch the power between power company and generator. Nice video thanks.
Great video. Always good to see how others go about the same task. Insight is everywhere.
I'm an electrician in Canada and would say your methods are almost identical to ours.
I only had the 2 questions. The first was you didn't use de-ox but I saw other comments say it's not necessary there. So that ones answered.
The other was, here, the first point of disconnect for this service would be the meter as it has the grounded neutral. That would mean all subsequent connections would bond to it. So the jumper from the ground rail to the neutral in the transfer switch would be removed. Is that not the case there?
Here our meters don't have a grounded neutral, but that is slowly changing to a similar setup to yours.
Anyway clean work, looks great. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for you video, absolutely enjoyed it. I know to use 3" nipples. 2.5" worked too. Looking for more videos :)
A few observations:
1. Can you legally use the old Main Service Disconnect panel as the raceway from the meter to the transfer switch - and still use the disconnect as a sub? Didn't think that was allowed.
2. BECAUSE you used the panel as a raceway, was the 2.5" nipple big enough for all the conductors, code-wise? You had to really fight to get the conductors in there.
3. The nipple is also missing a bushing, which could be more of an issue, if the possible overfill of the nipple causes the conductors to rub or push against the edge.
4. Does code in your area require you to relocate your grounding conductor to the transfer switch, since that's what the meter is feeding now?
5. From a best practices standpoint, you should tighten-loosen-tighten-wiggle-tighten the conductors under the lugs, just to make sure the lugs have dug in deep enough into the strands to not come loose in a year or two of expanding and contracting with the heat - reduces the chances of loose-arcing later on.
6. Definitely buy yourself a good, durable torque wrench. If you ever had an issue with fire due to arcing in any of the panels, including the load side of the meter, the one thing that could de-rail a claim payment from the insurance company is whether the lugs were tightened with a torque wrench or not. Might sound trivial, but I'm not joking. The torque settings are usually printed on the assembly, you set the torque wrench and tighten until you hear one click on the wrench. This is also why the tighten-loosen-tighten-wiggle-tighten practice can be so important. Any blame the insurance company can lay at your feet to not pay out a claim, they will do it every. single. time. Protect yourself, definitely get a torque wrench. I only say this because you did the work yourself.
These are all technical observations, local codes can vary, which is why I asked questions, as opposed to declaring something HAS to be a certain way. But aside from that, the work was clean, you definitely got a workout in with those conductors, but overall a nice job. Good video.
Perfect and we'll said.🤙🤙🤙
Unfused conductors aren’t allowed in the same raceway as fused conductors in NC at least. Unless you can create enough space for no contact (very tough to do. Had a county inspector watch me struggle and fail. Had to enter through a new raceway. Passed inspection the next day).
@@hhuucckk Right, and the (sub)panel is now considered a raceway between the meter box and the transfer switch. You can kill power to the sub at the transfer switch, but the meter wires stay on until the meter is pulled or power is killed at the pole. That's what I thought too, the metered lines would still be hot in the raceway, you could still get inductive current. Wire separation can be attempted, I've even seen people make wire separators that can fit into nipples to keep wires off of each other, but there's no way he could do that with a full nipple like that 2.5". Even linear ones would take up quite a bit of space in the bottom of the sub, and get a bit cumbersome just with the number and size of the conductors in there.
If anyone is interested, for Canada the answers would be.
1. No
2. Yes
3. Bushing not needed (but service bonding requirements most likely not met)
4. Yes
He should've also use no locks or some type of anti-oxidation lubricant on all those aluminum wire terminations!!! On service equipment I use it on all terminations aluminum or copper...
Well got to say that is very impressive work.I think you did a great job ,and the wiring was done very nicely. I wish I had the knowledge for that.I know some electric so I could try to do that.I will plan to that to my house, what I saw from what you did I think I could try to do it. thanks
There’s a naked to the eye film on the aluminum conductor. Always wire brush than add anti-oxidation lube before terminating. Nice job
Most cable manufacturers do not recommend brushing cables
Nice video. Not perfect per code but the presentation is great and you make yourself easy to understand.
I thought Should be Connecting at the End job first and then at the Power source. But I'm just a regular handyman 😊
That’s only if you want a long happy life. 😜
Here for reviewing and a class assignment but was there a disembodied voice at around 5:59?!
Not a huge deal in my book, however, I don’t think feeders can be in the same raceway as service conductors per the NEC.
Yeah you might be right, I would have to look in my code book on that I don’t remember offhand. I want to think it’s not considered a raceway being that short, it’s just a nipple. That changes the fill capacity as well. I will have to go look that up!
