Detailed RV Inverter Installation | Victron Multiplus 3000va Inverter Charger
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- Part two of our RV electrical system videos is all about our Victron Multiplus 3000va inverter charger. This RV inverter installation took me a full week, but was totally worth it!
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BATTERIES
🔋Save $50 on Battle Born Batteries bit.ly/BattleBorn50
🔋Victron 3000 MultiPlus Inverter amzn.to/3eZIWr1
⚡️Surge Protector amzn.to/32ST9TD
🔋4/0 Battery Cable amzn.to/3eZnTVm
🔋Main 400amp fuse amzn.to/34AVza5
🔋Inverter 300 amp Fuse amzn.to/3GecSf2
🔋Blue Sea On/OFF Switch amzn.to/3JJMGea
🔋Busbar 300 amp amzn.to/33X0OQI
🔋BusBar 400 amp amzn.to/3zzN1ve
🔋4/0 battery lugs w/ heat shrink amzn.to/3IufBSh
🔋Victron Bluetooth Battery Monitor amzn.to/3F8tmUt
🔋Victron Cerbo WiFi Monitor amzn.to/31EPQPi
TOOLS
🛠 Battery Crimper amzn.to/3Kxouwb
🛠Battery cable cutter amzn.to/3FLQdWk
🛠Heat shrink gun amzn.to/3tQV1HH
🛠Multi Meter(voltmeter) amzn.to/3Al0RSw
🛠Ferrel crimper amzn.to/3AkZQdx
🛠Ferrel crimper amzn.to/3tQWxJT
🛠Plastic Scraper amzn.to/3qN2W6U
🛠Heat Shrink amzn.to/3KoDdcJ
SOLAR
☀️240 Watt Solar Panel amzn.to/3q3eBy2
☀️Victron 150/85 Smart Mppt Solar Controller amzn.to/3n9giIf
☀️Panel mounts amzn.to/33DALyr
☀️2 pole breaker amzn.to/3ArzwhS
☀️1in Wood screws amzn.to/3Ims3TL
☀️Mc4 connectors amzn.to/34Y6BpN
☀️Roof Port Box amzn.to/3Ky6Ms8
☀️Rubber tubing for Dicor amzn.to/3KszWJf
☀️MC4 cable extension amzn.to/3Ag66De
☀️Butyl Tape amzn.to/3qKYx45
☀️Dicor self-leveling amzn.to/3AqqZeX
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👫 ABOUT US➡ Hello! We are Aaron and Chris, a fulltime RV couple that lives and works on the road! We run an online fitness and nutrition coaching business (Irene Iron Fitness) while traveling all around the country. Follow along the journey with us!
🚐Read our Story: ireneironfitness.com/quitting...
💪Shop Online Coaching Packages: ireneironfitness.com/online-f...
🍎Browse IIF Healthy Recipes: ireneironfitness.com/healthyr...
💎IIF AFFILIATES: These are programs and products we use, love, and recommend!
👉Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/ireneiron...
👉Rad Power Bikes bit.ly/3lbsaGM
👉Battle Born Batteries tinyurl.com/2s3me6b5
👉Undersun Resistance Bands: bit.ly/2RiP41C 💰 "IreneIron" for 10% off all kits, bundles,etc
👉Thousand Trails: mbsy.co/DLw8W 💰 Save $100
👉Harvest Hosts: www.harvest-hosts.com/95RRF5/... 💰 Save 15% "HHFRIENDS15"
#RVLiving
#RVLife
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0:00 Intro
0:39 Overview- RV Inverter Installation
4:08 Mounting the RV Inverter
6:07 Battery Cables & Heat Shrink
7:13 AC Breaker Panel and Converter
8:11 Running the AC Wiring
11:55 RV Surge Protector Explained
14:51 AC Wire Explained Solid Core Romex vs Flexible Marine Wire
16:32 Hooking up the AC Side
18:44 Hooking up the DC Side
19:45 Testing the System
20:54 Victron Bluetooth Dongle
22:50 Overview - Victron Multiplus 3000va Inverter Charger
Good to see this install. The inverter is all I have left for my install on my Arctic Fox. Following your wire route decisions gives me some guidance. Thanks for sharing.
Very well done video. I installed my inverter and didn't document nearly as well. I ran the AC wires in PVC conduit zip tied to the propane pipe. So far so good. It travels well. I used "a lot" of zip ties. I also removed the converter totally it was just a easy as just unhooking the wires.
Yes!!! I can finally finish mine once it's above zero outside!
🤣 Alright!
