Love my Whirlpool Ultimate Care II dryer, now 17 years old! I was going crazy trying to figure out the front clip & your detailed look gave me the exact thing to do. Thank you! Still cleaning it but had to compliment you & your hubs.
+Lagunaticmom glad it helped you. I actually went back and watched it when I needed to open it again. I actually just replaced the washer and dryer with the latest models from Whirlpool. OMG I love my new washer. I have a video showing them. :)
8 years later and I'm here to thank you next lol Different repair but I needed to remove the panel and yours is the only video that fully shows how to do it. Thanks!
This video was a lifesaver. Load of wet clothes and a bad door switch. And, like you said, all the other online videos were about other models. Thank you SO much!! :-)
Thank you very much for the video. I have an identical dryer with the same problem of not knowing how to open the machine. I needed to replace a door switch. Thank you so much, again.
This video saved my sanity. Our dryer was a GGQ9800PW1 model Ultimate Care II and looked almost exactly what Michelle was displaying. It was purchased from Best Buy in 2005 and has been trouble free since we bought it until now where we had a very loose baffle. I had looked at an online U-tube earlier that showed baffle replacement with a different and later Whirlpool design in which the door and front components had to be removed before the dryer top to get drum access. It was a chore I was not looking forward to attempting. Michelle's instructions were point on and simple to follow. 20 minutes after I started all baffles had been tightened and it was back together. I had found a replacement screw to replace the one lost (and probably in the bottom, but I ain't tearing it apart to go there). No muss or fuss and no expensive hundred dollars plus service call.
I am so happy it helped you out. When I made this video, we couldn't find anything on how to get it open so I decided it might help others and it has become one of my most watched videos. I hope you get many more years out of your drier!
Thank you so much for the video! Couldn't find anything on this dryer to remove top. Done - door switch replaced and dryer is working again. Thank you again, so much!!
Thanks for posting this model. My wife stopped before I tried to open the top cover to replace the door switch. If not for this instructions I would have broken something anyhow new amazon $6.50 door switch was replaced in about 30 minutes. Thank you.
Thank you for making this video. I needed to replace the door switch and all the other videos I found first had the lint screen on top. Then finally I found your video and it was a great help getting the top off! Thanks again!
This is the only video out there for this model...it saved me at least $100 by not having to pay for a service call to change the door switch. But I found that there is a small sheet metal screw at the rear that will prevent the top from sliding forward. You need to remove it before removing the two long screws that hold down the top console. Thanks again for the video.
My semi-handyman (brother) HATES to NEED directions. Like every one else, finding the way to remove the top was a not easy... Until I put in the word GOLD. Once again, Big Sister found the answer. Thank you for the great help is saving him from utter frustration and throwing out a perfectly good, free dryer. It's now running and drying clothes after having been stored in a shed for years. And I don't have to drag my wet laundry to the community dryers. I swear those wet towels weigh as much as my 8 year old granddaughter. And they can't walk themselves over there.
Thank you so much for posting this video. We have the same exact dryer and we needed to change the door switch. Your video helped us access it. The repair service wanted $200 to come fix it. We bought the part on line for $5.97 and fixed it ourselves. Thank you again.
Thanks for the video. Suggestion: Not sure of the details for the bar you placed under the lid, but here is a suggestion as I understand the fix for the top of the dryer. Instead of welding, glue the bar to the underside. Use a good epoxy such as JB Weld. Clean the metal surfaces for both the lid and the bar. Apply the glue as directed and it will add strength. As an added advantage, camber the bar. Camber means to put a slight bend upward in the bar. You can either muscle to bend it gently and evenly over the length of the bar, or.. Camber in steel beams is achieved by heating the bottom side to bend upward. Heat the metal to dull cherry red, then immediately cool with a mist of water. The cooling will contract the steel on the heated side causing it to bend as it becomes shorter (on the heated side), than its original length. This bending is called camber, it is prestressed. Now it will hold the top surface up off of the drum, even with a load on it (until the load becomes excessive).
