I followed this to the tee in the pissing rain on the way home. I was sick of second gear being so hard to get which I discovered was a previous owner dropping the bike, bending the gear selector lever into the bike and when lifted would collide with that adjustable rod that runs fore and aft. And this procedure gave me a nice springy clutch with every gear clacking into place with the utmost of ease. It feels like a new bike for it. A clutch is an important part of the machine that is rider and bike together. Why fuck around with a substandard set up. Just whip that cover off and hit it. Youll be glad you did.
I was just about to buy a new clutch release mechanism for my 2008 Vstrom 650 because it has play in it. I had assumed that the bearing wouldn't have any play. However, after watching your video the play appears to be normal. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
Very educational as the process should be about the same for most any make/model using a clutch cable. I don't have this bike but I still watched because your videos are always concise, accurate and fun to watch!
Great work Track848, I was able to adjust my clutch, you should do more maintenance vids, this was brilliant and left me with no nagging doubts or questions.
Thnx for the video. I had some issues with my clutch. With the help of your vid I managed to solve the issue. Ps I have a suzuki v strom 650 k7. And no experience in mechanics. It took me 1 hour. #happyclutching
***** Cool! -- Glad you solved it -- and that the video helped you along the way! Now you have to be careful: Working on these bikes can be just as addictive as riding them!
Tried the other method on youtube but was pants, tried this and after 15 minutes was like new ;-)))) Very happy as got a track day soon, Thank you for this A+++
Great video, thanks. I had to change my 2007 SV650S clutch cable, I was following your directions but yesterday when I was riding I couldn't up shift when above about 4000 RPM. I probably missed something. Your help will be appreciated.
Hi Sharon... that's not good! I recommend taking a look at the link in the description. There are additional steps that are covered there. Please come back and let us know what the problem and solution turned out to be... Good luck!
my bike is very hard to change gears on, takes fair pressure on the lever to change up and down at times, very clunky, just changed the engine oil, chain slack is set ok, going to try this later, I'll let you know if it helps, thanks for posting.subbed.
choppercon xxx Speeding? Maybe a little, but I think it was due to the 'down hill' ramp to the interstate! There's definitely a lot more pull now that the clutch is adjusted properly. I'm going to include a clutch check/adjustment during all future maintenance intervals.
+Track848 This is excellent. I do believe I was doing it wrong all this time and that's why my clutch was slipping. Thank you! Now I just need a new pushrod and chain. (Chain broke :()
what a great vid so helpfull thought id needed new clutch plates after i followed this the bike is sweet cheers dude keep em coming ps what is the big hex in the center of the case for ?
Hi Heath--sorry about that delay, I have been traveling... and yes, I believe the procedure should be the same for the Gladius. Did you tackle it yet? I'd be curious to hear if there were any differences.
@@Track848 unfortunately it was different on mine like a long vertical pin with a cam at the bottom which as far as I can tell can’t be adjusted but I did find a return spring unclipped and greased the push rod and dropped the oil to 3/4 as it was just over max and it seems to have worked, thanks for your great UA-cam information happy riding regards Heath
Hi, I removed the sprocket cover to clean the area and I thought I should do this clutch adjustment because the clutch lever adjustment was pretty much at maximum ... but now the clutch would not disengage..., All gears shift easily but pulling the clutch lever does nothing... I followed every step you described. Thanks in advance!
@@MRR7 It would be hard to diagnose over a youtube chat.. but do you know when the last time the clutch cable was renewed? If you're confident that you completed the adjustment correctly, the cable could potentially be a problem. If not, there is a link in the description to one of the SV forums that includes additional steps that you might find helpful.
@@Track848 thank you sir, i tried more things to eventually find out that the bike was on the stander... That was the problem... Rear end lifted.. I ashamed
I did adjust mine on my Suzuki V-Strom 650, and now it seems like the bike doesn't have torque or power on higher gears. I'm sure I messed up on my adjustment, what did it do wrong?! Thanks in advance.
Hi ! Thank you for that short an precise video ! Can you please tell me what size of box end wrench you need for the job ? I dont have these tools and dont want a set but only this one. Thans again !
