Suzuki SV650 Clutch & Water Pump Removal Process (How To Access & Remove Your SV Clutch Assembly)
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
- In today's video. I show you the simple process on how to remove your clutch and water pump cover to access and remove your clutch assembly on your Suzuki SV650. This process is pretty much the same on all Gen 1 & 2 (1999-2009) Suzuki SV650 models. In this video you I show you the step-by-step process on how to access your clutch assembly and I break down what tools you need to complete this job. I did forget to verbally mention in this video that you will need to drain your oil but I do have it written on screen. You will need to drain your oil and coolant during this process. So please be sure to have something to catch the old fluids and recycle them accordingly. Thank you for watching today's video. If you enjoyed it or learned something new. Please give this video a THUMBS UP. Also, please SUBSCRIBE to the channel! We are about to hit 2,000 subscribers!!! Thank you all for the continued support. More SV650 and other motorsport related content is on the way!
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This has been one of the most useful videos I've ever watched thank you so much
Thanks so much for the feedback. Glad this video helped you out 😃
love it!!! right on point! thank you man!
No problem at all! Thanks for watching. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. 😃
\\\very good. More useful videos for our beloved bike. Thanks pal.
No problem at all! Thank you for watching them! Please subscribe to the channel if you haven’t already. I’ve got a lot more SV content on the way 🙂
thank u
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
great video..! i have a strange situation with my sv650s 2000 model. its a starting issue, in which the starter motor tries to but doesn't have enough power to turn over the engine. i replaced the battery with a new yuasa, cleaned all the connections, changed the starter motor brushes, but haven't managed to fix the issue permanently. thing is: when it has run less than a day or two ago there is NO issue, only when it has been standing still for some time. battery is on charger. now get this: i did an engine flush, changed oil and filter, used good correct full synthetic quality oil, and this seemed to have fixed the problem for a few weeks untill recently again the issue returned. i've noticed that with the bike still turned OFF in neutral, it feels normal to push forwards. with the bike OFF in first gear however while pulling in the clutch, it moves very very heavy. then you push it for a bit and after a few meters you can feel it get a bit lighter: and then you can start it without a problem. so my guess is there is something causing the engine to become heavy to set in motion after sitting for about two days, like something glueing or sticking together at some part or parts. like old oil setting and sticking? can the clutch somehow be an issue from dirt clogging it up making it unable to completely disengage the engine? or is the issue in the gearbox like burnt residue oil in the bearings? i haven't opened the clutch yet and will do that this spring, but perhaps you're familiar with this issue and can help me understand what's causing it? i would like to sell the bike in spring, but would love to have this sorted 100% so i can get a fair honest deal for the new owner. thanks in advance.
That was probably the longest comment ever posted on this channel 😂
I’m sorry man. That sounds like a really odd issue and I honestly wouldn’t be able to diagnose that without the bike in front of me. But I’ll try to help the best I can. I doubt the clutch is your issue. Have you noticed this issue more recently in the winter time or has this been ongoing for some time?
@@PASSIONBUILT haha thanks for the reply, much appreciated. yes it was a long story lol..!
it's been onging for some time, but yes it gets more when the weather gets colder. forgot to mention, when i bought the bike i needed to add a litre (!!!) of oil... so i guess the previous owner had run it for quiete some time with too little oil. since at least i know a temporary fix, "loosening" up the bike by pushing it through first gear with the clutch engaged, i guess I'll just drive on. once started, there is NO further problem at all. bike runs great, smooth, good power, no strange vibration or sounds, shifts like a dream. then when spring comes, I think I'll do another engine flush, but then instead of idling the bike for 15 mins, I guess I'll slowly drive the bike through the gears at low speeds for a bit. flushing did really help after all, made a significant change for a while. thanks again for your time, much apreciated..!
I'll leave the comment, maybe it will help others, and your channel..! 😄👍
I know this was 2 years ago but I have your answer. It's your clutch cable. I had the same experience on my 08 sv650s and after a good bit of investigation the cause was the cable. The problem is that metal expands and contracts with heat and your cable gets longer and shorter with day/night cycles. If you ever run into this issue again I'd suggest you attempt to adjust your cable early in the morning when it's still cool outside and make sure the locking nut is well seated. Worked for me.