Aaron, nice job on the install. I have a few things to add and a couple of suggestions. First, the reason that it is suggested to install the multiplus (or any other battery charger for that matter) close to the batteries is to eliminate the voltage drop associated with long runs of thin wires. Since you’re using 4/0 you should be okay. but what you want to do is to enable Smart Networking on your MultiPlus so that it uses the voltage detected at the shunt ( which IS closer to the batteries) to set the it’s output charging voltage. Next, you failed to mention (or include in the video) that the MultiPlus needs to be programmed/setup via a laptop or other computer. I assume that you had it pre-programmed from BattleBorn, which is a service they offer, so you didn’t need to do this step.You need to be careful in the future about firmware upgrades, etc if you don’t backup your settings to a PC file. BTW, when you enable Smart Networking for the MultiPlus, you should also enable it for the SmartSolar controller as well, What Smart Networking does is have all of the charging device use ONE source for batter voltage measurement instead of their individual measurements. This keeps all of your charging systems in the same charging mode at all times. And give everyone the same state of charge information about your batteries. Finally, another tool that you might consider adding to your arsenal is a torque screwdriver (usually associated with firearms) that you can find off of Amazon, this lets you torque the batter connections and more importantly the circuit breaker screws, to the correct value. If you have questions about Smart Networking please let me know and I’ll contact you via your website. Again.. nice job!
Hey Marv, thanks for the comment! Great points you bring up. BB did program this one, but I did have to program my last one in the van so I do still have the MK3 to make adjustments. I feel like programming could be a whole video topic and I definitely don’t have that mastered! I do have smart networking enabled on my shunt, mppt, and inverter but didn’t know much about it. Thanks for pointing that out. I don’t remember if it popped up after installing the cerbo gx and networking wires??? The Cerbo Is also very new to me and I’m still learning… thanks for the heads up on the torque screwdriver. I’ll put it in my list!
Aaron, congrats on completing the install all by your lonesome. It certainly can be daunting. Such a relief when you throw the switch and there is NO smoke!
Thanks Mike! Yeah, this one was kinda tough for me…. It took the full week….. but turned out great! 👍
@@IreneIronTravels Chris, didn't mean to imply you weren't there to help. I'm sure you gave moral support, shot some or all the video and told Aaron when he was about to make a mistake! LOL
🤣 that sounds about right! She actually did have to help me shoot some footage post install where I couldn’t get under the RV with my bum leg. 🤣
Built in surge protector is a must in an inverter system like this, you dont want some crappy miswired pedestal to fry your awesome Victron inverter. Our surge protector faulted with our honda eu2200 generator because of the unbound neutral, we use a special ground to neutral binding plug in the other generator plug to clear this fault. I also love using ferrels, makes a much cleaner install with a better connection, less resistance. Definitely use 6/3 wire. Great idea to check every wire before “flipping”. I always get nervous before the switch. Larry
Aaron sure hope that ankle is feeling a little better. Gosh your presentation is Fab! You’re so good at this and helping many in different stages of getting out of Dodge :) Got interrupted this morning and finishing it at midnight now lol. Appreciate all you do for us.
Thanks so much Mary! These videos aren't as entertaining🤣...but we love to share the information!
Aaron, thanks for providing such an informative video. I just purchased a Multiplus for my 30 amp system RV. With a little assistance, and thanks to your video, a lot of the "unkinown" has been eliminated. Kind regards, Dan
Glad it was helpful! Enjoy the new Multiplus!
Excellent video! I’m doing dual 24/3000 multiplus units and have the same issue of the gear being in the forward pass through and the power center is at the rear under the fridge. You really helped me visualize what I need to do!
Glad it helped! Good luck with your setup, sounds like a good one!
Thank you for such a detailed video. It really help answer some questions I had.
You bet, thanks for watching!
I have an Outdoors RV as well. Especially the notes on how you fished the AC cable! This video was so helpful and along with exploration.life, this made my project go so relatively smooth…
One note: I looked into using 6/3 AC wire for the inverter to the distribution center. The distribution centers on our 30amp Outdoors RVs are rated only to 30amp, so you ended up with the right gauge after all.
Your explanation of everything was spot on!!! Now I know exactly how to hook up the AC side in the back of the panel
Thanks, appreciate that! Glad it helped.
Can't wait to watch your solar install!
Great video. This is the first video that iv'e seen that even mentions the DC negative case ground. This wire is arguably the most important wire in this entire setup. To add, if it hasn't already been said. The reasons for having the case ground wire be as large as the DC negative is, if in the very rare event there is a fault in the inverter between the DC posative and the inverter case, that negative wire has to be capable of carrying the full DC fault current which can be several hundred amps, depending on your battery bank, long enough for a fuse to blow or a breaker to trip. This conductor also has to be connected at the very source of the main DC negative bus bar or chassis ground. There can not be smaller gauge earth wires between it and the main negative ground source or those wires will carry the full fault current and melt or burn up.
Thank you so much for the in depth video. Very clear and easy to follow the installation process.
You bet, thanks for watching Scooter!