Fantastic job thanks, Only thing that confuses me , you said you should have at least 15 mm of play in the lever ? Not sure if I heard wrong. I thought it suppose to be 2 to 3 mm ? I am new to motorcycles and that is what I was told ..
Hi Jogo, thanks for viewing and for the compliment. You were told wrong, here's what the Owner's Manual states: "At each maintenance interval, adjust the clutch cable play adjuster. The cable play should be 10 - 15mm (0.4 - 0.6 in) as measured at the clutch lever end before the clutch begins to disengage." I believe you are confusing clutch play with the throttle cable play, which is stated in the manual as "2.0 - 4.0mm (0.08 - 0.16 in)."
Track848 Hello and thanks for the response , I found the manual for the bike and it stated 2 to 3mm play in the clutch lever. I guess is different for different bikes...I wonder if can attach a photo of the page..I will try. Thanks again.
No, you cannot attach a photo here, but I created a thread over at the svrider forum a couple of years back when I created this video.... you can sign up as a member there and upload the pic if you want... www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303802
Hi I believe I have clutch slip. In higher rpms and high speed, if I give full throttle it feels as if I have the clutch partially pulled in, bike revs up but doesnt pull as much as it should, hopefully this sorts it.
That's exactly what mine was doing... and this adjustment fixed it! Here's a link to part 1 where I discovered that I had the problem. Does yours sound like this? ua-cam.com/video/RlhBfveNdCg/v-deo.html
@@Track848 wow yes exactly that. I'm just waiting on a new clutch actuator as mine also had ball bearings missing, its arrive today so will let you know!
I noticed my clutch slipping on a spirited ride in the mountains yesterday, so I'll be doing this adjustment this week. My only question is - how do you know when the pushrod adjustment screw is no longer in contact with the pushrod when you're loosening it? Will I be able to feel it through the screwdriver, or what?
Blueshift You should be able to feel it through the screwdriver; just turn it out all of the way without removing it from the mechanism. A few turns should do it. I think the more important question, is: How do you know when the screw is in contact with the pushrod when you're putting it back together? And my answer to this is, use the feeling from the screwdriver, BUT primarily watch the mechanism. As soon as the mechanism plate with the spring and cable attached starts to move (I'm talking 100ths of an inch here), stop and back the screw out a 1/4 of a turn. If you go back and watch me do it in this video at around 1:39, you'll notice that I go back and forth a few times with the screwdriver to visually confirm that the plate was moving. Good luck, and get ready for the added/returned power to rear wheel! Come back and let us know how it goes.
Didn't have much of an issue with the pushrod adjustment part, just with setting the clutch slack afterwards. No matter how I adjusted the main clutch cable adjuster by the engine, the lever was completely loose (with its adjuster all the way in). In the end I just set the main adjuster to where it was originally and backed out the lever adjuster till the correct slack. Not sure if that's normal, but the transmission didn't grenade on a test ride and shifting felt smoother. Didn't get a chance to do the 7k+ WOT test, but I never had that problem originally - it would instead slip when getting back on the throttle immediately after a shift. Thanks for your help!
I did everything in the 2 videos, and the bike rode beautifully without any slipping even in high revs. About 30 mins later the slipping came back...Any ideas?
+ionicbreeze There's a link in the description of this video that might help you. I describe only 2 of 6 possible solutions that are mentioned in 'AndyAuger's Clutch Mantra,' from svrider.com; The other ones are: 3. Change the oil 4. Check the oil level 5. Clean, lubricate and adjust the external linkage, and 6. Look at the relative position of the "lever arms' at the foot lever and the transmission. They should be as close to parallel as possible. Click on the link in the description and you can see more details. If none of these resolve your situation there could be a problem with the actual clutch (i.e. worn out plates, etc,), or something with the internal mechanism. Good luck!
Aleksander Dahl In this video I describe only 2 of 6 possible solutions that are mentioned in 'AndyAuger's Clutch Mantra,' from svrider.com; The other ones are: 3. Change the oil 4. Check the oil level 5. Clean, lubricate and adjust the external linkage, and 6. Look at the relative position of the "lever arms' at the foot lever and the transmission. They should be as close to parallel as possible. Click on the link in the description to AndyAuger's 'Clutch Mantra.' It describes all of these in greater detail. If none of these resolve your situation there could be a problem with the actual clutch (i.e. worn out plates, etc,), or something with the internal mechanism. Good luck!
