This was a fantastic video, Mani! I love the actual demonstration of the climbing principles that you are talking about! It really helps me (I am a very visual person) to see the Pump O' Meter and listen to your voice over while watching an actual climb that you did. That is the way I learn best, so keep it up! Loved it!!!
Nice Pumpometer 💪 . 3 Points 1.one more Camera from side angle to make it nicer to watch and to see the route better 2.put all your good tips in a small list and show it because following a 10 min Edit with so much Info is hard to remember right at the end. 3.keep on going thumb up from Berlin.
This made me realize that whenever I climb anything harder than 5:11c I bet my "pump meter" would just skyrocket instantly and I'd either be forced to top it before max pump comes in or just fall (falling happens most of the time in this case lmao)
Two other tips for beginners that are finding they just can't rest on anything but the most gigantic jugs on fairly vertical terrain. 4x4s (or just do laps as long as you can) on stuff that will keep you at the edge of pumped to increase your overall endurance will get you to the point where you aren't actually still gassing out on a rest (hopefully your gym has some auto-belays on a slightly slabby wall to make training easier). This is especially helpful for overhang were rests put more and more weight on your arms. For increasing the ability to rest on smaller holds on more vertical terrain, do lots of hangboard exercises trying to get on smaller crimps. A warning on this though, if you are still brand new to climbing and haven't really had your tendons heal from the initial stretching of being a noob be careful getting onto smaller holds. Crimping ability progression is something that should never be rushed as you have a chance of screwing up all sorts of connective tissue. Be very comfortable on one size of crimp before going down to the next.
Pump o Meter is a great idea! Although I've always monitored my pump, the Pump o Meter is a great visualization tool. I try to visualize the Pump o Meter when I'm resting at a stance now. The advice about thinking which hand to rest more for the next part of the climb is great! Thanks!
Hey Mani, I wanted to say your videos are awesome and you've inspired me. I've decided to set a goal of reaching V7 by the new year, and V10 by next summer(I started climbing again this summer and can flash about 80% of the V5s I attempt right now). Im sure using the advice in your videos I'll be able to at least make some progress even if I fall short, wish me luck!
Very good video! I will add that you can use your voice more...growls, grunts, yells if necessary (Ondra the master). I am also using some breathing techniques from Wim Hof.
Great video, I appreciate your use of breathing techniques not only help relax the arm while shaking out but also to activate the muscles when preparing to continue climbing. Have you ever experimented with the G-Tox shake out technique(alternating between having the arm elevated and dangling while you shake it out)? If so what was your experience?
I only shake out downwards, sometimes I also close and open my shaking hand, but apart from that nothing fancy. If I remember I'll try it sometimes, thanks for the hint.
Try something else for a while. Maybe train more in the direction of one armers for a while, to get more max strength (usually weighted pull ups are a quite endurancy stimulus, except if you add really high weight)
In terms of strength. Also, is there a certain rep and set scheme to follow for each one of them? So far, I have been doing 3 sets 3 reps for weighted pull ups
Ronaldo Messina no, all I'm saying is that if you claim to climb a route in a certain style (red point) the general consensus is that you do not pre clip further than the first bolt. It seems that in this video the 2nd bolt was pre clipped. I know they are very close to each other, however I believe it would have been quiet a bit harder to clip it while climbing.
MultiNarf oh ok now I see what you meant, thanks for clarifying. Indeed those look to be hard clips and pre-clipping the second seems to make it less hard. Ethics and Safety are not always at the same side, it is not an easy balance to strike.
Mani, you are becoming a master of the climbing analysis video format, I have not seen anything better out there. Keep going full force ahead!!!
The type of channel where I hit the like button before watching the video..
This was a fantastic video, Mani! I love the actual demonstration of the climbing principles that you are talking about! It really helps me (I am a very visual person) to see the Pump O' Meter and listen to your voice over while watching an actual climb that you did. That is the way I learn best, so keep it up! Loved it!!!
I'm glad you liked it Chris! Thanks for your massive support by the way!
Nice Pumpometer 💪 .
3 Points
1.one more Camera from side angle to make it nicer to watch and to see the route better
2.put all your good tips in a small list and show it because following a 10 min Edit with so much Info is hard to remember right at the end.
3.keep on going thumb up from Berlin.
Thanks for the feedback Stanley, appreciated!
Take notes dude... he is already giving us the tips kkkk
Thanks. I will try to incorporate this at the rock gym today. I’ve also been wanting to know good ways to reduce pumped arms in between routes.
Probably the most insightful climbing video I have ever watched!! Absolutely fantastic Mani
This made me realize that whenever I climb anything harder than 5:11c I bet my "pump meter" would just skyrocket instantly and I'd either be forced to top it before max pump comes in or just fall (falling happens most of the time in this case lmao)
Congrats on the send & thank you for the analysis! Will practice on breathing to fight off the pump... Long, deep, lower frequency to relax.