Another great explanation of the system. I'm basically looking at the same system for a Winnebago Micro Minnie 1800BH. I'm planing on 3 of the SOK 200 AH batteries. I'm going to remove the bottom bunk, install two of the batteries in the pantry on the floor, the other battery next to the pantry wall on the bunk floor. That will put the weight directly above and between the rear axles The back of the pantry wall will hold the asst fuses, solar charger, etc. I'm going to use the Multiplus 3000 also. I'll mount that on the bunk floor. The trailers elec. control panel is located directly across from the Multiplus.....should be easy wiring from the MultiPlus to elec panel. That's the plan for now at least.
Great video. Thank you for the detailed explanation.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching it!
Hello Chris and Aaron! Thank you very much for your comprehensive talk through of your inverter install! Very informative! I, too, opted to do a hard wired EMS at the same time since all of the fuse panel wirings were going to be manipulated. I went with the Hughes EMS also, because of the app technology. I did like the Progressive Industries feature that you could override the EMS cutoff in an emergency; but fact of the matter is we will hardly ever be plugged in anyways.
Great work on your system!
Hey Alan, Thanks! It is a nice feeling to just have an EMS built in and protecting! Love the Bluetooth feature. Already worked notifying me that the campground power went out.....good thing it didn't bother us much!
@@IreneIronTravels ha….the power drop should have been seamless as that inverter is supposed to switch to battery power in like .0000002 seconds.
Yes…,I didn’t want to deal with plugging in another device (portable EMS). I like the app with it too!
thank you. firing up my victron today!
Nice, congrats and enjoy!😊⚡️
Wow, awesome install video Aaron! I want to be just like you when I grow up!!! LOL Seriously though, this is super helpful content - thank you!
🤣 thanks! 🙏
Irene Iron Travels, love your work and your videos. I own a similar ORV trailer and just finished a very similar power upgrade using the Victron MultiPlus-II 2x 120V. Unfortunately, I found your video two days after finishing my work. I’ve blogged about my work, but am not talented enough to make videos. 😊 Thanks again for your work and for sharing.
Hey Kelly! Glad to hear you got your ORV upgraded with a Multiplus II. Soooo nice to have the power!⚡️💪
Great job! Congratulations!!!
Thank you so much 😀
Great great great video!!!!
I am enjoying you content. Keep up the good work.
Great video guys. Definitely getting the same setup for our 5th wheel.
Thanks, we are loving the system ! Are you guys going to do it yourselves?
@@IreneIronTravelsmaybe looking into it. Definitely alot to learn about it.
Next time we see you guys would love to chat about full time living. looks like you guys have got it down.👍👍
Nice install video !!!! Thanks for posting....big help for our micro lite....
Glad it helped!
Of all the videos I've watched about the install, I think yours is the most thorough. I finally "get" how the existing stuff is powered by the victron multiplus! Thank you!
I'm curious to know why some recommend the Lynx distribution 1000A thingy but you didn't use one.
Hey thanks Paul appreciate that! The Lynx is nice because it combines the bus bars and the fuses into one neat package. I think it also can communicate with the other victron devices to let You know if a fuse is blown… but it’s not necessary to have one. I would probably put one in my next system though, know that I know more about them!
Great information. I am putting almost the same system in my Chinook RV so very helpful
Glad it was helpful! Gonna be one electrified Chinnok when your done👍⚡️
Nice job !! As always thank you for sharing this video with me!!! BS &BK
Thanks Larry! BS & BK!
If anyone is considering a similar installation in a 5th wheel or other 50A electrical service type of coach/RV, Victron makes a 50A version of the Multiplus
🙏🏻Thanks 4 watching! 👍 If the video helped you out!
🔋Save $50 on Battle Born Batteries bit.ly/BattleBorn50
🔋Victron 3000 MultiPlus Inverter amzn.to/3eZIWr1
🔋4/0 Battery Cable amzn.to/3eZnTVm
🔋Main 400amp fuse amzn.to/34AVza5
🔋Inverter 300 amp Fuse amzn.to/3GecSf2
🔋Blue Sea On/OFF Switch amzn.to/3JJMGea
🔋Busbar 300 amp amzn.to/33X0OQI
🔋BusBar 400 amp amzn.to/3zzN1ve
🔋4/0 battery lugs w/ heat shrink amzn.to/3IufBSh
🔋Victron Bluetooth Battery Monitor amzn.to/3F8tmUt
🔋Victron Cerbo WiFi Monitor amzn.to/31EPQPi
TOOLS
🛠 Battery Crimper amzn.to/3Kxouwb
🛠Battery cable cutter amzn.to/3FLQdWk
🛠Heat shrink gun amzn.to/3tQV1HH
🛠Multi Meter(voltmeter) amzn.to/3Al0RSw
🛠Ferrel crimper amzn.to/3AkZQdx
🛠Ferrel crimper amzn.to/3tQWxJT
🛠Plastic Scraper amzn.to/3qN2W6U
🛠Heat Shrink amzn.to/3KoDdcJ
SOLAR
☀240 Watt Solar Panel amzn.to/3q3eBy2
☀Victron 150/85 Smart Mppt Solar Controller amzn.to/3n9giIf
☀Panel mounts amzn.to/33DALyr
☀2 pole breaker amzn.to/3ArzwhS
☀1in Wood screws amzn.to/3Ims3TL
☀Mc4 connectors amzn.to/34Y6BpN
☀Roof Port Box amzn.to/3Ky6Ms8
☀Rubber tubing for Dicor amzn.to/3KszWJf
☀MC4 cable extension amzn.to/3Ag66De
☀Butyl Tape amzn.to/3qKYx45
☀Dicor self-leveling amzn.to/3AqqZeX
💙Subscribe - ua-cam.com/users/ireneironfitness
💻 Website - ireneironfitness.com
💵 Store - www.amazon.com/shop/ireneironfitness
👫 ABOUT US➡ Hello! We are Aaron and Chris, a fulltime RV couple that lives and works on the road! We run an online fitness and nutrition coaching business (Irene Iron Fitness) while traveling all around the country. Follow along the journey with us!