Yeah I was told I couldn’t use it as a raceway either and it’s just a offset nipple
Your inspector may let you slide a pice of seal tight over the line side to get it through the panel. Good luck.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead you are correct you can't run unfused conductors in the same conduit with fused conductors. You also can't you the panel as a raceway to get to the ATS. If someone turns off the ATS main and thinks the power is off and drills a hole in the panel and cuts one of those meter wires he could kill himself. Not good to show that.
That would have failed here in ky.
Nice clean wire runs and install.
Thank you!
Violation of NEC 230-7 would prohibit service conductors in the same raceway. As feeder conductors, i'm surprised your county building department didn't catch that
We have folks try and do that in our area all the time. ABSOLUTELY NOT!
Great job on the install man. May I suggest a torque wrench for those main lugs 250 ft lbs per manufacturer. You stripped the hell out of that neutral lug, but it happens when you’re trying to get her done.
I've been an electrician for 40 years and I enjoyed every minute of your video. Of course everyone has little things they like to do differently but I thought you did an excellent job. I would be curious about your opinion about the use of de-ox on the aluminum connections. I know it is no longer required but I still like to use it. Do you think it still serves a purpose or totally unnecessary?
I really appreciate the kind words! I am definitely not an expert, I’ve only been doing electrical work for 12 or 13 years. I still use it when it’s available, I definitely think it’s not a bad idea. I have even used it on copper in the past. I just see it as a way to make a better connection, not necessarily for oxidation
That's my opinion also. It lubes the point of contact between the set screw and the wire so it doesn't gaul up and makes a tighter connection.
Hi Grag, if you look at a video that Mike Holt posted about the de-ox and why we no longer need to use it on new aluminum wire because of the new aluminum alloy call AA8000 alloy . But on older wire, if you are not replacing it, you still need to use it.
I agree he did a good job, it's not his fault the gen company requires their panel to be the main. This requirement means that unprotected conductors must be on an enclosure with others. Normally the meter should feed a disconnect as the main then feed the subfeeds and the dedicated transfer panel. You would think that a panel with to different power sources woud be required to be the last panel to isolate it from the main.
Excellent question. I use anti oxidant on both cooper and aluminum power connection. An excellent video I might add
Excellent presentation, and great job, I learned a lot. Thank you
A joy to watch. Neat, methodical and not rushed. Taking the proper time to do a job is key in my opinion.
I’ve watched a lot of people doing similar work and it’s frustrating to watch.
Steady wins the race! Thanks 👍 and keep making videos.
Subscribed and liked. 👍
Thank you very much!
Wish I had cutter like that ratchetting one you had back in my days. Great video and nice Installation video. Fm Central Florida.
Thanks! Unfortunately those cutters aren’t the good ones, those are cheap Chinese cutters that cost $30.
Cool, down around Lakeland/ Orlando area? We’re up near the Gainesville area about an hour from Georgia.
One recommendation, don’t make your tie ins until all wires are ran, would make for an easier installation. (Pulling wires, etc.)
I'm wondering why no anti-ox compound on the aluminum wire? Its required in our area and thought to be required nation wide. Nice job.
Thanks! Yeah I normally use it but at the time of this install it was impossible to find. Same with plastic bushings. Covid really jacked up the supply chain. It’s not required here anymore because the wire is an alloy and not regular aluminum. Thanks for watching!
any reason you didn't use dioxide type solution for the connections on the aluminum?
I didn’t have any, and the store was out. It’s actually not required anymore on the new aluminum alloy. It doesn’t oxidize like the old stuff.
Thank you for all these amazing videos.
I got a question, here in W.Virginia we are required to use Oxy guard on aluminum wire. I'm no electrician and I know very little about such things. Is aluminum wire prone to shrinkage and/or oxidization? Just asking as I don't know. Very informative video.
Years ago aluminum wire would oxidize and even harden up so it was necessary to use anti-ox compound. Aluminum wire today is actually an aluminum alloy, so it is no longer required. That being said, if I had some I would probably use it just because it doesn’t hurt. I couldn’t find it at the store, so I didn’t worry about it. I also couldn’t find plastic bushings that I needed for the chases, supplies are hard to come by these days.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead very much helpful, thanks. They don't always tell you this info when buying wire. Thank you.
Hes to stupid to put pentrox on aluminum
Stop doing electrical work
You're still supposed to use penetrox on it. At least in Canada it's in our electrical code.
Very good as I am prepping for a new gen and xfer panel install. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Are you allowed to use that middle panel as a raceway for the meter to ATS boxes?
