Faulty Milwaukee M12 Impact Driver | Can I Fix It?
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- Опубліковано 11 сер 2023
- Someone gave me a broken M12 Milwaukee Impact Driver, he said that it it had a burning smell from the rear and it no longer worked.
Let's take it apart, see if we can find the problem and hopefully repair it!
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#electronicsrepair #electronics #repair #milwaukeepowertools
Milwaukee tool repair
Milwaukee Impact driver repair
Faulty Milwaukee Impact Driver
How to fix a Milwaukee Impact driver
DRV91670 - Навчання та стиль
The worse part about working on power tools is getting it back together again!
Oh yes, totally agree with that. The motor kept jamming for some reason when after I assembled it. I don't usually have that with Milwaukee tools but this one was a nightmare. That's why I said I've had it to bits loads of times, I just didn't put those assemble / disassembly bits of video into the final edit or it would have been an extremely long and boring video 😂😂😂
Or getting them back into their box (the box must close; the power cable must also go into the box; cutting off the power cable is not considered good practice here).
the Milwaukee dudes are all smiling. seeing an old tool resurrected, and still humming must make them so happy!
Yes, I've fixed a fair few other Milwaukee tools as I was expanding my own collection and it was cheaper to buy broken and repair them than buying new 👍
Great repair, well done! I would though say that the owner needs to take better care of his tools.
Thanks 👍and yes agree 😂😂
I buy all my own tools so I take care of them and they last years
@@BuyitFixitdo you fix these for customers? I got M12 gen 3 impact driver, need help 😢
Always great to fix something. Not only do you get to use the product, but it also makes you feel good to accomplish the repair... Thumbs Up!
Thanks Gary👍yes totally. I volunteer at our local repair cafe, as you get the satisfaction of repairing something that might have otherwise been discarded, and also helping local people in the community 👍.Thanks for commenting 🙂
you got a lot of patience if i looked at that drill and saw that burn mark it would have gone srrate in the bin i haven't got any patience at all .as always great video and a great channel thanks for the upload i enjoyed watching
Thanks John 👍Yes I don't like giving up on things unless I'm really out of ideas or parts are not economical or available. I actually spent about 3 or 4 hours on this tool, as it was a nightmare to reassemble and the motor kept being totally jammed for some reason (didn't put those parts in the video) so it was 1AM time I'd finished recording and after putting all the clips into the editing software from the different cameras (microscope and overhead) having to align them as the microscope doesn't record audio, and then edit out bits and fast forward sections etc it was about 3.30am time I got to bed, then finished off the video the following day, creating a thumbnail etc. It's a fair chunk of work so I do really appreciate all the positive comments from people such as yourself 👍🙂
Another good video.
Your guides are very well put together, done at a relaxed and easily to follow pace with a clear well lit view and a steady camera.
Others may have edited the failure after the assembly, but you did'nt, you were honest and showed warts an all, and thats reality, you are modest sir.
Very informative and entertaining, hope you get time to keep them coming!.
Any chance at some stage could you make a quick video, explaining how to identify a bad Mosfet with the meter, as they seem to be everywhere these days, I'm sure lots who watched this struggle like me with them.
Thank you kindly sir 🙂. Check the recent video I did on the hot rod induction tool (not mosfets) but they measure similar and I compare the new to the faulty with the meter so you can see the difference. Or check the Milwaukee impact driver video. If you get a consistent short between pins that's usually a good indication as they normally fail in a short circuit condition.
Another fantastic video, sir! You have quickly become my favorite UA-cam Channel. I greatly look forward to your future uploads and amazing content!
Thanks Paul 👍👍👍
I don’t know if I’ll ever have an opportunity to do the things I’m seeing you do, but I am learning so much.
Thanks 👍
I learned once from a video from EEVblog that when you have a severely burned part of a PCB (like in this case) the burned part can become conductive because it's turned into carbon.
If that's the case, you have to grind it down with a Dremel and hope it's not a multilayered board.
Yes, saw it a couple of times on PS5s and xbox boards 👍
Gonna have to start calling you the Milwaukee Whisperer , great job Mon Ami ...