🚐Read our Story: ireneironfitness.com/quitting-our-jobs-traveling-the-country/
💪Shop Online Coaching Packages: ireneironfitness.com/online-fitness-and-nutrition-coaching-packages/
🍎Browse IIF Healthy Recipes: ireneironfitness.com/healthyrecipes/
💎IIF AFFILIATES: These are programs and products we use, love, and recommend!
👉Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/ireneironfitness
👉Rad Power Bikes bit.ly/3lbsaGM
👉Battle Born Batteries battlebornbatteries.com?afmc=2n
👉Undersun Resistance Bands: bit.ly/2RiP41C 💰 "IreneIron" for 10% off all kits, bundles,etc
👉Thousand Trails: mbsy.co/DLw8W 💰 Save $100
👉Harvest Hosts: www.harvest-hosts.com/95RRF5/2CTPL/ 💰 Save 15% "HHFRIENDS15"
Aaron = smart AF
🤣🙏😊
Did you do the solar panel install video yet. I have been following your install that I am doing on my RV. And I'm almost ready to install the Pannels. Thanks for the very good explanation of your equipment.
I haven’t done that video yet… it’s on my list though. 😊 I have a list of all the components I used in the description of my battery and inverter videos. But , basically I mounted them with butyl tape between the panel feet and the roof. 3/4 to 1 inch wood screws. And dicor self leveling sealant on top of everything. The five 240 watt panels are wired in series so I could use the factory 8 gauge wires. 120volts by about 10amps. Into a victron 150/80mppt. I followed a lot of advice from Nate on explorist.life
Actually a lot use a sub panel or ac out 2.
My tiffin on inverter mode had no power to ac units. Electric fire place washer dryer. But I have water heater, fridge, outlets, microwave.
I prefer the sub panel option.
Very nice system! I have my eye on a new Class B rig by Grech. They come with an option for all electric coach with 1,260 amp hour Lithionics batteries with 280 amp auxiliary alternator, and 3,000 inverter, 300 watt solar.
Oh nice! That is an awesome system! Would love all electric ⚡️.
Love this series! You did a ton of awesome work, some of it with a band ankle too. I do have a question about the power from the truck when towing. In an earlier video you hooked up the 12v of the RV direct to the battleborn batteries. What happens to the constant 12v feed from the 7 pin connector on your truck?
Hey thanks 🙏. The truck does feed about 70 watts/5 amps to the RV batteries when plugged in. It’s not much….. but it’s something. I have a DC2DC charger in the truck already feeding the second battery system in the truck that runs our Dometic fridge.
KVa Vs Watts. = Power Factor
Inverters are rated as KVa and so a 3000 KVa inverter when multiplied by a power factor of 0.8 would give it's watt equivalent of 2,400w.
Thank you for this video. I’m in the process of a similar install with the same inverter and was wondering if you installed a 120V breaker between your surge protector and the inverter? It seems like your main breaker is now located after the inverter and I’m just curious if this matters.
Best detail I've seen yet for LI battery and inverter/charger install. I guess the solar install video never got done? Can you explain briefly how and where the solar controller connects to this setup?
Thanks! 🙏 Yes, I haven’t done the solar video…… But this RV had factory 8 awg wire from the roof port to the cabinet above the bed. Then it had a second run of 8awg wire up there that went to the underbelly. It was designed to put the charge controller above the bed in the cabinet. But I simply spliced the two runs of wire together with a good quality wire splice so I had a single run of 8 awg from the roof to the underbelly. On the roof I had the 5 solar panels wired in series to a mc4 connection in a water proof box junction that I replaced the factory solar port with. Which gave me the solar power all the way to underbelly. From there I had a breaker on/off switch. And then ran wire to under the bed where the charge controller is. Hope that helps!