Useful tip. The screws in the back of the control panel don’t use regular Phillips screwdriver. You have to use Pozidrive screwdriver or you’ll strip the screw. You can tell by the special markings on the head that it’s pozidrive. You can google what the those look like to verify but yes, you might get lucky and not strip it but now you know what to use. Thumbs up please.
You’re awesome! Thank you! My husband and I are in process trying to figure out why ours won’t start- the safety switch tab broke off at the bend but when you hold it down the timer still runs (also checked continuity, is good on safety switch and start button). But taping it down and closing the door won’t run the dryer. Hoping the fuse somehow blew. Wish us luck!
yeah I never had that kind of problem. Maybe a loose wire somewhere. I finally gave up on this dryer 3 years ago after changing several parts and it continuing to not work proper. Hopefully you get yours figured out.
@@michellesfrugallivin door switch plus fuse replacement, $40 fix after buying parts locally (would have been $11 on Amazon). Unless it’s a crazy coincidence, the fuse shouldn’t have failed with the door switch but I’m guessing I blew the fuse when I was experimenting with taping down what was left of the tab (switch itself was good) and pushing the start button with the door open.
@@paulamcdonald5446 I doubt you’ll respond to this but how did you get to the thermal fuse in this model? Is it accessed from the front? The model I have appears to be sealed with rivets in the back.
I’m sure it’s been a workhorse. No trouble out of either if I don’t count the fact the washer bleach reservoir leaks all over the floor if you use it. 😲. Maybe next project to research.
I got some hose that would fit down in there and duct taped it to vacuum hose. Since this video I bought a kit that is made to be used with a vacuum cleaner.
@@michellesfrugallivin Thanks. With your instructions on how to remove that bottom front panel, combined with a different video showing how to remove the lint duct cover, I was able to remove a mountain of lint from the internals. Now that the machine and laundry room ducting is clean I need to clear out the lint exhaust path from the house exterior vent backwards. A hose attached to a vacuum sounds like a good idea. Do they sell the one you bought on Amazon? Thank you for making the video! I definitely won't be placing anything heavy on top of the dryer!
Glad the video helped. When we went to take it apart there were no videos showing how so I decided to do one. You can probably find it online. I got the kit at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Thanks for putting this up! Very helpful. Quick question for you: About how long does it take for you to dry a load of either jeans (say 4 or 5 pair) or towels with yours? Mine consistently takes much longer than an hour. I'm going to open mine up and do a good cleaning on the bottom. I'm going to try and run it without the vent (it's in the garage) to see if it gets hotter that way.
+michellesfrugallivin Mine was just full of lint (12 years worth). I ran a load (venting straight into the garage) after vacuuming it out and had no problems. Hoping it will continue to work well once I hook the vent connector up. Amazing what a difference that clean-up makes!
I have a fridgidaire or some crap dryer that came with my house. The knob was loose so I went to move it and the thing under the knob..like the actual piece that turns when you turn the knob...fell inside!! I got the top cover off but I can't figure out how to remove the metallic cover over it. Might need to call a ...technician?
iamraz All I know is it took us 20 minutes of looking to find these screws. Start looking where you would never look. And really we had to decide that the top slid off first then found the screws.
I;ve been using one of these same models for years, the only problem was when the thermostat died a few years ago; I replaced it myself easily. Yesterday I did a load, checked it & it wasn't quite dry (but the heat did go on), but when I tried to add more minutes, nothing when I pushed the On button. No buttons did anything. Sudden death? Any idea what coulda caused this?
I am not an expert on these things but since you opened it yourself before, it might be worth you opening it and seeing if any of the wires came loose. Or you might see a wire burned or something like that. I think there is a thing that all the buttons plug into that can go bad.
@@michellesfrugallivin Thank you so much for replying! We opened it up & checked all around with a voltmeter, couldn't find a problem, til I noticed that the belt was cattycorner. I went to move it & it'd snapped. Gonna replace that, see what happens. Thanks again!