Thanks Cajun👍I've got a Milwaukee fast charger to look at and also 10 batteries which I need to finish a video on. No good having loads of tools with not many batteries or chargers 😂😂😂
You screwed it to your desk didn't you? Go on fess up 🙂. Another awesome job though, well done pal
😂😂😂😂Thanks Marc👍
I had a Milwaukee hammer drill M18 something from my employer. While on a rough mission with it (massive stone-wall) it overheated a bit and after that, it failed a lot and it failed with the same blinking-pattern. Since guarantee was expired and my boss refused to get me a new one, I gave it a try. Inside I found a tiny little wire, which hold barely to the solder point. It broke completely, nearly from staring at it. I found out, this was for the overheating-sensor and that explained the blinking-code. I stripped a bit of that wire, resoldered it and the machine worked perfect again.
Great Job 👍I've also looked at a few M18 hammer drills (I did 2 videos on them) I can't remember seeing any temperature sensor on them so perhaps it might have been a different model to the models I looked at.
@@BuyitFixit I‘m unsure 'bout the sensor, since I had‘nt disassembled the machine further to follow that wire back, but that’s what I‘ve read on a thread. Never questioned that, since the machine worked perfect since.
Nice work, as usual!
Cheers Mate 👍
Amazing work, yeah you can fix everything 😍 we need more videos 😍
Thanks Bewar Tech 👍
Great fix and nice catch on the resistor.
Cheers 👍🙂
Love the Milwaukee repairs
Thanks Wayne 👍
Cracking repair, loved the series Mick, tnank you for your efforts. Looking forward to the next upload now 👏👍😊
Thanks 👍Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Love your videos man 👍 waiting for more.
Thanks Black Panther 👍
Great repair, thanks Mick 😀
Thanks Mike 👍
Nicely done as per normal. I have found a local repair cafe so will take the Kindle in when I can. If they can not fix it maybe it can be used for spares.
Thanks Chris 👍good luck with the kindle 🙂
That one was very interesting. 👍👍
Thanks Jacques 👍
I like the fact that you answer almost every comment you receive.
Do you realise how rare that is ??
Please keep it up.
Thanks, yes I do try to respond to all of the comments, even negative comments. The only ones I don't is if I don't understand what they are talking about, or are spam.
very clever fella and watching you fix that rgb laser was something else.
Thanks Philip 👍I've done a few repairs like that. The thermal camera for instance or the solar inverter (which I did two videos about as the company were being ***** 😂😂😂)
I am blown away with uour channel! I need to know why you do not do a "reverse diode test" on components surrounding mosfets to find shorts? I do enjoy northridgefix and 12voltkid.
Sometimes I do, but the most common failure mode of a mosfet or diode is short circuit. If it measures OK and you get a normal voltage drop it's not shorted 🙂
When he opened the cover, seeing the mess inside, the only thing I thought was "it's dead, it had a productive life, let it rest in peace" :D
"It's ALIVE!!!!" 😂😂😂😂
When I do these things, I'm called a grave robber.
I inform them the correct term is necromancer. 😊
Cool fix and fault finding :) Well used tool, but now it can continue working.
Thanks Mr JSV. Yes well used and definitely abused 😂😂😂
Fantastic video! thank you.
Thanks 👍
With a damaged Board I thought that was a write-off but good job in repairing it 👍
Thanks 👍
Small damage like that is no big deal.
If the item is worth it one can live with a charred board.
Had a fet do that on the power supply of a Flir a40m.
Otherwise that thermal camera was e-waste.
Thank you for the upload nice fix you have a lot of patience 😊
Thanks Cucumber Man 👍it was a bit of a nightmare this one as when putting it back together the motor was jamming. I must have had it apart about 8 times lol, but that would have made for boring viewing so I missed that bit out. It wasn't until 1am when I finished recording and 3.30am time I got to bed after the 1st rough edit lol. Spend the next morning finishing it off 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit lol oh bless you did well is all I can say 😁
Thanks mate 👍😂😂
Great video! More Milwaukee repairs please! :)
There's not a lot of Milwaukee stuff left that I haven't repaired 😂😂😂
I honestly don't know Pete, I've not had much to do with Makita, but you have to remember I'm purposely searching for broken Milwaukee items because I already had a few Milwaukee tools before doing videos, and thought I could save some money and perhaps help people with the same problems. If I had Makita tools originally then I bet you would see a lot of broken Makita stuff and no Milwaukee tools 😂😂😂
Beautiful work 😉
Thanks Lucasz👍
I have a bunch of Dewalt battery tools. Never had a failure, even have some batteries still good after 10+ years. But I will admit, never dipped them in cement!