@@IreneIronTravels Thank you so much for the reply. My main question is where/how the solar controller connects to the battery. Does it connect between the inverter/charger and the battery? Basically, directly to the battery? If so, are there any issues with the solar controller AND the inverter charger both sending current to the battery simultaneously? Or... does it go from the solar controller into the inverter/charger in some way?
I have a multi plus to 3000 in burger so when I install ditch I disconnected my converter because it was for lift the air for lead acid batteries and now I have lithium batteries do I need to replace my converter that will charge lithium batteries or is this build the end to the multi +2
I am finally excited to say I have the batteries, inverter, cerboGX and everything hooked up and working! I even ran the a/c today to make sure that worked! I finally got all my questions answered for the final hook up. I call what I have done - phase one and two. Now I am on to phase 3 - solar install! First can I ask you if you have had any heat issues with everything under the bed (except inverter, I know that is in the passthru)? I'm prepared to add a computer fan or something like that if needed but curious if you have had to do that? Regarding the solar install (still waiting on you video - LOL) are you happy with putting the charge controller under the bed? Do you wish you had put it above the bed like ORV does with the Zamp controller? Is it just as easy to rout the wires down to under the bed? Thanks for you info in advance! Keep trucking on the Unplugged challenge!
great videos...going to use pretty much the same design on my new travel trailer. when will the solar panel install video be available. Thanks for all the hard work and documenting the process. perfecto111
Thanks 🙏. I’m still sitting on all the solar install footage and just have To put together a video. Hopefully soon 👍
Looking forward to that as well. Considering the 22FQS !
👍👍👍
👍⚡️😊
Aaron great video sweet install...do you have a link to the ac marine cable you used?
Thanks Eric! Yes, here ya go amzn.to/34aT7Hj
Aaron I’ve been following ur battery install and multiplus install closely. I’m installing the multiplus this week.
1). I assume your 4/0 cable from the inverter goes to you bus bars and not directly to the batteries?
2). What did you ground the multiplus to? Did you make another hole to get to the frame?
3). Any ideas what the tacky material is that seals the plastic window (along w screws) in the belly of the trailer, where you gained access to redirect the cables going to the original batteries. I may need to add some more
Thanks so much for these videos
Hey there! 👋
1) Yes, 4/0 from the inverter to the busbars. Any positive and negative wires should go to the busbars and have appropriate fusing inline to keep it clean. ( And also 4/0 connecting the busbars to the batteries)
2) I used another 4/0 cable from the case ground to the neg busbar. ( So three total 4/0 cables from inverter. 1 DC positive cable, 1 DC neg cable, and 1 case ground cable) I then ran another 4/0 cable from the neg busbar to a screw on the chassis frame. Yes I know it's a lot of 4/0 cable! I fought myself...but in the end I wanted to do it right so I just used 4/0. According to the ABYC code you can use one size smaller for your chassis (case) ground, than your DC cables so in mine I could use a 3/0 cable. But... its just easier to use 4/0...... spendy.... but I feel real good its done right. ZERO problems with this system in 6 months so far! Congrats on your soon to be accomplishment!!
3) That tacky stuff just appears to be butyl tape. Same stuff to seal vent fans and other items on the roof and also what I used on my solar panel feet.
Thank you for this video, really appreciate it. Probably a stupid question, but the one thing that I dont understand is getting the shore power to the new inverter. I understand the need for two AC wires being ran... one from shore power to the inverter and another from the inverter back to the breaker to power the 110. But my assumption is that the original shore power goes from the power plug input directly to the old converter/charger... do you have to connect the original wire to your new AC wire with a junction or something that runs to the inverter? Long story short, i dont understand how it gets from the plug to the inverter. Thanks again for a great video.
Hello! Yes, you got it for the most part! You could run all new AC wire from your shore plug to your inverter. Or, what I did in this video, is use the existing factory AC wire from the shore plug to connect to my inline surge protector. I cut and removed the rest of the factory AC wire from the main breaker panel input. I then ran new AC wire from my surge protector output, to my inverter input. Then I ran new AC wire from my inverter output, back to the bracker panel input.
So the flow of power goes from the shore power------ to my surge protecter ----- then to the inverter-------- then back to the breaker panel. This way the whole RV breaker panel is "hot" while running off batteries.
Hey! On your inverter box ground wire, where did you tie that in to? Did it go to the frame of the trailer or did you tie it in to a negative/ground wire elsewhere? At the passthrough storage compartment where your inverter is (and where I'm putting mine), our trailers are basically the same. So it helps me to know what you did, that way I don't reinvent the wheel! Don't know if you are still in AZ but we just got some snow in the desert area!
Do you recommend a cutoff switch for the inverter?
I think the case ground pertains to the AC voltage not the DC, if I’m correct. The ground wire size in that “case” (no pun intended) should be same as your AC wire size (AWG10?). Correct me if I’m wrong. Good video tho. Thanks.