Hi, I have this exact same dryer and have a question I was hoping you could answer. When using the sensor dry function (right side of the dial) will this stop once everything is dry? I've tried using this function and the dryer just seems to run and run
+Ben Koenig Good question because I was wondering about that too. Here is what I think but don't know if I am just imagining this or it is how it works. I kind of tested it by watching it. It doesn't just stop running. I think the dial speeds up so that it won't actually run as long but it will always still run in that grey area on the dial which I believe is a cool down faze of the drying. I have opened the drier after it has been running 20 minutes and it will be really hot inside. But when ever I open it when it is in the grey area on the dial it is always just warm and not hot. I think it does that so you have time to get the clothes out of the drier before they cool completely and get wrinkled. But like I said I think the dial speeds up or jumps to that grey cool down area when clothes are dry. I do find that I need to clean down in the lint trap really good about once a year which makes it take less time to dry. And cleaning the lint from the outside vent opening makes a difference in dry time too.
the ticking is probably the timer. when you turn the knob it starts a timer which normally you can't hear because the drum is spinning and the fan is blowing. As for what is making it not go you probably would have to open it up to look for broken wires or the belt or maybe a sensor burned up.
This video is the only one for this specific model which was a lifesaver! Thanks a ton for the great video! I have a question about a part on the heating element housing unit that attaches next to the vent pipe. I’m missing a piece that attaches The round housing piece to the back pipe? Thanks in advance for any and all help! Warm Regards, Elizabeth Mickey
Thanks for the video. Do you happen to know how to get the bottom panel off to clean the lint area? I see there are two clips at the very bottom, but i'm not sure how to remove them. Thanks for any guidance.
I need to replace the door switch - actually the dryer is working with the switch broken, just won't turn on the interior light or stop the drum when the door is open. Didn't have any luck on phone with whirlpool in securing part number, so will be looking at that diagram! Thank you for posting, you're right, no other post shows the cover removal for an interior mount lint tray.
I got a Whirlpool LGQ8611LW1 gas dryer and this is the only video that was any help. Much appreciated.
Love my Whirlpool Ultimate Care II dryer, now 17 years old! I was going crazy trying to figure out the front clip & your detailed look gave me the exact thing to do. Thank you! Still cleaning it but had to compliment you & your hubs.
+Lagunaticmom glad it helped you. I actually went back and watched it when I needed to open it again. I actually just replaced the washer and dryer with the latest models from Whirlpool. OMG I love my new washer. I have a video showing them. :)
Your video saved me from having to take screws out until the top fell off. You and your S.O. are ingenious and resourceful. Thank you very much!
8 years later and I'm here to thank you next lol Different repair but I needed to remove the panel and yours is the only video that fully shows how to do it. Thanks!
glad it helped. :)
This video was a lifesaver. Load of wet clothes and a bad door switch. And, like you said, all the other online videos were about other models. Thank you SO much!! :-)
+Thom Rayne I am glad it helped. :)
My temperature knob broke off, and it's stuck on low heat. Any advise on how to turn temp up without knob ?
Oh gosh....THANK YOU! I was going crazy watching all the other videos...and STILL not being able to get the gosh darn top off of my dryer!
Lynn Coughlin Glad it could help. It was like a puzzle box trying to figure out how to open that thing.
Thank you very much for the video. I have an identical dryer with the same problem of not knowing how to open the machine. I needed to replace a door switch. Thank you so much, again.
Just did that....this is the only video out there for this model. THANK YOU for posting.
This video saved my sanity. Our dryer was a GGQ9800PW1 model Ultimate Care II and looked almost exactly what Michelle was displaying. It was purchased from Best Buy in 2005 and has been trouble free since we bought it until now where we had a very loose baffle. I had looked at an online U-tube earlier that showed baffle replacement with a different and later Whirlpool design in which the door and front components had to be removed before the dryer top to get drum access. It was a chore I was not looking forward to attempting. Michelle's instructions were point on and simple to follow. 20 minutes after I started all baffles had been tightened and it was back together. I had found a replacement screw to replace the one lost (and probably in the bottom, but I ain't tearing it apart to go there). No muss or fuss and no expensive hundred dollars plus service call.
I am so happy it helped you out. When I made this video, we couldn't find anything on how to get it open so I decided it might help others and it has become one of my most watched videos. I hope you get many more years out of your drier!