Perhaps it might be an interesting experiment to try 😂😂😂😂😂👍
Thanx for the reply I have taken note, Thank you Very Much
No problem Ian 👍
26:56 Noooo not through the Famous bleu mat!!! Good video!!!
Thanks 👍"No blue mats were harmed in making this video" 😂😂😂😂
Nice repair.
Thank you Lycras 👍
Well done, job's a good 'un canny lad!
👍👍👍👍👍👍😃😃😃😃😃😃😃
Whey aye Nina, job's a good un 😂😂😂👍
Did you remove the carbon from under the mosfet? The smallest whiff of moisture and it conducts.. although I'm more used to high voltage so you may be fine at 10.8 but it's worth doing next time... oh and the direction controls are a pain in the ass, they never work smoothly unless all the parts and a couple of stars are exactly in alignment...
Thanks Jay, no I forgot about the carbon and while reviewing the video I thought the same. Someone else also commented similar. It very late time I actually got this repaired 1AM, and 3.30am before I got to bed as I started editing and finished it off the next day. Thanks for you comment 👍
Great video. I have always avoided brushless battery tools as I have no hot air / reflow tools at my disposal and my eyesight is not what it was !!!
Thanks. My eyesight isn't that good these days either. I have to use glasses now and usually a microscope 😂
Good work👍
Thanks Chotuu Sian 👍
Just discovered your channel and subbed. Great videos.
Thanks SuperBoobaloo👍 glad you like them 🙂
Should perhaps have removed the carbonised fibre from under the burnt copper track. Otherwise, good work.
Yes good call. I had been thinking the same when watching the video back on a large screen. I didn't think I was going to get this one done as it was 1am when I finished recording as was having a nightmare with the motor being jammed after reassembling the tool, and it was around 3.30am time I got to bed after the 1st rough edit 😂😂 so it was a late night.
Excellent video. When I saw all that rust/dust on it I was convinced it'd end up a non-runner. Very impressed! I'm wondering if you can read the firmware off this if you run a glitch attack on it
Thanks Jay👍Yes when I opened it I was thinking that too! Another viewer was asking about the firmware and I too suggested a glitch attack might be possible 👍Thanks for your thoughts and comments 🙂
Makes me want to open my identical bit driver and see what component failed when it spent a week outside in the snow and rain, its also gone swimming a few times but after pulling the battery and drying it out it comes back to life. It still works but its stuck on setting 4.
Thanks Joel 👍yeah snow rain and swimming are probably not the best environments for it 😂😂 it actually looks like this tool has had a similar experience 🙂
Great repair, and no magic smoke when you tryed it the first time, now all that's left is to unsolder all the wires and give the whole thing a good clean 😁
Thanks Morten👍, I did clean up parts as I went, but this thing is really used and abused😂😂
@@BuyitFixit yeah it would make a good candidate for a restoration video 😁
😂😂😂
Great repair but I'm surprised you didn't clean his tool for him.
I did to a certain extent, but I wasn't going to spend ages on the thing only for it to be used and abused again 😂😂😂
Great fix, thanks a million. Loved it so much i just looked at this video again. So, if a brushless power tool fails, should I always suspect the mosfet, or only suspect the mosfet if its a Milwaukee?
Yep, pretty much all brushless.
great job! I subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Does the battery cutoff come from the mosfets closing, or is that a relay by the trigger that shuts
I can't remember on this exact tool, I think the MCU just measures the voltage and won't drive the motor if it's below threshold. Other devices such as the 1st gen vacuum cleaners which use brushed motors have a small PCB with mosfets on, which only turn on to allow power to the motor if the voltage is above a certain level.
Question for Milwaukee specialists:
I have a Milwaukee M18 FMTIW2F12 that has an interesting bug. When I press the switch, the machine spins and diode number 3 (third gear) lights up for a long time. Only when the diode turns off is it possible to change the direction of rotation and start again. In addition, the maximum speed (diode number 3) cannot be changed. In order for it to work at all and not to wait for diode number 3 to go out, I remove and put back the battery. That means to change the wheels on a car that has 5 screws, I have to remove and put back the battery 10 times. Once I press the switch, I must not stop until the job is done, otherwise there will be a long pause or re-inserting and removing the battery.
Impact wrench M18 FMTIW2F12 with 881 Nm loosening torque and 745 Nm torque Extremely compact design with a length of only 152 mm. Which I found in the trash (500 $) that I want to fix...