Two other tips for beginners that are finding they just can't rest on anything but the most gigantic jugs on fairly vertical terrain.
4x4s (or just do laps as long as you can) on stuff that will keep you at the edge of pumped to increase your overall endurance will get you to the point where you aren't actually still gassing out on a rest (hopefully your gym has some auto-belays on a slightly slabby wall to make training easier). This is especially helpful for overhang were rests put more and more weight on your arms.
For increasing the ability to rest on smaller holds on more vertical terrain, do lots of hangboard exercises trying to get on smaller crimps. A warning on this though, if you are still brand new to climbing and haven't really had your tendons heal from the initial stretching of being a noob be careful getting onto smaller holds. Crimping ability progression is something that should never be rushed as you have a chance of screwing up all sorts of connective tissue. Be very comfortable on one size of crimp before going down to the next.
rushthezeppelin pro tipp from Adam Ondra: don't start hangboarding unless you're climbing more than 2 years.
I really enjoyed the pump-o-meter (credit: Stanley). It's a new visualization to use when climbing with pump management. Thanks, Mani!
Pump o Meter is a great idea! Although I've always monitored my pump, the Pump o Meter is a great visualization tool. I try to visualize the Pump o Meter when I'm resting at a stance now.
The advice about thinking which hand to rest more for the next part of the climb is great! Thanks!
Badass climbing! Thanks for the tips
Such a cool video :) You look healthy
Excellent explanation. Many information so it should be seen more than once
Very useful skill for sport climb
thank you so much for your share
I love your video
I really like such videos. Well done by climbing and editing!
Hey Mani, I wanted to say your videos are awesome and you've inspired me. I've decided to set a goal of reaching V7 by the new year, and V10 by next summer(I started climbing again this summer and can flash about 80% of the V5s I attempt right now). Im sure using the advice in your videos I'll be able to at least make some progress even if I fall short, wish me luck!
I'm glad to hear I inspired you William, good luck!
Great video and congrats on the send!
First time first hehe ;) Great video again! Thy for the work =)
Great insights!
👍👍thank you
Very good video! I will add that you can use your voice more...growls, grunts, yells if necessary (Ondra the master). I am also using some breathing techniques from Wim Hof.
Loved the naruto song at the end hahaha
Great video, I appreciate your use of breathing techniques not only help relax the arm while shaking out but also to activate the muscles when preparing to continue climbing. Have you ever experimented with the G-Tox shake out technique(alternating between having the arm elevated and dangling while you shake it out)? If so what was your experience?
I only shake out downwards, sometimes I also close and open my shaking hand, but apart from that nothing fancy. If I remember I'll try it sometimes, thanks for the hint.
Wo ist die Route?
Geiles Video!!
Thanks, Thalhofergrat.
Just curious, what leaves were you plucking?
Stinging nettles, only the goood stuff
Lol when the pump bar goes up and i see u strggling i can feeeelll the pain man
Hehe that's the purpose :D
I think the real trick is the Bärlauch!! xD
Mani, do you ever heard that you should shake your arms with it relaxed and then with it lifted? What you think about it?
Anyway, nice tips, thanks!
Just saw somebody else commented this and you already answered.
I see your secret potion is that delicious nettle soup
Hey mani, i might have already asked this question, but I plateaued in weighted pull-ups and was wondering how I can get past the plateau
Try something else for a while. Maybe train more in the direction of one armers for a while, to get more max strength (usually weighted pull ups are a quite endurancy stimulus, except if you add really high weight)
maybe time to work another skill
In terms of strength. Also, is there a certain rep and set scheme to follow for each one of them? So far, I have been doing 3 sets 3 reps for weighted pull ups
hmm, maybe it's time to stop taking literal breaks on rope tension following clipping when getting tired? Def need more fall training...
Not trying to be a fuddy duddy but what are the ethics on clipping the second bolt? Great video though!
MultiNarf ground falls are a thing
I know, however that hasn't got anything to do with the style it was climbed.
what do you mean by "style"? the belayer taking rope as if lifting Mani? (it does not look like it is the case)
Ronaldo Messina no, all I'm saying is that if you claim to climb a route in a certain style (red point) the general consensus is that you do not pre clip further than the first bolt. It seems that in this video the 2nd bolt was pre clipped. I know they are very close to each other, however I believe it would have been quiet a bit harder to clip it while climbing.
MultiNarf oh ok now I see what you meant, thanks for clarifying. Indeed those look to be hard clips and pre-clipping the second seems to make it less hard. Ethics and Safety are not always at the same side, it is not an easy balance to strike.