Just another grateful viewer chiming in. Thank you for posting this! 😊
thanks
This was so helpful only video that I could find with my dryer. Trying to replace heating element
thanks for watching :)
Thank you so much for the video! Couldn't find anything on this dryer to remove top. Done - door switch replaced and dryer is working again. Thank you again, so much!!
Thanks for posting this model. My wife stopped before I tried to open the top cover to replace the door switch. If not for this instructions I would have broken something anyhow new amazon $6.50 door switch was replaced in about 30 minutes. Thank you.
great!
Guys, thank you. I need to change my Whirlpool Gold Dryer switch and could not find how to remove the top to change the dryer switch. Thanks!
Thank you for making this video. I needed to replace the door switch and all the other videos I found first had the lint screen on top. Then finally I found your video and it was a great help getting the top off! Thanks again!
Glad I could help.
Thanks for video. It was great help. Also, I will no longer store heavy items on top of dryer🙂
+David BinVirginia It was one of those life lessons. :)
This is the only video out there for this model...it saved me at least $100 by not having to pay for a service call to change the door switch. But I found that there is a small sheet metal screw at the rear that will prevent the top from sliding forward. You need to remove it before removing the two long screws that hold down the top console. Thanks again for the video.
Glad it helped you. You must have the deluxe model with the extra screw. 😁
@@michellesfrugallivin thanks again. I have written your channel info on the user guides for future reference.
Thank you for posting this video. Much appreciated learning how to remove the top.
I thought all dryers had spring clips in front, until you find out yours doesn't. Thanks for the video.
Thank you! You are right, not so much video relating to this model....THANKS!❤❤❤
My semi-handyman (brother) HATES to NEED directions.
Like every one else, finding the way to remove the top was a not easy... Until I put in the word GOLD.
Once again, Big Sister found the answer.
Thank you for the great help is saving him from utter frustration and throwing out a perfectly good, free dryer. It's now running and drying clothes after having been stored in a shed for years.
And I don't have to drag my wet laundry to the community dryers. I swear those wet towels weigh as much as my 8 year old granddaughter. And they can't walk themselves over there.
+Cheralynne Kastner that is great! Thanks for sharing your story. ☺
Thank you for this video. I would not have figured out on my own!
thanks for watching
Thank you so much for posting this video. We have the same exact dryer and we needed to change the door switch. Your video helped us access it. The repair service wanted $200 to come fix it. We bought the part on line for $5.97 and fixed it ourselves. Thank you again.
Love hearing stories like that.
Thanks for the video.
Suggestion: Not sure of the details for the bar you placed under the lid, but here is a suggestion as I understand the fix for the top of the dryer.
Instead of welding, glue the bar to the underside. Use a good epoxy such as JB Weld. Clean the metal surfaces for both the lid and the bar. Apply the glue as directed and it will add strength.
As an added advantage, camber the bar. Camber means to put a slight bend upward in the bar. You can either muscle to bend it gently and evenly over the length of the bar, or.. Camber in steel beams is achieved by heating the bottom side to bend upward. Heat the metal to dull cherry red, then immediately cool with a mist of water. The cooling will contract the steel on the heated side causing it to bend as it becomes shorter (on the heated side), than its original length. This bending is called camber, it is prestressed. Now it will hold the top surface up off of the drum, even with a load on it (until the load becomes excessive).
I think that would work too. My man is a welder by trade so anything he can strike a rod on he does. :)
@@michellesfrugallivin Michelles, Yes, I get that. My suggestion is to save the paint. Have a great day.
Thank you for the video. We could not figure out how to get the front panel off.
Super helpful for dummies like me. Thank you very much for making and publishing this.
Useful tip. The screws in the back of the control panel don’t use regular Phillips screwdriver. You have to use Pozidrive screwdriver or you’ll strip the screw. You can tell by the special markings on the head that it’s pozidrive. You can google what the those look like to verify but yes, you might get lucky and not strip it but now you know what to use. Thumbs up please.