Milwaukee specialists 😂😂😂 the most common fault I've found with tools like this are blown mosfets. I've had the same on drills, saws, etc. The other thing it could possibly be (had it on a grinder) was the motor magnet in the centre had slight damage and in turn damaged one of the hall effect sensors, but I think the tool would not run at all if this was the case. I'm kinda leaning towards failed mosfet. I'd also check for corrosion etc just in case.
@@BuyitFixit Eureka! I repaired my impact wrench today. The error was in the brown main switch. To make it even more fun, I found the machine and the spare part in the trash. Maybe my experience will help someone who has similar problems?
Greetings from Switzerland
@@Popajaja Nice 👍Well done 👏👏👏
They did use it to plaster a wall, great fix.
Thanks 👍I was thinking the same, or perhaps they used it to mix concrete 😂😂😂😂
Lovely
Thanks 👍
Another great fix, keep em' coming. Gonna have a go at this soldering game now I'm retired, Could you tell me which Leaded and unleaded solder & what flux would be best for starting. Cheeers. Ian
Amtech flux, never use unleaded solder too much heat required to melt, all micro solder repairer's use only unleaded, and buy a decent soldering station cheap ain't always better.
I thought that silver solder (unleaded) had a higher melting temperature than leaded. That's why Northridge fix uses it?
Been looking for a video exactly this machine ive got 4 of them were did you get the mosfets great work verry exspirung
I think Digikey, but I'd have to check to be sure.
That thing was seriously dirty. What i find useful when using IPA to clean things is to put the IPA into a little mist\spray bottle. I have a 14ml mini spray\mist bottle that used to have liquid catnip extract that works perfectly for an IPA mister.
Cheers!
Thanks for the tip 👍
kind of wonder if the resistor failed first & threw the balance on the mosfets out, then pop
Possibly but I've repaired plenty of other tools where only the mosfets have blown. They usually have a pull down on the gate, and this resistor came straight from the drive pin. I think the mosfet blew first and tried to send 12v back downs the gate pin which luckily popped the resistor and not the i/o pin on the chip. Thanks for your thoughts and commenting 👍
looks like the owner got his use out of it, maybe a wash in the dishwasher!
Yes, this one was definitely used and abused 😂😂
Hi Buy It Fix It, for dirty items like this, why not put in a ultrasonic cleaner? Thx
Yes great idea! I totally forgot about that. I repaired one a few videos back, but haven't used it much...
Interesting failure mode. With my very limited experience (and apologies for not really knowing the terminology), I would guess this failure *began* with that gate resistor breaking down somehow, trapping its mosfet in the linear region, making a great deal of heat and burning the PCB.
This is bad news for the complementary mosfet in the bridge - instead of its usual current path through the BLDC coil, it instead finds itself in a short circuit and fails due to excessive current spikes, which is a different (and less smokey) failure mode to the first mosfet.
This would easily explain why the driver IC was unharmed, but I'd be interested to hear the theories or explanations of anybody who knows what they're talking about (I don't!)
Thanks for your thoughts, and comment👍 I'm no expert, but I've had pretty much the same issue on quite a few tools (albeit without the burnt pcb). On one occasion I had a drill where 4 mosfets had failed! All of the short circuit, and a couple where unfortunately the voltage made it's way back down the gate into the MCU pre-driver and fried the output. I had this on the circular saw I looked at and also on a chop saw (I think the braking circuit on that failed, the mosfet shorted and now the mcu gets hot when trying to run the motor).
You need to clean and lubricate the buttons and switches in the drill, that's how you properly service power tools.
Thanks for that. It was 1am time I finished recording so it was a bit of a rush, also it's an impact driver not a drill, I'll hopefully remember this for the next time 👍
@@BuyitFixit Drill impact driver, whatever.
I thank You for the CC. @ 25:46 *"Applause"* it says, I second. 8|}
😂😂😂I didn't add any CC they are automatically generated. I guess YT liked this one 👍😂
That thing was properly beaten up ☺
Yes it certainly was 🤣🤣🤣
Hi, thanks for great video, how can i check each mosfet to know if it's good or Bad?
If there are no obvious signs like burnt, then put the meter in diode check mode, and check between the gate pin and the other pins for a short circuit. Usually when a mosfet fails it will totally short internally.
@@BuyitFixit thanks
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Which grinding pen.u have used .