Its an earth ground wire that is essentially used by the inverter to allow GFCI outlets to function properly and also used in case of a DC fault to the case, so it has to be able to handle the full DC amperage of the system, which is what the DC negative wire should be sized for as well. In this scenario it has to be a cable the same size as the DC negative, or one size smaller, not the AC earth. If a fault occured on the DC side, it could be several hundred amps. #10 wire can only handle 30ish amps.
Excellently done good Sir.
I am purchasing the 2000 for my build and one of the pluses for me was the built in transfer switch whereas you stated something else about you pole line running through the transfer switch on your coach or did I misunderstand ?. Or perhaps the 3000 doesn’t have the built in transfer switch.
Thanks! Yes, the Multi 3000 does have a transfer switch, but it is only a switch to automatically go to DC power if the AC gets cut off. Or vice versa when it detects AC. I might have been talking about how most RV's with generators have a separate transfer switch that switches, between AC and generator power...
@@IreneIronTravels , thanks for your reply. Yes when I picked up my 3000 2x120 yesterday Victorian verified why I need a separate transfer switch.
Have a great day.
Hi, Great Video. Where did you get the Flexible Marine Wire?
Hey 👋 thanks. We got it from Amazon amzn.to/3goc7of
Great install for sure. I have been hearing you need to program your multiplus depending on the type of battery you have. How hard is it?
Thanks! Yes, you do need to program the multi, but it’s pretty easy and takes less than 10 minutes. You do need a laptop and a connector. amzn.to/3FbtGUR
Did you run your case ground to the frame? Great video!
Yes I did with 4/0. And thanks!
We have the same 22FQS as you. Did you remove the converter since you didn’t need it anymore? I assume it can be separated from the panel. Nice install.
Thanks! No, I do believe they are an “all in one” unit and don’t separate. I could be wrong…… but that’s what it looked like and I see progressive dynamics sells it that way.
Im Impressed. Thanks Aaron. I wonder How much is the Total cost to convert your Rig?
Thanks! It can get pretty spendy to do a big full system like ours. Parts are around $12,000 and labor could be $5000+ as well. But I will say its pretty amazing to be able to be off grid and run large appliances like air con, air fryer, electric heat, etc.
I'm guessing this is an on paved roads only RV ? The timber structure looks like something you'd find in a house build, except for the really nasty staples. In Aus, most van builders are catering for on/off-road or completely off-road rated. The trend over the last few years has been to have no timber in the structure to avoid the chance of water damage and furniture/cabinetry made from lightweight timber panels CNC'd to interlock for strength. I expect Aus vans are also a hell of a lot more expensive... Can't have it both ways :-(
Did you have a link for anchor marine grade cable ? Thanks
Yes, this is the stuff we used amzn.to/3OZ3xPq Thanks!
do you have a good method to measure the cable lengths needed? Lost of twists and turns to complicate things. 🙂
I wish I did! Mine was a pretty straight shot so I just measured and added an extra 10ft or so for cushion. I also ordered my cable on Amazon in bulk which was the same price for 100ft as to less than half that in the store.
Great walkthrough! Since I subbed to your channel a month ago I bought a Winnebago Micro Minnie trailer and now I currently have a 400ah battleborn all in one package in my cart 😂. The AC routing looks like the toughest part on deciding how to run from inverter to panel. I already have panels removed all over and am poking around studying the wiring. Any chance you have a discount code for battleborn as a partner?
Thanks! Yes, it all snowballs from here!🤣 The AC routing can be tricky for sure, but Once you find the path things fall into place. Unfortunately BB doesn’t offer discount codes. But you will love the power!
I’m dreading the process of removing the belly panels and running the ac power from the twin multiplus’ in the forward pass through back to the power center at the rear under the fridge.😣
Really appreciate your video. It is helpful since I also have an ORV but have a larger model. I've watched this video several times and finally getting ready to do my install. I want to make sure I understand disconnecting the converter. I get the part about running the a/c wires from the circuit breaker to the surge, then to the inverter and back to the circuit breaker. Then I know you have to disconnect the dc pos & neg (I have a 50 amp so there is two of each). Is there anything more? Anything else on the a/c end? Thanks so much for your help.
Hey Gary. Yes, I basically just disconnected the converter completely, because the Multiplus replaces it. I disconnected the (2)DC and (3)AC wires from the converter to the AC/DC breaker panel. Just to recap my AC wiring: Starts from the shore power plug the AC wires go to my inline surge protector. Then from the surge protector all the way to my Multiplus inverter. From the Multiplus they go back to the AC breaker panel to give power to all AC loads. Hope this helps and good luck!
@Irene Iron Travels I decided to hardwire the same Hughes auto former surg protector as well. I had a thought about cutting out a hole in the cabinet, the exact shape of the unit so I can see the white or red light when it turns on. I know it's not necessary because it's blue tooth to the phone. Do you think it's a waste of time or do you think there's a benefit to seeing the light? Just curious.