I just cant understand how to play with the main adjuster screw near the engine...more thread under the locknut means cable more tight? In this example the is virtually no thread under the bottem locknut as in the case of my bike. Even like this, i have to adjust the lever screw almost to the maximum to have the right slack
Hi there farmoboy; What make/model and year is your motorcycle? If it is more than a few years old have you ever renewed the clutch cable? If so and you do not believe this could be a contributing factor, check out the svrider forum link in the description, it was the inspiration for this video and might provide you with more options.
@@Track848 sv650 2005 with 50000km/ more so 33000miles. I think the previous owner never changed the cable. For now the clutch works perfectly and the slack is ideal for my hand. No false neutrals, easy to find neutral and power all over the rev range. Maybe next service i changr the cable just for peace of mind. Thanks
@@Track848i think that after 3 years and a new cable i found the problem. The little spring that is connected to the actuator arm is old and deformed. So it doesnt pull the arm strongly enough and therefore the cable doesnt get enough tension. I ordered a new spring and will test if it solved the problem because i have no thread left of the main adjustet and the gear adjuster is almost all out!
I hope I get an answer on here still despite an old video... Would this cure an SV that, once the engine is hot, will be difficult to near impossible to get out of 1st gear whilst at a standstill? I did try earlier to loosen the rod a little but I was worried it was 'too' loose. What are the issues with loosening it up too much? I have also tried draining oil and changing the oil, to no success. P.S. Great, clear video, thank you for posting.
Stevo mine had the same issue, had to “kick” the bike into second gear at times. Once I straightened out the rod that connects the peg to the clutch set up the bike shifted easily. Hope that helps
J Gonza I’ve no joy with this I’m afraid that it might be a deeper lying problem with the clutch plates or springs. I’ll try fitting a new clutch cable as mine is a bit worn but I fear it’ll have to go to a garage.
very helpful video, I see in this video, you are entering the freeway at 77 in Independence, Ohio, are from that area?....I'm from Valley View. I have a 2001 SV650, if I have any issues would it be ok to call on you for advise?...Thanks, Rich
Need help dont know if the position of that return mechanism should ve the same as yours mine feel apart put it back together and now clutch wont engage
***** i do not know if mine is properly adjusted after replacing sprocket and clutch cable my problem started while my svs rear wheel is in the air it will spin but once im on the ground it does not move at all i did have my clutch replaced a month ago so clutch and oil is good
Hey track, i have a 2004 sv650 and the bike keeps getting stuck in 1st gear and when i go in 1st from neutral the bike either stalls or starts rolling forward. Please help, thanks!
This adjustment positions the release mechanism and the clutch lever for optimal functionality. Since both are outside of the engine it can be warm or cold, it won't make a difference. Good luck!
i have 2004 sv1000s and my bike constanly jerked when im accelerating in 1 and 2,sometimes in 3 but only at 11500 rpm. i took it in to the local suzuki dealer and they said it was the clutch. so they had to put in a new clutch kit for me because the clutch's teeth was weared(previous owner did allot of burntouts etc). it got allot worse when the new kit was in,but when i pull in the clutch a little bit the jerking isnt so harsh. i heard it could be the clutch basket,but im not a motorcycle mechanic so im not so clued up,i just know a thing or two. is there any way that you could know whats wrong?
+speedx360SA Hey speed, there's a link in the description of this video that might help you. I describe only 2 of 6 possible solutions that are mentioned in 'AndyAuger's Clutch Mantra,' from svrider.com; The other ones are: 3. Change the oil 4. Check the oil level 5. Clean, lubricate and adjust the external linkage, and 6. Look at the relative position of the "lever arms' at the foot lever and the transmission. They should be as close to parallel as possible. Click on the link in the description and you can see more details. If none of these resolve your situation there could be a problem with the actual clutch (i.e. worn out plates, etc,), or something with the internal mechanism. Good luck!