Technically no, I was able to obtain special permission from my AHJ since it is existing and I was on a time crunch to get the power back on for my family.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead But in normal new builds you can't right?
@@jeepxj That is correct. You would want to get two conduit bodies and a piece of pipe, and come out of the bottom of the meter can and over to the bottom of the transfer switch.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead or a gutter right? then nipple back the ats output.
Article 312.8 I believe allows it
should the neutral be switched too when running off the genrator to prevent current from flowing on the gorund and neutal back to the generator? or do these whole home generators have a floating neutal?
Very good question. Since it’s feeding the first means of disconnect it’s not necessary. The first means neutral is connected to earth via the ground rod so there’s no unbalanced current feeding back to the generator.
ua-cam.com/video/M3lX4XtlYXk/v-deo.htmlsi=W-YvDtrRI3bkrVaE
9:18
Wondering about conduit fill between the generator and main breaker panel? Seems like there's too many for the conduit size?
Less than 24”. Stuff it as full as you can
@@MrSamsamsammy There are other issues there, still. But even code not withstanding, if you're cramming the wires in to get them through.. It might be too full xD
@@MrSamsamsammy Maybe it's jurisdictional but where I live filling a conduit more then 80% full requires derating all conductors. Doesn't matter about length, 1 inch, 1 foot. Over 80% it's a derate. Only exception in residential is when conductors pass through a hole in a stud, you can fill the hole as long as the cables seperate on either side of the stud. That's because a couple 15 amp runs won't generate that much heat under load. and either side the stud cavity offers enough air to keep conductors cool. Same conductors in conduit, the 80% rule applies.
Great job! EGC should enter the 1st means of disconnect right from the ground rods. And bushings, clamps at the bottom of the pans also. Great video!
Are you saying he should of ran the ground rod to the transfer switch box?
@@robertditz Not the ground rod🤣 Ground Rods are EGE.
Thank You@@jamescollins8148
@@jamescollins8148 No they are just GE (grounding electrodes)
Forgot the bushings. You also can not run service conductors and feeders in the same raceway. Besides that great video. Thanks for sharing.
or not use penetrox on al cable.
@@keything8487 That's not actually in the NEC anymore although some jurisdictions still require it.
@@SeanLeonDrumz here in central Florida they do
It’s a municipality thing, not a NEC code.
It was a big help. How about the low voltage part..? I can install a generator now after watching this video
Thanks for watching! There are 4 videos in that playlist, it goes over the low voltage and everything.
As a mechanic, I use torque wrenches frequently, and have noticed torque specs for terminal fasteners. Are these commonly torqued in the field?
Technically they are supposed to be per the NEC. It generally only happens in commercial work though from what I’ve seen. I know a lot of electricians and I think only one has a torque wrench.
110.14(D) Terminal Connection Torque. Tightening torque values for terminal connections shall be as indicated on equipment or in installation instructions provided by the manufacturer. An approved means shall be used to achieve the indicated torque value.
I don"t understand why no compound was used on terminal connections. It looks like aluminum wire.
Having installed service entrance wires and using a torque wrench, I can tell you, you have to tighten them down more than you would think otherwise. I had the panel the house came with fail due to loose connections and I did the install/work on the replacement service panel. It’ll be more important the higher a houses load is. I foresee lots of houses having problems after one electrifies and starts adding more heavy loads like car charging. All my problems manifested after electrifying the house away from gas.
Looks good thanks for sharing the information I always wondered how these generator set up works. I learned something new today
Is there any max fill rate for the pvc, when used like this?
It's America so probably not.
Being a European myself I find it cringe af seeing it all packed like this gives me chills of a fire or something. I would have at least put another conduet from mains going to the top of the boxes rather than route it through bottom of both boxes just for aesthetics, simplicity and safety. Way too much in one condu.
@@tdkyt46 Two things come to mind, 1). it's a very short run, only a few inches, and 2). at any time only half the wires could have current because of the disconnect switch. Might not meet code but in reality I'd guess the danger factor is zero.
Keith R.... yes. NEC chapter 9 table 1 has Information for calculating the inside diameter for various conduit types and sizes and wire outside diameter for the various wires/insulation. Use this if you are putting different sizes in the same conduit.
NEC annex C (also back of book) has charts for various conduits and wire typed/sized. ie. No. 12 THHN in a one inch PVC schedule 40 is 25 wires (nec page 70-791).
Hope that gets you started.
@@JRP3 you put two cond sections together there. Ch 9 table 1 is for how many wires you can fit. And 310.14/15 wire capacity and correction factors.