Had a question about possibly replacing my clut h on 01 sv650. It recently just started having issues accelerating pass 20. Complete lost of power even if I shift gears it still seems like it's in 1st gear
That doesn’t sound like a clutch issue.
What torque spec do i tighten the clutch spring bolts too? The bolts holding the clutch springs in please thanks
Check out this link to the SV forum. Full list of torque specs.
www.svrider.com/threads/a-list-of-common-torque-specs.104057/
www.svrider.com/threads/a-list-of-common-torque-specs.104057/
You’re a lifesaver slime
Slime? 😅 AM I GETTING OLD?! WHAT DOES THIS MEEEAAAAAAN?!
I have done this before you don't necessarily need to remove the oil just find a way to safely lay the bike on its side
Thanks for your feedback but that sounds like an easy way for someone to accidentally drop their bike or damage something when they could easily drain and reuse their oil. Just my opinion on that. I understand that you could do that. But nobody should lay a street bike down on it’s side to service it. Just sounds like an accident waiting to happen.
Hello i have a question for you, do i need to drain the oil just to take the water assembly pump cover off or is both of the covers connected together and they both have to come off
Yes. Drain the oil. You need to take off the large cover to remove the water pump.
Thanks
Doesn’t the push rod have another washer in front of the bearing?
You are right. There shall be a washer, but I think it's remained attached to the push plate. Pause at 4:26 and it's seems to be there down in it's groove.
how to do starter clutch video😊
If you need help replacing your starter assembly. Check out my buddy, Sergei @ Mad8V Cycles channel. He recently made a video on how to do that 😃👍🏼
My drain bolt is broken😢. I'm wondering if the cover and still come out if I would need to remove the entire cover
How did you break the drain bolt? Is it just rounded off? Or did you break the head of the bolt off? If the head snapped off. You should be able to remove the threaded portion remaining in the engine easily since there will be no tension on it. If you stripped the head of the bolt. Try tapping a 12 point socket onto it and removing it that way. Removing a cover just to drain your oil is going to make a mess and cause a headache. Plus you would need to lay your bike on it’s side just to get out the majority of the oil since it can’t drain properly.
@@PASSIONBUILT I just watched a video from Mad8v. I don't think mine is broken. I think when I did it I forgot to take the radiator cap off. Cause it was out a time and the engine ran but nothing came out, however after I saw one or two drips from the hole. So I think it's okay. When I'm ready to flush I'll know for sure
I apologize. I thought you were talking about your oil drain bolt. I didn't realize this was in regards to the coolant system. But yeah, the system is holding a vacuum on it until you release it by cracking open the radiator cap. Good luck.
@@PASSIONBUILT yea. I'm next service I'm planning to do a flush along with the usual. I had to replaced my front cylinder head due to a crack internally. It was then I tried to empty the coolant and saw nothing coming out
@@PASSIONBUILT only thing I'm paying attention too is a build up of gunk on top of the front cylinder on top of the crack case. 🤞it's just oil from a breather and not the cylinder head Gasket. Bike ran 2200 - 2300kms and had to top off 500ml of oil
Why did my clutch lever lose all resistance. It’s super loose now
Common problem on our bikes is the worm gear failing from lack of maintenance or losing the ball bearings. Check that first. It’s located under the sprocket cover.
I tried doing it myself and took off the wrong side smh I'm so screwed. Idk how to put all this back together. I messed up 😭
Can’t tell if you’re joking or not. 😅
@@PASSIONBUILT unfortunately I'm totally serious. I have no idea what I'm doing. I have all the parts to replace it but yeah. I took off the other side and was like huh idt that's right 😂😭
@@PASSIONBUILT gonna take me all day to figure this out lol
@@PASSIONBUILTokay now I'm stuck on trying to get the plates out. They're like really stuck in there. Any ideas? Also this is the most helpful video for this for sure. Idk why I didn't watch it in the first place.
@@PASSIONBUILTsorry bro not trying to blow you up. I figured out the problem. One of the plates looks totally melted and is coming out in a bunch of pieces.