+Track848 thanks,ill check it ou,i already have new oil,a new clutch kit and plates and as far as i know the springs in the clutch basket is replaced but it still feels as if the clutch disengages when it gets torque on it
Madeleine Gillett isn't it supposed to be one inch, if so mines even lower then that, but I bought new levers and now it just turns a little right when I put it in gear then stops turning
Hi Juan, it's probably too hard to diagnose an oil leak over this platform. Leaked oil in this area of the bike could be from a number of sources, including: Inspection cover o-ring, alternator cover/case seal or the rubber grommet where the alternator wires come out of the cover. Other potential items to check: Clutch pushrod seal, shift shaft seal or the seal behind the front sprocket. Start by cleaning the area really well and if you cannot pinpoint one of these items as the problem, I recommend researching more over at one of the SV forums or taking the bike to a shop. Good luck!
@@Track848 I have a question if this rubber gasket that goes on the transmission rod is balinging at me, it is recommended that I only change the damaged parts or check something else
@@jbarojas7 If you narrowed the problem down to that seal alone, you can replace it only unless you suspect some of the other parts need replacing too. Is that the seal that's leaking?
How is your camera mounted and how did you get the windshield so clear? I have a gopro clone I want to mount on my bike in a similar position and I was worried about exactly how to mount it and whether the windshield would be too opaque but in your videos it's great!
In this video I am using a gopro suction cup, which is elevated a few inches up from the tank. When I use the suction cup I ALWAYs tether it to the bike using a piece of cotton string (prevents scratching the tank). I must've just washed the bike, didn't really notice how clear the windshield is until you mentioned it...
I followed this to the tee in the pissing rain on the way home. I was sick of second gear being so hard to get which I discovered was a previous owner dropping the bike, bending the gear selector lever into the bike and when lifted would collide with that adjustable rod that runs fore and aft. And this procedure gave me a nice springy clutch with every gear clacking into place with the utmost of ease. It feels like a new bike for it. A clutch is an important part of the machine that is rider and bike together. Why fuck around with a substandard set up. Just whip that cover off and hit it. Youll be glad you did.
+utuberine Couldn't have said it better myself, +utuberine!
It's really helpful to have the sizes of the wrenches and tools being used mentioned in the video. Thanks for posting.
You're Welcome!
That is an exceptionally good and detailed video- enjoyed it and learnt from it. Thank you!
+Tamsen Cooper Your quite welcome! Thanks for viewing.
pro trick : watch movies on Flixzone. I've been using it for watching lots of of movies during the lockdown.
@Angelo Griffin definitely, I've been using flixzone} for years myself :)
Great explanation on how to adjust everything! Worked perfect for me.
Excellent, that's great to hear!
You saved my life, thank you sir! Best video on cutch adjustment.
My pleasure! Thank you!!! 🏍
Nice, clear and accurate explanation.
Thanks!
@@Track848 Thanks man, had this issue with my SV650. your video really helped!
I just bought an SV650 with this same issue, glad to know it’s an easy fix!
You're gonna love the SV--it's a fun motorcycle on and off the track!
I was just about to buy a new clutch release mechanism for my 2008 Vstrom 650 because it has play in it. I had assumed that the bearing wouldn't have any play. However, after watching your video the play appears to be normal. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
GREAT!!!
Excellent video. Very clear and worked a treat. Thanks.
+Participant Thank you; glad it worked for you...
Very educational as the process should be about the same for most any make/model using a clutch cable. I don't have this bike but I still watched because your videos are always concise, accurate and fun to watch!
Great work Track848, I was able to adjust my clutch, you should do more maintenance vids, this was brilliant and left me with no nagging doubts or questions.
Roger Myers Thanks Roger, glad you found this useful! I have quite a few maintenance related videos in 'the pipeline,' stay tuned for more!
Thanks for the video. I'm having clutch engagement issue. Will try this over the weekend.
MidnightSunVFR You're Welcome! Come back and let us know if this resolves your issue...
thanks for the upload, this video saved me some trouble on my 04 sv650
Good to hear that it saved you some trouble! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the vid. Clear, to the point, and it helped with my issue. Great job!
clear video to follow , looks like same setup on the DL650 I need to adjust clutch cable on.