I haven't heard of that. We took those screws out many times and didn't have a problem.
thanks so much, couldn't find any instructions online other than yours! Helped me so I could replace the door switch myself!!!
Great. We have been working on someone else's dryer today.
Thank you for this video, I have this dryer and have been searching for two days for a good video on how to open the cabinet.
+JWest2k They hid it very nicely.
Interesting vid...gonna have to find another spot to layout the heavy hauls :) glad you got it all fixed.
The noise has been bothering me for months and I had a day off work last week so we got a chance to take it apart.
You’re awesome! Thank you! My husband and I are in process trying to figure out why ours won’t start- the safety switch tab broke off at the bend but when you hold it down the timer still runs (also checked continuity, is good on safety switch and start button). But taping it down and closing the door won’t run the dryer. Hoping the fuse somehow blew. Wish us luck!
yeah I never had that kind of problem. Maybe a loose wire somewhere. I finally gave up on this dryer 3 years ago after changing several parts and it continuing to not work proper. Hopefully you get yours figured out.
@@michellesfrugallivin door switch plus fuse replacement, $40 fix after buying parts locally (would have been $11 on Amazon). Unless it’s a crazy coincidence, the fuse shouldn’t have failed with the door switch but I’m guessing I blew the fuse when I was experimenting with taping down what was left of the tab (switch itself was good) and pushing the start button with the door open.
@@paulamcdonald5446 I doubt you’ll respond to this but how did you get to the thermal fuse in this model?
Is it accessed from the front? The model I have appears to be sealed with rivets in the back.
@@BrandonWestfall I’m trying to remember but the sheet metal should slide off once you take the top off.
@@paulamcdonald5446 I actually figured it out. The thermal fuse was in the front on this particular model.
Thanks for responding.
Thank you for posting this...its a big help!
Thanks, old video, but I have the exact same washer / dryer, well over 10 years old, and had a broken door switch and just needed to get the top off!
Glad it helped. There must be a lot of these still out there because this is one of my most popular videos
I’m sure it’s been a workhorse. No trouble out of either if I don’t count the fact the washer bleach reservoir leaks all over the floor if you use it. 😲. Maybe next project to research.
Nice job on the repair work!
Thank you. I shouldn't have ever let this happen.
Thank you
Thanks! Big help!
very helpful!
Nice job, but I really would have liked to have seen your method for cleaning out the front lint duct on the front of the unit.
I got some hose that would fit down in there and duct taped it to vacuum hose. Since this video I bought a kit that is made to be used with a vacuum cleaner.
@@michellesfrugallivin Thanks. With your instructions on how to remove that bottom front panel, combined with a different video showing how to remove the lint duct cover, I was able to remove a mountain of lint from the internals. Now that the machine and laundry room ducting is clean I need to clear out the lint exhaust path from the house exterior vent backwards. A hose attached to a vacuum sounds like a good idea. Do they sell the one you bought on Amazon? Thank you for making the video! I definitely won't be placing anything heavy on top of the dryer!
Glad the video helped. When we went to take it apart there were no videos showing how so I decided to do one. You can probably find it online. I got the kit at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Thank you for the video.!!
How do you replace the Thermal Fuse on this model? The back doesn't even come off!
you do everything from the front
Thank you so much God bless you
I have the same dyer. How do you remove the back panel to check the thermal fuse?
unfortunately I never tried to take the back off and I don't have that dryer any longer.
Thanks for putting this up! Very helpful. Quick question for you: About how long does it take for you to dry a load of either jeans (say 4 or 5 pair) or towels with yours? Mine consistently takes much longer than an hour. I'm going to open mine up and do a good cleaning on the bottom. I'm going to try and run it without the vent (it's in the garage) to see if it gets hotter that way.
+chemprofmatt It is all about the lint. Mine takes longer when the vent outside the house get clogged. Jeans will dry on the 70 min setting.
+michellesfrugallivin Mine was just full of lint (12 years worth). I ran a load (venting straight into the garage) after vacuuming it out and had no problems. Hoping it will continue to work well once I hook the vent connector up. Amazing what a difference that clean-up makes!
+chemprofmatt It really is.