Totally beautiful job it looks great! Only one thing I was curious how come to worse in any No ox Put on the wires so they don’t corrode episodes that totally incredible job looks really cool
When working on these type panels live (e.g., when the covers were put back on or making voltage measurements, Category 2 PPE is typically needed (Per OSHA and NPFA 70E)). Recommend a review of 29 CFR 1910 Subpart S and NFPA 70E. Those references may save your life or prevent a serious injury.
Thanks for sharing. In my case the power company pulled the jack at the transformer so everything was dead.
@@MaynardFamilyHomestead Agreed, when the work was done, the circuits were de-energized. However, PPE is needed, especially after an install, when you are checking the system with a multi-meter. Per OSHA and NFPA 70E, PPE is also needed after the power company disconnects the power and you are checking the system in an electrically safe work condition. With more homes and businesses having additional alternate power sources (e.g., solar), the PPE is needed now than ever when verifying as
system is de-energized.
@@jcreeker5581 true story
Just lick it and see if it is hot....
While you are correct in that the rules do require safety PPE the fact is that following these rules to the letter would literally take the simplest of jobs and turn them into nightmares. In places like Florida where the heat and humidity are stupid the PPE would likely cause dangerous heat issues. I work hot, allot! Not due to a callous disregared for my safety but some work simply must happen that way. Allot of these rules are there simply to minimize insurance claims and because stupid people do stupid stuff that results in damage, injury, and death. The only point in the videos with power would have been the meter jaws at the top of the can and the lug/ bar assembly from the underground. So not much exposure overall.
I'm glad you mentioned the lack of neatness, but unfortunnutly I think that is the norm not the exception these days.
Nobody takes pride in their work anymore, it’s sad.
I noticed you did NOT use a bonding agent, is that not code where your located ?
Bonding agent? Is that what you call no ox the gray anti oxidation compound?
It is not required by NEC unless required by the equipment manufacturer.
Ditto on corrosion prevention on aluminum wire, and watch those torques on the tightening the lugs, Been a electrical contractor since the early eighties. other wise nice job., looks like transfer switch switches all power to other sub panels in the home? Wire size from generator looks a bit undersized, but don't know KW of Gen and or your load.
Thanks! It’s a 24kw with 100a feeders. I used 2-2-4-6. My home load is around 70 amps with the AC running so I didn’t need load shedding devices thankfully.
4:45 doesn't the piece of horizontal conduit going into the panel on the far right need a plastic insulating bushing, or is it ok with out one because its pvc?
Good catch! Any PVC MA 1 1/4” and larger is supposed to have a bushing. I just couldn’t find any in 4 different stores I went to. Material shortages are a thing right now in Florida.
I keep getting anxious he's going to snap the lugs with that "torque" wrench lol. Looks like a good install.
😎 Thanks for watching!
I am not an electrician, but I love electric and am not scared to work with it. Great video and great install!! I assume you have a sub panel in the basement or somewhere inside the house that you have the rest of the breakers for the house. Well done!
First means of disconnect. All newer meters /new code. U have to have an outside disconnect for fire dept. transfer switch is also a disconnect, meaning if u didn’t have a disconnect before u have to separate your neutrals and grounds.
@@shawnfschooleyjr6592 Re: Disconnect -- Only if the 2020 code has been adopted by the Jurisdiction -- 2017 Code does not have 230.85.
@@retiredperson4054that is correct
Thanks for the video! Why did you bond the ground rod to the neutral in the meter base instead of the service panel?
Funny how you have him stand clear. Not gonna lie I’m scared of house panels. Had one blow up in my face. I work in a power plant wear it’s safer. 😂
Lol I’m used to the big commercial panels. I had an arc blast from a residential panel as well, was blind for 5-10 mins and burnt my hair and eyebrows. Scared me hood!
It’s funny but true, power plants are probably a lot safer! 😂
I enjoyed watching this installation. I have one question: are you supposed to install 2 different power sources through the same conduit?
Looks like you are using aluminum wire. I don't like it because if it starts heating, things go downhill pretty quickly. Happened in the plant where I worked. Flash overs brighter than the Sun. If I have to work with it, I apply Nocor to all lug connections. You did a good job there. I assume you double checked utility power was off before starting the job. Be safe.
hello was just wondering should you use no lox on all the bare connections and when you tighten the aluminum id tight and loosen then tight and loosen so all the strans compress then use a torque wrench
amazing work, my only question. did an inspector ask you to install a second conduit fitting to pass the wires? up here we need an inch or so of free space
Yes,. Four 4/0 alum , two 2/0 alum and 1 ground wire is too much for 2.5" PVC conduit.
Looks like a nice install. Thanks for sharing