Thnx for the video. I had some issues with my clutch. With the help of your vid I managed to solve the issue. Ps I have a suzuki v strom 650 k7. And no experience in mechanics. It took me 1 hour. #happyclutching
***** Cool! -- Glad you solved it -- and that the video helped you along the way! Now you have to be careful: Working on these bikes can be just as addictive as riding them!
What an excellent video! Great quality. Hoping for more!
Tried the other method on youtube but was pants, tried this and after 15 minutes was like new ;-)))) Very happy as got a track day soon,
Thank you for this A+++
Great, that's good to hear! Have fun at the track!!!
Great video
Thank you!
Very good video thank you for sharing
My pleasure!
thank you
thank you appreciate the video ,, it helped me to fix my clutch , which it was brand new ,,,
+angelito palencia excellent!
Good video, helped me too ..thanks
You're welcome!
Thank you! I just got trolled by some dickhead in Australia for asking a clutch question. Your info was a godsend. Thanks again.
+OSF BG You're Welcome!
Subbed, best clutch adjustment video I've ever seen
Excellent, thanks Billy!
Give me your mailbox and I send you a case of beer! Excellent video!
Thanks MrP!
Thank you!
You're welcome, Ethan!
Nice informative video sir.
Tnx
Thank you, Toby!
You're a legend man fixed my K6! Thanks so much :)
You're welcome! Glad it helped...
Dear friend thanks, i almost buy a new clutch discs.
De nada, Daniel, I'm glad it saved you some money!
Great video, thanks. I had to change my 2007 SV650S clutch cable, I was following your directions but yesterday when I was riding I couldn't up shift when above about 4000 RPM. I probably missed something. Your help will be appreciated.
Hi Sharon... that's not good! I recommend taking a look at the link in the description. There are additional steps that are covered there. Please come back and let us know what the problem and solution turned out to be... Good luck!
my bike is very hard to change gears on, takes fair pressure on the lever to change up and down at times, very clunky, just changed the engine oil, chain slack is set ok, going to try this later, I'll let you know if it helps, thanks for posting.subbed.
any feedback?
you should also put vstrom in the description for people that are searching. Same motor, this would have saved me much headache.
Chris B. Done. Thanks for pointing this out!
Subbed for this one, thanks brother!
You're welcome, Brother!
worked perfectly first time was straight on the back wheel 👌🏼🏍💨
Excellent!
Nice thanks a lot
Thank you fot the tutorial.👍
You're Welcome, George!
Excellent, thanks man!
You're welcome, Saha!
Very cool channel Gunny! I sub!
choppercon xxx Speeding? Maybe a little, but I think it was due to the 'down hill' ramp to the interstate! There's definitely a lot more pull now that the clutch is adjusted properly. I'm going to include a clutch check/adjustment during all future maintenance intervals.
+Track848 This is excellent. I do believe I was doing it wrong all this time and that's why my clutch was slipping. Thank you! Now I just need a new pushrod and chain. (Chain broke :()
+Daniel Fleury (Myrogue) Glad you found it helpful! Good luck with the new chain and pushrod.
what a great vid so helpfull thought id needed new clutch plates after i followed this the bike is sweet cheers dude keep em coming ps what is the big hex in the center of the case for ?
+quimjuicemonkey Good to hear this is all that was needed! The big hex in the center of the case is the crankshaft end cap...
Saw another one that said to start by loosening at handle not by clutch. Now I'm confused.
Thanks
You're Welcome!
Thanks for this Video, will it be almost the same procedure for my 2009 sfv650 gladius regard Heath
Hi Heath--sorry about that delay, I have been traveling... and yes, I believe the procedure should be the same for the Gladius. Did you tackle it yet? I'd be curious to hear if there were any differences.
@@Track848 unfortunately it was different on mine like a long vertical pin with a cam at the bottom which as far as I can tell can’t be adjusted but I did find a return spring unclipped and greased the push rod and dropped the oil to 3/4 as it was just over max and it seems to have worked, thanks for your great UA-cam information happy riding regards Heath
Hi,
I removed the sprocket cover to clean the area and I thought I should do this clutch adjustment because the clutch lever adjustment was pretty much at maximum ... but now the clutch would not disengage..., All gears shift easily but pulling the clutch lever does nothing... I followed every step you described.
Thanks in advance!
You're welcome!