The light is VERY bright! So if it doesn’t effect your sleeping at night it would be a cool idea. But it’s bright! I’ve had it turn red one time in 1.5 years of full timing.
@Irene Iron Travels Yes, very bright! actually, it would literally be facing inside a cabinet (next to the converter unit) that has doors, so I won't see the light unless I open the doors! I think it's a cool idea but just not sure if I want to go to the trouble, lol! Thanks for your thoughts.
@@IreneIronTravels I hope I'm not being too bothersome! I just realized I have a breaker to the converter (I assume you did too). In essence, I could just shout off the breaker to the converter and call it good, however, I'm going to disconnect the wires to the converter just as you did. (FYI - I'm thinking that will free up a breaker if I ever want to run another line).
My question is this - when I installed the lithium batteries, I was able to run the existing wires to the battery back up into the trailer just as you did. I hooked them up to the new bus bars like you. I'm wondering, doesn't the pos & neg wire run from the converter to the battery disconnect (up front) and then to the new bus bars? Once I disconnect the pos & neg from the converter, those wires won't be necessary? Am I thinking right? Does that disconnect switch up front become unnecessary or does it still work in some manner? I assume the inverter now takes the place of the original converter, thereby making the pos & neg wires from the converter useless? Can you help me on this thinking? Thanks so much!
Excellent video. We are looking at this now for our 5th wheel. The thing you pointed out that I hadn't realized (rookie) is that the output is only 2400 watts. Is there a reason why I wouldn't go with something like the Go Power IC3000 which provides an actual 3000 watts output? I hope you have time to answer as I'm really interested. I just subscribed and hot the bell too! Thank you, Ed
Hey there 👋. I would say most people go with Victron for the quality, reputation, and because they are also using other victron components like shunt, cerbo, solar controller, Bluetooth, etc. To me 2400 watts is enough while not hooked up to shore power as we would only run one high use appliance at a time anyway. Using 1400-1800 watts for the Micro, AC, water heater, etc. Even with us having 810 amps of lithium… using 3000 watts of power continuously is a lot! But, if you did need more continuous wattage there is nothing wrong with going with a Xantrax, Magnum, or IC3000.
@@IreneIronTravels thanks so much. The Victron distributor quoted us the whole enchilada and I’m really amped up about Victron. Just would really love to know what stacks up better, the IC3000 or the Victron.
I appreciate your time. Keep the videos rolling. Ed
Victron says to use 6/3 cable for 50A. Is your RV just one leg of 30A, or a big 50A plug?
Yes, ours is just a 30 amp Rv.
Did you use a torque wrench to tighten your electrical connections?
No, I don't have one, but someone did just recommend that to me and I will be adding on to my tool kit. Thanks!
Great video!! When wiring shore power to the Victron did you wire directly from the plug on the RV or did you pull it from the input at the breaker box and then connect the romex to the Victron?
Thanks! The shore power plug on the RV is wired directly to the input of the Victron and then the output of the Victron goes to the breaker box. That way the whole breaker box (including all the appliances and outlets) are "hot" when the inverter is on.
@@IreneIronTravels I get that part but did you run a whole new wire from the RV connector or use what was already there and continue it to the inverter?
Ahhh. It is original wire from the RV shore power plug for about 4 ft to the hardwired surge protector I put in. I ran new wire from there all the way to the front where my inverter is. Maybe 15-20 ft. And then I ran another run of wire from the inverter back to the breaker box.
@@IreneIronTravels Yea, I didn't watch the whole video when I asked that question. I planned to run the same EPH but mounting it next to the Inverter, I like your idea better.
@@IreneIronTravels ah this is the exact question i had. Thank you!
Just curious the model of your RV? I know it’s an ORV. I have a 26KVS I want to do the same thing to.
This one is the 22FQS. ua-cam.com/video/PwH8qypeRAE/v-deo.htmlsi=KBt7ufz9Zu2b952m
Why not use the multiplus II?
Too tall to fit vertically in most travel trailer passthrough compartments like this.
What size cable did you end up using on the ground?
I went with the 4/0. I think technically I could have used a 3/0 based on the rule, but that cable Is less common and more expensive than the 4/0.
Why not just get cord plug from inverter to shore connection then while rv runs off inverter
I suppose where I get confused is the fact I have a transfer switch. How is that configured
I have the same question. I’m thinking the Victron takes the place of the transfer switch. It does everything.
You can still have a transfer switch inline between the shore power and generator. We had this in our Sprinter Van install video. But since we don’t have a built in gen in this one the Victron will transfer between shore power and battery power.