Can we have link
I think it's called a MaAnt D1, just search that or usb engraving pen. Hope that helps 👍
do you ever do repairs for customers? I have an 18v Milwaukie 1/2 impact gun (think of the thing you use to take tires off) that seems to have similar issues. I got a new one but the newer version is not the same as the original-id love to have my old one back. It might be cost prohibitive to ship though, Im in the US
I don't have "customers" as such, this is just a hobby (well apart from the volunteer work I do at the local repair cafe once a month). Yeah the postage would probably be more than the tools is worth. I've got a 1/2" impact gun myself 😉 and I use it to take wheels off, I'd like to see you remove tyres with it 😂😂😂😂 but seriously, I suspect it will be similar inside to the SDS drill I repaired in another video. They have bigger mosfets than the little m12 impact driver. I show how to test them in the video, so perhaps you could attempt it youself, or if you think it's a bit beyond your skills, I'm not sure if there might be "repair cafe's" in the US? I know they have makerspace's dotted around which might be able to help too...
@@BuyitFixit fair enough, just thought id ask. (and yes..."wheels" 🙄😂). I'll check out your other vid-I might at least try to fix it myself. I miss that gun, the newer one is nowhere near as good. I did talk to the official Milwaukie repair back when it died- but they wanted almost as much to fix it as a new one cost. Thats when i just replaced it
@@colestowing8695 Yeah it sucks when the price of parts is nearly the same as a new tool. It was the same case with the Milwaukee sander I repaired. Milwaukee wanted £89 for a motor assembly and the bare tool was only £99! I got a new motor which was the same size etc from Aliexpress for £10 😂😂
What flux do you use? That looks quite good!
It was just some cheap one from Ebay, it's quite stiff to squeeze out the syringe. A lot of people recommend amtech flux.
Probably shorted out through water ingress.👍
More like concrete ingress 😂😂😂😂
A well used device there
Yep, used and abused 😂😂😂
11:02 grind them ... don't try to desolder
Thanks for the tip!
Another one saved. Well done. Seems a lousy design making the driver chip integrated to the brain. The amount Milwaukee charge for their stuff you'd think they could afford to make it more likely to be repairable even if it cost them a dollar or two more.
Cheers Mike, it's all about bottom line at the end of the day, just like the parts from Milwaukee will nearly be the price of a replacement tool...
I have a few milwaukee tools that are faulty and seem to be the main chip, do you think it would actually be possible to read the data from a working chip and write it onto a new one? Or would this only be able to be done by the manufacturer
I think it might be possible. It's probably read protected but it might be possible to bypass that by using a glitch attack. Someone else did similar with a different chip.
@@BuyitFixit I am interested in trying to see if its possible, do you think any generic QFP48 programmer would work on the DRV91670 chip?
No, I'm trying to remember what core the chip had. I know the chip is made by TI but there's very little info out on the internet about it. I just saw your post on reddit 🙂 the only crumbs of info I found was on the TI forum, try search on there DRV9*
www.ti.com/lit/an/slda026/slda026.pdf was about the only info I could find.
e2e.ti.com/support/motor-drivers-group/motor-drivers/f/motor-drivers-forum/725728/drv91680-programmer/2694889?tisearch=e2e-sitesearch&keymatch=drv9%25252A#2694889 might also be of interest
would this be the same issue as mine, i have the same but flashing single battery light, batteries are fine, the drill doesnt run
I think that sounds like it thinks the battery is flat. I had a problem like that with an m18 work light where it wouldn't switch on because it thought the battery was flat. It turned out to be a faulty resistor that goes to the main microcontroller to measure the battery voltage. It might be something similar on your tool.
@@BuyitFixit thank you, ill try and check it out
Watch out with carbonised substrate as it becomes conductive!
Yes, I've seen that on other things such as PS5 and Xboxes. I didn't think at the time, but did when watching the video back. I probably should have ground it back a touch and added some solder mask. Thanks for commenting 👍
Abim bir dahaki sefere mosvet üzerindeki ölçümleri yakınlaştırıp ölçermisin
Fantastic work, yet again. Although that thing needs a serious dip in a vat of warm diesel, followed by a good soak in oil and grease to kill of the crustyness. I still don't like that membrane gear selector switch they put on those tools, just use a good old ca-chunk-a-chunk switch, it's a work tool, not a game controller.
Thanks General 👍I did clean some of the rust from the motor with a wire brush and some fine sandpaper. I also added a thin smear of oil. Hopefully that makes it last a while longer 🙂
Where buy spart part?