@@Track848 hey, you didny answer to my problem, please help me
@@MRR7 It would be hard to diagnose over a youtube chat.. but do you know when the last time the clutch cable was renewed? If you're confident that you completed the adjustment correctly, the cable could potentially be a problem. If not, there is a link in the description to one of the SV forums that includes additional steps that you might find helpful.
@@Track848 thank you sir, i tried more things to eventually find out that the bike was on the stander... That was the problem... Rear end lifted.. I ashamed
I did adjust mine on my Suzuki V-Strom 650, and now it seems like the bike doesn't have torque or power on higher gears. I'm sure I messed up on my adjustment, what did it do wrong?! Thanks in advance.
Hi ! Thank you for that short an precise video ! Can you please tell me what size of box end wrench you need for the job ? I dont have these tools and dont want a set but only this one. Thans again !
Fantastic job thanks, Only thing that confuses me , you said you should have at least 15 mm of play in the lever ? Not sure if I heard wrong. I thought it suppose to be 2 to 3 mm ? I am new to motorcycles and that is what I was told ..
Hi Jogo, thanks for viewing and for the compliment. You were told wrong, here's what the Owner's Manual states: "At each maintenance interval, adjust the clutch cable play adjuster. The cable play should be 10 - 15mm (0.4 - 0.6 in) as measured at the clutch lever end before the clutch begins to disengage." I believe you are confusing clutch play with the throttle cable play, which is stated in the manual as "2.0 - 4.0mm (0.08 - 0.16 in)."
Track848 Hello and thanks for the response , I found the manual for the bike and it stated 2 to 3mm play in the clutch lever. I guess is different for different bikes...I wonder if can attach a photo of the page..I will try. Thanks again.
No, you cannot attach a photo here, but I created a thread over at the svrider forum a couple of years back when I created this video.... you can sign up as a member there and upload the pic if you want... www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303802
Hi I believe I have clutch slip.
In higher rpms and high speed, if I give full throttle it feels as if I have the clutch partially pulled in, bike revs up but doesnt pull as much as it should, hopefully this sorts it.
That's exactly what mine was doing... and this adjustment fixed it! Here's a link to part 1 where I discovered that I had the problem. Does yours sound like this? ua-cam.com/video/RlhBfveNdCg/v-deo.html
@@Track848 wow yes exactly that. I'm just waiting on a new clutch actuator as mine also had ball bearings missing, its arrive today so will let you know!
All good now, new actuator and cable an filled this vid an wd40'd the hell out if the cable and its like butter, no more bus to work!
Excellent! That's good to hear!
Track848 hi. This clutch adjustment is made on warm or cold engine???
Exelente
I noticed my clutch slipping on a spirited ride in the mountains yesterday, so I'll be doing this adjustment this week. My only question is - how do you know when the pushrod adjustment screw is no longer in contact with the pushrod when you're loosening it? Will I be able to feel it through the screwdriver, or what?
Blueshift You should be able to feel it through the screwdriver; just turn it out all of the way without removing it from the mechanism. A few turns should do it. I think the more important question, is: How do you know when the screw is in contact with the pushrod when you're putting it back together? And my answer to this is, use the feeling from the screwdriver, BUT primarily watch the mechanism. As soon as the mechanism plate with the spring and cable attached starts to move (I'm talking 100ths of an inch here), stop and back the screw out a 1/4 of a turn. If you go back and watch me do it in this video at around 1:39, you'll notice that I go back and forth a few times with the screwdriver to visually confirm that the plate was moving. Good luck, and get ready for the added/returned power to rear wheel! Come back and let us know how it goes.
Didn't have much of an issue with the pushrod adjustment part, just with setting the clutch slack afterwards. No matter how I adjusted the main clutch cable adjuster by the engine, the lever was completely loose (with its adjuster all the way in). In the end I just set the main adjuster to where it was originally and backed out the lever adjuster till the correct slack. Not sure if that's normal, but the transmission didn't grenade on a test ride and shifting felt smoother. Didn't get a chance to do the 7k+ WOT test, but I never had that problem originally - it would instead slip when getting back on the throttle immediately after a shift. Thanks for your help!
I did everything in the 2 videos, and the bike rode beautifully without any slipping even in high revs. About 30 mins later the slipping came back...Any ideas?