Ah that’s how. Thanks!
THANKS SO MUCH!
I have a fridgidaire or some crap dryer that came with my house. The knob was loose so I went to move it and the thing under the knob..like the actual piece that turns when you turn the knob...fell inside!! I got the top cover off but I can't figure out how to remove the metallic cover over it. Might need to call a ...technician?
iamraz All I know is it took us 20 minutes of looking to find these screws. Start looking where you would never look. And really we had to decide that the top slid off first then found the screws.
I;ve been using one of these same models for years, the only problem was when the thermostat died a few years ago; I replaced it myself easily. Yesterday I did a load, checked it & it wasn't quite dry (but the heat did go on), but when I tried to add more minutes, nothing when I pushed the On button. No buttons did anything. Sudden death? Any idea what coulda caused this?
I am not an expert on these things but since you opened it yourself before, it might be worth you opening it and seeing if any of the wires came loose. Or you might see a wire burned or something like that. I think there is a thing that all the buttons plug into that can go bad.
@@michellesfrugallivin Thank you so much for replying! We opened it up & checked all around with a voltmeter, couldn't find a problem, til I noticed that the belt was cattycorner. I went to move it & it'd snapped. Gonna replace that, see what happens. Thanks again!
@@kellyhoward6941 Hopefully that will fix it. good luck
Hi, I have this exact same dryer and have a question I was hoping you could answer. When using the sensor dry function (right side of the dial) will this stop once everything is dry? I've tried using this function and the dryer just seems to run and run
+Ben Koenig Good question because I was wondering about that too. Here is what I think but don't know if I am just imagining this or it is how it works. I kind of tested it by watching it. It doesn't just stop running. I think the dial speeds up so that it won't actually run as long but it will always still run in that grey area on the dial which I believe is a cool down faze of the drying. I have opened the drier after it has been running 20 minutes and it will be really hot inside. But when ever I open it when it is in the grey area on the dial it is always just warm and not hot. I think it does that so you have time to get the clothes out of the drier before they cool completely and get wrinkled. But like I said I think the dial speeds up or jumps to that grey cool down area when clothes are dry. I do find that I need to clean down in the lint trap really good about once a year which makes it take less time to dry. And cleaning the lint from the outside vent opening makes a difference in dry time too.
Where is the fuse?
Have the same dryer today it doesnt work but it have like a ticking sound . Do you have idea what might be the problem?
the ticking is probably the timer. when you turn the knob it starts a timer which normally you can't hear because the drum is spinning and the fan is blowing. As for what is making it not go you probably would have to open it up to look for broken wires or the belt or maybe a sensor burned up.
@@michellesfrugallivin thank you so much
This video is the only one for this specific model which was a lifesaver! Thanks a ton for the great video!
I have a question about a part on the heating element housing unit that attaches next to the vent pipe. I’m missing a piece that attaches The round housing piece to the back pipe?
Thanks in advance for any and all help!
Warm Regards,
Elizabeth Mickey
**Also I can send pics if need be just not sure how to post in this forum setting**
I really don't know what to tell you. I don't have that dryer any longer.
Is there any problem with drying starched clothes in the dryer ?
I don't know. Never did that.
Thanks for the video. Do you happen to know how to get the bottom panel off to clean the lint area? I see there are two clips at the very bottom, but i'm not sure how to remove them. Thanks for any guidance.
+Keith Shaffer I don't think I took that off or if I did it must have just popped off.
Did I see a wiring diagram tucked under the control panel? 1.38 on the video...
It sure does look like that. I don't think we took that out and looked at it.
I need to replace the door switch - actually the dryer is working with the switch broken, just won't turn on the interior light or stop the drum when the door is open. Didn't have any luck on phone with whirlpool in securing part number, so will be looking at that diagram! Thank you for posting, you're right, no other post shows the cover removal for an interior mount lint tray.
+sandra sandrab good luck with that. The good news is there really aren't very many parts on this dryer.
Where is the heating element located on these models
it is the bottom right. you have to take the front off to access it
전기용가요 깨스용인가요
this one is electric
can u just tell me how to fucking turn it on