Hi Aaron, I just received my Multiplus Inverter / charger today. I watched your video again and I have a question. Unlike your build-out, I have a 1999 Seabreeze RV and the converter is located close to the house batteries towards the front of the RV. It is a standalone converter with the DC distribution located nearby. My 110 circuit breakers and distribution is located close to the refrigerator on the other side of the RV. The converter was plugged into a standard 110 outlet located a few inches away. Here's my question. For my "AC input" line to the Multiplus, can I simply wire a three prong plug to the AC input line and then plug it into the existing 110 outlet? This would power the Multiplus in the same manner as the converter (now removed) was powered. I understand I would still need to run another 110 line to the 110 circuit breakers and connect it to the 30 amp main breaker to power the coach.
Hey Dan, you’re right it can be tricky because every RV is set up different! I don’t think you would be able to set it up this way. As I understand it, the way the Multi is designed is for the main power coming into the RV will go to the AC input. The AC output will then go back to your AC distribution/breaker box to power all of the breakers. That outlet is probably on a 15 amp breaker and shared with other things in your RV. Your Multi should be located as close to the batteries as possible and then the tricky part Is running those AC wires from the A C power in ( could be right from the shore plug, or a transfer switch, or in my case from the inline surge protector) and then back to your breaker panel.
Aaron, thank you very much! I will let you know when I have everything connected and working. Again, thank you for such an informative video, and your willingness to respond to those who listen and appreciate your efforts and contributions. Kind regards, Dan
Thanks and good luck! 👍
Sorry I have one question I dont understand. I are you running the AC wire from shore power to the Multiplus II invertor and then out of the Invertor to the fuse panel? If So how does the D/C get its power? Do you have to run 2 wires from the battery bank bus bar to the D/C side of the panel? Thank in advance
Yes, one AC wire goes from the shore power to the inverter and the second goes from the inverter to the fuse panel. The DC wires on the inverter only charge the batteries and draw power for the inverter to convert DC to AC. The RV gets it’s 12volt power directly from the batteries via the busbars. I didn’t have to run any DC wires to the fuse panel as the factory already does that. When I disconnected the factory batteries, I simply rehooked the factory 12 volt wires to my new bus bars. Hope that makes sense.
@@IreneIronTravels thank you now it makes sense so appreciate it
@@IreneIronTravels Thanks for the video. Are your factory 12v wires running to fuse panel 4ott like you installed from batteries to inv/conv. unit?
So do you have 30 amp service or 50 ?
This is a 30 amp RV and the inverter is 2400 watts. So with the inverter on batteries it's like a 20 amp service.
How much of the AC marine wire do you use out of the 100 ft roll ?
It was probably around 40ish ft... but It was cheaper than the 60ft roll for some reason and I knew I needed more that the 30ft roll! 👍
Thanks if you wanna come to Dayton, Ohio (70&75 crossroad) I have a spot for ya and we can do my solar installation on my Outdoor RV ! LOL !
🤣 I’m good on the installs for a while 🤣
Any issues with heat with battery’s under the bed
No. The inverter ( in our pass through) puts out the most heat while charging or large loads. But, no heat issues at all under the bed.
Thanks I’m looking at putting 400 ah under bed and inverter in pass through just want to make sure, I have no ventilation under the bed
You said it is a 2400 watt inverter. So that means you still can't run the hair dryer and air fryer at the same time because you'll be over the wattage?
Yes, that's probably true. Well it might run for a certain amount of time.....but if each appliance is 1800 watts you probably shouldn't. Victron says it can surge at 6000 watts so maybe it could do 3600 watts for so many seconds.... The way I run mine is only one large appliance at a time.
So if I add this unit to my 50 amp RV does that mean I can only run 1/2 of the receptacles that are on one of the legs?
I don't know much about 50 amp RV electrical as we've always had 30 amp, but I do believe you can only hook up one leg of 120v. I've seen people put two Multi plus's in 50 amp RV's or Victron also just came out with the Multiplus II that allows you to hook up two legs of 120 volt. amzn.to/3smKlxM
@@IreneIronTravels Thanks.
Take a look at the Victron MultiPlus-II 2x 120V that is a 3kVA inverter charger, but energizes both L1 and L2 of a 50 A RV.
Nothing about programming the Victron inverter?
This one was already programmed by Battle Born, but I did use this video to program the one on our van. ua-cam.com/video/iX5KO-oLrnc/v-deo.html
You better rewire your RV also if you didn't have power sharing before.
😳
🤣
Okay, so my brain is melting trying to figure out how the DC side of the panel got juice???? AC power AND DC power coming through the same wire????? Help me understand that part man. If you unhooked the factory converter, how????
We don’t want any brain 🧠 melting here. 🫠.🤣 If you pause the video at the 7:25 mark and look in the middle of the panel you’ll see a large (6awg) red and white wire. Those are the factory 12 volt wires that run all the way up front to the tongue where the original batteries were. There is actually a breaker under the RV up there too where I connected my positive bus bar from my new lithium battery bank. You can see this in my battery video at the 25:48 mark. 👍
ua-cam.com/video/QLY2wwIviJs/v-deo.html
Oh okay I see now thanks for taking the time out to give me some clarification
Always go from front too back...