+ionicbreeze There's a link in the description of this video that might help you. I describe only 2 of 6 possible solutions that are mentioned in 'AndyAuger's Clutch Mantra,' from svrider.com; The other ones are:
3. Change the oil
4. Check the oil level
5. Clean, lubricate and adjust the external linkage, and
6. Look at the relative position of the "lever arms' at the foot lever and the transmission. They should be as close to parallel as possible.
Click on the link in the description and you can see more details. If none of these resolve your situation there could be a problem with the actual clutch (i.e. worn out plates, etc,), or something with the internal mechanism. Good luck!
+Track848 Thank you so much for your quick response, I will look up the mantra and try all of the above suggestions!
I have exactly the same problem with mine Sv 650 1999. I tried to do the same as you did, but its exactly the same.. Any tips?
Aleksander Dahl In this video I describe only 2 of 6 possible solutions that are mentioned in 'AndyAuger's Clutch Mantra,' from svrider.com; The other ones are:
3. Change the oil
4. Check the oil level
5. Clean, lubricate and adjust the external linkage, and
6. Look at the relative position of the "lever arms' at the foot lever and the transmission. They should be as close to parallel as possible.
Click on the link in the description to AndyAuger's 'Clutch Mantra.' It describes all of these in greater detail. If none of these resolve your situation there could be a problem with the actual clutch (i.e. worn out plates, etc,), or something with the internal mechanism. Good luck!
I just cant understand how to play with the main adjuster screw near the engine...more thread under the locknut means cable more tight? In this example the is virtually no thread under the bottem locknut as in the case of my bike. Even like this, i have to adjust the lever screw almost to the maximum to have the right slack
Hi there farmoboy; What make/model and year is your motorcycle? If it is more than a few years old have you ever renewed the clutch cable? If so and you do not believe this could be a contributing factor, check out the svrider forum link in the description, it was the inspiration for this video and might provide you with more options.
@@Track848 sv650 2005 with 50000km/ more so 33000miles. I think the previous owner never changed the cable. For now the clutch works perfectly and the slack is ideal for my hand. No false neutrals, easy to find neutral and power all over the rev range. Maybe next service i changr the cable just for peace of mind. Thanks
@@Track848i think that after 3 years and a new cable i found the problem. The little spring that is connected to the actuator arm is old and deformed. So it doesnt pull the arm strongly enough and therefore the cable doesnt get enough tension. I ordered a new spring and will test if it solved the problem because i have no thread left of the main adjustet and the gear adjuster is almost all out!
should I set my adjustable clutch lever to 1 before doing this adjustment?
I would set it to the position that you use during normal operation...
I hope I get an answer on here still despite an old video... Would this cure an SV that, once the engine is hot, will be difficult to near impossible to get out of 1st gear whilst at a standstill? I did try earlier to loosen the rod a little but I was worried it was 'too' loose. What are the issues with loosening it up too much? I have also tried draining oil and changing the oil, to no success. P.S. Great, clear video, thank you for posting.
Stevo mine had the same issue, had to “kick” the bike into second gear at times. Once I straightened out the rod that connects the peg to the clutch set up the bike shifted easily. Hope that helps
J Gonza Thanks, will let you know how that goes. Mine is missing the clutch return spring as well!
J Gonza I’ve no joy with this I’m afraid that it might be a deeper lying problem with the clutch plates or springs. I’ll try fitting a new clutch cable as mine is a bit worn but I fear it’ll have to go to a garage.
Stevo damn, hopefully the cable will fix it, but check handle also. Might be something up there also
very helpful video, I see in this video, you are entering the freeway at 77 in Independence, Ohio, are from that area?....I'm from Valley View. I have a 2001 SV650, if I have any issues would it be ok to call on you for advise?...Thanks, Rich
You can send me a pm...
Need help dont know if the position of that return mechanism should ve the same as yours mine feel apart put it back together and now clutch wont engage
Leonel Rodriguez Does the exploded view of the Clutch Release help you at all? It starts at around 0:19
***** i do not know if mine is properly adjusted after replacing sprocket and clutch cable my problem started while my svs rear wheel is in the air it will spin but once im on the ground it does not move at all i did have my clutch replaced a month ago so clutch and oil is good
Hey track, i have a 2004 sv650 and the bike keeps getting stuck in 1st gear and when i go in 1st from neutral the bike either stalls or starts rolling forward. Please help, thanks!