I think it was Digikey where I got them from
Hi I have car flip down to dvd player with two blowing carpaster don’t no valu on them would you like try fix it I pay for the post and cost of repairing it
the black art
Indeed 👍
it all ways ends in smoke with me lol@@BuyitFixit
I've been there a few times myself 😂😂😂😂
I wonder That big motherboard full of chip in a DRILL...😮😮😮😮
@9:00 looks like it wasn't correctly mounted to begin with
Possibly, or it got that hot that the solder melted and it shifted position..
I would've expected multiple mosfets blown before killing cpu pre driver ?
Only takes one to feed 18v through the gate pin...
I dont suppose you take on multi meters, I've fried mine.
I don't usually take on repairs, what make is it and what's it doing?
@@BuyitFixit it's an extech ex355 multi meter , put new batteries in it, the batteries got really hot , continunuity didn't work lots of strange readings functions not working 🤷♂️ turns
Just did a search, and theres a few pictures of the insides of a ex350 on eevblog. Not sure if yours is the same inside, doesn't look a lot inside. Only 1 chip. Some diodes which I'd probably check first.
@@BuyitFixit I won't lie I opened it up looked at it, seen just what you described and then closed it back up again didn't have a clue. Just looked at that eevblog you mentioned the inside is exactly the same
If it’s cheap, buy another one.
ultrasonic cleaner would make that tool look like new
Someone else mentioned that, the only issue would be that the circuit board for the battery level is held in place with plastic pegs that have been melted to hold it. Thanks for suggesting it though 👍
Hi i never understood why you always put everything back together before you even know if it fixed ?
In this particular case, due to the nature of the tool it's best to run it with the shell on, although I must admit that I wouldn't have added all of the screws before trying it.
I could have possibly put a few less screws in, but you can only really test this by putting it back together. The casing holds the bearings for the motor and it won't rotate otherwise.
Confidence, sometimes the fault is so obvious your 99.9% sure it's fixed, I do it with phones tablets computers all the time experience is everything you get to know faults.
Now I know why they call it a dog's breakfast, because like a dog with a bone, that looks to have been buried.
Yes 😂😂😂
You didn´t measure for any shorts...?
I checked all of the mosfets for shorts...
for the love of all that is holy clean your solder iron tip
Great tip! 😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit dude when you went to solder the SMD's milimeter leads with that blunt thing i honestly thought i was watching a howtobasic video
@@CrudeBuster I've got a smaller tip but it doesn't seem to dissipate a lot of heat so I prefer to use the larger one, a bit flux and it's not an issue 🙂
@@BuyitFixitI know the problem with small tips and heat-dissipating pads but at least a scrub now and then on brass wool so it doesn't look like a mustard-covered burnt copper bratwurst, for real, won't hurt
@@CrudeBuster 😂😂😂 I'll try and remember. I might try investing in some JBC tips, as I've heard they are a lot better than the tips that came with this iron.
I felt the need to comment. I don’t want to pan your work as you generally do good work however you did 2 things wrong with this repair. First is when you cleaned it you did not remove all the carbon scoring - why is this important? Because carbon is resistive and may well have been the cause of the no work situation after reassembly, but the final mistake you made was not testing it before reassembling. I personally would have checked the resistance across the gate to the other pads just to be sure it was correct not just because of the possibility of dead new parts but also because of the carbon scoring.
Hey, thanks for commenting. I didn't think about the carbon until I was watching the video back myself. I know it's a thing as I've seen it before on PS5 and xbox series x repairs where mosfets have also failed. I could have checked the gates with the meter but I just assumed that the new parts would be ok, although I have been bitten by this before especially when I've ordered parts from dubious Chinese websites 😂 This thing was a nightmare to test as I assembled it about 6 times and the motor was jammed solid for some reason I think the case wasn't sitting right but I thought it would be boring watching me assemble and disassemble it multiple times. Thanks again for taking the time to comment, and hopefully I'll remember next time I encounter a similar repair 👍
Miljunkee
😂😂😂😂Most of the stuff actually seems ok, there are a few tools which I would absolutely agree with that.
No conformal coating. No parts to order to repair. Milwaukee owned by TTi, Hong Kong/China company. All throwaway tools
Fair point, usually most I've looked at have conformal coating on them. This one did seem to be awfully abused.
@@BuyitFixit it’s consistent with them. Take a look at Makita they protect their electronics. What I see of Milwaukee is they stick them right under/near moisture/dirt ingress