Did you check out the 'Clutch Mantra' link in the description? There might be some helpful advice there... good luck!
@Track848 Hi! This clutch adjustment is made on warm or cold engine???
This adjustment positions the release mechanism and the clutch lever for optimal functionality. Since both are outside of the engine it can be warm or cold, it won't make a difference. Good luck!
@@Track848 thanks
It always slips at 8
how do you adjust a clutch 1981 suzki 450 gs
Not sure about that George, I've never worked on an 81' 450... you might try visiting one of the Suzuki forums...
ok
i have 2004 sv1000s and my bike constanly jerked when im accelerating in 1 and 2,sometimes in 3 but only at 11500 rpm. i took it in to the local suzuki dealer and they said it was the clutch. so they had to put in a new clutch kit for me because the clutch's teeth was weared(previous owner did allot of burntouts etc). it got allot worse when the new kit was in,but when i pull in the clutch a little bit the jerking isnt so harsh. i heard it could be the clutch basket,but im not a motorcycle mechanic so im not so clued up,i just know a thing or two. is there any way that you could know whats wrong?
+speedx360SA Hey speed, there's a link in the description of this video that might help you. I describe only 2 of 6 possible solutions that are mentioned in 'AndyAuger's Clutch Mantra,' from svrider.com; The other ones are:
3. Change the oil
4. Check the oil level
5. Clean, lubricate and adjust the external linkage, and
6. Look at the relative position of the "lever arms' at the foot lever and the transmission. They should be as close to parallel as possible.
Click on the link in the description and you can see more details. If none of these resolve your situation there could be a problem with the actual clutch (i.e. worn out plates, etc,), or something with the internal mechanism. Good luck!
+Track848 thanks,ill check it ou,i already have new oil,a new clutch kit and plates and as far as i know the springs in the clutch basket is replaced but it still feels as if the clutch disengages when it gets torque on it
My tire keeps spinning in gear when clutch is pulled in
christian clark
Then you have way too much play on the clutch lever and you need to reduce it
Madeleine Gillett isn't it supposed to be one inch, if so mines even lower then that, but I bought new levers and now it just turns a little right when I put it in gear then stops turning
The play on the clutch before it reaches the friction zone should ideally be about 10mm or about 1/4 inch. After that, it's just minor adjustments
Mechanism on 0:51 on this video
Mine is pouring oil out of there please help me
Hi Juan, it's probably too hard to diagnose an oil leak over this platform. Leaked oil in this area of the bike could be from a number of sources, including: Inspection cover o-ring, alternator cover/case seal or the rubber grommet where the alternator wires come out of the cover. Other potential items to check: Clutch pushrod seal, shift shaft seal or the seal behind the front sprocket. Start by cleaning the area really well and if you cannot pinpoint one of these items as the problem, I recommend researching more over at one of the SV forums or taking the bike to a shop. Good luck!
@@Track848 Thank you very much in advance
@@Track848 I have a question if this rubber gasket that goes on the transmission rod is balinging at me, it is recommended that I only change the damaged parts or check something else
@@jbarojas7 If you narrowed the problem down to that seal alone, you can replace it only unless you suspect some of the other parts need replacing too. Is that the seal that's leaking?
How is your camera mounted and how did you get the windshield so clear? I have a gopro clone I want to mount on my bike in a similar position and I was worried about exactly how to mount it and whether the windshield would be too opaque but in your videos it's great!
In this video I am using a gopro suction cup, which is elevated a few inches up from the tank. When I use the suction cup I ALWAYs tether it to the bike using a piece of cotton string (prevents scratching the tank). I must've just washed the bike, didn't really notice how clear the windshield is until you mentioned it...
Can't find part 1 can you add a link please.
Fuck almost paid 220 for a new clutch
Track848 I just rode and damn it feels good!
Man this thing goes!
My bike slipping in first gear , its even worst
nathan sharkboi try this before you do anything else...
Thanks
You're welcome!